Thanks a lot for starting the video right away as advertised, really really good video, no intros, no personal opinions about why you bought then gun and bla bla bla, best disassembly video I’ve seen so far 👍🏻 keep it up man
Thanks fella. My model 64 was jamming. An acquaintance asked whether I'd ever cleaned the bolt, which I hadn't. This video helped me with that, and now the gun is working as it should.
My 64 works fine but every now and then it don’t fire the bullet it’s rare but sometimes I pull the trigger and it clicks get the bullet out it’s got a strike on it but didn’t fire load it back in and it fires just fine is that normal? But thanks for the vid very helpful I honestly thought it couldn’t be done lol
I’ve never had to take mine apart. I just switched to a better ammo. I recommend CCi Mini mags. It’s helped me make Class A in The Steel Challenge competition. It’s a good rifle for $99 (2023).
I just made a fairly inexpensive modification to my Savage 64F. I installed a set of Williams Fire Sights on it. Williams does not list any of their Fire Sights for the Savage 64 or 62 .22 caliber rifles. I decided to try the fire sights listed for the Ruger 10/22 and see if they would work, and they did. I drifted out the Savage front and rear sights. Drift out from the left side of the barrel towards the right because the part that fits in the dovetail on the barrel is tapered. The front sight was harder than the back sight to get out. The back sight came out easily. The Williams sights went in easily. Again. The front sight was harder to drive in. The rear went in easier. Before removing the sights you should mark the barrel with a pencil where the sights are centered so you can center the new sights. The Williams rear sIght has a set screw to hold it in place once you have sighted it in and adjusted it. Also the Williams Fire sIght has adjustable windage and elevation set screws. Part numbers for these sights are Williams 060213 or Ruger 90340.
I have taken three 22lr rifles apart today. This one (Lakefeild 64b), Marlin model 795, and a Remington nylon 66. This one is by far built the best. The Remington is making my brain hurt!
I have a Mk2 F that I've used for bunnies and really like it. Based on that, I was considering a 64. You're video convinced me to stick with the 2f. If I want my semi-auto fix, I'll stick with my Marlin 60. Thank you for the video.
Very helpful, thanks. Important not to over tighten the stock hold down bolts. The rear one especially, That bolt goes into a larger stud that in turn screws to the receiver by a much smaller and fine threaded connection. That finer thread can and has stripped while removing the stock bolt. Suggest removing the font bolt first. Don.
I have had my model 64f for 3 years and have shot probably a legitimate 5,000 rounds through it without a single disassembly and cleaning. I have had zero malfunctions related to the firearm operation, always about quality of ammunition. I learned fast HV copper plated run flawless
Thank you sir! Got this gun as a gift from the ol man and she Jamed like crazy was pretty disappointing, but took it apart and she was damn dirty. Can't wait to go try it out again .
I just wanted to add - when polishing the SEAR go LIGHTLY with the polish. You DO NOT want to change the angles of the Sear Face, just SMOOTH the surface to reduce friction. DO NOT lubricate anything here except for the "Pivot Pins" and the corresponding 'holes' thereof. Oil collects dirt !!
Great video! you do a good job of getting all the little steps on camera. Compared to other semi 22s this is rather simple to take apart after the first time.
600 rounds at least and mine is about to get its first cleaning . It should be dirty . I used a bore snake just fits in the chamber after shooting to at least clean that part . Waiting for it to fail but after 600 rds maybe 2 hiccups I can chalk up to a magazine flaw , sometimes the last two rounds in the magazine get kinda stuck and don’t like to stick up as high as they should . You re figuring it out as you go , cool .
Jason - I've found that all rimfire rifles, especially the 64 and Marlin 60, run better without lubrication except for a TINY DAB of synth-lube on pivot pins. Rimfire ammo is 'Dirty' and oil collects that dirt, which in turn gums up and slows the action and adds to trigger pull. As for lightening the pull, First I replaced the trigger return spring with about 1/3 of a 'clik-pen' spring stretched to 'fit' the space. This takes a pound or more of the pull. I replaced the Sear Spring with an MCarbo spring because its a complex coiled lever spring. That takes off another pound or so. Finally, polish ALL rubbing parts of the action including the SIDES of the parts, using 1000g paper (or finer) AND polish the Bolt and the inside of the receiver. This resulted with a trigger around 2# for my 64. Using a 24x scope I can keep shots under 1" at 50 yards, with SV ammo like CCI-SV or SK Standard Plus. YMMV !
Great show, not sure what is going on with the QC at Savage, short handed, lost expertise or simple disregard, but on my 64 PrecTac the 2 screws that holds the barrel assy and the grip to the stock were hand tight, I emailed them about this and requested torque specs about a week later I get a one sentence reply with the torque spec and nothing else, no apologies for their screw up, magazine, feeding issues, miss-fires on this brand are all over the net, not sure if I'll ever purchase anything from them in the future. Had many firearms, Marlin 795 22lr cheaper, simple solid design, never had any issues, and looks sexy with it's Tacticool stock, and better yet it shoots dang straight! 👍
I had one and only one “I was sure it was empty” events and never again. Everything is always loaded with either ammo, (at the range obviously) or a snap cap. It forces me to acknowledge that all guns are always loaded unless confirmed by me. (The accidentally loaded gun simply shot the floor of the hunting shack, but a .243 inside a cabin is a Hell of a noise and a good way to be forced to sleep on the porch.)
When u buy it new in the box it comes with an instruction manual that gives instructions on how to take it apart so i would imagine that they are made to be taken apart before u ask yes the entire action assembly is mentioned in the manual it tells u to take apart and clean every 1 or 2000 rounds cant remember witch
So first time i took my rifle apart the part you called the middle post next to the screw that holds the magwell and the trigger in, got stripped. Ive done tons of research and find a few different diagrams but the one that came with my gun calls it the stock assembly stud. IT is different in size than the rear stud. It still screws in but once it gets semi tight it spins back around and is loose again. I cant find this part anywhere online. Most part sites have it listed as a long screw that goes in from the outside of the stock and not into an assembly stud. Do you think its still safe to shoot with it semi tight and then the trigger guard screw that screws into the assembly stud is as tight as can be?
@@Huntinggearguy I could try that. I've been looking forever and just found a number in the manual to order parts directly. Gonna give that a try first. Thank you for the suggestion, might have to do that though.
Lol, "that's quite loose from the factory"... -- yeah I've heard from other people that these things come with every all the hardware is loose right from the factory which is exactly why I'm here hehehe
When I tried to get that one last screw out (the one that was really tight for you) I couldn't get it out and ended up stripping the screw. Any tips on getting that screw out? I tried taking it to a gunsmith and he just said I didn't need to do that and handed it back to me.
That front one? There are a couple tricks to getting a stripped allen head screw out. One that I like is to take a Torx bit that's just a bit too big, hammer it in, and then remove. If that doesn't work, you could Dremel cut in for a flathead screwdriver. If that doesn't work, you're drilling and using an extractor. Maybe call Savage and ask for a replacement screw before you go to town and mangle that one. If this sounds challenging, you may want to get a mechanic buddy do it for you, as they're frequently dealing with stripped screws and have ways of making it talk.
nope, i cant do it. Worst gun I ever owned was my grandfather's lakefield mark 3. omg. cleaning it took 3 hours, screw drivers and stripped screws! then it would fire 100 rds before it started to FTF again. give me a 10 22 or a bolt action! :)
Can anyone recomend a place to get aftermarket parts for Model 64? I want at the minimum to install a longer further protruding charging handle. I have the FXP model with a scope and that makes it extra hard to charge the gun.
I just downloaded a video on how to add an extension to the charging arm. Easy and inexpensive to do. You can use this method to add just about any extension to your Savage 64 or similar rifle. Check out the video: czcams.com/video/cvqhw5bie1E/video.html
Can I tell you how disappointed I was to know it’s assembled with a crush washer? Technically you’re supposed to replace them every time because their a one n done. Once is deforms it won’t do the same job again 🤦♂️ and it’s so dirty… I feel I wasted money.
I yo-yo between videos where I cut out all the extra crap, vs leaving it in to show the thought process and reassure viewers that it IS more complicated than it needs to be.
Thanks a lot for starting the video right away as advertised, really really good video, no intros, no personal opinions about why you bought then gun and bla bla bla, best disassembly video I’ve seen so far 👍🏻 keep it up man
Thanks fella. My model 64 was jamming. An acquaintance asked whether I'd ever cleaned the bolt, which I hadn't. This video helped me with that, and now the gun is working as it should.
Glad to hear it helped!
I also had a feeding and ejecting issue but I just changed the ammo I was using
My 64 works fine but every now and then it don’t fire the bullet it’s rare but sometimes I pull the trigger and it clicks get the bullet out it’s got a strike on it but didn’t fire load it back in and it fires just fine is that normal? But thanks for the vid very helpful I honestly thought it couldn’t be done lol
I’ve never had to take mine apart. I just switched to a better ammo. I recommend CCi Mini mags. It’s helped me make Class A in The Steel Challenge competition. It’s a good rifle for $99 (2023).
I just made a fairly inexpensive modification to my Savage 64F. I installed a set of Williams Fire Sights on it. Williams does not list any of their Fire Sights for the Savage 64 or 62 .22 caliber rifles. I decided to try the fire sights listed for the Ruger 10/22 and see if they would work, and they did.
I drifted out the Savage front and rear sights. Drift out from the left side
of the barrel towards the right because the part that fits in the dovetail on the barrel is tapered. The front sight was harder than the back sight to get out.
The back sight came out easily.
The Williams sights went in easily. Again. The front sight was harder to drive in. The rear went in easier.
Before removing the sights you should mark the barrel with a pencil where the sights are centered so you can center the new sights.
The Williams rear sIght has a set screw to hold it in place once you have sighted it in and adjusted it.
Also the Williams Fire sIght has adjustable windage and elevation set screws.
Part numbers for these sights are Williams 060213 or Ruger 90340.
Nowhere near as difficult as others had expressed, and I was expecting. Thank you for the video.
I have taken three 22lr rifles apart today. This one (Lakefeild 64b), Marlin model 795, and a Remington nylon 66. This one is by far built the best. The Remington is making my brain hurt!
I have a Mk2 F that I've used for bunnies and really like it. Based on that, I was considering a 64. You're video convinced me to stick with the 2f. If I want my semi-auto fix, I'll stick with my Marlin 60. Thank you for the video.
Very helpful, thanks.
Important not to over tighten the stock hold down bolts. The rear one especially, That bolt goes into a larger stud that in turn screws to the receiver by a much smaller and fine threaded connection. That finer thread can and has stripped while removing the stock bolt. Suggest removing the font bolt first. Don.
I have had my model 64f for 3 years and have shot probably a legitimate 5,000 rounds through it without a single disassembly and cleaning. I have had zero malfunctions related to the firearm operation, always about quality of ammunition. I learned fast HV copper plated run flawless
First one i have seen of full disassembly/reassembly. Thanks!!
Thank you sir! Got this gun as a gift from the ol man and she Jamed like crazy was pretty disappointing, but took it apart and she was damn dirty. Can't wait to go try it out again .
I just wanted to add - when polishing the SEAR go LIGHTLY with the polish. You DO NOT want to change the angles of the Sear Face, just SMOOTH the surface to reduce friction.
DO NOT lubricate anything here except for the "Pivot Pins" and the corresponding 'holes' thereof. Oil collects dirt !!
Great video! you do a good job of getting all the little steps on camera. Compared to other semi 22s this is rather simple to take apart after the first time.
600 rounds at least and mine is about to get its first cleaning . It should be dirty . I used a bore snake just fits in the chamber after shooting to at least clean that part . Waiting for it to fail but after 600 rds maybe 2 hiccups I can chalk up to a magazine flaw , sometimes the last two rounds in the magazine get kinda stuck and don’t like to stick up as high as they should . You re figuring it out as you go , cool .
Load 8 rounds then youll be good, had the same problem before.
This was extremely helpful. Thank you
Thank You. The owners manual that comes with this rifle is utterly worthless.
Jason - I've found that all rimfire rifles, especially the 64 and Marlin 60, run better without lubrication except for a TINY DAB of synth-lube on pivot pins. Rimfire ammo is 'Dirty' and oil collects that dirt, which in turn gums up and slows the action and adds to trigger pull.
As for lightening the pull, First I replaced the trigger return spring with about 1/3 of a 'clik-pen' spring stretched to 'fit' the space. This takes a pound or more of the pull. I replaced the Sear Spring with an MCarbo spring because its a complex coiled lever spring. That takes off another pound or so. Finally, polish ALL rubbing parts of the action including the SIDES of the parts, using 1000g paper (or finer) AND polish the Bolt and the inside of the receiver. This resulted with a trigger around 2# for my 64. Using a 24x scope I can keep shots under 1" at 50 yards, with SV ammo like CCI-SV or SK Standard Plus. YMMV !
This is more like a challenge to hisself and not a proper informational disassemble but it will get the job done either way it’s all I needed to see .
Great show, not sure what is going on with the QC at Savage, short handed, lost expertise or simple disregard, but on my 64 PrecTac the 2 screws that holds the barrel assy and the grip to the stock were hand tight, I emailed them about this and requested torque specs about a week later I get a one sentence reply with the torque spec and nothing else, no apologies for their screw up, magazine, feeding issues, miss-fires on this brand are all over the net, not sure if I'll ever purchase anything from them in the future. Had many firearms, Marlin 795 22lr cheaper, simple solid design, never had any issues, and looks sexy with it's Tacticool stock, and better yet it shoots dang straight! 👍
Extremely helpful but he should’ve oiled the parts when assembling
I had one and only one “I was sure it was empty” events and never again. Everything is always loaded with either ammo, (at the range obviously) or a snap cap. It forces me to acknowledge that all guns are always loaded unless confirmed by me.
(The accidentally loaded gun simply shot the floor of the hunting shack, but a .243 inside a cabin is a Hell of a noise and a good way to be forced to sleep on the porch.)
pro tip: watch movies at Flixzone. I've been using it for watching lots of of movies during the lockdown.
@@kamdynfrederick7304 no, it’s a scam. Why are you trying to scam people?
@Kamdyn Frederick Yup, been watching on flixzone} for years myself :D
@Kamdyn Frederick Yup, I've been watching on Flixzone} for years myself :)
Great video. No BS straight shooter love it. Thanks a lot.
When u buy it new in the box it comes with an instruction manual that gives instructions on how to take it apart so i would imagine that they are made to be taken apart before u ask yes the entire action assembly is mentioned in the manual it tells u to take apart and clean every 1 or 2000 rounds cant remember witch
Thank you! Good video
Thanks for the video! From QC🙋🏼♂️
Fun gun to shoot and all but a bitch to clean and put back together 😂 for a tiny lil rifle
Old rifle? Weren't meant to be taken apart?
Ummm. Yes. Yes they are.
So first time i took my rifle apart the part you called the middle post next to the screw that holds the magwell and the trigger in, got stripped. Ive done tons of research and find a few different diagrams but the one that came with my gun calls it the stock assembly stud. IT is different in size than the rear stud. It still screws in but once it gets semi tight it spins back around and is loose again. I cant find this part anywhere online. Most part sites have it listed as a long screw that goes in from the outside of the stock and not into an assembly stud. Do you think its still safe to shoot with it semi tight and then the trigger guard screw that screws into the assembly stud is as tight as can be?
If you stripped it out, could you helicoil it?
@@Huntinggearguy I could try that. I've been looking forever and just found a number in the manual to order parts directly. Gonna give that a try first. Thank you for the suggestion, might have to do that though.
“I’m nervous” Of what? Spending another $99? Lol
Some people don't crap money lol
@@MichaelSmith420fuThese type of people don’t take care of their stuff.
99 lol maybe 2y ago
Maybe years ago lol I spend 170 for mine new a few days ago
Inflation! $199.99 on sale. Big 5.
Lol, "that's quite loose from the factory"... -- yeah I've heard from other people that these things come with every all the hardware is loose right from the factory which is exactly why I'm here hehehe
When I tried to get that one last screw out (the one that was really tight for you) I couldn't get it out and ended up stripping the screw. Any tips on getting that screw out? I tried taking it to a gunsmith and he just said I didn't need to do that and handed it back to me.
That front one? There are a couple tricks to getting a stripped allen head screw out. One that I like is to take a Torx bit that's just a bit too big, hammer it in, and then remove. If that doesn't work, you could Dremel cut in for a flathead screwdriver. If that doesn't work, you're drilling and using an extractor. Maybe call Savage and ask for a replacement screw before you go to town and mangle that one. If this sounds challenging, you may want to get a mechanic buddy do it for you, as they're frequently dealing with stripped screws and have ways of making it talk.
Wow it's almost a throw away gun damn I'm glad I seen you do this I most definitely will not be getting one .Damit man that's crazy
For the price you thought it wasn't an throw away gun? What gun do you recommend buying that isn't an throw away at this price?
It's pretty easy lol dude makes it look harder than it should
@johngallagher3732 you are a whole ass 🇺🇸 🐎
Not a throw away
any problems with it jamming?
5:49 I literally had to go back and look
nope, i cant do it. Worst gun I ever owned was my grandfather's lakefield mark 3. omg. cleaning it took 3 hours, screw drivers and stripped screws! then it would fire 100 rds before it started to FTF again. give me a 10 22 or a bolt action! :)
Are rear sights fixed?
no. you can adjust for elevation
@@DestindKnee
Thank you, mine seems bound up, might have to put a new one on.
Can anyone recomend a place to get aftermarket parts for Model 64? I want at the minimum to install a longer further protruding charging handle. I have the FXP model with a scope and that makes it extra hard to charge the gun.
If you haven’t found it yet, Diversified Innovative Products. I also recommend their mag release.
I just downloaded a video on how to add an extension to the charging arm. Easy and inexpensive to do. You can use this method to add just about any extension to your Savage 64 or similar rifle. Check out the video: czcams.com/video/cvqhw5bie1E/video.html
😯😁😄
Can this rifle be safely dry fired?
No. You will damage the firing pin & barrel.
@@wheeler488 good to know, thanks.
yes it's fine. too many myths about damage to the firing pin.
Disculpa será que tienes video en español
Is this gun dry fire safe
I would like to know that too.
Why take it apart when u don't have to
Can I tell you how disappointed I was to know it’s assembled with a crush washer? Technically you’re supposed to replace them every time because their a one n done. Once is deforms it won’t do the same job again 🤦♂️ and it’s so dirty… I feel I wasted money.
Piessa platicas y hierro malo
i put my bolt in the wrong way no bueno lmao
Ok video, i'm a bit uneasy to hear a guy working with guns constantly questioning himself...
I yo-yo between videos where I cut out all the extra crap, vs leaving it in to show the thought process and reassure viewers that it IS more complicated than it needs to be.
I think you could use come help from a person who knows what he doing.
It ain’t that bad lol