I liked your video. question: I have a kitchenaid fridge with dual evap and the freezer side only get to 15F and the fridge is fine at 37F. with the fridge compressor off and with the manifold connected to both hi/lo side the pressure reads 40PSI right away which means the pressures are equalized and there no obstruction, correct. ? are the pressure too high and that may explain why the freezer does not get to temp of 0F? is it worth to purge the freon and preform nitrogen pressure test?
2:30 - Is this one of those "Rules of Thumb" they talked about in class (350CFM per ton for airflow; 20 degrees SH on residential AC; Less than 250F discharge line temperature, etc)? Where to you get information about what the TD is for specific equipment? Is that a calculation? I've not been able to find this information anywhere. In school they taught us the calculation for TD; but, not what it is supposed to be for different equipment. I still have my RACT manual; but, it's not in there either. Is there a calculation I can do from the nameplate ratings?. The closest I could get is the BTU rating of the evaporator. I walk up to a box that appears to be functioning correctly: but, how can I be certain the designed TD is correct? Is it all a guess? or is there a way to know from a chart, maybe?
2:33 - Where can the actual design TD be found? Is it just a ROT? Also do you use a different coil TD between a walk-in cooler and a walk-in freezer? Or both 10K? I heard the 30K CTOA from school for less than 10 SEER HVAC.
What is the evaporator DT supposed to be for a newer domestic refrigerator with a linear compressor side-by-side unit with one evaporator in the freezer section?
I do not do domestic. I had a commercial customer with a sub zero last year that I changed the evap coil on and the evap TD was 20. Might not apply to your application though unfortunately.
here some more info: The ambient temp is 73F & it equalized very fast when the compressor is off (< 5min). few minutes after the fridge was turn on the pressure went to ~1psi on the low side and then few minutes later to 10PSI , and on the high side it started at 90PSI and went to 125PSI. The compressor temp is slightly warm, i assume since it was just started, correct? after 20min with fridge running the low side is at -10PSI and the high side is at 100PSI, and the compressor is running at high speed and starting to heat up ,does it mean the system is under charged ?
Well, This fridge happen to have hi/lo ports installed and I noticed very small bubble when using soapy water. I the removed the valve and found that both shredder valvves were leaking , the rubber ring around the valve were worn out completely. How could it be ? I will replace both and see if the leak continues. Thanks
@@REFRIGERATIONKITCHENEQTECH thanks, it’s a lot of work in the beginning huh, having to recover then add back refrigerant, it’d be cool to see a video of where you place the ports
Great video thanks for your time and explaining
great explanation
Thanks a lot. That what we were taught in college.
Np, thanks for watching
Really awesome videos, I watch them every so often to memorize them, and God bless.
👍
Good explaining
I liked your video. question: I have a kitchenaid fridge with dual evap and the freezer side only get to 15F and the fridge is fine at 37F. with the fridge compressor off and with the manifold connected to both hi/lo side the pressure reads 40PSI right away which means the pressures are equalized and there no obstruction, correct. ? are the pressure too high and that may explain why the freezer does not get to temp of 0F? is it worth to purge the freon and preform nitrogen pressure test?
2:30 - Is this one of those "Rules of Thumb" they talked about in class (350CFM per ton for airflow; 20 degrees SH on residential AC; Less than 250F discharge line temperature, etc)? Where to you get information about what the TD is for specific equipment? Is that a calculation? I've not been able to find this information anywhere. In school they taught us the calculation for TD; but, not what it is supposed to be for different equipment. I still have my RACT manual; but, it's not in there either. Is there a calculation I can do from the nameplate ratings?. The closest I could get is the BTU rating of the evaporator. I walk up to a box that appears to be functioning correctly: but, how can I be certain the designed TD is correct? Is it all a guess? or is there a way to know from a chart, maybe?
2:33 - Where can the actual design TD be found? Is it just a ROT? Also do you use a different coil TD between a walk-in cooler and a walk-in freezer? Or both 10K? I heard the 30K CTOA from school for less than 10 SEER HVAC.
Good explanation
Thanks and welcome
Another excellent video. Thank you 👌🏼
thank you sir
Thanks for the videos! If you have txv instead of captube what should my TD and split be?
Current box temp minus Evap TD
What is the evaporator DT supposed to be for a newer domestic refrigerator with a linear compressor side-by-side unit with one evaporator in the freezer section?
I do not do domestic. I had a commercial customer with a sub zero last year that I changed the evap coil on and the evap TD was 20. Might not apply to your application though unfortunately.
Thank you boss
👍
here some more info:
The ambient temp is 73F & it equalized very fast when the compressor is off (< 5min).
few minutes after the fridge was turn on the pressure went to ~1psi on the low side and then few minutes later to 10PSI , and on the high side it started at 90PSI and went to 125PSI. The compressor temp is slightly warm, i assume since it was just started, correct?
after 20min with fridge running the low side is at -10PSI and the high side is at 100PSI, and the compressor is running at high speed and starting to heat up ,does it mean the system is under charged ?
If it’s r134A could be low charge or a restriction
Well, This fridge happen to have hi/lo ports installed and I noticed very small bubble when using soapy water. I the removed the valve and found that both shredder valvves were leaking , the rubber ring around the valve were worn out completely. How could it be ? I will replace both and see if the leak continues. Thanks
To determine your auction pressure, do you use a desire box temp or the actual box temp displaying? Btw awesome videos! Thank you so much!
System with txv = actual temp , capillary = desired temp
So if the cooler has txv we can't use suction line pressure for diagnostic?
Ye would used current box temp minus evap TD as opposed to desired box temp minus evap TD
Jesus Christ. You are goooooood.
Lol, thanks for watching!
What kind of hoses do you use, and you usually have to add pressure ports correct ?
Yes, we braze in access port. I use smart probes for any critically charged system
@@REFRIGERATIONKITCHENEQTECH thanks, it’s a lot of work in the beginning huh, having to recover then add back refrigerant, it’d be cool to see a video of where you place the ports
You always use 30 above ambient?
Most older units use a 30F condenser air split, a lot of the newer stuff uses a 15F split.
How do you determine if you going use 10td and 20td 30td
The engineer will determine this. Reach ins are typically a 20TD
Where do you find this split information? In the manual? Nameplates ?
Thanks a lot
Do you mean box temp , set cabinet temp ?
Box temp is the current temp of the cabinet. Set temp is your desired temp.
How you determine desire box temp
It is generally 34F
70f plus 30 how does that equal 124 i must have missed a part
70F + 30F =100F which equals 124PSI on our PT chart
You forgot to say a recovery process have to be done each time