Ford Ranger/Mazda B2300 Blend Door Replacement
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- čas přidán 25. 08. 2024
- Using a 2003 Mazda B2300 aka a Ford Ranger I demonstrate an improved method for changing the Blend Door as well as the Blend Door Actuator. On this vehicle both components were damaged where they interface, necessitating replacement. You may have to replace your blend door for the same reason, or if it gets stuck.
Buy the blend door here:
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A dremel tool for this job is essential: amzn.to/2GvDYDa
Great video, helped a lot. One thing that helped me that isn't mentioned anywhere is taking out the passenger seat, access is improved by 1,000%
My mechanic quoted $1400 to replace the blender door on my 2008 Ranger. You just saved me a ton of money. Thanks!
That's great brother
@@LehewTech I believe she is a "sister"
Craziest part is your mechanic probably would of used this guys method and never told you about it to pocket the cash 💵
Thank you for the video! Replaced mine today on a 1996 Ford Ranger. Didn't have as much room as you did to work but got it done. Couple of extra tips, my metal adapter on the hinge was super tight on both ends, so I worked them back and forth with a little grease and it then went on easily. Getting the old door off was a bear, I was able to get a pair of vise grips clamped on and then used a pry bar on the vise grips. Thought about this afterwards, was worried about cut out plastic piece interfering with door after I taped it, maybe put a screw in the middle first so you have something to hold on to when you tape it up, then take the screw out and tape the little hole. Thanks again, couldn't have and wouldn't have even tried it without watching your video first.
That's great brother stay cool
Thank you! This video really set me straight on this job. I had seen several, but they were confusing. This video was awesome! Especially about breaking the old door to get it out. I used a pair of channelocks and grabbed it and broke it and it came right out. And the trick of removing the metal cam and fitting it through the top hole was perfect. After breaking out the old door, installing the new one was very easy and fast! Thanks again!!
Glad to help, thanks for watching
just bought a Mazda B2300, blend door broken. This video is a Godsend. Thanks for taking the time to make a video !
fantastic job , explained in a VERY Professional way , Man knows what he's talking about and doing very helpful
Good hack. Good job. I'd suggest that before you try to replace the actuator motor back onto the heater box, orient the actuator shaft by connecting door and actuator, after connecting power plug. Test it by
plugging it back in and turn to max cold (door closes and swings away to left) or max warm (door opens and swings towards you to right). Place door inside box in the fully closed/max heat or fully open/max cold position. Unplug the motor from power connector. Place the metal pin from atop the box into the slot in the door below. Place the actuator motor atop the heater box. Then put actuator motor pin down into metal pin and door will already be oriented to each other. Snap it (or screw it in on some models) on all corners.
Plug wire harness back it, and test door by turning dash temperature dial from full cool to full warm while watching door swing fully, back and forth. Proceed to close box with metal tape.
Second year with my truck. Door of hell will be shut down this weekend 🔥🔥🔥🔥!!!! Thank you 👍👍👍
It is a very good video. Getting the blend door out is a challenge, breaking it wasn't easy. Another tip is taking out the passenger seat really makes access 1,000 times easier.
A dremel tool for this job is essential: amzn.to/2GvDYDa
You can buy the new blend door here:
amzn.to/2OJFCnF
Hey Thank You for posting and I always appreciate when someone shares some simple and risk-free alternatives. :D
Great video. Your instructions show how the replacement door has the removable metal crown which makes an easy installation. Other videos didnt mention that. I would have figured it out but saving time is the object here. Im going to use black duct tape for looks.
Great video, i am going to do the exact same way you had done to replace the blend door and actuator . Thanks from chilly Canada
Thanks man, good luck with it and thanks for watching.
Thank you!! I pulled my actuator and it appears to be functioning properly. With it out I could take a picture from the top to see where the actuator fit into the door was broken.
Super good info. The directions don't say anything about the metal piece coming out. U r a lifesaver!!!!!
I got the doorman 902-221 door too but the metal part on the hinge appears to be glued in
Have a 1996 Mazda truck B2300 and recently hit a pothole and my Air went from cold to hot real fast and thinking the blend door is messed up. Thank so much for the video it helps so much.
Well done video! I have done this job using the "heater treater" which is a little spendier part (120) but has a cool little pop spring to make installation a bit easier. Any breaks you can get in a tight space, especially if you are a stiff old guy like me........well explained, sir!
I agree with you, but $119 vs. 10 is no comparison in my book. Had another good video as well. Thank you.
Just did this to my 98 ranger. It was miserable in Texas without a mixing door. Thanks again
Very easy to follow video…. Nice job 👍
Awesome video. Showed me what I can do to solve this problem. Appreciate the work
By far the best video on this.
The kit is from Dorman products part #902-221. It works on an Explorer too. Tape and instructions come with it. I bought mine from Advance Auto Parts. The other big parts stores have it too. One alternative to the tape is I bought Permatex plastic weld at Lowes near the gorilla glue. It's a two part epoxy tube and the stuff is amazing repairing plastic. 3500 lb hold strength. Then after it dries out you tape on top.
Miss the days of being so flexibly to get it tight spots. If you turn On AC to max setting, it will trigger the under hood water blend valve vacuum actuator, then the water will stop circulating to heater core. And then unplug AC compressor. No cost temporary work around to turn off heat.
I was thinking of zip tying the blend valve to "off" (?) during the summer so the a/c could run. My door is stuck to heat side.
Thanks , I will have my mechanic do it because I need surgery on my right shoulder and can’t use it . I have a tear on my C- cup that needs to be taken care of. But this saves me so much money.
This is freaking awesome! Thank you 👍
I used a soldering iron to cut mine out but you did an EXCELLENT job on yours. You pretty much have to break the door to get it out unless you do it the way the shop manual explains.
Prior to replacing the door for the long-term fix. I just wrapped some tape around the actuator shaft to give it more bulk to be able to move the blend door again. But that was just for the short-term fix for those waiting on the blend door to arrive.
Thanks brother glad u got it working
I've got a 98 ranger. I pulled the accuator out enough to slip on a 1/4" or so, rubber hose. I then made cuts in the hose on the bottom, to spread the hose a little .
When inserted, it grabbed the blend door shaft, a little.
While it opened or closed the door, the force of the air moved it to one position or the other.
There was no in between.
It was all or nothing.
@@thecanaryisdead4745 Yeah, you came to pretty much the same conclusion I did. After 20 years of Michigan winters and summers those actuator hinges seem to grind out the grip especially on top. But it only took me about 1/2 hour to get the out blend door out and a new one installed. I'm in Arizona now and really don't need the heater but a couple months.
@@thecanaryisdead4745 I think I paid like $11.00 for the new blend door, so certainly not a bank breaker.
Thanks for this. Eventually the AC overpowers the heat, but it needs fixed
It can take quite a while to get the door out if it isn't fully broken on top. I spent over 5 hours on this project so far. Recommend making a complete hole, not just a flap. Battling with a flap while trying to cut and break apart the old door was near impossible. When I cut off the plastic completely I was able to better access the door with tin snips and pliers. Unfortunately I think I left some peices in the vent!
So once I got the door extracted it was all downhill baby! Except that when inserting the metal piece on top it fell backwards into an irretrievably spot behind the dash. At least I will know what that rattle is!
Contacted the company to see if they can send the metal piece or if I have to order a new door.
I recommend getting your fingers really sticky or sticking a bunch of rags behind where the attenuator goes.
well done
took me about hour and a half, the biggest bitch was breaking that tip, tried regular pliers, no go, got some huge channel locks and that finally did the trick, thanks
Hey thanks man. Great time saver.
Thank you so much that's really helped me out today save me a lot of time and money
Cool! I think this is the issue on my 2005 Ford Ranger. It will blow cool great, then not, then literally I can go around a turn or hit a bump and the cool will flow again.
I betcha it's because the door is not locked into the actuator. This solved my problem too.
Could also be a dry rot vacuum hose. Vac leaks make it default to defrost. The air is still there, but hitting the windshield
YEA!!!! Great job... I have to work on my neighbors truck...thanks!
Getting ready to replace mine today, thanks for the video.
Good luck brother
How did it turn out?
Thanks for the video! I just did mine, thanks to your help.
Thanks for watching. What did you use to cut the box open?
@@LehewTech a dremel.
Thanks alot sr the best way to save money and fix it for your self 👍🏻
Thanks for watching
Would silicone seal the cuts better? Then tape it?
great video bud , you did a awesome job thank you
Use a screw to hold bottom piece and glue gun the cut out back in place. Good vid and alternative
hey thank you so much, this will work on my Explorer too for sure!
Thanks or the video! I just did mine. It was stuck on heat... don't need that in southern AZ!
Yea man thanks for watching stay frosty
Same here, I'm in Tucson and it's late June.
i bought my truck just over this passed weekend (97 ford version) and the heat is stuck on as well. its cold here but the cab is so small it cooks me out and i have to drive with windows down. im hoping the ac still works.....
Thank you
Having trouble getting the top to break any tips?
I'm having same problem... Any suggestions?
@@tinageiger9559 i reccently was able to get mine out through the bottom of the dash using a big set of vice grips tightended as much as i can and pulled down and back with both arms on the vice grips, it does take alot of effort/strength to get the door to break and even with the vice grips but thats the best way i found to do it without cutting my hand fighting the door
Desde Argentina, un gran trabajo, gracias
I just used this to help with replacing the blend door on a ranger that friends are giving to their daughter as her first car, but which would roast you out of the cabin if the HVAC was on.
$20 in parts, and a leasurely hour to install the new door, and it works correctly for the first time in the 3-4 years that they've owned the truck.
lol this legend saves you from removing dash
This is interesting. I had a 98 Ford Ranger and it has this issue. I remember sometimes it would change the temps but then when it was stuck I’d be burning in the summer or freezing in the winter. Being in the mid 2000s I didn’t know how to fix it. I was just curious and now I’m mad it was only 40 bucks in parts.
Love it. Nice video!
AWESOME IDEA...THANKS !
I can't get the air to come out of the vents. It's only coming out of the defrost. What can I do?
Awesome gonna try it
Very nice thanks !
Thank you fine sir!
How to change the ac cabin filter
Just spent almost 2hrs trying to get old door out with no luck. Too much aggravation so came in and try it again in the morning. Hopefully I get it cuz my truck is out of commission til then
It took a lot of force to break the door out
i just did the blend door actuator on my 98. i cut a hole on the face of the box. not under as i did not replace the blend door but i did find that the blend door would only move about an inch or so open and closed. the door isnt broken or cracked up top oddly enough. so the new actuator popped right down and its functioning but it seemed strange to me that the door only moves like an inch.
NICE! Thank you!
I might use my oscillating tool for better control and avoid the pull of the Dremel to make curves.
How do you confirm the orientation of the Actuator before installing it? If the door is closed, can the actuator be in the open position or does it move less than 180 degrees?
I have a question, I put the new door in and also the metal piece on top, unfortunately I put it in to where the piece that’s supposed to fit into the metal bit is unable to fit in, I was wondering if there’s some way I can remove the metal piece from the door or if the white piece on top can be rotated
Nvm I just answered my own question, if this happens to you, you can go to the bottom and push it off
Repair the blend door actuator on a Lincoln Mark 8, new 98 model
Can I just drill a hole underneath and then use tin snips to cut the plastic out?
why dont you use goop automotive glue tack in 3or4 spots tape it on until it sets then remove the tape and seam it in with goop
Looks way simpler than removing dash and all
will this work for a 2006 ford ranger xlt?
I replace the blend door actuator but it still doesn't move when I turn the switch what can I do?
Got a link or P/N for the blend door (with the metal hinge ring)? Awesome. Got a 98 Ranger that everyone wants $1300 to do.
EBay
It’s cool to find this but it’s a bit difficult to try and pull the damn door out. Still trying to take mine out
It's been a few years since I did this but I do remember the door being hard to remove.. you may have to break it into pieces
I have an 07 sport , both lines to the core get hot .
The Fan blows well in all positions also .
How did you determine if it was the switch/climate control swicth or the
actuator itself
I like to remove the actuator and see if it turns when I change the temp. (It must be plugged in with the vehicle on to do this check. If the actuator is seized then replace it. You can also try to move the blend door to see if it moves freely or binds
@@LehewTech thank you , I also hear a hiss for about 2 seconds when I turn the dial from vent , defrost , floor , etc but I doubt it's a vacum system . But indefinitely hear the air hiss a short while after I shut it off
I have a 1998 Ford explorer eddie Bower...can it work on my explorer...I need some help... from Newport Beach ca 🇺🇲...
Can that tape be used for the main plastic housing it sits on?
Just tried this, but I can’t break the door out. I’m going to try the method shown on Heater Treater’s web site (and CZcams) using a flex shaft dremel to cut the backbone of it. A regular dremel can’t get the angle.
Good luck man
Mine's broken but I still get cold air on Max A/C so I'm just going to leave it as is. I get cold when I want cold and hot when I want hot.
How do I know if it’s the blend door 🚪 or the actuator
Turn your hot and cold dial while the actuator is out and see if it turns if not you’ll hear a clicking of a stripped gear or it won’t turn at all
I can’t get the damn metal piece off!
Informative video, I just removed my actuator (Ford Ranger) which was held in by screws, crap! Anyway, how do I properly reinstall the actuator since I don't know what the heat/cool setting was? I don't want to strip the gears on the new unit. Thanks
Crap is right! That third screw in back on mine is NOT going back in. I used the knob on the dash to set the shaft on the actuator about mid-range... stuck a 1/4" allen wrench in the socket on the door, that way I could set IT about midrange... then filed a chamfer on the shaft so it went into the socket easier. I imagine you've got yours all back together now, working on these things is a PAIN.
How do you get the old blend door off??? "had to use two hands" doesn't tell me anything. Spent over an hour on it including breaking the door all up with channel locks but the rod hasn't budged. What am I doing wrong???
Having the exact same issue definitely post if you get it out
Help! You posted a link to the blend door but not to the actuator... Where can I get the actuator? Thanks for your video and help on this matter/
You can go A1 Auto or AutoZone...👍
Question, I have a 2008 Ford Ranger. My heat is super hot and the max AC works good. But there’s no in between, no cool or warm. Is this the blend door? Or actuator or maybe the temperature control?
Greg Th Roberts Mine did the same thing until the compressor went. I just pulled the actuator motor and stuck my phone on top to take a pick of the end of the bled door. Broken. I’ll be doing this in addition to replacing the entire AC system on my ‘98 ranger. The truck runs perfectly, so I hope to get a couple more years out of it.
Thanks for the video very helpful. My problem is my air will not turn off. So I have air blowing all the time. I do know it is because of a vac hose that is connected to a valve passenger side under glove box. I somehow mixed up the lines and now it won't turn off. anyone know the original way third vac hoses need to be connected?
What is the year make and model of your truck? I will try to find out for you
The heat stays on in my 97 Ranger 4.0 L. The cabin heater/ac temp control button feels like it has no resistance when you turn it. Will this fix it, or could this be a control panel issue?
I think it is normal for the temperature control knob to turn smoothly, it is not directly actuating the blend door. I would remove the actuator at the top, leaving it plugged into the wiring and see if it turns as you turn the control knob. If it does not turn, you can put a new actuator there and see if the new one turns. You can also check to see if you are able to turn the blend door with a small flat bladed screwdriver
Your not replacing blend door cause it was broken. You said you broke it taking it out
I have a 97 explorer sport 4.0 and the ac blows cold for only a few minutes before it blows hot would this be the blend door or something else?
when the ac blows hot, its typically out of freon
Any idea why the MAX AC don't blow any harder?
Vacuum leaks make it default to defrost
How did you manage to take the old blend door off so easily?
I broke it
@@LehewTech You must have pulled it really hard because I couldn't break it off
Did you go to the Dealer for the Blend door?.
You can buy it cheap here: amzn.to/2OJFCnF
Advance, AutoZone and O'Reilly's has it too. It's a Dorman brand.
You might not have to cut the bottom out all the way, doing mine Monday so I’ll let you know
Well
Did you cut the whole bottom out?
Boy, they didn’t leave you a lot of room. The drive pin is not magnetic..i found this out after mine fell behind the heater core. Argh!
I know what I am doing tonight....
Why not just add a dab of silicone sealant on the end of the actuator where it connects to the blend door to glue it togather . It will fill gaps and stop unwanted rotation in the sleeve. And is easily removed if dosnt work.
Bad advice. Never just go cutting someone's car like that. This is a crap mechanic who has no sense.
One tip when cutting the hole just CT the 2 front sides of the triangle. Then the flap will bend down to give you access but doesn't come off completely.