Really great stuff. I have a 77 xs650 that hasn't been on the road in 15 years. I plan to ride it this summer. Your channel is exactly what I need to do that. Thanks for the videos.
I've been watching all of your videos as a guide to working on my '81 xs650. They've all been incredibly helpful, so thanks a lot for taking the time to make these tutorials ✌️
Another superb video..... its great to be able to learn from someone with so much knowledge and experience..... As we say here in Scotland, lang may yer lum reek
This is an incredible find! You have an identical timing unit to the bike I just purchased - do you remember what the brand or model is of that ignition? I'm currently troubleshooting a bike that won't start. It'll backfire on occasion but refuses to run even a little bit. Tons of incredibly detailed information here, thanks so much for making these. I know I'll be referencing a lot of them moving forward as I wrench on the bike more. Cheers!
@@outlaw86custom got two xs650s working on currently about to do timing on a new ignition system on one , the other one just needs wired up. Def going to use that dead cylinder technique thank you 🙏
Hey I got an issue with my rear wheel , I’ve checked my bearings and they do need replacement and I’ve got some ordered. But also just when I naturally trying to tighten up my axle bolt the tensioner starts to turn with it and it won’t even tighten up. This is a 75. I have another one that’s an 81 , well I put the wheel back on the 81 and the bolt just tightens right up and doesn’t affect the tensioner as my past few did. But this 75 is just not letting me tighten the bolt. Would the bearings affect that ? Or do I need to go deeper ?
@@outlaw86custom yeah you can hand tighten the axle bolt all the way down seems to be all in working order even used my 81 axle nut to test it and got same results the bolt like hits a dead stop at 50 lbs and the tensioner starts turning with it and even if I hold the tensioner and force it to tighten up it still doesn’t hold the wheel in place really at all . Bearings and a spacer kit ya think ? And also on a drum brake style rear wheel set up on the side that holds the brake stuff. If you take that side apart and take off the hub on that side ; have you ever heard of a spacer being there in the little hole that has a seal and bearing there purpose seeming to me to keep the hub from being pulled by wheel. On my 81 the hub naturally won’t go all the way down keeping it free from wheel pull , but on the 75 it has what looks exactly like a spacer in between the hub and the axle hole to keep it free spinning. If I don’t use it I’ve got a huge gap and the hub sticks right too the assembly and moves with wheel. Ever seen that or heard of that
Sir i am curious what you prefer for an ignition system. My factory TCI sensor went out and i am looking at different systems what in your opinion is the best?
I like points just because that's what I have used for many years. But to replace the factory TCI you could go with Mike's xs ignition system or a Huges hand build but I still run the manual advance unless you're going to race the bike just my $0.02. Miyagi
Hey love this channel what a great feed of info... I'm having an issue with my 1980 special carbs have complety be cleaned put back on the bike air/fuel mixture is at 2/1/2 turns out right cylinder is not firing tried the spark plug switch also the wire switch still the same can you please help I am stuck thanks so much
Are you sure there's actually fuel in the carburetor bowl and I could use a little more information on the engine status like did it run for the carb clean or last valve adjustment , things like that.
@@outlaw86custom hi there thanks so for your reply I found the issue I bought the more expensive plugs and they were faulty never have I come across something like this I went and bought the cheaper ones and the bike came Alive so happy...but I do have another issue I put new left and right gaskets now I have leaks didn't use any kind of bond should I,thanks again
so i bought an XS650 a while ago, it ran fine for a few weeks then i felt a some jerking with the acceleration, i cleaned the carbs and then it stopped running, i bought a pair of VM34s to replace my old carbs but i cant get the damn thing to idle at all, i did mess a bit with these switches at 5:23. any idea whats the best way to get it to idle!? i tried every single jet i got with the vm34s and nothing :(
Well I have a few questions what year is your bike ? What size of old carbs did you have bs38 or bs34 ? and I'm not a real big fan of the vm34s they take too long to adjust.
Seems straightforward in content. Really appreciate the warning with electronic ignition, about plug grounding to save the module from cooking. Glad the old girl twisted right up for you the way she did. Have a great day.
Hello mr Miyagi. I have an 1974 xs ohc electric. After winter storage, it dosn't run smooth now. When i acelerate it coughs and lugs. Do you know what it could bee?
Sounds like you need to clean the carburetors little Jets holes inside maybe plugged that happens when they sit over the winter and you didn't drain the carburetors.... Hope that helps, Miyagi
So, I’ve been told that adjusting these pilot screws will help with the issue that I’m having where my bike will tend to run 3000rpm when the engine is warm and the clutch is engaged (bike in gear). I assume that the screws may be too tight and need to be backed out? Or am I incorrect? Otherwise, when the bike is cold started, it idles very well. The issue only happens when it’s been running a while. I’m pretty sure it’s not an air leak.
Try doing a dead cylinder carburetor adjustment with the pilot to get it to run as option performance. Starting the bike with one spark plug wire removed and adjusting the carburetor on the opposite side do its optimum performance. And then switch to the other side that may help. Thanks for watching
Here link that may help, lots of information: www.xs650.com/threads/motor-timing-with-pamco-electric-ign-tc-bro%E2%80%99s-pma-kit.56555/ thanks for watching.
Mine runs awesome with the chokes down but as soon as I pull them up closed the bike back fires and shuts off. Then if I ride it with them down its popping and sputtering and breaking up. Help mr miyagi your my only hope.
Tim, First off check to see if you have any vacuum leaks like around the manifold or you don't have the vacuum tubes closed off on the manifold. Also the carburetors may need to be cleaned or rebuilt
@@outlaw86custom hey thank you so much. I pulled them apart and cleaned them today. Turned out to be quite easy. It is running way better. The only thing is my carbs are mikuni 38s and they dont have vacuum ports to sync them. Should I drill and tap them to make ports or will I be able to get it rolling if I keep playing with it. I literally know nothing
It's a simple process of moving the tab up and down with The valve intake tab is located. I can't make a video right now of that but I'm sure that there's plenty out there that'll do it. I'm going through heart surgery. Thanks for watching
I found your channel just exploring for xs650 information. What a literal goldmine. I love the content. Thanks for the videos!!
Thanks for watching!
For real! Guy is great 🙌
Really great stuff. I have a 77 xs650 that hasn't been on the road in 15 years. I plan to ride it this summer. Your channel is exactly what I need to do that. Thanks for the videos.
I tuned in for my 77 garage find also. Hasn't been run in some time.
I've been watching all of your videos as a guide to working on my '81 xs650. They've all been incredibly helpful, so thanks a lot for taking the time to make these tutorials ✌️
You are very welcome I'm glad I could help.
I love your videos, learning so much about how to take care of my xs650. Thanks!
I'm glad you like the videos thanks for watching.
As always, very informative 👍👍
Another superb video..... its great to be able to learn from someone with so much knowledge and experience.....
As we say here in Scotland, lang may yer lum reek
Thank you, that means a lot.
Just what I needed.
Great video!
Excellent reference. Many thanks for this. I’ve got a ‘78 bobber project that just needs a bit more precision as shown here.
Thanks for watching
Very helpful, thank you.
Thank you so much for your videos my friend, very informative and easy to understand!
thanks for the great tuning tutorial, great content!!!
Thanks you and thanks for watching
This is an incredible find! You have an identical timing unit to the bike I just purchased - do you remember what the brand or model is of that ignition? I'm currently troubleshooting a bike that won't start. It'll backfire on occasion but refuses to run even a little bit.
Tons of incredibly detailed information here, thanks so much for making these. I know I'll be referencing a lot of them moving forward as I wrench on the bike more. Cheers!
Just read a previous comment - I hope your surgery was successful and all is well! Take care.
Pamco ignition but I don't think the company is around any more.
You are awesome 👏 watch all your distance rides , Badass ! I have 79 scrambler xs
Hopefully there will be more distance riding videos .
Thanks for watching.
@@outlaw86custom got two xs650s working on currently about to do timing on a new ignition system on one , the other one just needs wired up. Def going to use that dead cylinder technique thank you 🙏
Hey I got an issue with my rear wheel ,
I’ve checked my bearings and they do need replacement and I’ve got some ordered. But also just when I naturally trying to tighten up my axle bolt the tensioner starts to turn with it and it won’t even tighten up. This is a 75.
I have another one that’s an 81 , well I put the wheel back on the 81 and the bolt just tightens right up and doesn’t affect the tensioner as my past few did.
But this 75 is just not letting me tighten the bolt. Would the bearings affect that ? Or do I need to go deeper ?
@@annihilationcontrol6369 sound like maybe a spacer is missing and are sure the axle nut is not strip the threads on the inside?
@@outlaw86custom yeah you can hand tighten the axle bolt all the way down seems to be all in working order even used my 81 axle nut to test it and got same results the bolt like hits a dead stop at 50 lbs and the tensioner starts turning with it and even if I hold the tensioner and force it to tighten up it still doesn’t hold the wheel in place really at all . Bearings and a spacer kit ya think ?
And also on a drum brake style rear wheel set up on the side that holds the brake stuff. If you take that side apart and take off the hub on that side ; have you ever heard of a spacer being there in the little hole that has a seal and bearing there purpose seeming to me to keep the hub from being pulled by wheel.
On my 81 the hub naturally won’t go all the way down keeping it free from wheel pull , but on the 75 it has what looks exactly like a spacer in between the hub and the axle hole to keep it free spinning. If I don’t use it I’ve got a huge gap and the hub sticks right too the assembly and moves with wheel. Ever seen that or heard of that
Is this the Miss’s bike or your bike after the accident? Very good hands on tutorial. Thank you.
Great video! And oh my - what would you call that tool at 8:30? That curved screw driver - that would be a game changing tool!
Sir i am curious what you prefer for an ignition system. My factory TCI sensor went out and i am looking at different systems what in your opinion is the best?
I like points just because that's what I have used for many years. But to replace the factory TCI you could go with Mike's xs ignition system or a Huges hand build but I still run the manual advance unless you're going to race the bike just my $0.02.
Miyagi
Hey love this channel what a great feed of info... I'm having an issue with my 1980 special carbs have complety be cleaned put back on the bike air/fuel mixture is at 2/1/2 turns out right cylinder is not firing tried the spark plug switch also the wire switch still the same can you please help I am stuck thanks so much
Are you sure there's actually fuel in the carburetor bowl and I could use a little more information on the engine status like did it run for the carb clean or last valve adjustment , things like that.
@@outlaw86custom hi there thanks so for your reply I found the issue I bought the more expensive plugs and they were faulty never have I come across something like this I went and bought the cheaper ones and the bike came Alive so happy...but I do have another issue I put new left and right gaskets now I have leaks didn't use any kind of bond should I,thanks again
so i bought an XS650 a while ago, it ran fine for a few weeks then i felt a some jerking with the acceleration, i cleaned the carbs and then it stopped running, i bought a pair of VM34s to replace my old carbs but i cant get the damn thing to idle at all, i did mess a bit with these switches at 5:23. any idea whats the best way to get it to idle!? i tried every single jet i got with the vm34s and nothing :(
Well I have a few questions what year is your bike ? What size of old carbs did you have bs38 or bs34 ? and I'm not a real big fan of the vm34s they take too long to adjust.
Seems straightforward in content. Really appreciate the warning with electronic ignition, about plug grounding to save the module from cooking. Glad the old girl twisted right up for you the way she did. Have a great day.
Thank you, and thanks for watching
Hello mr Miyagi. I have an 1974 xs ohc electric. After winter storage, it dosn't run smooth now. When i acelerate it coughs and lugs. Do you know what it could bee?
Sounds like you need to clean the carburetors little Jets holes inside maybe plugged that happens when they sit over the winter and you didn't drain the carburetors.... Hope that helps, Miyagi
@@outlaw86custom thank you i Will check it out
So, I’ve been told that adjusting these pilot screws will help with the issue that I’m having where my bike will tend to run 3000rpm when the engine is warm and the clutch is engaged (bike in gear). I assume that the screws may be too tight and need to be backed out? Or am I incorrect?
Otherwise, when the bike is cold started, it idles very well. The issue only happens when it’s been running a while. I’m pretty sure it’s not an air leak.
Try doing a dead cylinder carburetor adjustment with the pilot to get it to run as option performance. Starting the bike with one spark plug wire removed and adjusting the carburetor on the opposite side do its optimum performance. And then switch to the other side that may help. Thanks for watching
hi again i have searched everywhere for that adjustable 90degree? screwdriver ! or (with tank on)is there a alternative i overlooked? thanks Al
www.motosport.com/bikemaster-extra-reach-adjustment-screwdriver?variant[BMS004P]=BMS004P-X001-Y001
Hi sir Miyagi. How do you find where to mark for the timing adjustment on the PMA?
Here link that may help, lots of information: www.xs650.com/threads/motor-timing-with-pamco-electric-ign-tc-bro%E2%80%99s-pma-kit.56555/
thanks for watching.
@@outlaw86custom thank you!
Mine runs awesome with the chokes down but as soon as I pull them up closed the bike back fires and shuts off. Then if I ride it with them down its popping and sputtering and breaking up. Help mr miyagi your my only hope.
Tim,
First off check to see if you have any vacuum leaks like around the manifold or you don't have the vacuum tubes closed off on the manifold.
Also the carburetors may need to be cleaned or rebuilt
@@outlaw86custom hey thank you so much. I pulled them apart and cleaned them today. Turned out to be quite easy. It is running way better. The only thing is my carbs are mikuni 38s and they dont have vacuum ports to sync them. Should I drill and tap them to make ports or will I be able to get it rolling if I keep playing with it. I literally know nothing
Show float adjust.
It's a simple process of moving the tab up and down with The valve intake tab is located. I can't make a video right now of that but I'm sure that there's plenty out there that'll do it. I'm going through heart surgery. Thanks for watching