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Lawn Tractor Clicks But Won't Start! Easy Fix!
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- čas přidán 16. 06. 2021
- Lawn Tractor Clicks But Won't Start! Easy Fix!
Does your lawn tractor only click when you go to start it? Maybe you hear nothing at all when you turn the key but it ran good when you last used it?
In this video I show you how easy it is to fix this problem yourself at home!
Don’t forget to click the 🔔 to turn on Video Notifications for more money saving videos and tips, featuring all the brands like Stihl, Husky, Husqvarna, Honda, Echo, Kohler, Tecumseh, Dolmar, Makita, Poulan, Ariens, Powermore, Briggs and Stratton, Murray, John Deere, Craftsman, MTD, AYP, etc.
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Watch my video on how to fix a "hard to start" lawn tractor here;
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Easy to follow and thorough step by step tutorials do it yourself (DIY) to help you with your broken lawn and garden equipment including snowblowers.
I do my best to teach you how to easily diagnose problems the fastest, quickest and most efficient way with real repairs beyond just replacing a spark plug. These tips are for both the homeowner and shop owner.
Whether it be a handheld, two stroke, two cycle engine like a chainsaw, weed eater, weed wacker, string trimmer, grass trimmer, line trimmer, hedge trimmer, strimmer, brush cutter, leaf blower, or four stroke, four cycle units like a lawnmower, wood splitter, lawn tractor, snowblower, pressure washer, generator or a ride on mower that needs parts installed or replaced, I’m your go-to guy.
My favorite brands of spark plugs are NGK and Champion and are the ones I recommend.
I’ve been a small engine mechanic for many decades and also run my own repair shop so my videos are loaded with tips and tricks that I have learned and want to share with you. You will also find many tool and product reviews from top brands on my channel as well.
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Due to factors beyond the control of DONYBOY73 “The Small Engine Doctor”, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. DONYBOY73 “The Small Engine Doctor” assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. DONYBOY73 “The Small Engine Doctor” recommends safe practices when working with power tools, hand tools, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of DONYBOY73 “The Small Engine Doctor”, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not DONYBOY73 “The Small Engine Doctor".
#donyboy73 #smallengine #lawntractor
Watch my video on how to fix a "hard to start" lawn tractor here;
czcams.com/video/T1anxdNWf5Y/video.html
Watch my video on how to remove a seized lawn tractor wheel here;
czcams.com/video/85bcnr5JEbk/video.html
I have been watching this channel from the beginning. The best thing I like about it, you don’t waste time, get to the point an no time spent being funny. Great info found here.
Make sure you remove and clean your Ground Connection of the Negative Cable to the Tractor Frame. This applies to all Batteries.
Thank you. Nice clear explanation with no hype, promotion, dark glasses, shaky camera or any assumption that we know already. Refreshing and informative. Big thumbs up.
Thank you! I thought my battery cables were fine until I cleaned them and saw that they were not silver but copper! I put it all back together making sure the connections were absolutely tight and bingo, no more clicking, it stared right up! Thanks again for taking the time to help us.
When I'm done with my tractors in the fall I take the batteries out of the tractors and put them on battery tenders. I've had one last 11 years and the other is at 7 years and still working fine. Along with cleaning the battery terminals. Especially the positive ones.
Yes, that has happened to me in the Spring when the battery gets weaker, usually an initial battery jump and its good for the cutting season... But, when you have a bad battery you either jump start it before every use, or get tired of that routine and finally buy a replacement battery. Thank you for your vids, we learn a lot. I would like to see you show us the "whole electrical system" on a say Craftsman LT2000 (or similar) that includes all the safety switches for the purpose of troubleshooting. That shouldn't be a problem to show with erasing markers and a white board. It would be very very interesting to view friend. That would be a good reference to post in one's garage. Making prints of it and selling them would be a good idea, a reference for some people to buy. Simplify!
Just want to say thank you & may God bless you Always!!! Keep up the good work.
Just followed your instructions; mower is up and running. Thank you for making this video.
Yeh this is problem is so common. I've had two in this week with this issue. Nice vid and very good info👍
When this happens, I use an automatic desulfator 12v battery regenerator and most of the times, the problem is solved.
Great video. Thanks
good idea
All great tips and recommendations to keep your lawn tractor's electrical system working properly. Thanks Don, and have a great up-coming weekend.
Thanks 👍
That is a great tip and I have to buy a battery for one mower and check the battery on another one to see if is dead also. Out of three mowers I only have one which will run and I need all of them going since it is now Summer and the grass is steadily growing here in Arkansas. Thanks for sharing this tip and it is helpful for others like myself with mowers to mow our lawns and sometimes other peoples lawns also.
Thank you for the informative video. My Zero turn was doing exactly what you showed and thankfully it was just the battery. You saved me about $200 and time I would have lost not mowing, taking it the shop, and time it would have taken shop to look at then repair it!
It's also a good idea to keep the battery on a trickle or maintenance charger throughout the winter. If a battery has a low state of charge the electrolyte is more likely to freeze and this could ruin the battery. Also prolonged low state of charge will lead to sulfation which saps capacity and shortens battery life. You have to use all the tips and tricks available to get the most life out of your battery.
Also, that trickle charger you use should be a good quality one. I used a cheap one once and it wound up ruining the battery by failing and slowly discharging the battery. I like the Bosch Smart Charge but maybe it's no longer available. Lots of good ones out there.
That NOCO Genius 3500 is a great little charger.
On batteries that have sat and test as bad, I put that G3500 on "Repair" right off the bat. (The directions say charge fully first, but it works better if you don't. The newer ones limit repair time to 4 hours.) It may take a few days but it has the ability to bring back batteries that I used to give up on and bring them up to 100% health.
It can take a good while (9 days on one Marine starting battery I had) and not all batteries can be revived. I think I'm batting about .750 on the battery revivals with the G3500.
Thanks for posting this video. I have this problem on a Poulan Pro but it's not the battery, or the solenoid, or the starter. I'm about to go get elbow deep in the thing and figure out which switch, hidden connection, or wire is at fault. Take care.
Every fall i would bring the battery in for the winter and put it on a trickle charger once a month. Would last for over 5 years.
Love your videos. I went to Canadian tire had them check the battery and bought a new one. Now when try and start it, I get inconsistent results...it will either try and turn and then stop, then it stops, and makes no noise, or it cmakes one click sound. Not sure what is wrong....
Update...turns out Canadian Tire sold me a faulty battery. They gave me a new one and it started up! Thanks Dony for your amazing videos!
Directly BEHIND the Tractor of my Craftsman LT2000 was a Tranny Neutral linkage that I pull in order to push the tractor into its storage place. For a hour I couldn't initially cold start my lawn tractor in the Spring, because I forgot to re-engage this linkage. Somehow it was tied into the electrical safety circuit. I'm embarrassed to say how forgetful us old people can be, that the same thing happened twice. HA! That's why its good to write your own "Lawn and Equipment Maintenance Journal, it makes a great reference to fall back on.
Good day Yes them battery usually don't last longer than 2-3 yrs. Thanks
Thank you very much for you video. I had the same issue and couldn't figure it out until you said to use a jump box. Started right up. Going to get a new battery. I appreciate you.
Thanks for this informative video. I followed your advice and my tractor started perfectly having clicked until the battery was failing….. 👍👍
Great explanation and straight to the point without all the fillers. A+++++
I finally got me a load tester,it takes all the guesswork out and saves time in diagnosis.
lol
The best on CZcams. By far!
D B...you are welcome to stay in my garage anytime buddy..you are my Hero..thank you...Catfish.
Thank you so much. I had the first problem. All i had to do was wipe the battery connectors off
Thank you so much, I have the exact problem and the exact tractor. I put a battery from a running tractor ,no change . Gotta be a ground or bad wire, connections are tight and clean.
CTEK makes great chargers/maintainers and devices to check the battery’s cold cranking amps (CCA). Been using them for years.
I'll check them out!
CTEKs are really good. I like to pull all my off season bats and just rotate the ctek around all the batteries every couple of weeks. They won't over charge and boil the batteries like some other cheaper maintainer chargers. Its surprising how much a battery in good condition will self discharge. I have heard they loose 1% a day. Once they get too low and sit too long the plates will sulfate up which will likely kill the battery.
I swear by Ctek!!!! I have 5 on all my vehicles!!
If you have a sunny shed or garage a 5 watt solar trickle charger works wonders on batteries that sit for long periods of time.
Working perfectly for me too.
My snowmobile battery lasted 14 years and snowblower batteries work for years too.
Good video Donyboy thanks for sharing
have a good weekend Tom!
5th CZcams video I watched. Fixed my problem. Thank you.
a plus , thanks . every damned year i have to fix this old john deere and i know jack about engines . 2210 bucks for the battery but it's running again . 3 spinning blades i love this thing .
time was the CCA was double on these batteries im told they halved it in the late 90s .
I use a solar trickle charger all year round. Seems to work well same battery for about 5 years. I only use the tractor to plow my driveway in the winter. But I'll start it up a couple times a month throughout the year.
Connecting the battery to an inexpensive battery maintainer during the winter will keep it charged and prevent the freeze damage that can happen to a discharged Lead acid battery exposed to freezing temperatures.
Does disconnecting and laying it in a warm room also work? (Sorry for bad english)
The best investment you can make a cheap 12V float charger. Always connect it to the battery if the machine will be left unused for long periods of time. Come winter always take the battery inside and store it disconnected. What kills these batteries is letting them sit in the cold all winter uncharged. As for a load tester, this is a critical test for any battery is it tells you if the battery can maintain the voltage while under load.
very true!
I do the same, and usually get 5 years from a battery. Bring inside and trickle charge a couple times a month.
Great video as always. The newer tractors has engines with electronic ignition systems and/or a CDI controller. Will it be OK to use like a NOCO booster on these?
yes the noco are pretty good at not over surging the battery and electronics, if you use the booster in video turn it off immediately after it starts
thanks for this. Although it seems like a basic check I was fooled by a bad battery. Last Fall during my last mow everything was going great. I got interrupted and turned off the mower. 15 minutes later I went back and nothing, no click nothing. I let it sit a couple minutes more and got 2 or 3 ever so slight clicks. A tape measure had fallen into the engine bay (small zero turn) so I thought I shorted something out. Your video plus those minute clicks reminded me the battery was original and a new one has fixed the problem so I can start out this year in good shape!
Thank you so much. I literally checked everything and had a new battery but it must have been sitting on the shelf for a minute because it has no power with a load on it.
On the Global Garden Products/Stiga/Club Cadet/MTD lawn tractors with the electromagnetic clutch for the cutting deck, make sure that you didn’t leave the clutch engaged when you shut off the engine as it’ll give the exact same click. Hard to spot unless you manually check it as the button only travels 1/2”.
I wonder if that was an issue with a new Cub Cadet ZT1 after I ran it out of gas and wasn't able to get it turning over until repeated attempts, and then finally it did after some fumbling about. Not exactly sure if I had the PTO pulled back up or if I forgot, but I didn't think it would click at all if the safeties were the issue. Since it clicked, it seemed like the symptom of a bad solenoid contactor rather than a safety lockout.
The mention of this could be in line with my running out of gas as it was cutting, and maybe I left it engaged after refueling, and it being all new.
Was thinking my battery shot but the gas had leaked and filled up the motor had to put a fuel shut off in the gas line faster than needle and seat in
Sold my lawn tractor last year with the original battery still going strong 8 years old
I know this videos a few years old but just was wondering something so I bought a new battery back in 2022 and this time after it sat for the Winter. It won't start but as soon as I hookup a battery jump starter to it it shows the hours and everything but won't start and doesn't have any form of sound im assuming it's the starter solenoid because it's not making any noise does that sound accurate at all lol thank you for your time.
Hi! Ai am from Finland. Thanks for good and useful wideos!!
Glad you like them!
I remove my batteries from my equipment and keep them in a warm area during winter, they last 8 to 10 years no problem
Yes. Mine goes into the basement on a tender, they last a long time.
I need to add that to my Fall chorelist!
I did that, still had to recharge it
I've only seen it once but it's possible to get a voltage drop across the top of the battery due to filth. It was enough to drain a battery during the off season
I am here for you to teach me it won't be hard I'm 64 years old and I live in Florida yes I had to replace my battery so I'm going to see what you have and what my next problem is see you again 😉
Nice, simple explanation, good video Don!
Thank you for sharing this information. 🇨🇦❤️
have a good weekend Paul!
@@donyboy73 and you as well. 👍
Merci François, Bonne Journée
vous aussi Raymond!
As a word of caution, if your tractor has an electric clutch on the mower, avoid jump starting the mower and then engaging the clutch and mowing immediately. The engine alternator cannot provide enough power to charge the dead battery and provide power for the electric clutch at the same time and this will cause the alternator to overheat and fail. With mowers with electric clutches you should always charge the battery overnight or longer to bring the battery up to as close to a full charge as possible before using to prevent alternator damage.
good tip!
are you talking about voltage regulator damage?????
I usually leave a trickle charger hooked up to mine. But the last 2 winters in southern Ohio has been so mild i've beem running them all year round
Thank You Don... ;)
i didn`t see check your starter ...... i watched a video by the eliminator . he was more detailed and his point about checking the current draw on the starter turned out to be my issue. the click plus a high pitched whine if you add a booster (battery jump start power source) will show a significant drop in voltage/amps . checking with a voltage meter set to dc volts start at the battery and to the solenoid relay and to the starter. in my case i removed the cable connection to the starter and got 12 volts or better at every point i mentioned and then used a working starter i mounted on running board with the cable connection that goes to your starter from the solenoid ( in most cases red and heavy gauged or thicK) that confirmed the original starter was toast. you did mention a load tester.... that`s if ya have one. hope this helps and i find your videos most helpful and pretty detailed. even a bonehead like myself can follow. thanks d.b. jimmy d from second chance mowers in reading pa.
Yah these springtime clickies it is usually the battery. Next level is connections/solenoids, hydro-locked engine (filled with fuel) maybe even compression release issues from incorrect valve lash.
Thank you for information and video
Merry Christmas ❤
If your battery is good but you get fast clicking take out your spark plug then try it.
My solenoid would click rapidly when turning over. My starter motor was getting 12v but wouldn't turn the flywheel even when attached directly to battery, but I could hand turn the engine pretty easily. Turns out I got a new sparkplug with my carburetor kit and installed a plug that was too short. It caused more air to be allowed into the cylinder. When my starter motor would try to turn the flywheel, it couldn't overcome the increased compression and would draw too much voltage causing a voltage drop, which caused my solenoid to click rapidly.
Thank you for sharing Don. Cheers
You bet
Great tips donyboy!!
Good video Donny
Thanks 👍
Thanks
Thank you for your support!
Great video Dony. Could you make a video on how to change a solenoid? Greetings from Saskatchewan.
to change a solenoid disc .two big wires the disc small 1or2 wires un screw mounting bolts or screws take solenoid out ad new solenoid best to get same type so mounting holes line up any auto parts store should have what you need as long as it has 2 big bolts and same little bolts it will work do not worry about amps etc they are all about same they may look diff but inside the all work same way
i am 88yrs old i have always stored my battery equipped mach. on unheated garage in winter I do not recall having any problems also my boat always out side before i sold it
Thanks for the video turns out my lawnmower battery was 6 years old lol couldn’t get a charge on it anymore
I use a trickle charger in the winter.
If it just won't start, check your PTO switch and your cruise control lever (especially), since if either of them are not fully off, it won't even try to start... Definitely happens here 😅
I use mine all year, do I do far have had good luck with my batteries,and I have 3 mowers that I use
Mine got rained on overnight in the winter and the next day its doing this. Think it could be the battery? It drove just fine before the rain.
When I see someone hook up a battery I always say, "Hey, don't be so negative, we stay positive here." And ya, I got a battery that is wearing out on my Snapper push mower, the battery dies in a week, so I have been forced to keep a battery tender on it, so I am going to have to replace it at some point.
on a positive point you could buy a new battery!
Had a friend who had the same symptoms as here and it turned out it was a 20a fuse under the solenoid.
It would start easily when jump starting the solenoid with a screwdriver, but a new solenoid didn't work either so after a lot of searching we found it was the fuse
it sounds like you are having regulator problems this changes ac volts from alt .to dc to charge battery you can test with volt meter with eng running should read over 12volts to charge battery 14-15 volts this is usually found mounted on side of of motor on left side small flat with small wire conn .
@@byronwoolfrey1039 most of them use 30 amp fuse thats why 20 amp blew
Always looking for your videos. 🏆👍👍👍👍👍👍🏆
thanks buddy!
Another good one Don. Thanks and have a great weekend.
Thanks, you too!
My cub cadet i just got (used) battery light is on and clicks when try to start but starts when i put a jump pack to it. I just mowed my yard with it and battery light went off but still wont start just clicks until i put a jump pack to it which it starts right up and runs like a Singer sowing machine.
I've often wondered if a lawn tractor charges the battery while running, seeing as there's no alternator like a car.
I am guessing the magneto/coil sends current to the battery?
I sold my John deere with my house 2 years ago, I still miss it but not the 2hrs it took to cut the grass.
yes there is a stator under the flywheel that charges the battery when machine is running
Riding mower just making a "spinning" sound, if that makes since. I used it. I did not mow anything. Using it to pull a cart behind it. Used it for about 4 minutes. Put another load on cart, turned the key, heard a loud POP.. When turning the key to start it, just sounds like something is spinning. It is not clicking when I turn the key. It started 2 times before without any problems,. it started right up. Serviced it about 2 years ago. Just replaced the mower deck belt on it. Any ideas? Thanks
Can you please show how to replace that particular solenoid?
Get a battery with a minimum 300 cold cranking amps.
Hey Dony. Didn't know you had lawn tractors in Canada;-] Usually see you repairing snowblowers, chainsaws and gen sets. Even here in Michigan where I use my GT 6000 year round for mowing, sweeping leaves, ground work and snow removal, batteries don't last more than a few years.
More good information from the doctor ❤️
I hear that clicking but wenn I put 12 V from the same battery directly on the solenoid control terminal (the little pin not the one at the top) the motor starts. I tested the connection/wire with an Ohmmeter -> no issue. I've no booster, but if the battery is weak the motor should start when putting 12 V at the little connector of the solenoid, right? It seems there is no 12V at the solenoid control terminal, when turning the key. But why can I hear the click then?
mine is clicking very fast, can i jump start by pass starter with a batt charger, it has 12v, and a "jump start" feature, but its like 50v or something for vehicles or something... not sure which
I replaced my battery. And I still have nothing at all! My vintage rider is a 1965 Symplicity Landlord 101..was starting just fine ..now nothing! Any suggestions..thankyou in advance.
check all the wiring, not a fun job!
I have a lawn tractor that even though I have 12 volts from the battery side and 12 volts at the small terminals when I press the clutch and turn the key, I can not get 12 volts on the starter side of the solenoid. I've replaced the solenoid with a Briggs and Stratton one, I've used a jumper from the mounting bolts to the ground, I've ran a jumper from the ground to the housing of the starter, etc. Starter works fine when you boost right on the starter and also works when you cross the solenoid with a screwdriver. I've also taken a jumper from the battery side to the small terminals and I still get nothing on the starter side of the solenoid. Do I have a bad replacement solenoid also???
Thank you for this video. My head was turning trying to fix it, then you mentioned the pto…I’m an idiot
It could also be bad ignition switch, loose wires on it, or even a bad starter. Also, a safety switch in the seat can be faulty.
Good job, Dony.
What would a bad starter sound like? I get more of a squeel from the tractor when trying to start it.
HELP!! I have a cub cadetxt1 42" when trying to start my lawn mower I hear a loud screeching noise and no movement in the tractor. Please help!
Thank you!!
That was $! My battery had a charge and the cells were good by hydro testing but dropped when a load was placed. New battery and lawn done ✅
I’ve got a lawn tractor that’s behaving strangely. When I start it, it fires right up… but only runs while the starter is engaged. As soon as I release the key and it returns to the Run position, it dies.
This behaves like it’s electrical.
Open to any ideas!
I have a Husquvarna 323L string trimmer that once it has run for 20 minutes or so it dies and won't restart. What's the problem ?
immediately check for spark when it dies, also the gas cap may not be venting properly
thanks for the great vidio sir
Thanks for this Don
Yeppp! after Every winter
Hey Donny..
Question..
Or,where can i send a question to you ..?
I'm working on a 148.986501 craftsman Chipper Shredder.
It has the Tecumseh Engine 195 but not sure of the exact model on the engine.
The problem i have and have had on similar ones like this is the phillips 3/8 hex bolt with 7/16 nut to hold carburetor on.
The outside bolt and nut are easy to get to , the inside one with the fuel inlet tube and the chipper housing is really hard to get loosened.
I have some long screwdrivers and real small wrenches but its just a pain and time consuming to get that back bolt out.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated..
Thanks for all the great videos
hi Mark, that's an issue that I would have to physically see
I just put a new battery in and it started - I mowed and then filled up the tank with gas and then it started putting and then I siphoned the gas out then put fresh gas and some SeaFoam and now I'm only getting the click from the beginning of this video.
So it worked I added gas and it started putting then now won't start
What makes the clicking noise? Underpowered solenoid?
If the battery is low or there's a bad cable connection, when the attempt is made to start, there's enough power to close the solenoid, but as soon as the contacts close the connection to the starter motor, the voltage drops below the level needed to keep the relay closed, and it opens up.
Once it's disconnected from the starter motor, the voltage rises again to the point where it can power the relay again, and the cycle repeats over and over in rapid fire fashion.
This is how a car horn basically works, with the car horn relay coil in series with a set of normally closed contacts.
What if it don’t work with jumper cables ?
Ok, cheap mtd 42" rider, clicks one time when you cycle the key, thats it, change battery.. no change.. jump it off... no change.. but hook cables to starter and it fires right up.. whats the problem??
Solenoid
most likely solenoid
Good video