I appreciate that my friend! Being way too detailed oriented for ones own health probably - and by doing the wrong thing before. Like Edison said once - “I can tell you 1000 ways how NOT to make a light bulb”.
Hey it's Mike the Weird Beard! :D been meaning to check your channel out since Randy mentioned you were uploading. BTW you should cut him a deal on the latest caddy, the $265 one, I think he wants it for his own lol
Two tubes of Grease and some plastic sheeting is all it takes to prevent moisture damage,, coat all bolt holes,smear onto pistons and cylinder walls,even rub it all over the outside of the block, then rap it up with plastic,, my Grandpa showed me this when I was a kid,,he had a old flat head 6 that had been stored for over 20 years,, when he pulled the plastic off and cleaned off the grease with gas(remember that’s how things were done back then)it looked just like new( the comment was made about him using gas instead of solvent) and he left the oil pan on it for storage
I agree with the gasket sealer all over engines. Especially on the water pumps haha. Someday I hope to build or modify some kind of engine to require zero gaskets. It is possible to do. They used to have flanged connections all over steam locomotives and engines that could hold hundreds or thousands of hot PSI of steam with no gasket. All you need to do is get a perfect flat surface. Not worth most people's time normally but I think it would be a really cool exercise in what is possible. Gaskets fill in imperfections. Spend some time with a flat stone on the surfaces, use surface dye, remove the high spots, repeat until all the high spots are gone. This is how you achieve as flat of a surface as you can get. Check out "Foundations of Mechanical Accuracy" for an in depth explination. These are the masters who explain how they made the master tool sets that all precision tools like mills and lathes were created and gauged off of.
My buddy has a collection of 22 cars and when he stores them he overfills the engine oil right to the top of the valve cover so there’s now way moisture can get in. He also fills an automatic transmission all the way to the top of the dipstick tube for the same reason.
As a fellow Iowan I know the struggle of leaving stuff sitting unprotected for any amount of time. I don't usually bother with 302s anymore but I've never been able to toss out a 351w, especially the later model roller cam blocks. As others have said oil em up real good and I usually wrap em up inside a half dozen garbage bags just to be safe. I usually re-oil and re-bag whatever I haven't touched in awhile right before the snow starts flying, when its time to put the toys away and get the winter beater out.
Old ioway and it’s humidity and seasonal temperature changes real do a number to anything sitting on the ground, especially on a dirt floor of a pole building!
@@ThunderHead289 Might a clinging type start up oil or treatment work? such as Castrol Magnatec? PTFE? or other engine treatments made for startup protection? Or just reduce storage. Get those engines into cars and the cars on the road and sold. Even that engine, you should sand off just enough rust to prevent seizure, assemble it, run it, bolt it into a car or truck in comparable condition, and sell it as is. I do think it is not so bad that it can't be made to run, therefore not completely ruined. It might even be better than the rotstang engine.
In whatever building you store the blocks or engines in... if it's sealed, put a dehumidifier in with it. You can get those pretty cheap and there is lots of portable models out there. Just have to empty them if you run them a lot is all.
I've been guilty of this. Killed a 1970 429 block like that. I used to spray them down with wd40 and bag them, but found them rusty in a couple of months. Now I spray them down with a "dry" lubricant, and have had no more rust issues with storage engines.
Reminds me years ago, a buddy went to look at a newly rebuilt 454 to put in his truck. The engine WAS newly rebuilt, but had sat in a shed for like 4 years right after the rebuild. Was completely ruined.
New engines are the most susceptible for sure - especially if they get hot tanked. Then they don’t have that nice crusted over layer of oil to protect them!
When I needed a new engine for my 86, I went to 3-4 different places and all of them were locked up. Finally found one that was good to go when it came out of a running truck.
if anyone wants to talk tech, find us at the Thunderhead289 Engine Tech & Tune Facebook Page. Here is the link to the engine stand I use - amzn.to/2DAdiii Here is the video where i show how to assemble it (it can be tricky - its cheap for a reason, but works well) - czcams.com/video/uo8l1NdjjuA/video.html
I have a friend that has an engine sitting in his garage on a stand. Its been there gathering dust and slowly rusting away. It was a project him and his dad started on and his dad died. The Camaro it came out of is still sitting there , it has rust so its nothing great. The car is actually at the point it would require a new short block and extensive body work to be worth it.
Haven't seen this one. Been out of town working for a few months. Find a cheap 4cy fox or a roller and swap that 393 in it with a t5 or a top loader. My dad used to run mid 6's on stock top loaders with a nitrous cleavor.
You have been learning correctly. My boy will learn dad does know what he's doing. "Hot Rod" magazine taught me well. "NEVER EVER USE RTV TO SEAL AN ENGINE!" How many strands of RTV have you found in oil pump strainers? I've known dudes that would use an entire tube off RTV per engine assembly. "Hot Rod" taught to learn to prepare your gasket sealing surfaces so you don't NEED ANY DAMN RTV! A tiny dab at the ends of intake gaskets is all you ever need. And use a tiny dad so you don't introduce ANY INTO THE OIL PAN! Later on aviation engines I discovered Hylemar as a suitable replacement for RTV. It sticks gaskets in place and dissolves in oil. It is removed during the break in oil change. It works good on car engines too.
That's nasty, I think being on the ground causes more issues due to the temperature difference between the part on the floor and the rest of the engine attracting moisture to condense. Not as bad as the Range Rover engine a friend stored, on the ground in an open fronted shed but also right behind a caustic tank he was using to strip wooden doors... The thing corroded so much that when I tore the carbs off for parts, the valley gasket was rotted through and inside the valley looked like it had been a boat anchor.
I was just thinking it was a good thing I didn't have any laying around. Then I remembered my dad has a 350 sitting outside. Going to get an engine stand once we put up a garage. Guess I'll have to pull it down to see
How's it going, i bought a ln engine from a yard thats beem sitting on a pallet for almost a year, what do i do first before starting the engine, should i flush it first? Thanks in advance bro
Again just a very educational and informative video. Can you tell me will a 351 winsor fit in a car with a 5.0 liter block? Thanks. And would you build one for me. Work looks solid every video you make. I live in MO. So I could bring it up to you.
The motor mounts are the same, but the deck is taller, so ultimately the exhaust sits a bit higher. Headers typically need to be changed to swap units if you already have them on a 302/5.0. I’d love to build engines for people, and I’m honored that so many people lately have the confidence in me to do an engine for them - but, unfortunately I travel for work and I just couldn’t get stuff done for people in a reasonable timeline. The automotive stuff has to take a backseat to what I have going on right now 👍
You need to match up the correct flywheel and front harmonic balancer. 28.2 oz and 50 oz... big difference. The motor mount holes, bell housing, and front timing case covers are the same. 351W has the same firing order as the 5.0L HO... 13726548. Distributors are different, but if I remember right, the 429/460 has the same distributor as the 351W. Be careful with the cam you use... the roller cam needs a compatible distributor gear.
It's hard to let loose of your Treasures I remember one time I had a 20 x 25 full of different Fe automotive and Industrial a couple of old m Block some Windsor ho pickup truck engines you always think you're going to have time to do those ideas I tell you I wish I could have hung onto the old bellhousings and forks and things and flywheels you'll miss it as soon as you get rid of it
i know what you mean - i have limited myself to the small block ford so that i just dont end up having too many things laying around. i have lost one of my own blocks and a crank before . needless to say it sucks
Can I assume the piston was at TDC, and the rusty area extends into the ring travel area? If not, the corrosion at the bottom of the stroke may not look good, but should not have a serious effect on how the piston works in the cylinder as long as the clearance to the cylinder wall is withing tolerance. The surface pits shouldn't hurt anything. OTOH, if the rings must travel over the rusty pits, that's another story, and I would expect some oil consumption if not some loss of compression.
There were about 3 bum cylinders - one I can feel is pretty pitted. All extend into ring travel areas unfortunately. I’ll take it to the machine shop, but I’m thinking the pits will be too deep. - anything the ring can catch on isn’t ideal, and this one looks like it mill have a multitude of catch points unfortunately. Free engine though - fun too see. Quite eye opening!
I covered my block with wheel bearing grease. seems like every thing in my garage gets rusty very quick. It's messy but hopefully it will stop it from rusting. I'm in Pennsylvania.
That I have no idea on. I think Chevy our theirs in back to avoid water cutting the spark. It’s a smarter location in my opinion. The one I like the best is the big block Chrysler - the oil pump is externally accessible. Dylan mccool done learnt me when we were all in ssee together.
If I want to store a diesel engine - how long will the oil be good for in the engine? If unused or just started occasionally - would oil be good for a few years?
Hone that dirty hole out and its a good'un! But yeah thats pretty rusty! I salvaged an Olds 350 that i got for free with a th350 that had been on a dirt floor in a shed, with water in the cylinders for at least a decade, amazingly enough it looks useable. Been told old Olds blocks have a high nickel content
Ofc forgot to say that even being partially filled with water, the rust wasnt as bad as that, it was just layer of brown, as opposed to a crystalized looking layer like that, different climate i suppose
Two words: Hygrometers and Dehumidifiers! I OBSESSIVELY MONITOR and CONTROL humidity in EVERY building and room where anything that matters to me is located. That goes for my guitars and other musical instruments, all the way to my motorcycles, parts, engines, tools, etc... Hygrometers cost $10 bucks, and dehumidifiers are worth the $150-$250 expense (if you’re not running standard home HVAC; heating and air conditioning, which IS dehumidification). Go to Home Depot and spend $150-$250 on a STAND-ALONE hygrometer (do not rely on the one built in to your dehumidifier) and dehumidifier, keep your humidity BELOW 50%, and you’ll NEVER have this problem again...
Yes it is - in the galaxie it goes this winter. Going to run that engine on power tour - at least that’s the plan. Should run it through its paces pretty good 👍
@@ThunderHead289 My 302 in my Bronco had a similar issue after it sat for many years. It was rebuilt at .040 and ran great when I tore it down. Rusted cylinders from rain getting into the carb through the air cleaner bolt when the tsrp ent to crap unnoticed. Its .060" overbored now and it cleaned up and now runs great again. Dont give up on that block yet.
Serious question. Little backstory, got a 81 vw rabbit pickup (diesel), horrible rod knock. Yanked the engine, spun it over thinking to just replace bearings. Got the crank out. Bad news, number 1 connecting rod has *no* bearing left. Cranks scored bad, rods scored bad... trash. Now we're up to our necks in a complete rebuild and only the resources (cash on hand) to reassemble the bottom, not a complete rebuild. So far only the bottom is open, heads still on, both manifolds as well as injectors fuel loom and pump. *first time attempting, moderate mechanical ability, no training, rebuild manual in hand* Question; how do we properly store this thing while funds, parts and services are secured to do a complete rebuild? (Two months, in basement, potential ambient moisture) helpful suggestions welcome as well.
David Piehl you should be okay in the basement - large temperature swings are pretty much not present and in most cases, humidity stays fairly low - Iv stored stuff in a basement lightly oiled for years without issue. Just be sure to keep it up off the floor and wrap it up good. Maybe a Quick can of spray lube to the parts for extra insurance. PS - you know you want a small block ford in there 🤷♂️
@@ThunderHead289 I have a 351w sitting in the barn, dad's motor gotten through a shady deal with his uncle, given to me. I'd LOVE to see that monster sitting in the ultralight pickup but I'm not aware of any easy frame adaption that'd be possible on a tight budget. Pipe dreams! Thanks for the advice! Definitely earned the sub and views.
David Piehl , if you take some Grease and throw it on the wall, it will be there 10 years later, if you take some Grease and put it on anything that rust it's like a barrier between moisture and Air, get you a pair of rubber gloves and smeared on the cylinder walls to connecting rods and anything else that you don't want to r u s t, when it's time to do to rebuild job, a little bit of kerosene and a rag and the Grease wipes right off, Nuts and Bolts can be put in a jar or can and filled with oil, five gallon buckets can hold bigger parts and soaked down with oil or even submerged in oil, also WD-40, and the WD stands for water displacement, the whole engine block can be squirted with oil or Grease and covered with a large trash bag, heat and cold mixed together creates moisture, cold engine block and heat from a stove, and moisture starts to form, oil and Grease and WD-40 and a trash bag, oil and grease is cheap compared to engine parts so don't spare it, use plenty
Jeff Walker I completely agree, but at 100 bucks a sleeve, it can be pretty spendy vs running a different block. This engine is for fun, we will see if she cleans up
Well I bought a 383 bbm long block that was sitting on a shopfloor for who knows how long probably about 5-10 years no cover no nothing. It was so caked in grease and burnt oil that it had to be hot tanked 4 times and the only rust on it was surface of the outer block. I think I got lucky
you guys have never seen a rusty engine if you think that is bad.......I've been doing model T engines for years and they come in one color....brown.....usually full of dirt from the hole they were pulled from...
Machine shop will clean that block up ..checked for cracks ,decked ,check cylinders see if they are strait . Bore&Hone next size up ,,, new freeze plugs, cambearings ,check rods, turn crank 10 on rod journals and 10 on main journals ,clevett77 crank bearings to mach ,,...
Guess what - no ads = no videos out of me. I can do better things with my time 👍 this is to help people, but the time I spend with it is time away from my family and I would like some compensation for that.
How does a guy as young as you, have so much doggone knowledge? You rock, man.
I appreciate that my friend!
Being way too detailed oriented for ones own health probably - and by doing the wrong thing before. Like Edison said once - “I can tell you 1000 ways how NOT to make a light bulb”.
I’m so glad I found this channel. Junkyard diggs, Dylan McCool and this channel are my favs.
Hey it's Mike the Weird Beard! :D been meaning to check your channel out since Randy mentioned you were uploading. BTW you should cut him a deal on the latest caddy, the $265 one, I think he wants it for his own lol
Check out vice grips garage.
Two tubes of Grease and some plastic sheeting is all it takes to prevent moisture damage,, coat all bolt holes,smear onto pistons and cylinder walls,even rub it all over the outside of the block, then rap it up with plastic,, my Grandpa showed me this when I was a kid,,he had a old flat head 6 that had been stored for over 20 years,, when he pulled the plastic off and cleaned off the grease with gas(remember that’s how things were done back then)it looked just like new( the comment was made about him using gas instead of solvent) and he left the oil pan on it for storage
I agree with the gasket sealer all over engines. Especially on the water pumps haha. Someday I hope to build or modify some kind of engine to require zero gaskets. It is possible to do. They used to have flanged connections all over steam locomotives and engines that could hold hundreds or thousands of hot PSI of steam with no gasket. All you need to do is get a perfect flat surface. Not worth most people's time normally but I think it would be a really cool exercise in what is possible. Gaskets fill in imperfections. Spend some time with a flat stone on the surfaces, use surface dye, remove the high spots, repeat until all the high spots are gone. This is how you achieve as flat of a surface as you can get. Check out "Foundations of Mechanical Accuracy" for an in depth explination. These are the masters who explain how they made the master tool sets that all precision tools like mills and lathes were created and gauged off of.
My buddy has a collection of 22 cars and when he stores them he overfills the engine oil right to the top of the valve cover so there’s now way moisture can get in. He also fills an automatic transmission all the way to the top of the dipstick tube for the same reason.
Great stuff, I always check for your vids to learn something new!
Thanks for sharing another informative video. Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family.
As a fellow Iowan I know the struggle of leaving stuff sitting unprotected for any amount of time. I don't usually bother with 302s anymore but I've never been able to toss out a 351w, especially the later model roller cam blocks. As others have said oil em up real good and I usually wrap em up inside a half dozen garbage bags just to be safe. I usually re-oil and re-bag whatever I haven't touched in awhile right before the snow starts flying, when its time to put the toys away and get the winter beater out.
Old ioway and it’s humidity and seasonal temperature changes real do a number to anything sitting on the ground, especially on a dirt floor of a pole building!
I enjoyed this video. The narration is fantastic and very informative 👍
if you fill your motor to the brim with cheap/used oil, your chances of it rusting are basically impossible
It might weep a little. A lottle - but I can’t say your wrong 🤷♂️
Hell, I "paint" my F150 frame with bar and chain oil every winter...messy but it works!
@@ThunderHead289 Might a clinging type start up oil or treatment work? such as Castrol Magnatec? PTFE? or other engine treatments made for startup protection? Or just reduce storage. Get those engines into cars and the cars on the road and sold.
Even that engine, you should sand off just enough rust to prevent seizure, assemble it, run it, bolt it into a car or truck in comparable condition, and sell it as is. I do think it is not so bad that it can't be made to run, therefore not completely ruined. It might even be better than the rotstang engine.
In whatever building you store the blocks or engines in... if it's sealed, put a dehumidifier in with it. You can get those pretty cheap and there is lots of portable models out there. Just have to empty them if you run them a lot is all.
I've been guilty of this. Killed a 1970 429 block like that. I used to spray them down with wd40 and bag them, but found them rusty in a couple of months. Now I spray them down with a "dry" lubricant, and have had no more rust issues with storage engines.
Reminds me years ago, a buddy went to look at a newly rebuilt 454 to put in his truck. The engine WAS newly rebuilt, but had sat in a shed for like 4 years right after the rebuild. Was completely ruined.
New engines are the most susceptible for sure - especially if they get hot tanked. Then they don’t have that nice crusted over layer of oil to protect them!
When I needed a new engine for my 86, I went to 3-4 different places and all of them were locked up. Finally found one that was good to go when it came out of a running truck.
@@ThunderHead289 What is "hot tanked?"
Good information to help other guys out thank you
Wonder if you fill them up to the top with cheap engine oil to store them more than 3-5 years
if anyone wants to talk tech, find us at the Thunderhead289 Engine Tech & Tune Facebook Page.
Here is the link to the engine stand I use - amzn.to/2DAdiii
Here is the video where i show how to assemble it (it can be tricky - its cheap for a reason, but works well) - czcams.com/video/uo8l1NdjjuA/video.html
Had the exact same scenario with a used 3.8 I bought. Luckily, it cleaned up at .030.
I have a friend that has an engine sitting in his garage on a stand. Its been there gathering dust and slowly rusting away. It was a project him and his dad started on and his dad died. The Camaro it came out of is still sitting there , it has rust so its nothing great. The car is actually at the point it would require a new short block and extensive body work to be worth it.
You said stored in the vehicle.. Were the manifolds on while it was stored? I've never had a problem with rust if manifolds were on.
Haven't seen this one. Been out of town working for a few months. Find a cheap 4cy fox or a roller and swap that 393 in it with a t5 or a top loader. My dad used to run mid 6's on stock top loaders with a nitrous cleavor.
So I shouldn't buy that 79k mile 68 302 which has been kept out on the firewood pile? Great Video.
Thanks for the tip happy Thanksgiving
Same to you my friend 👍
You have been learning correctly. My boy will learn dad does know what he's doing.
"Hot Rod" magazine taught me well. "NEVER EVER USE RTV TO SEAL AN ENGINE!" How many strands of RTV have you found in oil pump strainers? I've known dudes that would use an entire tube off RTV per engine assembly. "Hot Rod" taught to learn to prepare your gasket sealing surfaces so you don't NEED ANY DAMN RTV! A tiny dab at the ends of intake gaskets is all you ever need. And use a tiny dad so you don't introduce ANY INTO THE OIL PAN!
Later on aviation engines I discovered Hylemar as a suitable replacement for RTV. It sticks gaskets in place and dissolves in oil. It is removed during the break in oil change. It works good on car engines too.
That's nasty, I think being on the ground causes more issues due to the temperature difference between the part on the floor and the rest of the engine attracting moisture to condense. Not as bad as the Range Rover engine a friend stored, on the ground in an open fronted shed but also right behind a caustic tank he was using to strip wooden doors... The thing corroded so much that when I tore the carbs off for parts, the valley gasket was rotted through and inside the valley looked like it had been a boat anchor.
I was just thinking it was a good thing I didn't have any laying around. Then I remembered my dad has a 350 sitting outside. Going to get an engine stand once we put up a garage. Guess I'll have to pull it down to see
How's it going, i bought a ln engine from a yard thats beem sitting on a pallet for almost a year, what do i do first before starting the engine, should i flush it first? Thanks in advance bro
I've also see the gasket sealer in the pick up screen 100 times. It's awful.
Again just a very educational and informative video. Can you tell me will a 351 winsor fit in a car with a 5.0 liter block? Thanks. And would you build one for me. Work looks solid every video you make. I live in MO. So I could bring it up to you.
The motor mounts are the same, but the deck is taller, so ultimately the exhaust sits a bit higher. Headers typically need to be changed to swap units if you already have them on a 302/5.0.
I’d love to build engines for people, and I’m honored that so many people lately have the confidence in me to do an engine for them - but, unfortunately I travel for work and I just couldn’t get stuff done for people in a reasonable timeline. The automotive stuff has to take a backseat to what I have going on right now 👍
You need to match up the correct flywheel and front harmonic balancer. 28.2 oz and 50 oz... big difference. The motor mount holes, bell housing, and front timing case covers are the same. 351W has the same firing order as the 5.0L HO... 13726548. Distributors are different, but if I remember right, the 429/460 has the same distributor as the 351W. Be careful with the cam you use... the roller cam needs a compatible distributor gear.
that looked like a head gasket leaked into one cylinder
My first thought as well!
are there any rotstang updates coming soon?
it will be great to see the Galaxy come back.
It's hard to let loose of your Treasures I remember one time I had a 20 x 25 full of different Fe automotive and Industrial a couple of old m Block some Windsor ho pickup truck engines you always think you're going to have time to do those ideas I tell you I wish I could have hung onto the old bellhousings and forks and things and flywheels you'll miss it as soon as you get rid of it
i know what you mean - i have limited myself to the small block ford so that i just dont end up having too many things laying around. i have lost one of my own blocks and a crank before . needless to say it sucks
Sell em on craigslist. If you ever need them in the future you can buy them from someone else for around the same price you sold them for.
@@IndependenceCityMotoring Craigslist is kind of dead in my area I got offer up and I tell you what you put something on there it moves
Can I assume the piston was at TDC, and the rusty area extends into the ring travel area? If not, the corrosion at the bottom of the stroke may not look good, but should not have a serious effect on how the piston works in the cylinder as long as the clearance to the cylinder wall is withing tolerance. The surface pits shouldn't hurt anything. OTOH, if the rings must travel over the rusty pits, that's another story, and I would expect some oil consumption if not some loss of compression.
There were about 3 bum cylinders - one I can feel is pretty pitted.
All extend into ring travel areas unfortunately. I’ll take it to the machine shop, but I’m thinking the pits will be too deep. - anything the ring can catch on isn’t ideal, and this one looks like it mill have a multitude of catch points unfortunately.
Free engine though - fun too see. Quite eye opening!
Cool video man.
I covered my block with wheel bearing grease. seems like every thing in my garage gets rusty very quick. It's messy but hopefully it will stop it from rusting. I'm in Pennsylvania.
What's your opinion on propane?
What’s your opinion on why didn’t the car manufacturers standardized the distributor location on the front of the engine like Ford did?
That I have no idea on. I think Chevy our theirs in back to avoid water cutting the spark. It’s a smarter location in my opinion. The one I like the best is the big block Chrysler - the oil pump is externally accessible.
Dylan mccool done learnt me when we were all in ssee together.
If I want to store a diesel engine - how long will the oil be good for in the engine? If unused or just started occasionally - would oil be good for a few years?
Absolutely
Hone that dirty hole out and its a good'un! But yeah thats pretty rusty! I salvaged an Olds 350 that i got for free with a th350 that had been on a dirt floor in a shed, with water in the cylinders for at least a decade, amazingly enough it looks useable. Been told old Olds blocks have a high nickel content
Ofc forgot to say that even being partially filled with water, the rust wasnt as bad as that, it was just layer of brown, as opposed to a crystalized looking layer like that, different climate i suppose
I thought all these "nickel content" myths were busted. Right up there with indestructible Mexican 302's and 4 speed 403's.
I've been told the cadillac, olds and buick blocks were generally more nickle'd than your usual sbc, atleast they seem to rust slower?
i spy a 1980's blue fan next to that ikea lamp..(i have both in my shop haha)
Dont store engines directly on the dirt use some sort of a barrier even if its plastic they will wick up moisture like a sock in a puddle
Man, what a waste. So sad to see that engine completely and unnecessarily destroyed.
Two words: Hygrometers and Dehumidifiers! I OBSESSIVELY MONITOR and CONTROL humidity in EVERY building and room where anything that matters to me is located. That goes for my guitars and other musical instruments, all the way to my motorcycles, parts, engines, tools, etc... Hygrometers cost $10 bucks, and dehumidifiers are worth the $150-$250 expense (if you’re not running standard home HVAC; heating and air conditioning, which IS dehumidification). Go to Home Depot and spend $150-$250 on a STAND-ALONE hygrometer (do not rely on the one built in to your dehumidifier) and dehumidifier, keep your humidity BELOW 50%, and you’ll NEVER have this problem again...
How did that mabbco motor hold up.....is that the pretty one in the bag?
Yes it is - in the galaxie it goes this winter. Going to run that engine on power tour - at least that’s the plan.
Should run it through its paces pretty good 👍
You don't think a. 030" over bore would clean that up?
I haven’t checked it, but it looks to be rebuilt. I think it’s already 30 over.
I’ll be finding out sometime this winter 👍
@@ThunderHead289 My 302 in my Bronco had a similar issue after it sat for many years. It was rebuilt at .040 and ran great when I tore it down. Rusted cylinders from rain getting into the carb through the air cleaner bolt when the tsrp ent to crap unnoticed. Its .060" overbored now and it cleaned up and now runs great again. Dont give up on that block yet.
Great video
Serious question.
Little backstory, got a 81 vw rabbit pickup (diesel), horrible rod knock. Yanked the engine, spun it over thinking to just replace bearings. Got the crank out. Bad news, number 1 connecting rod has *no* bearing left. Cranks scored bad, rods scored bad... trash. Now we're up to our necks in a complete rebuild and only the resources (cash on hand) to reassemble the bottom, not a complete rebuild. So far only the bottom is open, heads still on, both manifolds as well as injectors fuel loom and pump. *first time attempting, moderate mechanical ability, no training, rebuild manual in hand*
Question; how do we properly store this thing while funds, parts and services are secured to do a complete rebuild? (Two months, in basement, potential ambient moisture) helpful suggestions welcome as well.
David Piehl you should be okay in the basement - large temperature swings are pretty much not present and in most cases, humidity stays fairly low - Iv stored stuff in a basement lightly oiled for years without issue. Just be sure to keep it up off the floor and wrap it up good. Maybe a Quick can of spray lube to the parts for extra insurance.
PS - you know you want a small block ford in there 🤷♂️
@@ThunderHead289 I have a 351w sitting in the barn, dad's motor gotten through a shady deal with his uncle, given to me. I'd LOVE to see that monster sitting in the ultralight pickup but I'm not aware of any easy frame adaption that'd be possible on a tight budget. Pipe dreams!
Thanks for the advice! Definitely earned the sub and views.
I appreciate that!
I’m but a small channel, but I’m proud of it 👍
As long as I can help people out, that’s all I care about
David Piehl , if you take some Grease and throw it on the wall, it will be there 10 years later, if you take some Grease and put it on anything that rust it's like a barrier between moisture and Air, get you a pair of rubber gloves and smeared on the cylinder walls to connecting rods and anything else that you don't want to r u s t, when it's time to do to rebuild job, a little bit of kerosene and a rag and the Grease wipes right off, Nuts and Bolts can be put in a jar or can and filled with oil, five gallon buckets can hold bigger parts and soaked down with oil or even submerged in oil, also WD-40, and the WD stands for water displacement, the whole engine block can be squirted with oil or Grease and covered with a large trash bag, heat and cold mixed together creates moisture, cold engine block and heat from a stove, and moisture starts to form, oil and Grease and WD-40 and a trash bag, oil and grease is cheap compared to engine parts so don't spare it, use plenty
Cheap engine stand link?
Pinned comment.
Video description below video
It might be possible to have the cylinder(s) sleeved.
Jeff Walker I completely agree, but at 100 bucks a sleeve, it can be pretty spendy vs running a different block.
This engine is for fun, we will see if she cleans up
Well I bought a 383 bbm long block that was sitting on a shopfloor for who knows how long probably about 5-10 years no cover no nothing. It was so caked in grease and burnt oil that it had to be hot tanked 4 times and the only rust on it was surface of the outer block. I think I got lucky
Just read your Facebook add and laughed then saw you uploaded, kinda crazy lol
makes me glad I live in the desert. My slant six is old and crusty but it runs pretty good. Good for an engine that's WAY out of tune.
Yup one of the good things about living in the south/ south west
How long was it sitting there?
5 or 6 years. Sitting on the ground in a tire in a shed. Rip
Nice bottle opener ring.....
What a waste, that breaks my heart.
I took flathead fords apart that sat for years and never seen anything that bad
it has an 84 crankshaft
Great, practical tips.
We cover our motors in oil. Wrap it in plastic and bury them in the ground keeps the metal soft
no link ;/ for the engine stand.
Martiens Stieler it’s in my pinned comment 👍
nope i don't see it went thru all the comment's and noting in the description @@ThunderHead289
Bag the engine and put a gonzo marble chip bag in the bag with it. Will keep for decades.
It was a very sad day when I sold my Cleveland and it was still sitting on a dirt garage floor last time I saw it.
Many motorcycles and parts have died the same horrible death.
you guys have never seen a rusty engine if you think that is bad.......I've been doing model T engines for years and they come in one color....brown.....usually full of dirt from the hole they were pulled from...
Scrap metal yard queen.
just start you engine every few months it store for years these old ones are easy to start out of car
Only because you didn't put oil or greaseall over it
Put it back together and buy a short block! You'll be money ahead! It'll make a good core!
408 FTW!!!!
Machine shop will clean that block up ..checked for cracks ,decked ,check cylinders see if they are strait . Bore&Hone next size up ,,, new freeze plugs, cambearings ,check rods, turn crank 10 on rod journals and 10 on main journals ,clevett77 crank bearings to mach ,,...
You know who I am right?
@@ThunderHead289.. just some dude ..
Daniel Ray way too much credit - I haven’t the slightest idea what I’m doing
All over the place never getting to the point, 99% filler 1% useful info, "used" to have a hoarding issue? hah
Favorite line from the show "king of the hill" ..... I'll tell you the problem, it's a Ford 😂😂😂
Go Cyclones
Oh fer christ’s sake stop rambling!
I have too much tech for this world 🤷♂️
Working on fords you’ll never be done😉
Disliked because the mid video advertisements.
Guess what -
no ads = no videos out of me. I can do better things with my time 👍 this is to help people, but the time I spend with it is time away from my family and I would like some compensation for that.