Good job bro do worry about the professionals in comments that live in there moms basements and don’t own a boat!! Your just trying to help people and I appreciate that 🤘
Hi mate That stainless cleaner is good, I’m a pro boat detailer in Australia Ok now to polishing 3m products are amazing I always used a rotating buffer for the heavy work with 3m compound Then I used a dual action polish machine for waxing, Waxes I only uses My favorite is Collinite fleetwood wax,its a hard paste wax,its a USA product Or Merguiars carnuba wax,its a hard paste wax For long lasting shine. Always apply waxes with a hand foam applicator Foam applicator must be damp(wet) when in use Don’t skimp on products,apply a good amount of wax to small area Nd dual action polisher to work wax to a brilliant shine. Cheers matey I hope is helps people
Years ago a friend that does it as a pro taught me to use a wooden paint stir to clean the pad. While it is spinning just hold the end of the stir to it and it will clean all the excess compound off. Eventually the stir will be rounded off but works great. Love the steel polish that is awesome, thanks
I tried to use a dual orbital buffer for a few seasons with several different types of compounds. Until I finally bought a high speed rotary polisher (Makita 9237), I was just wasting my time. The right polisher makes all the difference. Dual action orbitals are fine for light polish and waxing but not for compounding oxidation based on my experience. You need high speed rotary.
just to see if you have ever used old english lemon oil it is the most awesome thing for stainless steel and is very simple to use on kitchen appliances for the wife. please let me know if you get a chance to use.the bottle goes long long way I've used same bottle for over five years.thanks for your time and video.
Matt Vaquer Well, you don't necessarily have to just because compounding but he's using stuff that really won't "shine" up the gel, only gloss it up a bit. The compound he's using is horrible but works well enough. It can turn white gel coat tan and it smells like amonia. 3m, menzerna or americana make decent compounds for gel coat. As for multi steps, most boat compounds are designed to finish glossy. If you know what you are doing, finesse it or perfect-it by 3m is a one shot deal. Wipe clean and apply polish/sealer/wax (never wax) go 1 step better and wash the boat between compounding and polishing. SV--- Use double-sided wool pads, especially on a sailboat. White for grinding, yellow for polishing. Use your DA or random orbital polisher after compounding to help remove swirls if you have any. Then move to either a wash or straight to polishing. As for wax, stop using carnuba! It's such a bad coating unless you're inside at a car show or living 50 years ago. To all the dicks saying "you're doing it wrong!" or "you/your product(s)suck," Eat ass. This guy's trying stuff, learning. The title wasn't "best and only..." I see so few boaters really give a shit that I'm honored each time I meet or in this case, see someone doing it on their own boat. To all of you who talked that trash; I challenge you to a buff-off, on youtube and before everyone. We'll see if you have even the hint of what it takes to run your mouths. Good stuff SV. You should have seen me the 1st year of my buffing career, you're on the right path.
Good video. Somebody else already has the correct steps for your compounding polishing and waxing. As far as the stainless goes, that's a very good product for using. But it's basically CLR and toothpaste. As far as the ladder, I will go with full strength Heineken. Go big or stay home LOL ☠
Good call. Definitely use a variable speed buffer on old gel-coat. A random orbital buffer only works for polishing up new boats. Using one on old gel-coat is a complete waste of time. Learned that the hard way.
Gelcoat is definitely an entirely different beast, rotary all day. I went cordless with rotary, with the M18 Fuel. I will never, *ever* go back to corded! It is so nice to not worry about managing that friggin cord around huge boats and RVs.. especially don't miss wrestling cords up and down ladders.. worth every dollar!
its called cut and polish for a reason, you are cutting but not polishing.. but its all right.. have another beer and try again another day.. good excuse to get on the boat
Please everyone Used a mask n gloves when polishing Cutting componds Polish Waxes It’s dangerous to lungs to breath that shit in You will hear him trying to clear his throat n cough,I’m just trying to help,not hang crap on you Also get a spray bottle with fresh water n spray a mist over surface before compounding It will help compound to work the surface better.
Buff magic heavy cut is white..it won't leave that tan look..the reason it turns your gel coat tan is because your not cutting all of the oxidation off..it is basically shoving it in not cutting it off..25 yrs experience here folks☺ also you shouldn't have to keep applying compound to the gelcoat
Good video but you really want to use a polymer polish on your boat, the car wax gets eaten away after a few weeks. I have a 98 Sea Ray Sundancer 270 and the first couple seasons I owned it I used a car wax. Last year I discovered polymer and it made a world of difference. I was able to bring the gel or back to look better than most of the newer boats in our marina, also it really makes the subsequent seasons much easier when it’s time to clean the boat.
I'm going to try the 3M stuff (rubbing compound ). I started with 400 and then 800 wet/dry and then used mothers aluminum polish for a rubbing compound. It worked great but hey, ya never know right?. Always room for improvement, and if it's no better so what. Thanks for the tip. Foot note, that mothers mag polish works better on yellowish foggy head lights than any of the products they make for that application and no power tool buffing. Wipe on, wipe off. That's where I got the idea to use it on the boat.
You shouldn't use a car product on a boat or a boat product on a car (polishes/waxes/sealants) they're both very different surfaces. They need to be dealt with very differently. czcams.com/video/drYep542ML4/video.html
@@Local_Boydidgood I forgot about that post. I lost interest in it, I had other things going on with it ( redo floor, repair gas tank) just now getting back to the finish. As I said in the other post it's 1/2 done and I'm tempted to leave it the way it is. I'm going to try this compound and watch some of those videos. Thanks again and I'll let you know how it goes.
The gelcoat should not only shiny but clean. As stated in another comment, use a polishing compound and take your time. That patch of gelcoat should have taken longer. Marine wax!!! The reason marine grade stuff is more expensive is because it is meant to withstand the abuse of the marine environment. You should only use marine grade materials on your boat. Not only will it last longer, but it will cost less in the long run if you have to keep replacing stuff that deteriorated due to the wrong environment and standard.
I quit the brown compounds to ugly on the residue... the white Malco tru-cut "heavy duty" is water based (easy clean) and white...Im doing a 30 year old 16 footer and the gel coat is a mess...
Watch this video to see everything you should NOT do when compounding and waxing gel coat. One thing he did do right was use 3M products. He is using automotive products on this gel coat. Never use automotive compound and automotive wax on gel coat. Did you notice the brown stain from the compound. 3M makes excellent marine compounding and wax products. Use them or something equivalent. If you really want to learn how to restore neglected 40 year old gel coat then go to 3M's marine web site. The have detailed instructions on how to do it. I have followed the 3M method and it works great. If you want badly oxidized and neglected gel coat to look factory new and also be durable then there are not short cuts. Get ready for a lot of work and do it the 3M way.
Just wondering... wouldn't it be better wetsanding the crap out of that gelcoat (literally), before buffing? You are dealing with an awful lot of waste (old gelcoat and dirt)...
Wet sanding is great on big flat sections. On a sailboat, no way. Not without removing every piece of hardware. A good wheel, compound and some skill and in 20 years, Ive never had to wetsand and I'll put my work against anyone's on youtube. Wet sanding and crevasses and corners... Not going to happen. A soft wool wheel, some rpm's and a working knowledge of rubbing compound's reaction to old gel coat will however restore 97% of all oxidized boats. The other 3% should be burned to the waterline.
@@robandnikki1 Sandpaper is no different than compound in terms of what it does to the GELCOAT. You said the 3M product was equivalent to about 1000 grit wet dry paper. With either you are still removing a very thin layer of gelcoat. The end result is the same.
5 zero steel wool with soap when you first wash it. Obviously if you're a boat detailer how do you expect to make money wasting time on 1 boat? I get 5 to 6 done in 13 hours top to bottom with 1 person helping me. And you do the stainless at same time. Freaking amateurs. No offense but that's a free tip I just gave you.
I generally used a orbital buffer to apply compounds with a cloth bonnet and you used tge high speed pollisher wool pad for stripping . I also noticed your machind was kicked out on you. If you use it from the side it will help. Ive used those machines for a while.
@@sidhollowell182 ended up using 80 grit sandpaper, took it right off. Of course the gelcoat was thin in some places so I'm going to have to repaint the boat. There was a couple of places where the fiberglass was damaged by aparent collisions so I figured it'd have to be painted anyway. I'm thinking acrylic? What say?
@@sidhollowell182 just the topside for now. It'll need a bottom, I figure I'll do that last. I'm about to make a video about it here in a bit. czcams.com/video/-eOwzinO8Ug/video.html
SV Definitely Maybe - Thanks for posting a video showing Diamond Magic in action. Let me know when you run out and I'll send you a free bottle of Diamond Magic. Thanks! Alex B.
@@grantsmith6052 Grant, after you use Diamond Magic to clean the stainless steel, clean it with water and remove all the residue. Then dry the stainless with a clean rag or paper towel and follow up with stainless steel polish to protect the surface.
Another way to make sure yr cutting that oxidation is cut let yr boat set 24 hrs..that oxidation will bleed back out..40 yr old boats are a challenge. .especially sail boats..believe me you aren't going to get that out in one go around..it should be way shinier than that
3m, definitely THE best marine products going, but Maguires??? 3m Marine paste wax is all I have ever used on my 11 year old Sea-Ray. My boat still looks like new.
This 3m line is horrible. Except the heavy cut compound which must be stirred every month or so (it seems) or it becomes a solid ball at the bottom of the bottle. But, in its natural state, it's fine. The rest, carnuba-based (note to 3m: the 1950's happened a long time ago. Lots has happened) So, they want you to buy lots of their products to keep your boat looking new... Old game. I can use their stuff but add a step or three (dozen) and blow that finish away both in gloss and especially longevity. You don't even have to be a professional. Stop using carnuba! (unless you love the smell like I do) seriously, STOP! 3M, STOP! Their buffer: like holding a vw thats all turbo. Heavy, loud and the weight isn't balanced. A clear case of engineers not asking a detailer how a buffer should be built for us. I helped design a buffer (unnamed here) If you do boats, then you probably will or are already using it. ( I offered the design to 3M, they went another direction again) I'm disappointed in 3M.we should all be.
SV Definitely Maybe I thought so. We have a 1979 Gulfstar 44 MC trawler. I recognised a lot of similar fittings. I like the stainless cleaner I will try that for sure.
The parts that look tan around where i waxed is the dirty wax getting caught in the pits of the oxidized gelcoat. the rest looks darker because it is smooth, reflecting the actual color of the gelcoat instead of the white chalky oxidation.
Appreciate your attempt but you haven't a clue what you are doing. This could be a "How NOT to compound and wax...." Suggest you read and view professional boat polishing forums and videos.
@@xtreambackman it's really a lot of elbow grease. If your will to do it, it will take you a while. And once you start you can't stop lol or you'll have part shiny boat part dull boat. Here's what to do. Start with a small spot, wash it dry it and see if you can tell if most of the chalky stuff came off. If it did, get some me good course buffing compound and buff that spot. If it shines to your liking, move on to polish and wax. If not, then here's the rest of the story. And you will need to do this on the whole boat. Go get wet sand paper, 800- 3000 grit, you will need it all. Get a good quality spray bottle and dish soap. Wet the are with the spray bottle and soapy water. Start with 800 grit. Sand the area, you will see a chocolate milk shake color coming off the boat. This is normal, this is the oxidation coming off the boat. It will turn a milky white and feel smooth to the touch. At that point, move to the next grit. You are basically removing the scratch marks from the 800 grit at this point so you will not have to sand as long. Once you've reached the 3000 grit, clean and dry, buff to shine polish and wax. They charge 40 to 170 bucks a foot, yes a foot to do this in a professional boat repair shop. It is a tremendous amount of work but the boat will look like new again once it's done. Unfortunately if it goes back dull shortly after all this your gel coat is gone forever. It will be time for a new gelcoat or have it repainted. 3 m has the best products. And make sure to see what rpm to run both compound and polish at. Sometimes they vary. You will a variable speed sander buffer. Happy buffing.
My friend, you skipped a step, you should never go from a rubbing compound to a wax, you have to use a polishing compound first, its like going from 1000 to finish, you need to progressivly polish out the Gelcoat for long lasting results, in this case your just filling the scratches you made with wax. There are some really great articles on this subjuct (you might want to read up its not as simple as grabbing your polisher and hitting the boat) its quite a intresting chemstry, oh speaking of which, if I can give you a tip on waxes, professional boat detailers and dont use car wax on your boat, its not designed to last, think about it how any times a yea r do yo wash and wax your car? Your boat? See what I mean, use a good quality marine wax that conatinas Polymers not Carnuba and your hard work will last much longer! Keep up the hard work good boating to you!!
Wrong. The polishing compound will make that somewhat shine you have into an amazing shine. Color has nothing to do with it. What you are saying is because its white you cant see all the swirl marks you just put into it. I appreciate the product info, but skipping the polishing compound is just doing an ok job instead of really making it glow.
Local boydidgood I respect your opinion and what works for you, however the 3 step process is tried and true. You must keep in mind that this is an instructional vid, not a ive done it 100 times vid. To the avg person he is skipping a step that is proven to be extremely important.
I have been detailing yachts for 20 years and there are many many things wrong with what is happening in this video.At least he is using a rotary buffer.That boat looks like it hasnt been waxed in over 3 years probably longer at that point the oxidation in so deep it will need many passes with a serious compound.I could go on and on but wont.
That is not a shine! They do not explain getting into where the sander does not fit, do it by and like I did mine. I will do a video on the process and polish that I used. See my boat on my channel
Throw that 3M garbage away and try Smoove wax products. Their 1000 heavy cut compound will make that gel coat shine like it was new. I swore by 3M until I was introduced to Smoove wax
The only way to truly get rid of oxidized and flaws in gelcoat. Are to re gelcoat or wet sand. Really not bat to wet sand. 800 1500,2000! I'm picky, so 3000 is my next step after 2000. My boat is 32 y.o.! Looks showroom all original. Had scratches but 7-10
I was not impressed. What works for me is to gently wet sand (using sanding blocks) with 1000 grit on washed fiberglass. Usually that is enough for sanding followed with polishing using 3M's Imperial with a wool polishing head on a buffer. Waxing is best at least from my experience using the large Harbor Freight foam waxing pads at about $10 each on my Makita buffer. I also apply both the polish and wax directly to the fiberglass and ALWAYS keep the surface wet both polishing and waxing with water & dish soap from a spray bottle. But to each his own--
3M products are not the best, in fact there re many products that are dar superior. "Presta" is far better and the product we use. Also, your mop head is worn out making the job much more difficult. Get a two sided mop head with a stand off and your shoulders will thank you.
Good job bro do worry about the professionals in comments that live in there moms basements and don’t own a boat!! Your just trying to help people and I appreciate that 🤘
a tip: you can watch series at flixzone. Me and my gf have been using it for watching loads of movies these days.
@Waylon Joshua Definitely, been watching on flixzone for since december myself :D
Hi mate
That stainless cleaner is good,
I’m a pro boat detailer in Australia
Ok now to polishing
3m products are amazing
I always used a rotating buffer for the heavy work with 3m compound
Then I used a dual action polish machine for waxing,
Waxes I only uses
My favorite is
Collinite fleetwood wax,its a hard paste wax,its a USA product
Or
Merguiars carnuba wax,its a hard paste wax
For long lasting shine.
Always apply waxes with a hand foam applicator
Foam applicator must be damp(wet) when in use
Don’t skimp on products,apply a good amount of wax to small area Nd dual action polisher to work wax to a brilliant shine.
Cheers matey
I hope is helps people
Good info thanks
Years ago a friend that does it as a pro taught me to use a wooden paint stir to clean the pad. While it is spinning just hold the end of the stir to it and it will clean all the excess compound off. Eventually the stir will be rounded off but works great. Love the steel polish that is awesome, thanks
A screwdriver also works well.
I tried to use a dual orbital buffer for a few seasons with several different types of compounds. Until I finally bought a high speed rotary polisher (Makita 9237), I was just wasting my time. The right polisher makes all the difference. Dual action orbitals are fine for light polish and waxing but not for compounding oxidation based on my experience. You need high speed rotary.
From what we can see looks like a really nice boat for 43 years in the elements
I ordered diamond magic thanks to this video… Thank you so much great stuff!
you were doing your best I say good job the haters probably don't own a boat....
just to see if you have ever used old english lemon oil it is the most awesome thing for stainless steel and is very simple to use on kitchen appliances for the wife. please let me know if you get a chance to use.the bottle goes long long way I've used same bottle for over five years.thanks for your time and video.
Big fan of Diamond Magic...
Matt Vaquer Well, you don't necessarily have to just because compounding but he's using stuff that really won't "shine" up the gel, only gloss it up a bit. The compound he's using is horrible but works well enough. It can turn white gel coat tan and it smells like amonia. 3m, menzerna or americana make decent compounds for gel coat. As for multi steps, most boat compounds are designed to finish glossy. If you know what you are doing, finesse it or perfect-it by 3m is a one shot deal. Wipe clean and apply polish/sealer/wax (never wax) go 1 step better and wash the boat between compounding and polishing.
SV---
Use double-sided wool pads, especially on a sailboat. White for grinding, yellow for polishing. Use your DA or random orbital polisher after compounding to help remove swirls if you have any. Then move to either a wash or straight to polishing.
As for wax, stop using carnuba! It's such a bad coating unless you're inside at a car show or living 50 years ago.
To all the dicks saying "you're doing it wrong!" or "you/your product(s)suck," Eat ass. This guy's trying stuff, learning. The title wasn't "best and only..." I see so few boaters really give a shit that I'm honored each time I meet or in this case, see someone doing it on their own boat. To all of you who talked that trash; I challenge you to a buff-off, on youtube and before everyone. We'll see if you have even the hint of what it takes to run your mouths. Good stuff SV. You should have seen me the 1st year of my buffing career, you're on the right path.
czcams.com/video/drYep542ML4/video.html
Take a look at this. It will show you how I get results, you can adapt them for most gelcoat surfaces.
Good video. Somebody else already has the correct steps for your compounding polishing and waxing. As far as the stainless goes, that's a very good product for using. But it's basically CLR and toothpaste. As far as the ladder, I will go with full strength Heineken. Go big or stay home LOL ☠
Good call. Definitely use a variable speed buffer on old gel-coat. A random orbital buffer only works for polishing up new boats. Using one on old gel-coat is a complete waste of time. Learned that the hard way.
A Walton
Buffers like this one work well. We use them to buff cars.
Milwaukee 5540 11 Amp 7-Inch Polisher www.amazon.com/dp/B00004TQE5
Gelcoat is definitely an entirely different beast, rotary all day. I went cordless with rotary, with the M18 Fuel. I will never, *ever* go back to corded! It is so nice to not worry about managing that friggin cord around huge boats and RVs.. especially don't miss wrestling cords up and down ladders.. worth every dollar!
Are you in rainbow Bay marina?
its called cut and polish for a reason, you are cutting but not polishing.. but its all right.. have another beer and try again another day.. good excuse to get on the boat
Please everyone
Used a mask n gloves when polishing
Cutting componds
Polish
Waxes
It’s dangerous to lungs to breath that shit in
You will hear him trying to clear his throat n cough,I’m just trying to help,not hang crap on you
Also get a spray bottle with fresh water n spray a mist over surface before compounding
It will help compound to work the surface better.
Feel like billy May's lol classic dude nice
Use the bottle nozzle to rough up the wool pad. per Drake's Detailing
Buff magic heavy cut is white..it won't leave that tan look..the reason it turns your gel coat tan is because your not cutting all of the oxidation off..it is basically shoving it in not cutting it off..25 yrs experience here folks☺ also you shouldn't have to keep applying compound to the gelcoat
Rhonda Heidgen when you know you know 💪💪💪
Good video but you really want to use a polymer polish on your boat, the car wax gets eaten away after a few weeks. I have a 98 Sea Ray Sundancer 270 and the first couple seasons I owned it I used a car wax. Last year I discovered polymer and it made a world of difference. I was able to bring the gel or back to look better than most of the newer boats in our marina, also it really makes the subsequent seasons much easier when it’s time to clean the boat.
I'm going to try the 3M stuff (rubbing compound ). I started with 400 and then 800 wet/dry and then used mothers aluminum polish for a rubbing compound. It worked great but hey, ya never know right?. Always room for improvement, and if it's no better so what. Thanks for the tip. Foot note, that mothers mag polish works better on yellowish foggy head lights than any of the products they make for that application and no power tool buffing. Wipe on, wipe off. That's where I got the idea to use it on the boat.
You shouldn't use a car product on a boat or a boat product on a car (polishes/waxes/sealants) they're both very different surfaces. They need to be dealt with very differently.
czcams.com/video/drYep542ML4/video.html
@@Local_Boydidgood I forgot about that post. I lost interest in it, I had other things going on with it ( redo floor, repair gas tank) just now getting back to the finish. As I said in the other post it's 1/2 done and I'm tempted to leave it the way it is. I'm going to try this compound and watch some of those videos. Thanks again and I'll let you know how it goes.
Best part is Max Middleton's piano solo at the end...
" need a little wind here "
Where do you find that 3 M stripper?
Kip Gibbs
I got the 3M compound and pads at west marine. I think I bought more at NAPA Auto
Less is more when it comes to using waxes and compounds. Also you need a pre was glaze before applying a fjnishing wax to remove swirl marks.
a quarter of the way in i have to change it! i cant take the annoying sound of wind in the mic!
turn your volume off
Definitely gonna try the Diamond magic for my stainless...if you have a dremel, that really works well polishing....thanks...favorable winds!
The gelcoat should not only shiny but clean. As stated in another comment, use a polishing compound and take your time. That patch of gelcoat should have taken longer. Marine wax!!! The reason marine grade stuff is more expensive is because it is meant to withstand the abuse of the marine environment. You should only use marine grade materials on your boat. Not only will it last longer, but it will cost less in the long run if you have to keep replacing stuff that deteriorated due to the wrong environment and standard.
👍🏻
I quit the brown compounds to ugly on the residue... the white Malco tru-cut "heavy duty" is water based (easy clean) and white...Im doing a 30 year old 16 footer and the gel coat is a mess...
Watch this video to see everything you should NOT do when compounding and waxing gel coat. One thing he did do right was use 3M products. He is using automotive products on this gel coat. Never use automotive compound and automotive wax on gel coat. Did you notice the brown stain from the compound. 3M makes excellent marine compounding and wax products. Use them or something equivalent. If you really want to learn how to restore neglected 40 year old gel coat then go to 3M's marine web site. The have detailed instructions on how to do it. I have followed the 3M method and it works great. If you want badly oxidized and neglected gel coat to look factory new and also be durable then there are not short cuts. Get ready for a lot of work and do it the 3M way.
Did you listen after you made and before posting? Wind noise makes it impossible to hear what you are saying.
I just bought that diamond stuff
Just wondering... wouldn't it be better wetsanding the crap out of that gelcoat (literally), before buffing?
You are dealing with an awful lot of waste (old gelcoat and dirt)...
Flemming Jensen
I can certainly see a benefit to doing that. Just makes made me nervous throwing sandpaper down onto the gel coat.
Wet sanding is great on big flat sections. On a sailboat, no way. Not without removing every piece of hardware. A good wheel, compound and some skill and in 20 years, Ive never had to wetsand and I'll put my work against anyone's on youtube. Wet sanding and crevasses and corners... Not going to happen. A soft wool wheel, some rpm's and a working knowledge of rubbing compound's reaction to old gel coat will however restore 97% of all oxidized boats. The other 3% should be burned to the waterline.
@@robandnikki1 Sandpaper is no different than compound in terms of what it does to the GELCOAT. You said the 3M product was equivalent to about 1000 grit wet dry paper. With either you are still removing a very thin layer of gelcoat. The end result is the same.
5 zero steel wool with soap when you first wash it. Obviously if you're a boat detailer how do you expect to make money wasting time on 1 boat? I get 5 to 6 done in 13 hours top to bottom with 1 person helping me. And you do the stainless at same time. Freaking amateurs. No offense but that's a free tip I just gave you.
I generally used a orbital buffer to apply compounds with a cloth bonnet and you used tge high speed pollisher wool pad for stripping . I also noticed your machind was kicked out on you. If you use it from the side it will help. Ive used those machines for a while.
rotate your rag. hold the rag up after use, only small part dirty. 4 fold video..
I got this boat these guys used CHEAP HOUSEPAINT on.... How do I remove paint from gelcoat? D:
Stripper or meuratic acid. Hard scrub brush.
@@sidhollowell182 ended up using 80 grit sandpaper, took it right off. Of course the gelcoat was thin in some places so I'm going to have to repaint the boat. There was a couple of places where the fiberglass was damaged by aparent collisions so I figured it'd have to be painted anyway. I'm thinking acrylic? What say?
What kind of boat is it? And are you doing the Hull or Topside?
@@sidhollowell182 just the topside for now. It'll need a bottom, I figure I'll do that last. I'm about to make a video about it here in a bit.
czcams.com/video/-eOwzinO8Ug/video.html
SV Definitely Maybe - Thanks for posting a video showing Diamond Magic in action. Let me know when you run out and I'll send you a free bottle of Diamond Magic. Thanks! Alex B.
Do you need to neutralize it after you do the stainless steel?
@@grantsmith6052 Grant, after you use Diamond Magic to clean the stainless steel, clean it with water and remove all the residue. Then dry the stainless with a clean rag or paper towel and follow up with stainless steel polish to protect the surface.
Good job
Another way to make sure yr cutting that oxidation is cut let yr boat set 24 hrs..that oxidation will bleed back out..40 yr old boats are a challenge. .especially sail boats..believe me you aren't going to get that out in one go around..it should be way shinier than that
Rhonda Heidgen You could also just wash the compound oil/residue off and let it dry. Look at it in much less than 24 hrs...
3m, definitely THE best marine products going, but Maguires??? 3m Marine paste wax is all I have ever used on my 11 year old Sea-Ray. My boat still looks like new.
Imdoyleking you know 3m owns Maguire's, right?
This 3m line is horrible. Except the heavy cut compound which must be stirred every month or so (it seems) or it becomes a solid ball at the bottom of the bottle. But, in its natural state, it's fine.
The rest, carnuba-based (note to 3m: the 1950's happened a long time ago. Lots has happened) So, they want you to buy lots of their products to keep your boat looking new... Old game.
I can use their stuff but add a step or three (dozen) and blow that finish away both in gloss and especially longevity.
You don't even have to be a professional. Stop using carnuba! (unless you love the smell like I do) seriously, STOP! 3M, STOP!
Their buffer: like holding a vw thats all turbo. Heavy, loud and the weight isn't balanced. A clear case of engineers not asking a detailer how a buffer should be built for us. I helped design a buffer (unnamed here) If you do boats, then you probably will or are already using it. ( I offered the design to 3M, they went another direction again)
I'm disappointed in 3M.we should all be.
@@Local_Boydidgood YOU SAID A LOT, YET MANAGED TO LEAVE NO INSTRUCTIONS OR ALTERNATIVES.THANKS
Is that a Gulfstar?
Sean Carroll yes, a 1975 Gulfstar 43 CC Sloop
SV Definitely Maybe I thought so. We have a 1979 Gulfstar 44 MC trawler. I recognised a lot of similar fittings. I like the stainless cleaner I will try that for sure.
Diamond magic worked great. 3M looked like it just stained it a light tan
707AR15
I thought it was wax residue and would wipe off but you're right, it stayed tan. Odd
The parts that look tan around where i waxed is the dirty wax getting caught in the pits of the oxidized gelcoat. the rest looks darker because it is smooth, reflecting the actual color of the gelcoat instead of the white chalky oxidation.
CFC.
Restorer wax and 3m's "heavy cut compound" are absolute garbage products. (buffing boats for 15 years, teach classes, wrote a book about...)
Illphro what do you suggest?
No idea
Can you make this video again and leave out the wind.
That thing needs some aqua buff
wind screen on mic, wind screen on mic, wind screen on mic.get one, make one, argh !
Appreciate your attempt but you haven't a clue what you are doing. This could be a "How NOT to compound and wax...." Suggest you read and view professional boat polishing forums and videos.
I have an 83 sport Fisher any idea where I should be looking . My gelcoat is really bad oxidized no shine at all
@@xtreambackman it's really a lot of elbow grease. If your will to do it, it will take you a while. And once you start you can't stop lol or you'll have part shiny boat part dull boat. Here's what to do. Start with a small spot, wash it dry it and see if you can tell if most of the chalky stuff came off. If it did, get some me good course buffing compound and buff that spot. If it shines to your liking, move on to polish and wax. If not, then here's the rest of the story. And you will need to do this on the whole boat. Go get wet sand paper, 800- 3000 grit, you will need it all. Get a good quality spray bottle and dish soap. Wet the are with the spray bottle and soapy water. Start with 800 grit. Sand the area, you will see a chocolate milk shake color coming off the boat. This is normal, this is the oxidation coming off the boat. It will turn a milky white and feel smooth to the touch. At that point, move to the next grit. You are basically removing the scratch marks from the 800 grit at this point so you will not have to sand as long. Once you've reached the 3000 grit, clean and dry, buff to shine polish and wax. They charge 40 to 170 bucks a foot, yes a foot to do this in a professional boat repair shop. It is a tremendous amount of work but the boat will look like new again once it's done. Unfortunately if it goes back dull shortly after all this your gel coat is gone forever. It will be time for a new gelcoat or have it repainted. 3 m has the best products. And make sure to see what rpm to run both compound and polish at. Sometimes they vary. You will a variable speed sander buffer. Happy buffing.
My friend, you skipped a step, you should never go from a rubbing compound to a wax, you have to use a polishing compound first, its like going from 1000 to finish, you need to progressivly polish out the Gelcoat for long lasting results, in this case your just filling the scratches you made with wax.
There are some really great articles on this subjuct (you might want to read up its not as simple as grabbing your polisher and hitting the boat) its quite a intresting chemstry, oh speaking of which, if I can give you a tip on waxes, professional boat detailers and dont use car wax on your boat, its not designed to last, think about it how any times a yea r do yo wash and wax your car? Your boat? See what I mean, use a good quality marine wax that conatinas Polymers not Carnuba and your hard work will last much longer!
Keep up the hard work good boating to you!!
If you have a white gelcoat, the polishing compound is not necessary. If you have any darker color than white, you must step down (Polishing compound)
Wrong. The polishing compound will make that somewhat shine you have into an amazing shine. Color has nothing to do with it. What you are saying is because its white you cant see all the swirl marks you just put into it. I appreciate the product info, but skipping the polishing compound is just doing an ok job instead of really making it glow.
Joe Bob I agree with you on this one
@@joebob5998 absolutely disagree. Before you go to the big guns, check my vids. 1 compound, 1 polish. 3 steps are for people who can't perfect 2 imo.
Local boydidgood I respect your opinion and what works for you, however the 3 step process is tried and true. You must keep in mind that this is an instructional vid, not a ive done it 100 times vid. To the avg person he is skipping a step that is proven to be extremely important.
I have been detailing yachts for 20 years and there are many many things wrong with what is happening in this video.At least he is using a rotary buffer.That boat looks like it hasnt been waxed in over 3 years probably longer at that point the oxidation in so deep it will need many passes with a serious compound.I could go on and on but wont.
The like/dislike ratio says it all.
0000 steel wool and water, done
thx god u dont polishing my boat!
That is not a shine!
They do not explain getting into where the sander does not fit, do it by and like I did mine. I will do a video on the process and polish that I used. See my boat on my channel
Just love 'the other produkt'
Oh my good :(
Bar keepers friend works better for bright work..
Swirls in gelcoat.
Hit that machine full speed and go at it sideways. Those marks should be off on first pass.
Flux works better
Look at the way hes holding the buff completly wrong u dont force the buff lol
Wog 2nv sometimes, you do "force the buff" you would know that if you had any history behind you.
I've put my knee on the buffer and most my weight at rare occasions. Sometimes boats need to be taught just who's the boss!
@@Local_Boydidgood OMG! I hope you are not serious.
Should be how not to compound. but atleast you tried.
Kevin Walker
It actually turned out incredible
heineken light? LOL
Throw that 3M garbage away and try Smoove wax products. Their 1000 heavy cut compound will make that gel coat shine like it was new. I swore by 3M until I was introduced to Smoove wax
Where can you buy it?
My buddy owns a marina so I just get it from him. Www.smoovewax.com they are located about an hour from me southern Maryland but have distributors
The only way to truly get rid of oxidized and flaws in gelcoat. Are to re gelcoat or wet sand. Really not bat to wet sand. 800 1500,2000! I'm picky, so 3000 is my next step after 2000. My boat is 32 y.o.! Looks showroom all original. Had scratches but 7-10
hard to buff without a handle LOL
Nick Ferullo no real boat detailer uses a handle, they get in the way.
Handles on a boat, not a great idea. Car guys like them, not boat guys.
That literally did nothing.
I was not impressed. What works for me is to gently wet sand (using sanding blocks) with 1000 grit on washed fiberglass. Usually that is enough for sanding followed with polishing using 3M's Imperial with a wool polishing head on a buffer. Waxing is best at least from my experience using the large Harbor Freight foam waxing pads at about $10 each on my Makita buffer. I also apply both the polish and wax directly to the fiberglass and ALWAYS keep the surface wet both polishing and waxing with water & dish soap from a spray bottle. But to each his own--
3M products are not the best, in fact there re many products that are dar superior. "Presta" is far better and the product we use. Also, your mop head is worn out making the job much more difficult. Get a two sided mop head with a stand off and your shoulders will thank you.
😂 to funny your just turning to gel coat orange cause you don’t know what your doing