Thank you for posting this video. This is only the second time I replaced brake calipers because I always found it to be intimidating, but as you showed, it is not difficult. When I was young I tried to change the pistons in the brake cylinder, and never attempted calipers because I always wound up with leaking parts. It is so inexpensive to just buy re-manufactured calipers and bolt them on, and avoid the tricky issues. For $130 I replaced the front calipers, pads, and brake hoses - the rotors are in great shape, and I won;t have to worry about front brake repairs for about 5 years - well worth the small price. The hardest part was communicating with my wife when we bled the brake line. Finally I told her " just speak 2 words until we are done...'pressure' when you have pumped up the brake pedal and 'floor' when it gets close to the floor"...and I only said "pump it up" and "ok" when it is okay to let her foot off the brake pedal. That system worked well for us. Daniel, thank you so much for posting this video!
Thank you, Daniel for your presentation, simple explanation and for refreshing my memory! I am going to replace my front brake pads on my Nissan Quest 2000 now! Blessings, Desmond
Thanks Daniel, I have never changed brake pads myself but am going to attempt it tomorrow. I too have a mercury villager so it helped seeing it on the same type of vehicle. Thank you. Ryan.
Thanks for taking the time to share! I usually pump up the peddle and hold to bleed, and I open the bleeder a bit slower to minimize fluid loss. Also, I try to keep body parts (including feet) out from under the axle area and any other "pinch point." Again Thank-you! P.S. I'm changing caliper & wheel cylinder kits, and master cylinder all at the same time.
Good catch there!!! I recall noticing that when I took it off and thinking that was the reason I never heard any "squealing". It does belong on the inside.
Daniel, Thanks for your brake job instruction. It is the best instructions with step by step. I also like the way you bleed the fluid. Much appreciated that you have saved me a lot of bucks.
Nice video, I haven't done my own breaks in 25 years. Last time, you could still get a piston rebuild kit. My dad taught shop, I taught shop. He taught me to attach tubing to the bleed off valve and catch the brake fluid in a clean coffee can. Yah, he was.. thrifty. You also should mention not to suck the reservoir dry or you can get air back in the top side. All in all it was a good video review. It would also be wise to describe how brakes respond when there is air in the line. (i.e. rather then crisp and firm, they seem spongy and fade).
To remove the caliper bolts use a torx 45! only took me an hour to finally figure that one out and I happen to have one for my BMW 1200 GSA.... go figure.
Put a little piece of clear hose on that bleeder valve and about three or four inches or longer and then point it upwards . so that any fluid that comes out will staying the tube so when you pump it if it does suck in air which it doesn't do. it'll suck in the brake fluid
Wouldn't have noticed normally. That was the whole reason i was watching. My friends van had the pads installed incorrectly causing the pads to wear to metal on the top and be untouched on the bottom. It was pretty clear they were on wrong and inside seemed correct but i was just trying to confirm that i put them on right. Thx
Thanks for the nice video, I am getting ready to do our 97 Villager. I heard that with ABS you cannot bleed the lines as usual Is this true? I will be replacing hoses, calipers and pads. I was having a dragging issue on one of the calipers. Please let me know as soon as you can about the ABS difference in bleeding, Thanks!!!
When you first removed the wheel, the spring on the outside pad was to the outside of the caliper mount. When you installed the new pads you moved the spring clip to the inside of the mount. It seems like it belongs to the inside but which is correct?
Hi I too have a villager and want to change the brakes.. What type of wrench did you use to take off the caliper. It looked like some kind of Phillips screw driver.
a safer way to retract that piston in would be to use a c clamp, but his way was still OK if you don't have that tool i'd rather use never-seize compound on the threads of those caliper bolts; it will resist the heat better & those brakes do get HOT! it seems he didn't need to replace the calipers, just clean and relube the sliding caliper pins ~ this floating caliper design always has problems of having the INNER pad wear out a bit faster than the OUTER pad ~ i've seen it on fords, hondas, dodge, GM as well i still have the original calipers on my 2002 model, i just make sure to clean/relube those 2 caliper pins annually i would have burnished the rotor surface with some sandpaper or brush it off with wire brush... just so the new pads will "bed in" to the surfaces faster ~ not necessary, but it's better than risking a "glazing" problem i do torque my bolts to spec when it comes to something important as brakes, but he did a good job nonetheless & great job on bleeding the system via 2-person process ricebike of NicoClub.com
How much space is there supposed to be between the brake pads and the rotor? On my Villager, the space is very close. I am able to turn the wheel freely, but stops after a couple of revolutions. Is that a sign of dragging?
The pads will always drag a little. If the wheel is hard to turn you may have a problem... but sounds like you are all set. (I am assuming you are asking after you put new pads on.) If you are in doubt check with a professional.
Usermaxism Careful, almost appears that you are suggesting to put grease on the brakes. People could misconstrue this, and be hurt. Only the retaining bolts and surfaces that the pads slide along should be lightly greased. Make sure you check your repair guide for instructions.
Usermaxism the main areas of where to put the caliper grease are those 2 sliding caliper pins; he got new ones so they were already pre-lubed from the factory i agree, he should add how to remove them from the caliper, wipe them clean, blast them with brake cleaner, then relube those 2 pins
Usermaxism the main areas of where to put the caliper grease are those 2 sliding caliper pins; he got new ones so they were already pre-lubed from the factory i agree, he should add how to remove them from the caliper, wipe them clean, blast them with brake cleaner, then relube those 2 pins
I'm going to go ahead and turn the wheel now let's watch him turn the wheel he said he was going to turn the wheel so we set and then we watch him turn the wheel
Never push the caliper's piston like that ... Open the bleeder screw all that old fluid end up in the master cylinder messing the mc then you have an spongy pedal epic failure here :(((
Wow, and 15 minutes later I still didn't know any more than I did except obliviously his ass itched at about 2 min into the video...poor documentation the vid is stationary and what tools did you say????? oh, you didn't just that it could be a 1/2" almost forgot what yer was that? are all Nissan's and Villager's the same??? NO
..."brake fluid is caustic" So lets go ahead and piss it all over the ground outside, rather than into a pan for later disposal. Because screw lakes and rivers.
Thank you for posting this video. This is only the second time I replaced brake calipers because I always found it to be intimidating, but as you showed, it is not difficult. When I was young I tried to change the pistons in the brake cylinder, and never attempted calipers because I always wound up with leaking parts. It is so inexpensive to just buy re-manufactured calipers and bolt them on, and avoid the tricky issues. For $130 I replaced the front calipers, pads, and brake hoses - the rotors are in great shape, and I won;t have to worry about front brake repairs for about 5 years - well worth the small price.
The hardest part was communicating with my wife when we bled the brake line. Finally I told her " just speak 2 words until we are done...'pressure' when you have pumped up the brake pedal and 'floor' when it gets close to the floor"...and I only said "pump it up" and "ok" when it is okay to let her foot off the brake pedal. That system worked well for us.
Daniel, thank you so much for posting this video!
Thank you, Daniel for your presentation, simple explanation and for refreshing my memory! I am going to replace my front brake pads on my Nissan Quest 2000 now! Blessings, Desmond
Thanks Daniel, I have never changed brake pads myself but am going to attempt it tomorrow. I too have a mercury villager so it helped seeing it on the same type of vehicle. Thank you. Ryan.
Very clean your calipers, free of rust, with a coat of paint they look much better.
Thanks for taking the time to share! I usually pump up the peddle and hold to bleed, and I open the bleeder a bit slower to minimize fluid loss. Also, I try to keep body parts (including feet) out from under the axle area and any other "pinch point."
Again Thank-you!
P.S. I'm changing caliper & wheel cylinder kits, and master cylinder all at the same time.
The step by step processing in this video is very helpful. Thanks a lot.....two thumbs up if I can make it.
Good catch there!!! I recall noticing that when I took it off and thinking that was the reason I never heard any "squealing". It does belong on the inside.
Daniel, Thanks for your brake job instruction. It is the best instructions with step by step. I also like the way you bleed the fluid.
Much appreciated that you have saved me a lot of bucks.
+Nicholas Pham You're welcome.
Need more info like the size of socket use or if it was a allen wrench
He always tells us what he's going to do and then we have to watch him do it
Nice video, I haven't done my own breaks in 25 years. Last time, you could still get a piston rebuild kit. My dad taught shop, I taught shop. He taught me to attach tubing to the bleed off valve and catch the brake fluid in a clean coffee can. Yah, he was.. thrifty. You also should mention not to suck the reservoir dry or you can get air back in the top side. All in all it was a good video review.
It would also be wise to describe how brakes respond when there is air in the line. (i.e. rather then crisp and firm, they seem spongy and fade).
To remove the caliper bolts use a torx 45! only took me an hour to finally figure that one out and I happen to have one for my BMW 1200 GSA.... go figure.
Put a little piece of clear hose on that bleeder valve and about three or four inches or longer and then point it upwards . so that any fluid that comes out will staying the tube so when you pump it if it does suck in air which it doesn't do. it'll suck in the brake fluid
Wouldn't have noticed normally. That was the whole reason i was watching. My friends van had the pads installed incorrectly causing the pads to wear to metal on the top and be untouched on the bottom. It was pretty clear they were on wrong and inside seemed correct but i was just trying to confirm that i put them on right. Thx
Thanks for the nice video, I am getting ready to do our 97 Villager. I heard that with ABS you cannot bleed the lines as usual Is this true? I will be replacing hoses, calipers and pads. I was having a dragging issue on one of the calipers. Please let me know as soon as you can about the ABS difference in bleeding, Thanks!!!
Right now it'd be a good idea to do this tell us what you going to do and then do it
A very good action, only keep camera close and focused on area of work. Thanks.
What kind of BOLT'S IN THAT BRAKE PADS
You can get a little bleeder pump that sucks out the fluid
Thanks, your video was very helpful.
Are you using a star to unloose the calipers
When you first removed the wheel, the spring on the outside pad was to the outside of the caliper mount. When you installed the new pads you moved the spring clip to the inside of the mount. It seems like it belongs to the inside but which is correct?
Hi I too have a villager and want to change the brakes.. What type of wrench did you use to take off the caliper. It looked like some kind of Phillips screw driver.
+David Moss may be it is too late of a response.. I had hard time with this..it is T40 for Nissan Quest 2001....its a mix of hexagon with star
And what kind of socket u use please tell me ASAP
THANK you 😊
a safer way to retract that piston in would be to use a c clamp, but his way was still OK if you don't have that tool
i'd rather use never-seize compound on the threads of those caliper bolts; it will resist the heat better & those brakes do get HOT!
it seems he didn't need to replace the calipers, just clean and relube the sliding caliper pins ~ this floating caliper design always has problems of having the INNER pad wear out a bit faster than the OUTER pad ~ i've seen it on fords, hondas, dodge, GM as well
i still have the original calipers on my 2002 model, i just make sure to clean/relube those 2 caliper pins annually
i would have burnished the rotor surface with some sandpaper or brush it off with wire brush... just so the new pads will "bed in" to the surfaces faster ~ not necessary, but it's better than risking a "glazing" problem
i do torque my bolts to spec when it comes to something important as brakes, but he did a good job nonetheless
& great job on bleeding the system via 2-person process
ricebike of NicoClub.com
Helpfull mr. Thank you
replaced front calipers and brake pads, brakes still not operating. what do I check next?
What year is that vehicle?
, what kind of wrench do you use on a socket or Starkey to take off 2 caliber
When you put the pads, nothing is seen because it is out of the camera's view
How about abs models?
Can i know wich size the screw star
How much space is there supposed to be between the brake pads and the rotor? On my Villager, the space is very close. I am able to turn the wheel freely, but stops after a couple of revolutions. Is that a sign of dragging?
The pads will always drag a little. If the wheel is hard to turn you may have a problem... but sounds like you are all set. (I am assuming you are asking after you put new pads on.) If you are in doubt check with a professional.
Yes, I replaced the pads recently. Thank you!
eric470ast did you make sure the sliding caliper pins are cleaned and relubed ?
eric470ast did you make sure the sliding caliper pins are cleaned and relubed ?
Earl DaSquirrel yes the pins have been cleaned and lubed
so what is wrong with the old calipers
What year is this minivan model?!
Leave your comments and questions here.
Daniel Scheer thanks for the video .It helped me out
was that a star-headed bolt holding the calipers?
T-40
Sure was
ge didnt mbtion it is a t40 rather difficut to take apart without that????????
You did not put any grease such as pad grease and caliper grease, no wonder why your brake pads wore unevenly.
Usermaxism Careful, almost appears that you are suggesting to put grease on the brakes. People could misconstrue this, and be hurt. Only the retaining bolts and surfaces that the pads slide along should be lightly greased. Make sure you check your repair guide for instructions.
Usermaxism the main areas of where to put the caliper grease are those 2 sliding caliper pins; he got new ones so they were already pre-lubed from the factory
i agree, he should add how to remove them from the caliper, wipe them clean, blast them with brake cleaner, then relube those 2 pins
Usermaxism the main areas of where to put the caliper grease are those 2 sliding caliper pins; he got new ones so they were already pre-lubed from the factory
i agree, he should add how to remove them from the caliper, wipe them clean, blast them with brake cleaner, then relube those 2 pins
I'm going to go ahead and turn the wheel now let's watch him turn the wheel he said he was going to turn the wheel so we set and then we watch him turn the wheel
Yep, the pad replacement is out of view and you didn't show us them in the caliper before you put it back on. 😟
I have a Villager too and he's too far away...the camera is too far from his work
Never push the caliper's piston like that ... Open the bleeder screw all that old fluid end up in the master cylinder messing the mc then you have an spongy pedal epic failure here :(((
Tell us what you're going to do and then do it
Okay I'm going to go ahead and a and a I'm going to go ahead and a and a.
Why is it so hard to say what tool and size socket you're using? That's kind of the point of a How To isn't it? This one is a waste of time.
Wow, and 15 minutes later I still didn't know any more than I did except obliviously his ass itched at about 2 min into the video...poor documentation the vid is stationary and what tools did you say????? oh, you didn't just that it could be a 1/2" almost forgot what yer was that? are all Nissan's and Villager's the same??? NO
..."brake fluid is caustic"
So lets go ahead and piss it all over the ground outside, rather than into a pan for later disposal. Because screw lakes and rivers.
Eres un mecanico muy malo x tirar el aceite en el piso
Use gloves brake fluid is cancerous