How to sand 3D prints| Finish 3D prints faster 3D printing like a pro | boba fett 3D printed helmet
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- čas přidán 21. 08. 2021
- Thanks for tuning into todays video!
Congratulations to our contest winner today fred jones!
Be sure to email me at darkwing_dad850@yahoo.com to claim your prize!
Below is a video index for specific parts of the video for reference, i've also added some links of products I used which helped get these fantastic results.
Be sure to check out mystery makers & marko's great designs here
www.etsy.com/shop/MysteryMake...
Also be sure to check his facebook group out "Mystery makers- 3dprint, cosplay, props"
Be sure to check back for part 2 of boba, ill cover proper paint, weathering, masking,shading, airbrushing & more!
Thank you so much to all my subscribers! if you're not subscribed be sure to smash that subscribe button & join the DW crew! Until next time DW out!
Video index
Intro & the process 00:28
Ear pieces and overture pla results 01:20
after sanding & inspection 02:10
Body filler vs glazing putty & when/ when not to use it 03:35
Boba helmet before sanding, inspection & game plan 05:24
Proper sanding tips with palm sander 07:00
Sanding areas you cant reach with sander 08:35
The future of 3d printing/post sand inspection 09:40
Bondo body filler vs plastic metal and why its better 10:30
Post plastic metal sanding inspection 14:30
Glazing putty applied, post inspection & what to look for to ensure its smooth 15:45
Sanding tips, solvents explained & why you shouldn't wet sand pla or primer 17:50
Using 2 colored primers to identify pla lines & effectively remove them (my method) 19:00
Showing how my method shows the pla lines + importance of letting primers cure 20:50
Last shots of boba before paint 23:00
Final comments, closing & a big thank you! 25:52
Whats next? sneak peak of painted boba & more 27:50
Products used
Bondo plastic metal
amzn.to/3sCf6Pj
Wagner paint booth
amzn.to/3B4VtCg
Bondo filler primer
amzn.to/3sFtzKn
Bondo glazing putty
amzn.to/3sDEKD6
6 count case of putty (best price $6/ tube)
amzn.to/381LbXj
Rustoleum/krylon filler primer
amzn.to/3goK5Jy
The Bondo putty (I use a similar one from 3M because it's hard to get Bondo in my country) dissolves in acetone. This means, you can titerally thin it down with acetone, to a consistency of like Tabasco sauce. The result is something like a brush-on putty, which goes really deep into the PLA lines and bonds way batter than pure outty.
I usually give the print just a rough handsand 180, use pure putty for really deep spots. After curing I start to liberally apply thinned putty with a 30mm brush. The acretone accelerates the curing, so after half an hout you can apply a second coat etc. Usually 2 medium heavy coats are enough.
I usually let it stand to cure over night, but that's just me being patient ;-)
When cured I handsand with 220. Next step is wetsanding with 800 - wetsanding because it doesn't clog up the sandpaper. Personally, again, because I'm fussy, I wetsand with 1200, which gets the thing close to mirror sheen before even applying a filler primer.
I honestly try not to use machines for sanding though. A machine can friction heat the filament if you manage to get through all the putty and can damage the print. But wetsanding, because it keeps the sandpaper "sharp" indefinitely, is'nt that far behind regarding time, since you'll have to do many parts and areas via hand anyway.
I don't have WIP videos in my channel but some videos of pretty good results with this technique (not just 3d printed stuff).
Check out my more recent videos on post processing
@@Darkwingdad Yeah, I liked the idea to thin the putty down to spray it. I might try that in my spraygun, but my airbrushes are too fine for such work - and too expensive to risk.
What I like about the brush on technique is, it seems to go way deeper into the layer lines. Downside is of course that it's not as smooth and needs more sanding
My $.02: I've been experimenting with different coatings and techniques for a while to get smooth prints - on large and small prints - and I've settled on a good-quality 2-part urethane high-build filler primer by Speedokote (SS-2790W/SS-2790A Super Fill High Build Primer). It builds very quickly, wet-sands like a dream (no paper clogging, no crumbling, feathers beautifully) cures very quickly (depends on how you thin it) is easy to chase details back in where necessary, and is just really nice to work with. I find that in some parts of the models (depending on spray orientation), the primer will fill in the layer lines and lay down - so no sanding required. Yes, it's a two-part urethane and requires a spray gun and urethane reducer - so you'll need a mask and an area with good airflow to spray in, but after trying a dozen different methods, this is the one that really ends up being the least amount of work and gives some really great results.
I use slick sand which is a 2 part filler, probably super similar to what your using. Cost,set up, clean up are all deterrents of hobbyist. Won’t argue with the efficiency of them which is why I use it. I’ve perfect this method in my most recent video & it works great for those who can’t do hvlp set ups & want an easy clean up
Absolutely fantastic video with lots of great details! Haha man i can relate to that bondo body filler mixing wrong haha. Will have to checkout that Bondo Metal
Great to have you commenting! It really is a fantastic product that’s easy to work with, try it you won’t regret it, any questions just give me a shout!
Thanks DW Dad! This was very informative and great job!
Thank you rick!
This is awesome! Thanks DW!
Thanks David & for watching!
Things that i use: CARD SCRAPERS. They are just so amazing that they deserve to be fully capitalized. Then woodfiller, then sanding. The amount of sandpaper i've saved alone makes card scrapers superior, but they are also at least four times as fast, depending on the shape. They work with PLA the best, it is sufficiently hard to be smoothed by card scrapers that are meant for harder woods (wood filaments especially are like made for this method, PETG and PLA+ are not so good as they are more elastic, the scraper tends to jump and jitter). They are also easy to DIY, any sharp 90 degree metal can be rolled to form a scraper edge. I made my own miniature scrapers from large stainless steel tweezers. The edge is good for months, and you can make more and less aggressive versions for removing a lot of material (which is how i do most big holes and friction fit parts to get them exactly right) and less aggressive for final finish. Oh, and the best part: card scrapers do not heat the material. All the heat is in the chips as those deform and then are removed... So, you can go as much as you want on just small area, no need to think about heat. And they never clog.
I use woodfiller since it is cheap and waterbased, it is just very fine gypsum powder. No need for ventilation but it does creta quite a bit of dust so surgical mask at least is adviseable. Trick: do not blow! Ever! Keep moist rag beside you at all times and wipe the dust, and rinse the cloth when it needs to be rinsed. Cuts at least half of dust from landing EVERYWHERE.. Gypsum dust is not fun thing, it is somewhat abrasive and goes.. everywhere. Woodfiller is easy to work with, you can retain a lot of the details, just because it will be sanded first, before plastic. Thinning it with 70/30 IPA/water mix makes it easy to brush, to get thinner layers. I've never had any problems of it coming off, it sticks fairly well but of course, needs to be painted and coated, it is quite soft stuff. And as it is waterbased, no toxic fumes, it is also fairly fast drying (do not use heat, let it dry in room temps or it will form cracks)
And fully agree with the video, let things dry. The longer you let them dry, the easier the sanding becomes. You want to sand something that is hard, not something that is gooey. With waterbased stuff it is extra important as PLA hydrolyses over time if it has water in it, your model becomes more brittle as the polymers snap shorter and shorter. Let it dry overnight, then sand it, prime it, let that cure for hours. It is slower process but overall much less work, time is doing lot of the work for you, so let it do that work.
Do you end up removing the shape of for example round areas from scraping off more in some areas as compared to others?
"We're going to Wakanda, you wanna come?" Love it! Great video. Thanks for sharing.
Lol thanks
@Darkwing dad I think I've mentioned this before, you're a good dad. Cheers, man.
Great tips man! I'm getting ready to fill and sand my Djarin armor and this video helps a lot! you earned my sub sir! This is the way...
Love to hear it! This is the way!
It's like a where's Waldo... I see gladiator helm, I see Rocketeer, and joey and Suzie and... Lol
Great video thanks
Never ending projects, what can I say lol
OMG don't know how I missed this Lil Z!! I'm so sorry for the slow response shout out to you from your #1 fan and subscriber!! You rock buddy 👍
Hey man , all the love from india. Love the information you throw in your videos.
Wow! Thanks mehul! That’s a global shootout! Thank you for watching my friend!
Shoutout to your DOOM mask back there... ALL CAPS! I'm working on a Modern Post-Imperial kit for the Naast chapter of Mando Mercs and your videos have been VERY helpful!
RIP to the king DOOM! Glad you are enjoying the vids. Next weeks video & my suit update video will highlight 2 new products, not bondo, not store bought but boy are they great, thank you for watching, good luck on the build!
@@Darkwingdad I had never heard of plastic Metal or even had it recommended to me in all my years of cosplaying. THIS is a game-changer because I always had that "fast cure" issue with two part bondo.... I even used the fiberglass sheets and gel resin to try and make it easier, but you came along and showed me a new way
@@marquysejackson5706 the thing I notice in 3D print/cosplay is there is SO MUCH misconception and misinformation. Right now the IT thing to do is using sla resin because it’s been showcased on a huge channel. Personally I tried it back in 2019 & hated it! All you have to do is apply a thin coat of plastic metal-sand & it saves so much time. It sands down so easy with 80/120. I’ve stopped using traditional bondo body filler, plastic metal is the way to go.
@@Darkwingdad you're 100% correct on that! most of my go-to techniques and materials are unconventional since I don't have a printer, myself. but, I'm definitely going to be referring to your videos, in the future. I like how your brain works. thanks again!
Great video! I learned a lot. I'm going to give the Bondo plastic and plastic filler a try,
Try the plastic metal with acetone brushed on…even better!
@@Darkwingdad I will give it a try! I used glazing spot putty on my last three clone helmets. But, i ended up doing multiple rounds, just like you said. I'm currently building a Bo-Katan. So, what do you mean by acetone brushed on? Do I apply the putty, brush on the acetone, let it dry, and then sand?
@@dianawolftorres8594 czcams.com/video/tZPEnGgQvAQ/video.html
Here’s the video explaining the process.
Fantastic video!
Thanks Dave & thanks for watching!
Thank you very much for the video, awesome detail and definitely gonna try plastic metal, I am planning to try to print/paint Boba as well as a few other helmets thank you for the great content! Showing pics at each stage I find very beneficial so I have a rough idea what to be looking for as I progress
Thank you for watching!
26:10 What’s wrong with wood filler, in your opinion? Could you elaborate? 😮
Wood filler is either water based or oil based. This can create numerous issues from expanding & contracting which causing cracking to adhesion issues of top coat paints when an oil based filler is used. Another big issue is people don’t know which one they are using and they thin it down with water, adding a solute of such will alter cure times and the catalyst which allows it to harden. This creates a more porous filler, the solvents in things like primers and paints can be absorbed in and cause numerous problems from cracking,lifting & paint leeching(discoloration) of paint. Wood fillers have evolved over time and some have polyester additives however they still will not & are not meant to bond to thermo plastics & really are just meant to be stained with things like wood stain.
The king of the short wood filler cannot handle heavy solvents that are in primers,paints & clears & it being incredibly porous and absorbent in nature makes it susceptible to problem when these solvents gas & cure.
Understand that in 3D printing you are doing minor auto motive repair in a sense. The products that I use & recommend have been used on urethane’s,metals,fiberglass substrates & more for decades… they’ll definitely work on plastic. Of course to each there own, but I try to teach people to use products and techniques that are full proof & efficient. Just know I’ve made a lot of props that are both displayed & worn and never had issues when using my methods & these same methods are being used in the auto industry on cars driven thousands of miles yearly. I hope this helps & my son & I are big fans of your channel. Especially love spiderman with the eyes,green goblin & moon knight. If you ever want to collaborate or need insight on products to try out you can email me. Thanks Sean!
Thank you sir!! Might have to give that Bondo Plastic Metal a try. I’m a fan of your channel too haha 😁 Cheers
@@seanscrafts if you have trouble finding let me know I can send you some, I also have a new product that works really awesome & ironically I did it on a moon knight helmet. Video should be dropping in a week or so, something to look into! Thanks for watching Sean, looking forward to see what you come up with next with that big brain of yours & cereal boxes! Lol!
Amazing video as always! I'm hoping to get my first 3d printer around Christmas time this year and have been binging non stop 3d printing videos trying to pick up tips before I start screwing things up. :) Once I have settings dialed in I'm looking to make statues and things as gifts for friends. (The little spaceships from batteries not included, the Mondoshawan from the Fifth Element, etc). Do you have any tips for post processing smaller things like that or would you be willing to make a video about those kind of things? I've been all over youtube the past month watching hundreds of videos and your prints and final products are by far the most refined I have seen. Thanks!
Mark, how small of things are you printing little figurines?
@@Darkwingdad not little like tabletop figures (I'd probably do resin printing for that) I'd say statues about 8+ inches tall. Maybe even some busts. Things with smaller parts like arms or antennas, with little crevasses, I'm very intimidated about sanding things like that. Any tips would be bad ass. 👍
@@Lurker1222 czcams.com/video/w_SudJGyNA8/video.html here ya go
@@Darkwingdad Dude you are next level.. Thanks so much!!
"Lets get dangerous!"
@@Lurker1222 thanks buddy!
Great video and very helpful tips.
I have a question; I use wood filler to fill in the joints and seam lines, can I use Bondo Platic Metal to fill in the joints?
For welding Seams the full proof method would be bond with 2 part epoxy,pla weld that use plastic metal. I would steer clear of wood filler for gaps and seams. Pla weld and plastic metal is the way to go!
@@Darkwingdad Yes I PLA weld and use wood filler to fill in the gaps. Will Bondo Plastic Metal serve better than wood filler?
@@khurram4ss yes plastic metal is a much much better alternative, the proper one at that! It will bond better and add reinforcement to the piece
Do you use Tack cloth to remove dust prior to paint? - I saw your paint tent this time - anything else you do to stop airborn artifacts?
Tack cloths are great, the key is keeping them dust free, so I usually cut them up and only use 1 side a few times, suede towels with isopropyl is also a great dust eliminator, avoid using micro fibers when painting, they will introduce protons via fibrous resistance(static cling) and it’ll be difficult to get off. I just keep airflow to a minimum, keep the area clean and use tack clothes when needed, just don’t rub too hard you’ll swirl up the paint
For the plastic metal is that Bondo 901 and is the glazing putty Bondo 907C? Thanks for the video.
Correct. Many people are catching on & realizing the application of a controlled filler than glazing putty is so much quicker, 1-2 coats of filler primer after and it’s done! Thanks for watching!
on your very last coat of primer do you sand that at all or just spray the color you want on top with no sanding?
If I see any light defects I may hit it with 400 or 600, that’s all you’ll really need to do. Especially if using bondo filler primer it fills & sands down so easy. On this particular build though the filler,putty & 2 coats took care of all the defects.
After that final primer spray at the very end, do you then sand again before you apply the paint in Part 2?
No, if your final primer coat is applied properly with no runs or imperfections you can jump right into paint
Hey just curious: is there a reason you use pla opposed to Petg? It doesn’t warp from heat/friction from sanding. A lot less brittle as well.
Solid point, I was just using this pla for test purposes :) most of my suit is pla+ & petg
In all reality though petg can take longer to sand being more durable & harder. For display pieces I always use pla because they sand down quicker. Petg or pla+ for wearable or moving parts.
Yeah i moved to PETG and its so much easier to work with powertools on due to its hight heat tolerance. Plus its hot as hell here in Australia and PLA Prints warp so dam easy after hours of finishing work.
@@ScottBourke I’ve never had major issues with sanding pla, even with petg edges and intricate areas you either round off or can’t get in with a machine, when the ocd kicks in it’s real lol. I found when I use petg the hand sand and detail work took longer so I’ve always stuck with pla or pla+
I saw you used stage 2 bondo spot and glaze putty...what's the difference of stage 3 and what should you use to finish
Plastic metal is a filler, that is used for deeper defects but here I displayed how easy it sands & how it will fill in almost everything. You should always use a putty after a filler so here using bondo glazing putty after the plastic metal & lastly finishing with bondo filler primer
Super helpful for my first mando print. How do you deal wkth detailed areas when applying the plastic metal/bondo. I found its so difficult to spread kt usually gums up and im worried indented lines might disappear
You can dilute the plastic metal with acetone. Even after you apply it straight from the tube it can be reduced/diminished down to a lighter consistency even after it dries.
Check out my video on this method here czcams.com/video/tZPEnGgQvAQ/video.html
@Darkwing dad I should have known you'd have a video for it :) awesome thanks I'll check that out and be picking up some acetone I guess
@@schaeefer nail polish remover works too :)
What's the different between glazing putty and plastic metal? can i getaway with just glazing putty or just plactic metal, and what is your suggestion if its for smaller piece that have a lot of intricate details like pistol prop etc? I really frustrated with those print lines.
I currently working on the Oblivion pistol and im trying using UV resin which is good cuz it dries fast but sanding it is harder, please help, Thank you
Plastic metal will fill in better but with glazing putty you can remove it and blend it down with acetone or scrape it out with plastic panel tools if you get it in a crease or seam. Followed with bondo filler primer you’ll get great results with the putty.
@@Darkwingdad thanks for such fast respond, i will try it
Thanks again for this. I’m brand new to working with 3D printing. I’m following along with this video with my own Mando helmet … when I put on the Bondo plastic metal … how thick & dense do I apply it ? (Or does it really matter)
You don’t want to cake it on, apply it in a small section, I guess I could do a video showing bc it does harden fast. You just want to use it to fill in the pla lines
Thanks. I’m more concerned with the tight corners & areas that have definition. 1. I hate to not cover those tight spots 2. But I also don’t want to “not cover” those same spots (not sure if that makes sense)
@@davidrussell6159 for tight intricate areas use glazing putty. Filler will be difficult to remove & you may lose definition. I speak lightly of this on my repairing a failed print video I posted the other day. You can remove glazing putty with a plastic razor blade,pick tool or acetone if put on too heavy & it sands down quite easy
@@Darkwingdad thank you 🙏🏻
@@davidrussell6159 no problem my friend! Always here if you need it!
So say you just got a fresh print of the printer. Would you say the steps would be 1. Sand. 2. Filler then prime / sand as many times as needed. 3. Paint?
Depending on how clean the print is
Sand 80 grit
Putty
Sand 160
Filler primer
Sand 180/220
Filler primer
Sand 220/320
Final primer
I just uploaded a few new videos of a diy filler that mixes the plastic metal & putty into 1
So you can do that in place of doing separate fillers & puttys
Do you rinse off your prints after saning and before adding another coat of fuller primer?
I wipe down with IPA & use a tac cloth after to remove lint/debris
@@Darkwingdad oooooooooooo that makes more sense lol. Thanks brother
@@wilatheroicstudios2466 no problem
Thank you for this very informative video.
No problem glad it helped!
Have you changed over to UPOL? How does that compare to the metal filler Bondo?
Plastic metal is great for deeper defects especially when pla welding. The upol 1k putty is my go to though for smoothing
What are you using to spread the glazing putty on the extra pieces?
A small plastic spreader or a nitrile glove abs your finger work great.
Just to clarify, you cover the entire helmet with plastic metal and sand it off, and then repeat that with the glazing putty?
Correct
@@Darkwingdad do you still use the plastic metal to cover the helmet before spray putty as well?
@@brandonlawson1856 if you have deeper pla gaps yes, sometimes it crap filament or maybe a loose belt and you don’t wana scrap the whole piece plastic metal works great. You can thin plastic metal down a bit and apply with a brush, video coming soon! Putty is for light duty due to its high shrink rate. Trust me when I say this method will leave you with a truly mint piece with no pla lines
Love the DOOM mask #ALLCAPS 14:47
RIP to the KING
What do you clean the sanding dust off with after sanding the primer?
Isopropyl alcohol works great!
@@Darkwingdad okay thank you! Wasn’t sure if it’d mess up the plastic or not
I'm just waiting for my elegoo Jupiter lol
Once I’ve sanded, primed, and I’m ready to paint what are you cleaning your pla parts with again? Just straight alcohol?
For dust removal alcohol is fine. Once you have paint & or clear coat on I like using a product called prep all, you can use alcohol but prep all is a stronger stripper that helps remove oils & other agents on the surface.
Here is the link for it amzn.to/3ae93YS
It’s primer & paint safe.
@@Darkwingdad thank you! I greatly appreciate your videos. I watch them and recommend them all the time in all my 3d printer Facebook groups. Great work
@@rum28 I appreciate it so much! What project are you currently working on?
Mystery Makers Bo Katan helmet and armor. It’s a Halloween build for my daughter
@@rum28 nice! He has great files! Are you doing gloss or satin finish?
Can i wet sand bondo glazing putty with water? Or it will just dissolve the putty?
You can but there a minimal benefits to wetsanding putty. As soon as you put paint or clear coat on you will create orange peel especially if using spray cans. That’s when you want to wetsand it
@@Darkwingdad thank you for your reply. I might have caked the putty to much so hopefully i can sand it clean. I will avoid water. C. I clean the dust with acetone or just compressed air?
@@Anupkulkarni23 yes just blow it down and wipe with isopropyl alcohol
Do you have an alternative to use from bondo as it's really expensive in the uk?
As far as premixed no, however upol makes some nice fillers. Is that available in the UK?
@@Darkwingdad I'm not 100% sure but I'll have a look thank you. I've also just come around something called knifing putty I'm guess it's similar stuff but I'll have a look more into it. Thanks again oh and awesome video by the way I definitely learnt a few tips and tricks 👏🏼👌🏼💪🏼
@@Martin-sh2xg check into upol dolphin glaze, I’m doing a video on it soon. I’m pretty sure it’s available in the uk
8:50 испугал на хрен!)) смотрел на колонках jbl в тишине!.. видос зачет лайк подписка спасибо из России!
At what point is it recommended to stop using the electric palm sander? Do you still use it after the bondo glazing putty with 220/320 grit?
I use it on the initial sand and with the plastic metal. You don’t want to over use it bc it’ll strip all those filling agents the putty and primers provide
@@Darkwingdad Thanks for the quick answer! Although I have binge watched almost half of your videos at this point, I have some difficulty figuring out when to go for one or two coats of filler primer. Should double coats with 30 minutes in between coats be done at the earlier stages (before 320/400 grit) or towards the end (after 600 grit)?
@@Daan87423 what filler primer are you using?
@@Darkwingdad It's from a company called Jenolite. Sadly many of the products you're suggesting aren't available in Europe
@@Daan87423 is it solvent based do you know? How fast can you sand it once applied?
You did a great job - but that's a lot of work, and wish I had seen this video 2 weeks ago before I bought an FDM printer - I wouldnt have bought it - I just don't have the time to spend sanding and filling
Check out my latest video….it’s a time saver for sure!
0.4mm nozzle, higher heat, slower print, shorter layer height makes less lines
Heat needs to be calculated with your filament. Too high you’ll run into oozing & cooking your pla which requires more work to clean up. Regardless of layer height,speed etc everything needs post processing, all layer lines show once you start to sand.
@@Darkwingdad Right, but every filament has a temperature range that works with it. I also didn't say there would be no lines. I said there will be less lines. Which makes your work easier.
@@adamsaquatics3332 totally understand, & there are definitely prints where you want to use a finer layer height due to eccentricity if detailed areas & I agree with that. There are prints I’ve done at .16 and still sand but there are others (like my thanos helmet recently) that I printed at a higher layer height bc it had large flat panels that are easy to sand. Usually on busts I always print at .16 with ironing. I just look at it with helmets like mando or thanos for example to keep it printing for an extra 2-3 days I can fix all the extra in a day, plus it saves wear on the machine.
can you link the print file/maker for this helmet?
This file is by mystery makers here is his link www.etsy.com/shop/MysteryMakersStudio?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=1032802096&page=2#items
Tell marko (he’s the modeler) that DW sent you!
@@Darkwingdad I checked there earlier, I didn't see the Boba helmet, just the Jango
@@scumbagsteve5029 send him a message I let him know, he’ll create a listing for the helmet
Nice MF DOOM mask
Thanks bro!
Your thumbnail is inaccurate. This is how to get a perfectly SMOOTHED print, not how to get a perfectly SMOOTH print. Big difference. LOL.
Damnit you win lol
@@Darkwingdad 🤪😜🤪
Can't find this in europe so boring
:( that sucks
I’m sorry but I’ve never been one to spare feelings. If you can’t properly mix regular bondo you have no business trying to 3D print anything.
Regardless, bondo body filler is like sanding concrete whether your ratio is on or not. Plastic metal is significantly easier & products like rage gold & dolphin glaze are higher quality fillers but bondo is more readily available