BMW I-ABS COMPLETE BRAKE FLUSH R850, R1100, R1150, R1200, K1200
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- čas přidán 15. 08. 2021
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A mechanic I saw while on road trip in Europe ran some emergency braking test at the time and got 100bar+, he told me it was way too high and that it meant the OEM brake lines where aging and that it would be good to upgrade to steel braided ones.
From what I understand, the pressure measured by the test is the outward pressure going out of the pump.
Basically the more the pressure is high, the more it means the OEM rubber lines are absorbing pressure (by swelling / deforming) and basically requiring a high amount of pressure to get the required pressure to the brake caliper from what I understand ?
I had totally lost the front brakes (assisted + non-assisted) and when running your procedure I saw the ABS reservoir was totally empty...
Your video saved me entirely while at first a phone call to a mechanic told me without even seeing the bike that the ABS pump must have failed and that it would require change(3500e).
Thanks a lot man !!
my abs pump does not make any noise!!!
@@narcissistinjurygiver2932 then you have ABS II and not ABS III with brake booster
Your video was very helpful once again. I bought a 2003 BMW R1150GS and the brake system has never been flushed. It needed it badly. Followed your video to flush the system. It works great now. Many Thanks.
This was a brilliantly informative and clear video!
Very good instructions. Thanks Keep up the good work!
Thank you, 1st time I’m doing this, your vídeo was very useful.
Great video! I didn't read the instructions on NOT using a suction device so I completely lost the front brakes but your excellent video helped me to get it all to work again! Thx!
Excellent!!! Thanks for the detailed video.
BMW Guy , I referred to your video during every step while flushing my brake system on my 2002 BMW R1150RT. It looks as if the brakes had never been flushed or its been a long time for sure. I bought it in 2020. Worked well. Many Thanks.
Outstanding instructor, thank you..
I did this task a few weeks ago and it’s finally warm enough here in New Hampshire for a quick ride (42F). My brakes work fine, but I’m getting an alternating flashing of the triangle warning light and the brake failure message. As I said, the brakes seem to work just fine and I was able to lock up the front and rear in some sand. ABS worked fine. Thank you!
If you watch all the way thru you can see why upgrading to stainless steel brake lines is soo important. these bikes are getting to be 20+ years old and the old rubber lines are failing. its really only a matter of time before you squeeze your brake lever and your line pops leaving you stranded without brakes.
If you are interested in a set of top quality stainless steel lines please reach out to Thebmwguy126@gmail.com
I'm all set, thanx. I'm surprised you didn't mention in the vid before you even started that they needed to be replaced long ago...
Just finished bleeding the brakes with your help, front brake fluid was shot super like 'dead redish' fluid, the new fluid flushed out the old, and on the nipple line, the fluid went from dark to clearn really satisfying. Using a glass seringe to remove al the dark fluid from the front brake reservoir... Thanx again !
After bleeding you should NOT top it off, like explained here. You should push in the brake caliper cylinders all the way in. THEN you top it off. Doing it as explained you will spill the excess oil when replacing the pads. Spilling it on your frame and rear wheel.
Pistons fully retracted during bleed. I made a set of hardwood blocks the same sickness as new pads and new rotor in order to set the proper fluid level, per the service manual. Which I don't think he has read...
great thorough explanation!. I appreciate the non broken sequence (it may be long - but helps understand the full scope of the job!
You're very welcome! If you are feeling generous please consider "joining" my channel, it cost as little as 1.99 and really helps me out. it will keep videos like this coming! remember this channel is sponsored by me you and the rest of us!
Fantastic documentation, thanks a lot.
Great video. Thank you.
Awesome work. Very good step by step explanation. Keep up the good work.
I don’t know if you did a video on how to change the rubber lines to stainless steel ones. I would like to see that part too.
Great video!! I have done this twice on my 2002 R1100S that has the servo brakes. It was a real help to refresh my memory with the bleed nipple sequences. it is a well thought out video. I manufactured a funnel by using a transparent funnel that had a long 3/8 inch outlet and used a tapered rubber plug to seal the funnel to the servo unit. Drill the appropriate holes in the plug and you have a new tool.
Absolutely the best instructional video I've ever seen - just superb.
Glad it was helpful!
Very useful video helped me enormously with my k1200gt.
Great to hear! If you are feeling generous please consider "joining" my channel, it cost as little as 1.99 and really helps me out. it will keep videos like this coming!
Excellent explanation and video work. Much appreciated
Glad it was helpful!
Got a 2004 BMW R1100 to work on. People always say avoid working on the brakes because they are a pain. Very happy to find your video. Had no clue BMW made such a rats nest of complexity. Without your video we'd be dragging a foot to slow down.
Even the Clymer says “take to dealership”
Awesome video!
Ok I just finished this process in my 05 GS, using this video as a guide. Thank you BMW Guy, I had no problems! One piece of advice for diy guys out there- get the funnel tool. I bought it and was glad to have it while bleeding the abs pump. Much easier than what he does in the video, especially for someone who’s never done it. Thanks again!
Agreed. Perhaps unnecessary but very convenient. Having a motorcycle is largely unnecessary too but I sure enjoy it!
FANTASTIC video!!!!
Glad you liked it! please consider joining my channel :)
Solid gold here brother! Thanks a bundle.
You bet!
I replaced brake lines and followed this sequence to bleed the system. Got rid of the airbubles on the front circuit easily but the rear bleeders won't stop pushing bubbles through. I flushed with about a liter and they just won't stop.
Thank you!!!
This video is a good guide but I have to agree with some of the comments concerning the se of the filling adaptor funnel. I have bled my ABS system on my R bike every two years for close to 18 years now. The use of the funnel makes keeping the pump full of clean fluid so much easier and you avoid the chance of introducing air into the system.
Watching from New Zealand. Around 2yrs ago I purchased a spare iabs unit identical to mine but which had only covered 10000kms! I took the opportunity to carefully disassemble the unit without affecting the actuator settings. In the process discovered there are 6 fluid filters in the unit. I clean these each time I replace the brake fluid having already upgraded to stainless braided lines. These filters are in the reservoir (easily lifted out with fine nosed pliers.) And the other 4 filters are in the inlet and outlet fluid lines. In each case slide out the staple pin to remove the fluid line. Then with an open ended spanner crack open the joint and remove the filter plug. You'll see the filters at the base of each plug. Each is easily removed and I use isopropyl alcohol to clean. This action may be the most important process to optimise the system and maintain the ceramic disc fluid pumps.
Tell me how you get on please.
Regards from Taupo New Zealand
John Mason
Thanks for the post. Great video. Would you be able to do one video for clutch bleeding for r1150r?
Thank you for sharing...!
My pleasure!
Very good and informative video 👍
I have the R1200c Cwith the integral assisted brake system.I guess it,s done the same way.?Thanks for posting.Very well done .
good video, Thank you
thank you
Thank you for posting this, found it really helpful :-)
Please consider joining my channel.
Nice video! Have done this a couple of times on my 05 1200GS with servo assisted brakes. There is one minor thing i need to point out. Unless your brake pads are brand new when doing this, your ABS reservoir will overflow the next time you are changing the pads as you topped the reservoirs up fully. To avoid overflowing, you should either block out the brakepads maximum before this procediour. Or you can measure the level in the reservoirs before starting, and leave it the same level when you are finished (this will only work if it was done properly the previous time). Anyway.. overflow is not a serious problem, but its this easy to avoid it :)
Couldn't you just remove a little fluid from the reservoir before replacing the pads?
When we do a brake pad replacement we ALWAYS open the bleeder at the caliper and then push the pistons in. No dirty fluid being pushed back in the system and no fluid pressure being forced the opposite way.
Guys remember that on this bike the reservoir is under the tank. Yes your ways will work, but then you need to remove the tank just for replacing brakepads.
What hose are you using to flush out the old brake fluid? I need that.
With so many clueless souls to the limit out there seconds from disaster and or a very expensive fix your the real mvp
please consider joining my channel as I provide tailored assistance for scenarios like this.
This crazy ABS system almost killed me...🤬
Thank you for the video!
If you are feeling generous please consider "joining" my channel, it cost as little as 1.99 and really helps me out. it will keep videos like this coming! remember this channel is sponsored by me you and the rest of us!
Exceptionally clear instructions and video. A great teacher. Well done.
Thank you :)
Where do you get the test software ?
great! thank you!
Thank you for this video.
Glad you enjoyed it! If you are feeling generous please consider "joining" my channel, it cost as little as 1.99 and really helps me out. it will keep videos like this coming! remember this channel is sponsored by me you and the rest of us!
Great video! I was considering sending mine to the dealer but I think I just saved a couple hundred bucks!
Glad I could help!
Great! I am very grateful to you for sharing your knowledge with all of us. I own a 2007 K1200R and I would like to know how to do this kind of procedure for my bike.
only the servo type brakes
Replaced my calipers and started bleeding in the traditional way. I noticed the brake resivour wasn't going down so stopped. Doing some research and came across your video. Glad I stopped when I did as I think you just saved me a head ache. Back on it tomorrow now with the right technique 😎
Common mistake!
@@hstapes one you only make once 😂
Very good video, I only have one suggestion, 14:02 min. I would clean the cap before attaching it and the membrane seal as well. Crystals like to form there. Sorry for my English
Awesome video, very needed, thank you.
Question thought would, the bleedscrew from the rear integral system keeps giving air, even after more than half of a pint. Is something wrong there?
very well presented, great video.
Thank you kindly!
Thanks for sharing very helpful for sure where is your bike repair shop I have R1100RT and k1200 LT
merci beaucoup pour votre vidéo
Great instructional video, you obviously are a well versed mechanic for the BMW motorcycles. Without warning my "brake failure" light lit up, I thought it due to brake fluid loss. Upon inspection the level is down and quite dark but not empty. Added more fluid and the lights remain on. Does this indicate failure of the ABS pump and subsequent replacement? If so then the bleeding process in the video is how to bleed after replacement of the ABS? Or will the bleeding correct the ABS problem and eliminate the brake failure message? Thanks for any advise.
Thanks . I need to change my brake fluid and was going to buy a funnel but after watching your video it isn't necessary. I needed the whole video though to see what I need to do. Much appreciated.
Glad I could help
@@TheBMWGuy I thought I'd mention to you that I've heard a lot of BMW riders have problems with with what they call "surging". I bought a 2002 BMW R1150RT about 3 years ago with about 45,000 miles on it. It didn't run well but I thought I could fix it. After checking and trying out a few things I decided it had plugged fuel injectors. The problem could have been caused or contributed to by ethanol gasoline and sitting over the winter. To get to the point I use Seafoam and Lucas Gas Treatment to clean my injectors and now it runs really well. You are the professional on this and I'm sure you know a lot more about this than I do. This might be a good idea for a new video for you to make with your own take on it of coarse. A lot of people have this problem it seems.
Surging? Single spark? A good throttle body synchronization (after a valve check) and Autolite 3923, IIRC. (chack that...)
Thanks - I bought the motorcycle used and decided to do a throttle body synchronization. It was way off. Supposedly done by a BMW shop previously. After I adjusted it the bike runs much smother , has more power and gets a few more miles per gallon. @@dmaineac
Tanks
You may not of known this, but you can remove the two caps on the ABS unit that have the two breather hoses attached. You can suck out the fluid there and replace it with
new fluid to save some time in the bleeding process. Be sure to put fluid in each of those to the same level that it was before removing the old fluid.
I would like to point out that you are putting too much fluid in those resavoirs. The fluid should hit the max line with new pads, and then the low when the pads wear. The manual
states to use a tool that mimics new shoes for this procedure, and then reinstalling the used pads, if within specs. You can always tell how much pads are remaining by looking
at the fluid level, IF this procedure was followed. This also assumes that all pads are wearing evenly, which they usually do if the system is working properly.
I don't think he read the manual. The funnel is available, and is easy to make, for that matter. It makes the wheel circuits so much easier.
awesome thanks.
Thanks!
Your welcome :)
Thanks for the video. Have you consider using a brake bleeding kit?
Excellent video. Do you have one to diagnose the fuel strip or fuel gauge on a 1150gs? I know this is a problem for certain models
Hello this video is very easy to follow, I would like to know how to plug the bike to the PC and run these tests at the end, thanks
Do you or anyone else know where I can find the front reservoir rubber gasket at the handlebar mine seems to have swelled up for some reason. Perhaps the last mechanic use the wrong brake food and it reacted with it I’m sure this point I just need a new rubber seal for that front and the bar reservoir. Excellent video I sure appreciate it.
Good job
Thanks
Very good helping video man! I'll do it on my '06 GSA. Where can i find the test program to check? (i've a problem sensor)
Thanks - a really great video. If the clear pipe used for bleeding had a one way valve (like a lot of bleeding kits) it might save all the effort of opening and closing all those bleed valves.
Unless there is a reason not to ?
Thanks - your tutorial worked PERFECTLY. REALLY appreciate it.
Thank you, my english is not very Well.
But you have better explain the Instructions, than the German in the CZcams Videos.
Greetings from Germany.
Fantastic video. Have an issue with another iabs .. great brakes and pedal however constantly running pump motor parrot brake light switches correct. When ABS sensor or solenoid cause this issue? Have the alternating Fast Flashing abs and warning triangle thanks for all your help
Hi and thank you for the amazing video. I have 2005 K1200s. I recently replaced rear brake pads, then did break fluid flush from the rear brake calliper bleed valve. I believe you can do this with 2007 models and up, not 2005, my mistake. Now i have RED Triangle and Break light flashing on my display. I am trying to confirm that i have same ABS system shown here in video ? do not want to take fairing off and tank if not the same ABS Module. Also since i only messed with the rear breaks, would i have to do Front ABS Module Bleed Valves, or just rear? thank you in advance for your answer. UPDATE: I FOLLOWED YOUR PROCEEDURE, IT WORKED AMAZING, THANK YOU FOR ALL THE INFO.
We good instructional video… I was told I had to take it back to the shop because they use a computer to do some portion of this ABS bleed.
No, I know that’s not true
@thebmwguy I see more people have the problem that the rear servo circuit just sucks in air, even after bleeding almost a 1,5 liters of fluid (half gallon). Any idea’s? I suspect it may be sucking in air through the bleeding nippels?
Hello, Great video. Can you give a link for the fuel container and the tool you used for the nipple?
Great video, I just have a question
What if when I press my levers the servo assist doesn't work? Or what if it works continuously even after releasing the levers?
I think I have major servo motor problems.
Love your videos! Very informative and easy to follow. What kind of front rotors would you recommend for an 05 RT?
shoot me the last 7 of your vin #, ill give you an EXACT price and specs THEBMWGUY126@gmail.com
why dont you suck out the old fluid out of the abs pump before filling it to do the bleeding. I would assume its old and dirty and by refilling with new fluid you will get clean fluid at the caliber much sooner????
Where did you get the bleeder attachment for the evacuation hose? I’ve done it without that and the hose tends to become unattached. Thanks in advance.
Hi BMW GUY, very good video. Can you advise when @22:00 you showed the rubber brake line expanding, what level of pressure and by what means was that pressure introduced? Curious if manual operation of the brake lever could cause that much swelling and expansion. Thanks
This is the best video I have ever seen on this procedure. I do have a question concerning the failure of the ABS system. If the ABS system fails at speed is there any braking still available? If a line blows on the front, do you still have braking on the rear or vice/versa?
Nope, your probably going to crash. This is why an upgraded stainless steel kit is soo important
Great video…..Is the process the same on my 2010 K1300r…? Thanks….
Thank you for the video. Helped me out big time.
Glad it helped
great video - How can i get the abs error out now
Thanks for the fantastic video, I have a 2003 R1200cl but I don't see that year listed. My setup looks like the same setup you have so will it work on my 2003?
It should
Mine did the same, GS1100, replaced all my lines, front were bulging. Bled the abs, and flushed through, full of gunk. Then put risers on the bars, need longer line from MC... This is a later model set up, I did mine ala static, without abs running. I hear you can't use a power bleeder with abs?
Thaks for the nice tutorial video!
Did you disconnect the battery before disconnecting the abs wiring loom?
Nope.
Gday, just flushed my new to me R1150RT. It had the 4Hz flashing top abs light, thought maybe flushingnit would take care off it. But i seems my front system isnt pumping fluid, the rear is identical to your video.
Any ideas on how to maybe fix it? Thanks in advance
Great video! Thanks! I have stainless lines ordered. Where can I find the DSN 11 reader you used to prove the brake system integrity? I'm ready to have real brakes on my 1100RT!
R1100 has a different ABS system; bleed like regular brakes.
Place a single edge razor blade in the front reservoir. It won't squirt out then.
Do you have to use the computer, if so, could you show the hook up.
Is it special software?
The BMW guy does a person need to run the Gs911 program for this.
no, its optional
Hi! Please tell me, on bmw r1200rt 2008, the replacement of the brake fluid occurs in the same way as in your video or in the traditional simple way? Thank you!)
This is a great video! I just bled the ABS system on my 02 R1100S and this made it super easy. Is it normal to have a few drops of brake fluid come out of the breather hose after this job?
Yes. If there is too much fluid it drip out the breather hose. It will stop when correct level reached.
If you follow his instructions, yes. He doesn't show the proper level setting procedure.
which year did this ABS unit come out in? Looks like it might be a later model than on our R1200c
Great video, I'm working on 04 R1200CL , front circuit flushed & bleed with no problem. Rear circuit can't get air out of servo, must be sucking air in somewhere. Do you have any idea where the air could be getting in?
when you finish bleed screw #3 return back to #1 and keep bleeding 1, 2, 3, 1, 2, 3, and finish on #1. if that doesn't fix it tighten up all your line connections and try again
Hi,
I have a 1999 R1100 RT with ABS brakes. Bike was sitting for 3 yrs. I just got it to start. Noticed that rear brake pads are down to the metal (ordered those) and the rear brake fluid container is empty. I can't find this junction box (to bleed the brakes) that is showed in your video, on my bike. Do I just bleed the nipple on the rear caliper ? The brakes have not been used. I appreciate the advice. Thank you.
And if the abs unit is not working anymore, how do we bleed the abs reservoir fluid?
Is a 2011 R1200R with integrated ABS the same procedure even though they aren't Servo ABS brakes?
Hi BMW guy, my 2000 R1150GS has only 2 bleed screws. Which one should I bleed first?
Will this procedure work for a 1999 R1100SA? Thanks.
Hello! Amazing Video! How would this differ on an R1100gs, my ABS unit is different than the one shown.
Standard brake bleed with that system; no servo.
Hello hello BMW guy.and thanks for your videos I learn .much because of them.
My question is could I apply the same instructions on my 1998 R1200c with ABS?
Yes, absolutely
No. This procedure is for the iABS system. Yours is ABS2, which is bled as normal brakes are.
Great video tutorial. I have the I--ABS Gen 2 system on my 2007 R1200R, is there an easy way to bleed this system as it doesn't have any of the bleed nipples or reservoirs on the pump as in this video?
You just bleed that the typical automotive way.
@@TheBMWGuy Thanks, that's a great help.
DM me if you want the photos of the procedure from the shop manual.
How can I get the air out from reservoir to unit. I can’t get the pedal to get hard.