Front Suspension Full Disassembly and Rebuild Smart ForTwo 451 (2008-2015)
Vložit
- čas přidán 6. 08. 2024
- In this video we look at the common failure points in the front suspension of a smart fortwo 451 (2008-2015), disassemble everything and replace worn out parts, then reassemble.
Smart Tech Series Playlist: • Smart ForTwo Tech Series
Instagram: @pbgaragelive
Facebook: / pbgaragelive
0:00 Intro
0:32 Diagnosing The Problem
4:45 Remove Sway Bar End Link
5:25 Remove Tie Rod End
5:38 Remove Brake Caliper
5:57 Remove Wheel Speed Sensor
6:12 Remove Ball Joint
6:28 Remove Strut
7:11 Disassemble Strut
9:28 Replace Control Arm
12:25 Reassemble Front Suspension
15:17 Conclusion - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Priceless for someone like me who wants to be able to do more to his car. A thousand thanks!
Glad to hear it!
A really informative and helpful tutorial, I've used it to remove my worn track arms and replace them with new ones. The tip for not fully tightening the mounting bolts until the ball joint was back on was great, thanks again. 👍
Glad to hear it was helpful, thanks for watching!
Brilliant video. This issue is one of the most challenging issues a Smart car driver has to face. UK garages are a nightmare, and charge a fortune for this...
Thanks! The trouble here is finding someone that will even touch them anymore.
@PBGarage To be fair there not too hard to work on. I think garages just see them as small and awkward to work on eg front spring change needing the front end and lights took off to do it proper.
But taking the front end and lights off is actually only a 10 min job I was impressed how easy it was 👍
Спасибо огромное!!! Очень всё понятно. Работа сделана на высоком техническом уровне. ПРОФЕССИОНАЛ!!!
Рад, что это помогло!
@@PBGarage
this guys good, sounds canadian. so many shade tree vids, look for the pros - guys who do it 8 to 10 hours a day, six or seven days a week.
Ottawa Canada up in here lol
Excellent, as usual, thank you.
Great instructions, very useful. Thanks
Thank you!
Safety critical fittings were not torqued correctly.
Front control arm inner bolts requires 89ft/lb (120Nm), you tightened them with a ratcheting ring spanner - this is unsafe.
The track-rod ends are rated at 30lb/ft (40MN) - you tightened them with an air impact gun.
Always use Loctite on the threads when reusing old nuts and bolts in critical applications.
If you remove the black trim under the windscreen, there are access holes to attack the strut top nut.
This greatly improves the reduces the risk of chewing up the strut top nut.
Give the strut top a good wire brush and spray with penetrating fluid a few days before you start the job.
This will stop the top nut galling up on the thread and spinning the damper shaft within the top cup.
Good info!
You got here just before I did, to write the exact same warnings. This is the dark side of CZcams. Anyone can put up half-assed (but apparently accurate) videos which appear informative but the end result is lives are put at risk - literally.
On the flip side, this same car in the video had been taken to a licenced mechanic prior to this work, and the front left lower control arm bolt had been torqued “to spec”. When the car was driven and had to make an emergency stop, the front wheel came back and tapped the wheel well liner, in the process shooting the car hard left into oncoming traffic. When I inspected the car to see what was up, I realized the lower control arm bolt had been sheared in half from being tightened to the torque spec. So the rearward half of the control arm was held in by what was left of the bolt and the front half of the control arm was free to float out away from the car on hard braking.
Thank you , great work
Thanks! Glad it helps!
wow, you do such a good job!!!
Thank you! Just trying to help everyone keep their smart cars going instead of them ending up at the junk yard!
Gracias
Yes please do a video on front well liner replacement. PLEASE!
It's fairly straightforward, a couple push clips and a couple 10mm plastic nuts and it comes right out, but next time I have the smart in the garage I'll put it together for ya!
Thanks, Will help me doing same operation :)
No prob glad it’ll help!
very good video
Thank you!
Nice video, just did this today. Your new front arm just slid on easy!! I got a Febi arm and it was about 2mm too small between the 2 bushes. Ended up wedging a small bottle jack between them to open the arm up slightly.
I’m surprised it didn’t slide right in. I wonder if the arm got bent in shipping or if the mounts on the car were a bit bent or something.
@PBGarage it was just strange that it was both sides and both arms but they are in now that's the main thing :-). Maybe Febi had a bad batch ? The original Mercedes ones came off easy but they were worn 👍
Great video! I'm about to tackle my 2005. I suspect it's very similar if not identical with (possibly) different part #'s.
The wheel hub and bottom of the strut is different but otherwise pretty much identical!
Hello! Have a 2015 Brabus with bad control arm on passenger side making noise when I hit bumps.
My question, how do I know which control arm to order for passenger side? Or are they're only one control arm. I am no mechanic, or parts changer.
Thank you for this amazing upload!
The arms are the same left+right. Thanks for the feedback!
Thank You So Much For Making This Video. Even Before I Found You Video, I Had Front Passenger Side Conclusion & Had To Replace All The Same Parts That You Showed.. Can You Please Make Video On Replacing) Rewiring The Car Stereo For The Smart. I Own 2015 Model Smart For two, I Purchased The Pioneer AVH-521EX Stereo. I Could Use Any Help That You Could Give. Thank You!
I've never even had the stereo out but try searching for the factory stereo pinouts, that should at least get you the info for which wire does what.
Thanks for a great video. Suggestion for a video: Have you had any issues with temperature setting? It seem that mine has hot air coming from the vents when the setting is at the top. And when i move the lever down 1 millimeter to cooler, the air is really cold. It's almost like an on/off swith. Something for you to investigate?
I can check that out - can’t say I’ve had that issue in any cars I’ve had though. Might be worth seeing someone with a diagnostic tool to see if there is an issue with the cabin temperature sensor.
I do see the dust cover
But what if I don't need to change the control arm just only its front struts, coil springs, strut mounts and strut mount bearings. Will I still need to loosen the control arm to put those back in place?
No you won’t need to loosen the control arm if you remove the spindle. If you try to pull the strut out of the spindle instead of removing it, I’ve done it but it’s a lot of effort without loosening the control arm.
@@PBGarage oh okay but I also forgot to mention I will also be replacing both sway bar links if this matters now wither I still have to loosen the control arm or remove the spindle? By the way thanks for replying, not too many videos on here about smart cars, thank god you have a very clear and detailed video.
How did you reassembled the strut back with the top 21 nut sitting, which you have removed at the beginning? @6:30
I just reassembled it in the reverse order. Slid the strut up through the hole, put the nut on by hand, and then drove it on with the impact.
Havent watched your video. Just asking right off the bat, can you press in a new ball joint, or do you HAVE to buy the whole control arm assembly? Thank you in advance! Peace.
You can press in a new ball joint.
@@PBGarage Thank you! They wanted $100 for a whole assembly smh...tired of putting money into this car. It's been an electrical nightmare.
When you unscrew the tie rod end count the turns.
I've found that different manufacturers sometimes build the replacement tie rod ends with silghtly different lengths from the start of threads to the ball socket, so it's tough to get bang on no matter how you do it. Really need to do an alignment after to be sure.
my replacements are tight and I can't seem to get them installed onto the steering frame, any suggestions?
Are your subframe bushings fully seated in the A arm?
@@PBGarage yes. I finally got them installed but damn it was a challenge.
Thanks for great video, I dont like put down the front mask..... :P
It's a lot more work than on a 450 that's for sure.
How much time would it take to do that job?
What I did in the video took me about 4 hours.
I did mines about 5 months ago. At first the suspension would not bounce. I would push down on the car and no movement
Glad you sorted it out!
@@PBGarage I still don’t know what caused that to happen, any ideas.
@@BIGGBAY90 Oh you mean it wouldn't bounce after replacing things? Quite probably either the bump stop was improperly installed, or the strut was jammed internally. Is it still not moving?
@@PBGarage Only the lower control arm was replaced
What tools will I need
12, 13, 16, 17, 18, 21, 24mm sockets. Set of Torx. Set of E-Torx.
@@PBGarage thanks going to junkyard tomorrow to DIY my front end all by myself! I got this!, thanks to u and your video of course! Wish me luck
Could I pay you to look at mine? Dealer and Canadian tire couldn't figure it out
What’s wrong with it?
@@PBGarage Hey sorry for the delay, I've spent almost $2000 at dealer and mechanics and it's making a very fast repetitive clunking sound on smooth roads, they can't figure it out. We've replaced the struts and mounts as well as sway bar links. I can send you a video?
No torque wrench used. Not even a reference to torquing. Just a ratchet ring spinner/wrench. This is the dark side of CZcams. Anyone can put up half-assed (but apparently accurate) videos which appear informative but the end result is lives are put at risk - literally.
AND the contributor LOVES this comment. From which we can conclude he doesn’t care.
On the flip side, this same car in the video had been taken to a licenced mechanic prior to this work, and the front left lower control arm bolt had been torqued “to spec”. When the car was driven and had to make an emergency stop, the front wheel came back and tapped the wheel well liner, in the process shooting the car hard left into oncoming traffic. When I inspected the car to see what was up, I realized the lower control arm bolt had been sheared in half from being tightened to the torque spec. So the rearward half of the control arm was held in by what was left of the bolt and the front half of the control arm was free to float out away from the car on hard braking.
These videos aren’t meant to be a factory service manual. They are meant to show people what to expect when taking the car apart. If whoever is working on the car doesn’t feel confident in their ability to set torques to the appropriate values they probably shouldn’t be working on it.