This has to be one of the most underrated videos on CZcams. The info here is more important than those who chase illusions and roll with the band wagon. This is how you properly tune your car to yourself and learn to enjoy it properly.
Bunta Fujiwara will be proud of you. I bet he also do butt dyno and a smoke to tune the AE86. You can hear Yuichi screaming in Mt Akina when riding shotgun with Bunta in the AE86.
10:46 You can also use a cellphone to help you ! With G-Sensor Meter apps to get the G-force your getting and tune your engine with IT. Also take note of the 0-100Klm/H to tune with those too 😉
We have a dude here in Denmark, normal people might call him a nerd, but car guys call him Jesus 😂 Back in the days, he used a home made contraption with a bicycle wheel, and measured while adjusting fuelmap and ignitionmap on the passenger seat 👍 What you need, is a knocksensor 😊 If your Nodiz not support it, you can buy one with a blinking led or the oldschool way, use a stethoscope with a hose to out to the engine 😉 I believe you can run a bit leaner without problem, but I understand your decision to run safe 😉
If you have a vehicle that's a bit newer, you can always get a data logger and pull data from the CAN bus. Things like fueling, ignition advance, knock events (ignition retard,) and so on can be recorded to a computer and analyzed later. For things like cam timing, you can compare mass airflow between runs of different configurations to get an idea if you're improving volumetric efficiency. Ignition timing I think is probably a bit harder to tune without an ECU that lets you do live tuning. AFR that's in a reasonable range doesn't do a whole lot for power, just the longevity of your engine depending on the circumstances. Love your videos man. Keep making the good content!
This guy is smart. You don't need a $50k dyno to tune your car. After all, theory is often different than reality. I wonder what systems you are using for tuning, meaning what software?
I did the same conversion to a honda civic Eg 1.3 liter motor. You are luckier because you can read some data, like AFR and like this. To be honest, it is very difficult to make them working 100% properly! Just have in mind, that i am running carbs from a Yamaha XJ600 51j totally stock, idle jets, main jets. Without the original air filter, it is impossible to create the vaccum that they want to work properly. If you want to run your carbs like you have them, no airfilter, you must heavily modify your carbs, -difficult if no experience, like my case-. I spent 2 years of testing an modifying the carbs, air boxes, inlet manifolds, air fuel ratio, and also to make the car passes the emmision test! If you want any kind of help to your project, just mail me!
Hey man, thanks a lot for your offer! I really appreciate it, sounds like you have a lot of experience and I would love to talk details. I do have an air filter on them. It's a pipercross filter, you can see it on many of my other vids. Where can I find your email?
Why are your target AFRs so rich? They seem more appropriate for protecting a boosted engine from knock rather than a high revving N/A engine? I’m sure you did this for a purpose so, if you don’t mind me asking, what was that purpose?
@Driving 4 Answers @Everybody - I'm having an issue with my 350Z. Stationary, Engine On, Neutral, Foot off clutch = vibrating/tapping Stationary, Engine On, Neutral, Rev = vibrating/tapping gets slightly faster Stationary, Engine On, Neutral, Press clutch in = Vibrating/tapping STOPS Driving, any gear, foot off clutch = vibrating/tapping Driving, any gear, Press clutch in = vibrating/tapping STOPS - as soon as I release clutch, it starts again. Any ideas?
Hmmm... Seems to be something to do with the clutch.... :) This is just a guess and everything will be a guess until you take it apart or have it checked. I would suspect the clutch pressure plate or maybe even the flywheel if it's dual mass (is it? I don't know the 350z that well). Is it hard to get the car to take off normally from a stand still.
You really can't avoid talking it to a mechanic one way or another. A decent mechanic will likely not give you a definitive diagnosis until he does a thorough check. Just driving the car around can reveal a lot but it will never be a 100% accurate diagnosis until the car is put on a lift and properly inspected, and yes a mechanic will charge for that because he is taking his time to check it and we are all paid for our time.
I disagree... the 4AGE isnt a low power engine considering its a 1.6. Name me a 1.6 that makes 160-190hp N/A. There's really only the B16... after that, they all went fucking turbo. This is a low displacement race engine... that's what I would call it. Same way a 2-stroke 300cc is still a race engine.
99.99% of 16v 4A-GEs don’t make anywhere near those power levels. Neither do the vast majority of 20v engines. The 4A-GZE engines will barely make that at the crank but will be much lower on the dyno measured at the wheels. I’m not sure what you’re talking about unless you’re talking about the very few fully built N/A engines with days of precise porting and 7A-FE stock-stroker bottom ends out there.
@@negativeindustrial 4AGEs are only meta because of their ease in power increase. Same reason people buy Honda engines or Nissan engines... only difference is a C16 or a D16 have less aftermarket support for N/A performance. And no, the top figure, being 190hp, is totally reachable especially on the 20v 4AGE models thanks to their very genius design with an exhaust or cam tune. If the point of the video is how to tune a 4AGE, then I dont think it's fair to call it a low power engine at its specs. That's all I'm saying tbh. And no, considering 4AGEs are hobbyist engines here in N/A, most kids modify them extensively and give them at least a 30% hp upgrade with aftermarket support imo... there's a larger community of 4AGE tuners than you'd think. I'll be chilling with my BP in the meantime
I liked the video though, I would only point out that it will be a good idea to check the spark plugs after tuning the ignition just to be sure the engine is not knocking and also trying to hear if knock is happening
@@slowvag8v Yeah, that is a good idea probably. I ran out of video time, there's a million things more to be said here, and cramming it all into one video is a bit hard.
No yeah butt dinos are basic. REAL mechanics can feel the exact moment of gear engagement in a manual transmission using only the shift lever n' their anus..... which is why I went became a chemist
![How To Tune A Turbo Engine | Turbocharged Engine Tuning 101 [GOLD WEBINAR LESSON]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Dca43nEWEys/mqdefault.jpg)
00:00 - Intro / Real dyno vs butt dyno
04:11 - My engine / setup (what we are working with)
08:31 - Cam timing
15:56 - Fuel
23:36 - Ignition maps
00:17 - Alternative method of buffing your fender paint
Hahaha
This has to be one of the most underrated videos on CZcams. The info here is more important than those who chase illusions and roll with the band wagon. This is how you properly tune your car to yourself and learn to enjoy it properly.
Imagine how helpful this is for some of us without a single Dyno in the country👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾
Bunta Fujiwara will be proud of you.
I bet he also do butt dyno and a smoke to tune the AE86. You can hear Yuichi screaming in Mt Akina when riding shotgun with Bunta in the AE86.
10:46 You can also use a cellphone to help you ! With G-Sensor Meter apps to get the G-force your getting and tune your engine with IT. Also take note of the 0-100Klm/H to tune with those too 😉
That is not precise enough
Emanuel Sacriste You dont always have the Choice, so Timing your speed/G-force in each gear can be a good base setup...
We have a dude here in Denmark, normal people might call him a nerd, but car guys call him Jesus 😂 Back in the days, he used a home made contraption with a bicycle wheel, and measured while adjusting fuelmap and ignitionmap on the passenger seat 👍
What you need, is a knocksensor 😊 If your Nodiz not support it, you can buy one with a blinking led or the oldschool way, use a stethoscope with a hose to out to the engine 😉
I believe you can run a bit leaner without problem, but I understand your decision to run safe 😉
Hows your 86 doing, I remember watching restoration few years ago. Remembered ypu by just your profile pic
If you have a vehicle that's a bit newer, you can always get a data logger and pull data from the CAN bus. Things like fueling, ignition advance, knock events (ignition retard,) and so on can be recorded to a computer and analyzed later. For things like cam timing, you can compare mass airflow between runs of different configurations to get an idea if you're improving volumetric efficiency. Ignition timing I think is probably a bit harder to tune without an ECU that lets you do live tuning. AFR that's in a reasonable range doesn't do a whole lot for power, just the longevity of your engine depending on the circumstances. Love your videos man. Keep making the good content!
This thumbnail is the best thumbnail. 😍
The AW11 is gonna snap oversteer me into a tree as revenge for touching it with my butt 😂
Classic blaming the car instead of the driver. ;)
This guy is smart. You don't need a $50k dyno to tune your car. After all, theory is often different than reality.
I wonder what systems you are using for tuning, meaning what software?
2:30 All you need to know.
Exactly!
Great job dude, video was very informative. Thanks for sharing
Interesting and informative. Nice work!!
I did the same conversion to a honda civic Eg 1.3 liter motor. You are luckier because you can read some data, like AFR and like this. To be honest, it is very difficult to make them working 100% properly! Just have in mind, that i am running carbs from a Yamaha XJ600 51j totally stock, idle jets, main jets. Without the original air filter, it is impossible to create the vaccum that they want to work properly. If you want to run your carbs like you have them, no airfilter, you must heavily modify your carbs, -difficult if no experience, like my case-. I spent 2 years of testing an modifying the carbs, air boxes, inlet manifolds, air fuel ratio, and also to make the car passes the emmision test! If you want any kind of help to your project, just mail me!
Hey man, thanks a lot for your offer! I really appreciate it, sounds like you have a lot of experience and I would love to talk details. I do have an air filter on them. It's a pipercross filter, you can see it on many of my other vids. Where can I find your email?
Love this. Truth is, there are a dozen ways our eyes, ears, butts, hands can percieve & interpret engine performance. This is lost wisdom. 🤫
OMG that sound is so addictive
Such a helpful video, keep it up!
Yeeeeeaaaaah boii another MR2 vid!
Excellent work sir!
Dude, you are so funny haha. Super helpful video, too
Great video bro!
You look a little like pewdiepie hahaha great video
Hahaha... Yeah from a certain angle maybe. I'm also just as popular :)
Butt dyno's makes the magic numbers !!! 🤣🤣
Great video
Why are your target AFRs so rich? They seem more appropriate for protecting a boosted engine from knock rather than a high revving N/A engine? I’m sure you did this for a purpose so, if you don’t mind me asking, what was that purpose?
So you still have your air jets open?
Yes
Awesome vid. Can't wait to see the dyno vid! Im thinkin 13X hp
Its going to be choochin when shes dialed in!
@Driving 4 Answers @Everybody -
I'm having an issue with my 350Z.
Stationary, Engine On, Neutral, Foot off clutch = vibrating/tapping
Stationary, Engine On, Neutral, Rev = vibrating/tapping gets slightly faster
Stationary, Engine On, Neutral, Press clutch in = Vibrating/tapping STOPS
Driving, any gear, foot off clutch = vibrating/tapping
Driving, any gear, Press clutch in = vibrating/tapping STOPS - as soon as I release clutch, it starts again.
Any ideas?
Hmmm... Seems to be something to do with the clutch....
:)
This is just a guess and everything will be a guess until you take it apart or have it checked. I would suspect the clutch pressure plate or maybe even the flywheel if it's dual mass (is it? I don't know the 350z that well). Is it hard to get the car to take off normally from a stand still.
@@d4a nope - the car accelerates fine from a standstill
@@d4a yeah - im no mechanic but - i really dont know what to do with a mechanic... do they charge to have a look etc? thanks for your input!
So likely the plate isn't too worn if it takes of easy
You really can't avoid talking it to a mechanic one way or another. A decent mechanic will likely not give you a definitive diagnosis until he does a thorough check. Just driving the car around can reveal a lot but it will never be a 100% accurate diagnosis until the car is put on a lift and properly inspected, and yes a mechanic will charge for that because he is taking his time to check it and we are all paid for our time.
at the flywheel lul
my guess will be 147 whp
Lol I wish 😂
That's hot, that's HOT!
hahaha who needs a time stamp XD
BUTT how much hp will it have after the dino butt?
I wagered my reputation at the end you will see :)
The but dyno is the best if your broke. Lol.😅
Butt*
You’re*
"im gonna make you feel real good baby" XD
Vw part's 🙄😏😏
I disagree... the 4AGE isnt a low power engine considering its a 1.6. Name me a 1.6 that makes 160-190hp N/A. There's really only the B16... after that, they all went fucking turbo. This is a low displacement race engine... that's what I would call it. Same way a 2-stroke 300cc is still a race engine.
99.99% of 16v 4A-GEs don’t make anywhere near those power levels. Neither do the vast majority of 20v engines. The 4A-GZE engines will barely make that at the crank but will be much lower on the dyno measured at the wheels.
I’m not sure what you’re talking about unless you’re talking about the very few fully built N/A engines with days of precise porting and 7A-FE stock-stroker bottom ends out there.
@@negativeindustrial 4AGEs are only meta because of their ease in power increase. Same reason people buy Honda engines or Nissan engines... only difference is a C16 or a D16 have less aftermarket support for N/A performance. And no, the top figure, being 190hp, is totally reachable especially on the 20v 4AGE models thanks to their very genius design with an exhaust or cam tune. If the point of the video is how to tune a 4AGE, then I dont think it's fair to call it a low power engine at its specs. That's all I'm saying tbh. And no, considering 4AGEs are hobbyist engines here in N/A, most kids modify them extensively and give them at least a 30% hp upgrade with aftermarket support imo... there's a larger community of 4AGE tuners than you'd think. I'll be chilling with my BP in the meantime
1:07 a road tuned car can not be better than a dyno tuned one, there is no way to find the optimal ignition advance (MBT) without a dyno
Did I say it can be better? I said that it can FEEL better on the street. Please don't twist my words.
@@d4a 1:01 you said: "it can be just as good or even better"
I liked the video though, I would only point out that it will be a good idea to check the spark plugs after tuning the ignition just to be sure the engine is not knocking and also trying to hear if knock is happening
@@slowvag8v Yes, but that's taking it out of context.
@@slowvag8v Yeah, that is a good idea probably. I ran out of video time, there's a million things more to be said here, and cramming it all into one video is a bit hard.
Who cares about hp if you need torque to get off thr line and keep moving. Young snowflake new generation people haven't got a clue .
No yeah butt dinos are basic. REAL mechanics can feel the exact moment of gear engagement in a manual transmission using only the shift lever n' their anus..... which is why I went became a chemist