Thank you David, I have just purchased this, I have had three chinese diesel heaters, and all have worked 'out of the box' and I have never messed with them. This option gives me the functionality to set a temp and forget , I have a CDH in my motorhome so now I can set the temp, go out on for the day and know the m/h will be nice and warm when I get back, but,,, keep messing I love you channel.
This is a great option for those of us who got a heater that isn't compatible with the afterburner. I was ready to switch back to propane because high doesn't produce enough heat to warm the shop quickly, and low overheats it if left running 24/7 in all but frigid conditions. So far with swing set to 10, my wifi thermometer reports the temp is staying between 60/16 and 70/21. I got the wired version to avoid the temp sensor problem but ran into a different problem with it not drawing enough power to prevent my portable USB charger from shutting off. 🤣
It needs more air flow through its' case to not only vent warm air from charging, but also to have a more accurate reading on the thermocouple, if you look at the average household wall 'stat, there's always vent slots in the thing to allow heat to flow through it so that it doesn't warm up and sit there nice and toasty internally while the room chills around it... :)
Unfortunatly it seems like part of the issue is that they are on the same board, and heat is transferring through the board (the problem arises even outside of the case). We've been thinking of different solutions if we ever do a redesign. We're always open to suggestions!
@@bureckllc place the temp sensor a bit down stream from the signal conditioning electronics and have that sub assembly on a daughter board placed lowest of the case with ample ventilation of the case. so natural convection carries heat away from sensor giving only true room air temp. this gives max thermal isolation.
@@bureckllc If you're working on a 2nd generation product could I suggest going with USB-C? It seems like everything is going to USB-C as a standard & they seem to last longer & plug in no matter which way the cable is turned. The battery charge circuit, battery & the thermistor might need to be walled off from each other inside the case since USB-C supports a higher current & could make even more heat inside of your remote. Maybe make a 3.5mm jack as an option that would disconnect the internal temp sensor for a remote sensor on a 6 foot lead.
Nice idea, but for me the extra few quid for the Afterburner is SO worth it for all the functionality it gives you. If this could be made for £20 I'd probably buy it.
That's fair, Ray's product is very good. This was made to address the many people who just want simple on/off with more straightforward compatibility. But for a tinkerer or user who wants more detailed control, the afterburner is the way to go. We wish we could make it cheaper, but with the size of the market, we wouldn't be able to pay ourselves a fair wage if we charged less.
I've been on the fence for a few years whether to get into the Afterburner or an alternative. In the end I opted for the Bureck for its simplicity and more universal compatibility. Got it delivered in the UK yesterday. Took 5mn to pair and program, and my van was warm for lunch today. Win win. Both products are awesome and have their pros and cons. Kudos to Ray and Bureck for helping the community make our CDHs work better for us!
Having used the Bureck CD Thermostat for a few days now, I think, personally, it definitely needs the internal thermostat moved outside the unit. If I could identify whatever is controlling the temperature, it might be possible to wire in an external sensor, the kind used in reptile houses and the like. Why do I think this? Say the temp is set at 72F cut-off whilst the actual temp is 70F. If I press the button to light up the screen, the reading will rise 2 degrees through generating its own heat. No big deal I suppose, but it means the heater will turn off when all I wanted to do was run a check on things. I either have to wait for the temp to drop again or faff around with things. I could, of course, deactivate the controller when using the screen, but this seems a bit silly to me. If the temp sensor was at the end of a length of cable, even a small length, then this kind of thing wouldn't be an issue. It works great apart from the above.
This thermostat should be a money saver in two ways. Firstly - using less fuel than running at a low setting - the heater uses zero fuel when switched off. Secondly - you can avoid running at such a low heat setting that money will be spent on cleaning out the soot.
I have one. I must admit, the swing side of things confused me at first. Even the explanatory video wasn't clear on this issue. By the looks of it, you simply set the temp and if reached the heater turns off. Should things cool down to the lower setting (the swing) , it turns back on again. This shouldn't have confused me at all. Improved instructions are called for, I reckon. As far as the accuracy of the thermostat is concerned, maybe it would be a better option to have the sensor at the end of a length of cable. The battery charging wouldn't affect it then.
My blue controller does something like that perfectly set the temperature when it reaches it slows right down until it detects the drop then fires back up
We made this because in many small spaces, even low will continue to heat the space (for example, my camper). Additionally, these heaters tend to soot up quite badly when run on low, which this lets you avoid as well. There are no perfect solutions, this is just our stab at it!
I too think it's pricey, but my heater lives outside the truck and can't see a way of extending control panel with thermostat inside to switch on and off. This would solve that problem.
Ok it is BUT! In it's defence. This isn't some mass produced item from china (as far as I can tell), and at similar price to the afterburner, you might think it should be a lot cheaper because it doesn't offer as much functionality. In reality the hardware would probably be about the same cost. I would guess that this would cost no more than about £30 in parts. Then you have to put it together, 3D print a case, deal with orders, pack and post orders. customer support, and continue to develop the firmware. So if this fits your needs and you can't get anything else like it, then it's worth it. Good on them for bringing it to market.
There is a $50 version available without the rechargeable battery, though that still may not be what feels reasonable to you. If we could make it cheaper we would, but it takes a lot of work to develop and manufacture a product, and we need to pay ourselves for that time.
I have ordered one of these as the afterburner is twice the price and isn’t compatible with my heater and the uk version is £200 so the bureck unit is the best option and gives scheduling.
This device is missing so many features that could easily have been added with just software. Such as an external temp probe support as well as web server support so you could interact with the device via HTTP. Its a nice idea though but seems like it needs a bit of work to be worth the price its asking since you can get very cheap RF repeaters that already do more than this does.
David, Can you use the Bureck with an Afterburner? Use the AB to fine tune the heater and the Bureck to turn it on and off automatically. ( I under the AB replaces the controller once you have it completely setup and working. I also know the AB needs a compatible board to work. Other than that the working electronics is over my head. ) Thanks, Tony
Are you aware the Afterburner has the ability to turn the heater off and on at a set temperature? It's just an option you have to set up in the settings.
@@DavidMcLuckie, I must of had a brain fart about that. I've been looking at different products to compare the pros and cons and I either forgot or got confused with what which one had to offer. (Don't get old if you can help it.) Thanks
Let's say you have the Bureck scheduled for 50F from 9pm to 9am and 70F from 9am to 9pm. If the heater is in the process of starting at 8:58pm could the automatic switch over to the lower setting shut down the heater in the middle of a startup cycle and leave it flooded with fuel? Thinking maybe they could program it in such a way that if heater is running, wait X-minutes to activate schedule change or something to that effect.
Hcalory selling remote/bluetooth heater switch display. Can you make video how or if it will fit old Chinese diesel heater where the plug to display is triangle one. Please. Thank you
Can you see if it will clone the remote from the Hcal 6.5-8kw, this is the one I have just received. This heater has on and off as standard but only 2 degrees step
That's fair, Ray's product is very good. This was made to address the many people who just want simple on/off with more straightforward compatibility. But for a tinkerer or user who wants more detailed control, the afterburner is the way to go.
it appears a nice capable addition to my maxpedingrod 5kw with 4 button remote, BUT NOT my Lavaner 5kw alpine which also cannot be improved via the very nice afterburner unit. Do I have this correct? please chime in with your thoughts.
My questions would be can you pair this to a heater when you DON'T have the little remote? What if you have two heaters not far from each other but feeding different spaces, will one unit run both or can you have separate temperature zones? Does it start the heater in H6 or the default H3 setting when it comes on? So many questions, I know.
You can pair without the original remote. You can program more than one heater to use the same remote/Bureck. The heater starts in whatever mode it starts in. If that makes sense. I know they don't all start where they left off.
Or it can be purchased with an internal battery that needs to be recharged periodically. Causing the temperature registration to be off during the battery recharge. Both use bluetooth with the usual range.
I would have loved one, but after looking at the price it’s definitely not for me. Plus are special relationship with our friends across the pond will kill us with import tax.
It depends on your remote that came with the heater. If your remote has a screen on it then it probably won't. If it has the 2 or 4 button like in this video, then there's a good chance it might, possibly, maybe, then again maybe not?
It is a rechargeable lithium battery. As with all products, the cost of materials isn't $20, but rather materials + the engineering & coding work to include a battery. If that price point is too expensive, a no battery unit is $50USD and can always be run off of a power bank
This is the unfortunate reality of first run manufacturing at a small scale. We strive for them all to be perfect, but only so much can be done when we are building something with limited demand. Admittedly, it would have been nice if David had gotten a perfect unit, though it is good for people to see there may be occasional blemishes. We do stand by our product. If anyone experiences issues with their thermostat, we will do what we can to make it right.
At £55 I'm out. Way to costly for what it is. Someone is on a GRQ (get rich quick) trip. I will wait till the £15-20 version shows up on Amazon and eBay.
I wish we were getting rich, I'm afraid the market isn't that big, and creating products like this from scratch that can be manufactured at scale requires a lot of labor. If the business made sense and could pay us a reasonable wage (accounting for design work, materials, shipping, customer service, assembly, risk, etc) at a lower selling point we would happily do that. That said, we offer a unit without a battery for $50 USD (~£40), plus $15USD shipping to the UK if that is where you're located. I'm not sure if that's cheap enough to feel reasonable to you.
You will have to wait for a Chinese manufacturer to take the idea and mass produce it. for you to get that price. This function is getting added to some controllers already. You could always make one yourself, you could probably do it for what you're willing to spend.
It’s funny that you want the Chinese to rip off the bureck unit which only exists to make up for the shortfall in functionality of another Chinese rip off of a German made product 😂.
@@Happy3dprinting I can't comment on what's inside the this unit, as I haven't seen inside it. But to use a microcontroller to copy the codes of a rf433 remote, and use it to mimic it's function isn't unique 😜. I certainly don't claim the idea as my own, but when I was doing something similar, I couldn't find anyone else that had done it for a diesel heater.
Only thing with selling a kit is that you rely on a competent person to put it together. Have you seen some of the diesel heater installations out there, having them play with electronics is definitely not a good option.
This thing is so sweet, and the fact it works with a standard remote if you don't have one of the Afterburner compatible ecu's, is magnificent.
Thank you David, I have just purchased this, I have had three chinese diesel heaters, and all have worked 'out of the box' and I have never messed with them. This option gives me the functionality to set a temp and forget , I have a CDH in my motorhome so now I can set the temp, go out on for the day and know the m/h will be nice and warm when I get back, but,,, keep messing I love you channel.
Hi David. My Bureck, non battery, version arrived today. Easy to setup and dose what it says on the tin. Cheers, Jim.
.
ordered the no battery version today just over £51.00 shipped to my door here i the uk will pay for itself in very short time on saved fuel
This is a great option for those of us who got a heater that isn't compatible with the afterburner. I was ready to switch back to propane because high doesn't produce enough heat to warm the shop quickly, and low overheats it if left running 24/7 in all but frigid conditions. So far with swing set to 10, my wifi thermometer reports the temp is staying between 60/16 and 70/21. I got the wired version to avoid the temp sensor problem but ran into a different problem with it not drawing enough power to prevent my portable USB charger from shutting off. 🤣
It needs more air flow through its' case to not only vent warm air from charging, but also to have a more accurate reading on the thermocouple, if you look at the average household wall 'stat, there's always vent slots in the thing to allow heat to flow through it so that it doesn't warm up and sit there nice and toasty internally while the room chills around it... :)
Unfortunatly it seems like part of the issue is that they are on the same board, and heat is transferring through the board (the problem arises even outside of the case).
We've been thinking of different solutions if we ever do a redesign. We're always open to suggestions!
@@bureckllc place the temp sensor a bit down stream from the signal conditioning electronics and have that sub assembly on a daughter board placed lowest of the case with ample ventilation of the case. so natural convection carries heat away from sensor giving only true room air temp. this gives max thermal isolation.
@Refertech101 Hey, thank you for the advice, I really appreciate it. When we spin the board I'll look into adding little daughter boards.
Does it connect to it wasn't going to mount it on it
@@bureckllc If you're working on a 2nd generation product could I suggest going with USB-C? It seems like everything is going to USB-C as a standard & they seem to last longer & plug in no matter which way the cable is turned. The battery charge circuit, battery & the thermistor might need to be walled off from each other inside the case since USB-C supports a higher current & could make even more heat inside of your remote. Maybe make a 3.5mm jack as an option that would disconnect the internal temp sensor for a remote sensor on a 6 foot lead.
Nice idea, but for me the extra few quid for the Afterburner is SO worth it for all the functionality it gives you. If this could be made for £20 I'd probably buy it.
That's fair, Ray's product is very good. This was made to address the many people who just want simple on/off with more straightforward compatibility.
But for a tinkerer or user who wants more detailed control, the afterburner is the way to go.
We wish we could make it cheaper, but with the size of the market, we wouldn't be able to pay ourselves a fair wage if we charged less.
I've been on the fence for a few years whether to get into the Afterburner or an alternative. In the end I opted for the Bureck for its simplicity and more universal compatibility. Got it delivered in the UK yesterday. Took 5mn to pair and program, and my van was warm for lunch today. Win win.
Both products are awesome and have their pros and cons. Kudos to Ray and Bureck for helping the community make our CDHs work better for us!
This will save me so hundreds of pounds a year with this thermostat.
Having used the Bureck CD Thermostat for a few days now, I think, personally, it definitely needs the internal thermostat moved outside the unit. If I could identify whatever is controlling the temperature, it might be possible to wire in an external sensor, the kind used in reptile houses and the like. Why do I think this?
Say the temp is set at 72F cut-off whilst the actual temp is 70F. If I press the button to light up the screen, the reading will rise 2 degrees through generating its own heat. No big deal I suppose, but it means the heater will turn off when all I wanted to do was run a check on things. I either have to wait for the temp to drop again or faff around with things. I could, of course, deactivate the controller when using the screen, but this seems a bit silly to me. If the temp sensor was at the end of a length of cable, even a small length, then this kind of thing wouldn't be an issue.
It works great apart from the above.
This thermostat should be a money saver in two ways.
Firstly - using less fuel than running at a low setting - the heater uses zero fuel when switched off.
Secondly - you can avoid running at such a low heat setting that money will be spent on cleaning out the soot.
Exactly our hope! My heater is installed in a tight spot, so I'm trying to do everything I can to avoid needing to service it.
I have one. I must admit, the swing side of things confused me at first. Even the explanatory video wasn't clear on this issue. By the looks of it, you simply set the temp and if reached the heater turns off. Should things cool down to the lower setting (the swing) , it turns back on again. This shouldn't have confused me at all. Improved instructions are called for, I reckon.
As far as the accuracy of the thermostat is concerned, maybe it would be a better option to have the sensor at the end of a length of cable. The battery charging wouldn't affect it then.
Open it up I'm guessing it is just a esp32 with a 433mhz radio and humidity temp sensor or is it a custom pcb???
My blue controller does something like that perfectly set the temperature when it reaches it slows right down until it detects the drop then fires back up
We made this because in many small spaces, even low will continue to heat the space (for example, my camper).
Additionally, these heaters tend to soot up quite badly when run on low, which this lets you avoid as well.
There are no perfect solutions, this is just our stab at it!
Great👍. But why not including PID controll. Arduino has library for it?
I expect it might be useful to some people, but at US $70 It seems rather expensive for what it does.
I too think it's pricey, but my heater lives outside the truck and can't see a way of extending control panel with thermostat inside to switch on and off. This would solve that problem.
Ok it is BUT! In it's defence.
This isn't some mass produced item from china (as far as I can tell), and at similar price to the afterburner, you might think it should be a lot cheaper because it doesn't offer as much functionality.
In reality the hardware would probably be about the same cost.
I would guess that this would cost no more than about £30 in parts. Then you have to put it together, 3D print a case, deal with orders, pack and post orders. customer support, and continue to develop the firmware.
So if this fits your needs and you can't get anything else like it, then it's worth it. Good on them for bringing it to market.
There is a $50 version available without the rechargeable battery, though that still may not be what feels reasonable to you.
If we could make it cheaper we would, but it takes a lot of work to develop and manufacture a product, and we need to pay ourselves for that time.
I have ordered one of these as the afterburner is twice the price and isn’t compatible with my heater and the uk version is £200 so the bureck unit is the best option and gives scheduling.
@@chrislant2561 You can just snip the wires and extend them. I think you can even buy extensions that have a plug on each end.
This device is missing so many features that could easily have been added with just software. Such as an external temp probe support as well as web server support so you could interact with the device via HTTP. Its a nice idea though but seems like it needs a bit of work to be worth the price its asking since you can get very cheap RF repeaters that already do more than this does.
David, Can you use the Bureck with an Afterburner? Use the AB to fine tune the heater and the Bureck to turn it on and off automatically. ( I under the AB replaces the controller once you have it completely setup and working. I also know the AB needs a compatible board to work. Other than that the working electronics is over my head. ) Thanks, Tony
Are you aware the Afterburner has the ability to turn the heater off and on at a set temperature? It's just an option you have to set up in the settings.
@@DavidMcLuckie, I must of had a brain fart about that. I've been looking at different products to compare the pros and cons and I either forgot or got confused with what which one had to offer. (Don't get old if you can help it.) Thanks
Let's say you have the Bureck scheduled for 50F from 9pm to 9am and 70F from 9am to 9pm. If the heater is in the process of starting at 8:58pm could the automatic switch over to the lower setting shut down the heater in the middle of a startup cycle and leave it flooded with fuel? Thinking maybe they could program it in such a way that if heater is running, wait X-minutes to activate schedule change or something to that effect.
Hcalory selling remote/bluetooth heater switch display. Can you make video how or if it will fit old Chinese diesel heater where the plug to display is triangle one. Please. Thank you
Have you got a link to it?
Can you see if it will clone the remote from the Hcal 6.5-8kw, this is the one I have just received.
This heater has on and off as standard but only 2 degrees step
I have a suspicion those remote are bluetooth, but it will be something I'll need to try.
I will stick with my Afterburner thanks...
That's fair, Ray's product is very good. This was made to address the many people who just want simple on/off with more straightforward compatibility.
But for a tinkerer or user who wants more detailed control, the afterburner is the way to go.
a lot of us don't have AB compatible boards on our CDH. This is a decent option for us.
👍👍👍
it appears a nice capable addition to my maxpedingrod 5kw with 4 button remote, BUT NOT my Lavaner 5kw alpine which also cannot be improved via the very nice afterburner unit. Do I have this correct? please chime in with your thoughts.
My questions would be can you pair this to a heater when you DON'T have the little remote? What if you have two heaters not far from each other but feeding different spaces, will one unit run both or can you have separate temperature zones? Does it start the heater in H6 or the default H3 setting when it comes on? So many questions, I know.
You can pair without the original remote. You can program more than one heater to use the same remote/Bureck.
The heater starts in whatever mode it starts in. If that makes sense. I know they don't all start where they left off.
What is the battery life on the battery version?
That's what I'm wondering as there is a switch
will it work from another room or does it need line of sight, what is the range? My heater is outside so this would be great.
It uses a USB cord any length you want.
Or it can be purchased with an internal battery that needs to be recharged periodically. Causing the temperature registration to be off during the battery recharge.
Both use bluetooth with the usual range.
I would have loved one, but after looking at the price it’s definitely not for me. Plus are special relationship with our friends across the pond will kill us with import tax.
Any idea were i can get one from..thanks paul
Can you connect the burek to the new hcalory tool box heater
Hello. Were you ever able to jump start a car with a dead battery with the super capacitor jump starter?
Actually yes. A few times now. It lives in the toolbox in the truck just in case.
We're can I buy one ?
Do it work with the red controller
Do you think this will work with the heaters that also have Bluetooth control aswell as standard remote ?
It depends on your remote that came with the heater. If your remote has a screen on it then it probably won't. If it has the 2 or 4 button like in this video, then there's a good chance it might, possibly, maybe, then again maybe not?
What battery does it take as their wanting a extra 20 dollars for 1 with a battery
It is a rechargeable lithium battery. As with all products, the cost of materials isn't $20, but rather materials + the engineering & coding work to include a battery.
If that price point is too expensive, a no battery unit is $50USD and can always be run off of a power bank
Your heater isn't the only thing full of hot air.😂
For £70 you would have thought they would instal the screen Straight And the buttons look wonky too.
This is the unfortunate reality of first run manufacturing at a small scale. We strive for them all to be perfect, but only so much can be done when we are building something with limited demand. Admittedly, it would have been nice if David had gotten a perfect unit, though it is good for people to see there may be occasional blemishes.
We do stand by our product. If anyone experiences issues with their thermostat, we will do what we can to make it right.
@@bureckllc How come its so much cheaper without a battery ?? . What battery does it use
@@robertscott961prolly a 12V lithium battery. A23 maybe.
My bad $70.
At £55 I'm out.
Way to costly for what it is.
Someone is on a GRQ (get rich quick) trip.
I will wait till the £15-20 version shows up on Amazon and eBay.
I wish we were getting rich, I'm afraid the market isn't that big, and creating products like this from scratch that can be manufactured at scale requires a lot of labor. If the business made sense and could pay us a reasonable wage (accounting for design work, materials, shipping, customer service, assembly, risk, etc) at a lower selling point we would happily do that.
That said, we offer a unit without a battery for $50 USD (~£40), plus $15USD shipping to the UK if that is where you're located. I'm not sure if that's cheap enough to feel reasonable to you.
You will have to wait for a Chinese manufacturer to take the idea and mass produce it. for you to get that price. This function is getting added to some controllers already.
You could always make one yourself, you could probably do it for what you're willing to spend.
Low volume products tend to be higher priced than mass produced for obvious reasons.
It’s funny that you want the Chinese to rip off the bureck unit which only exists to make up for the shortfall in functionality of another Chinese rip off of a German made product 😂.
@@Happy3dprinting I can't comment on what's inside the this unit, as I haven't seen inside it. But to use a microcontroller to copy the codes of a rf433 remote, and use it to mimic it's function isn't unique 😜. I certainly don't claim the idea as my own, but when I was doing something similar, I couldn't find anyone else that had done it for a diesel heater.
@bureckllc Have you thought about selling it as a kit to bring the price down. Some may be be willing to give it a go.
Only thing with selling a kit is that you rely on a competent person to put it together. Have you seen some of the diesel heater installations out there, having them play with electronics is definitely not a good option.