It may be just a quincidence, but I have found that putting the springs on with the hook part away from the split in the weights and hooks on opposing sides from each other. Picture the weights side by side with the split being at the top and bottom, put one spring on with the hook facing to the right, and the other with the hook facing to the left. They seem to engage smoother, and i haven't had a spring break since I've started doing that. Also, when they do break just the hook off the end, you can get by temporarily by bending a new hook onto the end that broke. Depending on how much broke off, it may raise your engagement rpm slightly, but it will keep you riding while you're waiting on replacements to arrive.
Yeah someone else mentioned that a few months ago and called it ‘clocking’ the springs. That was the first time I had heard of it but they said it worked like you said.
@@jwsbackyard6413 I haven't found it in any of the comet manuals, and like I said, it might just be a quincidence. But I went from breaking springs to having a set now for about 6 months longer than normal with no other changes other than the spring location. It would be worth a try.
It's NOT a quincidence because that's not a word. You're looking for Coincidence. a remarkable concurrence of events or circumstances without apparent causal connection
How about why won’t my secondary pulley open up?? It was running fine an I adjusted my spring to see if I can get more torque an now it has lost half its speed an engine does not sound like rpm are even high enough to engage
I reset back to its original spot an still the same. Any advice would be greatly appreciated I just got two used trail masters off market place an have never owned any small engines totally in the dark hear.
Hmm at first it sounds like it could be a combo of an under powered engine on a heavier kart or too aggressive of gearing keeping it from being able to get the belt all the way up and down the pulleys but if you switched back and it’s doing the same it doesn’t sound like that’s the issue. I’d make sure the nuts aren’t over tightened like you mentioned on the other video and make sure to pretensioned the spring correctly when you put it back in.
Thanks for the response brother and yeah loosening the big bolt helped I also switch the main driver clutch with the used on on the other it’s definitely running better but when you floor it it will sputter for about 10 seconds an then you feel the belt tightening an you dart off. Thinking I may need a new driver clutch? I take it apart a springs are intact cleaned it up with carb cleaner just don’t see how it could be malfunctioning everything appears to be good. Think clutch could still be bad although it looks ok?
@@ryanhodge3920 it’s unlinkely the driver would just go out at the same time you changed spring settings. From what you described it sounds like it could be a bad belt that is slipping. Also make sure that the outer cover for the driver is lined up correctly with the flat sides on the raised portion of the inner sleeve so that the cover is locked in place.
My 30 series doesn’t engage smoothly I can’t floor it from a stop like you do in the video or else it jerks to much. Any idea what’s wrong with it? Is the jerking normal?
No that’s not normal. I’ve had some do that and usually is an old or loose belt. I’d also make sure your belt is aligned properly and the flat side of the belt is closest to the engine and the angled portion is facing away from the engine.
Just get a little bit of the spring in the groove and hold it down so it can’t slip out and just roll the rest of the spring on with your palm. I usually leave one spring on while I’m replacing the opposite spring to keep the weights together.
You should be able to pry the weights off the shaft with a flathead screwdriver and maybe some lubricant. Sounds like you may just need a new weight set. You can get them cheap on eBay or Amazon.
It may be just a quincidence, but I have found that putting the springs on with the hook part away from the split in the weights and hooks on opposing sides from each other. Picture the weights side by side with the split being at the top and bottom, put one spring on with the hook facing to the right, and the other with the hook facing to the left. They seem to engage smoother, and i haven't had a spring break since I've started doing that.
Also, when they do break just the hook off the end, you can get by temporarily by bending a new hook onto the end that broke. Depending on how much broke off, it may raise your engagement rpm slightly, but it will keep you riding while you're waiting on replacements to arrive.
Yeah someone else mentioned that a few months ago and called it ‘clocking’ the springs. That was the first time I had heard of it but they said it worked like you said.
@@jwsbackyard6413 I haven't found it in any of the comet manuals, and like I said, it might just be a quincidence. But I went from breaking springs to having a set now for about 6 months longer than normal with no other changes other than the spring location. It would be worth a try.
It's NOT a quincidence because that's not a word. You're looking for Coincidence.
a remarkable concurrence of events or circumstances without apparent causal connection
What size chain is it please I need to know.
35 chain
@@jwsbackyard6413 so a 42 won't fit on there ?
@@user-yv9dk9mu1r do you mean 420 chain? You can use any size chain as long as you have that size chain sprocket on the axle and torque converter.
@@jwsbackyard6413 thanks man
@@jwsbackyard6413 and you don't happen to have the link for the one you got do you ?
How about why won’t my secondary pulley open up?? It was running fine an I adjusted my spring to see if I can get more torque an now it has lost half its speed an engine does not sound like rpm are even high enough to engage
I reset back to its original spot an still the same. Any advice would be greatly appreciated I just got two used trail masters off market place an have never owned any small engines totally in the dark hear.
Hmm at first it sounds like it could be a combo of an under powered engine on a heavier kart or too aggressive of gearing keeping it from being able to get the belt all the way up and down the pulleys but if you switched back and it’s doing the same it doesn’t sound like that’s the issue. I’d make sure the nuts aren’t over tightened like you mentioned on the other video and make sure to pretensioned the spring correctly when you put it back in.
Thanks for the response brother and yeah loosening the big bolt helped I also switch the main driver clutch with the used on on the other it’s definitely running better but when you floor it it will sputter for about 10 seconds an then you feel the belt tightening an you dart off. Thinking I may need a new driver clutch? I take it apart a springs are intact cleaned it up with carb cleaner just don’t see how it could be malfunctioning everything appears to be good. Think clutch could still be bad although it looks ok?
@@ryanhodge3920 it’s unlinkely the driver would just go out at the same time you changed spring settings. From what you described it sounds like it could be a bad belt that is slipping. Also make sure that the outer cover for the driver is lined up correctly with the flat sides on the raised portion of the inner sleeve so that the cover is locked in place.
I hit mine with a rench
No you didn't. It's called a wrench. What you said isn't even a word, so you didn't hit anything with it.
My 30 series doesn’t engage smoothly I can’t floor it from a stop like you do in the video or else it jerks to much. Any idea what’s wrong with it? Is the jerking normal?
No that’s not normal. I’ve had some do that and usually is an old or loose belt. I’d also make sure your belt is aligned properly and the flat side of the belt is closest to the engine and the angled portion is facing away from the engine.
Did you get it fixed?
Mine is shaped like an oval and the spring doesn’t wanna expand much to go all they way around what do I do
Just get a little bit of the spring in the groove and hold it down so it can’t slip out and just roll the rest of the spring on with your palm. I usually leave one spring on while I’m replacing the opposite spring to keep the weights together.
@@jwsbackyard6413 the weights are stuck and one of those long things that go in the hole is out of it and the weights won’t move or separate
You should be able to pry the weights off the shaft with a flathead screwdriver and maybe some lubricant. Sounds like you may just need a new weight set. You can get them cheap on eBay or Amazon.
Just installed mine.
And it won't do anything
Can you describe more specifically what it’s doing? Also I have a long form video on common mistakes
And can I use a 420 chain
If you can find the sprocket for the torque converter and axle you can use any size chain that you want