EVO Sportster Clutch Adjustment : Pro Tip
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- čas přidán 27. 02. 2019
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Is your Sporty clutch dragging a bit, or possibly too much play in the lever? You may not need a new clutch, just an adjustment. We'll walk you through the steps of an adjustment to keep you clutch in perfect working order. #Sportster #Clutch #Adjustment - Auta a dopravní prostředky
See more at Countersteer. www.jpcycles.com/countersteer?EVO_Sportster_Clutch_Adjustment_:_Pro_Tip&I2qeflpEGao
Perfect. Did it this morning when I was also doing a primary chain adjustment. Thank j&p cycles. Your scottsdale store is great.
Thanks. I Watched a couple of videos and they said to just wind the clutch back then back quarter turn.
Your the only guy who said about just winding back until you feel resistance then back it off a quarter turn.
Too easy, thanks
THIS IS THE CORRECT VIDEO FOR THIS JOB. MULTIPLE FIRST GEN NIGHTSTER OWNER HERE, THANK YOU!!!!!!!
Straight to the point, I thank you sire...
Very Good Explanation! Thank You!
Ohhhh. I was wondering why my clutch was feeling all weird. I tightened the adjuster nut like it supposed to be tight. Didn’t know it was supposed to be backed out after resistance. Thank god I watched this video
Nice easy adjustment thanks.
Good stuff Patrick!
Thanks dude
Have adjusted my clutch exactly the way that you are saying
And when I put it.
In gear and let off on the couch and give it gas it goes no we're and the reason I was in the primary chain I had to put a new primary chain adjustment in..and of course new fluid.
To adjust the clutch, do I need to put in a shift or does it need to be in neutral always?
Thank you bro🤘⚡
When you adjust the clutch is also a great time to change your primary/transmission fluid, and check/adjust your primary chain tension. The primary/transmission on an EVO Sportster hold exactly one quart of fluid. When I bought my 2006 Sportster 1200 with 9200 miles on it, I found that some idiot had put almost 2 quarts in it. No matter what you drain out, always put one quart in. If your bike still has the original clutch in it, REPLACE THE CLUTCH. Clutches on H-D EVO engines have what is known as a "grenade plate" in them. The official name for this part is a "spring plate" it is two steel clutch plates with springs between them, and is held together with brass rivets. These soft rivets WILL fail, usually around 15,000 miles, the spring plate will come apart, scatter lots of little pieces of metal in the primary, and usually do serious damage not only to the clutch housing and hub, but can also get into the transmission and wreak havoc in there as well. Get what is called an "extra plate" clutch kit and install it. It eliminates the "spring plate" and the probability of it exploding and doing a lot of damage. While you have it apart, it's also a good idea to replace the release bearing, which is of very low quality, and will eventually fail. If you want to keep replacing it, you can use the original oem bearing, but much higher quality bearings are available. The EVO Sportster is a VERY reliable engine, but those are two MAJOR issues that can shorten it's life. Why H-D continued to use these parts after it became known that they were failing I have no idea.
They want to sell more bikes so they booby trap them for profits? I have to protect my 99 sporty!
@@sunshineandsmiles9668 I believe the "spring plate" was an attempt to make the clutch pull lighter, which it does, though only slightly. But it caused a far worse issue. They continued to use it because their tooling was set up for it. That is not uncommon in vehicle manufacturing. It would last long enough to get through the warranty. As for the bearing, I believe that was just a way to cut costs. It would also make it past the warranty period. Pretty much all vehicle manufacturers do things like that.
@@geraldscott4302 planned obsolescence is the whore of capitalism. It has destroyed countries and is bringing ours down.
@@sunshineandsmiles9668 You're exactly right ! And they have been pulling this crap on their customers for years !! I hope I live to see the MoCo belly up !! If there was ever a company that did not deserve to be in business, it's these crooks !! Besides, there's a big enough aftermarket to keep every Harley owner riding for another 100 years ! , So who needs the crooked sob's ?!!
@@geraldscott4302 - And again... They're freakin' crooks for doin' it !!! They charge a bloody fortune for their products, so there's NO EXCUSE, for, " doin' what the other run of the mill jerks in the industry are
doin' !
Best channel on YT! 👊🏼
Great video!
I just want to say thank you very much. I bought a 883 whife 6000km on clock hard problems whife clutch
Thank you.
You sir just saved me a lot of anger thank you
You make good videos brother
Thanks man
So I've done exactly what you just did in this video and once I put my derby cover on its not allowing me to pull my clutch but it dose with the derby cover off
Brilliant easy video, thanks 👍🏼 just a quick one, say someone set the threaded screw behind the Derby cover to be really tight and snug; like tightening a bolt etc, what effect would that have? Just out of curiosity
The adjuster you screwed in. That plate like thing is it suppose to be a lil loose or am I not feeling enough resistance
I put a new clutch pack in my eco… new cable… new bearing… and still have a dragging problem and Slamming gears after all pre-mentioned adjustments were performed. What am I doing wrong? Is there a brake in procedure I missed. Does the bike need to be hot before the adjustment?
It is an affirmative. I own the 2018 breakout. If you have a chance, please ask me to set a clutch.
At the end you mentioned 'pull thru'.... what does that mean?
I've tried everything from the manual to videos my bike is a 1986 sportster I replaced transmission and clutch now when u shift to1 it creeps while clutch is engaged if I back it off then the handle is to hard to squeeze if I tighten the opposite
I'm having trouble with adjustment screw how to get it adjusted after taking the ball bearing loose I'm getting a whine noise
What forward controls are those?
What does he mean by pull through at the end?
I recentley purchased a 2006 xl 1200c and the other night while riding my rear end went limp. Motor runs stong. It shifts into every gear, but wont move on its own, but its freewheeling in every gear. Tried this, it didn't help. What is wrong with my bike?
What is the nut with the spring called?
I did all this and now when I shift from second back to first it dies is my clutch cable too tight?
Everything on my sporty works fine. It shifts smooth and never grinds when changing gears but when taking off it seems like my bike hit a slick spot and all of sudden catches traction. Does my set screw need to be adjusted a little tighter? Recently changed clutch cable.
I'm guessing you got this figured out by now- but that's possible. When I bought mine it was actually over adjusted, so it FELT "race-tight" but slipped under torque. Of course your clutch is probably on it's way out, and like dude said, you can adjust plenty more life out of it. But If you adjust it like this and it doesn't change much, you can be sure your clutch is basically shot. I adjusted and readjusted mine after riding about 3x before I accepted that I'd be replacing it- it was overdue IMO, and gave me more life than it should have under my use, at 40,000mi. Not a difficult job, not too intensive or time consuming If research, if you are prepared and do it mentally a few times. You can fab ways to get around the special spring tool, but it's usually just worth it to buy things like that.
Can I order that nut and spring for the clutch?
I can't seem to get the gear crunch when first engagement into first?
Doesn't creep.
Recently upgraded my clutch plates and installed a longer clutch cable. I went through this process but I'm still having difficulties in my Sportster to nail N on the first go (this existed with the stock clutch plates and cables, too). Odd, when I turn it off it goes in right away. Maybe I have a little too much play? Or does it need to be ridden a bit more for the new fluid to mix about. I only took it for a spin in the yard to make sure the clutch and brakes were working. Thanks!
I’m having the same issues did you find the cause?
@@joshsmith713 I turned it a couple of times until i bottomed out. So I pushed the felt resistance farther back. Only then, did I do the adjustment shown in this video. Works better for me. Been doing it that way the last couple of years.
the bandit biker - put 'slight' pressure on the shifter and lightly 'blip' the throttle. It will like that, and slip right into "N". If it doesn't work, go through your adjustment once again, just to double check what you did the first time. Harleys are old time designs, and don't generally have the smooth precision of the more modern designed machinery .
If that's the biggest problem you're having with your HD, thank God every night that you got a good one. And just blip the throttle a time or two, and go on with business.
So I did this on my buell to put a cable on, (did a motor swap) now its super loose... do I just need to tighten the bold back up or did takeing my primary case off a little mess me up ?
If the lever is loose but the clutch is operating properly you need to adjust the cable
I have a 04 sportster 883 runs good shifts good but I'm hearing like a grinding our rubbing noise from my clutch area anyone no what that good be its only when the bike is moving when I pull in the clutch and let go of the gas the noise stops
So my clutch feels like it weighs a hundred pounds, even with adjusting the lock nut and adjustment bolt. Would doing what you showed here help, or no?
its a good place to start. Make sure you have the clutch cable adjusted out with a lot of slack before you do the adjustment in the primary.
I just changed my stator on my 2011 nightster. Everything seemed to be good. I followed all the directions now when I put it in first gear and try to takeoff. It doesn’t catch the throttle. I don’t know what I did wrong. Any tips would be great.
I have the same problem trouble taking off
Rip John
Great explanation but what if I’ve done the same n still have a creep/bad shift situation?
If you still have creep then your clutch fibers may be worn down past the point of adjustment.
Bummer I have a buell doing this same thing I have adjusted it every which way and still pulls. I was hoping I was missing something but sound like I need to put in a new clutch
@@motorhead1884 - If the fibers look okay, check to see if all of your 'steel plates' are perfectly ' flat'. No warpage. Lay them one by one on a piece of glass to check. Replace any you find with the slightest bit of warpage.
I did that adjustment but I’m still hearing noise when i release the clutch handle in 1st gear, I installed adjustable hand levers on my wife’s 2019 883. What am I doing wrong?
Do u have an extra plate clutch kit? The energy one kit sounds like squeeling tire when pulling out in 1st
👍🏾🇺🇸
Well , once again this Harley manual of mine was WRONG!! It's IMPORTANT to STOP turning the clutch adjustment screw (in the primary) when you feel tension!!!!
Haha, sorry for your misfortune, but love this, because the number one "answer" posted over and over on the forums is "Buy a manual." I'm like, don't post a reply if you aren't gonna help! So this tickled me- I hope it didn't cause you damage.
Hi, I'm a first time Harley owner. I've got an 883 Sporty a 1992, would this be the same? I have no issue with my clutch except I want the friction zone a little more in the middle of the clutch lever throw. Mine seems to right at the end & I'd like it to be more manageable. Thanx...
Hey did you figure this out? Currently having the same issue on a later model 883. Thanks in advance
@@TheGrizzlygrizz I haven't as of yet & it's raining all day today (Tuesday) But I'm gonna try and see if just a little free play adjustment will work.
Try adjusting the cable first. You’d be widening the adjustment screws out. So it would be a lefty loosey vibe.
Adjust just a ' LITTLE' bit more freeplay in your clutch lever, and it will start to engage a little sooner as you let it out. The dealers always adjust them 'way the hell out' ! I just hate that !! It will also make the clutch 'slip' if it's just a little to far out.
Well yeah hey I'm on the shift Paul saying the two nuts that you said that replace it they don't tighten up well the bottom one it won't tighten up but it won't come off how do I take it off
How do I get nut off when I try it just spins dont comeofc need help
Good run down better than the other ones I looked at. Well I guess I have to replace the clutch on my 2008 Nightster, it only has 17,000 miles?
I only got 7000 miles out of my 08 nightster. There is what they call a grenade ring in our clutch basket between the drive plates in fishing discs there's this double whammy thing with rip brass rivets. And when it blows up those brass rivets go everywhere and The clutch drags like a animal and it's impossible to get neutral.
There's good videos on CZcams for replacing the clutch pack get a Barnett. Plus if you able to borrow the spring compressing tool and save 60 bucks.
WARNING ⚠️
the ears are DELICATE careful not to break the corners off getting that lock ring off. Push in on the ring underneath, so it has room to sneak out.
What causes the feeling of resistance?
the two pieces of metal in there start to hit each other
i´d like to know ...how to ease the grip on the clutch when the restistance feel is a touch too high....without buying this really expensive power or hydro clutch stuff...
Changing to a lighter clutch spring if its too stiff, that could cause it to slip though.
@@jpcycles I know that...but there must be a way to adjust ...so you can go longer tours without massive and steady pain in yr armwrist.
@@caypiranha1246 I would try lubing the clutch cable I would recommend dri slide because it has a nice needle applicator that you can stick down the cable.
@@gmg921 Thx...but I already found a solution.
@@gmg921 great advice that’s what worked for my cable. Just some preventative maintenance
My clutch is chattering when I let it out
Looks like you backed it up half a turn