unfortunately im doing the exact same job now on my 98 durango. and it is a bitch. i like this video cause its straight to the point and done. you just helped me more than you know.
Yeah I gotta do mine on my 1992 which I've owned since new. Not sure how easy all the bolts will be coming out. Not lookin forward to the job but...this video helps a bit. I was figuring on dropping entire front axle but I guess that's not necessary? I've done an engine cradle on a ford focu and a rack too on another one so I'm kind expecting the work involved.
May as well replace the transmission pan too, mine had a hole on the flange already.. so much rust nightmare steel brake lines also fail.. Stainless lines should be used, get with it Dodge. I replaced the crap bolts on Transmission pan with stainless 3/4 long and a stainless 5/32 thick washer got some extra made 2 x 14. As factory are 5/8 long. JB WaterWeld also worked great for ~1 year stopped the main leaks. It's still good, but it's oil change time. And I was worry but the JB falling to the pavement with the 1/8 hole at -30C My pan is also leaking on the both sides also. Can't get at it.. Big Blisters even near upper area of pan, I'm still working at getting it out..
there is no transmission pan on the manual. manual transmissions don't have pumps or filters that need to be changed like automatics do, so there doesn't need to be a removable pan. all it has is a magnetic drain bolt to catch any metal flakes and a fill bolt to put in more fluid.
Great video, but on page 2b-17 of the Haynes manual it says to take the weight off of the engine mounts with a hoist. I have been looking underneath and I can't see why. Did you use a engine hoist to remove the oil pan? Thanks ( 99 Dakota 4WD)
Hey Ed thanks for the question. I did not use a hoist or touch the engine mount whatsoever. The mount is a large steel sheet that bolts up to the transmission, I unbolted the trans side and used a pry bar between the block and the mount to move it enough to give me clearance to get a socket + extensions and space for the pan. it will save you a lot of time to do it like that rather than setting up a hoist and unbolting a mount ect..
The truck doesn't leaks at all it still drives like nothing really wrong with it. Other than what I said is going on. The problem is that I need help to fix on it and someone professional that really does work like that I'm just an average man I'm not a mechanic but I pretty much fix the transmission myself. I just need the big things done you guys understand what I'm talking about
Thanks for the video, short but informative. My question is: I have a rod knock and low oil pressure (99 Dakota 3.9L Magnum), i was told that i would need to replace the oil pump and rod bearing and that will take care of the problem. If this is true, then do you recommend removing the pan completely to replace those two parts? If not, (aside from replacing the engine) then what do you recommend? Any input will be appreciated. This is my work truck and if it dies i will not have a job. Thanks in advance.
definitly need to drop the pan for the oil pump. but I would look into the rod knock a little more in depth. if its a work pump I would also look into getting a high pressure oil pump. My wifes 2001 Ram had a slight knocking and it ended up being the cam and a roller lifter. the roller seized and chewed the cam. reason I'm bringing that up is to reinforce looking into the knock before throwing parts at it. hope this helps
the bolt in rear left corner of oilpan was a nightmare to remove. I finally figured it out. A 1/4 inch drive barely fit through there with a 4 way flex ujoint swivel head. putting it back on may require taping the bolt to the socket.
If you get a prybar between the block and that steel mount/bracket you can move it enough to give you good clearance w/o a swivel. But I would still recommend using 1/4 inch extension so you dont have to pry to much.
unfortunately im doing the exact same job now on my 98 durango. and it is a bitch. i like this video cause its straight to the point and done. you just helped me more than you know.
Dude I'm in your exact boat. Help a brotha out before I go mad
I don't care for those long winded videos either. Thanks for the good info, I have a 97 2w drive manual.
Yeah I gotta do mine on my 1992 which I've owned since new. Not sure how easy all the bolts will be coming out. Not lookin forward to the job but...this video helps a bit. I was figuring on dropping entire front axle but I guess that's not necessary?
I've done an engine cradle on a ford focu and a rack too on another one so I'm kind expecting the work involved.
Hi did you have to take your driveshaft out to remove the differential
I have a 96
May as well replace the transmission pan too, mine had a hole on the flange already..
so much rust nightmare steel brake lines also fail.. Stainless lines should be used, get with it Dodge. I replaced the crap bolts on Transmission pan with stainless 3/4 long and a stainless 5/32 thick washer got some extra made 2 x 14. As factory are 5/8 long.
JB WaterWeld also worked great for ~1 year stopped the main leaks. It's still good, but it's oil change time. And I was worry but the JB falling to the pavement with the 1/8 hole at -30C
My pan is also leaking on the both sides also. Can't get at it..
Big Blisters even near upper area of pan, I'm still working at getting it out..
there is no transmission pan on the manual. manual transmissions don't have pumps or filters that need to be changed like automatics do, so there doesn't need to be a removable pan. all it has is a magnetic drain bolt to catch any metal flakes and a fill bolt to put in more fluid.
Great video, but on page 2b-17 of the Haynes manual it says to take the weight off of the engine mounts with a hoist. I have been looking underneath and I can't see why. Did you use a engine hoist to remove the oil pan? Thanks ( 99 Dakota 4WD)
Hey Ed
thanks for the question. I did not use a hoist or touch the engine mount whatsoever. The mount is a large steel sheet that bolts up to the transmission, I unbolted the trans side and used a pry bar between the block and the mount to move it enough to give me clearance to get a socket + extensions and space for the pan. it will save you a lot of time to do it like that rather than setting up a hoist and unbolting a mount ect..
The truck doesn't leaks at all it still drives like nothing really wrong with it. Other than what I said is going on. The problem is that I need help to fix on it and someone professional that really does work like that I'm just an average man I'm not a mechanic but I pretty much fix the transmission myself. I just need the big things done you guys understand what I'm talking about
Thanks for the video, short but informative.
My question is: I have a rod knock and low oil pressure (99 Dakota 3.9L Magnum), i was told that i would need to replace the oil pump and rod bearing and that will take care of the problem. If this is true, then do you recommend removing the pan completely to replace those two parts? If not, (aside from replacing the engine) then what do you recommend?
Any input will be appreciated. This is my work truck and if it dies i will not have a job. Thanks in advance.
definitly need to drop the pan for the oil pump. but I would look into the rod knock a little more in depth. if its a work pump I would also look into getting a high pressure oil pump. My wifes 2001 Ram had a slight knocking and it ended up being the cam and a roller lifter. the roller seized and chewed the cam. reason I'm bringing that up is to reinforce looking into the knock before throwing parts at it. hope this helps
the bolt in rear left corner of oilpan was a nightmare to remove. I finally figured it out. A 1/4 inch drive barely fit through there with a 4 way flex ujoint swivel head. putting it back on may require taping the bolt to the socket.
If you get a prybar between the block and that steel mount/bracket you can move it enough to give you good clearance w/o a swivel. But I would still recommend using 1/4 inch extension so you dont have to pry to much.
thanks. I'll try that out after i get new pan in.
Where is your accemt from?
Probably North Carolina