Sixty-five years ago I played drums in a regionally famous Western Swing band called Hurshul Clothier's Oklahoma Travelers. Old Hursh always left his G string sticking up out of the peg box an inch or inch-and-a-half on which he would park his cigarette while playing. These days no one would do such a thing, but I will always remember his cigarette standing up tall over the peg box. Hursh's bands ranged over much of Oklahoma, Texas, Kansas, and Arkansas and was a fine traveling Western Swing band until he built a large dance hall in Oklahoma.
Excellent tutorial Sheila. I had no idea it was this easy. I inherited my dads fiddle several yrs ago bfore he passed and have never changed the strings, but am using it to teach now, so really wanting to put on new strings. Really glad it's so easy. The lubrication with the pencil is something I've never seen bfore, but a nice touch. I will b subscribing & look forward to watching more video's. :-)
Ok, great tutorial but believe it or not there are a few possible things that can go wrong. Yes, I know, because they just went wrong when I followed this. Yes, change the strings one at a time...very important. When you are tightening the strings look at your bridge and verify that it is not leaning forward due to the stings being tightened. What happened to me is that I did not see the bridge leaning and it fell with a great crash. Just tipped over. Luckily, the sound post did NOT fall. I loosened the strings again, set the bridge back up. No problem. Also, if your bridge does not have a reinforcement for the E string....you will need the little "tube" that comes with the E string. The tube should be placed on the bridge where the string contacts or it will cut through the bridge with time. String changing is not hard! Try it. Good tutorial :-)
to answer a question that some people have asked, to "keep tension" on the loose string, you just hold it straight towards while you wind the peg. Also, be very careful when changing the E string, it may seem easy, but its extremely easy to pop, i just wanted to say that cause she didn't mention it in the video.
I'm refurbishing a friends violin that hasn't been played in years, and the tail gut has broken off so all the strings and tail piece are loose, the bridge was in the case. I'm ordering new parts today including tuners, bridge, tailpiece etc... This is going to be a bit stressful, but this helps a lot. I would have put the strings in the wrong pegs, so thank you.
Actually the small yello piece on the e string IS neccessary because it can wear down the protective piece that sits in the bridge faster than if u put the yellow tube in place
Some answers to your questions: 1. You can start with the G string rather than the E string. For me, starting with the E string is just my habit. 2. It's best to change strings one at a time because your bridge will likely move and there is a risk that your sound post could fall. 3. I do all of the work with my dominant hand (I'm right handed), so my other hand is keeping tension on the string, simply by slightly pulling on it to create tension.
Thank you! First time to do this for my son's violin and all turned out well thanks to your video. Would never have attempted this without seeing someone do it first.
if you mean because the string is metal and it becomes slippery to hold and keep tension on, u can either brace it with the index and thumb so that the string is bent two ways which makes it harder to slip or what i do, is use a glove that has grip, this also helps people with sweaty hands.
Lisa Berman I have a Yinfente 5 String Acoustic-Electric Cello that I've upgraded from Friction Pegs to Machine Heads so that I don't need fine tuners on that tailpiece anymore.
I play electric fiddle. I just changed the strings the first time. I took scissors, cut the old ones off and put the new ones on without any problems. Easy and simple.
It's all the same for Electric Violins too. Of course the only exception I know of is the Viper Electric Violin (up to 7 Strings and with frets):www.electricviolinshop.com/wood-violins-viper-7-fretted-tobacco-burst-quilt-exotic-top.html it's similar to that of re-stringing a Guitar or a Bass (Electric Violins give you the option to remove all the strings cause they don't have a sound post & the bridge always is going to sit on the contact mic), cause the strings load in through the tailpiece, & go up to the tuning machines.
It is possible the soundpost NEVER fell. Look through the E string's (the highest string) "F" hole. If you can see the sound post upright you are likely ok. If it is rattling around inside the violin you are NOT ok. If it fell, just go to a violin shop and get some help. That soundpost is critical to the violin's sound. It is fell, it needs to be put back in place or the violin will not sound good.
Should the fine tuners be uniformly positioned halfway between all the way up and all the way down BEFORE adding new strings? Or, should they all be as high as they can go? Or down? Or, as you are showing, should they only be fooled with AFTER the new strings are put in and prior to tuning? If you say AFTER, should the fine tuners be all the up or down or half way? (I hope I'm making sense.)
Lisa did not want to change the bridge location or the tension on the sound post which can happen if you remove all the strings. Placing a sound post and getting the bridge to where you want it is important. It makes sense to change only one string at a time. What scares me is if the sound post moves because you took all the tension out of the box and the violin is old (shrinking of sound post). On an electric, you crystals are inside the bridge so it does not matter as much.
after all these years I'm sure you already know what to do but for all those who are wondering: you should not take all strings because there is a sound post inside the violin that could fall out if enough tension is lost. If you took off all the strings thats fine; just string it. if you here a rattling inside the body of the violin, then you'll have to take it to a luthier since you probably dont have the tools or the knowledge to properly place it back.
I just broke a wooden peg and replaced it but can't install the string because the end of the string is curled like a phone cable and won't stay in the hole on the peg as I turn it. Should I get a new string? Any ideas? BTW I think this peg system on violins is very obsolete and hard to use. I don't understand why this `ancient ` mechanism is still in use with violins? There are better ways out there used on guitars and etc. that makes is easy to install strings and keep them tuned.
If you get the first rotation to X over itself then tidy up the string along the side of that XIIII it shouldn't be slipping. Also you could lighty rough up the inner peg so it will grip the string a little better.
The first thing that I noticed is that "Lisa" did NOT lock in the string by crossing over it on the first turnaround. She's a pro??????????????????????????????????????
Attach the curled end of the string to a kid's loose tooth. Attach the other end to a Rottweiler's collar. Smack the Rotty on it's butt. The string will straighten, the kid can now grow in a new tooth, and the dog will know that you're his Alpha. Case solved.
What does winding toward the peg head even mean? When you’re twisting the peg head itself this doesn’t help me understand the direction. Toward the body?
She's referring to the direction that the string winds. As you're turning the peg (away from you, like you're starting your car), you can position the string so it winds to the left or the right. You always wind toward the peg head, or toward the outside edges of the violin. For the pegs on the left (the G and D), that's toward the left. For the strings on the right (the A and E), that's toward the right. Hope this helps, I know it's confusing!
So Lisa I have stop training with violin because the e string every time I go and do what you do e string ends up snapping and it makes me super nervous and scared for the bridge mind you it my first violin and I can’t afford another one so I’ve been keeping it safe and haven’t touch it for 2years because fear of losing the most important thing and that’s the bridge but I have no problem replacing and placing the other string that’s easy I fear more of the e string because it can slice through the bridge and I have maybe three more e string but for some reason I just can’t with the e string why is that anyways how do you do it I have so much patience and very careful but for some reason I just can’t with the e string I spend like $100 just on e string so I can keep on trying but no luck what the heck am I doing wrong I really don’t know why e string just keeps on snapping
Are you sure you are lining the E string up properly so its not touching another string, causing extra friction? Or maybe you are creating too much tension on the string. What brand E string are you using? also try to reach a violin teacher or shop so someone can help you. Don’t give up on the violin!
broke 4 A strings in 2 days. If I can't get the fiddle strung up, perhaps it is not my instrument. (I have played string instruments since 1965, changed strings for them too. no problem till now. started fiddle in April.)
I just pulled off the all the strings at once. But somehow i managed to fix them. Now the problem is..i can't tune it..the string sound as if it's going to pop off while tightening...
Sixty-five years ago I played drums in a regionally famous Western Swing band called Hurshul Clothier's Oklahoma Travelers. Old Hursh always left his G string sticking up out of the peg box an inch or inch-and-a-half on which he would park his cigarette while playing. These days no one would do such a thing, but I will always remember his cigarette standing up tall over the peg box. Hursh's bands ranged over much of Oklahoma, Texas, Kansas, and Arkansas and was a fine traveling Western Swing band until he built a large dance hall in Oklahoma.
Thank you, my string broke I was in a panic but then you made it seem so easy to fix. Gosh dang nearly had a heart attack! Thank you so much.
Lisa Berman They also make Wound Violin E Strings which are a bit easier to bow, plus they last longer.
This is the most helpful video on CZcams. Thank you Lisa
Excellent tutorial Sheila. I had no idea it was this easy. I inherited my dads fiddle several yrs ago bfore he passed and have never changed the strings, but am using it to teach now, so really wanting to put on new strings. Really glad it's so easy. The lubrication with the pencil is something I've never seen bfore, but a nice touch. I will b subscribing & look forward to watching more video's. :-)
Ok, great tutorial but believe it or not there are a few possible things that can go wrong. Yes, I know, because they just went wrong when I followed this. Yes, change the strings one at a time...very important. When you are tightening the strings look at your bridge and verify that it is not leaning forward due to the stings being tightened. What happened to me is that I did not see the bridge leaning and it fell with a great crash. Just tipped over. Luckily, the sound post did NOT fall. I loosened the strings again, set the bridge back up. No problem. Also, if your bridge does not have a reinforcement for the E string....you will need the little "tube" that comes with the E string. The tube should be placed on the bridge where the string contacts or it will cut through the bridge with time. String changing is not hard! Try it. Good tutorial :-)
Thank you so much. Your video helped me during this lockdown to fix a loosened Pa string (from carnatic) before my son's online violin class.
to answer a question that some people have asked, to "keep tension" on the loose string, you just hold it straight towards while you wind the peg. Also, be very careful when changing the E string, it may seem easy, but its extremely easy to pop, i just wanted to say that cause she didn't mention it in the video.
Thank you for the close-up! Helped a lot :)
I'm refurbishing a friends violin that hasn't been played in years, and the tail gut has broken off so all the strings and tail piece are loose, the bridge was in the case. I'm ordering new parts today including tuners, bridge, tailpiece etc... This is going to be a bit stressful, but this helps a lot. I would have put the strings in the wrong pegs, so thank you.
A Wittner Tailpiece has a synthetic tailgut to keep it in place
Actually the small yello piece on the e string IS neccessary because it can wear down the protective piece that sits in the bridge faster than if u put the yellow tube in place
Thank you! It worked! The tutorial was perfect.
I use Helicore Strings which have a Slightly Thinner Gauge & Steel Rope Core to make playing the instrument easier.
Some answers to your questions:
1. You can start with the G string rather than the E string. For me, starting with the E string is just my habit.
2. It's best to change strings one at a time because your bridge will likely move and there is a risk that your sound post could fall.
3. I do all of the work with my dominant hand (I'm right handed), so my other hand is keeping tension on the string, simply by slightly pulling on it to create tension.
Thank you! First time to do this for my son's violin and all turned out well thanks to your video. Would never have attempted this without seeing someone do it first.
Lisa Berman This will apply to Viola, & Cello.
if you mean because the string is metal and it becomes slippery to hold and keep tension on, u can either brace it with the index and thumb so that the string is bent two ways which makes it harder to slip or what i do, is use a glove that has grip, this also helps people with sweaty hands.
5:53 This D String is Silver Wound so it'll sound rather interesting
Lisa Berman I have a Yinfente 5 String Acoustic-Electric Cello that I've upgraded from Friction Pegs to Machine Heads so that I don't need fine tuners on that tailpiece anymore.
I play electric fiddle. I just changed the strings the first time. I took scissors, cut the old ones off and put the new ones on without any problems. Easy and simple.
Thanks, your video is helping to replace of E string on my violin.
I broke my new G last night. The seller said they would replace it.
Same
Same
Same
it's fine just put your strings on but with each one keep it a seventh below the pitch to relieve tension until all strings are on.
Thank you a lot, I'll go through this at Monday, wish me a luck:D
You helped me to fit my string
Great explanation, do you have a video on how to tune it?
Thank you
It's all the same for Electric Violins too. Of course the only exception I know of is the Viper Electric Violin (up to 7 Strings and with frets):www.electricviolinshop.com/wood-violins-viper-7-fretted-tobacco-burst-quilt-exotic-top.html it's similar to that of re-stringing a Guitar or a Bass (Electric Violins give you the option to remove all the strings cause they don't have a sound post & the bridge always is going to sit on the contact mic), cause the strings load in through the tailpiece, & go up to the tuning machines.
I already took all the string off:(
It is possible the soundpost NEVER fell. Look through the E string's (the highest string) "F" hole. If you can see the sound post upright you are likely ok. If it is rattling around inside the violin you are NOT ok. If it fell, just go to a violin shop and get some help. That soundpost is critical to the violin's sound. It is fell, it needs to be put back in place or the violin will not sound good.
rip
Should the fine tuners be uniformly positioned halfway between all the way up and all the way down BEFORE adding new strings? Or, should they all be as high as they can go? Or down? Or, as you are showing, should they only be fooled with AFTER the new strings are put in and prior to tuning? If you say AFTER, should the fine tuners be all the up or down or half way? (I hope I'm making sense.)
Lisa did not want to change the bridge location or the tension on the sound post which can happen if you remove all the strings. Placing a sound post and getting the bridge to where you want it is important. It makes sense to change only one string at a time. What scares me is if the sound post moves because you took all the tension out of the box and the violin is old (shrinking of sound post). On an electric, you crystals are inside the bridge so it does not matter as much.
oh, no! I already took all of the strings off my violin - what do I do now?
Yeah.. I just did it.. B4 watching this !!
after all these years I'm sure you already know what to do but for all those who are wondering: you should not take all strings because there is a sound post inside the violin that could fall out if enough tension is lost. If you took off all the strings thats fine; just string it. if you here a rattling inside the body of the violin, then you'll have to take it to a luthier since you probably dont have the tools or the knowledge to properly place it back.
Why can't there be Bowed instruments with a fixed bridge & sound post? This could give you the option to replace all the strings.
I think the fixed bridge and soundpost limits the vibration of the violin hence it doesnt sound as good
@@thithaibinhhuynh8697 They would have to be special made that will allow all sound
I notice your bridge was graduated much like one I can not find anywhere can you help. Thank you Gil
I just broke a wooden peg and replaced it but can't install the string because the end of the string is curled like a phone cable and won't stay in the hole on the peg as I turn it. Should I get a new string? Any ideas?
BTW I think this peg system on violins is very obsolete and hard to use. I don't understand why this `ancient ` mechanism is still in use with violins? There are better ways out there used on guitars and etc. that makes is easy to install strings and keep them tuned.
If you get the first rotation to X over itself then tidy up the string along the side of that XIIII it shouldn't be slipping. Also you could lighty rough up the inner peg so it will grip the string a little better.
The first thing that I noticed is that "Lisa" did NOT lock in the string by crossing over it on the first turnaround.
She's a pro??????????????????????????????????????
Attach the curled end of the string to a kid's loose tooth. Attach the other end to a Rottweiler's collar. Smack the Rotty on it's butt. The string will straighten, the kid can now grow in a new tooth, and the dog will know that you're his Alpha. Case solved.
LMFAO!! I like your humor :-)
Hi what is the name of violin song 0:0 to 0:08 thanks
thanks for the great video
What does winding toward the peg head even mean? When you’re twisting the peg head itself this doesn’t help me understand the direction. Toward the body?
She's referring to the direction that the string winds. As you're turning the peg (away from you, like you're starting your car), you can position the string so it winds to the left or the right. You always wind toward the peg head, or toward the outside edges of the violin. For the pegs on the left (the G and D), that's toward the left. For the strings on the right (the A and E), that's toward the right. Hope this helps, I know it's confusing!
Please help me I broke a couple of my strings when i first got my violin my mom is gonna kill me 😭😭😭
thanks, its solve my problem
So Lisa I have stop training with violin because the e string every time I go and do what you do e string ends up snapping and it makes me super nervous and scared for the bridge mind you it my first violin and I can’t afford another one so I’ve been keeping it safe and haven’t touch it for 2years because fear of losing the most important thing and that’s the bridge but I have no problem replacing and placing the other string that’s easy I fear more of the e string because it can slice through the bridge and I have maybe three more e string but for some reason I just can’t with the e string why is that anyways how do you do it I have so much patience and very careful but for some reason I just can’t with the e string I spend like $100 just on e string so I can keep on trying but no luck what the heck am I doing wrong I really don’t know why e string just keeps on snapping
Are you sure you are lining the E string up properly so its not touching another string, causing extra friction? Or maybe you are creating too much tension on the string. What brand E string are you using? also try to reach a violin teacher or shop so someone can help you. Don’t give up on the violin!
Thanks!
Thank you so much
broke 4 A strings in 2 days. If I can't get the fiddle strung up, perhaps it is not my instrument. (I have played string instruments since 1965, changed strings for them too. no problem till now. started fiddle in April.)
I just pulled off the all the strings at once. But somehow i managed to fix them. Now the problem is..i can't tune it..the string sound as if it's going to pop off while tightening...
hi! do I have to change the e string first? what if I start changing the g string?
Your violin will turn into a mouse.
I successfully did this with the help of my brother
Thanks
I think you mean "graphite"
i have an 1899 eduard reichert violin, probably hasn't had strings on it in 70 years
wow, and it hasn't broken or anything?
is a g string on a viola the same as a violin?!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
yes
É só que Eu soube que não se pode passar as mãos na crina do arco!
Anyone notice that Lisa Berman hasn't been replying to our questions and comments?????
I guess that we are the "deplorables"
Thank you