Sculpt Race Car Flares with Pouring Foam

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Komentáře • 7

  • @bobbywillis9065
    @bobbywillis9065 Před 4 lety +7

    I can watch you for hours.

  • @vinnielamborn621
    @vinnielamborn621 Před 4 lety +1

    I can't stop watching your channel! I have an rx7 too and it's making me inspirated to make custom parts for the car.

  • @ryanworkman5229
    @ryanworkman5229 Před 4 lety

    I saw this come up somewhere on facebook the other day. I know exactly what these guards go on, and if I had a coupe instead of a sedan, I would want a set of these.

  • @JasminMuljeskovic
    @JasminMuljeskovic Před 4 lety +1

    Could I seal the die with PVA (release)? What if I made the die out of clay?

    • @BillsBuildandRace
      @BillsBuildandRace  Před 4 lety +2

      Do you mean make the WHOLE die out of clay? If so the issue here is the clay drying out & cracking. I have just painted over where I've used small amounts of clay to fill cracks, etc and had no trouble with it. A whole clay die" I'd do a small test to see if the Wattyl 7008 seals it. Maybe two coats? Then no wax but two coats of PVA release. But do a test to learn & avoid frustration.

  • @yosemitesam8791
    @yosemitesam8791 Před 3 lety

    I'd love to try something like this, but how do you get the two sides symmetrical?

    • @BillsBuildandRace
      @BillsBuildandRace  Před 3 lety

      Getting the two sides reasonably similar is done by doing a step on one side, then going straight over to the other side to duplicate it there too. When I sculpted my buggy body from scratch I cut our cardboard templates of one side's shapes lines and then checked the other side with them, making adjustments as needed. The final test in this regard is to stand back from your work and move about a little. If your eyes or tape measure can't see a problem then any irregularity really is minor. But the bottom line is - on a race car 100% symmetry isn't critical anyway.