eBay Pre 1980s TOY Repair Challenge PART 5
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- čas přidán 8. 09. 2024
- Hi, here is the 5th Part of the new eBay repair challenge between me and Steve from TronicsFix (UK vs USA). Steve (USA) is a professional fixer of modern games consoles and I (UK) like to tinker and try and fix anything. Steve won the last challenge in 2018. This time we are attempting to repair broken toys that were first introduced before 1980, so we both have the same chance of winning :-)
We can buy and sell up to 5 items and they have to be bought and sold on eBay. We will start with £150 ($200) but we can let the profits roll onto the next item. The winner will be the one with the most percentage profit made over the 5 items. NOT the most amount of money made but the biggest percentage increase. I think in this 2nd challenge series 'Team UK' stands a very good chance of success (finger crossed).
Many thanks, Vince.
Here's the link for Steve's 1st video: • eBay Repair Challenge ...
Here's the link for Steve's 2nd video: • eBay Repair Challenge ...
Here is a link to Steve's 3rd video: • eBay Repair Challenge ...
Here is a link to Steve's 4th video: • eBay Repair Challenge ...
Here is a link to Steve's channel (TronicsFix):
/ @tronicsfix
Here is the link to my 1st video in this challenge: • eBay Pre 1980s TOY Rep...
Here is the link to my 2nd video: • eBay Pre 1980s TOY Rep...
Here is the link to my 3rd video: • eBay Pre 1980s TOY Rep...
Here is the link to my 4th video: • eBay Pre 1980s TOY Rep...
Remember that this is just for entertainment and I am not an expert in these repairs. The processes in the video may not be the best way, the correct way or the safest way to fix these things.
I do love fault finding and trying to fix broken things so I hope that comes across in this 'Trying to FIX' series.
Great fix! Glad we both did trains. Yours was quite an old one by the looks of it. I really wonder if they had different battery contacts back when that train was made. Either way you got it working well.
TronicsFix yes Vince did do a amazing job repairing this 🚊. Sometimes he fails, but he learns from his failures. Remember you’re never to old to learn!
Cheers Steve, I think this was from the 1950s but I couldn't find out any information about it on Google. The batteries might have been different with the contacts inline rather than staggered. The forum I read did say it took the lantern type P996 batteries so I really don't know what was going on with the contacts in this control box. Hopefully a viewer will know :-) Looking forward to your 5th video. Thanks for doing the contest with me and although we won't make much money the enjoyment has to be factored in. Good luck with the final figures :-)
I'm actually interested in doing something like this in the future.
@@Mymatevince I saw some batteries like that in the wilco local to me
Yes the batteries were inline instead of staggered my brother used them a lot.
You will probably find that the little bottle with the dropper is "smoke fluid" An oily mix with some solvent that produces low density vapor/smoke when the locomotive is running. Trying to simulate the exhaust of real steam locos. It was quite a popular feature with toy trains in the 50s and 60s. Generally out of fashion these days.
In fact, a friend of mine got some vintage trains (Lionel) and when they were up and running with the smoke coming out the reaction of his brothers' kids was, "Yeooh! Pollution!."
Fog machine liquid? Glycol and glycerine? Or these days, vape fluid would probably work.
My grandmother bought my older sister, who was just 4 years old at the time, a huge Godzilla toy that had smoke stream from its nostrils when you poured a solution into it.
Nowadays smoke systems are very poopular in RC tanks.
Maybe use some vape juice?
No thats the lubricating oil that came with triang trains.
The bottle for the syncrosmoke unit had a bottle with a rubber eyedropper type stopper.
OK a couple of points here:
Firstly, the type of batteries required for this old train set are no longer manufactured. The 996 type lantern batteries that you were using are electrically the same as the old ones, but the modern version has one terminal mounted on the corner and the other in the middle - this was to prevent it being inserted the wrong way round which was all too easy to do with the older style.
The second point is regarding the speed controller. Like most others of that era, it's basically a wirewound variable resistor, and when you turn the control, it adjust the amount of current, rather than voltage, that is applied to the track. (This is why your multimeter showed little or no change in voltage when you were trying the controller - you would need to be measuring current with the load (tracks) connected in series with the controller and meter in order to really see what is going on with this type of control) This is a very simple and reliable method of controlling small DC motors but because low speeds result in low current, the train will tend to stall at low speeds and especially if it's pulling a full load of coaches, as the motor torque is drastically reduced at low currents.
This is why modern controllers (and by "modern" I mean from the mid '70s onwards) use pulse width modulation instead, where the full power is applied to the tracks regardless of the setting, and the speed is adjusted by changing the ratio of on:off timing of the pulses, resulting in the full torque being available regardless of the speed, resulting in far better low speed performance. Also, because a PWM controller delivers higher current pulses all the time, it has much greater tolerance of dirty tracks than the old variable resistor type system. It is, however, a bit more complicated, though not massively so. Nice to see that you got this set working again though - another great job!
Brilliant info and very well explained. I understand it now. Thanks for sharing :-)
Vince in the 1950's and 40's there were lantern batteries that had the poles on the opposite sides rather than at an angle... they went to the angle type because you can't put the batteries in wrong like they used to...
oh BTW the old ones had a threaded terminal on top as well... but in this case they left the screwed on nut on top when they put it in the battery box
Ohh, that makes sense regards the polarity. Thanks for letting me know. I have been Googling 'old Ever Ready' batteries but I couldn't find any pictures of them. Thanks for passing on the knowledge :-)
@@Mymatevince I Feel a bit guilty now. It took me 3 minutes not only to find the batteries, but to find a supplier on eBay. 6 euros each :)
Thanks, have you got a link?
@@TheTkiller9999 do you remember the big square ones that had the push on connector , like with the small pp9??
Great stuff! I would be tempted to use a fine sand paper on the wheels of the train, and on the track! Same goes for the contacts that connect with the battery and the 2 banana type connectors. Then wipe over them with something like deoxit! You might find better connectivity then! But it came out well!
Thank you Chris, is that Deoxit about £30 per aerosol can. Is that the stuff you use or a tube? I want to make sure I am ordering the right stuff.
@@Mymatevince It's insanely priced in the large cans =/ You can get a small tube for like £7, and if you use it sparingly it can to a long way! The other way that can help with the tracks is brasso (metal polish). Go over the tracks with that first, then clean it off with IPA.
@@GadgetUK164 Good man Chris, I will order up a tube from Amazon :-) I might get some Brasso while I am there. I used to use that on my bicycle when I was a child to get the chrome bits nice and shiny :-)
Yeah, it's good stuff! I think it has some kind of acid or something as the cleaning agent. It works really well on cleaning up conductive tracks like that.
@@GadgetUK164 They are in my Amazon basket so I will have them next time I put an order in. BTW I emailed you earlier today:-)
Loved this nostalgic toy repair Vince.
Great job takes me back to the 1960s when I had trainsets. Thanks .
I had a layout in my loft that would have put Pete Waterman to shame.
I had a special carriage that cleaned the rails which I would send around the entire layout once a week and it was brilliant.
You also need to clean the engine wheels as they are the pick-ups to the motor.
I had a mini vice to clamp the engine upside down and a plastic fork with a couple of scalextric pick-up braids wired up to provide power and spin the wheels whilst holding an IPA soaked cotton bud on the wheels.
Another great video Vince, I wouldn't worry too much about the speed of the train, or leaving carriages behind, it still works better than most of the train network in this country lol!
The battery cover is original and never changed. It's the battery design that has.
I also remember when the battery terminals were straight on top. I think they changed them because it was too easy to install them wrong. I can't find it online when this happened but my old brain remembers them.
www.freeimages.co.uk/galleries/transtech/objects/slides/oldbattery1141.htm
Might be possible to make contact by twisting the springs on the battery...
We used to have this set when we were kids. It was our cousins and we gave it back when he got married and had his own family. The engine and track are exactly the same. The only difference is that ours had a mains power supply and controller in one unit.
And I distinctly remember that little bottle for the oil.
Magic!
Talk about nostalgia! I had this train set back in the early 1950s when I was 7 or 8 and we lived in the caravan without electricity. I can't remember the batteries but I recall that black box with the scalloped sides. As to saying it would have been expensive, knowing my dad I'd say probably not. In fact it was probably second-hand, as we never got new toys in those days. Anyway, good to see it again after all these years. If I'd had the chance I would have loved to buy it.
My Mate, resistance needs load. Think like you have two lakes connected by a small river. That river is the resistance. If you add water to one lake, it slowly equalizes in the second. But if that second lake is feeding a stream or waterfall or something, it never equalizes because of the resistance of the small river. The tiny load of a multimeter just isn't enough. Voltage is the right setting...but you need to measure voltage drop during operation; not static voltage at idle. One lead on the input (battery), the other lead on the output (going to track). Also super-useful for diagnostics because a bad connection can read 1 ohm with only the load of a multimeter, but can basically turn into an open circuit with just a fraction of a watt flowing through it.
Releasable cable ties... always wonderful to know about something new for me.
always get a charge out how you get so excited when something works or you really like it its so you keep it up
I used to work in automotive parts and work on many electrical systems now. I would bet you a pint that the batteries made when this train was had their post terminals in a row. I saw at least 10 or more post configurations change on batteries in the span of 2 years at one point. Manufacturers change them up often to make "proprietary" type connections now so you have to buy their stuff to make it work. This train was built in the golden age of more standardized parts where you could buy a battery from any manufacturer and it would work as long as your voltage was right.
Yeah you would win the pint :-) After looking at the comments on here and the links given to the original instructions, it looks like the batteries are 2x 6V P996 with a spring for the negative, but on the positive it is a sprung tab rather than a spring and they are inline. The sprung tab is quite long it would probably reach over for the devices that took diagonal contacts :-)
I love old Tri-ang sets, their older ones were third rail like the London Underground with the current rail in the middle. Tri-ang I think it was actually sold a rail grinder thingy that when it whizzed round it polished the tracks as it went but most ppl I have seen with these sets use either steel wool, baking foil or have little holy stones they rub up and down the railhead.
The engine is in BR black carrying her BR number, when she was with the LMS, she would have been often seen steaming through your local station at Watford Junction being in 1939 based at Camden depot and would have run through semi-fast expresses from Euston then she moved all over the country up to Scotland and back down to Liverpool until she was withdrawn in 1962 after what seems to be freight duty at Carlisle Kingsmoor but was immediately preserved and still going today :)
Nice fix. Use a blue or green scrub pad on track to clean. Spray contact cleaner on coil in speed controller and move controller full sweep to clean. Should fix problem. I had trains as a kid. 62 now.
Clean track ends very well to avoid dead areas.
Greet to see a train set done Vince,and good to see you having a go with it and getting it done.nice one 👍
Hi, the coil thingamajig is called a voltage variac, it should be very smooth with carbon pads on the wipers giving a fairly variable stable Vout. yours sounds very scratchy and almost broken jittery output.
A wild Vince face appears. Someone call the lovelies and the bubblies.
Yah! I know. Nice beard he's growing there :)
And this how I want to start my morning.
In an office I clean up they have a Polaroid Cool Cam that folds in and out. I agree, I saw it said made in the U.K. and had to do a triple check
You can buy track rubbers designed to clean model train tracks I use to have one when I was a kid
Rewatching this as this last month I bit the bullet after accidentally winning a GWR 060 Pannier and a BR class 08 for a few pounds off ebay taking very little to get these very old Triang loco's running, a few pounds more got me several Triang coaches and picked up a ton of track, platforms for very little money, then I snagged a £20 NOS Lima class 33 never used and got enough for quite an involved layout.
Model railways is like riding a bike, you just never forget how to do it all, the only thing to get my little loco's running is I need to solder a little brass tab onto the wire that feeds the positive brush on the motor of the Pannier and the 08 I have made up from phosphor bronze strip a new pickup which I will solder the remains of the thin wire pickup to and both motors have new brushes and work beautifully now :D
The thing with the electromagnet is effectively a circuit breaker- if something shorts the two rails together, it'll disconnect the power briefly and make a loud buzzing sound (and hopefully avoid shorting the battery too badly).
Brilliant again. Well done Vince.
I had exactly the same train set in the 1950s. The battery box held those big batterys which I got fed up going flat so dad got me a mains transformer/controller. 6201 - Princes Elizabeth.
My very first trainset was that one!
Those coaches have "gone banana " where the plastics have lost rigidity over the years.
This is similar to the problem you have had with the shrinkage of nylon gears cracking on metal shafts due to the evaporation of oils in the plastics themselves.
I once saw a video on solving triang banana coaches placed in a bath of warmed mineral oil and a spring placed in the body to stretch them back into shape.
You really need a bench power supply for your repairs :-)
I still do not have one. It can be hard to work around not having one but I have. Its on my list of things I need.
He needs a bench / table first ;)
I believe the the correct battery is the PP6 which is a lantern battery but the contacts are not diagonal, where does it say 12V because a lot of electric trains sets were approx 15 to 18V.
The coil is for overload cutout.
The resistance of the variable speed control will only be a low resisance i.e. 20 ohms.
You could use your DMM to find where the power has disappeared when the train stops.
I would have got one of those AC to DC converters that everything uses, those black plastic plugs with a little box on them with a small wire to a barrel jack that all sorts of appliances use.
I couldn't find my original MegaDrive one so I just searched eBay for a 10V 1.2A DC power supply, and got the perfect one for very little money.
You could search for a 12V (something) amps one in eBay or probably in the tip, and wire it up directly to the battery box (with a switch so it doesn't charge the batteries!) so that this set could be mains operated as well, which I'd think the buyer would appreciate more than having to replace these huge batteries.
Awesome video, been following this series of challenges and funny enough I actually have this exact same train set up on my shelf. It was the last ever present I brought for my dad before he passed away, he always loved model trains and I figured out this was the first train set he ever got as a kid. So I found one on eBay and restored it and gave it to him for Christmas.
Haven't touch it since he went, but this video gave me that push to get it down again. Bit emotional as I took it down and realised the actual train was still sitting on top of the box in bubble wrap, from when I had taken it out to bring it to my dad at the hospice in his final days, one of my last moments with my Dad he was showing off his train to his friends who were visiting. I never actually got the battery power supply working when I brought it, so I reckon I'm going to see if I can get it working again, then fix up the box and keep it all safely stored.
From what I remember when I researched this train set 'No1 Passenger Train" it's the first ever set released under the Tri-ang brand by Rovex Plastics ltd, Rovex first introduced an early version of this train in the late 40's under their own name, but this is the first of the Tri-ang branded sets. In the 60's Tri-ang were brought out by Hornby and they continued to use the Tri-ang style set up, so this is also one of the first modern style Hornby/Tri-ang train sets as well. The train itself "Princess Elizabeth (The Queen)' is painted in war time black; all trains were painted black during the war to be as hard to spot as possible to enemy bombers. They later released a version in the red livery you saw on google as well.
Anyway cheers for the video dude, look forward to the next season!
Well that is a great comment, sorry to hear about your dad but it sounds like you had a great relationship with him :-) I never knew that about war time black, never heard of it before so thanks for sharing all the info :-)
To hell with those batteries! Rig up a 12 Volt adapter with a high amperage, that will get the train going!
The contacts are made from brass strip, you could extend them using single sided circuit board (if you have any). The inside of food tins tend to have a lacquer coating ie non conductive.
The electromagnet is a circuit breaker which cuts power if the track is short circuited in an event of a derailment where the metal wheels are bridged between the two rails. It's there for safety to prevent the batteries from overheating in such circumstances.
Perfect, thanks for this, I worked out that is was triggered by a short but I didn't think of a derailment causing it. Thanks for passing on the info :-)
I used to have this exact set and I used to nick the batteries from the yellow road work lights.
I would have used lashings of brown source on that track and rinsed if off in the sink. It brings metal up a treat.
vince, if u want to find the right type of battery have a google for vintage everready batteries. there are some old ones with terminals inline like that battery holder
Pretty sure the orignal lantern batteries the terminals was next to each other and not on a diagonal which would fit the power box
i had 2 of these sets as a child (hand-me-downs from my 2 older brothers) . Later on, in the 70's i remember seeing something on tv, about the "Princess Elizabeth" engine being rare and worth quite a bit. but as my sets were Triang Hornby, they were very common. Either the engines marked Triang alone are rare, or Hornby for that matter. Both companies had merged when my sets were produced, so your engine may be quite rare. might be a good idea to mention "Triang Princess Elizabeth" in the ebay listing.
Thanks for the information :-)
25:50 the speed controller is a potentiometer (variable resistor) so without load, the voltage will be close to the source voltage. A voltage drop only happens when there is current (voltage drop = current flowing * resistance). When you measure it, there is very little current so the drop is very little
Love the old train! You fixed that battery connections great! I'm thinking it might use a screw terminal 6v battery for one of the torches where the battery is the base. At any rate, it looks great! I was also wondering if maybe you hook the battery case directly to the track so it's portable and that metal gear box came with a brick power supply for the wall that dropped the voltage to 12v. Great job, Vince!
Thanks Jim :-)
Simple resistance controls (resistors, rheostats, potentiometers) drop voltage only in proportion to the load (draw) of the item they connect to. With no load the voltage coming out will be little different from the input. With the load (motor) applied it will have a range of control.
This is a constant in electronics and is how voltages are set by resistors in all circuits. Values are calculated using a formula (Ohm's Law) to give the desired result. Under no-load conditions voltage passes through with little hindrance but voltage will drop as loads increase.
Battery operation was common in early train sets as it was thought that it was dangerous to allow children to play with mains connections. It is only in recent decades that well-insulated transformers and children gaining experience and confidence using plug-in items that parents and manufacturers have made line operated supplies (aka transformers) common and trusted. Youngsters today routinely use audio devices, tools, games, and toys on electrical systems.
There are now sophisticated power units used by hobbyists that have controlled and constant outputs that can even simulate real train behavior. The current system used by serious hobbyists is digital control (DCC - Digital Command Control) that can control sound, lights, speed, direction, and other functions.
Model trains have come a long way since the 50and 60s.
Great info, thanks for sharing it :-)
I think the batteries for the rovex controller were ever ready pp7 type.
You have two controllers there.
The big one is an integrated one with the pp7 batteries inside the case and the smaller one is just a rheostat where you take a power feed from a 12 volt battery pack or a transformer outputting 12 volt dc.
Yep that's how parallel and series work but parallel makes the amps higher
I know it's too late now but if you fix one again maybe rubbing an old gold ring on the track would help . Love the videos mate
Good news is that any train hobby shop will have all the parts you need and then some. Everything about that train looks like standard very available fare..
man after my heart a train set love you
Good luck bud hope you win this time and even that score up :) looking forward to your next upload as always
You're A very nice guy! I watch you Every day!
Thank you :-)
it looks great fun and nice to see it saved for future generations to appreciate. when cleaning the track did you also clean the connector pins on each section is those being dirty may be losing you power and some dead spots on the track
Thanks. No, I didn't but I will do that with a little wire brush before resale. I never really thought about cleaning them :-)
Enjoy your videos! Here's a top tip : try a pencil eraser to clean copper contacts. Works really well on video games and PC boards contacts. Then go back over with IPA
Try Brasso wadding to clean the track and wheels
Was about to suggest same thing, great minds think alike.. :)
Apparently a pencil eraser is good for cleaning tracks, Vince. Another good video :) Routing for Team GB
indeed that's what I used to use on mine. but those wheels needed further cleaning imho
You can try to use white winegar to clean the corrotion of the rails, a bath of 30min is good enough to remove corrotion and have better contact
Thanks for the tip :-)
My Mate VINCE how can i do to send to you a present for your channel?
Hi, thanks for the offer but I would rather you treat yourself to something instead of donating to this channel. I make money from the adverts at the beginning and end of the videos so I don't have to rely on donations. Thanks for the very kind offer though :-)
@@Mymatevince oh ok, i would like to send to you a screw kit from iFixit, nevermind :-)
9:43 Oh look its a STEAM Train lol
I always used an eraser to clean my tracks. Did a great job.
The old batteries had inline contacts, not angled. I still remember them. They no longer exist
PP6 are lantern batteries with inline contacts, they were common when I was younger.
Subbed through steves' channel !
👍😉
00 gauge wire wool is a friend you should have, great for 'cleaning' terminals and all metals, Also the number on the train is the only real way to match a train, on the outside by the driver section eg: 700123
It's been proven: Stagnation means decline. Great work mate.
Ayy great timing
Maybe a track rubber which are made to clean model railway tracks
For cleaning the track, if it's just tarnished, rubber eraser.
Older batteries had the connections directly left and right on the top of the batteries,not angle like the newer ones. They would have fit in perfect. Battery design has changed since that was made
Maybe it was modified to use LR12 batteries? If the original type of batteries is difficult to find perhaps the previous owner straighten the contact plates to allow the usage of LR12 ones, it would work i think (slower as these are 4,5V instead of 6, but enough to move the train).
I looked and did not see anyone suggest this. I would use green scotchbright to clean the surfaces.
Great video, Vince!
Nice work mate! Your videos are always entertaining. Greetings from Peru :)
Thank you :-)
British vintage stuff and bewildering electrical engineering. Where have I heard of this before?
I've seen a lot of sets built using silicone on those type of tracks to mount on boards etc prob use the same idea to keep tracks together if it going to be prem set
AN eraser to cleen track very good or fiber glass pen.
Very cool. liked 👍
Hi Tampatec. Thanks for stopping by :-)
Did you sub and turn on your notifications too?
The other controller was for a different set. Confusing huh! I vaguely remember a slot car set that works simular to that. I think the arm broke off. Those sets were so cheap anyways. The brass would oxidize and they wouldnt work. I remember those preslot car HO scale size.
i use to just use wet and dry sandpaper the really fine one then wipe off with paper towel with some IPA
I enjoy your videos, Vince.
I have to say though, in the past, you have fixed many things with broken plastic bits (you even sculpted a mirror for that RC car), so I am disappointed that you didn't even attempt to repair the bracket that holds the back wheels in place.
Still, though, a very enjoyable video. :)
Yeah, actually I should have done that with the 3D pen. It didn't actually enter my mind!!! I still have this train as it didn't sell so I can do that as it may help the back wheels stay on the track :-) Thanks for letting me know. All the best, Vince.
PP9 batteries were 9 volts instead of 6, so that may also be a factor why the train struggles a bit
But it didn't take PP9 batteries. It took P996 Lantern batteries (6V). The train does run on 12V (my brother had one with an updated mains powered controller which delivered 12V). I think the train goes fast enough (as fast as I remember it - any faster would look totally unrealistic). The problem is just the occasional bad contact with the track. It's really important to get the track pieces fitting properly and making reliable electrical contact with each other (they tend to move a bit and break contact as the train goes round the track if not 100% connected).
These train's are designed to run on 12 volts not 18 volts. Yes would give it more power but would damage the motors.
Did they change the contacts somewhere down the line then? It is strange the battery will fit but the contacts don't
I'm not sure that they have changed the battery layout over the years i have done a search that shows other 6 volt lantern batterys with the correct terminal layout but they won't fit in that box. as for the terminal's i have looked at other tri-ang set that use that box and they are the same. may be there was a small part that fitted on the positive spring of the battery and touched across to the positive terminal on the box.
Love your videos hit a million subscribers keep it up
Yes, the wood (now concrete) pieces that hold rails in place (in real life) are known as "crossties" in the states and "sleepers" in your neighborhood.
I wonder if the design of the battery has changed. I seem to remember the plus and minus being opposite each other on the battery in my old radio.
another great video
Thank you :-)
the bottle I believe is the chemical that makes the steam train give off smoke while its running around
I need your skills VINCE.
I use to use a eraser shape like a pencil pulled string to unwrap paper to expose more eraser
use an eraser or track cleaner to clean metal contact surfaces..works as an abrasive
19:20 tin cans for food usually have a coating inside to prevent oxidizing, so they're not conductive.
Just wondering if you had to pieces of tin that could soldered to each outer contact in the form of a cross in order to contact the outer spring contact.
lmao at "oh no its gone"
Wire wool will do good with the tracks
I remember the batteries you should use for this thing but the last time i have ever seen them was probably in 1985, and actually the "speed controller thing" is not meant to be used with the battery box, its meant to be used with a mains power supply which you get separately! The battery thingy is just for easy usage or so, back in the days i never even touched that and just used the speed controller thing with a mains power supply
Thanks for the info :-)
@MyMateVINCE you need to clean the track with a track rubber
30:10 = me when I was 2 years old trying to get my train to move (Vince you look like you were trying to do that) xddddd
looks like a HO set try using a new track and get track connectors for power at one joint wired to new power pack
Would have been nicer with like a tool box latch on the broken side and a small hinge on the other. Like how an old ammo box would be.
The entire time watching this, I was thinking of Gomez Addams, finally got that moment at 43:15
some fine steel wool work well to clean the track give that a shot mate!
Thanks for the tip :-)
@@Mymatevince no problem thats why we all here to help each other out to make a better world!
Omg, I had one very similar as a child and it made smoke.
If the coins helped just because it was metal on metal wouldn't some steel wool or even a grill cleaning brush have worked just as well and possibly quicker?
I tryed getting an RC fireboat on E- Bay but they wanted $100 for something that doesnt work. For $9 dollars more I can get one that works. I offered $45 plus shipping and they said no. I dont really care but it would have been fun to fix it. I already upgraded one like it to an actual RC quality receiver/ transmitter and servos. The listing said it didnt operate but would be good for display. The thing is... Its not a display item. The quality isnt high enough. It is all plastic, not a high end unit. Oh well. I dont think they really wanted to sell it.
If cheap enough replace the wires from the power to the switch and to the track and use a fine wire wool on the track when will this be on eBay I want it
Hi, I need to get it listed either Sunday or Monday. I think I overpaid for this though. There looks to be better ones on eBay :-)
Great item.