Let's Build The Fuselage! RC F-16 - Part 7
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- čas přidán 16. 09. 2022
- The F-16 is really starting to take shape! In this video I start building the fuselage. I use PVA release film for the first time to see if it can prevent the mold primer from sticking to the parts. The internal structure glue up also calls for the use of special made 3D printed alignment jigs/tools.
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Music: Waves, Photon, Best Dream by Obliviga and Tech House vibes by Alejandro Magaña (A. M.):
/ waves
/ photon
/ best-dream - Jak na to + styl
looks very good. Nice to see that not everything has to be done with a CNC mill
Beautifully done!
Thanks Ramy!
I was looking for a comment where someone said how this reminded them of how Ramy RC does things, but here you are yourself!
I am your subscriber,,, Ramy ... Love from Assam,India 🇮🇳🇮🇳👍👍🥳🎉🎉 May Allah bless you
The quality of work here is incredible. Very nice.
Can't wait to see it flying !
That last moment of popping something out of a mold is so satisfying!!
Wow, fantastic job!
Coming along nicely. If you blow compressed air under the parts they will separate from the mold quickly.
So far so good 👍 This is a really cool project and thanks for sharing your progress and technical insights
I'm super glad to have found your channel, I can't wait for part 8!
Looks so Nice
Excellent work. Just found this video on your channel and looking forward to the rest.
Nice work!
Amazing stuff ♥
Very nice project 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽💯
Looking forward next videos
Congrats from Brazil 🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷
Superb!!!
Impressive work throughout! Happy to see your choice of materials and equipment. Very best wishes towards your future projects!
Thank you so much!
I'm very impressed with your quality of work. Being in the hobby for 26 years and doing this for a living I see your level of professionalism, very good work! Subscribed for sure
Thank you so much!
Super Job
Very nicely done.
This reminds me of when I scratch built literally scratch built a F-4 phantom.
Incredible job!
Thank you!
waiting for next step !!!good luck
Glad to have found your channel. Great work!
Thank you!
Good stuff, man!!
great job
Awesome 👍 Thank you for sharing, I appreciate you my friend. On the plus side pulling peel ply would definitely pull the skin out of the mold lol. Smart decision to not use peel ply.
Thanks Greg! I appreciate you!
Perfect
Waiting for next videos
I will check back and subscribe when this project is done. Waiting for the final assembly and maiden flight for this badass
Looking forward to more updates and first flight
Goooooooood work love IS plane
Hey nice build. I use toilet paper alternate to peel ply. I put it on wet part lay up..after 2 minutes I lift off so the excess resin is soaked into paper and after drying it leaves rough surface.
and for edges to come out nice and sharp mix micro balloon in epoxy resin and make a paste..then take a small plastic bag and put paste into it..then move all of it to the plastic bag corner and shape it like a cone. then cut the edge of plastic and you will get yourself a paste applicator. then before putting cloth into the mold, put that paste on all sharp edges where the fabric can not fold enough.
My god this plane look awesome I would louve to see in detail how you have made your plans and how i could make one to !
To pull part out ez of the mold, try a airhole with a 1/16 or 1/8 nozzel, using a 50 to 80 psi at all sides to blow your parts out. adapt and improvies , The psi that I used on surfboard car parts. Oh on your mold I wood airbrush with number 5 head to spray a even tack Chot two or three times parts will good .
when using PVA put drops of detergent soap
I hope it helps
cool
hey! there are some ptfe coated peel plies that are easier to release from the part! might be worth taking a look
Wow...
Just watched the entire series so far in one go. Super impressed!
For sure, even if I had the materials and space to do such a thing, I would certainly lack the patience and attention to detail that you display here. An awesome job!
Looking forward to seeing the finished product, and of course subscribed to see just that, when the time is there :) Keep it up!
I have been spoiled by having access to laser cutters at work. It always feels like an imposition when I have to do precision work like that by hand any more. But that's some exceptional craftsmanship right there. Well done.
Thank you! As I'll note in the next video I think that's the last time I'll be cutting out parts by hand like that lol. I'll almost certainly go laser cut for cutting plywood parts as it's extremely time consuming to do by hand.
@@3DParadigmDesign it is indeed! Nothing wrong with using tools to minimize such work if it's not enjoyable.
The part where the glass does not bend very well, mix up some cabosil and epoxy and apply it there on that portion of the fuse. Micro balloons run too much. Cabosil thickens up much better and stays in place. Then lay the glass over it.
I've been using West System 406 colloidal silica and tried this for some of the remaining fuselage skins and it worked perfect 👌Will show the results in the next video! Thanks!
love the channel nice work. May I Suggest something with respect to peeling the part from the mold? buy a compressor and flatten the metal pin it should fit in between the fiberglass part and the mold and spray air in between. it will lift with ease.
You can use an airgun to separate the skin from the mold. Blow some air under the skin it will pop right off.
👏👏👏👏👏
You're inspiring. Perhaps you can tell me where I might find files for F14 so I may try printing some molds?
Cgtrader.com is one place!
Me gusta
Applying a 2k coat after primer will give you a perfect shiny surface. Give a try.
What do you mean by a 2k coat?
@@3DParadigmDesign two components coat. Normally poliuretane based. It is used in the automotive industry as finish coat for the car’s paint. You can even use a 2k paint. You get a super clear and strong finish, you can polish it to mirrors shiny. Then apply a couple of layers of wax and ready to mold.
It would be nice if you could tell what programs you are using to develop the design on the computer to make the jigs, molds formers and parts on the 3d printer. Thanks for the videos.
I use Fusion 360 for all the CAD modeling and making STL files out of the jig models. Then I import the STL files into Ultimaker CURA to slice. Then to the 3D printer.
@@3DParadigmDesign Thanks, how hard is it to get your design into the cad program? Getting the molds to fit the plane design I would think is hard. Very nice work.Thanks again.
Where does one find these molds at any or are they 3D making them.
What would you think to attempt to copy a discontinued freewing Su-35 and try to replicate it? I was thinking about getting a laser scanner and get into 3d printing in order to replicate foam planes somehow.
I think it's totally doable in many different ways. You can make a fully 3D printed version of the plane if you like a CAD modeling challenge, or you can go with a similar approach to my F-16 where you make molds for composite layups, or you can do all foam sculpting/carving/hot wire cutting. Really so many ways to replicate the plane.
Great work ! U should maybe hollow out your 3D aligment designs in order to consume less material 😁
Thanks! I print them with 2 perimeters and about 5% infill so they are efficient with material. If I were to make it physically hollow with a hole going through it may actually use more material because then there would be about 2x extra perimeter distance that's it's printing walls for.
WELL never mind i spook to soon...
Instead of brushing the PVA onto the mould, you should really use a spray gun and spray it on, two light coats will suffice. It will give you a nicer finish.
Thanks for the advice!
Yeah I was going to mention that, dilute it with water I think will help, airbrush it or also use a spray cleaner bottle
Well Steve, I have an inexpensive paint spray gun that I use, I set the compressor regulator for 30 PSI. The only time I dilute the PVA is when spraying, the PVA seems to develop spider webs that float. Then the water helps eliminate that issue as PVA is actually drying too quickly. I tried the spray cleaner bottle method but it applied to much and was inconsistent in it’s coverage. The airbrush works, but it doesn’t really work on big moulds. I take it you are in the USA, if so, go to your local Harbor Freight Tool store, they have inexpensive small spray guns for under $30.00 They work really well for this.
Where can I find the gcode for this build?
Dampen a thin rag with pva let that dry then brush a coat will come out Way smoother
Do you wipe the dried PVA rag over the brushed mold?
Good morning, how did you make the molds, did you use CNC machine for carving woody molds?
Thanks
Hi there, they are all 3D printed molds! I have a video all about them: czcams.com/video/eH55p1k6gYg/video.html
what glue did you use for the balsa?
You need a rubber or teflon spatula for releasing those parts from the molds, they won't scratch the part or the mold!!
Thankyou Vetymust ..Mrs..of the is to Thutorial eas 'n..
Tuyệt vời! Xin hỏi khuôn làm bằng chất liệu gì vậy? Dùng chất gì để không bị dính khuôn?Cảm ơn.
The molds are made of PLA plastic made on my 3D printer. Use mold release wax and/or PVA release agent to prevent the parts from sticking.
that's awesome, frm where to get such molds.... and how much would they cost's....
please revert....
thanks & regards..
Nice build, i wonder how much pla did it took to 3d print all the mould parts?
It took about 4kg of filament!
Would you consider make your files available for sale? Would love to scale this up to 120mm size EDF.
I am considering it!
@@3DParadigmDesign I would be forever grateful! Your video and Ramy Rc have inspired me to try to expand my love of the rc hobby to this next level. Learning Fusion 360 from scratch is a challenge to say the least. Look forward to your consideration. And of course Great Work on your project. Look forward to the next installment.
Dope
Hi is there any video or link showing designing of molds by 3d printing
Can you guide me please
Hi. I have one video on 3D printed molds: czcams.com/video/eH55p1k6gYg/video.html
Купи лазерный станок, стоит не дорого, резать будет точно и сразу готовые детали из фанеры
Hi ! i'm very interesting to build this model. what did you base the model scale on? are they "faithful" to the real size?
I based the size off a 70mm EDF. It works out to be about 1 : 13 scale. I did my best to make it scale. I modeled the F-16 based on a 3-view drawing.
@@3DParadigmDesign i got a hight poly 3D model very realistic. but i don't know how to convert it from LOD files to STL file. Very nice job! i would like to do one for me with the Block 20
Hello do you sell the stl file of the mold design please I would love to have a copy
Hey awesome project! Your playlist for this project is backwards - it starts at 7 and goes to 1, so it won't play in order.
Woh I didn't know I had control over the playlist order 😂! Thanks for the feedback, just fixed it!
Nice
Can you tell me what resin is it
Epoxy laminating?
Pva
And what about wax what formulation we should tell store?
How many layers of cloth you kept?
Epoxy: I use West System 105 resin + 205 hardener
PVA: FiberGlast #13 PVA release film
Wax: Turtle Wax automotive wax. There exists other waxes that are more specifically for mold release. You might be better off using those. But I've had good results with the car wax.
I'm using just 1 ply of 6oz fiberglass for the skins.
Thanks
I'm interested in the assembly flashlight at 11.33-12.35 minutes
👍👍👍☕
What is that tool you use to cut the glass cloth??
I'm using a rotary cutter from Fiskars. OLFA also makes a similar tool. It's nice using this tool instead of scissors because it doesn't push the fibers and mess up the weave. But it's important to have a smooth flat surface to cut on or else the rotary cutter will miss some fibers.
awesome project🔥
what glue do you use to glue the plywood to the fuselage?
what glue do you use to glue metal to plywood?
Thank you! I use West System 105 epoxy resin + 205 hardener.
Interested to know what 3D printer you use? And what software please?
I use an Ender 3 Pro, Cura for slicing, and Fusion 360 for the CAD model
I want to do some, is it for sale?
Currently not, sorry!
hello brother could you help me make a 3d model of the cockpit of the su 27 canopy. You f-16 turned out great your work is beautiful.
how is it now ?it looks really good .
It's looking amazing. I'm working on finishing the fuselage - almost there!
@@3DParadigmDesign what power system it will use？
I have a doubt...why haven't you used any longitudinal brace (stringers) that runs through all bulkheads of the fuselage? That would have made your airframe stiffer longitudinally
I considered using them but determined they weren't needed. The spacing between frames is so small that the skin itself doesn't need them for stiffness. The fuselage is actually plenty stiff. There's internal structure that helps with its bending. Like the two support beams for the battery and two longerons between the main landing gear and horizontal stabilizer frames. Also, the inner EDF ducting through the frames provides an incredible amount of stiffness. The fuselage is a double walled tube there essentially.
I see you used fusion 360 to model it, but how exactly did you model it? What did your reference images look like? What methods did you use?
I started the model by importing a 3 view of an F16 (side view, top view, front view) and some cross-sections of the fuselage. Then I made many sketches at different station values and lofted them to make the fuselage. Hard to go into too much detail here. After the build's complete I may make a video that highlights how I modeled it.
@@3DParadigmDesign how did you decide on how far apart to space the ribs?
@@3DParadigmDesign Thank you VERY much btw. I'm trying to make a SAAB 21 in f360.
I sort of guessed based on intuition. I knew the skin was going to be pretty thin (I only used 1 ply) so I knew the ribs and frames had to be pretty close together. Also, anywhere that there's curvature in the skin helps a lot to keep it stiff. Flatter parts like the wings and tails are a bit less stiff. But the 1.5 inch spacing seems to be just enough.
How many GSM fiberglass do you use?
Using 200gsm
@@3DParadigmDesign thanks
WHAT IS THE WEIGHT OF THE FABRIC? AND HOW MANY LAYERS OF FABRIC TO BE GOOD? CAN TELL ME? THANKS HUGS.
6oz/sqyd (200 gsm) I'm using 1 ply (layer).
@@3DParadigmDesign THANK YOU PARTNER FOR ANSWERING HUGS HAPPY NATAN AND NEW YEAR.
How did u made that blue mould?
I 3D printed it! I have another whole video dedicated to the 3D printed molds.
@@3DParadigmDesign is there any other easy way? I'm going to make Cessna 172 . I wS thinking how about if i first build a model then use it as molding by fiberglass. I m not sure if this is a good technique
@@Nonenone-dd6xo that's actually a pretty common technique! It's not easy but making molds is never easy unless you have a 3D computer model and a machine to make the molds for you.
how did you make the molds?
I designed them in fusion 360 and then 3D printed them. I have a whole video on them: czcams.com/video/eH55p1k6gYg/video.html
@@3DParadigmDesign alright so you've designed F-16 with Fusion 360, right? not Autodesk/Solidwork?
That's right!
@@3DParadigmDesign Thanks mate. I'll look for it
I have used Johnson paste wax for over 40 years and PVA, To start out 5 coats of wax for the first time pull. buff real good then do pva. If you have it right it will look like glass, Call me Kevin Matney
,👍❤️
Do you have your own laser cutter?
Nope, would have been so handy though!
@@3DParadigmDesign I keep my eye on some of the lower wattage imports. Haven't pulled the trigger on one yet.
Why don't you use laser machine to cut those wood parts?
I just wanted to make them by hand for the challenge...but after I started I soon realized it was way too much work lol. But I didn't want to place a new order for laser cut parts so just finished them by hand.
where is part 8 ?
:) it's in the works! Target is January.
Update please!
I can't wait! I'm working hard to get the fuselage finished for the next video!
Don't waste time cutting the paper templates. Spray the back side of the paper with spray adhesive and stick it to the plywood. After they are sanded use acetone to wet the paper and it will peel off easy
Много ми е странно когато започнете да си правите експерименти с отделителите. За епоксидни смоли се използват отделители на восъчна основа за полиестерни pva. Толкова ли е сложно!!!🤔
:) it was my first time making molds for epoxy+fiberglass and I wanted to try and use materials I already had at home.
I enjoy your work. Shame about the music.
😥 ρɾσɱσʂɱ
Fine.
I'am Liket'$ mister...and My hoby..air modeling...asembly...
Зачем использовать фанеру, если есть 3d принтер и можно все напечатать из HIPS например?
I wanted to use wood as much as possible for internal structure for 2 main reasons. First birch plywood is heavy but it is still lighter than HIPS or PLA plastic. I need to keep weight as light as possible for this build. Second is thermal expansion. I was afraid of making some internal structure out of plastic as it can expand relatively a lot compared to wood. I didn't want the plane deforming when it gets warm.