Part One - Italian Electrical Installation First Fix czcams.com/video/jSdfJabUEUQ/video.html Electrical Fault Finding in Italy - Omhero czcams.com/video/mJHIBfJyjOQ/video.htmlsi=RvClZmuhlf72mGda
I would say Italy is an Electrical Manufacture's Paradise. It must cost home-owners a fortune for all those Conduit runs, DB's, & Relay's. A safe system, made over complicated. An Electrician will never be out of work over there. Thanks for sharing.
Kinda seems like a renting property tho.. like apartments with shared pools etc. Else it kinda would be weird to use both italian and eu sockets everywhere.
It will save in future kitchen units being taken put amd walls being burst open to try repair a failed cable . You'd have to run cables during installation anyway so flexible conduit is not much different to run
@@Woltox1By "EU" you mean schuko? That's not EU, that's just German. There is no "EU" plug, although France/Switzerland (not everywhere)/Italy have the same. Schuko is basically available everywhere too, but 's far from being European.
The socket with the double holes is to accept both a 10A plug (around 2Kw) and a 16A plug (around 3.5Kw). Some appliances like table lamps, phone chargers, tv's, use the 10A small plug. You can see that the shuko has larger holes close to the center to accept a male shuko plug, which wouldn't fit in the italian in-line one. 4:45 that is usually to indicate a "switched Phase". If i am not mistaken you can use colors like red, white, purple and so on as long as the colors aren't similar to the earth or neutral cable (can't use another shade of blue or green cables) to indicate phases that might be switched. It's common to find for example 2 white cables in between 2 single pole double throw switches. The relays to switch the lights is something that you usually find in new homes/new wiring. We also use the 2 single pole double throw or 2 double throw and one 4 way switch method. I noticed that when there are 3 to 4+ points to switch the lights, they just go with the relay setup (say for example the common lights on each floor of a condo, with a button on each floor and a time relay). All the Vimar smart stuff is also something you dont find in the typical residential home. The outdoor lighting is just done poorly.
The back boxes are American, even down to the UNC 6-32 fixing screws, which are a nightmare to find if you're using those boxes outside Italy and need longer screws. Apparently Mr. Ticino, one of the founders of BTicino, went on a study trip to the US in the late 50s and was so impressed by the system that he introduced the boxes in Italy in the early 60s. Italy also has sizes that aren't used in the US. The ones in the video all seem to be 3 modules but you can get 4 and 7 modules too, and 6 (3+3), 14 (7+7) and 21 (7+7+7). Especially the larger boxes are atrociusly expensive compared to the round 60 mm ones used elsewhere in Europe. Round ones are around 20 cents each, while a 4 module Italian one costs €2.70 and a 7 module one 4.70. The round ones slot together for multi-gang switches and sockets, so you can just multiply the price with the number of accessories you need. The non-IP rated sockets right against the sink definitely aren't a great idea, usually they're at least 300 mm above the sink and/or to the side. The lighting controls are on a KNX-based bus system, so only a two-wire bus cable runs to all the "switches", I think one cable can serve up to 128 devices. Very flexible but requires programming, so a lot of effort to install. If I remember correctly (it's been almost 20 years since I learned about KNX/EIB), each actor and sensor is assigned an address on the computer (a bit like pairing a bluetooth device), then it's assigned a function. The switches are considered sensors (because they provide an input) and the devices in the CU that do the actual switching are actors. I can't really see why you'd need that in a home, unless you wanted to add advanced automation. In an office setting where you expect partitions to be moved all the time to accomodate various needs for smaller or larger rooms it makes a lot of sense though, you can move lights to different switches as you please. In this case the KNX might be used for load management, which makes some sense. Austria uses the same style of flexible conduit installs but solid conductors up to 6 mm2, coarse stranded 10 mm2 and up. Using flexible conductors makes life a bit easier but solid works too. The regs allow for flexible conductors (class 5) but most switches and sockets have push-in terminals that aren't rated for class 5 (marked with a little r somewhere on the accessory). Italian accessories have a type of terminal that clamps the wire between a solid plate and a square nut, a bit like a cage clamp, which doesn't require ferrules. Perhaps that's why screw terminals are still so popular in Italy. Ferrules are generally only required if the wire is contacted by a screw tip or head.
In Italy you are allowed to use for the phase conductor any other color that is not currently reserved for other functions (such as blue or green/yellow). This is particularly useful to identify switched circuits when they run trough the same boxes (for example in your case the light was made with the red color after the switch to distinguish it from the permanent live). For phase conductors that are not interrupted I think the new regulation now suggest to use gray, black or brown. Of course in a single phase installation you can use any of the 3 colors for the same phase (since you have only one) and that is useful to distinguish different circuits (e.g. sockets from lights). Regarding looping out of the sockets, you were in the past allowed to do that only to a maximum of 2 or 3 boxes in series. Now I think regulation is changed and allows it always provided you are in the same room. In reality that is a bad practice, because the resistance of all the terminals adds up, and thus usually a star wiring is used, and there is also the voltage drop to be considered for the amount of cable (a maximum of 2% is allowed to the furthest socket). The looping terminals are used only to connect to sockets inside the same box (that is allowed without limitations). Also, 3 phase is rarely used. Most houses have a single phase connection, but for new installations with heat pump and induction cookers 3 phase is becoming popular even in residential.
As a non Italian, the straight / 3 in-line Italian plug is an older standard. In comes in 2 flavours, the smaller one is limited to I believe 1500W, while the larger one is up to 3000W. That's what I remember being told when I asked about it. The larger plug is beafy and I would say almost on par with the UK plug. A great bit of design.
Apparently the 10 amp variety was originally intended for lighting circuits (flat rate calculated based on the number of light bulbs) while the 16 amp one was for "power" equipment, on a metered supply as we know it today. Schuko is fairly common in Italy but doesn't seem likely to replace the Italian sockets anytime soon. You can get 10 amp sockets, 16 amp sockets, combined 10/16 amp ones (as shown in the video), 10 A/Schuko sockets (Schuko with an additional hole for the Italian earth pin) and "universale" (Schuko, 10 A, 16 A). The latter is slightly dubious because you can touch the pins of a partly inserted Schuko plug. 16 amp plugs are fairly uncommon, I've been to places where the washing machine was the only appliance that had one, so if you fit your whole house with 10 A/Schuko sockets (P30) you've got most of your needs covered.
after the supplier's meter there are differential and magneto-thermal protections, each house has its own story depending on whether it is new etc., 10A is used for lights and 10A sockets, various types of distribution are used, sometimes in renovations use a single 16A per room which is both the light and the socket, it is difficult to exceed 10A (2300W) with the lights even when they were incandescent, they are a known and predictable absorption, not like for the sockets, the legislation allows it, same what is rare is to exceed 3680W on the sockets, the 16A the bivalent or schuko ones, we have the 16A trivalent which does all 3 types, another typology from the past was a 16 socket circuit, a 10A lighting circuit, in large houses the area is divided day from the sleeping area, for a total of 4 circuits, mostly to give the possibility of having something that works in the event of a fault, then additional circuits for heating, air conditioning, kitchen, etc., many old houses only have two circuits, one for the sockets and one for the lights, 10A is generally used for 1.5mm square conductors which is the minimum section required by law, for 16A 2.5mm square is used, then it depends on the type of installation and length, the diameter
@@Ragnar8504 here there was the 220V three-phase distribution where between phase and phase there was 220Volt and between phase and neutral there was 110V, from here the two circuits called light and driving force were born, only the light bulbs were 110Volt, then abandoned for the 230Volt only
@@winterburan You mean 127 V, right? Using different plugs for different voltages absolutely makes sense. I seem to remember that some parts of Italy still derive 230 V from a 133/230 V three-phase system, as do parts of Spain and Belgium.
Thoroughly enjoyed this video Gordon thank you. 👏👏 In some ways of wiring they do things completely different to us in the UK. Can't wait for the next Italian video 👍
Regarding the sockets close the basins. I was once at a French Ski chalet, and in a large cloakroom/storage area, over the wash basin, where you would normally expect a mirror, was the main distribution board for the property. Old ceramic fuses on a big wooden board.
Will definitely need another trip to Puglia to see how it all works in the summer with the solar kit and maybe test the conductivity of the pool water!
If you think about it, it makes sense running each individual socket if there’s a case where you’d ever want to separate them onto different circuits if you have RCD tripping because of highly current or something it would be really easy to do
My property in Italy has all BS 1362 then adaptors, all electrical accessories/ fittings are expensive and because of the modular system not interchangeable. Yeah love the relays for multi way lighting, however can be annoying in the middle of the night with that clicking noise every time someone turns a light on. Who be interesting to know how dangerous it really is to have a socket so close to sink / basin. The only electric shock I had was from the washing machine in a bathroom, cos the my mum call out an Italian electrician because the Rcd keep tripping so he disconnected the earth🫣
3:18 That actually is not a schuko but a combo that accepts both schuko and Italian sockets. In the Continental Europe all countries with the exception of Denmark Italy and Switzerland use either Schuko or Belgian style sockets. Modern plugs work on either one. In Denmark an Italy schuko is increasingly used. However, the Europlug that is used on small double insulated devices work on all of the sockets.
@@efixx CEE 7/x is by far the dominant system in Europe, with most plugs fitting both German and French style sockets. So the only outliers are Italy and Denmark (Schuko codified in national standards alongside older local types) and Switzerland (unlikely to ever change, Schuko may be installed but only if enough Swiss sockets are installed side by side). And of course the four BS 1363 countries that aren't likely to change anytime soon either. Denmark made the odd choice of accepting both German and Belgian/French style CEE 7 sockets instead of picking one, we'll see where that's going. Their old system has the massive downside of sockets accepting German and French plugs without making an earth connection but both plug types are extremely common in Denmark.
@@efixx most cords here (NL, BE, DE, FR, PL, PT, ES, and a couple more) have a plug that fits both the "Schuko" and the pin-earth Belgian/French) sockets. In some counties the regulations allow you to use a socket of your own choice, BS1363, Schuko , pin-earth, of even Swiss or Italian types would be all fine to use. For example in The Netherlands, most people assume only the NEN-1010 is allowed to be used, but since it's not a publicly available, and the law mentions "or of a equivalent safety level", you are allowed to use the IEC regulations, or a derivative such as, Belgian AREI, German VDE, French NF, or even the UK's BS regulations.
I think the reason why we fit isolators is because UK MCBs are often single-pole, DP isolators are then required to provide DP isolation? If a duel pole RCBO is used then maybe isolators are not needed providing the consumer unit is close by?
@@GlynHudson According to IEC 60364, isolating the live wire in TN systems are enough, because neutral and earth are always on the same potential(0V). Obviously only in normal, not faulty state.
They dont need a isolator. Becauase they can isolate at the board. Uk 1 pole breakers only phase, not safe for isolation. Italy 2 pole breakers (phase and neutral) safe for isolation.
Interestingly you came across Finder step relays which I have used extensively. Using Scolmore retractive switching on Cat6 cabling with 24vDC to control allows the householder ultimate choice of what they want to switch.
italian big and small 3 pin are a bit tedious to deal with, when you rent an apartment there, but its mostly down to some places only having 10a supplies. feels like the big ones are generally only in the kitchen for kettles etc.
I think house building in the Uk is about 50 years behind most of Europe. We are still obsessed with cramming lots of circuits into tiny consumer units in ridiculous locations. If we designed our house similar to what we have seen here . I think this would help combat the zero emissions problem as well as making EV charging more readily available to everyone.
Yeah consumer units under stairs or directly above front door . Or in tiny cupboards built around it with barely enough space to get the front cover off the consumer unit . The placement of consumer units and dno cut outs in domestic properties in the UK is pretty bad
Can't tell you the amount of times I've had to inform a client their cupboard is going to have to be dismantled for work on their board . They're never happy and even less happy when realise they need a joiner to replace it .
I work on alot of Italian plant and it seems to be some decent accessories mixed with some poor wiring methods, they also use alot of flexible cables for fixed wiring and some of it has an aluminium braid under the outer sheath
If you guys want to make a video about dutch electrical wiring, i would like to show you guys around the Netherlands to let you look at dutch electrical work.
@efixx Gordon, you should still have my email also. Latest addition over here: TV over IP (so Cat 6 cabling) That means I only have coax up to my modem and from there only Cat cable.
I wish we had rectangular back boxes that are deep here in Greece. They use these round, shallow boxes where the schuoko outlets are held in by wings which fail to grip the plastic box. The electrician who wired my basement level placed all of the light and fan switches outside the bathroom, not upstairs, I had the electrician place switches inside the bathrooms. As for shock hazard I have a whole house GFCI feeding the mains on the panel box that each level has. If they sense any inbalance in the system they trip. So each level has its own GFCI breaker as well. To add icing to the cake I also have an American 120 volt 60Hz wiring in my home to handle my American appliances and tools. I refuse to use any Chinese inverters for my solar system. If it is internet connected it is a security hazard and because of my work requirements. It’s a back door into everything in my home, NO BUENO.
I purchased a house 18 years ago and found the wiring to be all black throughout the house. I am slowly replacing the wires and adding wifi switches to work in parallel with my relays throughout the house. I created plates with all the components and relays mounted over the JB because it's too small.
I think the isolators can be overkill and can also not be because if the appliances and cable are appropriately rated to all be side of the same supply it does negate the need for some of the isolators to be fused. I think isolated are good although no one should be doing it, it would allow someone to change out an appliance who is not technically qualified and to do it relatively safely which I think a good idea because they’re going to do it anyway so why not make it safe?
I saw that there are two wires with different diameters are put together in one connection in the consumer box. Don’t think the thinner ones are making a very good connection.
Taking each socket cable back to a junction box reminds me of an installation I came across a number of years ago. *All* sockets were single with each on its own 1.5mm cable. All cables went back to a big junction box. All socket cables went into a terminal strip then one 6mm cable back to the Consumer unit above. The guy had big drums of 1.5mm cable free or very cheap. Lights in 1.5mm, oven on 4mm or 6mm. Worked very well. Easy to fault find for sure.
I do a lot of eicrs in the uk iin domestic properties . Almost every fuseboard cupboard is full with jackets shoes old matresses etc etc crammed against the board and the meter , total fire hazard . But its ok as long as consumer unit made of metal right ? 😮
I like you're saying why we can't agree of one socket type. We agreed in the early 90 to raise from 220V to 230V and you British should lower from 240V to 230V but I don't think the last part happened, you are still using 240/415V so I think we can agree one who's the most difficult here!!?
The standard voltage in the UK is 230 / 400 and has been for some time, although in practice it's still higher, especially now we have so much solar floating around. We also changed our wiring colours from red, yellow, blue, black to brown, black,grey and blue. Time for the EU to adopt ur ring circuits and over engineered plugs. 🤣🇬🇧
Well we somehow convinced the EU to adopt this wonky standard to accommodate us. 230 V+10%/−6%. Been suffering from some European brands GU10 lamps dying ever since, specially when local solar can push it up to 250 and beyond.
The point of the harmonization wasn't to actually change the voltage (these often remained the same) but to ensure that goods manuacturered for the EU market would be designed to function correctly on either 220 or 240v (or anywhere within the 230 +10% -6% range. Can't really change the voltages too much as older equipment might fail when exposed to a higher or lower voltage than was designed for (or have shortened lifespan).
@@efixx Final ring circuits are superb. Simple and ingenious. A friend was renovating his two bedroomed apartment. Short of money as he had just bought it. He *had* to fit expensive AFDD protection. I advised one 4mm ring for all. Sockets, oven, induction hob, the lot. And one 1.00mm lighting circuit. All legal and works a treat. Cheap with the best protection.
The phase colours brown, black and grey are not used, when the phase is switched for lighting purposes. The wire outlet with the red wire is for a lamp, that's why the wire is red.
Could you take a look at some of the cheap Chinese no name brand? RCD is particularly of the most expensive type but conduct the proper safety testing to actually see if they would work.
Originally Italy had its own sockets that accept Italian plugs with 10A or 16A. These have different pin spacing. Italy now also uses modified Schuko sockets, which also accept the Italian and European plugs. There are also French sockets with a grounding pin. These are also used in Belgium, Poland and the Czech Republic. If it weren't for the licensing fees for the Schuko plug, more countries would not have used the French plug. In addition to its own sockets, Denmark is now also introducing French sockets. The PE is not connected with Danish sockets and European plugs this happens frequently. The European 3-pin combination plug fits into Schuko and French sockets. Switzerland has its own system. Only narrow Euro plugs fit there. Russian sockets are roughly the same as Danish ones but without PE
Both Italy and Switzerland use 4 mm prongs. Originally everyone in Europe use them but other countries moved to 4.8 mm. Russia uses schuko though likely ungrounded ones are at least in old installations on dry rooms. Same in most European countries. Schuko was 4.8 mm from the beginning. Originally everyone has similar sockets with two prongs but then when they started to add grounding they made different choices.
@@okaro6595 4 mm pins never seem to have been used for plugs rated at more than 10 amps, in the old days only 6 amps. Germany had pre-Schuko 10 amp plugs with 4.8 mm pins. Initially Schuko was only rated at 10 amps too I think. I have some Schuko sockets from the 50s that are rated 10 amps rather than the usual (and very outdated) 10 A DC/16 A AC rating.
Lights have red wire for phase so you know it comes after a light switch. And its not always red wire, we once had to use violet wire for that same reason in Austria
I’m an electrician in the United States. Although I do think the British plug and the 240 volt system is superior, I prefer our conduit and wiring methods. That plastic flexible conduit looks atrocious and I bet it’s a real pain in the butt to pull wires through. We do have some conduit that looks exactly like it but it’s blue and we call it Smurf tube and we only use it for data cables or some concrete encased applications and not very long runs. Usually for stubbing voice and data cables from a motel room into the hallway ceiling, or up a concrete wall into the attic space to sleeve a section of Romex (twin and earth as you call it). Other than that, we use PVC hard pipe underground and in concrete, or galvanized metal conduit or mc cable for everything else. Romex is pretty much for residential and not much else.
It's not even a question of why Europe doesn't have one standard - it's why you'd install multiple standards in one house, unless it's to get say 400V for your MIG welder in your garage or something. Also the Type L is a disaster. Conduit is interesting, I think I'd rather have, if I was building my own house (and I plan to some day), drop ceilings and cable trays.. Just me? I do like pipe-in-pipe for water though - it's a crime we don't really do that in the UK..
The issue with the Italian system is to complexity that request quite high skilled installers and designers. Unfortunately just a little percentage of professionals are skilled properly
Lol you must be in love with Italy like I am being nearly Italian lol. Italy is 2 country's north and south. They have great ideas but health and safety is not as important to them as us. If you know someone or have money you can have what you like regardless of h&s. Its the Italian ways lol. We will worry about it tomorrow.
I spent a few weeks in quarantine in an Italian condo in a somewhat rural area not too long ago, and every time the power failed (which happened every few days), it'd trip the main breaker. What could cause that? I've never had the breaker trip due to a power outage here in Canada.
Much more similar with mainland EU. Everything makes sense. Isolator switches offer ZERO protection from anything. They literally never trip nor are they never OFF when fault or dangerous situation happens. I would like to hear reason, why UK uses isolation switches (for DC and AC of inverter, for appliances etc).
It's literally in the name - isolator. They are not protective devices, their only job is to electrically isolate the incoming and outgoing circuits from each other. They are meant to be operated in a zero-current state.
@@Jultsu Everyone talks about the "meant to be operated in the zero current state" but actually the specification for the devices allows them to be used as an interrupter.
You call two way and intermediate lighting wiring complicated...I'd hate to see what you'd call commercial panel wiring with PLC's, contactors and other specialised equipment in the panel.
Can someone please explain why so many relay switches (contactors) have been used? The design obviously works, but overall it seems to be overly complicated, with more components that will eventually fail.
Personally EFIXX, I don't have a problem with rings, however I would say, in the real world, how many people can discern issues or faults given the number of variable factors including test lead deterioration, dodgy dog clips and old/worn sockets where the reading is completely different between the left and the right hand sides and then is it a spur or isn't it... etc. R1+R2/4?.... have you found a ring within a ring...? Quite frankly you're on a price and often just grateful for a reading providing it's not too ridiculous. There's also a noticeable trend courtesy of the dandy boys on CZcams to rubbish anyone who twists their conductors together, yet you get a far more reliable joint in the terminal if you do that. How many times have I a taken off an accessory and a conductor, slipped into a terminal, simply pops out or in the case of a ring, is already hanging out. I'd like to know whether our foreign counterparts issue any electrical certificates upon completion and whether they ever carry out EICR's on their installations?
it's almost hard to believe this is in italy, the paint and plaster work at 16:39 is extremely sloppy by italian standards - a place where the best painters and plaster workers come from after all
Wow sod installing that lot . Way too complicated . I bet the DIYers over there don’t attempt to do their own electrics . Great video as always Gordon 👍
The cable wholesalers must be rubbing their hands with glee. Yes, if someone puts a nail through the wiring just that particular outlet would be requiring attention but each socket doesn't have it's own MCB/RCBO by the looks of it so all the sockets, at least in a given room, still go off anyway. Is it easier to pull 10-ish metres of 2.5mm through from the junction box or to pull 2m of 4mm or 6mm between sockets to effect repair, not to mention cost of the cable. But if it works for them, and everyone's happy with the bills...
@@efixx Do not forget, ring final is forbidden and dangerous due to many reasons. If it is fused centrally, then there is no need fuse in every single socket. I think EU wiring with fused UK sockets and US meter boxes would be a better combination. All the systems have good elements, but hard to change the practices. Like changing US to metric system.
@@gabor.nadudvari US overhead mains and linking the neutral and earth wires inside the main distribution board instead of linking them in the meter box? No, thanks😅
@@ReveilLunaire French, German and UK all have slightly different ideas, but they are easy to understand and logical. The Italian system is just weird, I see no benefits, just more complications and random boxes in walls.
@@ReveilLunaire The French are better at the consumer unit with DP breakers and twin bus bars. That is available in the UK but few use them. The main RCBO combined main switch replacing the main fuses is far better than the UK. They can be fitted in the UK and are available. French is all TT in houses. Far better than the C-S we use. There again you can ignore the supplied ground cable fitting your own ground rod. Apart from those points above, which we should standardise ASAP, the UK is better than France.
I have seen better, tidier, less hasty creations with greater use of cable ties and labels, this does not mean that it does not comply with the regulations even if in a couple of points I would have done differently, never mix conductors of different services and types, like TV cables and telephone or electrical or network cables they must always be separated everywhere, we also section the neutral, all single-phase protections are bipolar but only one pole is protected, so in the event of a fault on the neutral to earth, opening the thermal magnet we manage to switch off completely and avoid being in the dark for hours before an electrician arrives
every country has some despensation from harmonized regulations....but I would not trade the Italian/Spanish way of doing electrics to british...british is much safer,sturdy and future proofs...only thing I personaly think would be a thing to adopt is those relayes for two way and intermediate,to eliminarte partially of wiring...but then again,wiring will always be there...sooooo
The French Consumer Units are superior to the British. Although we appear to be moving over to their way - needs being made mandatory. They have DP breakers which means twin bus bars, and less wieing in the CU. The likes of Schneider sell them in the UK.
Part One - Italian Electrical Installation First Fix
czcams.com/video/jSdfJabUEUQ/video.html
Electrical Fault Finding in Italy - Omhero
czcams.com/video/mJHIBfJyjOQ/video.htmlsi=RvClZmuhlf72mGda
I would say Italy is an Electrical Manufacture's Paradise. It must cost home-owners a fortune for all those Conduit runs, DB's, & Relay's. A safe system, made over complicated. An Electrician will never be out of work over there. Thanks for sharing.
Probably a higher upfront cost but much easier to maintain moving forward. No need to keep changing consumer units.
Kinda seems like a renting property tho.. like apartments with shared pools etc.
Else it kinda would be weird to use both italian and eu sockets everywhere.
@@Woltox1as an italian electrician ill tell you that we normally have both plugs (italian one is way better tho)
It will save in future kitchen units being taken put amd walls being burst open to try repair a failed cable . You'd have to run cables during installation anyway so flexible conduit is not much different to run
@@Woltox1By "EU" you mean schuko? That's not EU, that's just German. There is no "EU" plug, although France/Switzerland (not everywhere)/Italy have the same.
Schuko is basically available everywhere too, but 's far from being European.
The socket with the double holes is to accept both a 10A plug (around 2Kw) and a 16A plug (around 3.5Kw). Some appliances like table lamps, phone chargers, tv's, use the 10A small plug. You can see that the shuko has larger holes close to the center to accept a male shuko plug, which wouldn't fit in the italian in-line one. 4:45 that is usually to indicate a "switched Phase". If i am not mistaken you can use colors like red, white, purple and so on as long as the colors aren't similar to the earth or neutral cable (can't use another shade of blue or green cables) to indicate phases that might be switched. It's common to find for example 2 white cables in between 2 single pole double throw switches. The relays to switch the lights is something that you usually find in new homes/new wiring. We also use the 2 single pole double throw or 2 double throw and one 4 way switch method. I noticed that when there are 3 to 4+ points to switch the lights, they just go with the relay setup (say for example the common lights on each floor of a condo, with a button on each floor and a time relay). All the Vimar smart stuff is also something you dont find in the typical residential home. The outdoor lighting is just done poorly.
Great information - Thanks
The back boxes are American, even down to the UNC 6-32 fixing screws, which are a nightmare to find if you're using those boxes outside Italy and need longer screws. Apparently Mr. Ticino, one of the founders of BTicino, went on a study trip to the US in the late 50s and was so impressed by the system that he introduced the boxes in Italy in the early 60s. Italy also has sizes that aren't used in the US. The ones in the video all seem to be 3 modules but you can get 4 and 7 modules too, and 6 (3+3), 14 (7+7) and 21 (7+7+7). Especially the larger boxes are atrociusly expensive compared to the round 60 mm ones used elsewhere in Europe. Round ones are around 20 cents each, while a 4 module Italian one costs €2.70 and a 7 module one 4.70. The round ones slot together for multi-gang switches and sockets, so you can just multiply the price with the number of accessories you need.
The non-IP rated sockets right against the sink definitely aren't a great idea, usually they're at least 300 mm above the sink and/or to the side.
The lighting controls are on a KNX-based bus system, so only a two-wire bus cable runs to all the "switches", I think one cable can serve up to 128 devices. Very flexible but requires programming, so a lot of effort to install. If I remember correctly (it's been almost 20 years since I learned about KNX/EIB), each actor and sensor is assigned an address on the computer (a bit like pairing a bluetooth device), then it's assigned a function. The switches are considered sensors (because they provide an input) and the devices in the CU that do the actual switching are actors.
I can't really see why you'd need that in a home, unless you wanted to add advanced automation. In an office setting where you expect partitions to be moved all the time to accomodate various needs for smaller or larger rooms it makes a lot of sense though, you can move lights to different switches as you please. In this case the KNX might be used for load management, which makes some sense.
Austria uses the same style of flexible conduit installs but solid conductors up to 6 mm2, coarse stranded 10 mm2 and up. Using flexible conductors makes life a bit easier but solid works too. The regs allow for flexible conductors (class 5) but most switches and sockets have push-in terminals that aren't rated for class 5 (marked with a little r somewhere on the accessory). Italian accessories have a type of terminal that clamps the wire between a solid plate and a square nut, a bit like a cage clamp, which doesn't require ferrules. Perhaps that's why screw terminals are still so popular in Italy. Ferrules are generally only required if the wire is contacted by a screw tip or head.
In Italy you are allowed to use for the phase conductor any other color that is not currently reserved for other functions (such as blue or green/yellow). This is particularly useful to identify switched circuits when they run trough the same boxes (for example in your case the light was made with the red color after the switch to distinguish it from the permanent live). For phase conductors that are not interrupted I think the new regulation now suggest to use gray, black or brown. Of course in a single phase installation you can use any of the 3 colors for the same phase (since you have only one) and that is useful to distinguish different circuits (e.g. sockets from lights).
Regarding looping out of the sockets, you were in the past allowed to do that only to a maximum of 2 or 3 boxes in series. Now I think regulation is changed and allows it always provided you are in the same room. In reality that is a bad practice, because the resistance of all the terminals adds up, and thus usually a star wiring is used, and there is also the voltage drop to be considered for the amount of cable (a maximum of 2% is allowed to the furthest socket). The looping terminals are used only to connect to sockets inside the same box (that is allowed without limitations).
Also, 3 phase is rarely used. Most houses have a single phase connection, but for new installations with heat pump and induction cookers 3 phase is becoming popular even in residential.
Good to know thank you.
You must hate NYM / NYY cables in Italy 😅
And how was the wine? That’s the important question. Bellissimo video! Lo adoro!
il vino era fantastico
As a non Italian, the straight / 3 in-line Italian plug is an older standard. In comes in 2 flavours, the smaller one is limited to I believe 1500W, while the larger one is up to 3000W. That's what I remember being told when I asked about it.
The larger plug is beafy and I would say almost on par with the UK plug. A great bit of design.
10Ampere / 16Ampere @230V
Apparently the 10 amp variety was originally intended for lighting circuits (flat rate calculated based on the number of light bulbs) while the 16 amp one was for "power" equipment, on a metered supply as we know it today. Schuko is fairly common in Italy but doesn't seem likely to replace the Italian sockets anytime soon. You can get 10 amp sockets, 16 amp sockets, combined 10/16 amp ones (as shown in the video), 10 A/Schuko sockets (Schuko with an additional hole for the Italian earth pin) and "universale" (Schuko, 10 A, 16 A). The latter is slightly dubious because you can touch the pins of a partly inserted Schuko plug. 16 amp plugs are fairly uncommon, I've been to places where the washing machine was the only appliance that had one, so if you fit your whole house with 10 A/Schuko sockets (P30) you've got most of your needs covered.
after the supplier's meter there are differential and magneto-thermal protections, each house has its own story depending on whether it is new etc., 10A is used for lights and 10A sockets, various types of distribution are used, sometimes in renovations use a single 16A per room which is both the light and the socket, it is difficult to exceed 10A (2300W) with the lights even when they were incandescent, they are a known and predictable absorption, not like for the sockets, the legislation allows it, same what is rare is to exceed 3680W on the sockets, the 16A the bivalent or schuko ones, we have the 16A trivalent which does all 3 types, another typology from the past was a 16 socket circuit, a 10A lighting circuit, in large houses the area is divided day from the sleeping area, for a total of 4 circuits, mostly to give the possibility of having something that works in the event of a fault, then additional circuits for heating, air conditioning, kitchen, etc., many old houses only have two circuits, one for the sockets and one for the lights, 10A is generally used for 1.5mm square conductors which is the minimum section required by law, for 16A 2.5mm square is used, then it depends on the type of installation and length, the diameter
@@Ragnar8504 here there was the 220V three-phase distribution where between phase and phase there was 220Volt and between phase and neutral there was 110V, from here the two circuits called light and driving force were born, only the light bulbs were 110Volt, then abandoned for the 230Volt only
@@winterburan You mean 127 V, right? Using different plugs for different voltages absolutely makes sense.
I seem to remember that some parts of Italy still derive 230 V from a 133/230 V three-phase system, as do parts of Spain and Belgium.
Thoroughly enjoyed this video Gordon thank you. 👏👏
In some ways of wiring they do things completely different to us in the UK.
Can't wait for the next Italian video 👍
Thanks Chris - watch out for a competition soon to win a trip to Italy.
Regarding the sockets close the basins. I was once at a French Ski chalet, and in a large cloakroom/storage area, over the wash basin, where you would normally expect a mirror, was the main distribution board for the property. Old ceramic fuses on a big wooden board.
Now we know where Nick Bundy goes on holiday!
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣definetly
Will definitely need another trip to Puglia to see how it all works in the summer with the solar kit and maybe test the conductivity of the pool water!
I’m in 👍
If you think about it, it makes sense running each individual socket if there’s a case where you’d ever want to separate them onto different circuits if you have RCD tripping because of highly current or something it would be really easy to do
My property in Italy has all BS 1362 then adaptors, all electrical accessories/ fittings are expensive and because of the modular system not interchangeable. Yeah love the relays for multi way lighting, however can be annoying in the middle of the night with that clicking noise every time someone turns a light on. Who be interesting to know how dangerous it really is to have a socket so close to sink / basin.
The only electric shock I had was from the washing machine in a bathroom, cos the my mum call out an Italian electrician because the Rcd keep tripping so he disconnected the earth🫣
Yeah happens a lot on kitchen sinks with dishwashers too . Earth leakage shocks when poor connections are made
@@christophergallagher3845 They leak a lot of current so they must be on a dedicated circuit to avoid nuisance tripping.
3:18 That actually is not a schuko but a combo that accepts both schuko and Italian sockets.
In the Continental Europe all countries with the exception of Denmark Italy and Switzerland use either Schuko or Belgian style sockets. Modern plugs work on either one. In Denmark an Italy schuko is increasingly used. However, the Europlug that is used on small double insulated devices work on all of the sockets.
Jeez adding to the confusion. Just pick one and go for it. Or perhaps time to adapt the UK system 😉 Great information thanks for sharing
@@efixx CEE 7/x is by far the dominant system in Europe, with most plugs fitting both German and French style sockets. So the only outliers are Italy and Denmark (Schuko codified in national standards alongside older local types) and Switzerland (unlikely to ever change, Schuko may be installed but only if enough Swiss sockets are installed side by side). And of course the four BS 1363 countries that aren't likely to change anytime soon either.
Denmark made the odd choice of accepting both German and Belgian/French style CEE 7 sockets instead of picking one, we'll see where that's going. Their old system has the massive downside of sockets accepting German and French plugs without making an earth connection but both plug types are extremely common in Denmark.
@@efixx most cords here (NL, BE, DE, FR, PL, PT, ES, and a couple more) have a plug that fits both the "Schuko" and the pin-earth Belgian/French) sockets.
In some counties the regulations allow you to use a socket of your own choice, BS1363, Schuko , pin-earth, of even Swiss or Italian types would be all fine to use.
For example in The Netherlands, most people assume only the NEN-1010 is allowed to be used, but since it's not a publicly available, and the law mentions "or of a equivalent safety level", you are allowed to use the IEC regulations, or a derivative such as, Belgian AREI, German VDE, French NF, or even the UK's BS regulations.
We also have one main distribution box and 5 consume units for different floors and the garage.
Always wondered what's the deal of those many isolators you guys install :D You can just isolate a circuit by switching off it's MCB.
We are starting to think the same!
I think the reason why we fit isolators is because UK MCBs are often single-pole, DP isolators are then required to provide DP isolation? If a duel pole RCBO is used then maybe isolators are not needed providing the consumer unit is close by?
@@GlynHudson According to IEC 60364, isolating the live wire in TN systems are enough, because neutral and earth are always on the same potential(0V). Obviously only in normal, not faulty state.
Even more so if the MCB is two pole.
@@liam3284
Which is rare and not standardised.
Those conduit boxes in the wall are just mind blowing to me, its so much more practical then the way we do it in the netherlands.
They dont need a isolator.
Becauase they can isolate at the board.
Uk 1 pole breakers only phase, not safe for isolation.
Italy 2 pole breakers (phase and neutral) safe for isolation.
Interestingly you came across Finder step relays which I have used extensively. Using Scolmore retractive switching on Cat6 cabling with 24vDC to control allows the householder ultimate choice of what they want to switch.
italian big and small 3 pin are a bit tedious to deal with, when you rent an apartment there, but its mostly down to some places only having 10a supplies. feels like the big ones are generally only in the kitchen for kettles etc.
The Sockets in the bathroom should stay 60 cm away from the edge of the sink, according to CEI 64-8 (and EN)
A 60 cm dal bordo della doccia o della vasca, dal lavandino non ce un obbligo preciso, vale il buonsenso!
It is too deep for me too. I self use minimum 50 cm over the water basin or down under it for the local water heater.
That consumer unit 0:39 is beautiful.
We in Poland do wiring pretty much similar, nice video!
I think house building in the Uk is about 50 years behind most of Europe. We are still obsessed with cramming lots of circuits into tiny consumer units in ridiculous locations. If we designed our house similar to what we have seen here . I think this would help combat the zero emissions problem as well as making EV charging more readily available to everyone.
Exactly 👍
Yeah consumer units under stairs or directly above front door . Or in tiny cupboards built around it with barely enough space to get the front cover off the consumer unit . The placement of consumer units and dno cut outs in domestic properties in the UK is pretty bad
Can't tell you the amount of times I've had to inform a client their cupboard is going to have to be dismantled for work on their board . They're never happy and even less happy when realise they need a joiner to replace it .
The power distribution seems a bit unwieldy compared to bus bars.
Such a superb install
Very interesting, thanks!
I work on alot of Italian plant and it seems to be some decent accessories mixed with some poor wiring methods, they also use alot of flexible cables for fixed wiring and some of it has an aluminium braid under the outer sheath
If you guys want to make a video about dutch electrical wiring, i would like to show you guys around the Netherlands to let you look at dutch electrical work.
Yes we’d love to do that we already have plans to visit Belgium later this year. - drop me an email - gordon@efixx.co.uk
@efixx Gordon, you should still have my email also.
Latest addition over here:
TV over IP (so Cat 6 cabling)
That means I only have coax up to my modem and from there only Cat cable.
Ik heb ze een jaar of 2 geleden al gemaild maar dat ligt nu ongeveer al een jaar stil.
I wish we had rectangular back boxes that are deep here in Greece. They use these round, shallow boxes where the schuoko outlets are held in by wings which fail to grip the plastic box. The electrician who wired my basement level placed all of the light and fan switches outside the bathroom, not upstairs, I had the electrician place switches inside the bathrooms. As for shock hazard I have a whole house GFCI feeding the mains on the panel box that each level has. If they sense any inbalance in the system they trip. So each level has its own GFCI breaker as well. To add icing to the cake I also have an American 120 volt 60Hz wiring in my home to handle my American appliances and tools.
I refuse to use any Chinese inverters for my solar system. If it is internet connected it is a security hazard and because of my work requirements. It’s a back door into everything in my home, NO BUENO.
I purchased a house 18 years ago and found the wiring to be all black throughout the house. I am slowly replacing the wires and adding wifi switches to work in parallel with my relays throughout the house. I created plates with all the components and relays mounted over the JB because it's too small.
I think the isolators can be overkill and can also not be because if the appliances and cable are appropriately rated to all be side of the same supply it does negate the need for some of the isolators to be fused. I think isolated are good although no one should be doing it, it would allow someone to change out an appliance who is not technically qualified and to do it relatively safely which I think a good idea because they’re going to do it anyway so why not make it safe?
I saw that there are two wires with different diameters are put together in one connection in the consumer box. Don’t think the thinner ones are making a very good connection.
Taking each socket cable back to a junction box reminds me of an installation I came across a number of years ago.
*All* sockets were single with each on its own 1.5mm cable. All cables went back to a big junction box. All socket cables went into a terminal strip then one 6mm cable back to the Consumer unit above. The guy had big drums of 1.5mm cable free or very cheap. Lights in 1.5mm, oven on 4mm or 6mm. Worked very well.
Easy to fault find for sure.
Is it still a radial circuit? Well, it is but I don't think it is called a radial circuit 😅
@@Mixolixplosion
Yes a radial. Not a ring for sure.
I used to do wiring in France and I like the system better than the UK.
I do a lot of eicrs in the uk iin domestic properties . Almost every fuseboard cupboard is full with jackets shoes old matresses etc etc crammed against the board and the meter , total fire hazard . But its ok as long as consumer unit made of metal right ? 😮
Well, that's awesome.
I like you're saying why we can't agree of one socket type.
We agreed in the early 90 to raise from 220V to 230V and you British should lower from 240V to 230V but I don't think the last part happened, you are still using 240/415V so I think we can agree one who's the most difficult here!!?
The standard voltage in the UK is 230 / 400 and has been for some time, although in practice it's still higher, especially now we have so much solar floating around. We also changed our wiring colours from red, yellow, blue, black to brown, black,grey and blue. Time for the EU to adopt ur ring circuits and over engineered plugs. 🤣🇬🇧
Well we somehow convinced the EU to adopt this wonky standard to accommodate us. 230 V+10%/−6%. Been suffering from some European brands GU10 lamps dying ever since, specially when local solar can push it up to 250 and beyond.
The point of the harmonization wasn't to actually change the voltage (these often remained the same) but to ensure that goods manuacturered for the EU market would be designed to function correctly on either 220 or 240v (or anywhere within the 230 +10% -6% range. Can't really change the voltages too much as older equipment might fail when exposed to a higher or lower voltage than was designed for (or have shortened lifespan).
@@efixx
British plugs are over engineered? Please! The best by a country mile. Saudi Arabia standardised on the British G Type.
@@efixx
Final ring circuits are superb. Simple and ingenious. A friend was renovating his two bedroomed apartment. Short of money as he had just bought it. He *had* to fit expensive AFDD protection. I advised one 4mm ring for all. Sockets, oven, induction hob, the lot. And one 1.00mm lighting circuit. All legal and works a treat. Cheap with the best protection.
Any chance you could do a video on the energy monitors with the contacts for the UK I'd be interested in that
We have some content coming soon.
@@efixx sounds great can't wait. Keep up to great content guys👍💪
The phase colours brown, black and grey are not used, when the phase is switched for lighting purposes. The wire outlet with the red wire is for a lamp, that's why the wire is red.
Could you take a look at some of the cheap Chinese no name brand? RCD is particularly of the most expensive type but conduct the proper safety testing to actually see if they would work.
Our school hasn't got wiring that complicated 😮
it looks complicated but in some ways it's much easier.
Originally Italy had its own sockets that accept Italian plugs with 10A or 16A. These have different pin spacing. Italy now also uses modified Schuko sockets, which also accept the Italian and European plugs.
There are also French sockets with a grounding pin. These are also used in Belgium, Poland and the Czech Republic.
If it weren't for the licensing fees for the Schuko plug, more countries would not have used the French plug.
In addition to its own sockets, Denmark is now also introducing French sockets. The PE is not connected with Danish sockets and European plugs this happens frequently.
The European 3-pin combination plug fits into Schuko and French sockets.
Switzerland has its own system. Only narrow Euro plugs fit there.
Russian sockets are roughly the same as Danish ones but without PE
Both Italy and Switzerland use 4 mm prongs. Originally everyone in Europe use them but other countries moved to 4.8 mm. Russia uses schuko though likely ungrounded ones are at least in old installations on dry rooms. Same in most European countries. Schuko was 4.8 mm from the beginning.
Originally everyone has similar sockets with two prongs but then when they started to add grounding they made different choices.
@@okaro6595 4 mm pins never seem to have been used for plugs rated at more than 10 amps, in the old days only 6 amps. Germany had pre-Schuko 10 amp plugs with 4.8 mm pins. Initially Schuko was only rated at 10 amps too I think. I have some Schuko sockets from the 50s that are rated 10 amps rather than the usual (and very outdated) 10 A DC/16 A AC rating.
That’s one hell of a lot of copper to get the job done! Easy to fix things when someone puts a nail through a cable tho!
What ever happened to harmonisation ? It seems the UK is the only country to introduce it!
It is strange, that a showcase video is full off EN 60364 violation.
What is the violation?
Lights have red wire for phase so you know it comes after a light switch. And its not always red wire, we once had to use violet wire for that same reason in Austria
Do you not think the c unit door is very squeaked
I’m an electrician in the United States. Although I do think the British plug and the 240 volt system is superior, I prefer our conduit and wiring methods. That plastic flexible conduit looks atrocious and I bet it’s a real pain in the butt to pull wires through. We do have some conduit that looks exactly like it but it’s blue and we call it Smurf tube and we only use it for data cables or some concrete encased applications and not very long runs. Usually for stubbing voice and data cables from a motel room into the hallway ceiling, or up a concrete wall into the attic space to sleeve a section of Romex (twin and earth as you call it). Other than that, we use PVC hard pipe underground and in concrete, or galvanized metal conduit or mc cable for everything else. Romex is pretty much for residential and not much else.
It’s not really that hard to pull wiring, as said in the video we use class 5 conductors that are finely stranded.
It's not even a question of why Europe doesn't have one standard - it's why you'd install multiple standards in one house, unless it's to get say 400V for your MIG welder in your garage or something. Also the Type L is a disaster. Conduit is interesting, I think I'd rather have, if I was building my own house (and I plan to some day), drop ceilings and cable trays.. Just me? I do like pipe-in-pipe for water though - it's a crime we don't really do that in the UK..
Flexible conduits for outdoor installation, in that way, aren't contemplated by EN and CEI
This seems like a big posh setup, what is the setup like in the average Italian home?
They start like this czcams.com/video/mJHIBfJyjOQ/video.htmlsi=wSdjEInOcP5u2o4j
distribution boards, and then section boards.
The issue with the Italian system is to complexity that request quite high skilled installers and designers. Unfortunately just a little percentage of professionals are skilled properly
Plastic consumer box?
Spaghetti electrics !
Ha that took a minute but I got there in the end 😂
Lol you must be in love with Italy like I am being nearly Italian lol. Italy is 2 country's north and south. They have great ideas but health and safety is not as important to them as us. If you know someone or have money you can have what you like regardless of h&s. Its the Italian ways lol. We will worry about it tomorrow.
"They have great ideas but health and safety is not as important to them as us"
farnetichi...
I spent a few weeks in quarantine in an Italian condo in a somewhat rural area not too long ago, and every time the power failed (which happened every few days), it'd trip the main breaker. What could cause that? I've never had the breaker trip due to a power outage here in Canada.
You have a 24kw supply in Canada in Italy supplies start at 3kw
Overload. Don't turn on the air conditioner while your washing machine is running, etc 😅
10:34 skibidy no ground port!!!
Work in progress when we visited the site .
Looks similar to knx automation
Strong Deja vu vibes from this video.
Much more similar with mainland EU. Everything makes sense. Isolator switches offer ZERO protection from anything. They literally never trip nor are they never OFF when fault or dangerous situation happens. I would like to hear reason, why UK uses isolation switches (for DC and AC of inverter, for appliances etc).
It's literally in the name - isolator. They are not protective devices, their only job is to electrically isolate the incoming and outgoing circuits from each other. They are meant to be operated in a zero-current state.
@@Jultsu Everyone talks about the "meant to be operated in the zero current state" but actually the specification for the devices allows them to be used as an interrupter.
Guys. Even in Poland we have more advanced and way better made installations than in UK. UK needs updates asap😅
Going by the Polish guys in the UK. I would not let them near a pipe or a cable.
@@johnburns4017 probably these peoples are not sparks or plumbers. I cam tell a lot about english tradesman's as well.
You call two way and intermediate lighting wiring complicated...I'd hate to see what you'd call commercial panel wiring with PLC's, contactors and other specialised equipment in the panel.
I wouldn’t struggle but many electricians do.
Why go to all that trouble putting everything on din rail terminals and then putting a rats nest in the wall
czech republic here we have schuko not allowed if im not mistaken (aint no electrician)
Can someone please explain why so many relay switches (contactors) have been used? The design obviously works, but overall it seems to be overly complicated, with more components that will eventually fail.
To deter DIYers maybe 😅
Hairy Jesus can you imagine doing an EICR on that lot....😮
no ring finals!
Personally EFIXX, I don't have a problem with rings, however I would say, in the real world, how many people can discern issues or faults given the number of variable factors including test lead deterioration, dodgy dog clips and old/worn sockets where the reading is completely different between the left and the right hand sides and then is it a spur or isn't it... etc.
R1+R2/4?.... have you found a ring within a ring...?
Quite frankly you're on a price and often just grateful for a reading providing it's not too ridiculous.
There's also a noticeable trend courtesy of the dandy boys on CZcams to rubbish anyone who twists their conductors together, yet you get a far more reliable joint in the terminal if you do that. How many times have I a taken off an accessory and a conductor, slipped into a terminal, simply pops out or in the case of a ring, is already hanging out.
I'd like to know whether our foreign counterparts issue any electrical certificates upon completion and whether they ever carry out EICR's on their installations?
it's almost hard to believe this is in italy, the paint and plaster work at 16:39 is extremely sloppy by italian standards - a place where the best painters and plaster workers come from after all
We don’t think Michael Angello started off doing a few coats of emulsion 🖼️🧑🎨
I can imagine standards are a bit different in the south?
@@efixx haha nah, i'm talking about construction workers, in europe if you want the best ones you get italians.
Completely ridiculous. And what is "complex" about two way and intermediate switching?
Quite surprising people find this difficult to understand , even worse when there is more intermediate switches .
The Italian wiring method doesn’t directly run between switches. Going via the junction box would be more complicated than the UK method.
Wow sod installing that lot . Way too complicated . I bet the DIYers over there don’t attempt to do their own electrics .
Great video as always Gordon 👍
The secret of Italian electric wiring: chaos.
No me gusta nada 😉
The cable wholesalers must be rubbing their hands with glee. Yes, if someone puts a nail through the wiring just that particular outlet would be requiring attention but each socket doesn't have it's own MCB/RCBO by the looks of it so all the sockets, at least in a given room, still go off anyway. Is it easier to pull 10-ish metres of 2.5mm through from the junction box or to pull 2m of 4mm or 6mm between sockets to effect repair, not to mention cost of the cable. But if it works for them, and everyone's happy with the bills...
Seems to be the same across many European countries.
@@efixx Do not forget, ring final is forbidden and dangerous due to many reasons. If it is fused centrally, then there is no need fuse in every single socket. I think EU wiring with fused UK sockets and US meter boxes would be a better combination. All the systems have good elements, but hard to change the practices. Like changing US to metric system.
@@gabor.nadudvari US overhead mains and linking the neutral and earth wires inside the main distribution board instead of linking them in the meter box? No, thanks😅
They don't believe in metalclad D/B then .
Mainly concrete construction so fire spread isn’t a big issue.
British house bashers could never work it ouut
It really makes you think that UK systems are far better, far less equipment and copper. Brown flexi cable 😂😂😂😂
French system is far better than UK system...sorry but it is true!
Are you from France by chance?
@@ReveilLunaire French, German and UK all have slightly different ideas, but they are easy to understand and logical. The Italian system is just weird, I see no benefits, just more complications and random boxes in walls.
@@ReveilLunaire
The French are better at the consumer unit with DP breakers and twin bus bars. That is available in the UK but few use them.
The main RCBO combined main switch replacing the main fuses is far better than the UK. They can be fitted in the UK and are available.
French is all TT in houses. Far better than the C-S we use. There again you can ignore the supplied ground cable fitting your own ground rod.
Apart from those points above, which we should standardise ASAP, the UK is better than France.
A lot of misinformation and wrong observations in this video. Doesn’t even know what a forbox connector is 🤷🏻♂️.
I have seen better, tidier, less hasty creations with greater use of cable ties and labels, this does not mean that it does not comply with the regulations even if in a couple of points I would have done differently, never mix conductors of different services and types, like TV cables and telephone or electrical or network cables they must always be separated everywhere, we also section the neutral, all single-phase protections are bipolar but only one pole is protected, so in the event of a fault on the neutral to earth, opening the thermal magnet we manage to switch off completely and avoid being in the dark for hours before an electrician arrives
every country has some despensation from harmonized regulations....but I would not trade the Italian/Spanish way of doing electrics to british...british is much safer,sturdy and future proofs...only thing I personaly think would be a thing to adopt is those relayes for two way and intermediate,to eliminarte partially of wiring...but then again,wiring will always be there...sooooo
It’s amazing between to intent and reality of harmonised standards. How buildings are constructed makes a big difference.
The French Consumer Units are superior to the British. Although we appear to be moving over to their way - needs being made mandatory.
They have DP breakers which means twin bus bars, and less wieing in the CU. The likes of Schneider sell them in the UK.
can you go to Germany? we do everything so differently (better😘)
Yes we just need to find an electrician and project.
Oh my god what a mess
Italian sistem is shity , german is the best!
Apart from the German plugs. British polarised plugs are best.
7:25 that tube is not for outside
15:42 that is for outside
10:54 two terminals in the same clamp, it SUCKS
What mess. Again highlights the need for a complete redesign of boards and protective devices.
I think flexibility is the key.