Tao Tao 140cc Pit Bike Street legal light Set up (HOW TO)
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- čas přidán 13. 09. 2019
- Sorry for the blurry lag :( My camera was not in the correct setting.
Installed lights on my new 2019 Tao Tao 140cc pit bike.I hope you guys found this video helpful and you can now install lights on your pit bike if you want to register it or just add lights to make you bike cool ! Adventure videos coming soon. Thanks for watching !
Part list:
www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-R...
www.ebay.com/itm/White-Univer...
www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Li...
www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Mo...
www.ebay.com/itm/12V-DC-4-Wir... - Auta a dopravní prostředky
To anyone watching this with a newer Tao 140 model the harnesses now have 2 yellow wires both are empty where they mate up on the other plug so you can do the same thing they did by tapping in to the harness but since you have 2 yellows you can Use either or and have 1 run to rectifier and 1 will be ground. In order to get your bike running good and powering the lights fully you have to increase your idle on your carb. Higher idle = more power running through your bike to compensate for the power the lights draw. I had bought a battery but found it was completely unnecessary, took up too much space and if you get the same handle bar switch as this video there’s no off switch for your lights so you would have to wire a separate switch to kill power from battery or unhook it every time, hope this helps anyone struggling. Shoutout to the video creator for giving the blue print ✊🏾
I also recommend upgrading your ignition coil to a nibbi. I have a nibbi 26mm carb hooked up with the smallest main jet that it comes with (i think 108) and needle dropped down to the 4th notch, creature cdi box and it runs great 👍🏾 17 tooth front sprocket installed already and a 35 tooth rear and road tires on the way. If you get the same size tires as your knobbies you can use your stock rim and tube
Another tip, if you have a battery to use as your power source while you wire you can test out your lights and switch without having to start your bike every time 😉
Can you make it street legal like the semi automatic ones like is it the same process and stuff
You’re the reason why I bought a pit bike and I couldn’t thank you enough your videos are gold
Bro I watched this like 10 times appreciate it
Can't thank you guys enough for this video an the knowledge y'all shared with us because I was lost thinking of how or what would be the best an easiest way to hook up lights on my bike which is the same identical bike as u have in this video which helps so much.. thanks again gotta run going out to hook up my lights now while I sit an replay this video over an over again until I get mine done 👍🏼
You guys just inspired me to get a street kit on mine. Thanks
Lights are a good idea no matter if you plan to make a pitbike street-legal or not, for safety's sake. If you get caught out in the middle of nowhere when it gets dark, these will help you get back more safely.
Great video👍🏼
It was one of the best
Mann where would we be if people didn’t make vids like these
What you have there is a regulator/rectifier. It has two purposes;1- it regulates the power coming out of the stator and keeps the power out to approx. 12 volts (thus not allowing regular incandescent bulbs to blow out from too much power) and 2. It transforms the AC power out of the stator to DC power (this will allow you to charge a battery and power LED lights). Most LED will not work with AC power and you will damage the LED if try to powering with AC power straight from the Stator. When powering LED lights you either wire straight from the battery or straight from the regulator/rectifier. If you really want to do this right I would put some relays to protect the switch and wires from over heating and melting. Also you will notice your lights are still flickering and dimming when the bike is at low idle. The light gets brighter when revving higher. This is because the stator is small and weak is probably putting out less then 12 volts at low idle and when the engine is revving higher the regulator limits it to 12 volts. Again, the preferred way is to power from the battery this keeps the power consistent. You then open up a whole another project trying to stuff a 12 volt battery under the seat and building a battery box with some inline fuses.......etc. There’s not a lot of room on that bike for that.
David Gomes thank you for your great knowledge, and yes maybe a battery install will be next :)
David thanks for your helpul reply. I have the same bike and I am going to do the same thing. I'm ok with a dim headlight if the stator is a little weak for the setup. There is a 190cc version of the same engine I could see if that stator will fit. My concern is what happens to all that extra voltage? This bike will put out more than 12volts at higher revs and usually the exccess volts go to charging the battery but if there is no battery what happens to the extra voltage? Thanks
Let me address a couple of things first. The larger the engine or larger CC is not going to change the amount of electricity produced by the stator. As an example, a 125cc engine spinning at 6,000 rpms and a 190 cc engine spinning at 6,000rpm will produce the same amount of A/C electricity if the stator in both engines are exactly the same. The secret in producing more energy at lower rpms or at idle is a good quality stator/magneto with many pickup coils and good windings. The stator's in most of these Chinese pit bikes are very basic with minimal pickup coils and cheap windings. They were not intended to produce tons of energy to power heated grips/seats/headlights/charge batteries/power the CDI and any other accessory you would want on a bike. Again, if you want more electricity production look at getting a better stator for that type of engine. I believe they do make them and you many need to source the parts from Ebay or Aliexpress. I'm not sure what type of stator is in the 190 cc version of these engines but if it's better than the one in the 125cc and it fits then you will produce more energy especially at lower rpms. Now, to address your second question about all that extra energy and where does it go. The simple answer is: it goes into burning out your incandescent light bulbs and heating and possibly melting your wires and switches. An incandescent bulb will work optimally at 12-13 volts. It will also work at 18-20 volts and be a little brighter, but will also burn out that much quicker. You will go through many burnt out light bulbs hooked up to an unregulated stator. Same goes for charging a battery with an unregulated stator. Optimum recharging for a battery is approx. 13.5-14.5 volts (in that range). Will the battery charge at 18-20 volts yes, but will also heat up the battery and the surest way to killing a battery is overheating it. You must regulate that energy with a regulator/rectifier. The regulator will smooth out the highs to a limit amount of approx. 12 volts (This insures nothing is getting to much energy). It will also convert that energy from A/C to D/C current more appropriate for charging a battery since it is also DC current. To do a proper job you should have several inline fuses to battery and other components as well as relay switches to lights/light switches. This will insure no overheating of anything and damage.
@@dgomes1967 David Thanks for your reply. I wanted to make sure there was nothing I missed. I was referring to the regulator in the setup as well. I confused the extra voltage coming out of the charging wires of the regulator to the battery. And assumed all the circuits would go up to 14v. I forgot how the regulator treats the battery different from the other circuits. My Chinese scooter has held up pretty well so far but it only has one fuse. So has my 140cc dirt bike. Though I must admit my scooter's headlights are really dim compared to the other Chinese scooters and I suspect I have a lot of resistance in one of the light circuits. Maybe one of the wires got overheated like you mentioned without a relay. Thanks for reminding me how the regulator works.
I did want to bring one thing up though. You said a 190cc stator generates the same power as a 140cc stator. Are you factoring in the increase in bore size? The bigger the bore I believe the bigger the spark. Wouldn't the 190cc stator need to have more windings to generate that spike in energy for a bigger spark or longer ark? Thus making it produce more energy. I clearly notice a 50cc scooters stator has 6 windings and a 150cc scooter has 8. That has to count for something. I would love to hear your thoughts thanks again man.
Thsts frame rate bud the flickering
Do you need two banjo bolts, one for back brakes and the other for front brakes, so it will also activate the rear brake light? Thanks for video, any feedback appreciated.
Yo 2 years later was it worth making this bike street legal? How's its running? Got any videos taking it out?
I hope you changed out the junk carb for an upgrade btw. I just change mine for the upgrade and still bogs so hope the needle clip adjustment helps. No air fuel adjustment on this one
Hay bud how did u guys hook up the horn on the 140 pitbike I order all the parts u listed and that's the only thing i have trouble with i appreciate it for a reply back thank u so much
When wiring the horn if you get a switch like this there is 2 wires for your horn. 1 goes on 1 of the 2 prongs on the horn with power wire on the other. The 2nd wire from your switch will be used as ground. When running off rectifier you have to turn your idle way up to get your horn to blow loud and not have your lights dim too much when hitting the horn
I wired my Chinese bike to make it street legal it was more complex then what is presented on this video. I added head and tail lights, rear break lights, left and right turn signals for front and back. I also added horn for some reason the horn isn't powerful. Do I need a capacitor or amp fus how did your horn sound. That on how you installed it and what it sounded like was completely left out.
Thank you !!!
what thread style did you get for the brake light sensor, the 1.0 or 1.25?
Where did you get your other bike for so cheap
The last link is broken for the 12vdc 4 pin. Can you supply a new link please
How's the 17T sprocket holding up? Do you think an 18T would fit on there as well?
Im looking for 18-T but loosing torque
Im trying to mod mine to get the gear position, any idear how i can do this?
@brzrage Is the banjo bolt for the break lights the right thread ? Linked in the description?
Badass vid btw keep up the good work
No the banko bolt is possibly 28mm. I purchased a break light switch with spring to avoid the thread issue. You simply zip toe the switch to the frame of the bike by the rear break. You run the spring from the switch to break and when you press the break the break light will signal. Also it's way cheaper.
Where did you guys order from and How do you like the tao tao and grom clone so far? I'm trying to decide between the Apollo rfz-19, Orion street legal 125cc, and Tao Tao 140cc 🤔
Go with the ORION ...trust me .
Hey I have the Tao Tao db17( the 125ccversion) and ive always wanted to street legal it, but I can’t even figure out how to wire everything. You think you could help me out? Thanks
Did u figure it out?
Great job God bless you guys
how do you work the blinkers
?
Smart people are cool to leisure with...
Street legal keep you and your homies tight...
Stay fresh.
What size was that banjo bolt
So for the brake light is the link in the description the right size or is it the one you bought?
I’m wondering the same thing 🤔
How did you get the horn to work? I have the same parts as you but the two green wires from the switch don't do anything when I connect them to the horn.
Then your connection is not complete. The wires on the are neither + or - they are neutral. The horn also has neutral pins. Try from button to horn, from horn to negative on battery and from + on battery back to switch. If that combo doesn't work try another way but keep connection complete
The link to wiring kit isn’t working anymore any suggestions
when you were testing for the power wire, you could see your test light getting brighter as he revved it. You had to figure the voltage was increasing.
That's why it's most important during this video to use a 4 pin voltage regulator from Tao Tao on Amazon.
Quick question I have the same bike but I want the back rims or tire to be a bit bigger the back stock tires are 90/100 14 what would you recommend for something a lil bit bigger?
i got the same bike i put a 16 inch
16 inch back tire and 19 inch front tire. Apollo did it on a 125cc and didnt modify their frame and swingarm either. Thats what im gonna do. Itll fit and give you a bit more height definitely
How’s the bike? still running?
So does this bike come with VIN number... and also who check your bike to make sure you have all lights etc wh give the paper so you can register it
ya comes with the vin
Can i do the same thing on the 125cc db17 version ?
illest mortal yes
You definitely can. If you can't find the power source with your original stator and harness you may need to change your stator and wire harness.
What bolt thread did that banjo bolt end up being? 10x1.0 or 10x1.25
I would guess 1.25. Those Chinese bikes always have the 1.25 from what I have experienced
What aftermarket led is that?
Where did u get the bike
Also if I did everything all these light and got it approved to register it... do i still need my bike driver licenses?
Yeah dude, unless you don't wanna ride on the streets.
I just bough the same bike & I want to make it street legal all I need to know is the size of the banjo bolt that fits correctly, thanks
There is a switch you can order from motopartsmax that you can use without tapping the back brake. Its the taomoto gy6 front frake switch i used it on mine the already a spot for it on the front brake just srews on and is really easy to wire in
maybe I’ll consider that so I don’t have to touch my brakes
@@thelongranger55 Correct size is M10 x 1.25 pitch
How does it run with the stock carb? great vid!
It bogs with the stock carb. Well it does in the New England East coast elevation. I'm not sure about other states though. I replaced my carb with a NIBBI and it really woke it up.
Micscience thanks 👊🏾
Micscience I’m about to buy this bike tomorrow online , but I want to buy a new carburetor right away , so can you please tell me the size of the Carb I will need please thanks a lot !
The LongRanger i bought a new carb right away mine needed a new carb new stater right off the bat
Raptor Rider that sucks
What size is the hydraulic brake light switch ? there are 4 or 5 sizes ?
I need m8 size but I dont think they exist?
Do you need to register this in California for it to be street legal? Or does it meet the requirements to ride on the street without a plate?
I have a 5 wire regulator rectifier where would the 5th wire go to which is black?
sorry for my english this is for one phase alternator and the five wire regulator you have is for three phase regulator that regulator should have three same colour wires which you gona conect to the three phase alternator and the other two should have diferent colour one is ground and the second one is power one which you gona conect to batery or the wire system you have on bike
www.quadprofi.cz/e-shop/cs/content/12-jak-zapojit-regulator-quad-atv
So No Battery Install Required?
Tko Gameing 0485 It already has a battery
@@alexp4903 no it doesn't
should push the two ends of wire into each other, twist slightly, solder, and cover with shrink tubing.
That would be a weak connection. A proper splice is stronger than a soldered splice. Sorry I know you are not gonna take this nicely but I had to say it.
@@Micscience oooh do tell! Kindly explain what a "proper splice" is.
@@Micscience Evaluation of Tensile and Shear Strengths of the Copper/Solder Interface Assuming that the interface of the copper wire and solder is composed of the side and bottom surfaces of the cylindrical end of the copper wire, the maximum load, Fmax, is given by the sum of the tensile and shear strengths of copper/solder interface as follows: Fmax = πd2 4 pRσf + πdlRτf (1) where σf and τf are the tensile and shear interface strengths, d is the diameter of the copper wire, and pR and lR are the fraction of the actual bonded area to the total area on the bottom surface and the actual bond length evaluated using the binary image, respectively. Here, the relationship between Fmax and lR can be expressed by: Fmax = F0 +blR (2) as was shown in Figure 12, where F0 (= 8.79 N) and b (= 13.96 N/mm) are determined from the intercept of Fmax-axis and the slope of the approximated line, respectively. Comparing Equations (1) and (2), we can assume that pR = 1, σf = 124.4 MPa, and τf = 14.8 MPa are obtained. It was confirmed by SEM observation that the actual bonded area on the bottom surface of the copper wire is about 1, independent of the specimen. The value of the tensile interface strength is a little high in comparison with the other results (σf = 50 to 90 MPa) obtained for similar lead-free solders and copper[9,10],andthatoftheshearinterfacestrengthislowerthanthepreviousresult(τf =40MPa)[11]. The constraint of plastic deformation at the bottom surface of the copper wire [12,13], the size and shape of the specimens, and the data dispersion (which will be described below) may be the reason for these differences. In order to investigate the effect of data dispersion on the evaluation of the interface strength, two parallel lines passing through the points most distant from the straight line given by Equation (2) are considered, as shown in Figure 12. The tensile interface strengths evaluated by these lines are 153.3 MPaand99.0MPa,respectively. Sincethetwolineshavethesameinclination,theshearinterface strength does not change. If an accurate value of the interface strength or its distribution is required, a large number of pullout tests are necessary, and the microstructures of the solder and copper wire as well as their change near the copper/solder interface should be investigated [14,15]. Finally, the strength of the copper wire/solder joint is schematically shown in Figure 13. A red chain-line shows the shear strength of the copper/solder interface. The strength increases with the actual bond length, lR, and its intercept of Fmax-axis becomes the tensile strength of the copper/solder interfaceonthebottomsurfaceofthecopperwire,becausenobondedareaexistsonthesidesurfaceof the copper wire when lR = 0. A blue-chain line shows the tensile strength of the copper wire, which is
Crystals 2017, 7, 255 9 of 10
obtained by the tensile test of the copper wire without the solder joint. Here, the transition length, lR*, is defined as the intersection of shear and tensile strength lines. When the actual bond length of the copper wire/solder joint is less than lR*, the interface strength is governed by the shear strength of the copper/solder interface. On the other hand, when lR is larger than lR*, the joint is strong enough and the copper wire becomes fractured at the tensile strength of the copper wire before the pullout of the copper wire. This relationship is useful for the determination of the geometry of the copper wire and solder in an actual electric package. Crystals 2017, 7, 255 9 of 10
the copper wire/solder joint is less than lR*, the interface strength is governed by the shear strength of the copper/solder interface. On the other hand, when lR is larger than lR*, the joint is strong enough and the copper wire becomes fractured at the tensile strength of the copper wire before the pullout of the copper wire. This relationship is useful for the determination of the geometry of the copper wire and solder in an actual electric package.
Taken from the published article
Evaluation of Thin Copper Wire and Lead-Free
Solder Joint Strength by Pullout Tests and Wire
Surface Observation
Naoya Tada * ID , Takuhiro Tanaka, Takeshi Uemori and Toshiya Nakata
Graduate School of Natural Science and Technology, Okayama University, Okayama 700-8530, Japan;
pkl893lm@s.okayama-u.ac.jp (T.T.); uemori@okayama-u.ac.jp (T.U.); tnakata@okayama-u.ac.jp (T.N.)
* Correspondence: tada@okayama-u.ac.jp
Academic Editor: Arkady Zhukov
Received: 13 July 2017; Accepted: 18 August 2017; Published: 20 August 2017
@@percussion44 Yep you did get mad......
I don't know why you pasted that evaluation it is still irrelevant to what I said' (" Evaluation of Tensile and Shear Strengths of the Copper/Solder Interface") key part would be: ("Assuming that the interface of the copper wire and solder is composed of the side and bottom surfaces of the cylindrical end of the copper wire")
The splice I'm talking about is all composed with the side of the copper wire. Some what like a the letter T. Maybe I shouldn't have said the word proper and maybe stronger but still you shouldn't get worked about it man.
@@Micscience Worked up? hardly, The evaluation shows that given sufficient bond length between the solder matrix and copper strand the copper solder junction becomes the weak point were the copper strands can break.
Point being the soldered wire connection is not "weak" and it would take a large force to pull the wires apart and break the junction. This is a low power pit bike application. In some accident or incident were an object with sufficient force has entered the bikes frame and broken the connection in a headlight setup, such a break is probably of little concern in the overall calamity.
Whats your insurance under? A moped ?
What size banjo bolt exactly .?
The LongRanger the banjo bolt three pitch is M10 x 1.25. Hope this helps you out .
Brz Rage thanks man , I’m gunna what you did for the street legal kit , I also ordered a nibbi pwk26 carburetor for it so she will rip hard
What the right Brake light banjo bolt size?
MegaAngleface m10-1.25
Get a break light switch with a spring. Its cheaper and you will not have the thread issue
Rectifier?
Hey brother give me a message, I need serious help to making my bike street legal. Need lights on mine
Fazzle
Bro in my country it’s worth like 2500 dollars with shipping
hi bro
i am gona tell you it is not so good how you wire it becouse it does not have constant voltage even after you put there the regulator, you could see it in the end when you started it, problem is simple it is not goodfor the electronic in bike, how to solve it? easy put there some small batery something like this one Shorai APP14A2-BS12 Phantom Black Small 12V 14Ah
and i am sorry for my english
You are right.
I’d just pay somebody at this point to do this conversion lol The money and time your spending on a $890 pit bike just isn’t worth it. In Md they would just pull you over and put you in cuffs haha
Would have been better to run a small battery cause the lights are just all flashing
You have to turn up your idle to compensate for your lights using up energy. And the flickering is from the camera
1,300 for a knock off grom??🤣 You can get a real one brand new fo that much
Groms are $3300 MSRP. Knockoffs you can get delivered to your door for around $1100 to $1200.
3000 for a Grom?! For that ill buy a used motorcycle. Groms are over rated. Chinese all day.