How to Set Posts for a Pole Barn - Shop Build Part 5b
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- čas přidán 28. 08. 2024
- In this video I describe how I set posts for a pole barn or post frame building. For the foundation I use a 12 inch pre-cast concrete post footer (cookie) and set the post on top of that. I attached an uplift cleat to the post before we set it in the hole. The post gets back filled with the spoils from augering the hole. I do not fill the hole with concrete. The post is set back from the marker string 1 1/2". This allows for a 2x4 purlin to match the outside dimensions of the building. Keep the post plumb as you backfill and tamp down the fill as you go.
Sorry for the over exposure on the video. I had the camera settings wrong, but the info was still worth posting I think.
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As far as concrete eating away that copper in the post, the truth is ACQ lumber has not been out long enough for anyone to know what its going to do or how long it will last. Most posts rot off about 6 inches from ground level due to microbials, not moisture. I just replaced 4 posts that were rotted off in a guys pole barn, and sure enough the 6 inches below ground were rotted away, but below that it was like new lumber. Even though it was 30 years old and constantly soaked with water. That was NOT ACQ lumber though which takes me back to what I said earlier. Great video though
Hope anyone planning to erect a pole building watches this video first, as your presentation is absolutely the correct way a post should be placed.
If you don't add some gravel on top of the concrete to separate the concrete from the end grain of the pole I would at least coat the bottom with asphaltic foundation coating. A 12" pad may be alright for non snow areas but I would check the actual loads (roof live and dead loads and wall load) with the allowable soil bearing pressure to see what you actually need.
this is the best presentation i have seen thanks
Thank you!
Michigan.
The hole depth and diameter depend on barn height and the region barn will be built in, the footing or cookie can also very in size.
I am currently building a
50’ X 100’ X 16’ and the hole depth is 63” the footing is 30” X 30” X 15” post is required to be in the ground 48” inches, overall depth is 63” to accommodate the footing and allow the post to be 48” below grade.
Our auger was 48” in diameter. With an extension on a skid steer.
Footing forms 30” X 30” had to be made because good’ol Michigan sand just kept caving in.
Cross member at the base of post should be pressure treated and
2” X 6” X 12” or greater. Put them on two side adjacent one another to prevent heave.
One can pour concrete into the hole to create a cookie using a laser level to create a constant depth. Then with the top of the concrete all the same height or depth depending on how you look at it your posts can all be the same length.
Wow you make that look simple that auger sure comes into play Big Time. I can remember when we had to dig each hole with the post hole digger or the clamshell digger. Great job guys looking awesome!
I learned to use the clamshell digger at a young age too. 😀 I was lucky enough to be able to borrow this 3-point auger for the tractor. It made this job so much easier. I can't wait to get this shop finished so I can get back into woodworking again. Thanks for watching.
I used a power-vac to vaccum out the soil at the bottom of each hole. The soil has to be dry & should be loosened prior attempting to vaccum it... easy peasy.
@@CountryFamily can u build on for me in minnesota?
nice farmall!
Im very surprised the building inspector thinks a couple of 8 gauge screws are going to stop the pole
from pulling out of the ground in a good wind.....unless there is no wind where you are.....
The deeper the hole the more grabbing power on the post
@@richardcollejr.5121 the hole is only 900mm deep after the cookie, and its in very sandy soil which is prone to wash away and has no
strength compared to clay .......in NZ poles would be 1200 -1500 deep .....
@@kermets when you have sandy soil I found you dig deeper and put a bag of multicreate (dry) then set your cookie on top. The crete will harden with the sandy soil and help stop washout. I've always tried to put the post 6' in ground
What does "below the frost line" mean? Where exactly is the frost line?
Good video, right to the point. I'm going to give it a try, might be 6 of one or 1/2 dozen of the other, but I was told you put the string an inch and a half in, I see you use an inch-and-a-half shim. Is there a pro or con either way
Sorry late to the party, where did you get those concrete cookies ? I will be building a barndominimum in South Texas in sandy soil, had this EXACT thing in mind, YOU are the first one I have seen use this idea. GREAT MINDS THINK ALIKE ! Have you ever heard of "post protectors "? It is a thick plastic sleeve that encases the portion of post that goes inground to keep moisture and cement off the wood. Any info you can share on those cookies would be appreciated.
I got them from Carter Lumber, my local lumber yard that supplied the posts and framing lumber. I believe the big box stores like Home Depot and Menard's have them too. You could also make your own by mixing up some bags and pouring it in a five gallon bucket. It may take some thought on how to get rod in there to hook a rod onto to lower them in the hole.
I have seen those post protectors and in a wet area or somewhere that doesn't drain well I think they would be worth the investment. I'm on top of a sand hill and my slope is really good so I opted not to use them. I've also seen tar paper wrapped around the post where the concrete will be touching and I meant to do that but forgot. You know how it goes when you're the architect, the project manager, material orderer, the carpenter and the laborer all at the same time stuff gets missed. 😄
Hey thanks for watching and good luck with your project.
You can lower them in with a thin strap used for tying things on a flatbed. Easy to pull out compared to a rope. No hole needed. Hope it helps
How long did you let your post settle before moving on?
Wouldn't you have to take in account the height of the cookie too?
Very nice job..I like the cookies did you make those in 5 gal bucket? How much create per cookie? Thank you..I want to do the same thing..very nice building methed..well done sir
Thanks for the comment Bobcat. I bought the cookies from my lumberyard. They have a hole with a rod on the top to allow you to lower them into the hole easier. I did make some in a bucket for a different project and if I remember correctly one bag of redimix makes two cookies, but I'm not sure on that. Good luck with your project.
@@CountryFamily
Thank you..I will look into them ..
I noticed this video was posted a couple of months ago, were you ever able to complete the building?
It's framed up and the roof is on. I'm putting the foam boards and PEX tubing down on the floor now to get ready for concrete in the next week or so. I've got a lot of footage to edit and will be putting out new videos later this fall and into the winter. Thanks for watching!
Look forward to seeing them. :)
You put the cookie in so the post won't sink right? But won't the cookie sink too?
Yes, the cookie has a surface area of more than 5 times that of the post itself so it can support 5 times the weight as the post directly on the soil without sinking in.
Similar to how an 8" block wall is laid on a 16" or 24" wide footing.
In some soils it may require a larger cookie to hold the same weight.
Kind of a rambling answer, hope it makes sense.
You don't make sure the other side of the post is level?
What happens if you hit rock 2’ down ?
Get out the TNT
Who you live in an ancient beach with all the sandy soil!!!
Yeah we're up on a high bank of the river so it's all sandy around here.
I live in Kalkaska and I was told I need 18” holes for a 30 x 40 pole barn
We both fall under the Michigan Residential Code. Nowhere in the code book could I find any guidance on the size of the cookie. I submitted my plans to the township and they ok'd it.
I don't think the overall size of the building is the main factor. I believe things like the height and roofing and siding materials that affect the weight of the building along with even the soil type would determine the foundation. So to err on the side of caution, a bigger diameter cookie surely doesn't hurt anything. Thanks for the comment Ken.
Country Family Homestead . Thanks for the response. I really liked your video and hope I can be as successful getting mine built
im in otsego I built a 40x64 the building inspector made me do 36" footers
What treatment are them posts? Here in Virginia where i live the frost line is 48 inches makes it pretty aggravating lol
The are pressure treated rated for "ground contact". I think they're AC2 brand of treatment. It's only 42" here in Michigan and that's to the bottom of the hole from finished grade.
@@CountryFamily crazy the difference in frost depth. Do you have any concerns with that treatment rating? Ive been looking at UC4B posts or CCA that are foundation grade permanent wood structural posts. The price makes me wonder it a "metal carport garage " would be better atop an "Alaskan slab"
I'm not sure on the type of treatment, but it's pretty much standard posts around here. My father-in-law's barn is built the same way about 30 years ago and there is no sign of rot. It helps that it's pretty sandy and the grade slopes away really well too.
@@CountryFamily definitely good draining soil helps, here we have clay that retains moisture pretty bad that was kinda my thinking for my posts... either way its still a dang pile of money lol!
@@CountryFamily hey buddy! just thought I'd holler back at you, I finally built a garage, I went with a metal carport garage on a monolithic slab and turned down footers. hope yall are doin good
Use screw in anchors. No need to dig. These also let you use shorter poles or have a taller building. Another is you can use non treated posts.
Never heard of screw in anchors. More information please
here in michigan the purpose of the deep hole is to prevent frost heave which an anchor wont do.
Im building a 18'×18' pole barn soon. Any tips?
Most important is to pre-planning and careful layout. Be picky about level and square and the rest will come easier. Also if you are considering an expansion in the future (like a lean-to or addition) plan for that now too to make it easier in the future. Good luck with your project and thanks for watching.
Are you using 4x6 posts?
Yes, 4x6