Fuel Sending Unit Replacement
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- čas přidán 1. 03. 2018
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*PLEASE READ THIS VIDEO DESCRIPTION AND THE COMMENT WE PINNED*
In this video, we show you how to remove the fuel tank on a 3rd Generation Toyota 4runner, remove the fuel bracket assembly, replace the fuel sending unit, and get everything back together. The steps we show for this job would be the same steps you'd need to do if you had to replace your fuel pump because the fuel pump is attached to the same bracket assembly.
Technical Service Bulletin (TSB EL010-00)ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/sky...
*Torque Specs*
Fuel Bracket Assembly 8mm Bolts - 31 Inch Pounds
Fuel Tank/Skid 12 mm Bolts - 22 Foot Pounds
Fuel Tank Strap 14mm Bolt - 30 Foot Pounds
*PARTS*
*Fuel Pump Filter/Strainer
amzn.to/2SAfldO
*Fuel Pump Bracket Gasket #77169-60010 (This is the gasket that seals the fuel sending unit to the gas tank. We didn't replace this in the video because Wei didn't think to get one. We suggest you replace it.) amzn.to/33NGAFT
*HELPFUL TOOLS*
If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.
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*6 Ton Jack Stands - (strong stands to safely support your vehicle while you're underneath it)
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*Heavy Duty Rubber Wheel Chocks - (nice chocks that don't slip)
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*Multimeter - (The one I bought via Amazon isn't available anymore but this one looks pretty good) amzn.to/2NcuGwr
*Milwaukee Mi12 Cordless Ratchet - (speeds up the removal and installation of fasteners)
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*Milwaukee M12 Battery
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*Milwaukee M12 High Capacity Battery
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*Milwaukee M12 Battery Charger
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*Long Magnetic Parts/Tool Tray (Good for holding longer tools like ratchets and wrenches) amzn.to/2m89y0D
*Medium Size Magnetic Parts/Tool Tray (Good Size for keeping track of fasteners/small parts) amzn.to/2ky8Qt8
*Small Size Magnetic Parts/Tool Tray Set (Good for holding lug nuts or smaller fasteners/parts) amzn.to/3l5KnHg
*Flex Head Flare Nut Wrench Set - (to loosen and tighten flare nut fittings)
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*Small Pick Tool Set - (to help separate small hoses from fittings)
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*Hose Remover Set - (to assist removing larger hoses from fittings)
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*Dewalt 3/8" Impact Gun - (nice compact gun with plenty of power)
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*Dewalt Batteries
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*Dewalt Battery Charger
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*3/8" Drive Regular Impact Extension Set
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*3/8” Drive Shallow Impact Socket Set
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*Silicone Plug Kit - (to plug leaking fuel lines)
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*Harbor Freight 2000 lb Transmission Jack - (works really well and is affordable)
www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb...
*Right Angle Needle Nose Piers - (to remove hose clamps)
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*Flex Head Flare Nut Wrench Set - (nice super functional box end wrench set)
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*JIS Screwdriver - (meant for screws on Japanese vehicles)
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*1/4" and 3/8" Flex Head Ratchet Set - ( to assist getting all the fasteners tightened up. These ratchets will make your wrenching life easier) amzn.to/2ql8nNA
*CDI 3/8" Drive Inch Pound Torque Wrench - (to torque fuel bracket assembly bolts)
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*CDI 3/8" Drive Foot Pound Torque Wrench - (to torque gas tank and skid plate bolts)
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**As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases.
**As Amazon Associates we earn from qualifying purchases. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
*PLEASE READ THIS COMMENT AND THE VIDEO DESCRIPTION FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION*
During the editing process, we realized we could have done things a little different in regards to the smaller rear hose disconnection. Instead of removing the hose from the filler pipe assembly and then releasing the metal hose bracket that's held to the frame with that 12mm nut, we could have just removed the hose on the opposite side of the bracket closer to the fuel tank. When the fuel tank is up all the way, getting that hose disconnected would be next to impossible because you can't really get your hand in there with a tool to compress the constant tension clamp and then work the hose off the metal pipe. Once you drop the tank a little, you should be able to get the clamp off the fitting and then most likely have to use a pick tool to break the hose free of the metal pipe and then pull the hose off. On the way back in, you'd just get the tank up high enough so you could reconnect that hose first before bringing up the tank all the way. There's always more than one way to get something done so we wanted to mention this as an option in case you didn't want to do it exactly like we did it.
Please don't forget about that wire that's attached to the top of the fuel tank. When you have that access hatch off under the rear seat to disconnect the fuel pump, you can actually see the clip the wire is attached to by looking into the hole backwards toward the rear of the vehicle. There's a good chance you can reach your hand in there and disconnect that wire before you start to lower the tank. If you can't get it disconnected, just drop the tank a little so you can get your hand up there with a tool to get that clip free of the tank.
Great video timmy. I ve been asking you for a fuel tank drop video for quite some time lol. BTW, do you know whats the other wire for? If i recall its either the rear locker or tow package harness ... not sure thought.
Hey Terry, I'm not sure what the other wire harness is for either. It attaches to the tank but then the wire goes up towards the body. I didn't follow it to see where it leads. Maybe I'll take a look at a wiring schematic and try to figure it out.
@@TimmyTheToolman those wires are for the right and left rear ABS sensors. The sensors connect individually by each rear shock....then combine into one harness on the driver side above the tube that connects both sides of the rear frame....that harness runs above the fuel tank and comes out the inspection port under the rear seat in the driver side.
@@heatmyzer9 Thanks for sharing this.
@@mrmclovin335 There are lots of online sellers of Toyota parts. I just don't know if they have the parts you're looking for.
I've watched your videos and utilized your channel several times. As always, attention to each detail narrative with video that shows no blind spots. I haven't needed to question or search for that one shadowed frame that wasn't clear. Good job....
My message today is my own preference and the majority may not agree, including yourself.
There's something about the mechanic speaking his thoughts while performing his work with his own hands.
And that's it. Thankyou for your time and ability to give to the community.
You're very welcome. I appreciate your comment.
Awesome videos Timmy! I've been a european car tech for 12 years, just got a 3rd gen 4R and I have to thank you for your attention to detail, factory by the book procedures, and your honesty. I have done the Tundra Brake Upgrade, Timing Belt, and now the fuel pump thanks to your videos!! I did buy the factory service manuals, but I usually search for your video before going there! Haha! Thanks again...
Thanks Casey. I have to say it's pretty cool knowing an experienced mechanic likes our videos. We appreciate you taking the time to comment. Comments like yours help fuel our desire to keep making videos. Knowing people appreciate our work is our favorite form of payment. Happy Wrenching!
I know it’s an older video, but I still just wnna take the time and thank you Tim, and your friend for making this video. The level of detail which is extremely important is superb. I was so glad this video was there waiting for me to find it cuz guess what, gotta replace the fuel pump on my dad’s 4runner. Great work on showing the angles and orientation of all the hoses and parts!
You'e very welcome Israel. We appreciate the compliment on our work from one of our oldest fans. Good luck with the job.
it might not have totally fixed the problem you had in your video - but it is extremely valuable to the rest of us!! knowing those little tips about the hose bracket and the electrical plastic clamp on top of the tank are examples of why this video is so needed.
thank you!
Great to hear you think our video is valuable. You're very welcome and thanks for the comment.
I always appreciate the detail you provide in your videos and this one was excellent. No detail is too small. I dropped the tank on my '98 Limited last week to change the fuel pump (upgrade) to better feed the magnuson supercharger I installed last year. As I followed along your guide, I found it was impossible to detach the clip for the wire on the top of the tank but using a mirror - light (a Timmy tip) I determined that this clip is connected to the wire with black electrical tape so get in there with a knife from the driveline side of the tank and cut the electrical tape with two long horizontal cuts (one on each side of the clip). I also used your suggestion and removed the hose closest to the fuel tank. I would change your words however from "Once you drop the tank a little," to drop the tank as low as you possibly can since the constant tension clamp is oriented facing towards the outer edge of the tank (towards the door side) and you will need a space the length of a set of pliers above the tank to effectively get on the tension clamp. (disregard if you are a rock climber with superhuman hand strength).
I followed your lead and checked the resistance of the sending unit as I noted issues with my fuel levels when progressing from full to empty. When driving full, the guage seemed to drop very quickly indicated poor fuel economy... then around a quarter of a tank the guage dropped very slowly indicating exceptional fuel economy. With the sending unit removed, I took a number of readings and made a graph of resistance vs position along the sending unit. There are 49 circuits (like keys on a piano) from full to empty so 49 positions. The graph showed a perfectly linear relationship which seemed a bit odd as I would have predicted a non-linear trend ... a polynomial relationship. (no not polyamorous!). I thoroughly cleaned all the surfaces with a qtip and isopropyl alcohol and the new updated graph displayed this non-linear relationship. Essentially, the dirty version of the guage was reading 1/2 a tank of gas when the clean guage was reading 3/4 of a tank. While the dirty version of the gauge would read 1/8 of a tank, the clean version read 1/4 tank. Remember that the dirt is increasing the resistance which in turn sends this signal to the guage and this higher resistance makes the guage read lower than it should for any given fuel level.
I completely emptied the tank, remounted the tank and proceeded to fill the tank 1.5 gallons at a time and photographed the guage after every add. Here are the results:
If you fill your tank (assuming it is not dented) and your guage is new and calibrated, the pump will stop at 15.85 gallons. If you check the guage after it settles, it will line up with the full line and then if you continue pumping slowly, you will eventually get 18.5 gallons. The guage would then be buried. If you then lift the pump handle, higher and higher as you lightly trigger the gas pump handle, you will eventually max out at 22 gallons. You can drive with your guage past the empty line to the point where you only have 1.1 gallons left in the tank. If you are driving downhill (or the rear end is on jack stands), your engine will then die(out of gas!). If you are on level ground or going up hill, you will be able to go a little farther but how much I don't know. Even by cleaning the sending unit, my sending unit still read a little higher resistance than spec over the half full to full region. Here is what my cleaned guage reads:
Guage buried needle: 17 to 22 gallons (64 to 83 liters)
Guage full line: 15.8 gallons (60 liters)
Guage 3/4 line: 13.87 gallons (52.5 liters)
Guage 1/2 line: 11 gallons (42 liters)
Guage 1/4 line: 5.5 gallons (21 liters)
Guage 0 line: 2.75 gallons (11 liters)
Guage buried needle: 1.1 to 2.4 gallons(4.1 to 9.2 liters)
Guage out of gas: 1.09 gallons (4.1 liters)
Your mileage will vary depending on how clean your guage is..well not literally!
If you have anomalous fuel economy numbers as I have described, you have a dirty sending unit and can use timmy's excellent video to drop the tank. Not as much of a pain if you follow his lead.
Thanks Timmy!
Glad you found this video helpful Tim and thanks for sharing all your tech on diagnosing the gauge issue.
good info. one thing though, overfilling your tank is the best way to saturate your evap canister over time, which ends up being a bad day. Best practice is to suppress your OCD and stop when the pump helpfully clicks off.
Tim and Wayne, thank you so much for this wonderful video I had to change the fuel pump in my wife's 2000 4Runner so this gave me all the information I needed about how to drop the tank how to undo everything how to reassemble it and my sending unit was fine but I put a new fuel pump in it and she's happy!!
Hey Richard, glad to hear our video helped you out. My buddy's name is Wei but I can see how Wei sounds like Wayne. Thanks for taking the time to comment and share your success story with us. Happy Wrenching!
Howdy Richard. I have an 01 4Runner with poor acceleration and gas fumes after being turned off. I have researched the 4Runner forums and believe I have a cracked overfill check valve (hence the fumes) and possibly a malfunctioning fuel pump (poor acceleration?). Could you please let me know the symptoms your 4Runner exhibited before deciding to replace the fuel pump. Thanks in advance!
Great narration on all your videos. You have saved me a lot of time. Thank You. I have a 96 4runner with 193,000.
Thanks Mark and you're very welcome. Thanks for taking the time to comment and share this. Happy Wrenching!
Best Toyota channel in the world.
Im so glad it is Toyota, and not Volkswagen (VW) at your channel 😊 🚙
You really think we're the best? There's a lot of good CZcamsrs out there but probably not that many that specialize in Toyotas. Thanks! I appreciate the compliment.
Yeah, you wouldn't see me with a channel specializing in VWs. I don't particularly like them other than the cool old bugs and vans. I'm basically not a huge fan of German engineered vehicles. They just don't seem as user friendly as Japanese vehicles, they're harder to work on, more expensive to maintain and don't hold their value well unless they are one of the classics I mentioned above.
@@TimmyTheToolman I have both Toyota (FJ) and VW (Jetta). I do 100% on them myself. I find the Jetta quite a bit easier to work with than the Toyota, the documentation available is better and in general more enjoyable to work on, even if everything is crammed in the engine bay, but the procedures are simpler. However the easier car to work on I have is the BMW E85.
I will be dropping the tank of the FJ soon so this video gave me some sort of preview, it won't be 100% the same but several steps are going to be similar.
@@AlessioSangalli Interesting the Jetta is easier to work on. My girlfriend has a BMW Z3 and I've found it's easier to work on for some things and harder for others. I helped pull her manual transmission and it was a pain in the ass. Getting to all the bolts to separate the trans from the motor wasn't easy due to the space available. But, replacing the water pump was pretty easy on her Z3 compared to the labor it would take to do on a Toyota.
Glad our video is giving you an idea of how to tackle the tank drop on your FJ. Get back to us and let us know how it went for you. Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman interesting. I replaced the clutch in the Jetta and yes I used many swear words. My pregnant wife had to help me out to get out the transmission from that cramped engine bay.
However when I did the clutch of the FJ, damn that was much harder. Granted, now that I've done it once it would probably be much much easier but still. I was hoping however when it will be time to do the clutch on the BMW it will be closer in difficulty to the VW that the FJ 😀
By the way yeah it depends. To put the Z4 on jackstands I had to build special custom ramps so that I can get under with the floor jack and special adapters for the jack stands to fit. It takes me.a good half hour just to put it up with a helper. With the FJ I don't even have to use a jack, I just slide under it, 😁
Timmy says everything 150 times, its part of the channel''s allure. Great video.
Finally somebody who gets me. Yep, I repeat myself a lot, no doubt. It drives people crazy sometimes. Glad you like the video.
@@TimmyTheToolman don't stop. Redundancy in these situations is golden.
@@tommeyer6033 Thanks Tom.
Caution! Look at your strap first if you are in corrosion country! It looked like I had gravel between skid plate and tank and I was worried about possible corrosion on outside of tank causing problems down the road. So I spent the day in "seized bolt hell" trying every trick to get those 5 bolts out. Almost made it, but the frame bolt twisted off - easiest one to drill and re-tap so that was ok. Used floor jack to lower skid plate as you suggested. Damned glad I did! As I lowered it, the tank came down too (full of gas since the fall when I took it off the road). I didn't realize it until I got the skid off and there the tank was suspended at a 45 degree angle. I couldn't believe it was still up and will have to take a close look at my lines to see if they bent - something must have held it up! The tank strap was completely rusted through and the tank had been sitting on the skid plate - probably for years (through all those off road trips too). Worse, my shop is heated by an old Franklin stove (oven flame). Made me sick to think of what could have happened. I never thought about checking the strap. The break was between the skid and tank from corrosion ( I live in Canada). Nothing left of it but the plastic for about 4 inches. Anyway, everything is secure and I'm now trying to find a strap and not looking forward to spending hours working on that strap bolt. If I twist that one, I'll probably have to drop the drive shaft in order to drill and re-tap. Anyways, thanks as usual for your excellent information. With about 250 k miles on my 96 limited, I figure it's about half way through its life. I use your videos often as motivation to tackle the next job!
M A man that is one hell of a story. Rust belt folks have it so hard. Thanks for sharing and we admire your perseverance!
I was going to request this video a while back and here it is, thanks. Great job as always. Could I request doing a video on the supercharger rebuild? Others that come to mind that aren't necessarily geared towards factory manual repairs are after market headers for 3.4L, front air locker install and dual battery install. Just throwing out some ideas.
This was very informative on how to remove the fuel tank and how to replace the fuel sender unit. I suppose with the fuel tank full, you can check the resistance at the terminal or wires leading to the terminal with the sender still in the tank. Great vid, thanks!
We're happy to hear you found our video very informative. You are right you could check the resistance of the fuel sending unit with the fuel tank full and the tank still on the vehicle. You're very welcome. Happy Wrenching!
Thanks for the vid!! Had to install some ferrite chokes on the fuel pump power wires. Trying to eliminate RF noise for my CB radio. Now I know where the wires are!!
You're welcome! Glad the video helped you out.
The float actually sitting outside besides bucket.. it’s calibrated possition when you screw everything ..main bucket is mainly for pumping of fuel with the filter. Every time the truck moves it fills with gas..
That’s the remaining fuel u have in the bucket when gauge is in zero fuel reading.
Well done guys 👍
Thanks!
Excellent video, comprehensive and very detailed ; the narration and video imaging is superb. The level gauge did not go to full with the replacement sender unit most probably because gauge calibration was not performed after installing the replacement sender unit. This step is essential for the gauge to recognize the resistance value and range of the new sender unit; any change is the resistance from that's of the original sender unit will result in inaccurate level gauge indication. The calibration procedure is detailed in Toyota Service Bulletin (TSB) EL010-99
Glad you like the videos and thanks for sharing your information for the gauge calibration. We link a related TSB in the video description. However, the ohms resistance with the two sending units seemed to be exactly the same. I think maybe his problem lies with the circuit board and not a calibration issue.
@@TimmyTheToolman Correct. TSB EL010-00 explains this. To fix the gauge issue, some 99-00 VIN's (see the TSB) require replacing a board in the cluster called "Combination Plate #3" and doing some other stuff. After that you do EL010-99 to calibrate. Doing this all currently on my '99 since the fuel pump is acting up, which is why I'm here at your helpful vid. :-)
@@blueskyhigh420 Let me know how it all works out.
His fuel gauge probably isn't showing full because he needs to calibrate it for 99+4runners. There's a TSB on it, as I recall turn key off, turn on until dash lights come on, and press ODO for 3 seconds until you get a tone. Than turn key off again and turn on and hold for 5 seconds. Tone should be the same. That will calibrate.
1.With the ignition switch in the Off position, press and hold the trip speedometer reset button.
2. Continue pressing the reset button while turning the ignition switch to the On position.
3. Within 5 seconds of turning the ignition switch On, release the trip switch, press trip switch 3 times and on the 3rd press, hold the switch for 5 seconds. The buzzer will sound for 1 second at 800HZ.
4. After the buzzer stops, release the trip switch.
5.Press the trip switch one more time and hold for 5 seconds. Once more the buzzer will sound for 1 second at 800HZ.
Eugene Peter Wittkoff this is some great info. Thanks for sharing this TSB. Do you know the TSB #?
Tsb EL010-99
@@stevepravecek4462 some 99-00 VIN's need to actually swap a board to fix the gauge issue, and THEN do the calibration. It's laid out in TSB EL010-00.
This was awsome!! I just pulled one and tested it results were unclear. I have a 99 so I need to look for the bulletin. You just saved me a lot time, THANKS! Side question in your video on Trans. mount... I have a 2WD, the plastic piece at the bottom of the mount there is space and I can push on the the shaft and move the drive line with little pressure. Do I tighten the plastic piece or just replace it?
Tim thanks for the video!! It helped me change the fuel tank. Much appreciated!
You're welcome. Great to know our video helped you swap out your fuel tank.
Having the same issue on my Son's 98. I am going to replace the tank and fuel pump as one whole gigantic assembly, hopefully when the tank is full it will read full not at 3/4 tank. Great video , very informative good job Timmy!
Thanks Albert. Good luck with the swap and I hope it corrects your fuel gauge issue.
I'm looking forward to the spring meet up !
Yeah, we need to start looking at possible dates.
Your videos are amazing I think I've watched them all. So much Information and easy to follow them step by step. I particularly watched this video about 3-4 times as I have a project a friend and I are going to tackle that will have me following these exact steps. My 98 runner has been giving off a pretty heavy fuel smell from the LR wheel area for about 2 months. I mean it smells like I am at the gas station filling up my vehicle but I mainly smell it after shutting it off or when running. I dont seem to smell it just when it's sitting. My fuel consumption is terrible I get like 150 miles out of a slap full tank. We have not diagnosed it yet but know it's coming from the top of the tank. No drips or visible leaks we can see. My question is besides say the lines up above the tank and that big oval gasket you guys did not replace what all can leak up there? I just want to buy everything possible before hand and replace it all including the fuel pump minus the sending unit. It's all original 608,000. Is that oval seal/gasket the only seal on the tank???? Keep up the great content!
Glad you like the videos we make. We appreciate the compliment very much.
That oval gasket for the sending unit is the only gasket for the tank. Other than that there's hose connections for the metal and rubber lines that could leak along with the lines themselves.
You have 608k on a 3.4 liter engine? That's got to be a record.
Thanks for posting this, it is invaluable information - you're the man!
As a side note, I wish my 4runner in Chicago looked like that! If changing the fuel pump is the rusty parts of the US - expect to spend a lot of time to get the 14mm fittings on the fuel line disconnected, I had to cut mine. To get the rusty sending unit out, I had to hammer on a 9/32 socket onto the bolts.... which broke the fuel gauge in the process -_-
Hey Scott, we're glad you like the video. Yeah, we're pretty spoiled in the California Bay Area. No rust issues for us. I feel for you guys in the rust belts of the country.
@1upgreenshroon ... is your T4R still on the roads there in Chicago?
Great video, you two r a good team
Thanks Damien.
One of these days i should do video of all the things you replaces. Each time I watch your videos is something I've done already. Maybe I should be your partner on the toyota. Lol I'm From Fresno
Well, maybe one day we'll beat you to the punch and perform a job before you do. You must be doing a ton of wrenching on your rig because we have a decent amount of videos out now. If you lived closer, we'd do some wrenching with you.
Timmy The Toolman yes bud we should. However most of the time these parts are need to be replace. Also I'm not the best person on fixing rides but I'm sure know what I'm doing. I learned the hard way because I'm always fixing by myself without having any help. I try looken for a bud that know what he's doing but it's hard to find. This is why I watch and don't do videos, to much time By myself. If I do like you I'll have subscriber/follower.
Great video Thank you !
Glad you like the video Josh. You're welcome.
Great channel. I am trying to diagnose an issue with my son's 3rd gen T4R w/ 3rz 4x4 m/t.... experiencing hesitation issues during acceleration, kind of gets hurky jerky, but eventually works itself out.
Maybe the throttle position sensor.
Might I add that the intro music sounds amazing in my system lol
Sean makes the intro music.
Great video great job fellas
Thanks Damien. We're glad you like it.
Everytime i watch one of your video i feel like going out and buy another truck, i have 2 tundra v6 already, now i feel like gettting a 4runner, just for the hell of it, even tho i dont need it. lol
One thing that might have been interesting is to have connected the new sending unit at that first connector you disconnected. You could have moved the sending unit through it's entire range and observed the gas level on the gauge. You could also check the ohms of the unit in the tank from low to high levels of gasoline. In this case you would have noted the same results with much less work. Thanks for the video nevertheless since it was fascinating and very useful in general.
Yes, you make some good points of what we could have done. Thanks for comment. Glad you like the video.
I can personally confirm that if you follow the instructions on the bulletin it will fix your gas gauge issue.... with an exception. My vin required that I only replace mechanical parts in the gas tank. I did NOT have to replace the gas gauge cluster. My gas gauge would never move beyond 3/4 full. After replacing parts I noticed immediately that the gas reading dropped. Filled up and calibrated. Works perfect now.
It’s been reported to us that people have had mixed success with the bulletin directions. But thanks for sharing! Glad you got your issue worked out.
Love your vids. Can you post a link for the gloves you use? Thanks for the great content.
Hey Justin, glad you like what we're doing. I buy gloves at Harbor Freight. I like the 7ml gloves because they hold up well and still offer pretty good dexterity. www.harborfreight.com/7-mil-nitrile-powder-free-gloves-50-pc-large-68505.html
Hi Timmy do you have a link where you purchased the toyota factory service manual.
Struggling to find a copy on Australia absolutely love your channel
You can usually find sets for sale on Ebay. Just do a search for your particular year.
Hey Tim, part # 77169-60010 is for that gasket seal you guys had to reuse in case someone wanted to order a new one. I don't think I saw it in your description. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for sharing this Sean. I'll add it to the video description.
im sure youve already gotten a ton of requests but ive looked everywhere on yotube but there just isnt a video on how to test the fuel rail pressure. the special service tool the manual is is unnattainable, just wanna see how yall would tap into the fuel line. the main issue is the second timing belt cover that sits behind the cam shaft pulleys, it doesnt give you much room to put a standard adapter. either way keep up the awesome content.
Some guys have found a way to tap into fuel line near the driver side fender to hook up a pressure gauge. I however don't know what fittings were used to make this happen. I would like to make a video for this. I bought some fittings that might work to hook up the pressure gauge to the fuel rail but I haven't tested it out yet. I'm going to do a valve cover gasket job and valve adjustment on a buddies rig soon. I'll see if he's cool with me disconnecting his fuel rail so I can test out my fuel pressure gauge setup.
Hey Tim, great video. I was planning on replacing the sending unit soon but wouldn't it be a good idea to replace the fuel pump at the same time? More so as preventative maintenance while the tank is down. It's a 2001 4runner.
Yes, it would be a very smart idea to replace the fuel pump while you have the tank dropped and the fuel sending unit out. Wei didn't come with a fuel pump for this job, so we didn't replace it.
I'm prepping my 99 limited 2wd V6 4Runner for this procedure. But my question is ancillary to this sensor replacement. My (newish to me) truck has no skid plate, at all. There are aftermarket ones that cover the third cross-member, the transfer-case, and exhaust pipe. Would it be sufficient to replace my missing skid plate pieces? The one I'm looking at is called a RCI Skid Plate. Thanks Timmy, love your vids. They are inspirational.
If you don't have a gas tank skid plate, you could simply try to grab a used one from a PicknPull yard off a wrecked 3rd Gen. If you want a beefier aftermarket one, I made a video of a nice one for 3rd Gens: czcams.com/video/HYBIpHCxRbg/video.html
Great video
We're glad you like it.
Timmy, Thank you again for another extremely helpful video. Just replaced the fuel pump, sending unit and fuel filter by using your videos. Bought my 99 4Runner in January and was having a fuel issue, fuel issue solved, but still getting a shudder when perform a hard acceleration at 40 mph and above. After doing some research I believe it may be the torque converter? Going to do the AT flush and fill, hopefully that works. Any suggestions?
Glad our video helped you out. I'd maybe try a drain and refill of the trans pan first. Introducing a bunch of new ATF all at once could cause issues if your trans was abused and didn't receive regular maintenance by the previous owners.
@@TimmyTheToolman Just bought the ATF, will be flushing today. Thanks
Warning to anyone who deals with salt. This job is a huge pain in the ass and you'll probably end up needing a completely new tank/sending unit/fuel pump/and sending unit assembly.
Those 8 bolts holding the sending unit assembly to the tank will be so corroded you won't be able to remove them nicely at all. This is where I ended up getting a new tank/assembly/and fuel pump.
Here's a picture of what mine looked like after dropping the tank: imgur.com/a/Av0KY
Aw man, I think that's what I'm about to tear into myself. Did a 2,000 + mile drive in my 96 Tacoma from Oklahoma to Maine, and the fuel pump gave up the ghost 60 miles from my destination. Looking at the top of the tank, I can see the rust on that fuel sending assembly. Not looking forward to it.
But did it even fix your problem or what?
Brian Pettersen Well ofc it fixed his problem, just costed more cash than he thought it would
Hey Timmy, first up, I love your channel and I've successfully done the timing belt, transmission flush, coolant flush, etc... on my 99 4Runner that I wouldn't have done otherwise!
Now, I just replaced the fuel filter, and I noticed that the top of the plastic connector to the fuel pump had been broken by a previous owner. As far as I can tell, it doesn't lock, but still sits in place and the fuel pump works just fine. However, I'm not sure if this will wiggle loose on a rough road or something, so is there a simple way of fixing that? I've checked on toyota parts direct for a part number, but I can't find the same thing.
Any ideas?
I don't think it would wiggle loose and gravity is on your side. You literally could just put a couple pieces of sticky tape over the connection as some extra insurance. If you don't like that idea, you could probably pull a plug off a wrecked rig, de-pin it, de-pin the one on your rig and then re-pin the replacement plug. I don't have experience de-pinning plugs so I can't give you any advice on how to go about do it. But, I doubt that plug could ever fall out. If it were my rig, I wouldn't worry about it.
@@TimmyTheToolman Cool, thanks a ton!!
@@danielvonhollen7322 You're welcome!
I am reading the fuel pump on vehicle inspection on SF-5 page 1321 on the FSM and it says to check H-fuse and M-fuses...what and where are those fuses? been looking around on the car, in the FSM and on some forums and cant find anything on those fuses.
Don't know exactly what they're talking about. There's a 15 amp EFI fuse in the engine compartment fuse box and there's an EFI relay in the same box. Those are the only fuses I know about.
Thank you for the video! I did the fuel pump replacement solo in under 3hrs (minus some sheared off bolt's) but that is small tator's for now. Thank's again!💪🙏🇺🇸
Btw the bolt that broke was for the skid plate mount near the strap.
You're very welcome. Good job getting it done.
Go from inside back seat a lot easier. Have to enlarge inspection hole, but a lot easier than dropping fuel tank
Uhh yeah, that's a HARD PASS to your suggestion. No freaking way I'm going to suggest someone butcher their body with cutting wheel when they can simply drop the tank. That assembly is big and bulky with the long metal tubes attached so the hole would have to be enlarged quite a bit. I've seen the butcher job one guy did his rig and the response on a Toyota Facebook page was complete carnage. The guy was ridiculed for chopping up the floor of his rig. Anyway, I'd say thanks for the suggestion, but I can't. It's a No Thanks!
Question. Are tundra trucks 2006 having problems where you run out of gas but your gauge still says you have gas. This has happened to me a couple times.
I don't know if it's a common problem with the Tundras but it could certainly happen where the fuel sending unit is working properly giving you an inaccurate reading for your fuel gauge.
Thank you
You're welcome.
Good thank you show every one
We're glad you like the video. Thanks for commenting.
hey Tim, awesome content as always, wanna ask you, i got a 97' 3rd gen 4Runner SR5 4WD auto, could use a a donnor 2000-2002 4Runner Fuel Sending Unit? mine's got idk something weird, full tank shows 3/4 too, and when it close to 1/4 tank gauge just stops right there until it gets out of fuel, few weeks ago i checked FSU and it seems contact up to full tank reading it's not making enough contact, i think last owner just swapped for a Corolla FSU instead, really appreciatte your comment buddy, really worthy content, thanks
I would think the fuel sending units would be the same for all the 3rd Gen years since they all have the same size and shape gas tank.
@@TimmyTheToolman there's it goes my doubts away, thank you very much sir
@@reiestrada9167 You're welcome. Good luck with the swap and hope it fixes your fuel gauge issue.
I'm about to drop my tank to investigate a slight fuel leak that happens when I fill up all the way. I'm suspecting it's either a bad gasket on that assembly or the gasket on the roll over valve, what do you think Timmy?
Hey Jonathan, If it's only when it's full, I'd suspect that fuel pump unit gasket at the top of the tank than my buddy Wei didn't think of buying for this job. Other than that, I'd take a good look at all the hose connections, but I would imagine the hose connections would leak all the time and not just when the tank is full. Good luck figuring it out. Get back to us and let us know what you found.
I saw a different video about the same fuel gauge problem his original float ohmed out good his problem was a bad ground issue so he added a ground from the ground wire at the tank connector to a self tapping screw close by in the same area under the seat and it fixed his problem completely maybe that will help someone in the future and save them from dropping the tank unnecessarily
czcams.com/video/KNbMq7VvpdI/video.htmlsi=cgmdw3ZHUKeXywE8
Heres the video that shows which wire is the ground
Really appreciate you taking the time to link to this video and offer an additional context for a fix. We hope this helps someone in the future in case they experience a similar situation. Happy wrenching!!!
- Sean
Hey Tim my gas tank strap broke and the front side of the tank is touching the ground (thank goodness I was just turning around in a driveway when it fell. Was wondering if or anything I have to make sure of when putting back up. For example like make sure the evap lines are connected or some sort of switch that cuts the fuel off on a 4th gen 4runner. I only ask because when it fell, I looked and everything seems to be connected but it won't start. Granted it still is hanging but shouldn't it start if everything is connected even though half of it is hanging? Not sure how the fuel cut off works? Thank you for your time!
I'm not familiar with the 4th Gen 4runner. The only job I've done on one is installing RCI skid plates. I think you have to drop the tank completely and take a look to see if anything is disconnected or broken. The wires that lead to the fuel sending unit could have gotten damaged or some other connection got damaged.
@@TimmyTheToolman I remember I think you doing a video on a frame swap? I was wondering if it's possible to drop just the frame from the vehicle without removing the engine? Ive seen sped up videos and taking the engine out seems like a lot of unnecessary work.
@nickschuldt9229 We've never done a frame swap. We lifted a body off for a V8 swap. The engine does have to be removed to drop the frame. The engine bolts to the frame with engine mounts..
@@TimmyTheToolman Is it possible to get the frame off without removing the engine? Like lift the vehicle off the ground and secure the body and hold the engine with a steel type frame that is the shape of a trapezoid so it extends to the outside of the trucks frame so you can drop the frame and pull it out and slide the new one underneath and lift it up into place? I guess I'm just wondering why? Because people keep saying that I need to remove the engine and I just want to know why. Why can't it be done without removing the engine? What is stopping everyone from not removing the engine?
@nickschuldt9229 The entire drivetrain (engine, transmission, and differentials bolt to the frame. What you're asking makes no sense. With a hydraulic rack, you could certainly lift the body off the frame. Then, you could remove the engine, transmission, both differentials, gas tank, and whatever else to strip the frame. You get the replacement frame in position and then put the drivetrain components back on. After that, you drop the body back down and connect everything. This is the best advice I can give. This is how I would do it, provided I had a hydraulic vehicle lift at my disposal.
Would you have to adjust the float to correct the fuel gauge issue?
There's no adjustment to the float unless it somehow got bent in a collision from the fuel tank getting crushed in. The fuel sending unit either works or it doesn't. For Wei's truck, we checked the ohms resistance and it checked out. The reason his gauge is off most likely is something to do with the gauge cluster.
Hey Timmy have you ever put disk breaks on the rear of a 3rd gen
Nope, but never say never.
A trick I have used for the pump screen clip is to use a small socket to press it on.
Wei actually suggested that and I should have listened to him. I think that would have worked much better than struggling with the screwdriver.
is there a fallow up video? did you get it to work? im in step by step the exact same place you are at the end of this video but i have a 98 4runner so the TSB doesnt apply... any suggestions the cheapest ive been able to find the sending unit is 150 bucks and ive dropped the tank 3 times now i dont wanna do it again with out results.
No follow-up for this unfortunately.
@@TimmyTheToolman I was able to solve my problem not sure if this will work for everyone but in a fit of fury I was going to double-check all the wires going to the fuel pump and fuel sending unit to make sure that everything was working and I used some electrical contact cleaner to get all the crime off the wire so I can see which color was which and when I plugged it back in started working no problem so it might just be inside the actual connector that goes from the wiring harness to that plate that's underneath the back seat gets real dirty. It's worth a try Good luck
@@kennykrezel8914 Good to hear the cleaning fixed your issue. You're right that's it's worth a try. Thanks for getting back to us.
can you do an upper control arm bushing replacement please?
We actually plan on doing a video for this, I just don't know when. Probably in the next month or two.
Hi;
Good video. I know it is a little old to comment. You can check the resistance on the sending unit without removing the tank. Check it at whatever the level of the tank is and then fill it. Approximate how much you actually had before filling. If the resistance is right for both levels, it is the gauge not the sending unit,
Martin
You're right, but we were assuming the sending unit had to be bad because the gauge was off. Well, I reckon we were wrong. The good thing that came out of it is people now have a detailed video of how to drop the fuel tank and remove the sending unit if the unit is bad or they had a bad fuel pump.
How good are the 3rd gen 2wd's in the snow? I found a mint 99 for $3200, but where Im at we get 38" of snow a year. I also have a 2 mile dirt road to travel, in order to reach my property.
Any suggestions on the 2wd 4runner is appreciated.
If you're dealing with that much snow and possibly a muddy dirt road, I think it's a no-brainer you go with 4 wheel drive. It could easily be the difference of stuck or not stuck in possibly really bad weather conditions. I'd also carry chains because 4 wheel drive does nothing for icy conditions.
I know when I'm in 2H in the snow I only spin my tires. 4x4 is a must for snow. It drives about as nicely as a RWD Mustang haha when you're in 2WD.
Canadian 4Runner 😂 It kicks hard to the left I take it....haha All I can think about are mustang fail videos of someone showing off. LOL
31:19 someone laughed hella loud😂
Do you have a video for testing fuel pressure? I know the Toyota method requires an SST and testing at the fuel rail. But I don't have an SST. Any help would be appreciated. Having a hard time and wasting money troubleshooting a fuel problem...
Hey Joseph, sorry we don't have a video for testing fuel pressure. I need to make one at some point.
@@TimmyTheToolman do you know what tool works to test fuel pressure? Otc kit?
@@jamaison1 I think any fuel pressure gauge would work but figuring out the right fittings to tap into fuel rail is the tricky part. I did see a Tacoma World forum thread that had suggested fittings to purchase but I haven't tried it yet.
Hey Timmy, I think the gauge wasn’t reading at full because of the the dent in the tank,
Less room to fill causing it never to read full.
Anyways I used this video to install a new feul pump ! Thanks again ! 3g4r SoCal @4x4_runner
That is a possibility for sure. Glad the video helped you out.
So from what I've read the fuel tank is 18.5 gallons in the 3rd gens right? My gauge goes from full line to empty line around 205 miles. When i fill the tank i fill about 12 gallons wich means im getting 17 mpg average. I should be able to go about 315 miles on a 18.5 gallon tank before empty but the gauge doesnt read that far? Replace sending unit?
Take a look at the video description. There's a TSB for this issue. It could also be a problem with a circuit board.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you. I will look into the circuit board. I tried recalibrate once and it didnt work. Well see how it goes
@@bradleypalmer4286 Ok, good luck and let me know how it goes.
I wish you would do more 1sr gen 4runner content
Anything specific you would like to see us do on the 1st gen platform?
@@TimmyTheToolman22re fuel filter replacement, cold start issues fix, front and rear end bearings and seals ect. Your video are very detailed they woul be a huge help
In my 1997 4Runner on a full tank of gas the pointer in the gas gauge stops right below the full line, it said it might be a grounding problem
We've heard the same possibility that it could be a grounding issue.
I had my tank dropped by a local shop to get to some areas that needed welding. Ever since then, my truck has been sputtering under load and when I let off the gas, it starts bucking. I can almost drive normally if I slowly get my truck up to speed and accelerate but any time I hit a hill, it gets bad. I'm wondering if pinching one of those fuel lines could cause this?
It's certainly a possibility that one of the hoses was damaged or kinked by the shop that did the work for you. Sounds like it would be prudent to drop the tank and check it out or take it back to the shop and make them fix their mistake.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks Tim :D
Have you done same job on a previa 1991?
How difficult is to change fuel pump?
No, we haven't done this job on a Previa so we aren't able to advise you on this. Your best bet is to see if you can get your hands on an online version of the service manual for your vehicle so you'll have the information you'll need to get the job done. Or, you could consult Toyota forums for existing threads on this subject. There's lots of information out there on the internet and I'd be surprised if you can't find what you need to perform this job.
Hello Timmy,
Ineed to replace my Fuel Tank and i found a used one in a near junk yard.
Will a '97 T4Runner Limited 4WD Fuel Tank fit on my '01 4Runner 2WD ??
Or what else models are compatible with the Tank i need for the '01 ??
I'm not 100% sure but I'm almost certain there are no differences in the fuel tanks between the 3rd Gen years 96-02.
Need some help here. I replaced my 99 gas tank with another used one. The reason was because my original tank was leaking from being so beat up from off roading. I replaced the tank and everything hooked up ok after i spent a few hours drilling out all the bolts (every single one snapped on my rusty truck). Everything works and truck runs but gas gauge is stuck under E (empty) and while driving it will bounce around a few millimeters up and down but never above E. I will assume my gas level sensor in the replacement tank is messed up (I didn't switch out the fuel pumps from tank to tank). I have tried the calibration procedure and know i have about 7 gallons of fuel in the tank currently yet I'm under E. Any suggestions? I haven't checked for ground yet or ohms but will soon. I'm assuming I'll just have to drop the tank again and put my old fuel pump in the replacement tank since everything was working fine before doing the work.
The fuel sending unit with the float is probably messed up on the replacement tank. It not really the fuel pump, per se, it's the sending unit that the fuel pump attaches to that is the issue.
hi Tim, here wandering, what's that yellow wire function? what's the specific function?
Don't know. I'd need to analyze a wiring diagram and I don't exactly like looking at them.
@@TimmyTheToolman i really apreciate your time to answer my friend, imo, maybe could be something about the evap canister valve, or just maybe something about variable mass signal to the slow reaction on the lever, idk, it's just me sharing my thoughts
@@reiestrada9167 Thanks for the input. Some have said it's the actual circuit board for the gauge cluster on the dash that's the issue.
Hey Tim, do you do private repairs ? or know of a good shop for me to take my 4runner to in the San Jose area?
Fred Mah Hey Fred, I have helped people out in the past but I'm trying not to do that as much anymore because I just don't want to spend that much time wrenching. If it's something we haven't shot a video of yet, we're usually interested in doing it. If it's something we've already made a video of, the only thing that makes it worth it is charging for my time. I don't like charging people a lot for my time so I end up doing hours of labor for not much money.
So, long story short, I really don't want to be a paid mechanic. I just want to make videos and help people out in that way. What is the work you need? If it's something we haven't shot a video about, Sean and I might be interested.
Hey Tim! Thanks for the reply. So scrolling through your uploads and the only work I have that you haven't made a video of is I believe inner and outer tie rods? If that is something you would like to do let me know.
I completely understands about the whole spending time wrenching part, I really appreciate that you took the time to reply! Do you know of a good shop in the area at least ? that you would recommend ?
We would be interested in the inner and outer tie rod replacement. It's not something we could get to right away but maybe in a month or two. I have a pretty long list of things I'm going to be doing and filming with my 98 4runner coming up and that will take priority over anything new we take on.
There was a place called Foreign Affair I use to bring my Honda Accord to for service years ago that was really good but I haven't used them in a long time. They were a good honest shop. You might want to check them out. Other than that, maybe just do a Yelp search for shops that get good reviews from their customers.
Sounds great, that actually works out because I purchased the tie rods from Japan and it will take about a month for shipping anyway. I will take care of the Rear Axel leak at the shop, thanks for the info and help Tim!
You should try to see if it’s a bad ground. Mine did the exact same thing and it was a poor ground somewhere. Just made a new one and spliced into the harness under the seat and I was good again!
You can also diagnose if you have a bad float by using a volt meter and checking the resistance reading as the float goes up and down. I did this exact same thing and realized my donor one wasn’t going to fix the problem. Try that and let me know if that works for wei. I can check what wire I spliced on the harness if you need help.
Minh Bui Yeah, I'd like to know what wire you spliced into to create the new ground. We did test the ohms resistance on the donor sending unit and the one in his tank with a multimeter. When we saw they had the same results, we pretty much guessed the donor unit wasn't going to fix his problem.
I would also like to know. Timmy, new video??
I found my post on t4r. it's a bit buried in the search results. It's the black/brown wire on that connector. www.toyota-4runner.org/2429457-post16.html. Literally just tapped into it anywhere along that harness and grinded down some metal and put a ring terminal under. No one will see it. Worked perfectly for at least 1.5 years now.
and definitely do a follow up video if it worked!
Is there a drain plug for the fuel tank? My runner has been sitting for awhile (1-2 years) and need to drain the fuel. I've heard of some guys disconnecting the fuel filter and giving the pump 12 volts and just wait for it to pump out into a bucket of some sort. Is there any other way to get rid of the old fuel?
Hey Ernie, there is no drain plug. If it were me, I'd just drop the tank. Here's a video that shows how to go about dropping it.
czcams.com/video/GrzX_K-jcuo/video.html
had yto drain the deisel out my ford once at the dealer they did just that unhooked the fuel line and turned the ignition on until it was empty
@@NeBoFoRiOn Thanks for the reply. I would try this if I ever had to drain old fuel out.
@@TimmyTheToolman So say if a 3.4 motor has been sitting for 4 to 6 months without being started, currently will not start. Drain the old fuel (most likely bad gas don't you think) out by running the fuel pump or just go ahead and drop the tank to check things out? Replace the fuel filter, anything else to look at?
im soon droopin my tank but to repair a rusted cross member an shock mount conection its bad on the tank side cant wait lol
Good luck getting the job done. Sorry you have so much rust issues to deal with. Happy Wrenching!
If fuel tank is on the passenger side, is it safe to assume that power lines are still located under rear back seat, on the passenger side? Its a little confusing seeing the video because i have a 3 Gen and the fuel tank is opposite of your video..
Where do you live? Is this a Hilux version? On all 3rd Gens I know of, the fuel tank is on the driver side. But, if your tank is on the passenger side, I would assume the wiring for the fuel pump and fuel sending unit would also be routed on the passenger side.
When r u gonna give us a tour of your garage
Hey Omar, my garage is mostly filled with bicycles and other stuff. Nothing too exciting unless you're interested in bicycles. My garage leaves a lot to be desired as a space to work on vehicles but I make it work. I just have too many things stuffed in the there. If I get rid of some bicycles and other stuff, it would be a more useful garage to wrench in.
My problem is, the truck died as I was leaving on a trip and the tank is full (about 15 gallons left). I need to drop it to replace the fuel pump that crapped out. I can't run the car to burn off the gas and I can't use the fuel pump to empty the tank. I can use a transmission jack to lower the full tank ( about 100 lbs) but that seems risky. Any suggestions to empty the tank?....and if you can't get the new tank gasket, could you use some RTV or silicone or something?
The only way I can think of to get the tank empty is to use some type of siphon or pump with a very long hose to get most of the fuel out and transfer it to jerry cans.
I would buy the tank gasket from your local Toyota dealer parts department. It can't be that expensive. I personally wouldn't use RTV.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for the answer. I didn't see it until just now. I replaced the fuel pump today and it runs great, however, the gas gauge, which worked when I started, is stuck on Full. .. I noticed the "bucket" you mentioned inside the fuel tank... does that sending unit float go Inside that bucket or outside the bucket? I didn't pay attention when I took the assembly out. That could be my problem. - by the way, I disconnected the filler hose at the tank and was able to siphon from that location. I appreciate the help... Your videos are always fantastic.
@@wildmustangart1577 The sending unit float goes inside the bucket.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks! Keep up the good work!
@@wildmustangart1577 You're welcome Steve. We will keep cranking out the videos. Happy Wrenching!
Question: I filled up my main and sub tank and without touching the sub button it loses about 25% after a few days off roading. Don't notice any fuel smells or leaks. What's up?!
I'm guessing there's not a possibility that someone is siphoning the gas if you're out on an off-roading trip. There has to be a leak somewhere. Maybe it leaks only when you're moving and the gas is sloshing around. Does it keep leaking past a 25% loss or does it stabilize at that level? If it stabilizes, I would suspect the source of the leak is on the upper part of the tank and once the level drops below that area, the leak stops. Maybe fill it up and then jump up and down on the back of the rig to get the gas sloshing around and then check if you can smell or see a leak.
whats the part number for the sending unit? i just got my tank open and the part that toyota gave me looks very different
Don't know the part number. It sounds like they gave you the wrong one unless Toyota updated the design.
@@TimmyTheToolman apparently they did update the part. It mounts in a different way as well. All good 👍
@@djrodriguez6582 Glad you figured it out.
Wish I had come across this video sooner!!!!!! I have an 2002 4Runner with 365k (OG owner) and I just dropped the tank after a tweaker punctured it to get the gas out. I am replacing the tank along with seals. My question is, should I go ahead and replace the fuel pump as well?
I would probably go ahead and replace the fuel pump and filter with the miles you have on your rig. The fuel pumps do fail and this would prevent you from having to drop the tank a second time if it does fail. I can't believe some asshole punctured your tank. I hope karma pays a visit that dirtbag. Good luck with the job.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you sir! I figured this would be the case. Mother-efers took both catalytic converters as well, replaced with decent after market. Hoping to get another 5 years off this beast.
@@react1200 I hope those dirtbags die in a firery crash. I truly hate thieves.
@@TimmyTheToolman Any thoughts on the valve assembly? Should I replace as well?
@@react1200 Are you talking about the fuel sending unit with the float?
you're right and I was wrong. I thought I remembered not having to take tank off but you have to cut floor in back seat floor, sorry.
No worries Charles. Luckily dropping the tank isn't all that hard.
Had a ground issue at the battery which caused the gas gauge to slam to empty after a few seconds....and then the low fuel indicator would blink. Fixed the ground and the problem went away. Figured this out after changing the sending unit. But, if changing the sending unit doesn’t help, check the grounds in the truck.
I remember we heard this as well and Wei did check the grounds and they were good. We think it's the dash cluster is the issue.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks man, I spoke too soon. It came back. Swapping the cluster tomorrow with my sons 2000 to see if it is the cluster. Will let you know.
@@heatmyzer9 Good luck and let me know how it goes.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks and I fixed it. The gauge is back to normal....at least so far. On an old T4R post, there is a picture of a burned out board component on the back of the cluster board. It is labeled as L9...I think it is an inductor. Mine looked ok, but it tested as open (infinite resistance). I don’t have any inductors laying around so I soldered in a 1 ohm resister. And voila, it worked. Have no idea how sketchy this is, but I do know it fixed it from a practical perspective. No more blinking fuel light , no needle smashing low. If you have contacts you might find out if there is some way to swap L9 with like for like....vs a 1 ohm resistor. Just an FYI, for entertainment purposes only....but was effective.
Hey Timmy. I have a 1999 Toyota 4 Runner SR-5, RWD. My runner cranks but doesn’t start. I changed my fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs, and cable, and still same result, runner cranks but doesn’t start. Any idea on what the issue is? Your feedback is much appreciated.
There's lots of possibilities. It could be a bad MAF sensor. It could be a bad igniter. It could be a bad crank position sensor or maybe a bad cam position sensor. Did you get any CEL codes? Does it come close to starting and then stutters and dies or it just cranks and you get absolutely nothing?
@@TimmyTheToolman I did not get any codes and the runner cranks and does absolutely nothing. I did take it for an oil change at a dealership 3 weeks ago, than the problems started.
I also changed the MAF sensor with a denso about a year ago, so we can probably rule that out
@@JA-xr6gr I wonder if it was a coincidence that it happened after the oil change or did they somehow screw something up. I don't know what you could do during an oil change to mess with the function of the engine.
@@JA-xr6gr Have you confirmed the spark plugs are getting power?
Do you have the part number for that green replacement fuel filter? I can't seem to find that. What is it called?
www.amazon.com/Denso-952-0006-Fuel-Pump-Filter/dp/B00169G43G
Timmy The Toolman
You rock dude. Thank you so much for your videos and all the help.
No problem Bro. Glad you've found our channel helpful. Pay it forward in the DIY Mechanic Community by helping somebody with a repair or share your knowledge with somebody on a Toyota forum. Happy Wrenching!
Do u have a video on how to test fuel pressure?
Not yet Pat, but maybe soon.
No easy way to tap into the gas line on the 5vz....need to find a mod to install a fitting for quick connection
You're the man timmy
@@patryder8896 That would be nice. The factory service manual shows hooking up a fuel pressure tester to the driver side fuel rail.which takes a little work to get to.
So I watch this one small time CZcamsr mention one of the common issues with the gas sending unit not reading accurate. Apparently it’s common for the ground wire to minimal to small corrosion and therefore shorting the fuel gauge system. So by connecting a new ground and doing THE BIG 3 it solve the issue for his scenario. I’m almost tempted to try it on mine. However fuel gauge tends to read slowly so I won’t know if it fixes that minor issue too.
Hey Daniel, where is this ground wire you're talking about?
Timmy The Toolman He ended up wire tapping into ground coming from driver side passenger to reground it. Right where the hatch door, the ground sending unit. He just made this video seen (here) czcams.com/video/KNbMq7VvpdI/video.html
Timmy The Toolman if it’s not the continuity or the Ground than it possibly could be the sending unit for most guys.
@@ndeeeed thanks for the reminder! if that hack saves me from replacing combo board #3 on my affected '99 (TSB EL010-00) it would be a big deal.
Does this apply to a 2nd gen?
We're not familiar with 2nd Gens but I would assume the fuel sending unit is also in the fuel tank. They are different generations so the steps to taking it apart won't be exact but they will be similar.
1999. 4Runner is 3rd generation? Please let me know. Thanks
Yes, it is.
Timmy The Toolman oh! Sir thank you. I have the same problem. Thanks a lot.
I felt strange when I noticed fuel gauge that won't reduce or move anymore after I spent 25 miles while driving. Please advise me what problem.
It could be the fuel sending unit but I've also heard there is circuit board problem that could cause it as well. We provide a link to a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) in the video description. Take a look at that. If the link doesn't work, just do a Google search for that TSB #.
@@TimmyTheToolman oh. thank you for your advise.
Why not buy a new fuel gauge sender. I brought my from gauge sender at a Toyota dealership for $130. Got my fuel gauge fixed!
Buying new is always an option but buying used can save significant money. But, it takes time to pull the fuel sending unit so $130 isn't bad.
How long take it to replace fuel spending unit?
Depends on how fast you work Juan. But, I'd say 3 hours is about right if nothing fights you.
@@TimmyTheToolman I am interested. Thank you for your reply. Cheers.
@@xpacmaner23 You're welcome Juan.
Any way to drain the tank prior to dropping it ?
You could try siphoning. You drop a tube through the filler pipe into the tank and then suck on the tube to create a vacuum until fuel starts flowing. Look up how to siphon and you'll figure it out.
@@TimmyTheToolman I have tried to siphon with an electric pump. There are at least two obstructions preventing the tube from going down into the tank, I was able to get past the first but not the second. I was thinking you could possibly attach a hose to the output of the fuel pump and energize the pump to get gas into a proper container, hopefully without overheating the pump. I don't see any other way, but maybe someone can provide some other ideas also. Thanks for the reply. I have enjoyed your videos for several years. 1997 4Runner LTD.
@@TheSalient0ne just forget about siphoning and lower the tank as is. If you support if with a transmission jack that has a nice wide lifing plate it can easily handle the weight. If you don't have a trans jack, use a piece of plywood between the jack plate and tank to dispurse the load you so you don't dent the tank.
Hey whats up man? My name is Nick and i own a 97 4runner limited. I recently had some problems. First off, i have replace all ignition coils, spark plugs/wires. I have replaced the fuel filter and pump. But i am not able to get it to stay on. It will crank and eventually turn over but kill. I dont know what the problem might be. Man any insight is Greatly appreciated!!! Thank you in Advance!
Are you getting any CEL codes?
@@TimmyTheToolman No CEL codes
@@bignick70812 How did this issue start? Was it all of a sudden it wouldn't run, or was it running rough and then ended up where it is now?
@@TimmyTheToolman One day i was driving and i started to lose power at a red light. I had to get out and push my car into a Dollar General parking lot. I tried it again and It was running at idle but then it started to slowly kill over everytime i cranked it. I almost thought it was the transmission because it was hard to maintain speed. Eventually, i had to get a tow truck to bring me to the house. Months prior to this, i replaced to ignition coils, spark plugs/wires. Im gonna drop the tank again tomorrow and test it again.
And i also replaced the old IAC valve with a new one from Autozone. See, i was working deliveries for dominos but quit because it was kicking my car's ass. Sometimes, i would have to keep going to the gas station because i would be low on fuel.
So if he did it at the yard, high chances is that he already knows how to do it. I wonder if he got help only because tooling and equipment
Wei decided to do it with me because he's my friend and he knew I would want to make a video of it to share with the world on our channel. Wei is a competent DIY mechanic but it never hurts to have an extra set of hands.
@@TimmyTheToolman good point brother
Maybe the yard then in the tank is bothering the sending unit ?
Maybe but we suspect it's the gauge cluster is the problem.
Seems like you could have made the resistance check before pulling the tank all the way off. Would have saved a lot of time & work.
You can't operate the float with the sending unit in the tank. You can't remove the sending unit unless the tank is out. This is why we dropped the tank.
@@TimmyTheToolman HA HA All you need do is take a resistance reading when the tank is near empty and then fill it up and take another or visa versa.
@@ramtek2702 Yeah, I guess you're right. If Wei was able to gauge his fuel to end up at my house after his 50 mile drive with a very empty tank, we could have taken a reading, driven to the gas station, filled it, went back to my place, and took another reading, we could have done it like you said. But, that didn't happen. We did it the way we did it and I guess for anyone that needs to know how to drop the tank, they're thankful we did it that way and filmed it.
@@TimmyTheToolman And that includes me. It's an excellent tutorial. I have subscribed.
I swapped mine with a new pump, filter and sending unit and it didn't fix it. Idk either
I think it's actually a problem with the gauge cluster on the dash.
@@TimmyTheToolman tsb said my truck cleared that based off of the Vin but I think you're right... Or I gotta change the bracket... That's the only thing I didn't change other than the cluster.
@@bakernicholas123 If you finally figure out the fix, please respond back and let me.know so I can learn from your experience.
@@TimmyTheToolman will do!
i think i would of change the pump also while i had everything down and off the truck
That wouldn't be a bad idea.
you can get to the sender through the body right?
No, you cannot unless you plan on making a huge, and I mean huge cut in your body to get it out through the top. Start watching the video at 24:40 play time and you'll see how big the assembly is with the metal hard lines attached to the top of the unit. So Dude, I'm really not trying to be a dick when I say this, but your question would have been easily answered if you watched the video. To give you some perspective, we try to answer every question and acknowledge every comment that comes in on our channel and that can take significant time depending on the day. But, I have to admit that I do get annoyed when somebody's question would have been answered if they just watched the video. Sometimes they ask a question about a small detail that I can see they could have easily missed and I don't have a problem answering that question. But, we spent a fair amount of time in this video with that sending unit in our hands and it would have been hard to miss the enormous size of it if the person just watched the video. So Dude, please do me a favor and watch our videos all the way through, but also check the video description and look for a pinned comment before asking a question. Quite often a person's question could have been answered if they #1 - watched the video, #2 - read the video description, or #3 - read our pinned comment. People quite often miss reading our video descriptions and also miss our pinned comments and we provide helpful information in both areas. Happy Wrenching.
Terminology: Bent JAW Needle Nose Pliers. (Now you know!)
You're kidding right? You took the time to make that comment? Look up the term i used, "Bent Nose Needle Nose Pliers" and you'll find links to the needle nose pliers we used in the video. 90 Degree Bent Nose Needle Nose Pliers would have been more accurate for me to say. So, Marc, I shake my head in bewilderment why someone like yourself would watch this informative video and this is all you can say about it. How about the kick ass job we just did showing people how to drop the fuel tank on their 3rd Gen 4runner? If this is all you got for us, do us a favor and troll somewhere else. We got better things to do than respond to worthless comments like yours.