Thank you, sir!!! I had the exact same issue with the door warning issue and then an inoperative door lock. I repaired the wire for the door warning, but when I checked the harness for the door lock issue, I found multiple broken or frayed wires. I ordered the new harness and thanks to your video, will be able to install it with no problems. Thank you for such a great video. I prefer to do the work myself instead of having a shop charge insane rates for a simple job. Also, after I installed the harness and was going back together with the door liner(underneath the panel), you had mentioned the glue doesn’t stick well. I found that spraying the perimeter area with contact cement works great! The liner stuck just fine. I still put the duct tape up top like you did, but the cement held fine.
All the details with no filler. This has enough detail for any competent DIY to get the job done. I did this job in under an hour and the only thing I would caution you with is the door skin under the panel is brittle in the cold weather and you are best off with a heat gun and time to get it off in the most pieces possible. Other than that, this video was perfect.
Thanks for being so thorough with your shots and comments. I was able to pull back the rubber boot, resolder the frayed wires and add a sleeve of heat shrink to each one to add stiffness and protect the repair. Took about 20 minutes and saved me 70 bucks for a new harness and all the time and hassle of disassembling the door. No more Door Ajar warning and delayed dome light.
It will break again, guaranteed. I re-crimped mine 3 or 4 different times in the past and just the other day the door ajar wire broke off right at the connector. No way to crimp it again. have to buy a new connector. It always breaks at the worst time too.
This was the best online DIY for this project. Thanks so much for going thru all the details/steps. About to tackle this in my driveway as my part has just arrived.
Wow. This was a very well made how-to. I had already gone the splice route a few years back to fix power loss to the rear door but the door sensor wire (and some others) broke last week. After watching this video, I decided to just replace the entire harness. Thanks!
My issue is not as bad as yours. My problem is the door not locking or most times not unlocking. All my doors do it now. Lucky the one day only the one would unlock. Thanks for the info
Just changed out the harness in my 2010. Same procedure, savings %30.00 as quoted by old Service Department. Took a little over an hour from gathering the tools to putting everything away> Video was awesome!
This was great I have the same issue with the right side door I went to the dealer in Tennasee, ( I’m from Florida) I asked for a repair price, and was quoted $180.00 just to troubleshoot the issue, I’m not in the shape I once was, but I’m willing to take the chance after watching this awesome video. Thank you.
Thank you for sharing your experience, and your time with us. I have this problem with my 2014 f 150, with what I learned from you in your video I am going to repair it myself because at the Ford dealer it would cost me a leg and an arm to repair. Thank you 👍
This is perfect. I fixed this once already and kept having the same problem. I looked further after watching this and yes, I need a new wire harness. Multiple wires was broken. Thank you!!
My left rear lock stopped working. After checking actuator on right rear door, it was fine. Found the wiring harness with broken wires and cracked insulation. My 2012 does not have the 9pin connector, it is a solid cable. I am splicing in two multi conductor cables. This would have cost a pretty penny at the dealer.
Thanks for making the video, sir. I just finished doing mine. Did it in about an hour and a half, no problems. Part was just under 100 bucks at Ford dealership, and to the parts guy surprise, and mine, they even had it in stock.
lol did this in the dark with just a head lamp first time got my issue fixed I'm so grateful for you and the step by step process thank you so much worked great for my 2010 f150 platinum
Thanks for creating that video, it is very clear, and makes me confident I can complete this on my 2011 F150 with the same issue. I was most worried about disconnecting the existing coupler, but you showed that nicely. I got my harness from my local Ford dealer, was quoted a lot more than I could find on-line, but immediately they dropped the price by 40% to compete, so with no postage to pay, I came out ahead. I asked about the adhesive they use for the membrane, was told it is some kind of non-drying adhesive they have in the shop, not for sale. Not sure I'll find that, but will use your tape method if not.
Very good video and audio and thanks for covering everything including the gorilla tape. I have 3 wires broken and have ordered the wiring harness for both rear doors. The left rear is broken now but expect the other side to break in future. I will be replacing the whole harness today. I will comment back after i finish.
Thanks for the video, just ordered two harnesses for my 2014 F150. It's a shame Ford charges what they do for the harness, especially knowing the root cause of the failure.
I have also seen this on my GMC Yukon and Subaru Outback. So, I have to say it's common but if the wires were too thick, they would not fit into tight places as well as having the flex needed for certain spots. I get it, it just sucks for the end user. Next repair on the Ford, cutting and replacing the under side of the running boards. Seven year old truck and I have a really bad rust issue. I'll take replacing wire harness any day.
I am going to repair again for the 2nd time- Same door- Hardly ever opened or used- I am contemplating repairing again or swap out the whole harness- aggravation or repaired the severed wire. Just don't know if I want to order OEM parts- as they seem to not last- Crazy how they engineer and design things today- And I don't want junk made in China You made my case to "replace" vice solder- and i solder- I am going to remove the stiff thing (I bought used) and my 2010 was like new- and can't figure out why minimum use causes this?
Age and material used degrades over time. Over the years, replacement parts that are made OEM do get better as technology gets better. I have found this with other parts I have replaced on my GMC Yukon where the water pump was upgraded to better bearings by the OEM, not after market. Ford wire harness I believe is US made.
Mine broke right at where the stiffener ends. Im thinking it makes a point where the wire has to bend sharper, that it would only work if the stiffener inserted into the connector. Im gonna leave it out. Im going to depin the connector and use a low temp solder inside butt connector. I got tricked into thinking my problem was the door lock motor. It wasn't after that work. Then found this problem.
Thanks for the info. your truck looks like mine but for some reason the harness in my rear door does not match. The cab side rubber boot does not have a clip as the clip goes inside the cab wall and I think I have to remove the wall panel between front and rear door on the inside so I can get to the wire harness clip. I can't believe my 2014 crew cab is not findable on the Internet or Ford. I don't know why mine is so different than others. I am looking for a part number on the harness inside my truck, no luck so far.
It's a insulator tape. It comes wrapped up just like electrical tape but it much thicker. I cannot remember where I bought a roll, but I am guessing either in the electrical isle or a automotive store. Most likeley in the electrical isle in a hardware store. It is labeled as insulator tape and is a thick like rubber. It is hard to find.
Great video. Same door, similar problem. I had 5 broken wires... Pulled the whole harness and replaced a bunch of it. First sign was the door ajar light once in a while, and crackling from all 4 speakers when turned up. Wondering how bad the other doors are now.
It is actually a "vapor barrier" Anywater that leakes in from the window (in which there is a lot) is stopped by the liner from getting into the truck. So, yes, it is important to reinstall and secure it well.
If the part# matches. I would not shop for a generic wire harness that sais "Fits F150s..... and other truck models", you want the part to be an exact match by the part#. If that match is on Amazon, go for it.
Thanks. Needed this. I'm waiting for my harness to come via Amazon. Mine was $45.00 for a 2011 F-150 so I'm hoping it's right since it's quite a bit cheaper than the one you got?
You can't by design. If they used a softer but way more strands of copper wire, it would last longer. The current wire is too stiff. Damned if you do damned if you don't scenerior. Thicker copper wire carries current/amps better than multiple strands...
I ordered it directly from my local Ford Dealer. I needed the VIN number but I also brought in the actual part which still had the part number sticker attached. I do not have the part number on hand, but I believe I show it in the video.
Don't be so certain about having that new harness lasting you another 8 years. I am on my 4th harness in 10 years. This time it's the passenger power mirror constantly moving downward...probably because it's getting power from a nearby broken wire. 4 harnesses in 150k miles is ridiculous. I've had 3 other vehicles go ~400k miles with no harness issues. Ford should be ashamed of their poor engineering.
So far, just this one harness has gone bad. I have 165K milles. But, now my radio does random searches even though I picked a station to listen too. I will say, the F150, at least mine, for this year, is much easier to work on then my past GMC Yukon. GMC ties everything to their computer (ECU) so any switch, dash work, etc, the computer has to be flashed everytime. With the F-150, window switch goes, just replace it. No computer flashing.
Only guy I found that shows how to unclip the harness from the pillar. A++++ Many thanks!!!
Thank you!
You, sir, are a gentleman and a scholar! You gave me the courage to get this done today!!
Thank you!!
Thank you very much for watching. Glad I was able to help.
Thank you, sir!!! I had the exact same issue with the door warning issue and then an inoperative door lock. I repaired the wire for the door warning, but when I checked the harness for the door lock issue, I found multiple broken or frayed wires. I ordered the new harness and thanks to your video, will be able to install it with no problems. Thank you for such a great video. I prefer to do the work myself instead of having a shop charge insane rates for a simple job. Also, after I installed the harness and was going back together with the door liner(underneath the panel), you had mentioned the glue doesn’t stick well. I found that spraying the perimeter area with contact cement works great! The liner stuck just fine. I still put the duct tape up top like you did, but the cement held fine.
All the details with no filler. This has enough detail for any competent DIY to get the job done. I did this job in under an hour and the only thing I would caution you with is the door skin under the panel is brittle in the cold weather and you are best off with a heat gun and time to get it off in the most pieces possible. Other than that, this video was perfect.
Your correct. Warm air repair is better for all plastic parts on a FORD.
Thanks for being so thorough with your shots and comments. I was able to pull back the rubber boot, resolder the frayed wires and add a sleeve of heat shrink to each one to add stiffness and protect the repair. Took about 20 minutes and saved me 70 bucks for a new harness and all the time and hassle of disassembling the door.
No more Door Ajar warning and delayed dome light.
Excellent!
It will break again, guaranteed. I re-crimped mine 3 or 4 different times in the past and just the other day the door ajar wire broke off right at the connector. No way to crimp it again. have to buy a new connector. It always breaks at the worst time too.
This was the best online DIY for this project. Thanks so much for going thru all the details/steps. About to tackle this in my driveway as my part has just arrived.
Wow. This was a very well made how-to. I had already gone the splice route a few years back to fix power loss to the rear door but the door sensor wire (and some others) broke last week. After watching this video, I decided to just replace the entire harness. Thanks!
Glad it helped!
My issue is not as bad as yours. My problem is the door not locking or most times not unlocking. All my doors do it now. Lucky the one day only the one would unlock. Thanks for the info
Just changed out the harness in my 2010. Same procedure, savings %30.00 as quoted by old Service Department. Took a little over an hour from gathering the tools to putting everything away> Video was awesome!
Sweet!!
This was great I have the same issue with the right side door I went to the dealer in Tennasee, ( I’m from Florida) I asked for a repair price, and was quoted $180.00 just to troubleshoot the issue, I’m not in the shape I once was, but I’m willing to take the chance after watching this awesome video. Thank you.
Take your time, it's do-able with simple tools.
Thank you for sharing your experience, and your time with us. I have this problem with my 2014 f 150, with what I learned from you in your video I am going to repair it myself because at the Ford dealer it would cost me a leg and an arm to repair. Thank you 👍
Awesome! I am very happy I was able to help!
Thank you for being so thorough. About to go and tackle this in my driveway
This is perfect. I fixed this once already and kept having the same problem. I looked further after watching this and yes, I need a new wire harness. Multiple wires was broken. Thank you!!
Glad it helped!
My left rear lock stopped working. After checking actuator on right rear door, it was fine. Found the wiring harness with broken wires and cracked insulation. My 2012 does not have the 9pin connector, it is a solid cable. I am splicing in two multi conductor cables. This would have cost a pretty penny at the dealer.
This is exactly what I needed! thanks
A man who does a really helpful video with no drama is a real man!
Thank you!
Thank you so much for this video. I paid $47 for the harness, would’ve been over $300 in labor and parts. Great video!
Glad it helped
Thanks for a good video. You are the only one I found who explain how to disconnect the harness in the door.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video, after watching I was able to perform this repair on my truck in less than an hour. Much appreciated!
You're welcome!
Thanks for the video just finished the swap. Helped so much!
Great to hear!
Thanks for making the video, sir. I just finished doing mine. Did it in about an hour and a half, no problems. Part was just under 100 bucks at Ford dealership, and to the parts guy surprise, and mine, they even had it in stock.
Excellent!
lol did this in the dark with just a head lamp first time got my issue fixed I'm so grateful for you and the step by step process thank you so much worked great for my 2010 f150 platinum
Fantastic!
Thanks for making this video gave me the confidence to fix it myself part in Canada was $151.00 had it fixed within an hour.
Sweet, Hello to CAN! My wife is from Saskatoon.
Thanks for creating that video, it is very clear, and makes me confident I can complete this on my 2011 F150 with the same issue. I was most worried about disconnecting the existing coupler, but you showed that nicely. I got my harness from my local Ford dealer, was quoted a lot more than I could find on-line, but immediately they dropped the price by 40% to compete, so with no postage to pay, I came out ahead. I asked about the adhesive they use for the membrane, was told it is some kind of non-drying adhesive they have in the shop, not for sale. Not sure I'll find that, but will use your tape method if not.
Excellent! Glad it help.
@@bigguydiy2184 I got it done successfully at the weekend. I used this stuff from 3M called strip caulk to reattach the membrane.
Very good video and audio and thanks for covering everything including the gorilla tape. I have 3 wires broken and have ordered the wiring harness for both rear doors. The left rear is broken now but expect the other side to break in future. I will be replacing the whole harness today. I will comment back after i finish.
Glad it helped
Thank you for this video! I am heading outside to try and do this to my truck. Fingers crossed!
You can do it!
@@bigguydiy2184 thanks so much it took me an hour thanks to your video
Yup. That's my problem. I finally found the right video.
Thank you for watching!!
Thanks for this video bud because I'm in the same boat with this issue on my 2013 so now I know exactly what to do.
Thank you for your video. I switched mine out with a new harness and folllowed your video step by step!
Glad it helped
This worked to find/fix a broken wire which prevented my 2014 F-150 Supercrew rear door lock from working - thanks!
Glad it helped
This is the best video that I have seen on this problem. Very helpful.
Wow, thanks!
Yes, great video , thank you. I ordered both harnesses for our 2010 F150 rear doors.
Nice 👍
Great detailed tutorial! I was able to complete this repair in about an hour.
Excellent! Thank you for watching and your support.
May I ask where you brought the harness and what did you pay.?
Bought it from my Ford dealer and it was under $100 bucks.
Thank you. I am not a mechanic. But, I think I can do this on my 2013 FX4. Great instruction.
Just take it slow, do not force anything and it will work out.
Great video. Followed your steps and had it done in no time at all.
Glad it helped
Thank you sir! Finished it in 45min very informative.
That is awesome! Way faster than me. Waiting on the passenger door wire harness to fail. :-)
Great video. Thanks for taking the time to make this!
I'm very happy it's helping a lot of people. That was the goal.
Just opened mine up cause the window stopped working and I found 6 broken wires and 2 that had already been repaired
Thanks
It helped a lot. Mine had several repairs already and the rod inside was bent. So I changed it today.
Glad it helped
Part numbers???? Please
@@bennybartender call Ford with the last 8 of your vin. They are different depending on options
You are correct. Need the VIN to get the correct harness.
Very helpful. Just changed out my harness.
Glad it helped
Thanks Big Guy!
Great video! Appreciate it!
My pleasure!
Thanks for this video. Gotta do this soon.
thank you sir for the good video
You're are welcome!
I found 4 broke wires and 1 almost broken
Excellent how to vid! You saved me a lot of hair pulling! 🙏Liked and subscribed!
Glad it helped!
Excellent ! Went just like you showed ! Thanks
Glad it helped!
Thanks for the video, just ordered two harnesses for my 2014 F150. It's a shame Ford charges what they do for the harness, especially knowing the root cause of the failure.
I have also seen this on my GMC Yukon and Subaru Outback. So, I have to say it's common but if the wires were too thick, they would not fit into tight places as well as having the flex needed for certain spots. I get it, it just sucks for the end user.
Next repair on the Ford, cutting and replacing the under side of the running boards. Seven year old truck and I have a really bad rust issue. I'll take replacing wire harness any day.
I am going to repair again for the 2nd time- Same door- Hardly ever opened or used- I am contemplating repairing again or swap out the whole harness- aggravation or repaired the severed wire.
Just don't know if I want to order OEM parts- as they seem to not last- Crazy how they engineer and design things today- And I don't want junk made in China
You made my case to "replace" vice solder- and i solder- I am going to remove the stiff thing (I bought used) and my 2010 was like new- and can't figure out why minimum use causes this?
Age and material used degrades over time. Over the years, replacement parts that are made OEM do get better as technology gets better. I have found this with other parts I have replaced on my GMC Yukon where the water pump was upgraded to better bearings by the OEM, not after market. Ford wire harness I believe is US made.
Thank you so much your vedio was very helpful
You are welcome
This was an informative video, thanks!
Mine broke right at where the stiffener ends. Im thinking it makes a point where the wire has to bend sharper, that it would only work if the stiffener inserted into the connector. Im gonna leave it out.
Im going to depin the connector and use a low temp solder inside butt connector.
I got tricked into thinking my problem was the door lock motor. It wasn't after that work. Then found this problem.
Thanks for the info. your truck looks like mine but for some reason the harness in my rear door does not match. The cab side rubber boot does not have a clip as the clip goes inside the cab wall and I think I have to remove the wall panel between front and rear door on the inside so I can get to the wire harness clip. I can't believe my 2014 crew cab is not findable on the Internet or Ford. I don't know why mine is so different than others. I am looking for a part number on the harness inside my truck, no luck so far.
Well that stinks. Best of luck on getting it repaired!
Goooood👍
Any idea what that outer soft tape is called that allows the rubber flex piece to slide freely on the harness?
It's a insulator tape. It comes wrapped up just like electrical tape but it much thicker. I cannot remember where I bought a roll, but I am guessing either in the electrical isle or a automotive store. Most likeley in the electrical isle in a hardware store. It is labeled as insulator tape and is a thick like rubber. It is hard to find.
Great video. Same door, similar problem.
I had 5 broken wires... Pulled the whole harness and replaced a bunch of it. First sign was the door ajar light once in a while, and crackling from all 4 speakers when turned up.
Wondering how bad the other doors are now.
Thanks for sharing
@@bigguydiy2184 yea I thought that speaker sounded low, but I didn't think one speakers wiring could effect the whole system.
I kinda think that plastif lining is not necessary? It must be to quite down interior road noise? What do you think about leaving it off?
It is actually a "vapor barrier" Anywater that leakes in from the window (in which there is a lot) is stopped by the liner from getting into the truck. So, yes, it is important to reinstall and secure it well.
@@bigguydiy2184 Thx! for the quick reply. I will put it back on as instructed...
Do you think ordering the part on Amazon would work as well instead of taking the part to ford and waiting for a replacement to come in?
If the part# matches. I would not shop for a generic wire harness that sais "Fits F150s..... and other truck models", you want the part to be an exact match by the part#. If that match is on Amazon, go for it.
Thanks. Needed this. I'm waiting for my harness to come via Amazon. Mine was $45.00 for a 2011 F-150 so I'm hoping it's right since it's quite a bit cheaper than the one you got?
Glad it helped
How do we keep this wiring harness from breaking again? Does anybody have an idea?
You can't by design. If they used a softer but way more strands of copper wire, it would last longer. The current wire is too stiff. Damned if you do damned if you don't scenerior. Thicker copper wire carries current/amps better than multiple strands...
@@bigguydiy2184 thanks!
Looked like a different part number in the video that you got. I saw caa in it. Did you have the new part number
I brought in the old harness to the Ford dealer and the new part# I think superseded the old one. Common practice on older parts.
Where did you order the harness from and what is the part #
I ordered it directly from my local Ford Dealer. I needed the VIN number but I also brought in the actual part which still had the part number sticker attached. I do not have the part number on hand, but I believe I show it in the video.
How much was the harnesses.
I can't remember exactly but it was around 80 bucks.
Don't be so certain about having that new harness lasting you another 8 years. I am on my 4th harness in 10 years. This time it's the passenger power mirror constantly moving downward...probably because it's getting power from a nearby broken wire.
4 harnesses in 150k miles is ridiculous. I've had 3 other vehicles go ~400k miles with no harness issues. Ford should be ashamed of their poor engineering.
So far, just this one harness has gone bad. I have 165K milles. But, now my radio does random searches even though I picked a station to listen too. I will say, the F150, at least mine, for this year, is much easier to work on then my past GMC Yukon. GMC ties everything to their computer (ECU) so any switch, dash work, etc, the computer has to be flashed everytime. With the F-150, window switch goes, just replace it. No computer flashing.