Is It Worth Getting the Overton Designation? - Bust Half Dollars
Vložit
- čas přidán 23. 07. 2024
- 1810: currently NFS
1812 O-107: oldpueblocoin.com/product/553...
1813 O-105a: oldpueblocoin.com/product/553...
1814 O-104a: oldpueblocoin.com/product/553...
Thanks for watching.
Please comment, share, like and subscribe.
See some of our inventory:
Website Inventory: www.oldpueblocoin.com/all-num...
eBay store: www.ebay.com/str/opcsales
Join this channel to get access to perks:
czcams.com/users/thecoingeekjoin
Follow us:
www.mycollect.com/TheCoinGeek
/ thecoingeek
www.mycollect.com/pages/OldPu...
/ oldpueblocoin
tucsoncoinshow.com
/ tucsoncoinshow
Ben The Coin Geek
Old Pueblo Coin
Think of all the hands this coin has passed.
All the situations
Lots of history
Your videos have convinced me to simply buy graded coins and avoid using the grading companies myself.
These were the days everyone used an outhouse.
Out of all the US coins I’m in love with these especially the older ones 1834-1837 if they’re in really good condition, her hair and pupils pop out the coin just stunning
Love it when you include bust coins on the channel. Been collecting them for over 20years, especially the halves. Getting the Overton designation is really worth it for the R4 or R5 varieties because of the premiums they could bring when selling. If its R1 or R2, not much reason to pay the extra unless you just want it on the slab. Grades all look reasonable except its not clear what's wrong with the 1810. Clearly that was straight graded before so what ever the issue its not glaringly obvious (like on the 1812)
Thanks for the insider info
Jewelry makers were great at tooling silver, gold & copper and coins were part of the program,
Very cool. Love the old stuff.
With the British burning Washington DC, we’re fortunate that Philadelphia was still able to produce coins!
The mint used their does until they broke up, before the advent of steam press dies in 1836, lots of flatly struck coins, especially halves.
4 months into metal detecting I found a 1812 Classic Head large cent right before dark in my backyard under a lilac tree. Before I found that coin I wasn't into detecting much, but after that I was hooked. Two and a half years into detecting I've found 1853 Braided Hair large cent, a beautiful 1891 P Indian Head and a 1910 P Wheatie and 50 plus old coins. All these coins were mainly found in my backyard.
Nice nice I found the 1852 cent and 1853 half dollar love a good coin find
So much to learn thru the JRCS on busthalfs. Remember the FIFTY CENTS OR HALF A DOLLAR on the edge. Initial J on the ribbon. Nice glad to see so many early dates. Thanks !
Yep
SECOND IS THE NEW *FIRST!*
I'll try anything.
Do you give thumbs up to your own comments?
Donald that's just equity math
I think they should have the Overton number. Some are worth a lot more.
Hey Ben
The tooling was above the 'United' on the reverse
I think the first coin tooled is obverse rim left side looks worked to smooth a rim ding.
I really love the look of this series of coins, but just the early years. The later busts are not as appealing to me. Why are these series of coins graded in Overton? I am not sure what that grading means.
SECOND
So Mr. Ben. Very interesting points brought up. After a coin has survived so many years and passed through so many sets of hands it seems, to me, it gets increasingly hard to distinguish what characteristics are just a result of it's travels/life and what may be deemed manipulation and cleanings etc. To my way of reasoning, of coarse they have been 'cleaned', and lovingly wiped, possibly polished, dipped, 'thumbed' etc. etc.. As nice as those coins are, the fact that certain things that I see and that stand out to me as being probably not a result of 'normal' circulation, or the result of the coins initial striking get overlooked by even 'professional graders', and the fact that the coin can be 'straight graded' at all often seem remarkable. So would we just categorize that as graders discretion? Or is there some formula or checklist of what is considered an allowable degree of futzing around with a coins originality that's permissable then? I think this might be an interesting topic to explore further (for us laypersons) as I regularly find myself scratching my head about how many coins (especially 80 yrs.+ old) are assessed/graded. Thanks.
1817/4.
Man.
What I wouldn't give to know just how many were struck before the die fell apart.
Sometimes see coins listed with Overton numbers, and Vams. But no explanation of the Vam or Overton number.
I like the 1813 best 😍
Wait a minute,PCGS straight grades a coin,then gives it a details grade.🙄
Hi Ben. Is the 1812 coin the Overture? *>>-->* 🦉
Yes and in 1814 they took a little trip.
What causes blue toning specifically?
Environmental conditions and differing alloy mixes.
War of 1812 lasted thruseveral of your amazing coins
Do you normally crackout & send the coins to the same grading company?
So at one time the coin rooked itself while in the PCGS holder? Oh my bad, there’s just no consistency
I see the "tooling" area that the host highlights. What I dont get is how the 'tooler' thinks it "enhances" a design element. Was this a common practice used decades ago?
My O My, how subjective can grading get, which one of these is not like the others?
I’ll be honest… when a coin has been tooled or cleaned I appreciate the person who did it for me to help clean up the garbage on my type coins😂😂😂…. Details grades are great for an excellent type coin set on a budget😁👍… p.s. … I would never clean a coin myself cause the history would be destroyed and I feel Im the care giver of every coin I own so future generations can carry that forward.😎
No! If you are interested in these historic coins buy the book and a $5 magnifier. It is no hard, and if you are no willing to put in a little work to examine they then you should stick to stabbed Morgan's. Many overton varities are named eye varities. Learn to cherry pick bargins...They are out there. If this is too tough for you, you are not a coin collector.