Coming along nicely Matt! FYI when I'm doing angle torque I make a reference mark with a paint pen after initial torque. I use digital angle torque wrenches at the shop and have had one glitch on me and lost the angle and had to start over. Plus having the visual indication of completion is a bonus.
Looking really GOOD. I thought they stopped making 2000R rear brakes a long time ago, and is why I have P2R rears, which take a small amount of machining to work.
Ha. That makes me feel better then hearing even professionals screw them up. They are a pain! I thought about pressing the hub into the bearing then the bearing into the housing but no way you could get them snap ring in after.
highly underrated channel, good job! Great attention to details, appreciate that. PS ditch the Toyota, it's to confusing for me, i hope that's your wife's car or something like that :)
That Toyota Tacoma is one of the best daily vehicles I have ever owned (so far)! Need something to tow around my T-5R and it sure as well won't be an XC90!
After i removed the diff-locker weight inside the rear differential, the car became unstable when cornering. You could really feel it really didnt like corners on dry tarmac. I bought a new lockrrweight and issue dissapaired. P80 AWD.
Probably because it was locking the wheels at high speeds in the corners and making it hard to turn! I bought a proper LSD for this car... the Eaton Detroit TruTrac LSD that all the RWD guys use. I had to design custom billet adapter flanges for the axles and use 960 MKI axles.
Great progress! One question - are you fitting a brake manifold at the end of that brake line? I’m converting flexi pipes to braided and Volvo no longer make part no. 3516569 which is the manifold that splits the pipes to left and right! Are you able to re-use the original?
I’m planning for basically the same swap in my s80 using 01-02 xc70 rear suspension and viscous unit. Do you know if they make upgraded viscous units for those years? Do you happen to know if I can make the radiator fan kick in sooner than 220F? I assume they have the engine run hot for emissions but I don’t like the temps spikes of 225 if I’m in traffic. Thermostat is good as it stays cool with driving while moving but if I sit at lights too much it does heat soak until the fans kick on so I was curious if I could program them to kick in at 200 or maybe less? The car feels best at 190F or so.
@@SimplyVolvo Hey Mate, I've finally finished the swap, but the trans is making noise :(. It makes rattling noises with the clutch engaged/clutch pedal out in neutral and in-gear. The trans shifts smooth, and all gears work fine. I used a new Luk DMF clutch kit and concentric slave. Does this sound like the input shaft bearing? Are the input shaft bearings easy enough to replace? Any advice would be much appreciated. Cheers Video of sound for reference: czcams.com/video/hIqwd9OdGuc/video.html
i need to ask you simplyvolvo do i dare taking apart the top head cover to remove the cams and to replace my valve seals in my engine without the proper tool to hold the head inplace when i remove all the bolts?
What symptoms are you getting that you need to replace the valve seals? I wouldn't recommend doing this job without the proper clamping tools, if your handy you can make them but you'll also need the tools to hold and align the cams.
You could do it with a special air compressor tool that will hold the valves closed or by feeding rope into the cylinder but I think its best to remove the head and get the entire thing rebuilt. A good shop will replace all of the valve seals (make sure to buy OEM only), regrind the valves and deck it a few thou for only $200-400.
@@johno9507 cylinder 2-3 are speawing oil down the exhaust manifold and it blue smokes every single cold start i do with it and it also burns oil i've recently cleaned the pcv system to the best of my ability i've had it completely teared down the pcv system and nothing helped, also had the exhaust manifold teared down and cleaned the exhaust ports + the manifold itself but nothing i even felt the oil sipping down the exhaust valves so thats the main reason i suspect them being bad.
@@SimplyVolvo its really a shame because im a low incomer and to do so that you said would litteraly ruin me all i have to do is to replace them bad valve seals but yea i do get it that its better to do it the right way but broke life trying to keep a car running as long as possible is hard..
@@SimRacer96 I understand brother, I'm on a disability pension too that makes it hard to keep the maintenance up. I've used Matt's (SimplyVolvo) suggestion of using an adaptor to blow compressed air into the cylinder in order to replace valve seals before and it works great, and agree it best to remove the head but if your just trying to keep her going you can do the job without removing the head if you're confident of your ability. Sometimes I find it best to put a socket on top of the valve spring and give it a light tap just to brake the seal before using a valve spring tool. You may be able to rent the tooling needed as this will help keep costs down. Have you done a compression check just to double check it's not a damaged piston/cylinder?
@@HandMadeWrath The thread may help you. www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/171637-23l-engine-differences/&ved=2ahUKEwizubeph6HrAhUayTgGHS5zCT8QFjACegQIDBAB&usg=AOvVaw3A5nQB6st2eKy9_yJmslub
This car is going to be wicked..... can't wait to see the finished product
Your depth of knowledge and skilled hard work really show in this video. Congrats.
Appreciate the kind words :)
Best project on CZcams
Really clean install. Nice progress.
Thanks!
Coming along nicely Matt!
FYI when I'm doing angle torque I make a reference mark with a paint pen after initial torque.
I use digital angle torque wrenches at the shop and have had one glitch on me and lost the angle and had to start over.
Plus having the visual indication of completion is a bonus.
And yes, Matt is the G.O.A.T!!!
Looking really GOOD. I thought they stopped making 2000R rear brakes a long time ago, and is why I have P2R rears, which take a small amount of machining to work.
Man, I look so forward to seeing your videos ...
Great video and the subfram is beautiful 👌
I originally had a "professional" shop do my whe bearings, and they destroyed my two bearings. I used dry ice and didn't have to use a press.
Ha. That makes me feel better then hearing even professionals screw them up. They are a pain! I thought about pressing the hub into the bearing then the bearing into the housing but no way you could get them snap ring in after.
highly underrated channel, good job! Great attention to details, appreciate that. PS ditch the Toyota, it's to confusing for me, i hope that's your wife's car or something like that :)
That Toyota Tacoma is one of the best daily vehicles I have ever owned (so far)! Need something to tow around my T-5R and it sure as well won't be an XC90!
*clapping* Everything looks immaculate, so exciting:)
You have the same method as I do to center the rotors.
beautiful project
Thanks!
After i removed the diff-locker weight inside the rear differential, the car became unstable when cornering. You could really feel it really didnt like corners on dry tarmac. I bought a new lockrrweight and issue dissapaired.
P80 AWD.
Probably because it was locking the wheels at high speeds in the corners and making it hard to turn! I bought a proper LSD for this car... the Eaton Detroit TruTrac LSD that all the RWD guys use. I had to design custom billet adapter flanges for the axles and use 960 MKI axles.
Its Swedish Gold and Nordic Blue ;)
My two favorite colors! :) Love the bushings!! Will be sure to show plenty of footage of the poly engine mounts in the next video!
Well done talented guy🤔🏆
Thanks!
Where in god’s green earth did you get the subframe torque specs for the control arms
Great progress! One question - are you fitting a brake manifold at the end of that brake line? I’m converting flexi pipes to braided and Volvo no longer make part no. 3516569 which is the manifold that splits the pipes to left and right! Are you able to re-use the original?
Yes im using the brake manifold that came from my donor.
Hi ! I am rebulding a 2000 V70R and was wondering where did you get the rear upper control arm poly bushings ?
I’m planning for basically the same swap in my s80 using 01-02 xc70 rear suspension and viscous unit. Do you know if they make upgraded viscous units for those years? Do you happen to know if I can make the radiator fan kick in sooner than 220F? I assume they have the engine run hot for emissions but I don’t like the temps spikes of 225 if I’m in traffic. Thermostat is good as it stays cool with driving while moving but if I sit at lights too much it does heat soak until the fans kick on so I was curious if I could program them to kick in at 200 or maybe less? The car feels best at 190F or so.
This should named MAD LAD hahahaha keep at it was awesome
Matt what are you doing, a Toyota truck with Volvo plates on it?? 😋
Great to see the rear subframe finally done, nice job bud!
Come on... you know I can't own a non Volvo car without putting something Volvo on it...
🇵🇦
I'm gonna put another engine it though. Could I message you for info on my build?
Would you recommend rebuilding a m56 with fresh bearings when doing a manual swap? Cheers
I don't. They should last the life of the transmission. Usually the synchros go first.
@@SimplyVolvo Hey Mate, I've finally finished the swap, but the trans is making noise :(. It makes rattling noises with the clutch engaged/clutch pedal out in neutral and in-gear. The trans shifts smooth, and all gears work fine. I used a new Luk DMF clutch kit and concentric slave. Does this sound like the input shaft bearing? Are the input shaft bearings easy enough to replace? Any advice would be much appreciated. Cheers
Video of sound for reference: czcams.com/video/hIqwd9OdGuc/video.html
@@jeremycathcart5343 Might just be M56 gear rattle which is normal. Mines rattles when I don't have the clutch in. Google "m56 gear rattle"
i need to ask you simplyvolvo do i dare taking apart the top head cover to remove the cams and to replace my valve seals in my engine without the proper tool to hold the head inplace when i remove all the bolts?
What symptoms are you getting that you need to replace the valve seals?
I wouldn't recommend doing this job without the proper clamping tools, if your handy you can make them but you'll also need the tools to hold and align the cams.
You could do it with a special air compressor tool that will hold the valves closed or by feeding rope into the cylinder but I think its best to remove the head and get the entire thing rebuilt. A good shop will replace all of the valve seals (make sure to buy OEM only), regrind the valves and deck it a few thou for only $200-400.
@@johno9507 cylinder 2-3 are speawing oil down the exhaust manifold and it blue smokes every single cold start i do with it and it also burns oil i've recently cleaned the pcv system to the best of my ability i've had it completely teared down the pcv system and nothing helped, also had the exhaust manifold teared down and cleaned the exhaust ports + the manifold itself but nothing i even felt the oil sipping down the exhaust valves so thats the main reason i suspect them being bad.
@@SimplyVolvo its really a shame because im a low incomer and to do so that you said would litteraly ruin me all i have to do is to replace them bad valve seals but yea i do get it that its better to do it the right way but broke life trying to keep a car running as long as possible is hard..
@@SimRacer96
I understand brother, I'm on a disability pension too that makes it hard to keep the maintenance up.
I've used Matt's (SimplyVolvo) suggestion of using an adaptor to blow compressed air into the cylinder in order to replace valve seals before and it works great, and agree it best to remove the head but if your just trying to keep her going you can do the job without removing the head if you're confident of your ability. Sometimes I find it best to put a socket on top of the valve spring and give it a light tap just to brake the seal before using a valve spring tool.
You may be able to rent the tooling needed as this will help keep costs down.
Have you done a compression check just to double check it's not a damaged piston/cylinder?
I blew a rod in my s70 4 days ago I'm so sad
We all feel your pain brother, but she's gone to a better place.
Sorry to hear :(
@@johno9507 she's not going anywhere I need another engine
@@SimplyVolvo but anyways do you know what I would have to change if I swap from my B5234T3 to a B5234T9?
@@HandMadeWrath
The thread may help you.
www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/171637-23l-engine-differences/&ved=2ahUKEwizubeph6HrAhUayTgGHS5zCT8QFjACegQIDBAB&usg=AOvVaw3A5nQB6st2eKy9_yJmslub