Karcher Sand Blasting Attachment Success! - SV La Viajera - Albin Vega Refit
Vložit
- čas přidán 7. 04. 2018
- www.svlaviajera.comAfter a short break of a few weeks I’m back and on the outside of the boat! I got the chance to borrow a petrol powered jet wash to try out my Karcher Sandblasting Attachment and it worked a treat! Turns out it was more than likely the water pressure in the marina causing the problems last time. I’m still refitting the inside but with the weather warming up I decided it was best to try and get her in the water as soon as possible! Hopefully in time to sail to the Isle of Man for the TT motorbike races!
I honestly believe you could use the original size Karcher jet wash (The K2) to get this job done, so no need for a massive machine although more pressure up to a point is better. I’d still recommend using the caustic soda gel mixture to strip away the bulk of the anti-foul paint and then use this method to properly finish it off. You could use this method without the Caustic soda mix but you’d need more sand to get the job done.
Caustic soda paint stripper video: • DIY Caustic Soda Gel P...
It’s worth noting too that this type of sand blasting attachment was available for other types of jet wash, so even if you don’t have a Karcher it would still be worth looking.
Don’t forget to subscribe: / svlaviajera
Instagram: / svlaviajera
Website that will be getting updated soon: www.svlaviajera.com
For those asking which type of attachment I was using, unfortunately they no longer seem to sell this one but here are a couple of links to similar attachments. Ones plastic and ones metal, I've preferred using the metal type as a friend told me the plastic nozzle of his got eaten up badly by the sand! Happy blasting, Josh!
Metal type
amzn.to/2NQQVbJ
Plastic type
amzn.to/34B3Wgc
It is illegal to use kiln dried sand in either wet or dry blasting.
Welcome back Josh. Great video
Mark Osborne Cheers Mark! Feels good to be back!
Welcome back Josh !!!!!!!
Mike Larson Thanks Mike! Glad to be back!
Hello Josh, glad your back. Nice job. I would follow the coppercoat instructions, they'll be pretty spot on. I'd definitely correct any bad areas, preparation is everything.
kc sydney Hey, agreed, with most jobs preparation is key, this would be a costly mistake if the coppercoat started to flake off! I think I'll take the next week and slowly prep the hull, gives me a chance to sort out the cutlass bearing over the next week too! Thanks for commenting, Josh
Hi Josh, glad to see you back at it again! As to the prep work. This is kinda up to you. Doing just the patches should still be good for many years of service. Otherwise you can do the whole lot in one go and know that the whole lot should be good for more years to come.
Cheers Rigal, after seeing how well adhered the epoxy is in most places I'm opting for a "fix the patches" approach. Should save me a few days work and result in a job that's just as long lasting. Glad to be back Rigal, nice to have your input again, Josh
It is illegal to use kiln dried sand in either wet or dry blasting.
Well explained, picked up a few tips I would not have thought of.
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed and found it useful!
This is so COOL. Go ahead with the video very Nice everything. From norway.
Hey good luck with your project is Awesome!!
It is illegal to use kiln dried sand in either wet or dry blasting.
Thank you so much for the video
Man....safety glasses are a must! looking good on the removal.
Yeah! Ended up wearing a full face visor in the end. Wasn't as bad as you'd think though but yeah, needed it in the end haha. Thanks, Josh
It is illegal to use kiln dried sand in either wet or dry blasting.
Thank you for the video I've got a bottom I'm redoing on my 29 foot motor vessel . I'm going to use on a larger pressure cleaner hopefully it'll cut the bottom paint off and some of the barrier coat being a motorboat Hall pain in the neck to run a DA on it orbital sander or grinder not too bad in the stern where I got flat surface the orbital sander da works great with 120 Grit for Feathering and go over it again with 220
www.ebay.com/itm/313246778177
I don't know if this is allowed or not heres a linked with the unit that I found to use I noticed there is a few different attachments the main difference I'm seeeing is the way they connect to the unit either a quick disconnect or threaded on my pressure cleaner uses the quick disconnect high pressure
Hi
Where can i buy the same sand blasting attachment as yours thanks
Excellent video Josh. Always wanted to try sand blasting. What's the name of the track your playing.
Where did you get that nozzle?
Will it work with karcher k3 120 bar ?
Glad to see the videos are back - thanks for sharing your learns. I’ve just managed to get a Vega myself which is currently in Liverpool and will need sanding back at the end of the year. I’m planning on moving to N Wales for the summer as it looks more forgiving than the Mersey.
I’d recommend joining the Facebook group as there’s a lot of good info on there and you can see the projects other people are completing then steal their ideas for your own vega (as I plan to :) )
Simon Hey Simon, so you would have bought Robs dads Vega! He invited me round to see it but a few family problems had kept me away from most things boat related this year. North Wales would be nice, I spoke to a couple yesterday in the Marina who were able to get a mooring in Abersoch for £80 for the whole year!!
Stealing ideas is always a good idea haha, I'll have to sort out my fb and hurry up and join!
Does your Vega have much work needed to do?
SV La Viajera That’s the one! Not sure how much you spoke to Rob but he’s a great guy who knows his stuff and Shufti was a reflection of that - I’ve been very lucky. The only thing that needs doing is anti-foul but I’m sure I’ll convince myself otherwise (a fridge sounds nice..)
I’m quite local so if you’d like a look around let me know - probably not too much difference in all honesty. We’re still getting to grips with manoeuvring and building our confidence but if we get to a decent level before we move her to Wales and the dates, tide & weather works out, you’re more than welcome to come out with us for a few hours (at you’re own risk.. we’re no experts..!).
Simon I'd be more than happy to make my karcher attachment available to you if you feel like it'd help. And I've opted for a freezer and a separate cool box, in fact it's slowly becoming a necessity in my head haha. Going to build it myself and hopefully I'll be installing the keel cooler in the next week or so.
I'd love to go see her, I live on the Wirral so I'm normally about quite often. And if the chance to go out sailing is there I'd love that too, although you'll certainly be more experts than me haha
SV La Viajera Awesome, probably take you up on that offer in October. Aha, fridge freezer combo would be amazing!
Can’t seem to PM on here but if you manage to get onto the Facebook group send me a message on messenger and we can sort something out (looks like there’s two Simon’s on there and I’m not the one from America!) - I’m based in Southport and try to get to visit the boat a few times a week so it’s no trouble. Are you based in Preston? Would be quite useful to see yours too to see how the table stows in the V Berth - the bracket isn’t on my one so it just sits loose at the moment.
I've joined the Vega group on Facebook but haven't been on there in years, not yet figured out how to find you haha
Yeah, based in Preston for the refit, might end up moving her after that but not too sure yet.
Yeah, I'm manic trying to get her copper coated in the next couple of weeks, aiming for the heat wave next week! But after that I'm free whenever for you to pop round!
Good job. Off topic, but are they Sony SBH-30s around your neck?
Thanks for sharing this. I’m looking to start a graffiti removal business. This is helpful. Cheers.
It is illegal to use kiln dried sand in either wet or dry blasting.
I had the marina water sand blast the hull then I patched and sanded, next I sprayed the whole bottom with a high build epoxy instead of resin because of prier problems with gelcoat blisters. The epoxy sticks better. Also epoxy is a perfect primer for bottom paint. You need an airless or a presure pot to spray high build epoxy because its very thick. Check with a professional spray painter.
The idea is to save yourself a lot of hard work and time. Which does that? Which technique works the best for that?
Would setting up a slurry tank like the air blaster use allow you to run any sand/media
It is illegal to use kiln dried sand in either wet or dry blasting.
Dont blast of you're gelcoat ?.
Let me know, please, how many kiln dried sand you used for the Vega hull. And how many liters of water. Thanks!
This is brilliant!!! Is this something that only works with karcher? I've never heard of this. I get right excited when I find a marine "anything" that doesn't cost 1000 dollars. I feel like I'm getting one over on the marine companies that charge 2K to do a sandblast. You're, for the rest of this video, my hero!
It is illegal to use kiln dried sand in either wet or dry blasting.
@@chrisdyer6370 but hou had use it, right?
Hi, I've a couple of questions about this method of antifoul removal. Firstly some users experienced sand clogging in the nozzle, any tips to avoid this? I see someone commented the sand pipe feed is better above the lance to maybe avoid this.
Secondly what spec of media is best. I've seen different ideas from kiln dried sand to recycled glass , 0.2-1.0mm particle size
It is illegal to use kiln dried sand in either wet or dry blasting.
@@chrisdyer6370 lol what
@cocospops breathing find sand dust can cause silicosis, a nasty lung disease. I have no idea of the law or how much it would take to cause an issue but silica sand is not used for normal dry sand blasting for that reason. I suspect being mixed with water as it is here may help control the dust but I would at least wear a mask
Many thanks. It’s given me an idea how to get rid of my crabs
It is illegal to use kiln dried sand in either wet or dry blasting.
Ues your right ...sand the bad area back with the orbital...epoxy the sanded area...and continue to the next etc etc...always knowing that sooner or later it will ALL have to be done...but you already know that...thumbs up⛵⛵
S/V Thirteen Winds I think this is the way I'm going to do it, the coppercoat instructions themselves say that leaving the epoxy on is ok and if I've removed all the bad areas then there shouldn't be anything to worry about. Now to decide on whether or not to fit the keel cooler before or after the coppercoat! Josh
With regard to Copper coating I've heard that it has to stay wet so if you plan on taking the boat out in winter to store it the copper coat will dry out and flake off, might only be certain types though?
Andre Hey Andre! I've not heard that myself but when you originally put the coppercoat epoxy on I know you have to keep it completely dry for three days because it's a water based epoxy. You think that's it?
Like you say there could be other types too, plus different weather conditions in different areas... guess the solution is to keep it in the water and keep on sailing haha. Thanks, Josh
I've not heard about that either, but iirc. Copper coating is just copper infused resin. So once it's set and cured, it shouldn't have to be kept wet anymore and can be kept out of the water for long periods of time.
Must admit I've tried looking for it but have no idea where I saw it ( maybe another sailing channel?) so forget I spoke and carry on regardless lol
I've had copper antifouling on my Vega for several years, when both wet and dry, no problem at all. Same with my friend who owns a very large and expensive yacht:- he's the meticulous skipper of the rescue boat, marine engineer, etc etc and he has never had a problem with it in over a decade and loves the stuff, and we both live in the extreme environment of Sweden, with frozen harbours in winter and high, very dry summer temperatures up to 30 degrees (out of the water, that is). Just make sure that the first coat has a proper primer over the existing epoxy/coating (- always best when taken back to the epoxy, of course). From there on no need to prime, just apply the copper antifouling year after year. I have to say that being such good quality, it works out at a reasonable price - about £100 each copper coat, which I do every 2 or 3 years, and the smooth finish each time she's hauled out means loads of time saved in preparation and sanding etc. - meaning none at all, just a jetwash before application. I wouldn't swap it for anything else.
Could you have done this on the inside? What were the specs on the pressure washer?
Thank you
It is illegal to use kiln dried sand in either wet or dry blasting.
this looks to good to be true, ive just bought a small boat which is located on a dry dock marina, i have asked the question about shot blasting a gpr boat and they have never heard of it, does this damage the gel coat, and would you use the same procedure above the foul weather line, also you mentioned caustic soda, never heard this mentioned anywhere else, thanks for the video.
It is illegal to use kiln dried sand in either wet or dry blasting.
@@chrisdyer6370 I thought I read this somewhere else as well..... oh yeah on this video's comment section....multiple times over and over.
That is genius stabbing the plastic bag of sand! I would have put the sand in a bucket, and then water over spray would make the sand wet and the system would clog. Well done!
Thank you! Did you ever give it a go?
It is illegal to use kiln dried sand in either wet or dry blasting.
What you're calling the epoxy primer just looks like the gel coat? In terms of paint layers... assuming it's not too late, which it probably is, my understanding is that you want two layers of epoxy barrier. Then two or more coats of bottom paint (differing colors so you can see when it's time to re-apply) then a copper coat. Or some other kind of anti-fouling. I like the look of the coppercoat though. The epoxy for waterproofing paint is sacrificial and is expected to wear off and the antifouling is specifically for preventing marine (organic) growth. Curious to see what you did. Enjoyed this thoroughly. I love that boat.
"the epoxy for waterproofing is sacrificial" - eh? What would be the point of a waterproofing coat that wears off? Gel coat is generally epoxy. It means a medium made from an epoxy plastic as opposed to a polyester plastic for fibreglassing (polyester is used mainly as it's a lot cheaper and in many ways easier to use). Epoxy has no micropores that let in the water, whereas polyester does have micropores, so one applies one applies epoxy the polyester to stop water from getting into it. Apply the copper coat primer to the epoxy, whether old or new, as long as it's in suitable condition for use, then the copper coat itself traight over the epoxy. Copper kills most plant growth and also stymies marine life growth, which is why the navy used it (expensive copper plate variant) for centuries. It is only cost that limits its use, and the quantity per unit area, which could be too harmful for marine organisms, so is limited in some waters, and/or too heavy for fast boats.
What attachment are you using? I bought one for soda blasting motorbike parts but doesn't seem to work. Media gets wet right where the media meets the water stream and clogs up.
It is illegal to use kiln dried sand in either wet or dry blasting.
Do you know if this would strip paint and/or rust from a metal trailer?
A wet sand blaster will take off rust I am getting ready to wet blast my Chevelle frame
It is illegal to use kiln dried sand in either wet or dry blasting.
Any reason you didn’t cover the ground when sand blasting?
That dust when dry you’ll have to breathing forever while working in that spot The upside to water sandblasting is you can catch the sand paint mud mix in a tarp and strain debris out with a hay bale used same on brick with paint and made easy clean up no dust and unlike brick didn’t have to deal with the shrubs
How many years worth of bottom paint will this method remove I have a 1995 so about 27 years worth of paint?
I couldn't say for sure how much paint you'd get through on a single application but once it's eaten through all it can you can reapply. So it might take a couple of attempts but this will make light work of it compared to most other methods. Good luck and let me know how you get on! Josh
Sorry, need to ask out loud...is that a fiberglass bottom?
Yes, it's a fibreglass hull with a fully encapsulated keel 👍
with my karcher k2, wet sand wont work for me, the sand get wet at the entrance of the end and the sand stuck there. better use Jetmag 35/70
so which pressure washer do you recommend to blast? Not enough pressure in a K2, did you try experimenting with turning the lance attachment round so pipe feed with sand above the lance.
Did you discover reason for sand clogging?
Great stuff, do you know if it works on metal powder coat?
Have never tried sorry. Good luck though
Never tried sorry. Let me know if you try it out!
Not a chance
It is illegal to use kiln dried sand in either wet or dry blasting.
hi how many psi was the pressure washer ?
It is illegal to use kiln dried sand in either wet or dry blasting.
Caustic gel is that safe if on gelcoat
It's basically the same as marine strip gel paint remover. They sell lots of their product and I've used my version many times and never noticed anything bad. Good luck!
not my dinghy officer, never seen it before in my life eh eh eh like ;)
could you use sand off the beach la ?
Never tried it but you'd need to filter it so it's just sand and then make sure it's super dry. Probably possible but more effort than it's worth compared to just buying kiln dried sand. Let me know if you try it though
@@SVLaViajera It is illegal to use kiln dried sand in either wet or dry blasting.
When you set the bag of sand on the camera, all I could think of is muffled shouting for help!
Just spent a few hours today and yesterday sanding on the bottom on hull 3280. Have about another 15 hours or so to get the 7 layers of flaking paint off of her and down to the gelcoat. Would have been nice to be able to use your sand blaster, but i think the yard i am in would have environmental containment breach alarms going off since i am in Stockholm ;-) Sadly they are banning all the copper coats here, so i am still trying to figure out which direction to go on the bottom paint.
Hull 3280, that'd be one of the newer ones! I would have had to hand sand if I couldn't have used this. Have you thought about soda blasting after the caustic soda paint stripper mix? If I had been able continue to use the air compressor that would have been my way. The soda dissolves in the rain too.
I've heard that they're banning the coppercoat in some places, do you think they'll have an allowance for boats already copper coated? Maybe you could sneak in before the ban
SV La Viajera I am just going to suffer thru the rest, it's kind of cathartic, and only costs me a bit for the sanding pads.
Sadly the places to dock in lake malaren are almost all requiring certification of removal of the banned antifouling which costs about a €1000 to have done. This is the first year after the grace period for the last few years. The place I am berthing isn't requiring the certs, but want it free of the banned stuff.
Matt Rice it can be quite relaxing can't it, I'm the same with painting and vanishing
Ah, so the grace period is over already. I really wouldn't know what to do in your situation, I've not looked into any other of the antifoul solutions. You'll have to let me know as I'm sure the same regulations will make it over here before you know it! Josh
It is illegal in the UK to use kiln dried sand in either wet or dry blasting.
The paint residue is highly toxic. How do you plan to collect and treat it after sandblasting? Sailing vessels (which I also own, btw) are already a chemical ticking bomb waiting for long term negligence to happen. I wish owners could be more environmentally conscious.
It is illegal to use kiln dried sand in either wet or dry blasting.
sorry I meant to say Gallons per minute for the pressure washer
The pipe should be on top it works better
Very true, just awkward to hold sometimes
It is illegal to use kiln dried sand in either wet or dry blasting. This is because the process causes the sand to disintegrate creating an ultra-fine dust which can contain dangerous amounts of RCS (respirable crystalline silica).
220 grit on a D-A would have been faster and proper.
Normal sand is hazardous / toxic.
This type of sand isnt a great idea. Sands contain silicone which when breathed in can cause silicosis
Good thing it's wet eh?
Basically dustless, yep
Yes lady Fartwell must have got it after sunbathing on the sand. She’s very silly
@@CarrotCaptain It is illegal to use kiln dried sand in either wet or dry blasting.
Where is Your Face and eye Protection?? Are they not worth more than a bag of Sand??
Hello, Interesting video but I could easily do without the electronic 'music' and or at least do not have it blasting at a much louder rate than the normal audio. It comes on and doubles in volume. Repulsive to start with that just adds to the irritant. Tastes are so varied you will never please even a majority but just drive viewers away. It would be another thing if you were making a music video but you aren't so it is a net loss. Good content and interesting viewing otherwise. Take care. Doug
If you don't like it don't watch
Show us a video Doug. It isnt easy . I’ve got some to critique. Sv bohemian. And in a few week im going to do some work videos. I have fairing under my paint . I’d have to blast it down to the fiber glass. While im down there I might as well blast out all the air pocket when the dip shits that layered the glass left air bubbles . Wish I was doing a smaller boat.. it is pretty interesting. I’ve been sanding for a month. Did you see the cuss word . Sanding
Your video might be alright, I dont know. These people that put up the video's think they are audio and video engineers. The videos would be a hundred times better if you would leave out the so called music/ sound effects.