Use a rubber granite in the hole u just made to run the wires through . the metal can cut thought the wire and then u can have a short somewhere in your music system 😎😎
From a safety standpoint, you want to run one wire per hole and have a rubber or plastic grommet protecting it. With ground wires you have a little leeway. You could probably fit a large rubber grommet into that hole and have both wires go through. Then fill in the gaps with silicone. Since those batteries and the subwoofer amp are only 2 ft apart, I would recommend getting some longer cable and run them direct.
Rule of thumb when using AGM, you need 95-110 AH of reserve for every 1000 wattts of rms power. When using lithium you need 8-12 AH of reserve. Not to mention charging, lithium lets you run a stock alternator and maintain resting voltage alot better than agm because agm takes longer to charge, where lithium takes in power/charge ALOT quicker.
dude how do you have multiple batteries in the back and STILL a stock alternator? That should've been the first thing you did Upgrading from stock alternator will do a bigger difference than damn near all those batteries. That is actually insane Edit: I went to a professional shop today to make an appointment, they said you shouldn't go much past 1k without upgrading the alt
You need alternators and much better batteries. You are not able to supply ample enough current. You’re dumping voltage when bass hits and it shouldn’t move a lick more than .2-.3v max if not hold voltage esp when running. Check out titan 8 batteries.
Went from factory 160 to 250 mechman and added an extra d3100 so I never have problems with lights flickering. Or voltage drops. Truck starts quicker also.
I think I said this before but your line output converter at any level is sending a clipping signal, that’s what wrong with the cheap LOC’s. You spend all this money on speakers and amps but don’t get a quality LOC like the Audio Control LOC. If you don’t believe me check out Steve Meade’s video where he tests all the popular LOC’s.
Fans are loud and the little plastic adjustment knobs get hot over time and start to seize up to the point that they break, I've had that happen on a 3k I use to have. The knobs need to be made of a stronger material. Overall it's a great amp for your money! Elan D.😎😎
I did front battery negative to my front sub frame under the hood and sub frame to my rear battery in back then ground from back battery to amp 14.9 volts try that
Like comment share guys. Alot of people are gonna say that you need to upgrade your electrical which you do need to do, but the primary reason I believe your clipping so bad is you set the gains incorrectly. Brazilian amps do not need more than 2 Volts input voltage because the tend to clip easily if the input voltage is too high. Your gains are also set waay too high for the amount of input signal you are sending to those amps. I reccomend you get rid of the line driver, get you an SMD DD1+ to set your gains correctly and I almost guarantee this would fix alot of your clipping issues for now until you upgrade your electrical.
When your input voltage dips way down (like 9.3v), it causes your rail voltage inside the amplifier to also drop down which makes it easier to clip. This is the case with all unregulated amplifiers.
I blew up a Smart Bass 3 doing this with 320 alternator two big 3s two runs to amp frame grounds plus a xs agm then after i blew amp cause it clipped to deaf I added lithium and problems went away no more voltage drop no more clipping boosted everything down for sound 6.0 ran 3
That amp has the remote indicators, doesn't it? I would probably only turn up the bass to where the clip light is blinking. No higher and no protect light coming on. I think your pushing it just a little too hard.
I’m sorry bro I love ur work but I’m amazed that amp hasn’t blown, the fact it’s going into protect and not turning off means something’s wrong with the safety it has built in or is that a taramps thing, would make sense of when u hear people say taramps catch fire, either way I’m not sure if u intend on clipping it like that all the time but that’s gonna be problems, sorry I didn’t intend any of this to be rude but this was not a good (correct) informative video
@74midwestbass74 I ran a salt 8 on 2 zv5 15 1ohm stock alt and 144ah of lto daily voltage start at 15.5 and drop to 14.7 I have this set up for over 3 years no problem
So your voltage is dropping enough to clip your subs and the light is coming on but the amp doesn't go into protect and shut off to preserve the drivers and you think that is a good thing? Really?.... you're tearing up your gear...?the amp should shut off and do it's job.... 13:26
Clipping doesn't make an amp go into protect. You could clip all day, every day without going into protect. You be saying mad sus, nonsensical ish...leads me to believe that you don't know what you're doing. If you were really 'bout that life you would've been had an H/O alt at the very least & some lithium. Your system is only as good as your electrical...and your voltage is ass & those lugs you came through with in the beginning...who still uses those? Even if you were loading them up with a solder. Get some copper lugs & hydraulic crimpers.
![Taramps Smart 3 vs 6000W Sub and INSANE Amp Dyno Low Impedance Testing [4K]](/img/n.gif)
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Your alternator and batteries aren't enough for this system
props to taramps for being able to withstand the abuse from this man.
lol give it time if he keeps seeing these kind of drops that things going to catch fire
For real. All the haters be like TAramps junk, meanwhile dudes hammering it thru clip and protect like a boss lol
You need a high output alternator and a bigger battery bro
Use a rubber granite in the hole u just made to run the wires through . the metal can cut thought the wire and then u can have a short somewhere in your music system 😎😎
You don't have enough power, voltage you will see better results when you get that bigger alternater
Takes power to make power u need bigger alt and some lithium!!
A super capacitor bank is what you need to keep the voltage steady
You should ran all the power wires to a buss bar from the buss bar to the amps
Upgrade and add grounds from engine to chassis. Or run straight from engine to the battery buss bar
From a safety standpoint, you want to run one wire per hole and have a rubber or plastic grommet protecting it.
With ground wires you have a little leeway. You could probably fit a large rubber grommet into that hole and have both wires go through. Then fill in the gaps with silicone.
Since those batteries and the subwoofer amp are only 2 ft apart, I would recommend getting some longer cable and run them direct.
That 400 amp alternator and some cmax would help a lot but I’m sure you know that
Rule of thumb when using AGM, you need 95-110 AH of reserve for every 1000 wattts of rms power. When using lithium you need 8-12 AH of reserve. Not to mention charging, lithium lets you run a stock alternator and maintain resting voltage alot better than agm because agm takes longer to charge, where lithium takes in power/charge ALOT quicker.
Man, straight up and respectfully... You are too far into this to still be dealing with such an old, well known issue before doing your new install.
Put one ground on the battery and one to the frame
dude how do you have multiple batteries in the back and STILL a stock alternator? That should've been the first thing you did
Upgrading from stock alternator will do a bigger difference than damn near all those batteries. That is actually insane
Edit: I went to a professional shop today to make an appointment, they said you shouldn't go much past 1k without upgrading the alt
You need alternators and much better batteries. You are not able to supply ample enough current. You’re dumping voltage when bass hits and it shouldn’t move a lick more than .2-.3v max if not hold voltage esp when running. Check out titan 8 batteries.
Most beautimass audio shop, nice.
Went from factory 160 to 250 mechman and added an extra d3100 so I never have problems with lights flickering. Or voltage drops. Truck starts quicker also.
I think I said this before but your line output converter at any level is sending a clipping signal, that’s what wrong with the cheap LOC’s. You spend all this money on speakers and amps but don’t get a quality LOC like the Audio Control LOC. If you don’t believe me check out Steve Meade’s video where he tests all the popular LOC’s.
O hell yea they my plug to botas tres hermanas!!!!!! My boy abdul
And you're clipping when you're clipping your amp is going to draw more current which is stressing your electrical system even more
Went from factory 160 to 250 mechman and I never have problems with lights flickering. Or voltage drops. Truck starts quicker also.
Fans are loud and the little plastic adjustment knobs get hot over time and start to seize up to the point that they break, I've had that happen on a 3k I use to have. The knobs need to be made of a stronger material. Overall it's a great amp for your money! Elan D.😎😎
I have said it in a couple of videos now!!!! If you can afford all that equipment and wires then upgrade the electrical correctly and be done with it
I did front battery negative to my front sub frame under the hood and sub frame to my rear battery in back then ground from back battery to amp 14.9 volts try that
That's what I did and I get 14.8 as well..
I also check all my grounds using a multimeter
Me I would contact bass amp straight to battery bank instead to metal
Yes, just run the two negative wires straight to battery. Its right there, two feet apart.
Like comment share guys. Alot of people are gonna say that you need to upgrade your electrical which you do need to do, but the primary reason I believe your clipping so bad is you set the gains incorrectly. Brazilian amps do not need more than 2 Volts input voltage because the tend to clip easily if the input voltage is too high. Your gains are also set waay too high for the amount of input signal you are sending to those amps. I reccomend you get rid of the line driver, get you an SMD DD1+ to set your gains correctly and I almost guarantee this would fix alot of your clipping issues for now until you upgrade your electrical.
When your input voltage dips way down (like 9.3v), it causes your rail voltage inside the amplifier to also drop down which makes it easier to clip. This is the case with all unregulated amplifiers.
I blew up a Smart Bass 3 doing this with 320 alternator two big 3s two runs to amp frame grounds plus a xs agm then after i blew amp cause it clipped to deaf I added lithium and problems went away no more voltage drop no more clipping boosted everything down for sound 6.0 ran 3
Do you have the big 3 on your truck? If not I would look into it
Mouse u just asking for ur amps to blow ngl
Always a fun day in the world of voltage. Peace
you might need a bigger battery reserve bro. Your voltage is bouncing back up pretty quick, but those Taramps are power hungry.
You need lithium. Get rid of all those batteries and get you some C-Max play some Ying long lto lithium
That amp has the remote indicators, doesn't it?
I would probably only turn up the bass to where the clip light is blinking. No higher and no protect light coming on.
I think your pushing it just a little too hard.
Why not run ur amp grounds to the battery?
Mechanical grommets...
I think you need more alternator power and lithium. You have a lot of amps and it takes power to make power.
I’m sorry bro I love ur work but I’m amazed that amp hasn’t blown, the fact it’s going into protect and not turning off means something’s wrong with the safety it has built in or is that a taramps thing, would make sense of when u hear people say taramps catch fire, either way I’m not sure if u intend on clipping it like that all the time but that’s gonna be problems, sorry I didn’t intend any of this to be rude but this was not a good (correct) informative video
Which batteries are better to use in car audio?
Lithium
It all depends.
Have you ever charged your battery
👍👍👍...🍻🍻🍻
I got a battery that will fix that bro
On a stock alt
@74midwestbass74 I ran a salt 8 on 2 zv5 15 1ohm stock alt and 144ah of lto daily voltage start at 15.5 and drop to 14.7 I have this set up for over 3 years no problem
@@joeyanglada1275 Indeed bro
Check out js alternator brotha 💪🏼💪🏼🦍🦍 whole different world
Your battery’s are done there not holding reserve you need to
“but it’s still not clipping out” i think i disagree
I think its the amp
You have the amp to high
stock alt at idle what did you expect. an alternator should have been the first you bought.
Your amp is going bye-bye
So your voltage is dropping enough to clip your subs and the light is coming on but the amp doesn't go into protect and shut off to preserve the drivers and you think that is a good thing? Really?.... you're tearing up your gear...?the amp should shut off and do it's job.... 13:26
Need lithium
Clipping doesn't make an amp go into protect. You could clip all day, every day without going into protect.
You be saying mad sus, nonsensical ish...leads me to believe that you don't know what you're doing. If you were really 'bout that life you would've been had an H/O alt at the very least & some lithium. Your system is only as good as your electrical...and your voltage is ass & those lugs you came through with in the beginning...who still uses those? Even if you were loading them up with a solder. Get some copper lugs & hydraulic crimpers.