How to Make a Foam Sword Level 3
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- čas přidán 9. 05. 2008
- For a information on supplies:
www.bookofmormonbattles.com/Mo...
Learn how to make a foam padded sword that is easy and inexpensive in this video tutorial by James H. Fullmer. This tutorial assumes you have already become familiar with the supplies and techniques covered in the Level 1 and 2 videos. This sword may be more complex to make but it is very durable.
For more LDS themed games and activities visit www.BookOfMormonBattles.com - Jak na to + styl
Thanks for the compliments. I add the third layer because I like how it looks better and I think it's a nicer surface to get whacked with. I have at least one other shield video coming eventually but I'm afraid it's round again (I like smaller round shields). The same techniques can be used for any shape though. Good luck making your sword!
If you play Amtgard, with all that foam it could probably be a Great Weapon if its thick enough and replace the duct tape cover with a cloth cover and increase the size to reach Great Weapon length.
The main music is from Army of Darkness. The track is called, "Building the Deathcoaster"
Opera music makes it more epic than it is!
With soft enough foam I've been able to use this method to create a great-sword that does not hurt at all really and still appears to have many characteristics of an actual sword. Besides that I use a certain amount of European martial arts to give myself a bit of an edge against my opponents. So (in my own opinion) you can make a foam sword that you can play-fight with that acts realistically and is still safe and fun.
Christian Wilkett-Lumba I do something similar except a nodachi and I use basic kendo techniques it’s really funny watching people throw a fit when they lose before they can even react thankfully there are still some good sports though
i love how the video host actually responds to people with dignity.. most people have things not necessary for responses..
Thank you for the tutorial, I would recommend any viewers to make sure that they can make their swords within the rules of the Book Of War for Belegarth Medieval Fantasy Combat Society and/or Dagorhir rulebook specs. Much of what has been done here is pretty close to what many foam weaponsmiths have been doing to make good quality weapons for the larps and MedFanCombat gaming.
To save money just use a pool noodle for the foam and pvc pipe for the core
LnL - you can't use that anymore
Depends on the game. at Underworld Larp LnL's description is standard for weapons, actually the sword in this video would not pass safety for several reasons.
it would pass a dagorhir, amtgard and a few other larps though, as long as he went with a cloth cover and lost the duct tape. and the pommel/cross guard was wider than 2"
I'm gonna get started on my first weapon set this week! Thanks for the tutorials! Great work.
WARING: this video have a lot of tape
Lol
@Raven1024 : Yes I make those all the time, while 5 inches is too much and will bend the rigid foam, .5-1 inch from the end of the closed cell and 2-2.5 inches open cell works well.
The sword in particular isn't allowed to be stabbed with because of the lack of open cell
@Raven1024 Distance of reciprocation is different, yet due to the wide variety of blades to select for cutting: a jigsaw can preform just as easy for the average person.
Ex. Putting on a blade with tiny teeth can do detailed work & go slowly. A blade with small teeth will go through material faster, so on & such forth. Plus a person can use it later on for doing things other than in the kitchen.
My arguement is the Jigsaw is a perfectly fine usable option, & the best option is up to the user.
@Raven1024 Jigsaw has blades with small teeth & blades with big teeth to fit the detailing needs, therefore it is as easy to use as your carver, only difference is the direction of the handle. Plus the Jigsaw has a straight edge to make straight cuts.
The jigsaw did get me through the Middle East, which I included for credibility, not because it is my favourite, I have lots of tools I use more than that one. I included it as a low cost option that really works.
I noticed that no one (seemingly) from any Dagorhir groups have commented on this video as of yet, and I thought I'd point out that duct tape should not be used on a striking surface. It'll hit really, really hard (or rather, slap). The weapon can definitely be reinforced with duct tape, but not on the striking surface's outer layer.
Other than that, I thought this video was really very interesting. (:
This is the kind of feedback that is really helpful. Thanks. Your comments and suggestions are excellent.
Great tutorials... It's sad this channel is abandoned :(
For those who want to play Dagorhir, there's kind of a problem with this method; In the official rules Ducktape cannot be on striking surfaces. You can put the ducktape on the cross guard (would actually make it stronger) but a cloth cover, sock cover, even pantie hose over the blade would make it Dag Legal. This is a great tutorial though for those who don't want to use PVC. What he does is called the 'Sandwich' method and for super thin cores it works amazing.
I'll look forward to your video on making latex weapons. I've been waiting for a good one.
@jjfullmer Where do you get the 3/8 in. black foam? I know where to get the thicker blue foam, which is what I normally use, but I've never seen the black foam.
Good tutorial, and bonus points for using the Army of Darkness OST!
yes someone else knows
That's entirely up to you. Experiment. As a basic guide, if you are just goofing around with friends, there is nothing wrong with Level 1 techniques. For more heavy duty play, stick with using the camp pad as described in Level 2 and 3.
these tutorials are really good. very informative and easy to follow.
one thing I would love to see is a serious latex molded sword. something that may not be as wallet friendly but artistically and realistically superior.
seeing some tutorials on that would be more then enough to get a subscription out of me
ive been watching the videos in this series for a lil while now and i love how the epic music continues playing between him talking :P oh and great tutorials!! lol
I really like it! Would I be able to use a sander to give this more shape or would it not meet belegarth standards if I did that?
It's for safety reasons. These are built for full contact sparring and pitched mock battles, so the thick blade and heavily padded pommel are essential to keep the players from actual harm.
Would you want someone all hopped up on Redbul™l to accidentally hit you in the eye with anything less on a back-swing, just because he didn't see you? That wide 'paddle' is far less likely to compress enough to dig into your eye socket than, say, ¾" PVC covered in pipe insulation!
Safety first!
A quick question do you get a side ways flex when you swing he sword and if you do is there a way of fixing that
Here, here! I haven't yet made a video to talk about making cloth covers but the best covers are the cloth ones. Learn to sew, (or lavish affection on a lovely girl who knows how) and make a cloth cover. You'll be glad you did. They look better, last longer and are much nicer to be hit with.
16 years man. I watched this the day it came out.
@andrij66 Yeah, jigsaws are great for getting some of it cut out. (Or personally I prefer a bandsaw but that's the same basic principle, narrow vertical blade)
The thing I like about the turkey carvers is that you can get into some nice detail with them since they're handheld. It's like using a paper cutter and scissors for papercraft. The paper cutter is great for getting the paper down to size and roughly shaped, but the scissors are the way to go for detail.
@Raven1024 : Well, it's not really about the bruises, as you get those anyway, especially if you are in a full contact group or using pvc core weapons, the problem is usually how safe the stabbing tip is, as if it gets too small it can stab an eye and whatnot.
@SilentRaeth1 Contact cement is going to be essential for this type of design. Apply to both surfaces and wait until it dries before applying the two together. Don't rush it and it will work great.
I feel bizarrely awesome since I modified this and made a scythe!
@Halofreakanoid Well yeah but you can easily make realistic swords with plenty safe stabbin tips. you just make the core like 5 inches shy of the tip and make the tip out of softer but still semi rigid foam, so it holds it's shape but compresses relatively easily.
Even better make the very tip out of very soft material, with more rigid foam behind it, so the rigid stuff won't fit in the socket. This essentially gives your sword a boxed end like this one, but with an actual pointed looking end.
Where can I find some of that open cell foam for the bottom of the handle? I looked at several major home improvement stores and couldnt find any. I there is a website where I can find it that would be helpfull too. Thanks
@andrij66 I was more indicating that with the turkey carver you can use the tip much more easily since it only oscillates a small amount. I assume you're talking about an actual electric jigsaw, not mislabeling some manual saw?
Putting details like surface grooves in with a jigsaw would be much harder due to how far the blade moves, whereas the turkey carvers move about a millimeter depending what you have. Also I've never seen an actual jigsaw for $5 either.
How are you able to cut such straight lines, also how do you know where you are cutting is exactly 2 inches? I don't see any marking on your foam at all
this sword looks AWESOME. I got a foam sword at the KC renfest, but making my own sounds cool. i hope making a level 1 sword isn't too hard for a 12 year old =p
Ello.
I've often thought about a helmet but I don't have a clue how to do it yet. Thanks for the comments. If I were younger I would definitely be boffing but for now I just made the videos for my kids and the kids of my stake for a youth conference where we made lots of weapons for battle simulations. Glad you like them! fight with honor!
I am thinking about starting to do Larp, could I be able to make/use this on my first day? Or would I have to use a level 1 sword?
Just an FYI, I'm pretty sure all these weapons are fine to use on Belegarth, from the research I've been giving. So if you want to use these weps but you can't do them in Dagorhir, remember theres always Belegarth to try out too.
Well, to elaborate. In Dagorhir, one of the oldest LARP's that ever come about -spanning about 30-something years- the subject matter of exotic weapons have been around for as long as the combat "sport" has been invented. Lots of things have been made and tested. Now there are 2 main problems with the scythe: The durability of the core, and the difficulty in making it so that it won't fall apart or hurt anyone. Only a few guys were able to make one work.
I hope so. I get some cocky folks saying they can do better but I have yet to see a video (all talk and no action - talk about patheticness). I have tried to provide good instruction on some of the most common techniques but if you've got a better one don't keep it to yourself. If you can't find a tripod or a friend (or a pile of books) to hold a camera, send me the information or a link and maybe I can make a video of it.
@PIELOVER67 Contact cement, etc, is very good for keeping a weapon together - having made purely foam-and-duct tape, and flat boffers using PVC, foam from old DanceDanceRevolution pads and held together with Super 77 adhesive spray, I can safely say there is a noticeable difference. I even use them on round boffers now, which keeps them from sliding around like they tend to do over time/use.
Would you recommend using rings of duct tape like in the level 2 video for extra support, or is that unnecessary at this point?
Ok, I've seen all of your foam sword tutorials and I was thinking of making a Double Bladed Sword. As in one sword but a blade on each end. So I was wondering, according to you, what method should I use to accomplish this?
Level 1, 2 or 3?
@Raven1024 My group hasn't had any issues with it for the past 3 years, but we are moving towards clothed weapons now anyway
Let me clarify if I may(and please correct me if I am wrong): You should tape the blade in a few areas (as shown) to add extra strength to the blade but in Belegarth (and possibly other groups) a sword will not "pass" inspection (in other words it will fail). (Man, I used a lot of parenthesis).
Covering your weapon with tape will not cause it to fail in use (i.e. fall apart). I absolutely agree with you, however, cloth covers are the best! They look better and it's nicer to get hit by them.
When he is talking about the cross gaurd, can you slide it on before doing the counter weight? so you don't have to cut the little slit?
Great vids, and aside from what some of the others have said (except for the Bulgarians and Swedens who'd like to beat each other with hyper speed latex swords and don't fully appreciate the purpose of the video), I'd suggest you shave the blade down first, then put the guards on, then the weights and cover. That way you have less chance of the guards being broken off and a stronger bond.
I am making first foam sword due to this video Series. Also making a musket at the moment with Two by fours, and a whole lot of wood carving skills.. But anyways, no stores inmy area, home depot or walmart have .5 foam. IS .4 acceptable as a replacement for Ozark .5 foam?
You can also use softer foam on the sticking surface to make it a softer hit... as well it will allow you to make the blade thinner for a more realistic look...
Great tutorial; I really like the idea of using driveway markers as a core. One thing that always bugs me though is finishing off a sword with duct tape. I think the fabric covers just look cleaner and more professional.
All in all, this gave me some really good ideas. Keep up the good work!
@KaelofFortriu Two is significantly stronger. It's like making wooden practice weapons out of three or four small dowels instead of one big one. Much less likely to snap.
Though I prefer making my boffers differently, what's the cutting tool you use to cut the foam? I've been using a serrated knife (Loooow budget)
I'm not sure if I'm using the correct contact cement. The kind I'm using looks milky kinda like liquid latex. It also doesn't hold it's bond as fast as it does on this tutorial. I had to clamp some parts down. I am using dap contact cement, but the can label is green. Am I using the wrong kind?
@KingPhoenix6666 I agree. I think you'll all find that two layers is just fine.
I know I keep saying this but... there really are more coming! Thanks for the encouragement!
Contact cement can be found in hardware, home improvement and department stores in the adhesive area.
@travelsonic I'd rather use multiple fiberglass rods instead of a thick pvc anyway for those *shrug*. Bundles actually add quite a bit of strength because they flex slightly rather than break.
do you think instead of covering the whole sword in duct tape latex could be used to finish the sword? also how much force can those fiberglass cores withstand?
6:52
"Now doesn't that look cool?"
I wouldn't say cool....
I would say EPIC!
if you wouldnt mind could you tell me abought your organasation? it looks like a LDS based LARP group
@Halofreakanoid Ofc the better plan is just to avoid high thrusts as much as possible anyway and parry to the side instead of up.
@SilentRaeth1 3M Super 77 adhesive spray works too
@Halofreakanoid Moreover I meant if you're going for a stabbing tip and are concerned about stabs to the eyes duct tape would not be a good choice, at least for the tip.
Despite the fact that one can be made and passed. It'll only be like an elongated axe blade with a small strike range with probably a stabbing tip at the end of the pole. On top of that, the usefulness of the weapon is as selective as a catapult in a siege battle. You'd only use it for a few things like one-on-one, or in siege battles where you'd had to be behind a shieldman.
I own one of those latex boffers, and I would love to see them get adopted by Dagorhir and other groups!
But for many folk, safety trumps realism.
That's why I mentioned it.
Maybe when I contact my local dag group to join up, I'll show them my latex boffer. It currently fails for weight, but I think the weight limitation is only to ensure the home made boffers have the needed padding.
If you wanna see a i quess lvl 20 sword guide, this is the first step (link) to the guide.
part 1:
Latex Sværd Guide del 1 - intro
part 2:
Latex Sværd Guide del 2 - Limning og tilskæring
Part 3:
Latex Sværd guide del 3 - støbning af detaljer
Part 4:
Latex Sværd guide del 4 - Latex & Afslutning
Kinda makes me realize that I'm glad I play in a game that doesn't allow camp mat weapons. It's either PVC Cored Closed Cell Weapons or professionally made latex. Good instructive video though.
Whats better for the sword? A thick layer of contact cement on the sword or a thin layer?
That Foam that you spoke of on 8:30, what type of Foam is that?
your tutorial was great. i have been searching for a way to make a good larp sword for quite a while now, and i might have found it. just one question; is there a way to make it look better? i want to use it on larp-events, and a duct tape weapon just wont cut it. I would like to make it look like the real deal. oh, and one more thing; can you cut into it? for creating oraments, and a realistic sword-shape
thanks in advance!
All hail the migthy duck tape!!!
Duct. Tape.
Good Question. I have had a couple of battle card games published that use the people, places and events of the Book of Mormon (ancient America between 600 B.C. and A.D. 400). The 1st was called, "Book of Mormon Battles" (hence the website name) and the 2nd, "Warriors of the Promised Land."Like the Biblical Old Testament, there is a lot of warfare in the book, and so I thought rather than just reenact the battles with cards, kids might like to make fun weapons and "live" the experience.
this is sooo awesome! thank you so much!
at my park its illeagle to use washers is there a substatute i can use and the sawrd looks good btw
With regards to a latex sword tutorial, I'd love to see those myself! Let me know if you come across any.
@hoogie133 I find that when I don't use some duct tape support, the swords don't hold up as well.
I don't know how hard you guys hit with your weapons and what are the standart diameters you can get at your stores in the states. But we are using 10mm rod for 1hand weapons and 16mm diamters for 2handed weapons here in europe.
one of the better techniques is to cover the whole sword in liquid latex. I do this with all my weapons and they look great. You can add latex based colors to color the latex. hope this tip could help some of the people wondering how to make their sword look better: The minus is that you have to be very cautious with the sword when you make it to prevent random shit showing.
That loos so sweet. Now I know how to make the cross guards better! Thanks.
im going to use your method and make my own sword this weekend.
@andrij66 Just didn't think cost really mattered as much as that it wasn't really the best all around tool for the job. If you really want cheap and effective (And actually much easier for details than either aforementioned tool, since both the jig and the turkey carver can do it, but you would end up going back cleaning up any little grooves or anything you wanted to do cuz both blades tend to leave frizzy edges on this stuff) then just use a hot knife.
omg please don't ever cut anything towards your Palm like that... Jesus....
@dragondevel5 My guess would just be get some plastic link chain from a hardware store, like the plastic chain people use to section off areas for evens and stuff. It's lightweight, relatively cheap, and doesn't hurt or break. I'm not sure how you would go about attaching that to your weapons, but for now, just an idea.
I originally created these videos for my card game website but posted them here in case they could be of use to anyone else.
What songs did you use for this video. Please tell me I like it, It sounded very cool thanks...
where and how can i make and get the materials to make the sock for the outer layer?
Yes. The musket sounds cool.
@Raven1024 Absolutely - I'm afraid it came down to bad planning on my part.
Out of curiosity, what is/are the name(s) of the song(s) that play in this video?
thanks man, i made this but the hilt part is starting to peel off from being hit any tips?
It's best to use a PVC at the grip to counter balance the sword. Meanwhile, this is pretty good for a sword made for fast pace combat. Dagorhir requirements are filled. Except for the metal used to counter balance it.
@travelsonic I found them really cheap somewhere a while back (shipping too, at least for 4' or so lengths). Can't remember where though as I haven't made foam stuff in a while. The shipping is always bad if you get into "oversize" though like rods for staves or halberds.
Also I'd look for a turkey carver with the finest teeth you can find, just thought I'd point that out. If you get one of the crappy ones with large teeth and a bad blade it'll be a rough cut (you can still clean it up though)
First of all I want to say that I like most parts of your tutorial. You give a good explanation of tip protections, balancing the sword, guard/pommel attachment.
I do however think you use way to much foam. You are making your blade 2 inch thick. The flatside of the blade is general a non striking area.. Minimum requirements on the striking area in most larps is 0,5 inch. If you want to play it save you can apply this rule to the complete contact area. (also the flat side of the blade). This will make your blade around 1,3 inch thick (including core). I understand you want 2 inch thick if your gonna smack people with it from all sides but then it's more like a fighting stick (commonly used in larps) and not a sword.
Personally I think 2 layers around the core is stretching it, 3 layers is just ridiculous (again in my opinion/experience, you can larp how you want! If you like to hit without any worry in the world I can understand). You need a minimum 0,5 inch of foam on both sides (this aplies to most larp events). With two layers you get 1 inch of foam on both sides with 3 layers you get 1,5 inch of foam on both sides. I use 0,8 inch of foam on both sides to keep the weapon a bid more real, i don't hit as hard as I can with the blade though. I just make nice quite hard swings without putting all my force behind it (no screaming power swings).
To compare my blade is 1,3 inch thick and 2,2 inch wide. Most swords you can buy online are 1,1 - 1.5 inch thick and 1.9- 2,5 inch wide (two layers). This sword is 2 inch thick and 3,6 inch wide.
Its meant for Bel not larp.
Aaah great tutorial! So easy to follow.
were can get the foam from in the UK? I live in a small town in wales were there is NOTHING to do and NOWERE to buy the things you need exept a bad tesco's
At 1:25, for the first blue strip, before you added the black evalite, I would have used a double-long blue strip to fold over, rather than having the first fold be the second blue layer.
Have you tried that?
@Arkloyd
"That wide 'paddle' is far less likely to compress enough to dig into your eye socket than, say, ¾" PVC covered in pipe insulation!"
I thought 3/4" pipe was usually reserved for the bulky axes, mauls, and in some cases stalves, and not the short and long swords, or claymores and the like, but then again, it does vary from game to game.
OOooh! Now i get it! I thought you were talking about making the pads thinner. Have you used this method before. How could I make a consistant groove? thanks