Just FINALLY signed up as a $5 a month supporter… After watching FREE for 5? years..? Feel like a “free loader” who finally knows this couple is an INVESTMENT for my benefit …. Quality PEOPLE!
I have worked with automotive a/c systems for 20+ years, very simple explanation. A couple of things to consider: the size of your condenser should be proportional to the size of the evaporator. In adding the water cooled condenser to your system, you did mention that you would be running the fan, or pumping water, but there is a misconception that bigger (more) is better. Customers often state that they need more Freon added to a system when it’s not blowing cold, and I have seen systems overcharged 2 fold when the problem is no air flow across the condenser. Because pressure and temperature are proportional, using a temp gauge is another way to diagnose an a/c system. There should be somewhere around a 20 degree (freedom height) drop across the condenser. So, 180 ish going in, 160 ish coming out basically. Same principle applies for the evaporator proportionally speaking, albeit in reverse. So, 32 going in, and somewhere around 45 coming out ideally. It’s one way to determine if your condenser to evaporator sizing is proportional for your compressor to be most efficient. I haven’t watched all your videos yet, and maybe you have like a 201 or 301 class on a/c theory that goes more into this.
As a hvac tech I pressurize the unit with nitrogen and little freon to find leaks and braze it instead of using flair when you cut the lines open you need to replace filter drier. Also flow some nitrogen when you braze so you don't need to deal with carbon pieces ending up in metering device.
Thanks, all good ideas but as an amateur with limited space for tools and such I have to cut corners. No room for another gas bottle. Sounds like a useful approach though. I've actually found that a long time on vacuum "refreshes" driers. Anyway I've taken systems that had iced cap tubes and fixed them with a few hours of vacuum. Do what we must with what we have.
Agree on eliminating as many flair fittings as possible. I don’t have removable joints in any system unless required by a component. If brazing it should be nitrogen purged. When soldering nitrogen purge is not required. I prefer soldering lead free silver bearing and as a portion of the industry consider it a better choice than brazing.
Thanks Clark, another great DIY video! I'm an engineer (electronics) but refrigeration was one area that was always a mystery. Thanks for showing just how simple it is!...and great camera work Emily :-)
Refrigeration is unbelievably simple compared to electronics especially when you start getting into RF the hardest thing in refrigeration is a safe and practical refrigerant
Though the Universe operates on "neat" and orderly principles, looking out at it, sure looks like there's a LOT of sht out there...sure looks "cluttered" to me. 😎
Yes and Albert Einstein started a fridge company but although supposedly efficient on paper the motor sounded like a a bag of spanners! Thanks for the comments.
Hi Clark I noticed when you flip the unit up on that side the condenser was completely covered with dust and debris. You might want to mention that since you have it out you should thoroughly clean that to increase the airflow. That in and of itself will give you a boost to refrigeration.
Clark, You guys are REMARKABLE teachers.. Elkhart Lake in Wisconsin is a beautiful little village & near ROAD AMERICA Road Racetrack… The most beautiful road track in America…
Loved the “back to back” videos - theory followed by practical. I’m originally an engineer so I love this stuff. Thanks for putting it out there Clark.
Wow! So many parts used in so many different applications. I didn't completely understand the condenser until you showed it. Home brewers will know that as a counter-flow chiller. Hot wort in the inner tube. Cold tap water in the outer tube. Wort flows one direction; water flows the other. Heat transfers quickly. My 40' garden hose/copper tube version takes hot wort from near boiling to 75°F in a single pass.
Oh, I felt sorry for you - heavy breathing and all. Hope you're better now. Thanks for a great informative video. I didn't know it was possible to combine air- and water cooled compressing - or whatever you call it. It's genious. Thanks!
Flare kit - cool tool! Similar to manual swaging tools. Your video almost made me order one just to have ... just in case ... but I resisted the urge. You said the flare sealing goop "Keeps tigers away" - love it - gonna steal that expression.
It would be great if you guys could name these 3 parts with pt1 pt2 etc :) got recommended your videos as my freezer Is playing up took a minute to find the right order :) thank you i now understand how a fridge works!
This playlist might solve that problem. Please pass it around to anyone else that might benefit. A/C and Refrigeration: czcams.com/play/PLsT7_jPsZM5qNlstuF-fdlgjrimo18tq7.html
Clark, On SV Kismet we use a water condenser for our fridge, but it is plumbed to a pump circulating water from our port fresh water tank. No debris/ water quality issues, plus no salt water corrosion. As we have three fresh water tanks, the port tank is the last one we use. Love the videos, Mike.
My fridge isn’t getting cold. I suspect it needs Freon but who knows. I followed this and the last vid. Very informative and I understood everything you said. I still can’t fix a fridge lol. Maybe if you went over the gas temp thing some more and I reviewed the component testing again….maybe. Still. Good vids
Please tell me you have been a fridge designer in a past life. Incidentally Albert Einstein started a fridge company but their product was too noisy. Enjoyed the creativity keep the wires tidy
You may be the only man I have seen be able to tackle this issue out of all my boat channels. Combined with you electrical skill I am impressed. I did want to mention that filter driers have a lifetime. I have seen them leak at the inlet because they have become saturated and/or plugged. This increases the pressure at the inlet port and it then leaks. Typically they last about ten years in any application..but that varies. On most service calls for this leaking issue regarding heat pumps they are typically replaced by the tech.
Thanks a lot, that was nice of you to say. This one was passing refrigerant fine, I had a high pressure gage on it before. But good to know for future problems. I ended up removing the old dryer and soldering in a locally available dryer (not much of a filter by the feel of it). I left that out of the video as it would just have been to much. Must have had a flaw someplace, maybe on its side of the flare fitting. New one is in and working so I'm happy. Food is cold and pressure is still up after 3 weeks.
Yeah, and I had to solder a flare into the dryer as I'm set up with flare going into my box. The dryer I had was way overkill for a system this size anyway.
When I was a pipefitter( union plumber) I loved using Rigid 101 imp cutters. Like your small cutter but could cut up to 1"copper. Also could keepa spare cutting wheel in the handle. Really nice tool.
Nice! Thanks for this. I am an electrical and software engineer who also has done a lot of copper pipe soldering plumbing, some flair fittings for propane gas lines but I have never tried to fix an air conditioner or fridge. Good to see someone do this!
Constructive criticism: using plumbing solder on a refrigeration system is a no no, it needs to be brazed or silver soldered. Also pulling a vacuum is not the proper way to check for leaks, it's equivalent of minus 15 psi & the system on the high side runs pressures of 150 psi plus. Respect to your efforts.
Thanks. I'm feeling much better lately. This was filmed weeks ago. I literally left my sickbed to fix and film this. Then went back. Had to edit out the coughing spells. I hadn't moved in so long my back muscles were killing me. The sweat is from heat but also pain.
A very well explained how to video with easy concepts, as an engineer I enjoy quick but efficient fixes..as well as quick and dirty fixes..get the job done. You have a very down to earth approach to tackling an issue. Thank you...John
Good knowledge of refrigeration and vac to remove air and moisture. Using lead solder is bad practice and not used to join fridge pipes under pressure together . But needs must I suppose. In the UK we have to legally recover any refrigerant before doing such a procedure for environmental laws in Europe . If we were caught it carries a potential £50,000 fine and 10 years in prison. I can see from the blue disposable cylinder you are using R134A. Might want to add a foot note to your video to know what refrigerant is in your system. Especially now a lot of new gasses the Europe such as R600 is propane and therefore flammable. A s i have seen in other US based videos . They are still using R22 , which has been illegal to use for over 15 years, due to being linked to causing a hole in the Ozone layer. Very good knowledge of a refrigeration system. I suspect you have knowledge from working in the industry, especially with the tools you were using,
Andrew, No never worked professionally as a fridge guy. I'm a retired engineer though. As you say "needs be". Wish I could use hotter solder but, it's just not practical for me to carry oxygen. I've had few soldering failures over the years. And I bet the failures I've had were due to poor technique on my part. I'd like to capture and re process but out here, can't. If I went to a local fridge shop they would just vent. You might find this interesting. czcams.com/video/xF113aUlZgo/video.html. I'm kinda proud of it. Works surprisingly well an rediculusly low power.
Clark I don’t think you could see it because of your ventilation shroud covering it but your condenser was caked with dirt and that was likely obstructing most of the airflow across it. That is costing you a lot of amp hours! Very helpful video and I am interested to see how you plumb in the seawater circulation part of the system. I have heard that they are problematic to maintain as you mentioned. Thanks Ben S/V DAWN
You're welcome Ben. Yes I saw that. Brushed right off. You might notice in this weekend's video that the tape is now yellow from reattaching the shroud. You have a sharp eye! Yes I go into that in this week's video. It's on Patreon now but will be generally available this weekend I expect. The last saltwater condenser lasted about 25 years but it got grown up in barnacles a few times and I had to acid wash them out. But all in all lasted a long time. The one I replaced was replaced partly because I wanted a larger saltwater passage. I share a pump with that and the ac unit. Pump runs when either compressor is running. The old one was a restriction to the water flow.
I think SeaFrost up in New Hampshire would make a whole freezer box if asked (though, of course, not as cheaply as you making it yourself !😲..awesome, way to go !)...he makes every stainless steel cold plate custom to the installation, and asks for your specific dimensions for every order, so I wouldn't be surprised if he'd do a custom box instead of just a cold plate.
I'm surprised anyone is using cold plates anymore. Their time has passed. They only make sense for an engine driven compressor. But are inherently in-efecient and needlessly use up valuable space. Evaporator boxes are actually harder to manufacture then cold plates. Hence the DIY look of mine and the expensive materials. But someone looking should make a call.
Excellent, excellent, information. Best video and most useful I have seen in quite awhile. $600 charge for a "reversing valve" bypass in Puerto Rico on an AC unit. Solder drips all over the pipes by the tech, super sketchy conglomeration of parts- but it does work now. I will be buying and carrying the tools you recommend to fix it myself in the future. I did notice that nothing I have has a freon charge port similar to my car AC unit. I am guessing I will need to solder one in someday maybe?
Cars use special ports. Fridges use 1/4 flares with a schrader valve inside. Same as a car tire. Pretty universal except for the gas in a lot of mini splits, I forget the number just now. But there is an adapter for that. More on that next week.
@@EmilyAndClark Great looking forward to next week then. This series is covering a lot if stuff I gave been trying to learn last couple if years, before buying the boat..
Thanks Clark (and Emily for documenting), i have a couple of old A/C units on my boat that still use R-12 which is getting hard to find especially considering price. One still works but is on it's last legs. These are split systems and I'm considering replacing with all in ones. Your explanations and videos will make it easier for me to understand and trouble shoot in the future.
I replaced the gas in an old r-12 porsche back in 2003 with R134a. Some say you can't do it. Some say you need to flush and change the lube. I just changed the gas (and fittings). Has been working for enough years in Florida I'm saying it's fine.
This was great. Thanks. In your nest video please point out how and where to add charging nipples for fridges and freezers that are shipped without these and precharged from the factory. I’m talking about fridges like Novacool fully self contained units that simply drop in and only require power. 😊 👍
It never occurred to me to put a water condenser in series with an air blast condenser. Thanks. I'd love to know the details of the water flow when you hook that in.
I'm not sure what you mean by lamp. The bd35f controller has a place to connect an LED that, as you say, blinks to explain failure states. Please describe where the lamp contact is
@@EmilyAndClark On the Webasto Wiring Diagram of the BD35F, the incandescent lamp connects to A and C terminals as Item 10 "Lamp". The Webasto pino-out, top to bottom is L N - + FACDCPT ( L&N are 100-1240VAC power , 12VDC is on + & - ) That diagram shows the LED connected to + and D. If y0u don't know/use a LAMP, I'll assume it's not important ( Experience appreciated !)- THANKS !!
amazing video , thank you , blessings i am getting more into the whole system now , and how to do , to make , to fix , even with the right tools i needed to see what is going on . Happyness for you and your Wife , Clark and Emily
Clark. Do you have a link for the saltwater condenser? Thanks! Getting ready to replace the dead compressor on our boat and would like to plumb one in while we are at it. Great videos! From knots to nuts & bolts, we appreciate them all.
I have some crazy great titanium ones I use with my battery AC units. But for copper Nickel you need to search to find a good price. RParts.com has things like this.
@@EmilyAndClark Perfect! We will save up for the fancy titanium one when we install the AC unit. I found several copper/copper condensers but the copper/nickel is just what I was looking for. Thanks again.
Thanks for these videos, just what I was looking for! Was just doing some follow up Google-fu and it looks like the BD35F and BD50F are discontinued by Danfoss. Secop are releasing a BD Nano which apparently replaces them. I'd love your thoughts on this as information about these doesn't seem easy to find, and parts I'm seeing have wildly different prices. With no background on the subject it's hard to work out what's what. I was looking to buy some parts and test building a fridge which will later become spares.
Danfoss sold out to secop years ago. They still make the bd series I believe. Yes lots of things have inflated lately. I get most of my stuff on eBay. Hope you watch our other videos and choose to subscribe
@@EmilyAndClark Thanks for the quick reply. Yes already subscribed and started binge watching instead of work this afternoon! Inflation I get, but these things range from £100 to £1100 for the compressor and/or controller and seems completely arbitary. I was hoping to find a shop in the UK but finding the BD35F and BD50F discontinued it was a hard process since most suppliers of fridge stuff don't stock the 12V ones and without the current part name I couldn't search for the part. I'm making progress though, it seems the BD Micro and BD Nano are their new versions and helpful to know it's the same company. I really thought the hard part would be re-gassing but from your video that looks way easier than buying parts in the UK! I feel well on the way to succeeding with this now so thanks again.
Glad to hear it. I read ALL comments so tell me how it goes with the new compressor. Will you use 134a or iso-butane? The butane can go boom if it leaks.
@@EmilyAndClark will do! 134a probably, although that will only happen if I successfully assemble the bits and pull a vacuum. The existing boat fridge is working fine so plenty of time to practice :)
Thanks for this video, Clark. On a boat, out in the middle of nowhere, you need to be a jack of all trades. Professionals sometimes are nowhere to be found or are so busy that they never get around to doing the small jobs on boats as they have to take care of their commercial clients first. What solder were you using? Any need for special solder for high pressure?
Take a look in the description. I put an amazon link to the kind of thing I use. I don't care to carry o2 so I can't use the high temp stuff. I've not really had any problems that didn't lead back to my soldering technique. I used to get carbon in my joint back when.
I have used the last one for over 20 years. Really helps in hit places. Makes little difference when it below 80 or so. I think the last one corroded through. My sniffer found some gas in the water side. So I removed it several months ago. But 20 years of saltwater service, I'm no complaining. The new one has a larger saltwater pipe. Same as the ac unit so I can run water serially through both with the one pump.
Hello Clark thank you for all your great videos. Really gave me the nerve to start my refrigeration system rebuild. I was wondering about your diy evaporator. What size tubing did you use and how many feet? Roughly. I think I might build my own but can’t seem to figure out tubing size and length. I have a Danfoss bd50f.
Thanks. I have the same compressor. I'm doing the camper trip so I'm not at the boat. So no specifics available. I made a box from a ss shelf and copper sheet. I wrapped the box in 3/16(?? Size below 1/4) tubing, soldering it as well as I could. Probably 50 feet or just a bit less. I then run to some 1/4" under the shelf then back to the compressor. The tricky part is you need to calculate your capillary tubing size and length. The cooling tube isn't critical.
@@EmilyAndClark That's awesome. Thank you for getting back so quickly. I have an old aluminum evaporator that ended up with a hole in it. I was planning on using the old cap tube as nothing is wrong with it and its copper. So assuming nothing changes with the cap length do you think i will have to recalculate if the cooling tube is different in length but the cap remains the same for the system? I've looked around for how to calculate but haven't found anything about it yet. Also did you solder or braze?
Cap tube is matched with compressor. If you are using the same compressor you will be fine. I just use silver solder and a propane torch. Always worked fine for me.
Hi Clark, my adler barbour cu-100 cold machine (older model) has only one port sticking out from the top of the compressor. Refrigerant leaked when trying to cut through the fiber glass, and now I need to flair the 3/8 inch tube to seal the leak and then vacuum the system. I have all the equipment, but I am confused which hose to connect to the only port available. Can I connect the blue hose, open that valve, maintain the red hose valve closed, and connect the yellow hose to the vacuum in order to vacuum the system? If not, will I need to solder a new access port on the either the low or high pressure lines? Once I do that, filling with refrigerant using the same port will be a breeze following your video. Any help would be greatly appreciated :-)
I'm curious what you think of the holding plate systems vs evaporator systems. I've looked at the CoolBlue fridge from Technautics and they talk about an thermal expansion valve and a larger condenser as making their unit more efficient. Just wanted to get your take on this or if it just makes more sense to go with the standard evaporator/design from one of the other guys.
Holding plates only make sense for engine driven systems from the 70s. We have crazy efficient brushless DC motor driven compressors like the bd-50f nowadays. You should store your energy in batteries and make cold as you need it. I'm not going into detail here but trust me evaporator!!! Expansion valves are better but in a refrigerator/freezer setup a cap tube is plenty efficient if its gas is charged right.
@@EmilyAndClark Thanks. We have an old Alder Barbour DCM-12 that still runs on R12 refrigerant from around 1996. It still works, but I'm considering replacing with somethign that has a variable speed compressor as getting R12 can be a bit challenging and R134a is way more available.
@@EmilyAndClark I think it's an older BD2.5 compressor based on the control unit onboard. I can't see any markings on the compressor. It's a constant speed unit, so I think one of the newer ones would improve efficiency. Just trying to keep ti running a few more months until we are in a convenient place to replace. I'm wondering if swapping out the compressor and control unit makes sense or whether we should just replace the entire thing.
Clark, I like your videos and they have been helpful but when I went to my galley fridge aboard my Jeanneau 58 I found I can’t check the pressure nor fill the system if I found it needed because my yellow manifold hose does not depress the valve on the Schrader valve. My kit works great when I charge cars but on this fridge it doesn’t open the valve. My fridge stopped getting cold and here in Annapolis where im surrounded marine repair companies it’s now summer season and they are all booked solid for over a month. Any help would be appreciated . Sv Padraigin II Capt Rich
Look in the end of the hose. See the flat brass thing? Grab it with needle nose pliers and unscrew it. It will stand just a bit higher. That is the Schrader valve depressor. It's adjustable.
Links please. ;-) You have a link to everything except the air condenser, compressor, fan, tubing used on your build on the sled and in the fridge around your box.
Sorry everything is just too expensive and seldom available on Amazon. I can't recommend anything there. Go to Rparts.com. It's all there. Also eBay has deals a lot but links don't last.
Yes it concerned me as well. But I really didn't want to carry oxygen so I tried it. First time was 25 years ago. I've had about 3 solder failures in all these years. With my soldering skills I'd chalk them up to operator error. Yes, in short I'd recommend the low temperature stuff.
Great video. I've got a quick question regarding my Frigoboat keel cooler system. System is 21 years old, I've had it filled a couple of times over the last 11 years. When I bought the boat (11 years old) the compressor didn't work. I changed the controller and everything worked fine. Now suddenly, when I turned the system on after being off during the winter, the controller fuse blew (controller is about 7 years old at this point) . I replaced the fuse with it blowing immediately. Question: could this be a frozen compressor causing the fuse to blow or just a bad controller? Would like an educated guess before forking out another 300€ for a new controller. Thanks in advance.
Also. If it does you can remove the water from the dryer by vacuuming it for a very long time But often they are just replaced as they don't cost much. I usually long vacuum a suspect dryer because when you are out cruising parts are an issue but time isn't.
Up to a point bigger evaporators are better as they can exchange heat with less fan power. I use one rated for like 10,000 BTUs. It also depends a bit on expansion valve or cap tube.
thanks for the great video, just what i needed! i have those parker ' one shot' fittings , that dont match, i got two for the evap side i have to solder on. do you think i should just remove them and put in flares? hope you get well soon. cant wait for the gas vid ! sv blondie
You're very welcome. As you can see my sled requires me to go upside down and backwards to work on it so I used flares. If yours is easier to get to I'd just solder the lines together. There is a tool that I recommend. You see it in the vid for about a second but it's in the tool list in the description. It opens up the tubing do you can put one tube in another. Makes soldering easier and cheaper then buying fittings. But yes, those connectors that keep the gas back leak eventually. Flare is better in my opinion if you are opening the system.
Wow that's real gear. The Chinese units I can afford don't last long. How could I pass up the chance to have professional gear. Would you facebook message me? I'll send you a US address. Facebook link in the description.
as a refrigeration engineer I wonder if this is really a project that an amateur should do ..... you have to be certified for it (this applies in any case for europe, especially in the Netherlands) and that is not for nothing (refrigerants and especially the older ones such as r12 are not very good for the environment)
being profissional/amateur its a mindset. if you know your shit (whatever it is) then you are certified to do it. ive seen "amateurs" doing brilliant jobs and profissionals fucking it up big time.
assuming that a professional performs his job properly, there will be minimal loss of refrigerants. (= is better for the ozone layer) i'm really in favor of diy but for some activities that just isn't possible .... or do you let yourself be operated by the neighbor who is a car mechanic? For example, you were on the way, but you also forgot a few essential steps ..... after vacuuming you should have had to pressurize the installation with N2, in order to simulate, the operating pressures (about 275psi), Then vacuum again.
Hi Mark. I assure you that no one working "professionally" here owns a bottle on N2. Professional mechanics here work under a tree in their front yard and use vice grips and hammers. It's a different world.
@@markschraven7972 you are comparing 2 different situations. having a mechanic operating on somebody doesnt work. its simple. its not about being right or wrong its about working/ not working. or whats beneficial/ not beneficial. the only reason why no one can self study on medical sciences and have a shot at it, its because somebody somewhere rule that out. the same way ppl get ruled out of being a pilot by having a smal dot in their eye, which may not even affect them, and they could be a good pilot, but somebody somewhere rule it out, so the guy is out. too much rules, too less shots for ppl to try it out, if you ask me. Now, it seems that Clark got the damn thing working again. so to come full circle on my view: it works. let it be. it appears (i might be wrong) that you equate being profissional to not making mistakes. which is also easily verifiable as untrue. why? cause we humans, mistakes are part of us. professional or not. peace.
Do not be crazy! How many people can fix their own car?? And this is the same. I would rather buy a new unit. I know you are smart but sometimes its better to keep it for yourself!!
Real men fix their own stuff. It's not showing off, I live this way. Strive to be more, don't try to bring others down to your level. You will be happier. This modern victim-hood irks me. It's not doing anyone any favors, especially you.
@@EmilyAndClark Opss.. the real men i know they usually have to go to work to feed the family. Not even time to take holiday. And yes if i can fix something i can try but in most cases no. So i have to buy new stuff. Not everybody can live like you... Honor to work!!
Again a victim. Men take personal responsibility. Men don't find "sour grapes" in the achievements of others. You talk like I was given my position. I worked hard and earned it. I learned how things worked and used that to help save so I could live this life. czcams.com/video/9XK5ocXPhTg/video.html
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Just FINALLY signed up as a $5 a month supporter… After watching FREE for 5? years..? Feel like a “free loader” who finally knows this couple is an INVESTMENT for my benefit …. Quality PEOPLE!
Thank you Stephen
I have worked with automotive a/c systems for 20+ years, very simple explanation. A couple of things to consider: the size of your condenser should be proportional to the size of the evaporator. In adding the water cooled condenser to your system, you did mention that you would be running the fan, or pumping water, but there is a misconception that bigger (more) is better. Customers often state that they need more Freon added to a system when it’s not blowing cold, and I have seen systems overcharged 2 fold when the problem is no air flow across the condenser. Because pressure and temperature are proportional, using a temp gauge is another way to diagnose an a/c system. There should be somewhere around a 20 degree (freedom height) drop across the condenser. So, 180 ish going in, 160 ish coming out basically. Same principle applies for the evaporator proportionally speaking, albeit in reverse. So, 32 going in, and somewhere around 45 coming out ideally. It’s one way to determine if your condenser to evaporator sizing is proportional for your compressor to be most efficient. I haven’t watched all your videos yet, and maybe you have like a 201 or 301 class on a/c theory that goes more into this.
Thanks
You might find this playlists interesting:
A/C and Refrigeration: czcams.com/play/PLsT7_jPsZM5qNlstuF-fdlgjrimo18tq7.html
As a hvac tech I pressurize the unit with nitrogen and little freon to find leaks and braze it instead of using flair when you cut the lines open you need to replace filter drier. Also flow some nitrogen when you braze so you don't need to deal with carbon pieces ending up in metering device.
Thanks, all good ideas but as an amateur with limited space for tools and such I have to cut corners. No room for another gas bottle. Sounds like a useful approach though.
I've actually found that a long time on vacuum "refreshes" driers. Anyway I've taken systems that had iced cap tubes and fixed them with a few hours of vacuum.
Do what we must with what we have.
@@spangenbob You can get a special filter for when the compressor has burnt out. A "Burn out Filter". I absorbs the vapour from the burnt insulation.
Agree on eliminating as many flair fittings as possible. I don’t have removable joints in any system unless required by a component. If brazing it should be nitrogen purged. When soldering nitrogen purge is not required. I prefer soldering lead free silver bearing and as a portion of the industry consider it a better choice than brazing.
Thanks Clark, another great DIY video! I'm an engineer (electronics) but refrigeration was one area that was always a mystery. Thanks for showing just how simple it is!...and great camera work Emily :-)
Refrigeration is unbelievably simple compared to electronics especially when you start getting into RF the hardest thing in refrigeration is a safe and practical refrigerant
Albert Einstein Quote: “If a cluttered desk is a sign of a cluttered mind, of what, then, is an empty desk a sign?” Great Video! Thanks!
Good one.
Though the Universe operates on "neat" and orderly principles, looking out at it, sure looks like there's a LOT of sht out there...sure looks "cluttered" to me. 😎
Yes and Albert Einstein started a fridge company but although supposedly efficient on paper the motor sounded like a a bag of spanners! Thanks for the comments.
I laughed at this even though as I sit here my desk is empty....haha.
Anything that gets us closer to the DIY low power A/C is a good thing.
Hi Clark I noticed when you flip the unit up on that side the condenser was completely covered with dust and debris. You might want to mention that since you have it out you should thoroughly clean that to increase the airflow. That in and of itself will give you a boost to refrigeration.
I was wondering if anyone would see that. Good eyes, or monitor!
Yeah, I was amazed at how much crap was in there. Brushed right off.
@@EmilyAndClark The rule of thumb is that for every 1°C you can bring the evap. and condensing temperatures together you save 3% on compressor power.
Ohhhh we saw ;-P ! @@EmilyAndClark
Clark, You guys are REMARKABLE teachers.. Elkhart Lake in Wisconsin is a beautiful little village & near ROAD AMERICA Road Racetrack… The most beautiful road track in America…
That's the second vote for Elkhart
Do what we must with what we have. Thats good leaning.
Loved the “back to back” videos - theory followed by practical. I’m originally an engineer so I love this stuff. Thanks for putting it out there Clark.
Maybe the best marine repair channel out there. Thankyou!
So nice of you to say. Thank you.
Wow! So many parts used in so many different applications. I didn't completely understand the condenser until you showed it. Home brewers will know that as a counter-flow chiller. Hot wort in the inner tube. Cold tap water in the outer tube. Wort flows one direction; water flows the other. Heat transfers quickly. My 40' garden hose/copper tube version takes hot wort from near boiling to 75°F in a single pass.
Oh, I felt sorry for you - heavy breathing and all.
Hope you're better now.
Thanks for a great informative video. I didn't know it was possible to combine air- and water cooled compressing - or whatever you call it.
It's genious. Thanks!
Thanks, Yes I'm feeling much better now. Still weak from all the lying about but I'm getting out now and again. Building back up.
This guy can fix anything with simple solution, even without original parts.
Flare kit - cool tool! Similar to manual swaging tools. Your video almost made me order one just to have ... just in case ... but I resisted the urge.
You said the flare sealing goop "Keeps tigers away" - love it - gonna steal that expression.
Yep, I haven't had any tiger attacks since I bought that stuff!
It would be great if you guys could name these 3 parts with pt1 pt2 etc :) got recommended your videos as my freezer Is playing up took a minute to find the right order :) thank you i now understand how a fridge works!
This playlist might solve that problem. Please pass it around to anyone else that might benefit.
A/C and Refrigeration: czcams.com/play/PLsT7_jPsZM5qNlstuF-fdlgjrimo18tq7.html
Clark,
On SV Kismet we use a water condenser for our fridge, but it is plumbed to a pump circulating water from our port fresh water tank. No debris/ water quality issues, plus no salt water corrosion. As we have three fresh water tanks, the port tank is the last one we use.
Love the videos,
Mike.
Interesting.
My fridge isn’t getting cold. I suspect it needs Freon but who knows. I followed this and the last vid. Very informative and I understood everything you said. I still can’t fix a fridge lol. Maybe if you went over the gas temp thing some more and I reviewed the component testing again….maybe. Still. Good vids
You know I have a video just on recharging the fridge, right.
That's the one you need now.
Please tell me you have been a fridge designer in a past life. Incidentally Albert Einstein started a fridge company but their product was too noisy. Enjoyed the creativity keep the wires tidy
Nope, just a guy who always wanted to know how everything worked.
You may be the only man I have seen be able to tackle this issue out of all my boat channels. Combined with you electrical skill I am impressed. I did want to mention that filter driers have a lifetime. I have seen them leak at the inlet because they have become saturated and/or plugged. This increases the pressure at the inlet port and it then leaks. Typically they last about ten years in any application..but that varies. On most service calls for this leaking issue regarding heat pumps they are typically replaced by the tech.
Thanks a lot, that was nice of you to say.
This one was passing refrigerant fine, I had a high pressure gage on it before. But good to know for future problems.
I ended up removing the old dryer and soldering in a locally available dryer (not much of a filter by the feel of it). I left that out of the video as it would just have been to much. Must have had a flaw someplace, maybe on its side of the flare fitting. New one is in and working so I'm happy.
Food is cold and pressure is still up after 3 weeks.
Yeah, and I had to solder a flare into the dryer as I'm set up with flare going into my box.
The dryer I had was way overkill for a system this size anyway.
When I was a pipefitter( union plumber) I loved using Rigid 101 imp cutters. Like your small cutter but could cut up to 1"copper. Also could keepa spare cutting wheel in the handle. Really nice tool.
Nice! Thanks for this. I am an electrical and software engineer who also has done a lot of copper pipe soldering plumbing, some flair fittings for propane gas lines but I have never tried to fix an air conditioner or fridge. Good to see someone do this!
You're very welcome Herbert. Have you watched our Capable Cruisers Playlist? Lots of videos there you might also enjoy.
You're clearly a very savvy cruiser and I can see how you can cruise on $1,000 per month. Subscribed!!!
Constructive criticism: using plumbing solder on a refrigeration system is a no no, it needs to be brazed or silver soldered. Also pulling a vacuum is not the proper way to check for leaks, it's equivalent of minus 15 psi & the system on the high side runs pressures of 150 psi plus. Respect to your efforts.
One does what they must without oxygen or nitrogen
It's nice to see you are back on your feet Clark , But sounds like you not over it yet so get some rest and only short walks when off your boat .
Thanks. I'm feeling much better lately. This was filmed weeks ago. I literally left my sickbed to fix and film this. Then went back. Had to edit out the coughing spells.
I hadn't moved in so long my back muscles were killing me. The sweat is from heat but also pain.
A very well explained how to video with easy concepts, as an engineer I enjoy quick but efficient fixes..as well as quick and dirty fixes..get the job done. You have a very down to earth approach to tackling an issue. Thank you...John
Good knowledge of refrigeration and vac to remove air and moisture. Using lead solder is bad practice and not used to join fridge pipes under pressure together . But needs must I suppose. In the UK we have to legally recover any refrigerant before doing such a procedure for environmental laws in Europe . If we were caught it carries a potential £50,000 fine and 10 years in prison. I can see from the blue disposable cylinder you are using R134A. Might want to add a foot note to your video to know what refrigerant is in your system. Especially now a lot of new gasses the Europe such as R600 is propane and therefore flammable. A s i have seen in other US based videos . They are still using R22 , which has been illegal to use for over 15 years, due to being linked to causing a hole in the Ozone layer. Very good knowledge of a refrigeration system. I suspect you have knowledge from working in the industry, especially with the tools you were using,
Andrew,
No never worked professionally as a fridge guy. I'm a retired engineer though. As you say "needs be". Wish I could use hotter solder but, it's just not practical for me to carry oxygen. I've had few soldering failures over the years. And I bet the failures I've had were due to poor technique on my part.
I'd like to capture and re process but out here, can't. If I went to a local fridge shop they would just vent.
You might find this interesting. czcams.com/video/xF113aUlZgo/video.html. I'm kinda proud of it. Works surprisingly well an rediculusly low power.
Clark I don’t think you could see it because of your ventilation shroud covering it but your condenser was caked with dirt and that was likely obstructing most of the airflow across it. That is costing you a lot of amp hours! Very helpful video and I am interested to see how you plumb in the seawater circulation part of the system. I have heard that they are problematic to maintain as you mentioned. Thanks Ben S/V DAWN
You're welcome Ben. Yes I saw that. Brushed right off. You might notice in this weekend's video that the tape is now yellow from reattaching the shroud. You have a sharp eye!
Yes I go into that in this week's video. It's on Patreon now but will be generally available this weekend I expect.
The last saltwater condenser lasted about 25 years but it got grown up in barnacles a few times and I had to acid wash them out. But all in all lasted a long time. The one I replaced was replaced partly because I wanted a larger saltwater passage. I share a pump with that and the ac unit. Pump runs when either compressor is running. The old one was a restriction to the water flow.
I think SeaFrost up in New Hampshire would make a whole freezer box if asked (though, of course, not as cheaply as you making it yourself !😲..awesome, way to go !)...he makes every stainless steel cold plate custom to the installation, and asks for your specific dimensions for every order, so I wouldn't be surprised if he'd do a custom box instead of just a cold plate.
I'm surprised anyone is using cold plates anymore. Their time has passed. They only make sense for an engine driven compressor. But are inherently in-efecient and needlessly use up valuable space.
Evaporator boxes are actually harder to manufacture then cold plates. Hence the DIY look of mine and the expensive materials. But someone looking should make a call.
@24:48 You can see you're radiator is/was totally caked/clogged with dust!
Yep. Cleaned it later.
When a space is cluttered but you know where everything is and what everything is it is called organized chaos
"An untidy desk is the sign of an untidy mind"
"So what's an empty desk mean?"
Should I have made that reply to my then Boss?
Excellent, excellent, information. Best video and most useful I have seen in quite awhile. $600 charge for a "reversing valve" bypass in Puerto Rico on an AC unit. Solder drips all over the pipes by the tech, super sketchy conglomeration of parts- but it does work now. I will be buying and carrying the tools you recommend to fix it myself in the future. I did notice that nothing I have has a freon charge port similar to my car AC unit. I am guessing I will need to solder one in someday maybe?
Cars use special ports. Fridges use 1/4 flares with a schrader valve inside. Same as a car tire. Pretty universal except for the gas in a lot of mini splits, I forget the number just now. But there is an adapter for that.
More on that next week.
@@EmilyAndClark Great looking forward to next week then. This series is covering a lot if stuff I gave been trying to learn last couple if years, before buying the boat..
Thank you!
You're welcome Bill.
Thanks Clark (and Emily for documenting), i have a couple of old A/C units on my boat that still use R-12 which is getting hard to find especially considering price. One still works but is on it's last legs. These are split systems and I'm considering replacing with all in ones. Your explanations and videos will make it easier for me to understand and trouble shoot in the future.
I replaced the gas in an old r-12 porsche back in 2003 with R134a. Some say you can't do it. Some say you need to flush and change the lube. I just changed the gas (and fittings). Has been working for enough years in Florida I'm saying it's fine.
Awesome video. Thanks for demystifying refrigeration 👍
Very informative. Glad you are feeling better. Cheers.
This was great. Thanks. In your nest video please point out how and where to add charging nipples for fridges and freezers that are shipped without these and precharged from the factory. I’m talking about fridges like Novacool fully self contained units that simply drop in and only require power. 😊 👍
Good point. Also don't buy Novacool I guess.
@@EmilyAndClark good advice when buying new or replacing/upgrading, but in my case came with the boat.
There is something called a vampire fitting. I don't use them but with one you could (or someone else could) top off gas without opening the system.
It never occurred to me to put a water condenser in series with an air blast condenser. Thanks. I'd love to know the details of the water flow when you hook that in.
I'm making this weekend's video today. I'll talk about it.
looking forward to the AC video.
Copper might corroded by salt water. You might to check copper and salt water.
The only metal stat sees salt water is copper nickel.
What do you suggest using?
I wish I had a fraction of your ability. My lack of ability to fix things has always kept me close to home.
Fix one small thing.... It all starts there
Great video Clark, thanks for that! I also wish you a continuous recovery and that you get back to good health and strength!
Thanks Ralph
Thanks for making these videos! Is that a CSY 37 anchored behind you at the end of the video?
I didn't know, is it. I'm just not sure what one looks like.
Great experience !! What is the "LAMP" on a BD35 controller for? The LED is error codes, but the LAMP seems to have no data ? Thanks !
I'm not sure what you mean by lamp. The bd35f controller has a place to connect an LED that, as you say, blinks to explain failure states.
Please describe where the lamp contact is
@@EmilyAndClark On the Webasto Wiring Diagram of the BD35F, the incandescent lamp connects to A and C terminals as Item 10 "Lamp". The Webasto pino-out, top to bottom is L N - + FACDCPT ( L&N are 100-1240VAC power , 12VDC is on + & - ) That diagram shows the LED connected to + and D. If y0u don't know/use a LAMP, I'll assume it's not important ( Experience appreciated !)- THANKS !!
got me !I waited for the filling part throughout the video ! ; )
Anyway,thanks for showing the whole process.
A great video, now saved to my watch later library. Do you have a refrigeration book that you'd recommend?
Not really. Sorry.
I would specifically not recommend Nigel's
@@EmilyAndClark That made me laugh, and I agree.
amazing video , thank you , blessings
i am getting more into the whole system now ,
and how to do , to make , to fix ,
even with the right tools i needed to see what is going on .
Happyness for you and your Wife , Clark and Emily
Take a look in the description for links to useful fridge tools
@@EmilyAndClark thank you , so blessed
Clark. Do you have a link for the saltwater condenser? Thanks! Getting ready to replace the dead compressor on our boat and would like to plumb one in while we are at it. Great videos! From knots to nuts & bolts, we appreciate them all.
I have some crazy great titanium ones I use with my battery AC units. But for copper Nickel you need to search to find a good price.
RParts.com has things like this.
@@EmilyAndClark Perfect! We will save up for the fancy titanium one when we install the AC unit. I found several copper/copper condensers but the copper/nickel is just what I was looking for. Thanks again.
Thanks for these videos, just what I was looking for! Was just doing some follow up Google-fu and it looks like the BD35F and BD50F are discontinued by Danfoss. Secop are releasing a BD Nano which apparently replaces them. I'd love your thoughts on this as information about these doesn't seem easy to find, and parts I'm seeing have wildly different prices. With no background on the subject it's hard to work out what's what. I was looking to buy some parts and test building a fridge which will later become spares.
Danfoss sold out to secop years ago. They still make the bd series I believe.
Yes lots of things have inflated lately.
I get most of my stuff on eBay.
Hope you watch our other videos and choose to subscribe
@@EmilyAndClark Thanks for the quick reply. Yes already subscribed and started binge watching instead of work this afternoon! Inflation I get, but these things range from £100 to £1100 for the compressor and/or controller and seems completely arbitary. I was hoping to find a shop in the UK but finding the BD35F and BD50F discontinued it was a hard process since most suppliers of fridge stuff don't stock the 12V ones and without the current part name I couldn't search for the part. I'm making progress though, it seems the BD Micro and BD Nano are their new versions and helpful to know it's the same company.
I really thought the hard part would be re-gassing but from your video that looks way easier than buying parts in the UK! I feel well on the way to succeeding with this now so thanks again.
Glad to hear it.
I read ALL comments so tell me how it goes with the new compressor.
Will you use 134a or iso-butane? The butane can go boom if it leaks.
@@EmilyAndClark will do! 134a probably, although that will only happen if I successfully assemble the bits and pull a vacuum. The existing boat fridge is working fine so plenty of time to practice :)
Thanks for this video, Clark. On a boat, out in the middle of nowhere, you need to be a jack of all trades. Professionals sometimes are nowhere to be found or are so busy that they never get around to doing the small jobs on boats as they have to take care of their commercial clients first. What solder were you using? Any need for special solder for high pressure?
Take a look in the description. I put an amazon link to the kind of thing I use.
I don't care to carry o2 so I can't use the high temp stuff. I've not really had any problems that didn't lead back to my soldering technique. I used to get carbon in my joint back when.
Learned some great life lessons here. Thx! Keep up the amazing work. I appreciate it! Cheers Matze 🙏🏻
You're welcome Matze.
Again, good info related to how the system works and why. Interested to see if the new condenser helps a lot or not.
Cheerz!
I have used the last one for over 20 years. Really helps in hit places. Makes little difference when it below 80 or so.
I think the last one corroded through. My sniffer found some gas in the water side. So I removed it several months ago. But 20 years of saltwater service, I'm no complaining.
The new one has a larger saltwater pipe. Same as the ac unit so I can run water serially through both with the one pump.
Hello Clark thank you for all your great videos. Really gave me the nerve to start my refrigeration system rebuild. I was wondering about your diy evaporator. What size tubing did you use and how many feet? Roughly. I think I might build my own but can’t seem to figure out tubing size and length. I have a Danfoss bd50f.
Thanks.
I have the same compressor. I'm doing the camper trip so I'm not at the boat. So no specifics available.
I made a box from a ss shelf and copper sheet. I wrapped the box in 3/16(?? Size below 1/4) tubing, soldering it as well as I could. Probably 50 feet or just a bit less.
I then run to some 1/4" under the shelf then back to the compressor.
The tricky part is you need to calculate your capillary tubing size and length.
The cooling tube isn't critical.
Box was about 3 ft³
@@EmilyAndClark That's awesome. Thank you for getting back so quickly. I have an old aluminum evaporator that ended up with a hole in it. I was planning on using the old cap tube as nothing is wrong with it and its copper. So assuming nothing changes with the cap length do you think i will have to recalculate if the cooling tube is different in length but the cap remains the same for the system? I've looked around for how to calculate but haven't found anything about it yet. Also did you solder or braze?
Cap tube is matched with compressor. If you are using the same compressor you will be fine.
I just use silver solder and a propane torch. Always worked fine for me.
@@EmilyAndClark Thats great news! Thank you again for all you great input to everything sailing. We truly appreciate it.
Hi Clark, my adler barbour cu-100 cold machine (older model) has only one port sticking out from the top of the compressor. Refrigerant leaked when trying to cut through the fiber glass, and now I need to flair the 3/8 inch tube to seal the leak and then vacuum the system. I have all the equipment, but I am confused which hose to connect to the only port available. Can I connect the blue hose, open that valve, maintain the red hose valve closed, and connect the yellow hose to the vacuum in order to vacuum the system?
If not, will I need to solder a new access port on the either the low or high pressure lines?
Once I do that, filling with refrigerant using the same port will be a breeze following your video. Any help would be greatly appreciated :-)
Yep, that's the low pressure port (blue).
Just as you said.
Good luck but if you got the leak fixed you won't need it. The rest is easy.
I'm curious what you think of the holding plate systems vs evaporator systems. I've looked at the CoolBlue fridge from Technautics and they talk about an thermal expansion valve and a larger condenser as making their unit more efficient. Just wanted to get your take on this or if it just makes more sense to go with the standard evaporator/design from one of the other guys.
Holding plates only make sense for engine driven systems from the 70s. We have crazy efficient brushless DC motor driven compressors like the bd-50f nowadays. You should store your energy in batteries and make cold as you need it. I'm not going into detail here but trust me evaporator!!!
Expansion valves are better but in a refrigerator/freezer setup a cap tube is plenty efficient if its gas is charged right.
@@EmilyAndClark Thanks. We have an old Alder Barbour DCM-12 that still runs on R12 refrigerant from around 1996. It still works, but I'm considering replacing with somethign that has a variable speed compressor as getting R12 can be a bit challenging and R134a is way more available.
Also it's likely you have an induction motor in that thing. A bd-50f or bd35f is brushless DC. Likely use about half the electricity
@@EmilyAndClark I think it's an older BD2.5 compressor based on the control unit onboard. I can't see any markings on the compressor. It's a constant speed unit, so I think one of the newer ones would improve efficiency. Just trying to keep ti running a few more months until we are in a convenient place to replace. I'm wondering if swapping out the compressor and control unit makes sense or whether we should just replace the entire thing.
Thanks for the information, neaver game to try this.
Nice video, very good info 👍🏻
Clark, I like your videos and they have been helpful but when I went to my galley fridge aboard my Jeanneau 58 I found I can’t check the pressure nor fill the system if I found it needed because my yellow manifold hose does not depress the valve on the Schrader valve. My kit works great when I charge cars but on this fridge it doesn’t open the valve. My fridge stopped getting cold and here in Annapolis where im surrounded marine repair companies it’s now summer season and they are all booked solid for over a month. Any help would be appreciated . Sv Padraigin II Capt Rich
Look in the end of the hose. See the flat brass thing? Grab it with needle nose pliers and unscrew it. It will stand just a bit higher.
That is the Schrader valve depressor. It's adjustable.
I am surprised you are using your yellow hose.
Usually blue is for low pressure and yellow is for vacuum and can of refrigerant
great video and soooo informative....Thanks guys
What if the coil in the box gets massive frost buildup in a week and the box has not been opened for that week?
Thx
Dave
It just means there is water in your box (possibly from too much air leaking) and things are working correctly
@@EmilyAndClark thx
D
Could you anil the copper flare now to prevent future problems?
Could. But it's not usually a problem. Not sure to this day why it leaked. Just happy it stopped.
where do you find the tube heat exchanges.
Yes sourcing parts is difficult. Took months.
could you put freshwater thru the condensor coil and get hot water?
No. As the water got warmer your efficiency goes to hell.
@@EmilyAndClark makes sense. what condensing temp are you seeing on the high side?
Slightly higher than the water temp. Or 10f or so higher then the air.
Depending on what I'm using for cooling.
Hi Clark, where did you get the Saltwater Condenser?
They will be available in the kit soon. Fill out the survey.
Links please. ;-)
You have a link to everything except the air condenser, compressor, fan, tubing used on your build on the sled and in the fridge around your box.
Good idea. I'll look for affiliate links on Amazon. Helps us both out.
Also check out that email I sent your way as a thank you for suggesting.
Sorry everything is just too expensive and seldom available on Amazon. I can't recommend anything there.
Go to Rparts.com. It's all there. Also eBay has deals a lot but links don't last.
Great video. Is that a citizen blue angel watch? Are you a pilot also?
Yes it is.
No I'm not, my wife bought it for me. It is one of the few watches that has the features I wanted.
Great watch, I've had 2 of them.
Yes. I don't baby it and it still looks great. No scratches on the glass.
@@EmilyAndClark I can't say that about mine, it's got some scratches and a chip in the glass now
Is soft solder really good enough? I always solder copper/phosphor or silver at about 700C/800C so your method is easier if it holds up.
Yes it concerned me as well. But I really didn't want to carry oxygen so I tried it. First time was 25 years ago. I've had about 3 solder failures in all these years. With my soldering skills I'd chalk them up to operator error.
Yes, in short I'd recommend the low temperature stuff.
@@EmilyAndClark 3 failures in 25 years is good enough for me, thanks for sharing.
Couple “Is?”…. or Couple “Are??” Are these two together an “Is” or an “Are??”. Grammar Natzi’s MUST get it right!! LOL…
Great video. I've got a quick question regarding my Frigoboat keel cooler system. System is 21 years old, I've had it filled a couple of times over the last 11 years. When I bought the boat (11 years old) the compressor didn't work. I changed the controller and everything worked fine. Now suddenly, when I turned the system on after being off during the winter, the controller fuse blew (controller is about 7 years old at this point) . I replaced the fuse with it blowing immediately.
Question: could this be a frozen compressor causing the fuse to blow or just a bad controller? Would like an educated guess before forking out another 300€ for a new controller. Thanks in advance.
Usually the controller just shuts down when the compressor is locked.
Fuse doesn't blow.
@@EmilyAndClark Thanks for the quick reply Clark. Keep up the great vids. Cheers
Does the drier ever become too saturated?
It's for residual water. Once the system is charged there is no way for water to get in
Also. If it does you can remove the water from the dryer by vacuuming it for a very long time
But often they are just replaced as they don't cost much. I usually long vacuum a suspect dryer because when you are out cruising parts are an issue but time isn't.
Is there an equation to determine the size of your homemade evaporator or does it matter?
Up to a point bigger evaporators are better as they can exchange heat with less fan power. I use one rated for like 10,000 BTUs.
It also depends a bit on expansion valve or cap tube.
👍!!!thank you!
You're welcome Byren
i have the little extra board with the light..its giving the error code that its bad..😅
thanks for the great video, just what i needed! i have those parker ' one shot' fittings , that dont match, i got two for the evap side i have to solder on. do you think i should just remove them and put in flares? hope you get well soon. cant wait for the gas vid ! sv blondie
You're very welcome.
As you can see my sled requires me to go upside down and backwards to work on it so I used flares. If yours is easier to get to I'd just solder the lines together.
There is a tool that I recommend. You see it in the vid for about a second but it's in the tool list in the description. It opens up the tubing do you can put one tube in another. Makes soldering easier and cheaper then buying fittings.
But yes, those connectors that keep the gas back leak eventually. Flare is better in my opinion if you are opening the system.
@@EmilyAndClark thank you clark, i do have more access
You need an H10
What's an H10?
@@EmilyAndClark the best leak detector, I just purchased a new one that works better for 410 and is battery operated. If you want my old one it yours.
Wow that's real gear. The Chinese units I can afford don't last long. How could I pass up the chance to have professional gear.
Would you facebook message me? I'll send you a US address. Facebook link in the description.
👍
Were you ill through food poisoning due to food being spoilt?
No. All the food survived intact. Got it fixed in time.
as a refrigeration engineer I wonder if this is really a project that an amateur should do ..... you have to be certified for it (this applies in any case for europe, especially in the Netherlands) and that is not for nothing (refrigerants and especially the older ones such as r12 are not very good for the environment)
being profissional/amateur its a mindset. if you know your shit (whatever it is) then you are certified to do it. ive seen "amateurs" doing brilliant jobs and profissionals fucking it up big time.
assuming that a professional performs his job properly, there will be minimal loss of refrigerants. (= is better for the ozone layer)
i'm really in favor of diy but for some activities that just isn't possible .... or do you let yourself be operated by the neighbor who is a car mechanic?
For example, you were on the way, but you also forgot a few essential steps ..... after vacuuming you should have had to pressurize the installation with N2, in order to simulate, the operating pressures (about 275psi),
Then vacuum again.
Hi Mark. I assure you that no one working "professionally" here owns a bottle on N2. Professional mechanics here work under a tree in their front yard and use vice grips and hammers. It's a different world.
@@markschraven7972 you are comparing 2 different situations. having a mechanic operating on somebody doesnt work. its simple. its not about being right or wrong its about working/ not working. or whats beneficial/ not beneficial. the only reason why no one can self study on medical sciences and have a shot at it, its because somebody somewhere rule that out. the same way ppl get ruled out of being a pilot by having a smal dot in their eye, which may not even affect them, and they could be a good pilot, but somebody somewhere rule it out, so the guy is out. too much rules, too less shots for ppl to try it out, if you ask me. Now, it seems that Clark got the damn thing working again. so to come full circle on my view: it works. let it be. it appears (i might be wrong) that you equate being profissional to not making mistakes. which is also easily verifiable as untrue. why? cause we humans, mistakes are part of us. professional or not. peace.
Do not be crazy! How many people can fix their own car?? And this is the same. I would rather buy a new unit. I know you are smart but sometimes its better to keep it for yourself!!
Real men fix their own stuff. It's not showing off, I live this way.
Strive to be more, don't try to bring others down to your level. You will be happier. This modern victim-hood irks me. It's not doing anyone any favors, especially you.
@@EmilyAndClark Opss.. the real men i know they usually have to go to work to feed the family. Not even time to take holiday. And yes if i can fix something i can try but in most cases no. So i have to buy new stuff. Not everybody can live like you... Honor to work!!
Again a victim. Men take personal responsibility. Men don't find "sour grapes" in the achievements of others.
You talk like I was given my position. I worked hard and earned it. I learned how things worked and used that to help save so I could live this life.
czcams.com/video/9XK5ocXPhTg/video.html