2016 Ford F150 VCT Solenoid Replacement
Vložit
- čas přidán 29. 08. 2024
- Please Subscribe!
The purpose of this video is to give viewers a little insight on one way to change the vct solenoids on a Ford 5.0L engine. This is the way that i replaced them. Hopefully this video is useful to someone. Please like the video if you found it useful and leave a comment down below!
I want to thank you guys for putting this video out there. I think this is the first true video on my 2016 f150 that actually goes into detail. Thanks again.
Thank you for watching and I'm glad that it made a difference for you!
Hey man I just want to thank you guys for putting this video out here. I have a 2016 F-150 5.0. In the summer I had experienced the rough idle, occasional stalls when in idle or park, engine was a bit noisy kind of like a diesel. It took a while before the check engine light finally came on and sure enough code P0022, which indicated an issue with the camshaft timing for bank 2. So I watched this video step by step and replaced both VVT solenoids. Bam!! the problem went away.
About 2 weeks ago I noticed the same problems I was having before in the summer, occasional stalls, rough idle intermittently, today was probably the worst. No check engine light. I examined the VVT solenoids I replaced and noticed one of them is leaking oil internally. I have two suspicions. ONE, worst case scenario: is that maybe the CAM Phasers are causing the solenoids to go bad, I hope not because that's a huge job and I don't know if I'm skilled enough for a job like that ,also its very expensive. TWO, best case scenario: I just happened to buy a lemon solenoid from advanced auto parts that's leaking oil and it needs to be replaced again. Is there a way I can tell if it's the cam phasers once the valve cover is removed? I plan on removing the valve cover tomorrow and replacing the solenoids again. Thanks again and sorry for writing a book. Really appreciate all your help!
😢k.p. o😅or😅😅4rt😮are are 88😅 hij 😅hi iIy
Hey man, what is the latest with your truck after having the VCT's replaced? I got mine replaced at about 170,000 and it was great for about 5,000 miles and now it's coming on intermediately and getting worse it seems like (now at 185,000). Curious if there are any other fixes for it?
@@danielbudke2748 yea man I ended up replacing all 4 vvt solenoids (ford oem) and started using 10-30 oil and she’s been purring for the last 15k miles perfectly.
@@andrewshah10what all did you buy? 4 solenoids and 2 gasket covers?
@@seandunks3526that's how I think I'm going to do it personally. There's a way to diagnose which bank is giving you problems but personally, my truck has 200k miles on the original solenoids so I figured might as well replace them all and the gaskets
For all the half ass mtfs who make useless videos with tag "How to remove the valve cover" WATCH THIS VIDEO! This is how you do it,you the man!. Excellent video,there ain't too many of us left anymore
That pry method on the coil packs is a surefire way to break them. It is a pain but best to pull by hand with even pressure and hope it pops. I broke 2 using that exact pry method so be careful.
Dip Stick Tube Removal Advice - Unplug Engine Oil Cap to allow air to escape and then twist dip stick tube to the left. You’ll see how easy it is to remove now. The trapped air created positive pressure.
It’s not positive pressure. There’s a tab at the bottom of the yellow tube that needs to be pushed inwards so you can twist it.
I tried that aint working
Use a mirror and a small flathead, like the snap on tiny one w the pocket clip they give for Xmas, and you can get at that tab pretty good
The oil dipstick tube twist into the valve cover. Just grap it with some needle nose pliers and twist to the left and it will unscrew.....then just pull it out.
Thanks for the reply!
This was the best advice everyone else said push down but this was accurate
To remove oil stick tube push flat yellow part in and rotate a little counterclockwise and remove tube. Reinstall clockwise
Ahhh not all heroes wear capes!! Thank you
thats a clean camshaft area, looks like u keep up with the maintenance
I highly recommend just replacing all 4 solenoids, both driver and passenger sides.
Great video, about to change all 4 on a 17 F150. Engine idles rough when at a red light and check engine comes on and off. Hooked it up to my scanner and that's what it looks like is causing the issue.
Did it fix your issue???
@@Mike940D it did. It runs perfectly now I changed all 4 VCT Solenoids and all spark plugs as well
Thanks for the quick reply, I’m showing 28 degrees over retarded on intake bank 2 in forscan, what was your scanner showing. I have the same issues as you and occasionally will stall, symptoms come and go
@@Mike940D don’t remember the exact code but it sounds like the same issue. You can find the VCT solenoids online for a good price.
Same thing is happening to my fathers truck now.. has 80k on it...a p0022 code..and got the parts to fix it now...How did the plugs come out were they a pain?
Well i got some good news and bad news for ya boys... I bought all new VCT solenoids and new camshaft position sensor for intake bank 2. Replaced the sensor first before having to get into the VCTs... good news, truck hasn’t stalled since and idles better and drives much better... bad news, fuck me is it ever in a tight spot at the back of the engine... need baby hands... and doing it all by feel... use a scan tool or forscan or obdlink, when your truck starts acting up, watch the VCT diff PID (difference between actual degrees and demanded)... if both intake and exhaust are off wack on one bank (not close to zero for difference or error) you may be dealing with stretched chain on that side or skip tooth for timing... not as common on these 5.0 as they are on 5.4... both banks off, you make have bigger issues with cam phasers and timing chains. If only one is acting up on one bank, change that Camshaft position sensor first, even if doesn’t throw a code and even if it’s just intermittent rough idle or stalling, can just be a cam shaft sensor reading wrong and throwing everything into chaos. Used a spectra brand sensor and so far so good... use those PIDs to your advantage..
In my case, intake bank 2 was over retarded at idle. Checked the VCT ERR or DIFF PID, when it was acting up it ran up 40 degrees off what was desired... cheap start and less headache to try a sensor first so I did. I’ll update if shit hits the fan again. Best of luck to everyone
Really great video! Everything was well explained and well covered!
Just finished doing all 4 vcr solenoids. The drivers side isn't that difficult, the passenger side on the other hand.....is a little more difficult. I would suggest taking the wheel fender lining out for the passenger side, it makes reaching the ground bolt and wire clips much easier. I will give an update after a few days to see if my truck stalls .
I forgot to mention the ground strap. Thanks for adding that info! And thanks for keeping me updated!
Any update on whether or not it’s stalling?
@@codyholder8461 so far it seems to have fixed the problem. Truck has been running good.
@@zippermorbid how long did it take you and where did you buy them from?
@@nite82hawk got them off Amazon because Ford didn't have them. It took 3 of us about5 hours to do it. Do yourself a favor and take both front tires and wheel wells out. It's much easier to get to the back boots from inside the wheel well
Wow, thanks for this. Amazing tutorial
Also, these are pos plastic parts. Ford makes a gt500 cover that fits these out of aluminum to avoid this repeat issue and oil leaks.
Great video! Thanks for making it. Just curious how many km’s were on this motor?
Well I guess I have the exact same problem! I'm too old and fat to go crawling around up under my hood! I have 105,000 kms on my 2016 5 litre and exact same symptons. Rough idle after the truck warms up and occasional stalling. When the truck is warm these symptoms are continuous although the check engine light is intermittent! Not every time I start the truck. Same code someone else mentions below P0022. My ford dealer wants $3300 plus tax to do this job but they mentioned solenoids and chain so maybe they are doing it all! My warranty was 5 year and 100,000 kilos so of course I just missed it! I will probably need new brakes as well because coming through Montreal in stop and go traffic for miles I had one foot lightly on the gas and one foot on the brake. Now my brakes are pulsing. I was going to call Ford Canada and bitch because it's looking like a pretty common problem but I may do something more productive and rearrange my paper clip drawer! Thanks for the video though because it helps me understand just what they are doing.
Thank you so much, but I cant find which side "Bank 1" is on drivers side or passenger?
Bank 1 should be the passengers side
@@patrickharvey7351 Awesome. Thank you.
@@patrickharvey7351 is the one on the bottom on the passanger side right?
Great video! Would love to hear an update from you if this has still been a good fix for the rough idle or if it has come back over time?
It is still running great!
Is there any noise associated with VCT failure on the 5.0? I have had a couple stalls. But now have a light throttle low RPM occasional kinda clacking noise sounds like detonation but have played with better fuel and have not heard any change.
The 8 mm flange nut and stud on top of the 10 mm valve cover bolt is a problem. It is the most time-consuming part of the job. I needed to access the nut through the wheel well after removing the skirt, and I used vice grips on the stud threats to loosen the bolt, then disconnect the other end of the earth wire/ground wire from the firewall, then twist the valve cover bolt with 8 mm flange nut and wire end all attached. Had to replace it in reverse fashion, all connected and looking stupid. Tightened it down good and no leaks. Code went away. Driver side, Bank 2. The "earth wire" has a number on the label, "19A095". Also, "S081H." I would like to buy a new 10 mm valve cover bolt with the stupid 8 mm flange nut on stud top so it looks right, and I might have less of a problem the next time if there is one. Does anyone know how to ask for this part? I can't find it. Just the wire itself comes up in my Internet search. Thanks
Thanks for the video! My 16 5.0 idles rough then stalls about once a day for past couple weeks but hasn't thrown a code? I'm thinking the same issue? Just not positive without DTC's!
Just let me know if there is anything that I can explain!
I think it will be the same issue. My truck does the same thing it’s a 2016 f150 5.0 and it misfires slightly at idle, occasionally rough idles bad at idle and has begun stalling every now and then at red lights
Well i got some good news and bad news for ya boys... I bought all new VCT solenoids and new camshaft position sensor for intake bank 2. Replaced the sensor first before having to get into the VCTs... good news, truck hasn’t stalled since and idles better and drives much better... bad news, fuck me is it ever in a tight spot at the back of the engine... need baby hands... and doing it all by feel... use a scan tool or forscan or obdlink, when your truck starts acting up, watch the VCT diff PID (difference between actual degrees and demanded)... if both intake and exhaust are off wack on one bank (not close to zero for difference or error) you may be dealing with stretched chain on that side or skip tooth for timing... not as common on these 5.0 as they are on 5.4... both banks off, you make have bigger issues with cam phasers and timing chains. If only one is acting up on one bank, change that Camshaft position sensor first, even if doesn’t throw a code and even if it’s just intermittent rough idle or stalling, can just be a cam shaft sensor reading wrong and throwing everything into chaos. Used a spectra brand sensor and so far so good... use those PIDs to your advantage..
In my case, intake bank 2 was over retarded at idle. Checked the VCT ERR or DIFF PID, when it was acting up it ran up 40 degrees off what was desired... cheap start and less headache to try a sensor first so I did. I’ll update if shit hits the fan again. Best of luck to everyone
@@LA-TEEZI has the original problem remained fixed ever since with just the camshaft position sensor alone? Or have you since had the same rough idle/stalling symptoms return?
@@zachaustin9126 hi Zach, no the stalling came back… so I replaced the VCT solenoids on that bank 2 and all has been well since, no more stalling, drives better too… and I put back the original Camshaft sensor too. What issues are you having? Have you scanned the truck? Any codes? Checked mode 6?
Between these and the coolant temp sensors that go bad, ive only been stranded 3hrs from home twice!
I'm getting ready to do all 4 vct solenoids. My rough idle is constant and will stall 50% of the time. This will be the last thing I know of to fix this issue because the truck has no codes. I have replaced the purge valve sensor, sparkplugs, coil packs, map sensor, and the fuel pump driver module. Truck still has the same rough idle and stalling. I hope this fixes it.
Forgot about the throttle body, done that too.
Thanks for the comment! Let comment back on here and let me know if it fixes it! Best of luck
Working on the truck tomorrow morning, I'll let you what happens. Thanks.
@@zippermorbid hi any updates?
I’ve cleaned the throttle body on my 16 f150 5.0 and replaced my fuel pump driver module and mine still does this crap
Thank you!
You are welcome! I promise more videos are coming. If you liked the video, please subscribe!
Can you please make a video on how to remove the dipstick tube? I I’m in need of replacing the solenoids as well and don’t want to break it.
Thanks for the comment. Yes, I will make a video next week and upload it for you.
@@patrickharvey7351 thank you sir! If possible I forgot to mention if you could show us how to do the other side as well! I got all 4 solenoids and got the valve cover gasket set ready to be used haha
No problem! Thanks for taking the time to watch my video. The other side is the same process as the driver's side, with the exception of the two heater hoses that are in the way. They are quick connects (shown at the very end of the video), which you just squeeze the tabs together then while still squeezing, pull the hose off of the quick connect. Sometimes they can be a little difficult to remove, but you can do it no problem!
What mileage did you have to change them
This video is very helpful thank you gives me confidence to handle this job possibly my self !
I believe this truck had 80k miles when we replaced them. Thanks for the kind words! If you liked the video, please subscribe! I'm working on making more videos and let everyone know about my channel
@@patrickharvey7351 irony. Mine started this at 84k miles. Got the HD version from Ford. I suspected my mods having to do with the failure. Truck has a bad intake with the broken shaft in the internal valves. So went with a 2020 GT intake and a tune. Truck shifts are 7k rpm now. You think the extra 1000+ rpm on the high end could or caused it? I’m a pushrod guy and don’t know these engines well. I figured the better hd ones would be favorable with the extra revs.
Also about to start the replacement and going through your video again before doing so. Thank you for the video.
Mine started right after the extended maintenance warranty at 76-80k with 1-2 other occasions where it rough idled before then
Mine has started at 75k
88k for mine.
Dip stick tube screws part the pay out
Is it required to drail all the oil first? Been having this problem since i got the truck at 98k. Im at 142k now and been putting off doing it cause the shop wants $1400 to do it. It looks so easy
Thanks for this. It’s the first video on you tube for this replacement. My 2016 5.0 is intermittently idling rough and has occasionally stalled. I think I need to replace my VCT solenoids. Do you know which side usually causes this problem? - I’m just wondering if I could safe some work and start by just changing one side.
Thanks for the comment! The driver's side is the side that went bad on this one. We had the same symptoms you have.
Thanks for the reply... BTW. Very high quality video and thanks for sharing it!
@@duaneheslinga1406 was it drivers side
@@justingill5256 I haven’t changed any of them yet. I’ve been nursing them along by ensuring oil is always topped up ( even a little on the high side), changing the oil more after (at 50%) and occasional use of seafoam. It helps. But I’ll have to bite the bullet eventually.
@@duaneheslinga1406 Same here changing the oil early seems to help on mine running synthetic gonna try 5w30 now
Torque the VCT bolts to 27lbs! (at least that's what I did after reading the info in a forum). There was a fair amount of info saying 70-ish lbs-ft. ...I sheared 2 bolts trying to do that. If you got your VCTs from Summit Racing like I did, definitely don't do that.
70 inch lbs not ft lbs
How do you remove the dipstick tube? I'm working on a 2017 . Please let us know ! CHEERS!!
I have a 2014 f150 fx4 5.0 with a rough idle but no stalling I have multiple codes p0305 p0308 and p0300 I replaced plugs coils injectors and intake gaskets. Would my vcts be causing this or could it be something els please help!
Great video, Anyone knows the vct bolt torques?
i thought you had to install the vct solenoids with the pins in the in position.. does it matter?
I have a 2016 F150 with a 5.0. It only has 39k miles on it. But I’m getting rough idle and stalling at times. Check engine light comes on at times also. Sounds like this VCT could be the issue. Thoughts?
These were the same symptoms that we had with the vehicle in the video. It was intermittent, though.
My 2016 Mustang 5.0 did the same thing at 40k miles. Changed VCT's and it fixed the problem. You're hunting the right rabbit.
2016 F150 5.0 @ 64K miles…exact same symptoms…In the process of changing all 4 out along with spark plugs…
What symptoms accur if VCT are not working....mine have been replaced?
I have a 2016 F150. How do you know when to change the VCT solenoid? Do I wait for the code to appear, or is it written to change them perodically? I have 140,000 on the truck. Thanks for responding back. THUMBS UP!!!!!
These were replaced because the code appeared
If the seal on the vct selenoid leaks will the electrical connector be gushing out oil
I have a 2016 F150 5.0 and I’m pulling the P0012 code on bank 1. Is bank 1 on the driver side or passenger side?
i think passanger side
hey just wondering, did replacing the vct solenoids fix your p0012 code on your f150?
How do you remove the oil dipstick tube?
I’m about to do this on my truck, are the solenoids plug and play or do you have to calibrate them in any way?
They are plug and play
How did you know that the solenoids need to be changed?
Is this what is making the chain sound on cold starts when you let off the gas pedal?
What is the part number for the valve cover gasket
Can you change the gasket for the vct I'm getting little oil around the outside on the passenger side
Use the Ford performance VCT solenoids. They're $100 a set of for from CJ
Anyone doing this job will want to follow Ford service bulletin 19-2309 unless you want leaks.
This bulletin is for the Mustang with metal valve covers.not the plastic ones for the F150
2016 ford f150 5.0 shot a p022 bank 2 code im thinking might be vct solenoid
Would this be a same process for 2017 Ford F-150 5.0?
Yep!
Do you have the link to the valve gasket
hi i did everything just like this and my truck began to show the check engine light and code p0022? they were new , any idea what I couldve done wrong?
What’s the torque spec for the solenoids?
Its a two step torque sequence. First, torque them to 71lb. in (8Nm), then torque them an additional 20 degrees. Hope this helps!
I have a problem no check engine light, if WOT engine losing power. ?
Do you have a rough idea what this repair would cost me in Canadian dollars for all 4 solenoids?
$200 from ford
How long does it take to make this repair?
Which side is bank 1 or bank 2 on these engines mine has a p0022 bank 2
Thank you, do you have part numbers for the vct and gaskets?
I dont
whats the torq on the solonoid bolts?
Did you find out?
Is this the same as the 2020 5.0
What was the torque specs on the solenoids?
8 Nm + 30 degrees OR 70 inch lbs + 30 degrees
How much does this job cost?
So what you're saying is, that if someone has trouble changing out windshield wipers, they should not attempt this. lol
What issue was occurring that made you do this repair?
p0012 code intake (a) camshaft position timing - over-retarded (bank 1)
My mustang ecoboost has a bigger intake then that 😂 wow!!!!