Wings! - To 3D Print or Not to 3D Print? - RC F-16 Build Part 9
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- čas přidán 2. 08. 2024
- What's an F-16 without its wings right? In this video I build the wings which gives the F-16 the last of its main structural components. I encounter an issue with the original fiberglass wing design (my bad!) that causes me to change direction with the wing build. Version two of the wing gets 3D printed from LW-PLA (lightweight PLA).
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Music: “Insomnolence Interlude” and "Eclipse Electric" by Obliviga and Tech House vibes by Alejandro Magaña (A. M.):
/ insomnolence-interlude
/ eclipse-electric - Jak na to + styl
I hope you continue to make these videos. I know they are time consuming but your skill is amazing. Thank you
No worries, the next video is in progress, albeit slowly. Life's been super busy for me lately, hence the slow progress. Thank you!
Waiting for the final build video and maiden flight of this beautiful build!
Oh god you came back
It looks fast!
Superb !!!
great video !!! and
beautiful plane
Very fine work!
well done video of the well done build!
Super nice Projekt...
Dope video man!
Wow Ive been so excited for this video and its finally out :D
Finally waiting for your update, welcome back
You have amazing skill, talent and patience. Awesome build. i just binged the whole series. I need more. Hurry up, lol. Keep it up bro. Cant wait to see you paint it. It's always my favorite parts of projects whether my own or someone else's.
Nice
Waiting for your next video...
im really exited to see if you allow us to buy and use your files and build our own f16 !! tnx
Could you do a tutorial on how you design the wings in fusion?......looking forward to seeing a flight video 🤙
You do great work. I'm interested to see how you're going to test the esc static. Under load it's going to generate more heat.
I've been thinking static thrust requires the most power (and therefore generates more heat) because there is a greater difference between incoming vs outgoing air velocity. The edf will have to work harder to suck in air through the inlet duct because the plane has no air speed. And because the airspeed is zero there is much less air flowing through/rushing through the inlet duct other than what is being sucked in by the edf. So there would be less air cooling of the esc.
@@3DParadigmDesign That's absolutely right, I think @alwaysflying6540 didn't get what kind of static test you are trying to do. Running the edf on the ground will most likely result in more heat/less airflow on the esc than running it in flight.
I have the Freewing 70mm F16 and found the Freewing EDF unit very marginal. I swapped it for the FMS 70mm EDF power unit and it completely transformed the flying ability of the model. I's strongly recommend you change to the FMS power unit. Good luck with the maiden.
Do you know the kV of the Freewing motor you had? They had several kV options and I chose the highest one (2300kV) to get the most thrust.
really nice! What tolerance did you use for the carbon rod holes?
LW-PLA Is nice and yes, it's also easy to sand but it's still PLA. What I would be worried about is the warping by simply leaving it exposed to the sun or even forgetting it inside the Car during a hot summer day. There is a company that sells Files of LW-PLA models that utilize gyroid infill which they say makes the wing or fuselage very robust and gives the feel of a foam model and also helps to reduce warping but I'm not sure about it, maybe you can give the wing a coat of epoxy finishing resin to help reduce the warping problem.
And btw, about the 3D printed moulds, are you sure they didn't warp during the Print? if they warped during the curing time when you laid the Epoxy it could also be the heat from the epoxy itself. Are those from PLA? maybe you could try PETG next time, or if possible ABS+.
Since I've had luck so far with LW-PLA with another RC plane I'm going to give it a try without any further mods and see how it goes. I can always reprint later on if warping becomes an issue.
For my molds, yes they were just PLA and I'm still not sure what happened and why the wing cured weirdly like that. One thing I know for sure is that I printed with little infill (4%) in the "grid" pattern and when the infill lines "crossed" eachother it ended up disconnecting the lines. Hard to describe but essentially the mold surface wall didn't really have any infill support. So it was flimsy. I recommend switching to gyroid infill and maybe going up a few percent in infill density. I started doing that with later parts and it resulted in much more robust molds - probably like the example you mentioned. Gyroid is my favorite infill pattern if I want a robust part. In general I had no issues with PLA molds except those thin wing molds.
I'de be curious what your slicer predicts the weight to be if you used PETG vs LWPLA. Plus is the work of fiberglass worth the weight savings? 3rd ever consider low expansion spray foam internal? Fewer internal spars with greater rigidity.
If I printed out of PETG it would weigh about 76g (for just the printed parts. doesn't include the carbon rod or wood tabs). So that's a bit heavier than the fiberglass wing. Is the fiberglass work worth it? I'd say it depends. If the whole plane was printed from PETG it would be very heavy and probably wouldn't fly well. It could instead certainly be printed from LW-PLA to save a lot of weight and fly better. It's truly a lot of work building it with molds, composite skins, and wood internal structure. It would have been way easier for me (considering I'm very comfortable CAD modeling) to make the plane fully 3D printed. But it wasn't about what was easier. I wanted the experience of doing it with fiberglass/molds. I didn't consider low expansion spray foam but that's a good idea too! There are many ways to build RC airplanes. Just depends which way you want to do it.
Mmm what if you use the 3d print to lay on the fibre glass. Partial or full cover? Depending on where you need the strength. A bit like a cnc cut foam wing. Laurie. NZ. 😊😊
That's a good idea! Exactly. If needed I could apply some fiberglass on just the outboard half of the wing to stiffen up the wing tip. I would also consider that as its own building technique. You can go all fiberglass, all 3D print, or a hybrid or the two like you mentioned.
LWPLA does not do well in any form of heat. Even a sunny day. Consider LWPLA-HT (High Temp). Heavier and more difficult to print but is heat resistant.
With the weight you saved you could easily cover the 3dp wing in a fiberglass.
I'll be keeping the plane out of direct sunlight most of the time. This LW-PLA can handle some amount of sun. I have another RC plane that's fully printed out of this LW-PLA and it's been holding up great. No deformation. I keep it out of the sun when it's not flying. I will also be painting these wings. I wonder if that'll help protect it from the sun a bit?
The skins of the original fiberglass wing were by far the heaviest part of the wings. The skins alone weighed about 36 grams. If I were to cover the 3D printed wings in fiberglass I could potentially go with a much lighter fiberglass to try and get the weight back down.
Indeed. I use 3/4 oz cloth. It's almost like tissue paper and make sure to remove most of the resin after wetting it out. I use good old toilet paper for that.. @@3DParadigmDesign
Why did it take 7 months to make the wings
Merhaba muhteşem bir iş çıkarıyorsunuz elinize sağlık. Bu projenin 3d kalıbına ve donatı pdf ine sizden temin etmemiz mümkün olursa çok sevinirim
Can you do video how to make crate molds
I have another video that talks about the molds. Maybe the only step missing is how I modeled them in Fusion 360. It was quite simple though. You basically create a box and "cut away/remove/subtract" the section of the airplane from that box. And you have a mold! czcams.com/video/eH55p1k6gYg/video.htmlsi=fFD9lDg74ClBITFW
Hi, which printer model you use?
Hey, I'm using an Ender 3 Pro
The molds warped but you are not wortied about the printed wings warping?
That's a good point. I'm still not 100 percent sure what caused the fiberglass wing issues. One thing I didn't mention in the video is that the infill in those wing molds didn't adhere to the skins/walls of the mold. So that could have resulted in the mold surfaces being able to buckle or flex more overnight. The molds didn't permanently deform from the heat though. That's the main thing I'd be concerned about for the 3D printed wings.
@3DParadigmDesign maybe the humidity in the air caused the wood parts to expand and contract, and because they were glued to the fiberglass, the skin caused it to pull from the mold?
@@alwaysflying6540 that's a possibility
Hi, what are the dimensions of the aircraft ?
30 inch wing span, 47 inches long. It's roughly 1:13 scale.
@@3DParadigmDesign Thanks, me too I'm I'm designing aircraft but not f16.
@@karama5478 is that the loyal wingman you're making?! I really like that plane and considered making one myself!
@@3DParadigmDesign I started with loyal wingman design for my graduation project but my school wanted another design. So, I used loyal wingman fuselage as a reference (I make some changes according to my needs) but different wing layout, wing span, wing sweep angle and different ruddervator layout. I designed two models for my graduation project. One for carrier takeoff and landing and other one like loyal wingman but different wing, ruddervator and some changes on fuselage. I shared Loyal Wingman model on my Grabcad account. But other two designs I only share pictures of them on LinkedIn account.
Pdf?
You did your mold wrong. You should print your wing not the mold. After you print your wing, you should sand it and polish it, make it nice and smoth. Next step is coverd it with special mold resin after that you will apply several layers of fiber glass. Now you have your propper mold done. With this kind of mold you can make your fiber glas wing and it will NEVER bend.
never use 3D printing , for a mold
I've been doing this for 40 years
It never goes well !!
Cheers
Phil
I wouldn't say never! I've used 3D printed molds successfully for the entire rest of the build and have seen quite a few others use 3D printed molds as well. There are some draw backs but there are also advantages! For me the biggest attraction was I could make the molds entirely myself for just the cost of filament.
Surely you don`t have "enough" experience with 3d printed molds. We have been using it for several years. No issue. Yes, I see you have 34 more years of experience than me. At my flight club we have some oldtimers than roll their eyes when we talk about 3D printing. In their minds that is not how you build a plane. That`s true is some ways. But still, you can.
RamyRC seems to do pretty well with that method.
If you've been doing something for 40 years and it never goes well, maybe 35 years ago you should have re-thought something...