All of the handlebar tips in this and other videos are MUST SEE. I didn't know how simple rotations and lever positioning could improve the "feel" of the reach. Reduced fatigue and pain on long rides considerably.
I bought a Trek with a frame I'm convinced was (and is) the right size but the reach does feel a little long... It's all starting to make sense! (I know, I know - get a bike fit!)
i went from a Pinarello F4:13 to Orbea M20, in this I went from from quick release with rim brakes to through-axle with brake discs. WOW what an improvement when removing the wheel
when checking headsets by 'rocking' on a bike with disc brakes it's good practice to turn the handlebars 90 degrees left or right. This means there won't be any pad movement so you can tell more easily if the headset's right or not.
Your tips are very good for they are tips that one has to do often over time and make your rides safer. I think of them as every day checks before you ride.
Thanks for the pedal tension tip - a couple of months too late.... Got a pair of Rally XC conversions for my Vector pedals (ordered in March, delivered in August) and after fitting them could not get my foot unclipped. Eventually had to undo my shoe to get off the bike and remove the pedal from the bike to separate it from the cleat! Tension then fully unwound and they were still a little tight for a while....
Can James talk about speed/power/gradient and it’s affect on the comfortability of different positions? I can take a ton of reach and drop when I’m at threshold, but running an aggressive position doing Zone 2 is almost unbearable.
Idea What if you do a bike fit Tuesday segment where you have subscribers submit their bike builds track/road/TT etc Then have James recommend 1 adjustment like sadle fore/height or other tips for the setup
Always appreciate the daily uploads man, about to buy a new bike from Merida, Merida Reacto Force to be exact, soon so its always nice to be reminded of what you should check. Much love from South Korea 🇰🇷
Can you ask James, if he were starting from scratch, today, hoping to become a qualified (and good) bikefitter, how would he go about doing it? I know the IBFI does courses, but are these the best way of doing it?
I’m enjoying the bike so far czcams.com/users/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA My only real complaints are the brakes and the pedals. I feel like a bike designed for bigger people should have much larger pedals and more heavy duty brakes. I’ve only gotten two really good rides out of it, minimal downhill action, and the brakes feel like they’re already going out. A larger person has more momentum, so I think this wasn’t thought through very well. Also, I wear size 13-14 wide shoes. My feet cramp up on these pedals that are clearly made for smaller feet. Since I’m not a pro rider (and I don’t think many are who purchase this bike) I don’t think that the straps on the pedal are necessary at all. None of this takes away from the enjoyment I get from riding, however. I’ll just head to a bike shop to improve on a few things.
considering both stems on the positive position, will a shorter stem say 70 or 80mm +7 (lower but less reach) feel more comfortable than a longer stem say 90mm +7(higher but further)? :D
Hi, I have a quick question. James talks about how to set up your bars, but this seems to only be applicable for bikes with groupsets and bars from the last couple of years. I have a bike with shimano tiagra 4600, so this bike is from about 2008, and I can't find a good spot for my bars and shifters to be in. It doesn't seem possible to set it up all level as James suggests. Does anyone have any tips to set up bars and shifters from around 2010? Thanks.
Hi James, I had a great bike fit, no problems, I changed my saddle, from power arc to the Tune Skyracer, the measurements are different and I cant get the same distance on the new one, I have it maxed out to front of the rails but I,m getting 2 cm short from the distance I used to have, I raised the saddle to get my initial measurement, but now it hurts on my pes anserine area. Any ideas of what I can do. My original fitter left the country due the pandemic.
For the sake of comfort, go for 42. If you think your body can handle it and a qualified bike fitter approves it, you can go for 40. My shoulders measure 39 cm wide and I currently ride with 40 cm handlebars. I've tried 38 before, but I felt more at home with 40. Even the bike fitter I went to deemed 38 as too narrow for me after viewing my body profile.
@@barryford7135 It's good for your wrists actually as they don't have to rotate as much as when the hoods are parallel to the ground. I've been setting bikes up like this since a few months back, including mine after I find it to be more comfortable when test-riding other bikes with the same setup.
Are we allowed to say "female nut" today??? haha I like the skewers that are tightened with an allen key...no-one can quick release them and walk away with them...and they are lighter...
All of the handlebar tips in this and other videos are MUST SEE. I didn't know how simple rotations and lever positioning could improve the "feel" of the reach. Reduced fatigue and pain on long rides considerably.
I bought a Trek with a frame I'm convinced was (and is) the right size but the reach does feel a little long... It's all starting to make sense! (I know, I know - get a bike fit!)
The reach on the trek bars is 95 or 100mm you can get ones with 75mm such as FSA or zipp
Get a specialized short reach or, deda or pro. I personally think that the specialized One Is the shortest reach handlebar I ever seen, I own one.
Yeah right… it’s the same as bespoke suits - they will surely fit much better but who has the time and money for that?!
@@fredericopereira6444 It cost 40 bucks
@@st3ange21 shit, sounds like good deal. I thought it was way more expensive...
Picking my new bike up from James in the next couple of weeks, glad he’s up to speed with tightening his nuts 😂👍
This was the best “bike fit James” vid in ages. Bike parts and anatomy. Nice to see James behind camera. Taking it in turns.
Don’t mean James is crap lol
i went from a Pinarello F4:13 to Orbea M20, in this I went from from quick release with rim brakes to through-axle with brake discs. WOW what an improvement when removing the wheel
Very sounds tips as always. Glad you've gotten back to London recently to see James (aka Future Dad).
Your advice on quick releases is something that I wish I learned earlier in cycling. Something so simple but honestly so essential to know 😂😂
Agree with you re the reach on Treks. My Trek madone is currently giving me tricep pain after only an hour! Most likely due to too long a reach.
I swapped my stock 40cm Bontrager handlebar for a 38cm Deda drop bar and it was like a new bike
@@MannBazza deda width is measured from outside so they are a size narrower than other brands, just be aware of this
when checking headsets by 'rocking' on a bike with disc brakes it's good practice to turn the handlebars 90 degrees left or right. This means there won't be any pad movement so you can tell more easily if the headset's right or not.
As a small guy, your videos always helped especially the previous one for the shorter type hahahah
Your tips are very good for they are tips that one has to do often over time and make your rides safer. I think of them as every day checks before you ride.
Francis the bike fitter 😂 go on laad x
Good summary - and of course a pro grade torque wrench can be used for hitting poor quality bike fitters... :)
QR skewers should point rearwards because AERO!
Thanks for the pedal tension tip - a couple of months too late.... Got a pair of Rally XC conversions for my Vector pedals (ordered in March, delivered in August) and after fitting them could not get my foot unclipped. Eventually had to undo my shoe to get off the bike and remove the pedal from the bike to separate it from the cleat! Tension then fully unwound and they were still a little tight for a while....
Can James talk about speed/power/gradient and it’s affect on the comfortability of different positions? I can take a ton of reach and drop when I’m at threshold, but running an aggressive position doing Zone 2 is almost unbearable.
Quick Release
Tips Finally!!
Just got a PX EC-130E and have been very nervous about how to put the bars on etc .. This is a fantastic video so thank you very much indeed 👍
More useful tips, I did wonder what was used now for carbon steerer tubes.👍
Look at that wow
Great video and good to see some torque control for those critical bolting applications 👍
Thanks for the headset tip, got mine all sorted now
Oh cool bike setup
oh hi
Idea
What if you do a bike fit Tuesday segment where you have subscribers submit their bike builds track/road/TT etc
Then have James recommend 1 adjustment like sadle fore/height or other tips for the setup
I never knew you could adjust the lever reach! Thanks!
Newer Shimano STI levers are capable of this, older ones need shims.
Could you do a video of how to setup for a cross country XC race bike?
Super useful video! Proper bike consumer stuff 👌🏻
Always appreciate the daily uploads man, about to buy a new bike from Merida, Merida Reacto Force to be exact, soon so its always nice to be reminded of what you should check. Much love from South Korea 🇰🇷
👋
Can you ask James, if he were starting from scratch, today, hoping to become a qualified (and good) bikefitter, how would he go about doing it? I know the IBFI does courses, but are these the best way of doing it?
Excellent as always👌🏻
Thanks for the tips, wish I could get a fitting from James although it might be a bit too pricey to fly over the pond for it.
You wouldn’t be the first though
Great video guys.
Very good and useful video.
Love the specificity, wouldn't want to tighten the male nut.
Some great top tips 👌
Great video and nice bike (silver).
I’m enjoying the bike so far czcams.com/users/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA My only real complaints are the brakes and the pedals. I feel like a bike designed for bigger people should have much larger pedals and more heavy duty brakes. I’ve only gotten two really good rides out of it, minimal downhill action, and the brakes feel like they’re already going out. A larger person has more momentum, so I think this wasn’t thought through very well. Also, I wear size 13-14 wide shoes. My feet cramp up on these pedals that are clearly made for smaller feet. Since I’m not a pro rider (and I don’t think many are who purchase this bike) I don’t think that the straps on the pedal are necessary at all. None of this takes away from the enjoyment I get from riding, however. I’ll just head to a bike shop to improve on a few things.
considering both stems on the positive position, will a shorter stem say 70 or 80mm +7 (lower but less reach) feel more comfortable than a longer stem say 90mm +7(higher but further)? :D
Not necessarily, but generally excessive reach is a more common of a problem than insufficient reach.
Quick release on the wheels?
Any tips on setting up an MTB hardtail or full suspension?
GMBN has some good videos I've watched to setup a new bike or things to look out for on a mountain bike specifically.
Hi, I have a quick question.
James talks about how to set up your bars, but this seems to only be applicable for bikes with groupsets and bars from the last couple of years. I have a bike with shimano tiagra 4600, so this bike is from about 2008, and I can't find a good spot for my bars and shifters to be in. It doesn't seem possible to set it up all level as James suggests. Does anyone have any tips to set up bars and shifters from around 2010?
Thanks.
Hi James, I had a great bike fit, no problems, I changed my saddle, from power arc to the Tune Skyracer, the measurements are different and I cant get the same distance on the new one, I have it maxed out to front of the rails but I,m getting 2 cm short from the distance I used to have, I raised the saddle to get my initial measurement, but now it hurts on my pes anserine area. Any ideas of what I can do. My original fitter left the country due the pandemic.
when your shoulder width is 41 cm should yo go for a 40 cm or a 42 cm bar
For the sake of comfort, go for 42. If you think your body can handle it and a qualified bike fitter approves it, you can go for 40.
My shoulders measure 39 cm wide and I currently ride with 40 cm handlebars. I've tried 38 before, but I felt more at home with 40. Even the bike fitter I went to deemed 38 as too narrow for me after viewing my body profile.
Keep up the awesome content ;- )
Independent Fabrications btw
I have a Trek. James know wtf he is talking about
I like my bars tipped up a bit, so that blows the first part of the video out of the water?
No, it just means you like your bars tipped up a bit
@@Cade_Media like a lot of people?
@@barryford7135 It's good for your wrists actually as they don't have to rotate as much as when the hoods are parallel to the ground.
I've been setting bikes up like this since a few months back, including mine after I find it to be more comfortable when test-riding other bikes with the same setup.
Indyfabulous……
I think we are all familiar with the bubble James. I thought you dabble with precision here.
I’m not sure a beginner should be doing a lot of these changes out of the box
Are we allowed to say "female nut" today??? haha I like the skewers that are tightened with an allen key...no-one can quick release them and walk away with them...and they are lighter...
* Ribble CGR steel 105 incoming *
Last🔨
Kinde useless für me because my handlebars are not that weirdly shaped
Hellooo
hello!