Another tip is to eplace the cheaper front sprocket every 10,000 miles. This helps to extend chain and rear sprocket life considerably, as it is the hooking of a worn front sprocket that destroys chains very quickly 👍
The Shop Manual is like the motorcycling version of "explain it to me like I'm five". Always easy to understand why certain things needs to be done and properly explained so easy to follow.
@@Angry-Lynx Meh, not really! Spec on a sealed chain is 1% elongation. It's double that for unsealed chains, so 1.5x length is on the verge of having some pins wear through!
@@shaundisch2020 if you have an open mind and no ego, you will always have something to learn. Thats just how this world is. If you think you are a know-it-all, you wont learn anything and before long you'll be left behind. Respect and more force to you sir @forrysc
You read my mind! Had today planned for chain maintenance and was going to look into tips for checking for wear, couldn't have asked for better timing 😅 quality and presentstion top-notch, as usual!
Years ago I had a worn chain replaced by my shop. They insisted the sprockets were fine and admittedly, they did look good. My new high-end chain was completely worn out within MONTHS. I ran through all the adjustment on my bike lightning fast. Always do chain and sprockets together. It ends up actually saving you money, not costing more.
We really need to avoid the term "tension" when talking about machine chains. The only tension applied is that created by the engine. We adjust slack, not tension. Talking about tension gives inexperienced folks the impression that their chain should be snug in some way, which can be disastrous. More than a few riders have taken all the slack out when the swingarm is in a position that allows huge tension to develop during a ride. That does ugly things to an engine.
That's a good point. I'm not usually a stickler for terminology as long as everyone knows what we're talking about, but that's one that can pretty badly mislead people who are new to it. I'm gonna be careful about that one.
i love that every Shop Manual video i watch i can just 'Thumb up' it before watching. the content is always correct and its presented quick and tidy. textbook YT videos.
I also like how some manufacturers have squared ends on the pins. That way you know if it's not parallel with the link, that pin is binding or worn out.
I have a 2022 Ducati 8800 Mi on it and the chain is only showing slight signs of wear. Of course I have kept it extremely clean I clean it about every 300 mi and lubricate. I have a whole new setup ready to go on the bike but I don't think I'm going to need it for quite a while.
32k miles on the OEM chain set on a 2004 600RR using only Lucas 90w gear oil. The chain adjustment sticker stills shows "NEW" or in the green meaning, it hasn't stretched. FortNine already told you that chain wax is not the best option. It certainly isn't the cheapest either.
@@steveman1982 not like rubberbands but they do slowly stretch. That's why you (usually 😉) need to tighten them occasionally and also why a lot of bikes have an indicator showing how far you can tighten them before it should be replaced.
@@thefaboo they don't stretch, they wear. The plates don't get longer. What actually happens is that the holes in the inner plates gets bigger and the pins get smaller, which allows the chain to elongate. Sealed chains keep the pins lubricated better, reducing wear, which is why they last longer.
Much love from here in India. This is a kinda sorta big bike for us here in Asia. Any content that’s applicable to us is much appreciated! You guys are awesome. Subbed before I even saw a video. Thanks for what you do for the community and Im super stoked for more motorcycle content!
I don't even have a chain anymore ( shaft drive). But I like watching because... Ari. Clear, concise, and informative. Some of the best videos on the Internet. And maybe I can help a friend check their chain now.
Let me give you an advice on how to keep your chain run longer for cheap. Because if you use specialized lube and specialized cleaner, those are costly, the cost can easily add up to costing as much as new quality chain and sprockets set over just one chain lifetime. So the secret is - you clean it with diesel fuel(don't clean with kerosene, despite many recommend it) and you lube the chain with gear oil 80/85w-90. Buy a small plastic oil can for oiling sewing machines, and you apply as tiny dropes as you can make directly onto the o-rings, it may seem tedious, but it only takes like 3-5 minutes. Then you give your chain a good wipe with a cloth or paper towel, and you're good to go. Another part of the secret is you need to keep your chain well adjusted, and don't overtighten it! Riding with poorly adjusted chain and especially if it's overtightened, will kill it way faster than not oiling it. Or if your a wasteful person that has money, and your bike doesn't sit in the garrage for 10 years, you can just neglect oiling your chain and cleaning it often, just clean it with diesel fuel evey couple of thousand of miles or when becomes very dirty. Quality chain form brands Ari listed in the video, will last you at least 15k miles even if you neglect them, just don't forget to keep the chain properly adjusted.
Also you want to generally refrain from repairing broken or old chains if possible. A chain is only as strong as the weakest link. Something like that. Buying new is just easier. I've seen new chains snap too. Don't be shocked. So personally, I'd like to lower my risks as much as possible.
DID all the way, just replaced mine again on my H2 after 26.000 km. The tention on the rear by pulling the chain away from the rearsprocket could also be an indication that you need to tighten up for the chain slack so you might want to check that first.
Tips for chain life: Buy the most heavy duty chain you can get. I got a 530 DID Xring. It's at 23 thousand miles and it's going strong, better than the engine. The factory chain was done in 13k miles. When you're putting it on, goop as much chain lube as you can on the link. Fill the hole with goop, cover the pin with as much goop as you can. When you're pushing the pin in, block the hole with your finger to keep the goop in. All that lube that you seal in with the orings and the plate is what keeps your chain lubed and keeps it from stretching. You cannot have too much.
Replacing the cheaper front sprocket every 10,000 miles helps to extend chain and rear sprocket life considerably, as it is the hooking of a worn front sprocket that destroys chains very quickly 👍
Just what the doctor ordered. I have never changed the chain in my 2005 Speedmaster in 3 years that I have owned it and I have been wondering if it is time for that. I am also very lazy with my chain mainteance. I never clean it, only lubricate it few times per riding season. 😅 I probably should pony up for the belt drive conversion kit that exists for this bike...
as some who enjoys riding as much as fixing/upgrading the parts on my bike, i can't tell you how excited i would be for this particular maintenance. 🤤🤤🤤🤤
Great video. To the point and informative. I always look forward to these, and any Revzilla content for that matter. Just bought a new summer riding jacket from you guys. Keep up the great work.
Ah yes, straight to eBay for the cheapest chain money can buy! I'm joking of course, but just a thought - how quickly to the very cheap chain sets wear? What if they are lubricated with an on-bike system like Scottoiler or Tutoro? Cheers for all you guys do!
Used a cheap $40 525 chain from niche. Got about 3k miles before the orings started vanishing. Not terrible for a $40 chain but for $20 more I could put on a Primary Drive 520 from rocky and I've already gotten double the distance the Niche gave and still going.
I put a budget chain on my Versys 650 and it was junk at 5,000 miles. Stock chain lasted about 17,000 as I recall. The difference in quality goes deep. Metal alloys, hardening techniques, clearances between pins and bushings, quality of the grease, quality of the o-rings, etc.
Another neat tip I was hoping to see mentioned is: when you're cleaning the chain, check the slack at a few different points along the chain. If it varies, you're approaching end of life. I've no idea why the wear varies along the length, but it does sometimes.
At one point my bike chain is too loose and on it's exact opposite side it too tight , to the extent it make kit kit noise , So do i need to change it ? I ride max at 60-70kmph and my bike is a 150cc yamaha r15
Years back my friend parked his bike for the winter and the battery leaked on the chain. It snapped in two shortly after. Don't cheap out. Thanks and thinking of you on the 4th after seeing some photos on your post.
With a modern sealed chain the lube or no lube discussion is interesting. I always lube because it gives me a chance to spend some time cleaning it off my bike. It's therapeutic.
Always change your chain & sprockets at the same time. I run my sprockets untill theybegin to show signs of hooking. By then the chain is worn out too.
In addition to the "get what you pay for" argument make sure the chain is actually RATED for your bike. You can spend $150 on a chain made for a 450 dirt bike that won't handle a Z900, and you can spend $150 on a chain made for a Z900 that's bigger and heavier than a KX450 needs... Have sold chains to customers who made the "just as good" argument to me that ended up on the side of the road with a snapped chain and damaged plastics, and that's the lucky outcome.
I guess I did a good job cause I got 27,000 miles out of my last chain and it wasn't even that bad when I swapped it! I could have gotten away with atleast a few more thousand at least, I had 4 places "kinking" however they easily returned with a finger push.
two cheins and still same sprocket, when chain start singing it's time to new, 33000km on ich, three chain and got new sprocket, 530 its big and heavy chain
I am not convinced a chain needs to be lubricated if it is a sealed type chain. After seeing an experiment a KLR 650 owner did where I only cleaned his chain with WD40 and didn’t lubricate it and had it last something like 36,000 miles, I decided to do the same with my new KLR. So far I have over 5,000 miles and have only had to adjust the chain slightly one time. The chain doesn’t attract dirt like a lubricated chain and thus doesn’t form the grinding compound that, I believe, is what wears out the chain and sprockets faster. So far, I am very happy running my chain clean and dry and will continue to do so. Another advantage is a nice clean rear wheel. I do lubricated chain the chain lightly to prevent surface rust during the off season, but then clean it off with WD40 in the spring.
From my understanding, the seals on the chain need some sort of external lubricant to help keep them in good shape. You also want a small amount of lubricant on the surface of the rollers and teeth of the sprockets as there is a small amount of friction as they make contact. And you want something to inhibit rust. Having said all that, you are correct about it possibly turning into a grinding paste (but rust will also increase wear). None of the lube applied to a sealed chain will increase the life of the internals of the chain. A lot of solvents and cleaners will penetrate past the seals and break down the internal grease, which can shorten the life of the chain though. WD40 is 1 of those products. It's a really well marketed product but not actually very good at anything
@@mad082sss Yes, those are all of the old wives tales, but I will take real data any day. I saw the report of the gentleman, I think it was Wattman who makes the KLR ThermBob, but I am not sure and can’t find the report now, who ran the WD40 experiment with fantastic results. Basically no maintenance and no messy chain and rear end of bike and still go more mileage from his chain and sprockets than do most folks who lather lube on their chains. I don’t buy that the seals on the chain need external lube. They get all they need from internal lube. Do you lube the external seals on the rest of your bike? Do you lube the external side of the wheel bearing seals? The engine and transmission external seals? Some solvents may get past an o-ring chain, but that is not likely unless you use a lot of it or spray it on with force. WD40 is not one of those solvents as the Wattman report aptly demonstrated. And many others have submerged o-rings in WD40 for long periods of time without issue. I think Project Farm is one who did that. WD40 is marketed pretty accurately. The name itself tells you what the function is. Hard to get more transparent than that. WD40 is primarily used to displace water and prevent rust from said water. It does that very well. I use it on my chain after riding in the rain and the chain doesn’t rust. It also can be used as a penetrating oil and works about as good as most others do, which is to say not very good as no penetrating oil makes much of a difference as Project Farm and others have demonstrated. A fire wrench is what works on well rusted fasteners.
@@LTVoyager i was wrong about the wd40 penetrating past seals. I went back and looked at some videos I'd watched on I'd. I had it mixed up with something else. But it is bad for some types of rubber (you can pop a rubber balloon by spraying WD40 on it), but most seals that are designed to deal with oil or grease are fine with it.
what about if you rotate your wheel and your chain is very tight in on position and lose in other? Is it done and you need to replace it? I had one and service shop told me that it need to be change.
Great point. It's possible and not unusual for chains to wear unevenly, so checking the entire length of the chain is the right approach. Any tight spots are a warning that your chain is starting to bind, and once it does it will wear very quickly.
Not much, actually. Aerosol lubes can help keep the o-rings pliable and provide some lubrication to the rollers (which stop rolling as soon as they contact the sprocket teeth). It's mostly about corrosion resistance.
Another sign your chain is dying, is if you notice you need to adjust your chain way more often, the closer the chain to its end of life, the faster it's stretching.
Thanks for the great tips yet again Ari. What do you think of the new 'maintenance free' chains? I think BMW came out with one and some other companies will no doubt follow suit..
They're rubbish, as explained in this article I did a while back: www.revzilla.com/common-tread/bmws-maintenance-free-m-endurance-chain-put-to-the-test
my chain is slightly jumping up and down when on central stand and in gear spinning. it might be for change? idk can also feel the bike not moving smooth when at 1st gear moving slowly at idle
Probably noy when your bike is on your stand the rear suspension is at its longest and the chain will be more slack than at any other possition this will be even more the case on bikes with long travel suspension (like a offroad bike). A slacker chain will jump a bit as the enginepulses pulls the chain thaught and the luls between the pulses slackens the chain. What id do in your caseturn the rear wheel by hand and look for kinks in the chain and frozen links. Id also check the chain tension
The chain will jump and hope when the bike is on a stand and while riding very slowly. At those low revs there's isn't consistent load on the engine so the power pulses kind of jerk the chain rather than pulling smoothly like it does at higher revs.
Go rivet unless you think you'll need to remove your chain for some reason. For example, in roadracing we use clip links (that get safety wired) since you often change chain length when changing gearing (to maintain wheelbase/swingarm angle).
The bristles on those special chain brushes are WAY too stiff ... they puncture and damage the O-Rings on chains and greatly decrease the chain's life as they let the lube out and water in ... ask me how I know ... I now never use anything other than an old toothbrush on an O-Ring chain.
Everything you need to know when replacing your motorcycle’s chain and sprockets rvz.la/4bESqCU
Chain care product guide: rvz.la/4f3j4bi
Ari is the real G
Another tip is to eplace the cheaper front sprocket every 10,000 miles. This helps to extend chain and rear sprocket life considerably, as it is the hooking of a worn front sprocket that destroys chains very quickly 👍
I will say, when CZcams suggests a motorcycle video from Ari...you know it's going to be quality.
Great to know that's our reputation!
The Shop Manual is like the motorcycling version of "explain it to me like I'm five". Always easy to understand why certain things needs to be done and properly explained so easy to follow.
My worn out chain, laid out next to a new chain with same number of links, old chain was stretched ~1.5 links longer than the new one.
That's too much dude
Normal and too be expected
@@Angry-Lynx Meh, not really! Spec on a sealed chain is 1% elongation. It's double that for unsealed chains, so 1.5x length is on the verge of having some pins wear through!
Time to cut it! 😂
I have a shaft drive and it's been years since I've lubed up a chain. But it's just such a pleasure to watch Ari explain stuff...
Came here to say something similar
4 minute video in 2024? pinch me i'm dreaming. keep the good content coming!
No fluff here, man. We produce the vids we want to see - accurate and to the point!
Massive thanks for showing the bad ones and not just describing them!!
Yup! I hold onto thrashed parts for exactly that reason.
@@AriH211lol, but that's great for education purposes, thanks!
I’ve been a motorcyclist for 40 years. I still learn things from these videos. Thanks Ari.
How could this video be better than 40 years of experience????
@@shaundisch202040 years experience doesn't mean 40 years of doing things correctly. I am always open to the fact I can learn more.
@@shaundisch2020 if you have an open mind and no ego, you will always have something to learn. Thats just how this world is. If you think you are a know-it-all, you wont learn anything and before long you'll be left behind.
Respect and more force to you sir @forrysc
Shoutout to all chain havers that actually take care of their chains, you guys have a place in motorcycle heaven.
Every 500 km I clean and lube.
I’ve lubed my chain once in 17,000 miles. About 2 years old. Triumph T100 full throttle riding. Original sprockets still look good at 25,000 miles.
You read my mind! Had today planned for chain maintenance and was going to look into tips for checking for wear, couldn't have asked for better timing 😅 quality and presentstion top-notch, as usual!
Years ago I had a worn chain replaced by my shop. They insisted the sprockets were fine and admittedly, they did look good. My new high-end chain was completely worn out within MONTHS. I ran through all the adjustment on my bike lightning fast. Always do chain and sprockets together. It ends up actually saving you money, not costing more.
Thanks, I never miss a TSM episode. Keep 'em coming.
We really need to avoid the term "tension" when talking about machine chains. The only tension applied is that created by the engine. We adjust slack, not tension. Talking about tension gives inexperienced folks the impression that their chain should be snug in some way, which can be disastrous. More than a few riders have taken all the slack out when the swingarm is in a position that allows huge tension to develop during a ride. That does ugly things to an engine.
Yes. Tension applies to drive belts. Slack applies to chains.
That's a good point. I'm not usually a stickler for terminology as long as everyone knows what we're talking about, but that's one that can pretty badly mislead people who are new to it. I'm gonna be careful about that one.
Clear and simple video, excellent presentation! I wish all CZcamsrs did the same. Outstanding work, bravo!
i love that every Shop Manual video i watch i can just 'Thumb up' it before watching. the content is always correct and its presented quick and tidy. textbook YT videos.
I also like how some manufacturers have squared ends on the pins. That way you know if it's not parallel with the link, that pin is binding or worn out.
Can we get an air filter episode next? They're sort of invisible and frequently get ignored 😅
That's a topic I have on the roster.
I have a 2022 Ducati 8800 Mi on it and the chain is only showing slight signs of wear. Of course I have kept it extremely clean I clean it about every 300 mi and lubricate. I have a whole new setup ready to go on the bike but I don't think I'm going to need it for quite a while.
32k miles on the OEM chain set on a 2004 600RR using only Lucas 90w gear oil. The chain adjustment sticker stills shows "NEW" or in the green meaning, it hasn't stretched. FortNine already told you that chain wax is not the best option. It certainly isn't the cheapest either.
I use Ipone.
Chains do not stretch though. If they would, you'd rev it once, and need a new chain.
@@steveman1982 not like rubberbands but they do slowly stretch. That's why you (usually 😉) need to tighten them occasionally and also why a lot of bikes have an indicator showing how far you can tighten them before it should be replaced.
@@thefaboo they don't stretch, they wear. The plates don't get longer. What actually happens is that the holes in the inner plates gets bigger and the pins get smaller, which allows the chain to elongate. Sealed chains keep the pins lubricated better, reducing wear, which is why they last longer.
@@thefaboowhat you believe is stretching is just wear on the pins and bushings.
I didn't have someone I grew up with to teach this to me. Thanks a lot!
Much love from here in India. This is a kinda sorta big bike for us here in Asia. Any content that’s applicable to us is much appreciated! You guys are awesome. Subbed before I even saw a video. Thanks for what you do for the community and Im super stoked for more motorcycle content!
made several purchases at reveille. LOVE the shop Manuel vids. Thank you!!!!
Thanks for the support!
I don't even have a chain anymore ( shaft drive). But I like watching because... Ari. Clear, concise, and informative. Some of the best videos on the Internet. And maybe I can help a friend check their chain now.
Best moto maintenance videos on CZcams!
Every episode of Shop Manual is gold. Revzilla deserves my business.
Let me give you an advice on how to keep your chain run longer for cheap. Because if you use specialized lube and specialized cleaner, those are costly, the cost can easily add up to costing as much as new quality chain and sprockets set over just one chain lifetime. So the secret is - you clean it with diesel fuel(don't clean with kerosene, despite many recommend it) and you lube the chain with gear oil 80/85w-90. Buy a small plastic oil can for oiling sewing machines, and you apply as tiny dropes as you can make directly onto the o-rings, it may seem tedious, but it only takes like 3-5 minutes. Then you give your chain a good wipe with a cloth or paper towel, and you're good to go. Another part of the secret is you need to keep your chain well adjusted, and don't overtighten it! Riding with poorly adjusted chain and especially if it's overtightened, will kill it way faster than not oiling it.
Or if your a wasteful person that has money, and your bike doesn't sit in the garrage for 10 years, you can just neglect oiling your chain and cleaning it often, just clean it with diesel fuel evey couple of thousand of miles or when becomes very dirty. Quality chain form brands Ari listed in the video, will last you at least 15k miles even if you neglect them, just don't forget to keep the chain properly adjusted.
Thanks Ari. The Shop manual series are not to be missed at all.
These are the chains that bind.
Chain of command.
Good chain of events.
See how I linked those puns.
You've got a great chain gang there.
Also you want to generally refrain from repairing broken or old chains if possible. A chain is only as strong as the weakest link. Something like that. Buying new is just easier. I've seen new chains snap too. Don't be shocked. So personally, I'd like to lower my risks as much as possible.
That was exactly the advice I need right now
Thank you Ari
Thank you for the reminder to clean my chain.. :') Great content as always from you Ari. :D
DID all the way, just replaced mine again on my H2 after 26.000 km. The tention on the rear by pulling the chain away from the rearsprocket could also be an indication that you need to tighten up for the chain slack so you might want to check that first.
Great video, although I get 2-3 chains per sprocket set. I only use D.I.D chains and JT Steel Sprockets.
Excellent 🎊just learned few things (or stuff i forgot 😅)
Anyone knows if there are any real benefits to aftermarket chains and sprockets in comparison to OEM sets?
Thanks for that, will need to check my chain and sprocket now 😁
Thanks, very useful information. 👍
Awesome as usual Ari. Also thank you for making this seem a lot less daunting than I previously thought
It's not daunting at all! It's super easy and an important inspection.
@@AriH211 well my Scram 411 is scheduled in my driveway for tomorrow
Very nice and informative video! Here in Germany a worn out chain is a reason for failes state inspecion
Tips for chain life:
Buy the most heavy duty chain you can get. I got a 530 DID Xring. It's at 23 thousand miles and it's going strong, better than the engine. The factory chain was done in 13k miles.
When you're putting it on, goop as much chain lube as you can on the link. Fill the hole with goop, cover the pin with as much goop as you can. When you're pushing the pin in, block the hole with your finger to keep the goop in. All that lube that you seal in with the orings and the plate is what keeps your chain lubed and keeps it from stretching. You cannot have too much.
Replacing the cheaper front sprocket every 10,000 miles helps to extend chain and rear sprocket life considerably, as it is the hooking of a worn front sprocket that destroys chains very quickly 👍
Just what the doctor ordered. I have never changed the chain in my 2005 Speedmaster in 3 years that I have owned it and I have been wondering if it is time for that. I am also very lazy with my chain mainteance. I never clean it, only lubricate it few times per riding season. 😅 I probably should pony up for the belt drive conversion kit that exists for this bike...
Quality video.. full of hard facts and visualisation.. thumbs up!
as some who enjoys riding as much as fixing/upgrading the parts on my bike, i can't tell you how excited i would be for this particular maintenance. 🤤🤤🤤🤤
Great video. To the point and informative. I always look forward to these, and any Revzilla content for that matter. Just bought a new summer riding jacket from you guys. Keep up the great work.
Glad you like the vids, and thanks for the support!
I still remember watching this topic on mc garage
Ah yes, straight to eBay for the cheapest chain money can buy!
I'm joking of course, but just a thought - how quickly to the very cheap chain sets wear? What if they are lubricated with an on-bike system like Scottoiler or Tutoro?
Cheers for all you guys do!
Used a cheap $40 525 chain from niche. Got about 3k miles before the orings started vanishing. Not terrible for a $40 chain but for $20 more I could put on a Primary Drive 520 from rocky and I've already gotten double the distance the Niche gave and still going.
i bought a 25$ plain chain and it lasted about 3k miles? i should have probably changed it sooner tho
I put a budget chain on my Versys 650 and it was junk at 5,000 miles. Stock chain lasted about 17,000 as I recall.
The difference in quality goes deep. Metal alloys, hardening techniques, clearances between pins and bushings, quality of the grease, quality of the o-rings, etc.
How about a video about axles? Great work guys n gals!
Another great video!
Do you think a video on checking valve clearances would be out of scope for SM videos?
czcams.com/video/sScXWEoSqyM/video.htmlsi=DKZ6MvknMznl2C2h
Another neat tip I was hoping to see mentioned is: when you're cleaning the chain, check the slack at a few different points along the chain. If it varies, you're approaching end of life. I've no idea why the wear varies along the length, but it does sometimes.
At one point my bike chain is too loose and on it's exact opposite side it too tight , to the extent it make kit kit noise , So do i need to change it ?
I ride max at 60-70kmph and my bike is a 150cc yamaha r15
Thank you for another one, sir! You and Zack… legends. :)
Years back my friend parked his bike for the winter and the battery leaked on the chain.
It snapped in two shortly after.
Don't cheap out.
Thanks and thinking of you on the 4th after seeing some photos on your post.
With a modern sealed chain the lube or no lube discussion is interesting. I always lube because it gives me a chance to spend some time cleaning it off my bike. It's therapeutic.
50 000 miles with DID chain and sprockets on my Suzuki GSX 1250 FA
Always change your chain & sprockets at the same time.
I run my sprockets untill theybegin to show signs of hooking. By then the chain is worn out too.
In addition to the "get what you pay for" argument make sure the chain is actually RATED for your bike.
You can spend $150 on a chain made for a 450 dirt bike that won't handle a Z900, and you can spend $150 on a chain made for a Z900 that's bigger and heavier than a KX450 needs...
Have sold chains to customers who made the "just as good" argument to me that ended up on the side of the road with a snapped chain and damaged plastics, and that's the lucky outcome.
Really good info. I'm wondering what are the consequences of not replacing the chain when its due time comes. More noise? Will it snap easier?
I guess I did a good job cause I got 27,000 miles out of my last chain and it wasn't even that bad when I swapped it! I could have gotten away with atleast a few more thousand at least, I had 4 places "kinking" however they easily returned with a finger push.
Love 'The Shop Manual' series. Going to the garage now to check mine! Thanks 👍
thanks
Good advice, thanks. I use chain wax before every ride (almost) but didn't know how to check for wear.
Now ya do!
Thanks Ari.
Dude! You are ripped! and i'm even str8
Simple and effective ❤❤❤
Ari…Legend
i just learned he is married. welp
Fresh Shop Manual video
Thank you !!
You're the man
two cheins and still same sprocket, when chain start singing it's time to new, 33000km on ich, three chain and got new sprocket, 530 its big and heavy chain
but how often should I lubricate and clean my chain?
500 miles or immediately after riding in the rain/dirt, especially in areas that salt their roads.
Great timing to hear this.
I am not convinced a chain needs to be lubricated if it is a sealed type chain. After seeing an experiment a KLR 650 owner did where I only cleaned his chain with WD40 and didn’t lubricate it and had it last something like 36,000 miles, I decided to do the same with my new KLR. So far I have over 5,000 miles and have only had to adjust the chain slightly one time. The chain doesn’t attract dirt like a lubricated chain and thus doesn’t form the grinding compound that, I believe, is what wears out the chain and sprockets faster. So far, I am very happy running my chain clean and dry and will continue to do so. Another advantage is a nice clean rear wheel. I do lubricated chain the chain lightly to prevent surface rust during the off season, but then clean it off with WD40 in the spring.
From my understanding, the seals on the chain need some sort of external lubricant to help keep them in good shape. You also want a small amount of lubricant on the surface of the rollers and teeth of the sprockets as there is a small amount of friction as they make contact. And you want something to inhibit rust.
Having said all that, you are correct about it possibly turning into a grinding paste (but rust will also increase wear). None of the lube applied to a sealed chain will increase the life of the internals of the chain. A lot of solvents and cleaners will penetrate past the seals and break down the internal grease, which can shorten the life of the chain though. WD40 is 1 of those products. It's a really well marketed product but not actually very good at anything
@@mad082sss Yes, those are all of the old wives tales, but I will take real data any day. I saw the report of the gentleman, I think it was Wattman who makes the KLR ThermBob, but I am not sure and can’t find the report now, who ran the WD40 experiment with fantastic results. Basically no maintenance and no messy chain and rear end of bike and still go more mileage from his chain and sprockets than do most folks who lather lube on their chains.
I don’t buy that the seals on the chain need external lube. They get all they need from internal lube. Do you lube the external seals on the rest of your bike? Do you lube the external side of the wheel bearing seals? The engine and transmission external seals?
Some solvents may get past an o-ring chain, but that is not likely unless you use a lot of it or spray it on with force. WD40 is not one of those solvents as the Wattman report aptly demonstrated. And many others have submerged o-rings in WD40 for long periods of time without issue. I think Project Farm is one who did that.
WD40 is marketed pretty accurately. The name itself tells you what the function is. Hard to get more transparent than that. WD40 is primarily used to displace water and prevent rust from said water. It does that very well. I use it on my chain after riding in the rain and the chain doesn’t rust. It also can be used as a penetrating oil and works about as good as most others do, which is to say not very good as no penetrating oil makes much of a difference as Project Farm and others have demonstrated. A fire wrench is what works on well rusted fasteners.
@@LTVoyager i was wrong about the wd40 penetrating past seals. I went back and looked at some videos I'd watched on I'd. I had it mixed up with something else. But it is bad for some types of rubber (you can pop a rubber balloon by spraying WD40 on it), but most seals that are designed to deal with oil or grease are fine with it.
@@mad082sss Most balloons are made from latex, not rubber.
what about if you rotate your wheel and your chain is very tight in on position and lose in other? Is it done and you need to replace it? I had one and service shop told me that it need to be change.
Great point. It's possible and not unusual for chains to wear unevenly, so checking the entire length of the chain is the right approach. Any tight spots are a warning that your chain is starting to bind, and once it does it will wear very quickly.
Should I put in a heavier chain for better quality or the OEM one with lighter and poor quality?
Please suggest
Thanks for the great info. What exactly are you lubricating on a sealed chain?
Contact between chain and sprocket, help prevent rust
The seals
Not much, actually. Aerosol lubes can help keep the o-rings pliable and provide some lubrication to the rollers (which stop rolling as soon as they contact the sprocket teeth). It's mostly about corrosion resistance.
@@AriH211 Excellent, thank you.
Can you please tell me the name of the honda motorcycle that is featured in this video ?
Thank you:)
Another sign your chain is dying, is if you notice you need to adjust your chain way more often, the closer the chain to its end of life, the faster it's stretching.
those arms are guns indeed
More scooter repair and maintenance tips.
Nice vid
Thanks for the great tips yet again Ari. What do you think of the new 'maintenance free' chains? I think BMW came out with one and some other companies will no doubt follow suit..
They're rubbish, as explained in this article I did a while back: www.revzilla.com/common-tread/bmws-maintenance-free-m-endurance-chain-put-to-the-test
@@AriH211 Good to know! Thanks again Ari.
my chain is slightly jumping up and down when on central stand and in gear spinning. it might be for change? idk
can also feel the bike not moving smooth when at 1st gear moving slowly at idle
Probably noy when your bike is on your stand the rear suspension is at its longest and the chain will be more slack than at any other possition this will be even more the case on bikes with long travel suspension (like a offroad bike). A slacker chain will jump a bit as the enginepulses pulls the chain thaught and the luls between the pulses slackens the chain. What id do in your caseturn the rear wheel by hand and look for kinks in the chain and frozen links. Id also check the chain tension
The chain will jump and hope when the bike is on a stand and while riding very slowly. At those low revs there's isn't consistent load on the engine so the power pulses kind of jerk the chain rather than pulling smoothly like it does at higher revs.
I tried a $35 o-ring chain and sprockets set and it lasted through one oil change.
The best thing to do is just replace your chain if it gets dirty. Costs a bloody fortune but everyone comments that my chain looks like new.
What about belts?
If you run out of adjuster, a new chain you must muster.
If it ain't skipping, I ain't fixing.
Lol.
I ride a shaft drive so the only real maintenance I need is changing the gear oil lol.
Smash like!
Ok, now moving to the other can of worms, rivet or clip when replacing the chain on bigger bikes with power in the triple digits? 🤔
@@michaelmurdock4607100% agree. A good rivet tool is €/$~100 or so, and will last a lifetime if you take care of it.
Rivet, always Rivet!!! Trust me! (Although you have zero reasons to listen to me)
Go rivet unless you think you'll need to remove your chain for some reason. For example, in roadracing we use clip links (that get safety wired) since you often change chain length when changing gearing (to maintain wheelbase/swingarm angle).
I can’t justify doing the sprockets each time, I tend to go every other. It really jumps the cost up to have the sprockets replaced at my shop.
The bristles on those special chain brushes are WAY too stiff ... they puncture and damage the O-Rings on chains and greatly decrease the chain's life as they let the lube out and water in ... ask me how I know ... I now never use anything other than an old toothbrush on an O-Ring chain.
i replace them when my rear sprocket stars slipping.
Changing the chain and sprockets, the closest to a new bike.
Hey now, I’ve got Niche chains on 3 bikes for thousands of miles without issue….
No vortex
If anyone has ever seen a chain snap while riding....just thank god you werent behind them when it did. Dont take the risk, replace that shite
Always helpful. Ari is great. 👍🤪🏳️🌈
Hey Ari, do a video on your body building techniques