FAST 6:1 Drop Loop Crevasse Rescue
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
- In this video you will find a 6:1 Drop Loop system utilizing the Micro Traxion and Petzl Mini pulley. This type of rescue should be built upon after you understand all the components of the standard crevasse rescue using the ATC Guide and 2 Prusik's to ascend the rope.
Also, take note that this video does not replace training from a professional guide. This video assumes that you have already went through the proper courses and are just seeking a refresher. We do not take responsibility for any injury that may result from this inherently dangerous activity.
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Hi Mike, love your setups and explanations, clear, precise considered. Good to see you have made more videos. Thank you.
Glad you found the videos helpful
@@MikeReid Hi Mike, since I wrote this I found your website and started reviewing your courses. I am on the other side of the planet (Australia) in lockdown for COVID-19. But i am interested in coming to Iceland for ice-climbing and hot-springs. I spent a couple of weeks in Norway in 2018. I will send my questions to your business site. Derek Xiàng yīgè lǎobǎn yīyàng
very nice. thumbs up
Thanks
Munter with the break strand over the ‘biner’s gate? I know it should tighten the locking ring if braking lefty. But, why put more wear on the rope?
Also no redirect off the Prussik?
Hi John , thanks for the observation and good point, it´s important to take details into the account, for safety reason and for environmental purpose as well. You can of course also have the brake strand on the opposite site, another good suggestion would be to keep the brake strand straight up so it will not form a “ pig “ tail in the loop, having the rope come 180 degrees into the munter minimize the curling up part and will also be kinder to the rope. All the best team Glacier Adventure
What is the point of putting a mule on the victim?
So the point of muling the victim is to address the issue of the victim sliding further into the crevasse while unattended at the bottom (while you ascend and make the haul system). This assumes its a tight crevasse as opposed to the one shown in the video.
Great value demo-Thanks! What gloves are those?
Hi Walter - this is just a very cheap gas station gloves - will give you great sensation for the rope but quite durable.
Great video. Love the system you're using. I've never ascended with a micro traxion so I was wondering. Would it be advisable to throw a catastrophe knot or some sort of back up in while you ascend?
Hey hey, glad you liked the video. No backup is needed. This device is rated to be used as a PCD (progress capture device) at the focal point of an anchor without a backup so it can also be used on yourself in place of a waist prusik. One thing that is important to remember is to avoid shock loading the device so take your time when ascending so don’t bounce on the device as you ascend.
How is written your greetings in Icelandic? Sounds very funny 👍
It's Shang a lowban - not necessary a typical Icelandic greetings but more of an inside joke - means like a boss in Mandarin
@@glacieradventure4144 😁👍 I thought it come from the Silver song - Wham bam Shang-a-lang. Thx for your respond.
Btw. love your tutorials, great content and very good vibes. 👍
I’m a major beginner so I’m only asking for learning purposes and not trying to critique. After you set the microtraxion you removed the Munter hitch and used a foot prussik. Would it be better to set up a backup such as a clove hitch below the microtraxion in case of a failure or is that over-redundant?
Yeah critique away. Yeah, so I appreciate your thinking but we do not need to set a clove hitch under the Micro Traxion as it is trusted as PCD (progress capture device) / ratchet without needing a backup. This is demonstrated in the technical notes by Petzl for the Micro Traxion (file:///Users/globalmikereid/Downloads/technical-notice-MICROTRAXION-1.pdf). If you are using a soft hitch like a prussic, then yes those would need to be backed up because if managed improperly, they could slide down the rope.
Bad Ass