More More MORE AMAZON RETURNS - Can They Be FIXED?
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- čas přidán 18. 08. 2023
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Hi, delving back into the Amazon Return Box to see what can be fixed. I hope you like it.
If you would like to support these videos, please click here / mymatevince
Remember that this is just for entertainment and I am not an expert in these repairs. The processes in the video may not be the best way, the correct way or the safest way to fix these things. I do love fault finding and trying to fix broken things, so I hope that comes across in this 'Trying to FIX' series. Many thanks, Vince. - Jak na to + styl
No one would think your fixes are fake, you've definitely been to war with certain items on your channel lol you deserve easy fixes from time to time.
well put, and i am happy vince has improved so much over time and has been learning new things
It feels sooo good to have your support, Vince 🥳🥳
Likewise!!! Thank you so much 👍👍👍
We’re also super happy that you support our favorite CZcamsr, thank you for that @PCBWay! Fun fact: I never watch sponsor segments, but I always watch them in Vince’s channel, since he goes the extra mile to make them tailored to each video.
@@MrKeebs Thanks Felipe👌👍👍
I didn't expect pcbway to actually have a CZcams channel
We also love that you support one of my favorite repair people and also deliver good pcbs for low
What I love about Vince's videos is he gets as excited as I do when I fix something that joy of making something broken work again is one of my favourite things and impossible to fake.
I love that negative camera. I didn't know something like that existed.
My sister had a roomba that was broken out of the box. From watching your videos, I knew that there was a chance something came unplugged during transit. And sure enough, that was the issue. Love your videos Vince!
An optocoupler can be seen next to the DC jack which means that that transformer is part of a switch mode power supply and not a linear one. The shottky diode does the high frequency rectification and also protects the circuit from DC going back to the transformer.
Yes, the schottky diode is for rectification, and after it failed, the dc voltage shorted across the coil. The coil is just a piece of wire for dc voltage, so it's like you basically connect the contacts together.
On the charger the diode that you took off does the rectification. One diode is a half wave rectifier. Therefore when plugged into the mains it was dumping 12V AC where it should be 12V DC, When you plugged in the DC it was going through the faulty diode and transformer to ground instead of being blocked by the diode.
Perfect, thank you PDS, I knew the viewers would have the answers. I haven't heard from you in what seems like an eternity. You keeping well? Are you still volunteering at the laptop for the community place?
@@Mymatevince Hi Vince I'm doing good. I stopped volunteering at that place about a year ago. I just wasn't enjoying it anymore. I've been going the gym and I still do 3D art in blender. So I been keeping myself busy.
makes perfect sense. it doesnt need any more than that. But i wonder what the noise was when he plugged it into mains?
Yes. Also the small transformer is probably for a switch mode circuit, a linear transformer would be much bigger. It looks like there's some sort of combined pwm ic and FET package on the other side of the transformer.
Just to clarify what the shorted diode is for. It is the output rectifier for the switch mode power supply transformer. If you plug the mains lead in the switch mode power supply won't work because that diode is needed to convert the AC output of the switch mode power supply into DC.
This man is so fun to watch, sometimes I just keep the video playing in the background and listen.
Thanks as always for a great video, Vince. I have to say, I'm sorry to hear of your current predicament and I'm sure I'm not alone in wishing for a speedy and agreeable resolve for you.
As a dad who has the occasional happy ponder over old photos of his kids, I was quite literally smiling along with you as you brought your old photos to life on the now repaired gadget. Really great stuff. Thanks again for a great vid!
Sorry to hear that your going through some stuff, hope it resolves quickly. Wish you all the best. Great video!
👍👍👍
Vince, I loved seeing you reminiscing on those memories of you and your kiddos❤ keep being awesome 👍
Another great Fix video, Vince! I hope your issue gets resolved quickly! Just so you know, we'll be here supporting you!
So amazing to see our kids from way back. You led me to look for my own pictures from 20 years ago. Thank You.
10 years of working with helicopters and really large FLIRs, and this is the first time I've ever seen one that small. Or not pronounced "fleer!" This video was so fun! The Kodak thing really made me smile, honestly. That's a really neat gizmo.
Great fixes Vince, hope the situation gets resolved quickly.
My husband and I send our best wishes as you deal with your issue and have to say thank you for sharing your Journey of fixes with us all In your own way you have given me a break from the sorrow of the loss of my Mom so I hope the Joy and peace you provide us, with all your fixes comes back to you and your family a thousandfold
Sorry to hear about what you're going through stay strong i'm sure you'll get things sorted out soon.
The battery charger uses an isolated switching power supply topology called a flyback converter. The transformer is actually a coupled choke (because it stores energy) with one primary and several secondary windings. There will be a FET switching rectified mains across the primary at high frequency. The secondary circuits just have a single diode and capacitor each. The circuit is arranged so when the primary FET is on, all the secondary side diodes are reverse biassed, and current ramps up in the primary. Then when the FET turns off, the ampere-turns are delivered into the secondaries. If one dc output capacitor has lower volts per turn than the others then it gets all the primary energy for that cycle. If one of the secondary rectifiers blows short circuit then the primary winding sees a big reflected capacitance which will cause it to current limit as soon as the FET turns on, so the other outputs will get very little charge supplied to them. All the best.
Thank you Lumbo for all the info 👍👍👍👍
Fantastic video Vince, loved every minute of it. Stay strong mate, in my eyes your a legend.
i hope you can get your legal issues sorted man . i have learnt a lot from you and always love your fix it vids .
Always a pleasure to get a "chill easy fix" video after some hard battles you earned it!
Also I never saw that Kodak machine, it might come in handy for a friend who has a ton of those negatives from the past (with french president Jacque Chirac and the Mauritanian president at the time no less!) but he has no money to develop them for an expo thanks Vince!
I love this Box! So much honest and yet interesting faults!
Great videos Vince, keep them coming. My wife and I have just finished a marathon two weeks watching all four series of Manifest.
Sad to hear you're going throught a rough time mate, hope ye get things sorted alright!
I love Manifest too!! Great series. So heartwarming that you ‘left’ for a short bit to watch it with your wife 😇
Hi Vince, nice and straight forward fixes! Thanks for the entertainment!
I am sorry to hear for what you are going through. I hope you manage to sort it out. Good luck!
Nice one, thank you Marcel 😎
The faulty diode on the Nitecore battery charger was shorting the DC supply and also the AC coming from the transformer. The diode was sinking all the current provided by the transformer and pulling the voltage output of the transformer down, which is why it heated up. As for the humming, without the diode the switch mode power supply has no load, in an effort to keep the output voltage at 12v the switching frequency gets dropped all the way down which probably caused some coil-whine in the audible range.
Im fairly new to the channel and was thinking.. my goodness how jammy! Great stuff and I hope your troubles are soon resolved 🤞🏻
More more more ;) That diode is a TVS Diode - Transient Voltage Suppression. Probably for reverse current protection. The AC side probably generates the voltage the DC jack provides - so both will be shorted by that same diode?!? Best PCB Way adverts btw - I watched all of it!!!
That was a really entertaining and enjoyable video! I love seeing electronic items fixed, and I also like fixing things myself (so long as I have the tools and knowledge to do so). Sorry to hear about the situation you were in.
If given the opportunity, I would happily buy one (or both) of the Xbox controllers and the Nitecore charger. I wouldn't even use the mains input as I have plenty of 12V DC chargers lying around (from when I've stripped apart TiVo boxes).
Good stuff Vince, keep'em coming!
Love the channel! Cheers, hope the troubles clear up.
Great video as usual 😁
Loved the film scanner
Vince, you can make a bypass light bulb to limit the mains current in case something is shorted. It's just placing a light bulb in series with one of the mains wires. If the thing you are testing is shorted it will just light up and avoid damaging it more (and prevent a fire too)
but its has to be an incandescent type bulb (old type not LED or CFL).
can be an halogen lamp too, incandescent bulbs are hard to find these days, specially 60W and 100W, which are the ideal ones for that
Just make sure when dusting the scanner interior that you check for dust on the now-working backlight. Judging on the fact they're in the same spot AND in focus, that's where i suspect those bits of dust are.
I’ve scanned several thousand negatives and slides over the years and the worst issue is usually dust on the back light, once you know the film is clean. I just blow with a lens blower and that usually sorts it.
Really entertaining, I'm a big fan of the channel.
Regarding the short shotky diod, my simple reasoning is that it's dividing the ac transformer secondary side from the dc part of the circuit. Once the diod semiconductor matures to a full conductor, it passes the dc 12v (from the bench supply) to the transformer, which when fed dc, acts just like a wire short to the ground through the other end of the secondary transformer coil.
Your videos are so fun. Thanks for uploading and showing how you troubleshoot
Your video's are really addicted to watch. Keep up the good work. You make me smile and enthusiastic to do some repairs.
These silly fixes are the easiest and very rewarding. It reminds me of when I bought a Davis Vantage Vue for parts/not working. And the problem was that the transmitter with all the sensors were transmitting on a different channel than the console was receiving. I think :D
Another great video Vince I'm learning something every time cheers from vegas
Great video, Vince.
I wish you a speedy resolution to your subsidence problem.
Great episode Vince 😁
Thanks for another great video. Best wishes that your predicament gets resolved in your favor. Best wishes form the USA
I love these videos, as they fascinate and inspire me in equal measure :)
another great video really love these helped me to start fixing things rather than throwing and buying another 👍👍👍
cheers vince mate keep them commin love um, good luck with the subsidence issue pal.!
Don’t remove a diode from the secondary side of a smps!
The problems isn’t that it is no load, but there is no feedback to the opto-coupler.
If you’re unlucky the primary side blows!
Because the opto-coupler is used for the feedback/regulation of the secondary voltage, by removing the diode, the opto-coupler has no reference voltage so it ‘thinks’ there isn’t any voltage and it lets the primary side oscillate a it’s maximum witch often results in a short circuited power mosfet, or if you’re really unlucky: everything blows in the primary.
I'm really glad I live somewhere where I don't have be paranoid of mains power. I've changed outlets without turning off the power. I used to work with an electrician that would check the power by wetting his fingers and touching the wires.
that second device is incredible, such a convenient viewing experience if anything! awesome
Another great video, Vince 😀
I'd happily buy the Kodak Scanza from you as I've just been given 1000+ 35mm slides to digitise by my Dad!!! Slides from 70's and 80's
Gday Vince, hope the issues all get sorted out. 🙏
Great video Vince!
I hope you get your conflict resolved. Conflicts like this don't only affect money but also ones mental wellbeing. Stay strong, I am sure it will get resolved.
The film digitizer device thing is really really cool.
With a little post processng that we can do nowadays you could make some very impressive photos once they are in the computer.
I'm not an electronics engineer, but my father was. A Diode of that type (your battery charger fix) is meant to allow electrical flow to go one way only. If a diode shorts out, it allows electricity to flow back into the circuit, causing the fault. Neither the AC or DC side will work because of the placement of this diode, taking it out did allow the 12V side to work, so once you replace it with a good diode, you should be golden. Also pay close attention to the direction of the diode's placement, that dictates the current flow.
The DC and the AC shared a common rail (12v), the AC transformer had it's winding output shorted through the diode and hence couldn't start up.
The DC 12v would flow through the shorted diode, through the transformer winding and to ground.
Removing the diode removed the DC-in path to ground through the shorted diode and winding, but also meant there's no rectified output for the AC mode (Diode missing).
The fact the thing didn't explode when plugged in is due to the auxiliary power winding (mains side, 9-16v typical) over-voltage protection (above 16v) kicking in to protect the mains switching controller IC, to prevent fire of course.
The diode being missing now is the only thing stopping the mains function working.
2 sources, 1 rail.
Thanks for the detailed comment dedr4m. Cheers for sharing your knowledge👍👍👍👍
These are my favourite videos u do
Very nice fixes :) Surprisingly expensive that film negative scanner, bought one in 2015 for about 30 Euros, altough mine doesn't have the screen or memorycard slot, it works only with computer via usb cable.
It was fun going through old negatives and scan them. Found some pics, that were never made as a paper photos, because they were incomplete or had failed otherwise one way or another. Still, they had interesting enough material, that I scanned them, for example from summer holiday trip in summer of 1985. My parents enjoyed seeing those pics as well after all these years :)
Dust tends to be a problem though, had to clean the negatives, and the scanner multiple times during the scanning. Luckily the scanner came with cleaning kit, so it was easy to do.
Thanks. Yeah the dust really shows up on them. I gave it a blast with the datavac, but I haven't tried any since. Interesting to heat about the cheaper version. Thanks for sharing👍
I do similar work on cars ,plumbing, heating, electrics, hydraulics, guns, ect. Master of none
31:11 A transformer is a coil that loops to ground. The diode is there exactly to prevent the 12v in from going true the transformer back to ground when the mains is not being used.
That explains why the 12v in was not working but doesn't explain why the AC wasn't.
As you said 39:36 if the diode is shorted and acting as a wire the AC side should just work normally. Since it isn't, it means there is most likely something bad going on on the AC side. And 40:13 I don't think just replacing the diode will be enough to fix it.
Good job .hope the car coming along well .
It measures shorted because you're putting DC across the transformer secondary winding, which looks like a short circuit....it's a coiled wire, but still just a wire to DC.
Top tip if u have larger batteries that dont fit charge say c or d cells use a safety pin on the end to raise the terminal.
I have had problems with my Power-A Xbox wired controllers. My sons started first with the buttons under the analog sticks stopped registering button presses. then the triggers LB and RB(top shoulders) stopped. Ended up the micro switches were bad. Luckily i had a few junk VCRs that had a bunch of switches in them. After i fixed his controller within a week my controller started acting up! Buttons not working at all.
Love the videos!
@35:00 you're confused about the AC voltage. The diode you removed, makes it DC. By just being one diode and not a makes the DC output very choppy, which then is probably smoothed out by a condenser.
I could hear the worry in your voice vince. Don't stress about your current situation. The truth always comes out . Just do as much research as you can . Cover all the bases . Stay strong 💪
Great comment.
There is a few mixed bag of videos I like them seeing a mixture of faults nice fix Vince
Cheers Ellis 👍
@Mymatevince no problem bud need to sort my Patreon pledge out didn't know the payment didn't go out
@@ellisgarbutt1925 No worries Ellis, you've pledged enough already mate, more than enough! 👍
Love this channel. What camera are you using? The clarity when you zoom in is amazing. Thank you
Really sorry to hear about your predicament & the effect it's having on you! Gotta say i think your the most positive person I've ever watched on CZcams! I know in time it WILL all be resolved & as the saying goes "you can't keep a good man down" Hope you do get it all sorted sooner rather than later 👍🏻
Thanks Rebug, I really appreciate that. Luckily mentally I'm already getting over it. Thanks for the kind words😎
@@Mymatevince Glad to hear that & your very welcome! 👍🏻 You've given me & millions of others loads of great content so my kind words are the very least i can do 🙂
The photo scanner is the same issue I had with a video projector my sister bought. No light. They didn’t have any more stock and gave her a refund. They didn’t want it back so she popped into my house and I took it to bits to what was wrong. The projection led wasn’t plugged in, the plug was sitting on top of the pins. I pushed it on properly and it lit up and threw a nice big picture on the wall
Sorry to hear about the subsidence claim. Your videos always make the Earth move for us.
Great video Vince, when you revisit it, check the diode at D4 as that left leg looks dodgy where it's soldered to the board, I'm a vaper and use one of these chargers for 18650's and 21700's and I can tell you this is a fault I've seen myself and has resulted in 2 burnt out boards on both the ones I had, one literally went into a melted mess it got that hot, I've since changed manufacturer.
I love watching your videos Vince! And I'm so happy to see the Rolls coming together! During COVID lockdowns I found your channel through Elliott along with Steve over at Tronicsfix. I'm an IT professional and was already a computer expert but I wouldn't have had the confidence to start fixing other stuff if it wasn't for y'all. I run a tiny local repair business out of my house and I've just recently started filming stuff to put on the channel I made for it (Don't Panic Tech Solutions). Thanks for your inspiration!
You are genius 👏
Keep up your good works..
I haven’t seen a breakaway on a controller wire since the original Xbox, I always found that really ingenious and Very interesting.
I'm using a PowerA controller to spare some ware on my Elite. It's a nice controller it's not a Elite but it works fine for every day use.
Symmetrical on *BOTH* sides! How advanced!
You and joeydoestech are my favorite tech fix channels.
I’ve been eyeing doing my own trying to fix videos so I saved up money and bought a couple of job lots of phones
this diode is for rectifier to DC voltage , when the diode is short all 12 v DC is short because it connected directly to secondary on transformer , one pin GND the other pin B+ they connected together by the diode
Thanks Vince really enjoyed the fixes, maybe with the battery charger someone plugged in the dc plug whilst mains was plugged in also? Just a thought 😊
Hope the problem that you have is sorted in a nice way 😊😊
I am not surprised by the easy fixes, I used to buy pallets of returns and the vast majority were either not faulty or a simple fix. It wouldn’t have been economically viable if the majority had actual faults due to component failure.
The SS schottky diode you removed will be doing half-wave rectification from AC to DC
Don’t know if anyone has mentioned it but when you connected the power lead to your extension and turned it on one of the silver rods was touching the middle pin creating a circuit
12:49 I've always admired your ability to turn a negative into a positive! 😄
35:40 in this shot, it looks like the negative rod on the left is touching the positive connection, hard to see from a one dimension perspective but if they were touching each other perhaps the noise was contributed by this? Also, why you don't have enough faith in your work by now? You're always expecting a 'bang' to go off. I can tell you that I have faith in your work, don't be so hard on yourself. Besides we all love a bang now and then it adds the dramatic effect! Keep on doing what you're doing, Vince and I hope things get sorted in your favour.
Remember, it's not worth worrying about something if it is not in your control.
When u have ac voltage coming from a transformer u can make a bridge rectifier with 1,2 or 4 diode with one diode depending upon the position it can turn to negative or positive
The bad schottky diode is the half wave rectifier diode for the transformer.
i suspect that diode is the rectification diode for the transformer output and with it shorted the transformer winding is directly connected across the power rail
Since the diode was shorted, the DC voltage input was flowing through the diode into the secondary winding of the transformer (shorting the +ve with the GND)
very nice videos. question where do you buy these boxes if I may ask?
Great video Vince. Can I ask you what app you use to test controllers and how do you deal with the different controller plug ends? Take care, Allen.
Hi My Mate Vince, The reason you would get no output on the battery charger secondary side is the that feedback see no voltage and shunts down the primary side of the power supply, I Would not plug in a power supply without that rectifying diode can cause the primary side to blow up with no feedback, That diode is under extreme stress and is a common failure point, I would go with a higher Amp rating to get it to last longer, great video 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks AR, you're always the man with the answers 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Believe that diode is for reverse polarity protection so it should work fine as long as you don't use charger with positive on outside
13:54 I already spotted it when you shown the Side of the connector! 😂
That diode is there to keep the 12v from flowing into the transformer and generate power to the mains input eventually outputting power to the figure 8 pins and tripping the GFI when both are plugged in
FLIR cam for the win!
Well man you got sub i am pro repair and even for forcing manafacturers to provide repair manuals,parts and have repair score on ther packaging.
Young Mate Vince 👍👍👍