LT1 No Start Diagnostics Part 1 link to part 2 added to description.

Sdílet
Vložit
  • čas přidán 25. 08. 2024
  • For Part 2 watch BAD OPTI BASE video. That ended up being the issue.
    • Lt1 No Start part 2: B...
    Diagnosing an #LT1nostart issue after the car died at WOT. We had already checked for spark, (which it had), checked fuel pressure, and had swapped out the opti with a known good sensor in a spare base I had laying around. What we didn't know was the other opti base we used (Oreilly,s brand) was bad as shown in the Bad Opti Base video.
    In this video we were changing out the plugs that we knew needed to be changed out prior to the death of the car, he just refused to change them until they were way past due.

Komentáře • 11

  • @vincentfisher4748
    @vincentfisher4748 Před rokem +1

    Man .l,m going through the same frustration with my lt1 in my 94 formula bird. GM wasn't big on serviceability during development of the 93 -97 lt1 F body . It would have been a Hella more easier if Chevy went with a coil per cylinder ignition setup like on like on the 3.8 Buick V6 back during development the Gen 2 lt1.

  • @eyeshocars9978
    @eyeshocars9978 Před 2 lety +1

    Man I'm having the same issue with a 96 caprice. Before it stopped starting it's was running lean and bad misfire. So I proceeded to tune it up. New opti, new plugs (ebay) acdelco, new ignition control module, coil pack, crank sensor, temperature sensor in water pump, only thing I haven't change was the temperature gauge sensor in the head. Could that be my problem? Plus when I turn the key on the temperature goes all the way to hot, or bad spark plugs? I'm not getting spark

    • @GoodnewsBadnewsGarage
      @GoodnewsBadnewsGarage  Před 2 lety

      This one ended up being just a bad opti. Long story short, I used a different opti all together to test it and that was our problem the entire time. Watch my opti video, link in the description. That's part two of this. Also, it's never a good idea you fire the new parts cannon. Not all new parts are good and most aren't as good of quality as the oem. Have you checked fuel pressure at the rail with a gauge?

  • @anbutler1999
    @anbutler1999 Před 2 lety +1

    Mannnn where's the rest.. I think I'm having the same problem right now

    • @GoodnewsBadnewsGarage
      @GoodnewsBadnewsGarage  Před 2 lety +1

      I'm pretty sure it was a bad opti, but we ran into this and thought it was a thinking chain issue so we ended up swapping in another engine with an lt4 hotcam. It wasn't until after we did that we realized the opti could have been the only other thing that caused the issue. We fixed it and it fired right up.

    • @GoodnewsBadnewsGarage
      @GoodnewsBadnewsGarage  Před 2 lety +1

      Unfortunately we misdiagnosed the engine as having a bad timing chain due to having found a bad opti base as shown in the the video below. I had used a parts store (O'Reilly's Spectra) opti base with a known working Mitsubishi sensor and cap and rotor test his opti and the car still wouldn't start.
      czcams.com/video/wS6C5CylM40/video.html

    • @GoodnewsBadnewsGarage
      @GoodnewsBadnewsGarage  Před 2 lety +1

      Also worth noting he killed the car at WOT. It popped/backfired and never restarted until we swapped engines (he wanted to anyway) and then found the bad opti base. His original base was fine and we ended up rebuilding it with the good sensor in the video I linked. Hope you figure it out soon.

    • @anbutler1999
      @anbutler1999 Před 2 lety +1

      Thank you for the insight.. but I ended up changing the opti out.. nd still no start.. may need to check the fuel pump next

    • @GoodnewsBadnewsGarage
      @GoodnewsBadnewsGarage  Před 2 lety

      @@anbutler1999 man I hate that for you. Fuel pressure should have been one of the first checks though as it's way easier than changing out an opti. Also, just because it's a new opti doesn't mean it's good. I've had 4 out of that box that were all bad. The only aftermarket opti I've seen worth the money is a TSP (top street performance). Otherwise it's always best to just do a cap and rotor if you can verify your original Mitsubishi sensor is still good