The action scews in mine were in bad shape right out of the box. I got some new longer ones and ground them down to get as much length as possible. I also used a Nord lock washer. They are by far the best thing u can use to keep something from coming lose.
From what I’ve gathered in collecting data for SD’s, they don’t necessarily mean small groups at 100yds. They help with vertical dispersion obviously, but that really comes in to effect at distance. I know 100yd groups are a standard, but I would try shooting those Berger loads w/single digit SD’s at 300yds or even 500. And see if they close in so. Sounds silly, but I’ve shot 308’s that didn’t look impressive @ 100 and still matched up with my dope @ 600. I look forward to your follow up content. I will be getting a 112 Target Magnum soon
Hay man I been looking real hard at the Savage Elite Precision for a few days now and you Sir sold me on the 338 lapua magnum. I found a left hand model at Classic Firearms for $1849, so I pulled the trigger on that today. Anyway, thanks for all the information, you did an outstanding job on your review of the gun, keep up the good work.
Thanks! After over a year and 500+ rounds through it I'd buy it again in a heartbeat. I've shot it over a mile in competition and regularly shoot it close to that distance. Only other trouble I've had with it was with my reloads making the chamber dirty. I use a shotgun 20 GA brass brush to clean the chamber every 50-100 rounds, and make sure my brass is trimmed to length after each reload and it has given me zero problems.
@@Boot2Ass24 The 338 LM is to heavy to carry around in the field, personally the 6.5 CM is a little overrated, look at the Bergara HMR B-14, I got one in 300 Win Mag
@@Boot2Ass24 I don't understand the 6.5 hype, I know they are very fast rounds, but also all reports I can find on rifles chambered in both 6 and 6.5cm indicate they will wear your barrels faster than other rounds.
Thanks for the tip re: Berger. Very valuable to know! Have you done more development since posting this? I also had best results with the ELD 285...Only 2 powders tried; IMR 7828SSC & H100. The IMR did best, so far. I wonder if you'd get better results with the 300 Bergers, with a slower burn powder? I'm going to start those with Ramshot LRT & Magnum, and some US 869...The 869 may be too slow burn for my 24" barrel, but might be great for your 30"? With the seating-depth & powder type/charge weight combinations...seems endless testing. Good thing it's fun! But would like to settle on some good combination and start moving out to distances. Thanks for the video!
Thanks! I haven't tried the 300g Bergers again, I never could get them to shoot out of that rifle consistently. After burning through 100 of them I gave up. Sorry for the late reply I don't always get notifications for some reason when someone comments. Have you had any success with those loads you mentioned?
I'll be getting the same rifle here soon I have a buddy who is a reloading guru\builder. He's not happy until he gets 1 hole @ 100 yards he's going to give me a hand getting it dialed in. I'll keep you posted on the development and what works for me
Nice review, I'm getting into the precision game for the first time and just looking for a starter rifle that I also wont out grow to quickly. Do you think this one is worth the $500 more over Ruger Precision?
Savage comes with a 20 MOA rail, Ruger with 30 MOA. Savage has a stainless barrel, Ruger does not. The Savage does NOT come with a muzzle break- so add $150-$200 minimum for that. I've messed with the triggers on both and they are both excellent IMHO. The Ruger folds up, but to do that on the Savage you have to buy an extra $150 part, and I'm not sure that part is compatible with the MDT ACC. Ruger comes with two magazines, the Savage comes with one. These are factory rifles and I've heard of issues with both- you can read all about them on the dedicated FB groups for the RPR and Savage 338 rifles. According to users on these groups, you may experience ejector problems and stuck brass if using Hornady brass in the Savages, and bolt failures in the Ruger. Both have affordable aftermarket "enhanced" parts to remedy their respective issues, although only a very small percentage of those polled reported problems with either. From what I read both will work loose all screws if they are not secured with thread locker. Ultimately I went with the Savage because I wanted higher velocities from the longer barrel, and I wanted a stainless barrel, receiver, and nitride coated bolt to protect against rust. I also liked the MDT chassis a lot more. I'm sure I would have been happy with either.
Im a lazy mofo these days, and now i have to locktite my screws too i guess and order longer ones. Never ends never ends. How far off lands were u with the 285 eld's? I have same gun. probably be a month before i have ammo made . Sucks h1000 is out everywhere. and retumbo and reloader 26. Did u mark the high sides on bullet concentricity to shoot all bullets high side up. Your best dies will still make .002 bullet runout . Do u use all the top screws in the muzzle brake or is it not the gen 3? Do u like that chronograph? I need to buy one soon.
I'll have to get back with you on the 285's, I shot all I have. I have not started sorting by concentricity yet or marking anything, but will give that a try! No screws in the APA FB muzzle break. LabRadar is a wonderful chrony that a friend is letting me borrow. Only problem is it takes a bit to get it set up for the first time and figure out where to place it. After you get that figured out it is easy and fast to use. It does go through batteries fast, but will work with those portable phone charger packs.
The TIN coating is supposed to be a very hard tough durable finish but it looks like in your video is wearing off the bolt. Is it really wearing off that fast or is it an illusion?
Not positive but it looked like I counted 5 rds that jammed when you cycled stopping after about 3/4s inch going into chamber. Is that right because most Savage bolt guns have that problem. At least mine did and had to send it back to be corrected.
I have not had any problems feeding other than what I mentioned in the video. Since I corrected it, it has run flawlessly. I did however experience brass getting stuck in the chamber after firing, but pretty sure that was due to my reloading as I wasn't trimming the brass and ensuring to have 2 thousandths bump when sizing. Once I started doing that I haven't had any stuck in the chamber.
That's a good idea, but I didn't have enough thread due to the screws being short, I did try a thick flat washer... maybe a thin one might have worked.
Interesting. I had been looking for similar info, but all I ever see is how it can really vary based on many factors. How hot you load, letting it cool when shooting, etc for the throat erosion. 1000 is mostly on the low-end for what I've seen, although it isn't uncommon to see claims going from 600, 1000, 1500, 2500 and have seen 4000. So apparently everyone has an opinion. pfft. Assuming Murphy's Law is in play; it will be dead right at the moment you come up with the perfect load development?
All the issues I've heard about barrel life is in the 6 and 6.5 creedmore rounds. Which in most rifles are known to eat barrels faster than 308's or 300's. The plus point to these rifles is the threaded on barrel meaning when you do eventually need a barrel repair or replacement it is easier than your average rifle.
Good video, wanted to reach out to you and talk to you sometime about load data for your Lapua. I just put together a savage 112 magnum target, I figured it would interesting to compare data.
Excellent review....love that gun.
The action scews in mine were in bad shape right out of the box. I got some new longer ones and ground them down to get as much length as possible. I also used a Nord lock washer. They are by far the best thing u can use to keep something from coming lose.
Great review .... I would like to know your thoughts on the Savage 110 Ultra Light.
From what I’ve gathered in collecting data for SD’s, they don’t necessarily mean small groups at 100yds. They help with vertical dispersion obviously, but that really comes in to effect at distance. I know 100yd groups are a standard, but I would try shooting those Berger loads w/single digit SD’s at 300yds or even 500. And see if they close in so. Sounds silly, but I’ve shot 308’s that didn’t look impressive @ 100 and still matched up with my dope @ 600. I look forward to your follow up content. I will be getting a 112 Target Magnum soon
Thanks! I didn't think to try that.
Hay man I been looking real hard at the Savage Elite Precision for a few days now and you Sir sold me on the 338 lapua magnum. I found a left hand model at Classic Firearms for $1849, so I pulled the trigger on that today. Anyway, thanks for all the information, you did an outstanding job on your review of the gun, keep up the good work.
Thanks! After over a year and 500+ rounds through it I'd buy it again in a heartbeat. I've shot it over a mile in competition and regularly shoot it close to that distance. Only other trouble I've had with it was with my reloads making the chamber dirty. I use a shotgun 20 GA brass brush to clean the chamber every 50-100 rounds, and make sure my brass is trimmed to length after each reload and it has given me zero problems.
Keep wondering if I should go 338 lapua or 6.5cm for plinking, long range, hunting varmint to med/big game, SHTF, ammo availability, thoughts?
@@Boot2Ass24 The 338 LM is to heavy to carry around in the field, personally the 6.5 CM is a little overrated, look at the Bergara HMR B-14, I got one in 300 Win Mag
@@Boot2Ass24 I don't understand the 6.5 hype, I know they are very fast rounds, but also all reports I can find on rifles chambered in both 6 and 6.5cm indicate they will wear your barrels faster than other rounds.
Great video great rifle
I like savage rifle .......🔫🔫🔫🔫🔫🤜🤛
Thanks for the tip re: Berger. Very valuable to know! Have you done more development since posting this? I also had best results with the ELD 285...Only 2 powders tried; IMR 7828SSC & H100. The IMR did best, so far. I wonder if you'd get better results with the 300 Bergers, with a slower burn powder? I'm going to start those with Ramshot LRT & Magnum, and some US 869...The 869 may be too slow burn for my 24" barrel, but might be great for your 30"? With the seating-depth & powder type/charge weight combinations...seems endless testing. Good thing it's fun! But would like to settle on some good combination and start moving out to distances. Thanks for the video!
Thanks! I haven't tried the 300g Bergers again, I never could get them to shoot out of that rifle consistently. After burning through 100 of them I gave up. Sorry for the late reply I don't always get notifications for some reason when someone comments. Have you had any success with those loads you mentioned?
great videos, like a Harley it will shake it self to pieces
I'll be getting the same rifle here soon I have a buddy who is a reloading guru\builder. He's not happy until he gets 1 hole @ 100 yards he's going to give me a hand getting it dialed in. I'll keep you posted on the development and what works for me
Nice review, I'm getting into the precision game for the first time and just looking for a starter rifle that I also wont out grow to quickly. Do you think this one is worth the $500 more over Ruger Precision?
Savage comes with a 20 MOA rail, Ruger with 30 MOA. Savage has a stainless barrel, Ruger does not. The Savage does NOT come with a muzzle break- so add $150-$200 minimum for that. I've messed with the triggers on both and they are both excellent IMHO. The Ruger folds up, but to do that on the Savage you have to buy an extra $150 part, and I'm not sure that part is compatible with the MDT ACC. Ruger comes with two magazines, the Savage comes with one. These are factory rifles and I've heard of issues with both- you can read all about them on the dedicated FB groups for the RPR and Savage 338 rifles. According to users on these groups, you may experience ejector problems and stuck brass if using Hornady brass in the Savages, and bolt failures in the Ruger. Both have affordable aftermarket "enhanced" parts to remedy their respective issues, although only a very small percentage of those polled reported problems with either. From what I read both will work loose all screws if they are not secured with thread locker. Ultimately I went with the Savage because I wanted higher velocities from the longer barrel, and I wanted a stainless barrel, receiver, and nitride coated bolt to protect against rust. I also liked the MDT chassis a lot more. I'm sure I would have been happy with either.
6.5 is the only one the extraction messes up on. But they will wear out
Very good video.
Thank you very much!
Im a lazy mofo these days, and now i have to locktite my screws too i guess and order longer ones. Never ends never ends. How far off lands were u with the 285 eld's? I have same gun. probably be a month before i have ammo made . Sucks h1000 is out everywhere. and retumbo and reloader 26. Did u mark the high sides on bullet concentricity to shoot all bullets high side up. Your best dies will still make .002 bullet runout . Do u use all the top screws in the muzzle brake or is it not the gen 3? Do u like that chronograph? I need to buy one soon.
I'll have to get back with you on the 285's, I shot all I have. I have not started sorting by concentricity yet or marking anything, but will give that a try! No screws in the APA FB muzzle break. LabRadar is a wonderful chrony that a friend is letting me borrow. Only problem is it takes a bit to get it set up for the first time and figure out where to place it. After you get that figured out it is easy and fast to use. It does go through batteries fast, but will work with those portable phone charger packs.
This is really helpful review
Could you tell us barres life with 338 lapua once you reach it ?
Or maybe savage mentioned it when you bought it ?
Sure, I'm keeping a round count and will let everyone know how long it lasts.
@@kcwestoutdoorclub3232 sweet !!!!! Thxxx a lot
The TIN coating is supposed to be a very hard tough durable finish but it looks like in your video is wearing off the bolt. Is it really wearing off that fast or is it an illusion?
Not positive but it looked like I counted 5 rds that jammed when you cycled stopping after about 3/4s inch going into chamber. Is that right because most Savage bolt guns have that problem. At least mine did and had to send it back to be corrected.
I have not had any problems feeding other than what I mentioned in the video. Since I corrected it, it has run flawlessly. I did however experience brass getting stuck in the chamber after firing, but pretty sure that was due to my reloading as I wasn't trimming the brass and ensuring to have 2 thousandths bump when sizing. Once I started doing that I haven't had any stuck in the chamber.
You do need to let the surfaces of rails and screws to bed in, otherwise the loctited components will still wobble!
What is the thread pitch on the 338 Lapua Mag 30” nowhere on their site specifies this
threads are 5/8" x24
Thank you!!!
Lock washer would have worked if you had put a flat washer between it and the stock.
That's a good idea, but I didn't have enough thread due to the screws being short, I did try a thick flat washer... maybe a thin one might have worked.
I've heard reports that the barrel life is pretty well exhausted at about 1,000 rounds. Anyone else heard that?
Interesting. I had been looking for similar info, but all I ever see is how it can really vary based on many factors. How hot you load, letting it cool when shooting, etc for the throat erosion. 1000 is mostly on the low-end for what I've seen, although it isn't uncommon to see claims going from 600, 1000, 1500, 2500 and have seen 4000. So apparently everyone has an opinion. pfft. Assuming Murphy's Law is in play; it will be dead right at the moment you come up with the perfect load development?
All the issues I've heard about barrel life is in the 6 and 6.5 creedmore rounds. Which in most rifles are known to eat barrels faster than 308's or 300's. The plus point to these rifles is the threaded on barrel meaning when you do eventually need a barrel repair or replacement it is easier than your average rifle.
@@strafe501 Good to know! Thanks
Good video, wanted to reach out to you and talk to you sometime about load data for your Lapua. I just put together a savage 112 magnum target, I figured it would interesting to compare data.
Yes, lets do that. That is the reason I'm making videos is to help each other out.
why no one do this nice videos for .308 of Savage 110 Elite Precision :)
What is part number for the magazine?
I do not know... I don't see any markings on the magazine itself
@@kcwestoutdoorclub3232 what is the length of the magazine just trying to figure out if it is cip or not?