I absolutely love when these great electricians comment on these videos that were done wrong. I guarantee that you people have mad many mistakes. If you haven't ever made mistakes, then you haven't been working.
I'm 61 yrs old and retired. I have been curious about electricity, I am just too old with no patience. So I just love watching it, came across your youtube channel . Very impressive. I have an issue now with my breaker keep on tripping, I am trying to learn how to troubleshoot and fix it myself. In the kitchen the two light switches and the living room switch don't work.
keep em coming man, better every week. This channel is one of the things that keeps my passion for the trade as high as it is. Every time I watch you I get excited to go to work
Excellent just put the meter cover can back on and tape a piece of cardboard just to make sure nobody passing can stick their fingers on live conductors. Lock out tag out brother 💪🏾
Steve, there is no need to use plastic anchors with Tapcons. The screw itself is designed for use with concrete/cement. It’s best to drill into the cement/mortar joints than into the brick because brick is a softer material in many cases
Nice video, keep em coming. You don't see 125A services very often, 100, 150, 200 and 400 are probably the most common. My stepfather's 1973 rambler had a 70 amp service with aluminum wiring, Zinsco panel and more handyman f$#* ups than I could keep track of when I helped him rewire it back in 2007.
@@sethriedel2287 same here. In SC where I live and work, 125A subpanels are actually fairly common and I've installed a small handful. This was in larger homes, talking in the 5000 to 8000 ft² range with 400 to 600 amp service, and the 125 amp subpanel was for an outbuilding that fed a swimming pool with heaters on one home. In the other instances there were about a dozen circuits that were over 100 feet from the two MLO 200 amp panels powering the majority of the house, and it was more cost effective in terms of material and labor to install the 125A subpanel near the other end of the house, rather than up-size those 15 and 20A circuits to 12 and 10 gauge respectively to keep voltage drop within acceptable limits. I can't say that I've come across a 125A main service panel and meter base, though I've heard of them, in older homes from the 60s and 70s where split bus panels were common. Those were interesting the first time you come across one (ugh... where's the main breaker?) ;-)
@@sethriedel2287 in SC where I live and work, 125A MLO panels are actually fairly common and I've installed a couple. In larger homes specifically in the 4000- 8000 ft² range with 400 - 600 amp services, one was at an outbuilding that also supplied a pool pump and heater, the others were to power about a dozen 15 and 20A circuits that were around 150 feet from the 200A MLO panels, since that was more cost effective in materials and labor vs having to up-size to 12 and 10 gauge wiring to keep voltage drop to acceptable levels. As for 125A main panel and meter base, I've never personally ran across that, although from my understanding they were more common in the 60s and 70s where split bus panels were common, but otherwise very rare. Those are interesting the first time you come across one (ugh...where's the main breaker) :-) I've once seen a 300 amp service on an inspection, two 150A main panels in the basement, 1990s Mc Mansion, foreclosure sale.
ONly concern was the boot on the roof. I'm a roofer as well and that should have went under the upper row of shingles so as to not get water in the eletrical panel. May have been commented on already not sure, but great info otherwise.
Good job BUT, when installing the mask on the roof the pole flange should have been installed under the tab on the shingle. The way it’s installed you’ll have water entering the house/building. The original install on the pole flange was correctly installed.
Videos are good content. Keep up the good work. I will add though when I do conduit flashing through the roof , the top of the flashing usually tucks under the shingle so the water flows over it.
I noticed that also and was wondering if you went back and corrected it. Also wondered what the home owner was going to do about the old holes in the roof. Great videos man, I love watching them.
I feel like if you just ran the existing sub feed into a 6x6 nema box and just run maybe like 10’ of new sub feed to the new location it wouldve been much easier in my opinion. But good work overall.
@@desertcamel3573 I didnt rewire house. I just moved everything over an kept all wiring the same as it was before, only thing i did was install 2 grounds rods everything else was already up to code.
Quick question?? Why do you need a sub-panel? Can you run the wire from the meter to the panel inside the house? Also, what is the distance in feet from the sub-panel to the panel inside the house?
@@manorinyou are correct, this became a requirement as of the 2020 NEC and is found in article 230.85. There are 3 ways to meet this criteria, but the simplest and most commonly used method in new construction is a main breaker outside, and a MLO panel inside fed with 4 wires because the neutral and ground are isolated, essentially a subpanel. The other advantage of this scheme is the interior panel can be located where it's most convenient and practical. Before the 2020 NEC where the main disconnect was located indoors, it was typically directly behind or below the meter base, and there were limits as to how far the service conductors can run inside before the main breaker, which varied depending on the authority having jurisdiction, some allowed 2 feet, while the next county allowed 10 ft. This is because service conductors are considered to be UNFUSED, the next "fuse" being the high voltage primary fuse on the utility transformer, and this is to protect the transformer, NOT the secondary conductors. An accidental short caused by a nail or screw for example, on the line side of the main breaker, would result in catastrophic failure and likely torch the house by the time the primary fuse blew or the drop melts and disconnects the power.
man what is the name of that grey cable that comes from your main panel to feed your sub panel in the house i forgot what the exact term for it is if you could please enlighten me
@@justinmitchell5950 those little things matter, always put a towel or something.I forget certain things from time to time…good to be reminded of them.
Go back and look at 17:10 -that is how it was attached before and it was not tarred or under the shingles. At 28:14, the plate was installed in the proper position.
I absolutely love when these great electricians comment on these videos that were done wrong. I guarantee that you people have mad many mistakes. If you haven't ever made mistakes, then you haven't been working.
so true
I'm 61 yrs old and retired. I have been curious about electricity, I am just too old with no patience. So I just love watching it, came across your youtube channel . Very impressive. I have an issue now with my breaker keep on tripping, I am trying to learn how to troubleshoot and fix it myself. In the kitchen the two light switches and the living room switch don't work.
keep em coming man, better every week. This channel is one of the things that keeps my passion for the trade as high as it is. Every time I watch you I get excited to go to work
Excellent just put the meter cover can back on and tape a piece of cardboard just to make sure nobody passing can stick their fingers on live conductors. Lock out tag out brother 💪🏾
I watched the whole video and now i understand a lot thanks bruh
Steve, there is no need to use plastic anchors with Tapcons. The screw itself is designed for use with concrete/cement. It’s best to drill into the cement/mortar joints than into the brick because brick is a softer material in many cases
Nice video, keep em coming. You don't see 125A services very often, 100, 150, 200 and 400 are probably the most common. My stepfather's 1973 rambler had a 70 amp service with aluminum wiring, Zinsco panel and more handyman f$#* ups than I could keep track of when I helped him rewire it back in 2007.
i believe ive seen more 125 amp subs rather than 150. that could be a location thing though.
@@sethriedel2287 same here. In SC where I live and work, 125A subpanels are actually fairly common and I've installed a small handful. This was in larger homes, talking in the 5000 to 8000 ft² range with 400 to 600 amp service, and the 125 amp subpanel was for an outbuilding that fed a swimming pool with heaters on one home. In the other instances there were about a dozen circuits that were over 100 feet from the two MLO 200 amp panels powering the majority of the house, and it was more cost effective in terms of material and labor to install the 125A subpanel near the other end of the house, rather than up-size those 15 and 20A circuits to 12 and 10 gauge respectively to keep voltage drop within acceptable limits.
I can't say that I've come across a 125A main service panel and meter base, though I've heard of them, in older homes from the 60s and 70s where split bus panels were common. Those were interesting the first time you come across one (ugh... where's the main breaker?) ;-)
@@sethriedel2287 in SC where I live and work, 125A MLO panels are actually fairly common and I've installed a couple. In larger homes specifically in the 4000- 8000 ft² range with 400 - 600 amp services, one was at an outbuilding that also supplied a pool pump and heater, the others were to power about a dozen 15 and 20A circuits that were around 150 feet from the 200A MLO panels, since that was more cost effective in materials and labor vs having to up-size to 12 and 10 gauge wiring to keep voltage drop to acceptable levels.
As for 125A main panel and meter base, I've never personally ran across that, although from my understanding they were more common in the 60s and 70s where split bus panels were common, but otherwise very rare. Those are interesting the first time you come across one (ugh...where's the main breaker) :-)
I've once seen a 300 amp service on an inspection,
two 150A main panels in the basement, 1990s Mc Mansion, foreclosure sale.
Just watched this from the UK really interesting to see how you do this so different from us thanks for the video
Sparky thanks for watching from the UK
ONly concern was the boot on the roof. I'm a roofer as well and that should have went under the upper row of shingles so as to not get water in the eletrical panel. May have been commented on already not sure, but great info otherwise.
Good catch... the flashing seemed to have a stain across the high side where it was previous inserted under a shingle.
Good job BUT, when installing the mask on the roof the pole flange should have been installed under the tab on the shingle. The way it’s installed you’ll have water entering the house/building. The original install on the pole flange was correctly installed.
Videos are good content. Keep up the good work. I will add though when I do conduit flashing through the roof , the top of the flashing usually tucks under the shingle so the water flows over it.
exactly right!
I noticed that also and was wondering if you went back and corrected it. Also wondered what the home owner was going to do about the old holes in the roof. Great videos man, I love watching them.
I did my first mpu today . I was well prepared not because of this one but because of them all good looking big dawg
Great little project ... Because you show what your doing is what's great ... Thx ...
fast and well done, greetings from south america.
That roof is going to leak
Great video but where’s the Noalox for the aluminum wires?
Great job bro , appreciate the content learning a lot from you. GOD BLESS
Welcome
This is the second video watch a few and you have some great contact thank you
Thank you Miguel
The top half of the aluminum mast flashing should go under the roof shingles to prevent water leakage
Roof flashing doesn't look waterproof to me? Nice little video otherwise.
Loving the videos!! Keep em coming!
Thank you!!
Like always great job bro God bless
Great video, thank you!
Nice video keep the coming #inspirational
Is it just me. But it looks like the green bonding screw was stil in the sub panel
How much did u charge for this job, man?
I need to have this done on a customer's house, what is labor and parts cost?
I feel like if you just ran the existing sub feed into a 6x6 nema box and just run maybe like 10’ of new sub feed to the new location it wouldve been much easier in my opinion. But good work overall.
Obviously splice the two ends in the nema box ***
once you relocate the new panel you jus add jumper to old panel to power it up?
What do you mean jumper?
@@unitedtradesmanacademy1894 2 hots - ground & neutral to old panel to new panel - you don't have to rewire the entire house?
@@desertcamel3573 I didnt rewire house. I just moved everything over an kept all wiring the same as it was before, only thing i did was install 2 grounds rods everything else was already up to code.
If I saw my apprentice try this, as a foreman, I’m sending his ass home to think about what he did wrong lol
What specifically are you talking about?
What was the panel being relocated for?
Customer having room built an meter an panel would have been in room.
How long did this fully take you.
8hours
What size and type of wire was used?
Quick question?? Why do you need a sub-panel? Can you run the wire from the meter to the panel inside the house? Also, what is the distance in feet from the sub-panel to the panel inside the house?
I believe current code requires a means of disconnect at the service entry so that firemen can kill the power in an emergency
@@manorinyou are correct, this became a requirement as of the 2020 NEC and is found in article 230.85. There are 3 ways to meet this criteria, but the simplest and most commonly used method in new construction is a main breaker outside, and a MLO panel inside fed with 4 wires because the neutral and ground are isolated, essentially a subpanel. The other advantage of this scheme is the interior panel can be located where it's most convenient and practical.
Before the 2020 NEC where the main disconnect was located indoors, it was typically directly behind or below the meter base, and there were limits as to how far the service conductors can run inside before the main breaker, which varied depending on the authority having jurisdiction, some allowed 2 feet, while the next county allowed 10 ft. This is because service conductors are considered to be UNFUSED, the next "fuse" being the high voltage primary fuse on the utility transformer, and this is to protect the transformer, NOT the secondary conductors. An accidental short caused by a nail or screw for example, on the line side of the main breaker, would result in catastrophic failure and likely torch the house by the time the primary fuse blew or the drop melts and disconnects the power.
Good job well done 👍
All that work just to move the panels 4ft to the right?
Well, it saves 4ft walking distance for the home owner? 😅
She was enclosing the patio an everything needed to be moved over
man what is the name of that grey cable that comes from your main panel to feed your sub panel in the house i forgot what the exact term for it is if you could please enlighten me
oh yeah another question when sizing your conductors for your sub panel does the 83% rule apply to that as well?
We call it Service Entrance Cable or SE Cable in North Alabama.
You shouldn't put your tools on top of your customers appliances. Other than that, overall great job.
I've been doing this 22 years. If you have ever done this type of work, I bet you have never made a mistake. Have you?
@@justinmitchell5950 those little things matter, always put a towel or something.I forget certain things from time to time…good to be reminded of them.
what part of Texas are you in
Dallas
Hey I see you don't know anything about roofing you put the plate upside down and it was not sealed I know it's going to rock the roof out.
Go back and look at 17:10 -that is how it was attached before and it was not tarred or under the shingles. At 28:14, the plate was installed in the proper position.
You could’ve used a new and better flashing and put the flashing under the shingle properly🤦🏻♂️
Great job🦾🦾🦾🦾. Get Rid of DeWalt though👀🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣