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Parts in North America are definitely becoming more difficult to source. Nothing yet that’s limited me from keeping them going. Here in Canada anyway, they’re still super tough to beat in terms of dollar per km driven. Cheap to buy, cheap to fix if you can do the work yourself, cheap on gas. All the good TDIs are either complete rust buckets, have half a million km, or are insanely $$, and the only other cars that can touch the fuel economy are hybrids which are either super expensive to buy or have all kinds of issues. They’re definitely niche and like I say you need to be able to do at least some of the work yourself but yeah… Tough to beat $ per km.

@@PBGarage "and the only other cars that can touch the fuel economy are hybrids" Not true. the Smart car is rated at 32-mpg city and 39 highway. Many 4-cylinder sedans are getting 40 mpg on the highway, including the Prius, Nissan Altima and VW Jetta. They're safer, carry a LOT more, have cheaper parts, are more reliable, etc. There are many other cars which come close, and the tiny savings in fuel efficiency isn't worth the loss of cargo capacity, safety, etc. The only reasons to own a Smart are the "cute" factor" and ease of finding a parking spot. The Fortwo is a bad proposition for most. That's why it never caught on.

@Unit_104 my experience in real world economy doesn’t line up with those numbers.

@@PBGarage So, what are your numbers?

@Unit_104 05-06 smart diesel ~56mpgUS, 08-15 smart 1.0L gas ~43mpgUS, 16-17 smart 0.9L turbo gas ~48mpgUS. Small 4 cyl sedans and hatches the best I’ve ever managed was in the 33-35mpgUS range which is still good. You definitely give up a lot of car for that extra 5-8mpg. Smarts definitely aren’t for everyone that’s not what I’m saying. I prefer the small footprint for parking, I feel safer in it because it’s narrower and nimble, and has a lot less momentum. Brakes are unreal in emergency stops. You have to think of a smart car as more like a side by side motorcycle with a roof and heat and a radio. If you prefer small sedans and stuff cool but for people that the smart works for there’s nothing else like it.

I use quickjacks now. Those scissors were surprisingly stable though.

I did notice those in the video, do those work on the Smart?

They do, but you have to put them under the car facing side to side instead of front to back.

We are all sold out unfortunately

As far as I know all but the base model cars have electrically assisted steering racks. The base model cars (pure) are unassisted. It only gives you the electric assist at low speeds but it is a very noticeable difference between Pure and Passion/Brabus etc

@@PBGarage got it, I just bought one and I have no idea which version it is hahaha is a 2013 tho ( not EV )

@DanCycles good chance if you have a clear plastic roof it’s got power steering, if it has a black roof outside and a white headliner inside, it doesn’t have power.

Easy, they all just clip back together. Takes a little finagling, but it only fits one way.

Ho fame, voglio mangiare una mozzarella di buffala. That’s all I got sorry.

Glad to hear it!

Glad to hear you sorted it out quickly, and that our video helped you get there!

Hey no worries, sorry for the delayed response. Just used some normal b6/b7 automatic transmission moints for the side mount.

I started with PB Blaster or WD40, and once it freed up I tried to feed in some gear oil using a short hose. If you can free it up with a penetrant you could also finish with something tackier like fluid film. The trick for me was to just keep hitting it once a week for a few weeks in the heat of summer to get it well and properly in there and so that it would stay freed up for a while.

@@PBGarage Cheers, fella!

Just using any automatic mount from a b6 and b7, one for either side.

If the voltage drops when the car is shifting, it could be an issue with the clutch actuator rather than the charging system.

That sounds like a problem with the blower motor resistor, not the blower itself.

I love Bosch

@@PBGarage 👍 🙂

We really like the LUK clutch kits.

Thank you!

Thank yoy!

S’agit d’ouvrir la caisse de l’actuateur, nettoyer, lubrifier avec un produit à base de silicone, et réinstaller sur les mêmes marques. C’est à dire, sans changer la position de l’actuateur relatif à la transmission. Si possible, utiliser le programme STAR par Mercedes pour effectuer une adaptation numérique.

@@PBGarage , merci 🇨🇦

It has been about 15,000km since the installation and not one concern. The OEM struts that have now about 165,000km havent blown either, and it remains as comfortable to drive as before.

czcams.com/video/yUY-z5iXWl8/video.htmlsi=xw6RKO4DFlU62A23

Around the 19 minute mark when he puts the cams in.

Thanks. I’m trying decide if I want to tackle the cam tensioners. This video helps, just want to make sure everything lines up when putting back in.

Sounds like a solid setup! I bought vogtland coilovers for my B6 Avant 1.8t (not installed yet), I’ve heard they ride great 👍🏻

@@PBGarage oh they most def do I rode on em with the k03s and with the brakes it changed the car completely

Yeah the EA888 cars have a very different roller setup, not the cap follower like the EA113

I figure there’s probably other ways to tackle it but that’s as deep as I felt like going on it. Luckily replacements are still affordable.

Thanks for the feedback!

No, you should be able to open the little window in the trunk area and pull out the bulb holder from there to replace taillight bulbs.

@@PBGarage Thank you. I am in Australia and looking at buying a 2011 451 on the weekend. Your video was very helpful on what to look for. I was a mechanic in my younger days, but past full on stuff these days.

@ChrisBrown-ux8jn I wish we had rust free Aussie cars to buy here! That’s the big killer for us.

@@PBGarage The main problem in Australia, is the availability of parts. In theory we should be able to get therm from Mercedes dealers but in practice its not that easy. I am going to attempt to get the frame lowering bolts you talked about.

@ChrisBrown-ux8jn we are having similar issues here now, the Mercedes’ dealers aren’t really supporting them since 2018. You can still get parts but prices are going up and so are delivery times. I’m sure the parts will start drying up soon too.

I’m not certain but I think the turn signal relay may be a part of the hazard light switch assembly, could try swapping that out. I’d check wiring for obvious faults first and fuses. Then swap the hazard switch for a junkyard one. Last thing could be a fault in the SAM but that would be a pain to fix.

​@@PBGarage So apparently the turn signal lights should not stay on at all times and the side that turns off is the side that the turn signal works. So I think it may be a relay issue and the passenger side is stuck in the "ON" position. At least I hope so. Thanks for your help, you are appreciated!

I did mine back up because I didn’t want the coolant lines rattling around and springing a leak. Might be ok without the bolt, might not, I don’t really know.

Glad you got it done!

Time to sell it and pick up a Passion

What mods?

If you don’t have to deal with the corrosion I had, it will be a much easier job.

01E is the factory 6 spd with a 2.7T and has the VSS. OA3 or 02X don’t have VSS but you can just tap into the speed signal from the ABS module.

@@PBGarage ok cool thank u bro, also i seen he dodnt have a manual subframe , did he just bolt up a crossbar to the auto sub to mount the trans

@BarrioHoncho the 01E out of B5S4 and C5A6 uses two side mounts so it bolts right up to B6/B7 auto subframe. The B6A4 01E has a different type of mount and uses B6/B7 manual subframe with a cast aluminum trans mount.

@@PBGarage you have a IG? so we can chat more on there

@BarrioHoncho @pbgaragelive

Google audi v6 3.0 cam lock and find the audizine thread that shows how it's I stalled

Yep truly a design flaw imo. Some don't even make it to 100kmiles like mine!