How to make a good "Pain Rustique" I Taught by Bread industry legend Toshio Nihei.
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- čas přidán 25. 04. 2023
- For more information on Toshio Nihei's bread making techniques, please click here.
Donq: The Road to Bon Pain with Toshio Nihei
asahiya-jp.com/book/978475111...
【Toshio Nihei】
Toshio Nihei was born in Kanagawa Prefecture in 1947 and joined Donq Co. Since his training in France in 1983, he has been active in internal and external seminars, and has made efforts to teach and support young Japanese bakers who go to global competitions.
He was in charge of the bread for the dinner at the G7 Climate and Energy Environment Ministerial Meeting held in Sapporo in April 2023. He is called a legend by bakers in the bread industry for his overwhelming technical skills and wealth of knowledge.
【Raymond Calvel】
Professor at the French National School of Flour Milling (ENSMIC), born in Tarn, France.
In 1954, he stayed in Japan for three months and held international baking workshops at 17 venues across the country, introducing authentic French bread to Japan. At that time, Donq's president Yukio Fujii began exchanges with Raymond Calvel. Donq has been learning orthodox French bread from Professor Carvel and spreading it in Japan since then.
【Pain Rustique】
A bread made from baguette dough without kneading.
The following is a recipe for Pain Rustique that Mr. Nihei saw at Gérard Meunier's store in Paris, France, in 1983.
［Ingredients]
Lys D'or: 100%.
Semi-dry yeast Red: 0.2
Salt: 1.8
Euro malt: 0.2
Water: 78 + 2 (30℃) %
［Process]
・Mixing by hand
Dissolve salt and malt in the cold water. Dissolve the semi-dry yeast in the warm(30°C) water. sprinkle in the semi-dry yeast. After dissolving, mix all the ingredients to finish the process. In terms of the mixing stage, hand mixing is completed at the "pick-up" stage (not hand kneading).
・Kneading temperature
23-24°C
・Fermentation
1 hour after mixing, punch the dough and refrigerate overnight. The next morning, remove from the refrigerator and fold it 3 times twice. When the temperature of the center of the dough reaches 15℃ or higher, fold the dough a second time. If necessary, the dough is folded a third time 30-40 minutes later. Cut the dough 30-40 minutes after the last folding.
・Fermentator
Heat the dough for 15-50 minutes depending on the condition of the dough.
・Baking
Raise the temperature of the upper level of the oven above the baking temperature of baguette before baking. Lower the temperature to the same point as the lower part of the oven when starting the baking. Turn on steam. (If the oven's heat storage capacity is low, the dough will not grow upward.)
【Chef Nihei's explanation (the part not included in the video)】
Why do you think "Lys D'or" is the best for "Pain Rustique" and "Baguette"?
"Lys D'or" is a product marketed by Nisshin Flour Milling that "pursues the taste and aroma of traditional baguette," and is a flour named by Professor Raymond Calvel. It has the lowest protein and highest ash content of all the flours dedicated to French bread sold commercially in Japan.
After testing more than 10 different types of pure flours, including those from Kyushu, Kanto, and Hokkaido, in his "Pain Rustique", Nihei found "Lys D'or" to be the most delicious, and continues to use it.
Japanese people prefer chewy texture, so much so that wheat varieties (low-amylose) are in high demand, but French wheat is not low-amylose, so Nihei does not use 100% domestic wheat for his baguettes. He would also like to use French wheat for his baguettes, but does not because of the very high tariffs set on wheat. The prices are already high even with the use of domestic wheat. Using imported wheat from France results in even higher prices.
As a result, the price of baguettes will be higher, but he believes that baguettes are bread for daily consumption and should be affordable.
Reasons for adding malt
In France, the use of vitamin C in breads called "Pain Traditionnelle" is prohibited, but malt is allowed.
To make baguettes with unsweetened dough, the enzyme alpha amylase is needed to break the sugar chain of the starch in the flour at the initial stage of dough making. However, ordinary wheat lacks this enzyme, so it is necessary to supplement it by adding malt.
Courtesy of the venue (Special Thanks):
Boulangerie L'ESSENTIEL
Filming and Editing： REIYA Watanabe
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I am a bakery from South. Korea. I read his book 'Bon pain'. He is a legend baker. Thank you for this precious video of him. I always wanted to watch him baking.
お金払って講義聞くぐらいの貴重なお話ありがとうございます。
何にも入ってない事はない。夢と希望が詰まっている！感動します。
名言ですよね。
It's amazing to me how generous he is with the information. Everything is so clear, especially with the great camera work :-). Thank you for this!
For those in the United States who would like to try this recipe, it might be helpful to know that if you don't want to spend a lot of money on imported Lys D'Or flour, you can still make a decent version of Pain Rustique with American flour. But keep in mind that Lys D'Or is a highly refined flour of average strength, at 10.7% protein and .45% ash. In the above recipe, master Nihei uses an 80% hydration, resulting in a very slack dough which requires lots of flour and careful handling. A typical American bread flour would be a bit strong for this recipe and might require more water. Even an ordinary all-purpose flour in the U.S., at something closer to 11.5% protein, is stronger than Lys D'Or and will absorb more water. Another thing to keep in mind is that even using the typical methods for introducing steam or water vapor into a home oven, you will not be able to replicate the results of a commercial oven. Pain Rustique is not the sort of bread that can be baked in a Dutch oven. Watanabe does not give oven temperatures or times. A good starting point for loaves of this size would be 450° F. on a well pre-heated baking stone. Although professor Calvel created this recipe to avoid the price controls imposed by the French government on baguettes, (a case of socialism spurring innovation), it really isn't all that unique. In fact, it resembles ciabatta in terms of its hydration and the lack of shaping.
As I was watching his method, I thought, Oh this is essentially how I made ciabatta while I was the in house baker for a restaurant. I typically used AP flour for that recipe, as well, or part AP/part bread flour. Steam was my biggest issue- I was using standard, still restaurant ovens, so I experimented with preheating trays and spray bottles , which worked the best. I really cranked those ovens to the max! Thank you for posting this - very inspiring.😊
@@kirby7379 Hi! Do you have a ciabatta recipe for the home baker that you could recommend or share? Thank you.
@@sallyhu5028 A ciabatta is very similar, just a bit flatter and shaped like a slipper as the name suggests. I suggest you try the Pain Rustique as in the video. The dough is quite wet and tricky to work with. Here's a scaled down version, adapted for home baking:
Pain Rustique
• 500 g Bread Flour
• 1 g instant yeast (about ¼ tsp.)
• 9 g salt
• 50 g water
• 350 g water
80% Hydration
Procedure:
1. Measure out the flour into a large mixing bowl.
2. Dissolve the salt in the 50 g of water.
3. Dissolve the instant yeast in the remaining water.
4. Add the liquid ingredients to the flour. Mix by hand until fully hydrated and at the “pick up” stage (see video). Dough should be about 75° F.
5. Cover and rest for 1 hour.
6. Do one stretch/fold on a well floured board. Transfer to an oiled, covered container and refrigerate overnight.
7. Next day, remove from the fridge. Dump the dough onto a floured surface and do a stretch/fold. Return to the covered container.
8. When the dough temp reaches 60° F., about 1-1.25 hours, do another fold as before.
9. Do a third such fold after 30-40 minutes.
10. Rest 30-40 minutes and turn out onto a well floured surface. Pre-heat the oven to 450° F. Gently stretch the dough out into a rectangle. Cut into two rectangular pieces. Flour well. Place on a sheet of parchment, cover with a cloth and let proof for 30-40 minutes.
11. Transfer the dough, still on the parchment, to a pizza peel or the back of a large baking sheet. Do not score. Bake with steam 10 minutes. Turn the heat to 445°, vent some steam and continue baking for another 25m.
@man0sticks Thank you! Over and over.
I am overwhelmed by your generosity. Thank you for taking the time not only to respond but to share your recipe!
For me, the most challenging part about working with high hydration baguette is the rolling out phase. So working with a high hydration artisan bread is a welcome change.
I can hardly wait to give this a go! Thank you again! 🙏🏻
Legend. Perfecto.
Thank u so much for this rare video!!!! Learnt so much! & Now I finally know why DonQ bread is different…. He must have taught them some great skills….
貴重なお話、映像をありがとうございます
出来上がりの画像から美味しさが伝わってきます
👏👏🎏🎏🎏
Compliments! Thank you!
Your channel is a gold mine - thank you so much for sharing all these stories to us !! You are making us travel through your videos
안녕하세요
자세한 설명 잘 보았고요
앞으로 좋은 제빵 기술 많이 올려 주세요
그리고 항상 건강 하세요
Fascinating! I absolutely love your channel. Thank you!
이렇게 귀한 영상 올려주셔서 너무 감사드립니다.. ほんとうに、ありがとうございます
很精彩
Amazing
仁瓶先生は私が尊敬してる方です。是非、また動画お願い致します。
Hola!! Soy una fanática de la masa madre y de tus vídeos! He aprendido tanto del pan viéndolos!! Gracias por compartirlo.. Leticia desde Córdoba, Argentina.
貴重な動画と詳しい解説、ありがとうございます！感動です。
Wonderful recipe for this bread that looks so delicious!
Отлично ,а вкус !
This was absolutely wonderful to watch! Thank you!!
こんにちは、二瓶さんを久しぶりに拝見しました。
I've been enjoying your videos. I love artisan bread, and it's a pleasure to watch skilled bakers at work. As someone who also makes home-made bread, it was interesting and informative to see a demonstration of methods, complete with a explanation both from the baker and detailed show notes. I look forward to trying this recipe myself.
Thanks so much! Please try it!
Parabéns!
Wow beautiful 😍
凄い・・・
magnificently
👏👏👏
Would love to try pain rustique! If this amazing baker owns a bakery in Japan?
👍
🙏❤👍
Спасибо за рецепт! Подскажите, евросолод - это красный или белый солод?
東の仁瓶、西の高原って言われてる時代がありました
心から、ご冥福をお祈りします...
can you give the amount for 1 bread?
Comment obtenir une levure naturelle réussie
Although this recipe uses commercial yeast instead of a natural levain, there are numerous sources on CZcams for instructions on how to create your own sourdough starter, lievito madre, or whatever the French call it. But the easiest way is to get some from a friend who already has a starter. Starters need to be fed on a regular basis so most home bakers, who don't bake every day, end up discarding excess starter every time they feed. You could use someone else's discard to create your own starter. Just feed it, like a stray cat, and it will be yours.
Lindos pães. Delícias 😋
仁瓶利夫
هل يمكن عجنه بالعجانه الكهربائية
二瓶は亡くなった。ご冥福をお祈りします