Sharpen Clippers with Hand Lapping Technique
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
- A little bit of workshop dickery to get out of a dilly of a pickle. How to sharpen oddball stuff like hair clippers? Lap them! Fine sand paper, a piece of glass and light pressure is all you need.
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you use a figure 8 because a 10 would be hard.
Haha, I'm impressed that he got it back together and it STILL worked!! lol
This Old Tony that's the only right answer. Made me laugh anyway
What did the 0 say to the 8? Nice fucking belt!
thats funny
Stud removal
I got to remember that magnet trick! So yesterday I was up in a tower with a drill working on the wind mill and my dad had the forsight to send a wet stone up with me to sharpen the bit after each hole; saved sooo much time! which was good because it was cold and windy up there. More people should know how to hand sharpen tools.
Cody'sLab sup Cody
What in tarnation are you drilling you need to sharpen the bit every time you finish a hole?
Flyingvoxel nolond A nice tight 18 year old. You know, sometimes they are so tight they dull your tool. What do YOU normally do up in the ol’ windmill? Huh??
Flyingvoxel nolond 18 year old fastener* 😉
@@DieselRamcharger wrong
You own a Senior, that's a Professional clipper. You handlap that top blade (the little one) enough times & it won't work right any more. I don't have any idea how many times that is, either. You can do it as much as you like on the bottom blade & as long as you're flat it'll work great. You can get a new blade pack but it'll cost a little bit. When looking at the blades on the clipper like youre cutting hair, the far left teeth on the two blades should be lined up & centered with each other. A straight line of space 0.050 of an inch or so from big one to the little one going left to right across the tips. Less space is a closer shave but the tips of the top can cut you real quick when you try to go in for a flat/straight line, like your sideburns or back of your neck. The three holers like yours can take alot more "bumps" without loosing their lock down postioning. They're designed to pop that one middle screw out & change out different blade styles on the fly & be perfectly lined up when you tighten that one middle screw. It only takes a few seconds. It came with a lifetime warranty just send it back & they will put it back just like you bought it...but where's the fun in that.
If the blades themselves are real loose & noisy the tension between the blades is off. The diamond plastic "finger" that the blade with the diamond cut out (top blade) sits in, is part of a spring steel. In a Bind it can be SLIGHTLY bent outward or inward to get 19-24 ounces of pressure with a handheld pressure gage. It's tricky as hell to get them to spread apart just a fraction to test it, but basically if they get hot real fast no matter how much oil = too much tension. The big plastic phillips screw on the side controls the "magnetic tuning" (the distance between the coil & the arm). Turn it clockwise until it sounds like it's just hammering away inside then back it off "20 minutes like on a clock". I think it's like technically 120° in the circle, but that will be about the most efficient & cool running that your clipper will operate. You put so much stuff out there for all of us. I'm a "machinist" now but I used to work at Wahl for like a decade.There's a secret to it that I just won't tell, but I will tell you that they have a "way" of lapping the top blade so that it isn't actually flat (those little "shadows" that curved across the inside tips on the top blade when you first took them apart showed that it was lapped correctly). They're supposed to self-sharpen, that's why it'll stop working after flat lapping them too many times but you should still get years of use out of them anyway. They are made to be used 30-40 hours a week for years by people who make a living with their "tools" of the trade. Hope this helps you. Thanks. "Keep your dick in a vice"
"Sharpening your drill bit with a die grinder" Fucking priceless, I love that shit! It worked. I won $5 bucks off that, too. LMAO
I bought a Wahl clipper for my pooch (and me, mostly me), best ZAR400 (about US$27) I've ever spent. About five years now. More than twice the price of shitty shavers, but she's easily paid her way. Glad your comment found these ears. I'll check her tuning before the next shave. Always wondered what that black screw was for. I know it's heresy, but I actually read manuals and that wasn't in there.
On a slightly related side-note; I opened an old Sansui receiver (AM/FM tuner) the other day, easy as fek. Four screws. Danger of electric shock if your brain wasn't born with you. I'll keep it short. Point is, manufacturers should tell you how things work. And allow you to open and tinker with 'em (to an acceptable degree, maybe). I mean, you bought it.
Anyways, tanks for the info
@@MisterRorschach90 you aint never lied bro
Man I'm really late. So I hand grind the top and bottom blade with my hand on some kind of a waterstone last week. That thing seemed like biting into my cheeck and neck everytime I trim my beard before I resharpened.
I used some diamond sharpener to profile the surface of all my waterstones since almost all of my waterstones curved due to uneven use when sharpening knives.
I did noticed there's some kind of weird extra angle ground on the inside tip of each of the blades. I thought it was some kind of manufacturing flaw because my dad bought chinese made clipper, quite pricey stuff for 13 yrs ago I must say.
I have this question mr. @Richard Dickerson, what is the optimal grit for final polishing those blades? And do you recomend that I deburr the edge after final polish?
Keep your Dickerson in a vice !
Excellent clipper advice.
I just wanted to learn how to sharpen my clippers and OMG, I had to gather myself multiple times from laughing so hard from the bantering. This was one heck of a skit I tell ya. Oh, and I did actually learn something from this so thanks for that.
"But you only need to give her the tip but once a year!" Best quote so far.
The figure of 8 is used because it removes the most material , it alternates the scratch pattern as you go so its not just cutting the same spot :)
Would not a circle do the same? I've read that figure 8 is best, but never figured out why.
Because its two circles one goes clockwise one goes anti clockwise which makes for even wear .
+Ashley King going in a circle would cover all directions of travel though, yeah?
Mason Heipel more randomness
Mason Heipel you would lean slightly to one side and the scratches are taken out by switching clockwise and anti clockwise , it makes more difference on a stone rather than on glass. You could maybe get away with it but "8" would win over just one way circles
Best practice is 8 for general use .
Some things are different but thats another story
Lapping in a figure eight covers all the motions so it doesn't lap crooked. A tool maker taught me that.
Tyler Davis Correct. In a circle, you'll put more pressure on one side unless you're a fucking Ninja, which we're not.
Tyler Davis yup. Suburban tool goes into lapping in one of their videos, and explains all the nuances of the process.
I concur - I've got a lapping plate - use the figure 8 so you uniformly wear the entire surface of the plate and keep it reasonably flat
Circles give you a rounded surface, back and forth wears one edge more than the rest. Figure 8 negates that do you get a flat surface.
When it comes to watching a sharpening demonstration of any tool, this particular accent always gives me hope. Y'all know your sh*t when it comes to this sort of thing.
Thanks for this video. I did this to my beard trimmer and now it cuts great. It no longer feels like a swarm of angry pixies pulling the hairs out with tweezers. Cleaned everything with soapy water and a tooth brush, rinsed, used 600 grit wet on a glass table for about 2 minutes per blade, rinsed a few times, allowed to dry, put a few drops of mineral oil. The only problem was the little spring that kept sproinging out when I was putting it back together. But after mashing it together many many times everything finally went into place by pure luck. All is well that ends well. :-)
A figure-8 is to avoid galling the metal in one single direction causing a burr from forming on one edge which prevents a good edge. Going in a circle does the same, however when you do it by hand, you're not perfect and apply pressure in a biased direction which again produces an inferior edge. Figure 8 helps minimize your human error and any metal problems. 2000+ grit sand paper is great; you can tune up cutting tools, and polish stuff to a nicer finish without fear of taking much material off the surface.
Figure 8, also rotating the workpiece 1/4 turn at even intervals, or better yet, 20 figure 8’s at each position of the clock. I’ve used this method for years in industry with shims.
The sharpening tutorial is super helpful, and I LOVE your science lessons! I learn something new every time I watch one of your videos. Keep up the good work.
I usually do the main strokes of the hair cut on my own and have the wife clean up the neck area
This is fantastic! I've had the same clippers for a while now, and now I know how to sharpen them! Thanks AvE!
If you were to get the glass wet before putting the paper down, the paper will stick down flat and not go anywhere, unless you really go to town on it or go along an edge.
Edit: the Figure 8 pattern randomizes/evens out the wear provided you hold the piece with even pressure.
Was looking for one of these videos, and then find this... Of COURSE there's an AvE video about something related to something else. Apparently this was also the greatest channel on CZcams five years ago as well.
I always try to use a figure eight motion when lapping. It prevents rocking. Using a back and forward motion will result in a part with rounded corners/edges. If you only sand in one direction with firm pressure, it is less of a problem.
You also need to tape the sandpaper down, as the curled edges will produce the same effect as rocking and the edges of the part won't be flat.
Thanks for the knowledge.
kaiok1777 I thought you said fapping...
That's some deep insight. This place blows mind and I don't even do any of this stuff! (Yet)
How about some plate glass and grinding compound?
Cool. German Sandpaper. I grew up near the Klingspor Factory and used to work there during school holidays. Thirty years ago...
Every single video on your channel is a treat, btw.
You mean she only ALLOWS you to give her the tip but once a year...
He asked for it.
you know whyat you are getting into with marriage
Or, more accurately, not getting into.
Andy Cormack
watching you loose your stroke on the figure 8 made me feel more normal. Is that normal?
combination of water sandpaper and piece of glass much better than sharpening stones. well done.
thanks for the advice, im tired of my pubes burning these things out...
Tony Fleetwood lol too true
mr42ndstblvd personally I take my dullest razor, throw it in the trash and pull every single hair out by hand
I just spritz a little sulfuric acid on mine...presto changeo! Protip: tuck
+Hot Dogs I tried veet (once, lol). in comparison, it makes sulfuric acid look like lip balm.
my naive usage of veet, caused my ballbag and appendage (little Ted) to end up with skin thinner than that of an embryo......don't use veet.
lol @ little ted
Hey if you want your blades even sharper... to remove the "burr" on the back side of where you lapped use a wire brush lightly pulling it through the teeth which will fold back over the almost microscopic burr that is developed by sharpening blades then rinse and repeat with progressively less passes each time
Has no one offered this guy voice over work yet ?
Brian Green like a nature documentary. LOL
A GPS voice would be great! "Turn left at the doobly doo", "Your current route is skookum as frig"
Doesn't this jalopy have any chooch to it!
Brian Green I know, right? He could be the Canadian Nick Offerman.
@@masonmcdonald2566 oh hell yes!
After years of being disappointed with store bought clippers, I bought the Andis Master. Love it. When you glide it through your hair like it's nothing, feels good man. And it's quiet. People say it's heavy and gets hot after a while. Maybe that matters if you're an actual barber, but not when you're just cutting yourself.
Back in my day, if you want something sharpened you hung out the car door doing 40 (km/h or mph) and held the thing to the concrete kerbing for a fine sharp finish. Also a good way to open cans. And if you were lucky your Dad would let you wear a seat-belt while doing it and pull you back inside the car.
And then we wonder why women live longer than men. lol
children get raised by their mother, and survive their father
To be absolutely honest. I don't understand half of the things you say, but your videos are still entertaining!
The figure eight is the greatest shape nature ever intended.
Come to think of it, even boobs form a figure 8!
It's two times four
Back in the day (late 90's- early 00's) we used to do this to CPUs and the heatsink to get the surfaces to mirror finish so they would mate together so perfectly you almost didn't need to use any heatsink grease. Heatsink grease doesn't have any magical properties really, it's main purpose is to replace any air in gaps between the CPU and the heatsink so it doesn't act as a thermal insulator. My brother who does a lot of woodworking and got into using old hand tools has a special 1"+ thick piece of glass that's been somehow planed off so it is perfectly flat for lapping/sharpening draw planes and I would do it on that. These days the CPUs and heatsinks are already pre-lapped so you don't gain as much but the difference back then would gain you several percent in CPU speed when overclocking. You can also gain up to 10% efficiency in a heatsink by spraying it with flat black paint (except the mating surface) which is a well know trick in the audio amplifier world so I never figured out why no manufacturer has really applied that to CPU heatsinks. To understand how it works Google "Black Body Radiation"
hello AVE! i know you are reading this!
pls make a video about your shop, like a walkaround! that would be a great video i think.
i have watched all your videos like 62334589 times and is a big fan and supporter.
from the cold north, birthplace of dynamite and the nut-fucker, sweden!
best regards Emil.
AvE shhh. Just let it happend.
You, my friend, are the eccentric, knowledgeable, funny uncle every kid should have growing up!
Looking for a reasonable flat, stable surface? Go down to your local shop what installs granite counter tops and ask for a broken scrap. I have a nice 2' X 2' X 1" square free of charge.
I'm glad I'm not the only one that gets the willies when I scrape a nail on something like sandpaper, lol
If you don't have a spare piece of glass, wait until the Mrs isn't home and use the old wedding photo in the frame.
She'll never notice, nobody looks at those
But then the particle-laden water will seep under the edge of the frame and soak into the edges of the picture. For that "antique" look.
Not sure about human clippers, but on sheep clippers the rule I've been taught is that the lower blade (the static one) lasts about 5x longer than the upper, moving one before you need to sharpen it.
The nail catch made my teeth hurt!!
Don't imagine sanding your teeth then
Use a file, works better.
Amos Crabtree
whenever the thought of fingernails on chalkboards, or fine grit sandpaper, comes to mind.....I put that thought out right away by imagining toenails on that same chalkboard.
Oh hey thanks that helps buddy.
same here only I don't have real teeth
Yas. Not only did I find an easy way to harpen my hair clipper but you were presenting. Love your work.
I remember being taught that figure-8 pattern in the Navy, while working in the Valve Shop on board a Destroyer Tender. We used it to finish the seats on High Pressure steam valves just like you did on a sheet of glass. Sandpaper (600 grit, 1000 grit and 2000 grit emery paper with water) Finish up was lapping with rubbing compound on oilskin paper on the glass to get a mirror smooth finish. Do you have a way to sharpen clippers like fingernail clippers with that odd curve they have?
Wooden dowel wrapped with sandpaper.
Well if you go in a straight motion your going rip a hole in the sandpaper 90% of the time. figure 8 gets the burs off both sides of the blade. your not sharpening the tip of the cutters but rather the sides of the triangle. if that makes any sense?
Gary Miller well I do know that by definition a shear only needs good tight right angles to work. But I never tried hair clippers before. I have however back lapped a few mowers in my day and it will keep them in reasonable condition. well until the relief is lost.
I used 800 grit cloth (not paper!) and bend it (with my fingers) to ~match the form. It still fucked the edges up a bit but 3/4 in the middle are now very good, unlike all the ones you can buy... they all seem to be very crapy, most blades dont even match up so the nail gets bend instead of cut. Horrible. Fixed it that way and just sanded it down to a perfect fit. Gave it a few strokes parallel to the edges to remove burs etc.
Yessir! Did the same. I do an X pattern.. Forwards and backwards, then side to side when you develop a sanded grain finish.
figure eight is good for cross cutting your previous cut increasing material removal reducing work time
Holy schmoly. This comes at the right time. My beard was getting pluckered out instead of cut this week and I was swearing so loud the kid came to check if I was ok.
Good advice sir!
Isn't a wife in total more expensive than going to the barbers?
Wolfgang Stelzhammer lol
Sometimes it's not the having but the loosing of wife that's so expensive.
nah,
because when you don't have a wife you end up 'dating' or pursuing temporary flings. Such activities are magnitudes more expensive than a wife.
Nah, I already traded for her 3 fine cows and a goat.
@@dfpguitar sounds like someone without a wife.
Good stuff! The old timers taught me how to scrape and flake ways on machinery many moons ago. Very tedious process but that was how they wanted it done. No shortcuts!
When sharpening clippers. It is not flat across there is a little pitch so that the tips of the blades are tighter together. Your method may work fine, but I have always used a special blade hone that I have. I just don't know how important that angle is.
it is rare for me to laugh at a video, i make a good troll but you made me laugh, a nice memory of youtube!
+AvE i like videos like this from you....never seen this done on clipers....thumbs up.
Hey I already did this to my $20 clippers that's at least 15 years old. Thanks for the reminder.
If the glass isnt flat enough for you, you can borrow my sister.
deal!
I call next on that guy's sister.
Fbi! Open up!
really enjoyed your vid. oh yeah the figure 8 motion is to even out the pressure to avoid grinding the face to an angle. learnt that doing jewelry course. also have the same appreciation of the personal tool. "it might be a great one but its mine and i know what it does". Have a great day love to the Mrs.
I cut my hairs myself for ten years saved thousands of dollars in a jar like i been spending 20 bucks a haircut now i am paying for a trip to disney with my niece and nephew all because i clipped my own hair
How was the trip
Or head gasket delete on any two stroke what for the extra compression.
Or pretty much gasket delete on anything, just lap the two surfaces and a thin coat of oil will seal it. Depends on the application but can be handy.
That's interesting. No more blown head gasket?
Idunno, on a two stroke its an air leak if you have a leaky gasket, my solution to this was to lap the head and the jug provided piston interference wasn't a problem. If I did it right the bike never had air leaks ever again as long as I owned it. Pretty common thing for moped head gasket delete but I've never applied it to anything else.
***** Just as I thought it has to be a tiny area to so you could do it flat by hand.
you also have to insure the surface you're lapping on is truly "flat". Myself, i'll still use a gasket. If you really want that compression boost, just have the head/jug milled down. Any decent machine shop can do it.
This is awesome, I was about to buy a new pair because the replacement blades were actually more expensive, and who the eff knows how to sharpen these things in the city
You need to do a BOLTOR on your clippers!!!!
I do my own hair, too. I got a good set of electric clippers a while back. It saved a lot of money.
Have done this MANY times on computer heatsinks to get maximum heat transfer.
Which has been proven to do nothing. Lapping a heatsink is a complete waste of time.
except when it does do something.
when I first began, in the golden orb days (you may have to look that up)
I got a 10 degree C drop from from lapping.
it may have been a one off terrible finish on that one heatsink, but it happened.
I've managed similar results on stock Zeon heatsinks (which also tend to be terrible)
after market heatsinks tend to be a hell of a lot better, generally, in my experience.
I haven't bothers for years now, as I no longer overclock, as my I7 is stupidly powerful still, even though it's 6 years old.
In the same boat.
Back in the day when manufactures did not do it at factory.
If the heatsink is anodised where it sits on the heat source, removing the anodising will improve performance - Al can be about 200 times more thermally conductive than Al2O3 anodising. That effect still won't give you a anything like a 10 degree change in the CPU temperature though (Napkin calc says for 10W going through a 1 cm^2 cross section 10 microns thick the temperature drop in Al (k=200 W/cmK) is 0.005 degC while it's 1 degC in anodising (k=1 W/mK).
Flatter surfaces and a thinner, more conductive thermal compound are more important here. Anodising does improve radiation heat transfer from the heatsink fins to the surroundings and protect against corrosion though, which is why it's there.
for the past 5 years, I've been cutting my own hair and beard with a cheap wahl. I paid about $30 for it. And for the past year, I've been meaning to buy a new one, since it hurts like hell and cuts about 1 hair every five pass. So today I bought some sheets of 600 grain sandpaper. I couldn't find that magnetic tool. I'll try your method.
Thank you so much for this video.
I've been sharpening knives like this for years, way cheaper and more reliable than an expensive stone.
Nick Moore Stones are cheaper than abrasive paper.
I dont have sharpening stones for my knives but recently started sharpening knives this way. I've been using an old leather belt after what for taking the last bur off and for polishing them a bit. Works excellent. Good idea to use on the old clippers as well.
Figure 8 because....cross hatch pattern.
You get more done than going back and forth in one direction.
I have to say that after watching this vid I tried this on a new set of clippers that I had recently bought.
I did both sides and just gave myself a haircut and the difference was amazing.Clippers cut like butter instead of choppy anemic crap.
Thanks. I enjoy your videos and my wife thinks you have Tourette's. Keep pumping out the vids.
2:46
I know that feeling lol
Right on time as I just got back from the barber who fixed my attempt on doing the job myself earlier on :D I somehow felt like experimenting that day and cutting my own hair seemed like a good idea. This however was after I asked my GF to help me with it and she wasn't even as half confident about it as I was so I had to try it.
what if you use lapping compound and just turn it on? I have a Wahl clipper I've been using for 10 years. $45 from Walmart.
wilson solt wouldn't stay square and true, it's only about 5-15 minutes doing it by hand.
yeah, but we talk about fixing a clipper
1:45-210
The glass is the important part it makes sure you're lapping perfectly flat.
Just throwing rouge into the moving blades isn't going to work.
If you don't have a spare piece of glass counter tops will work just use fine to mega fine sandpaper and it'll work great.
I hone and lap on a cut up piece of cereal box, works excellent; I use a mix of nano fine pumice and diatomaceous earth.
Makes my chisels razor sharp after only 5-10 minutes.
I love the magnet trick. Commentary, awesome as always. I just looked up how to sharpen clipper blades cause wifie's are dull now and the horse is only a 1/4 clipped. And judging from her height and hair coat she's at least half wooly mammoth.
i dont have enough hair to go to the hairdressers! lol!!
so i do it myself!
Bought a Philips one roughly 15 years ago. Still works like a charm.
15 years of saved money. To hell with barbers.
this is because we saw a bit of your beard isn't it, now you have to change your whole look
finally someone gets it, !!! thank you for putting this out!, an even better trick is to take two pieces of glass and glue and glue that piece of paper down, silicon carbide paper it will last damn long :), the rough on the edges creates serrations that will grab the hair so it cant slide back up out the grooves, scissors if you are trying to shear leather works this way too, and metal shears :)
OK,,, SILLY ME,,, You lapped one blade,,,, why not both????
AvE oops my bad,,,
good work,,, I always enjoy your vids.. keep up the good work. ..
and tanx...
What about ceramic inserts would the particle in the wet paper be hard enough for ceramic?....i imagine it would just wear out more?
Rekt!
The wet n dry paper is coated with aluminium oxide, which is not anywhere near as hard as that ceramic malarkey. So, no.
But if you have a medium grit diamond lap file or some such, that would prolly do the job.
jbbolts
If you're trying to lap ceramic, then you need diamond paste.
On eBay you can find an assortment of sizes of grit. I use them to sharpen ceramic blades. It is the only way (.) Or if there is another way, I don't know about it.
Klingspor Sandpaper from Germany! The Company comes from our region and I just love their products.
Last time I came this early she left me.
Tool sentimentality: I have a hammer that I bought from the bargain bin at the lumber yard the first year I was married. I have bought probably a dozen other cheapie hammers in the 30 years since, and they've pretty well all gone walkabout. That first crappy hammer, however, is still with me, and when I come across it I smile a little bit, 'cuz it's like an old friend.
My wife cuts my hair with electric clippers she bought in Taiwan in the 1980s.
***** That is the number blade she uses for the top.
I watched this when I came out a few years ago and just used the technique to sharpen the clippers I use to shave my dog.
Even I cringed at that nail scrape.
Ive been using a dull clipper n its been pulling my beards n body hair which hurts a lot and since you cant go to the barbershop to shave the thick undergrowth on your body ive been braving the pain.
Thank a lot uncle (D) ave
can you do the same thing with pocket knives?
***** i was hoping to sharpen the knife i have rather than replacing with a rock
i think he meant a whetstone hahaha
If it's a chisel grind yes, otherwise I would use a stone...
i was an service engineer for fiberglass connections in an internet excange. and when i had to connect a new connector to a fiber, i was also told that figure 8 sanding is the best method. when i asked why , they answered me that sanding figures 8 wil cover the entire surface without missing any spot. if it's done the correct way wou wil find no scratches on the surface. it's the perfect way of sanding a fully flat surface.
seems like ave learnt from clickspring :P
i don't think it's that simple. the world is not just youtube.
also - if he learned from chris, he would have build his own clippers from scratch.
thank you for posting this I have been sitting on my old buzzers for years now I know how to sharpen them.
Wouldn't you have all the iron dust stuck to your magnet now?
He's wet sanding so most if not all of the metal is going to end up in the water.
dunno. That looked like a nickle-plated neodymium magnet. I'm gonna guess that any electrostatic buildup, especially in water, is nowhere near the order of magnitude of the force the magnet is applying.
*However*, the smaller the particle size, the less proportional attractive force there is, so you really only get an attractive force when you get an aggregate of particles.
I've got a 4"diameter, 3" thick beast of a neodymium magnet and some of those little 3/16" spheres, and the only force you feel until you get really close is torque trying to align the small sphere's field with the local field.
The metal shavings are just to tiny for the magnet.
finally just got round to trying this on my ageing wahl clippers. They's chooching better than when they were new! thanks ave
I just grow it out, pull it into a ponytail, and just chop 6in off it every 6mo or so
nice set of wahl trimmers. I'm going to have to give the what for to my blades too. thanks for the how to!
Figure of 8 is the best technique as when a flat surface is on the sandpaper, the edge which you are moving towards gets the heaviest cut. Back and forth with make the bottom become "U" shaped as only the forward and aft edges with get hit hardest by the paper. Circles means the corners get hit hardest and figure of 8 is the best of both worlds! Also, +1 for catching your nail on the paper, almost as bad as stubbing a toe.
I've got some Wahl clippers that got dull. It was hard, but I finally found a local place in Los Angeles that would sharpen them for 15 US bucks. Didn't realize I coulda just lapped them in myself. Next time, I'll know better. Thanks, Dude.
I do the same thing with a good size diamond ez-lap. Works every time. Now if I could only train the missus how to trim my neck I'd really be in business!
I've heard tell you can get better results if you pre-soak those wet/dry sheets overnight before using them, when they're dry the stiffness of the paper can cause it to not lay as flat on your surface.
This is what I did when I rebuilt my old funcar's engine. All mating surfaces lapped on glass with wet/dry paper, up to 2000 grit for a mirror finish, and the proper gaskets of course. Not a single leak.
figure 8 is correct, this is what we were taught in the 90's by at&t technicians when manually lapping fibre cable ends. for ze huuman hand it is a natural way to keep the pressure nicely distributed we were told.
You are very funny amusing and quick witted. I enjoyed your banter and instructions were clear as well as unintimidating..thank u.✌
orbital sanders (used a shitton for boat hull finishing) use a similar pattern, makes it more consistent and is less likely to overgrind AS QUICKLY. if ya don't got one, they're a good tool.
Your multilingual improvised verbages know no boundaries...for me, as I am sure many others, they enlighten & entertain. You are a renaissance man with a cage full of rats for an audience....GOOD SHOW!
+AvE LOL. I got me some sympathetic goosebumps all over my body when you hit that nail. Nails on a chalkboard have nothing on nails on sandpaper.
Fiber optic connectors are polished the same way. The figure eight to give the most/easiest random scratch pattern. Lapping films with git down to 0.3 microns are used.
I agree about the sentimental value , i have an old German clippers that is working perfectly till this day , it's really worth keeping and fixing and also agree about the the haircuts price , like i need 2 haircuts a week and 4 beard trims , i dunno about other places but that's a whole amount of money here in Syria
I got an excellent Andis clipper for my hair and beard equipped with some fancy ceramic clipper blades and it has expensive as well as inexpensive replacement blades, even off-brand ones. I can say I'm never going back to the cheap stuff, although I do take better care of this one than anything before. I even got proper clipping oil to clean and lubricate the thing with after each use. That said, I haven't had to sharpen or replace the original blade I got for it yet, after a few years of use; still as sharp as new, although I think the use case for the blade I got is to trim dogs professionally, 8 hours a day, every day.
My pops was a machinist (retired) for over 40 years, and figur 8 is the way to go according to him. I like the lubricant as it prevents all those partickletits from getting in the air. If you want a water-based lube use some astroglide. :)
I sharpened an antique machete about a year ago. Just about cut the pad of my finger off, but it makes pretty home defense decor.
Reminds me that I need to lap the cutting blade in my sausage grinder before I make pork sausage tomorrow! Thanks!
Hey AvE, long time fan and fellow Canuckistanian! The big oil slick just east of ya to be exact! Home of the dinosaur squeezins'!! Just wanted to say thanks for the movies man!! Hell of a job, not that ya need my approval but what the hell right? Ya make us Canhoovians proud what for doing things the hard way, the right way! Cheers!
This worked great! I knew myA5 clipper blades needed sharpening but it was a pain in ass to send them to Oster and the local knife guy wouldn't do it. Poor dog, the blades were so dull , I was removing hair by the friction method. Luckily , he did not combust. Anyway, I used my waterstones and the dog looks great. Almost like I knew what I was doing.
You do a figure 8 to help keep the grind flat. If you do straightlines you tend to accidentally rock the part creating a rocking chair leg surface. Circles get rounded. Had to learn this when polishing fiber optic ends on old school connections.