Tom makes everything look so easy. I might have taken similar steps but there would have been a whole lot more cursing, some yelling, 5 trips to the store. Then defending myself to my wife all night on how I wasn't mad, its just part of the process.
I am a lucky sister to have a brother that knows so much and has rebuilt my old house into a nice home and even though he is 72 years old he helps me on anything I need done.
He has forgotten more than most will ever know. Tommy is the Betty White ot construction; Very rarely do you find a person that both amatures and professionals alike agree on their knowledge and ability.
The two part expanding foam is a slick solution. I've never seen that one before, but will sure use it in the future for this kind of repair. Thank you. Tom, you always make difficult tasks look easy.
I won't ever use that expanding foam again, definitely not for a fence post holding up a gate. Reason I say that is I used it for a mailbox post and the box got bumped slightly and the foam compressed a bit and the post was no longer solid in the ground. I can't imagine it lasting that long for a post holding a gate that is opened and closed a lot.
One thing you should be sure to do if you use the foam is to pour it onto the post, otherwise it'll expand onto the post but not bind to it. The extended directions on Sika's website are pretty explicit about it, but I don't recall if the bag mentions it, too.
Expanding foam is not a quick fire solution for all fences. If your fence posts have to endure the wind beating against a closed leaf panel, then the foam will compress laterally. That wind can force your fence and attached post back and forth like you were shaking it. In concrete it would never move except with the natural give of the wood. In foam the tiny air pockets collapse as the cell walls rip and tear, making millions of tiny void spaces held in tension by the trapped air, a larger pocket, with air escaping and the pockets permanently deformed. Rendering what the foam was holding no longer tightly held. A second point. Not all foam is created equal. If foam is desired then choose one that as it stops setting, does not shrink. Foam undergoes a reaction to set that involves heat that causes foam to expand. When it cools, it does not shrink, but rather deflates. This can result in the inner holding area of the foam to shrink into its center mass which if you imagine a doughnut, it not where the center hole is, but in upon itself. So it will loosen its grip on the post it’s holding and the wall of the hole you dug and poured the foam into. Foam can be used, but if the work you are doing is intended to be placed under load, outdoors in weather conditions that you need your posts to resist… foam is not the best choice.
It's not a trick, just a product. Otherwise you can call everything a trick.... toilet paper, laundry detergent, the vacuumcleaner.. But i think the weight of concrete is what makes a good foundation, foam is exactly missing that.
@@Engineer9736 ... if you are not in a hurry, you can dump a half bag of dry gravel mix into each post hole and add some water after the fact. Ground moisture will do the rest and the following weekend you can hang the fence. Now you have the added weight, the added size of the concrete, and no sloppy concrete to clean up.
Used the expanding foam on posts for my deck last summer. It was perfect for what we needed to do. Recommend that product he used very highly and it's very easy to use once you get used to it.
The house side gate post with the blocking: anybody know to what that through post bolt is attached? Tommy mentions concrete, I assume concrete wall? Doesn’t seem likely he drilled the masonry, then bolted through the post. Cmon TOH, that’s a big skip. Ah. Now I see this just a standoff, to stop the post from leaning towards the house. With a new gate and reset hinge post, the febce can be made push wedge tight against the house
Tommy, You are sure a welcome site to us out there wondering how you are doing. Looks like you’re doing great AND still helping us homeowners with little DIY repair projects. On this one, I especially liked the custom inside braces you made! Thanks!
GREAT VIDEO!!! I’ve been putting off squaring two big sagging gates and Tom’s corner details is something I hadn’t thought of but is the perfect structural fix to the sagging problems!!! Thanks so much from Canada.
I remember watching This Old House on PBS when I was a kid in the early 90s. We recently bought a home that was built around the same time and I am so grateful that these videos exist because they have saved me tens of thousands of dollars on repairs.
I'm not sure if this is in any way correct and probably not the best way to set posts but years ago I set some posts by shoveling dry Quick-Crete and gravel in the post hole around the posts for a chicken wire fence and then I just added water and left it. The posts lasted 20 years before rotting at ground level so I guess it was an ok way to set them, huh? 😄
What a nice job! ❤️ Those corner brackets match the gate style perfectly. I never knew about the foam stuff. I need to remember that for when I reset my mailbox post. I've been a fan for many, many years. I'm happy to know you guys are still out there helping people learn how to do home improvements. Thanks for sharing and for teaching me something new! 👍 😊
All these guys on TOH make things look so easy because they are so knowledgeable. I wish Norm Abrams was still doing New Yankee Workshop he is another master craftsman.
Take pictures/vids of the kids swinging on the gate..... let it sag.... take more pics/vids.... You'll love those pic/vids a few years from now:) Fix that gate later....:)
I think you can speed the weathering by using vinegar. I remember seeing a video a while back where people would spritz an apple cider/steel wool solution on wood to oxidize (and grey) it faster.
@@TheChupacabra One could mitigate the darkening risk by a dilute solution of the resultant oxidant but yes, I agree. Takes a bit of work to predict with accuracy how the wood will respond. It might look good today, but it might look ghastly in a year. Leaving it to the UV radiation and weathering seems to be the safe route.
@@ALAPINO when you say oxidant you presumably mean iron acetate as opposed to the acetic acid? Still tricky to guess effect from calculating concentration of reagents. Think your best bet is to test on a hidden area (and heat if needed, depending on season)
@@TheChupacabra It's been a long time since chem, but I think my main point should have been more clear as I am a layman: go with a weaker anything. Or yes, absolutely, test on scraps. Personally, I'm not all that a fan of ferric acetate stains for outdoor projects. They just don't ever seem to weather in a pleasing way. But obviously, that's just my experience on the east coast with our species' and our weather. In this case, since the homeowner called TOH to square a gate and reset a post I don't think he's going to care about waiting for Tommy's repair to weather in. (Frankly, it looks great as is)
Looks like the old man knows what he is doing 🤞 and the best part I liked apparently he fixed for free 😜 cuz he only shake hand and said was glad to fix it . Didn’t said here is you bill or you owe me this amount 👌😜🤣
I’d suggest not topping the post hole with dirt. It will speed up the post rot. I’d put in enough foam to come above ground level, and then use a knife or something to trim and taper the top foam away from the wood so water drains away toward surrounding earth.
Tom, you know best. I really like that expandable foam material. I haven’t seen it around my area, We have clay soil and moisture problems on fence post bottoms. My approach has been to coat the in-ground portion of wooden posts using asphalt and then wrap them in aluminum flashing to protect against moisture and rot - especially at the soil line. The coated and protected portaron is then cemented into the ground, leaving about 4-inches of the coated portion above grade. That seems to give long life to fence posts in our type of soil. In you application, I think it might have been good to have made a wrap from flashing - all the way to ground level - and then pour in the foam stuff - and top with some cement and TLC sloping of the cement to avoid standing water around that post. Enjoyed your demonstration. BTW many years ago I think you and the TOH crew were at the beach bar at the Fountainbleau Hotel in Miami Beach?
Tommy feels like that great uncle who teaches you how to fix your carburetor and gives you your first beer at 18 while you watch the Bears - Packers game. Good ol uncle Tommy, he was a goodfella.
I am curious as to why Tommy didn't incorporate the use of some adhesive in holding the gate square. And the foam, very short term solution. To last 8-10 more years concrete would have been a better choice.
That was painful to watch on the lag, but him driving those deck screws into the gate with underpowered cabinet drills makes a lot of sense...you get more control.
@@cup_and_cone Yeah that is true, a big 18v impact wouldve pulled the screw through the gussets But i spose if i were paid to use free festool drills ide power my car with them
Also it’s funny to picture this guy, I neeeed help Tommy please!! Shouldn’t he just make a fist, raise it over his head and bring down the force of Thor’s hammer into the top of the post. 6 inches shorter, but now a rock solid post.
Silly question but his bolt through the left post into the bracket he cut….did it also go into the wall? What is keeping it tight when the gate is open and not leaning in?
Hi I'm really hoping you could help me. I love you guys use to watch your show every weekend.. I'm building a hope chest for my daughter from oak and outdoor planters for my son with old pallets. I was wondering which glue to use.. I was going to use gorilla for the all pieces but now I'm second guessing as there is so much negative reviews about it. I hear titebond might be okay but its very expensive and for the life of me I cant find it anywhere right now as its sold out in Canada where I am ... much appreciated please and thank you
Karen, the TOH web team rarely reads or replies to comments but I can try to help if you'd like. Gorilla glue (normal stuff, expanding polyurethane glue) is decent stuff when used correctly and on the right applications. I find it just expires quickly and I suspect bad reviews are from misuse or an expired bottle. Also, by its expanding nature, it's messier than traditional wood glue. Now, having said that, according to testing done by wood engineering nerd Matthias Wandel: wood glue made by Gorilla brand performs well. He's in Canada as well, so availability for him should be relatively similar to you. If you have a little time I recommend watching Matthias Wandel's video from one week ago entitled, "Which glue is strongest? Testing with my computerized tester." and Project Farm's video entitled, "Which Wood Glue is Best? Let's find out!..." You can skip to the end to see a summary of their findings in both videos or watch in full to see the test samples as they are tested. You can form your own conclusions for your own needs with the information contained in those two videos. Significantly more important than someone you don't know tell you stuff here in the comments. Seeing the data also helps you retain that information more than just a blind recommendation. Also, you might see a product that performed well and you know is inexpensive and available in your market as oppose to me telling you X is great but you only see Y in the shops. For the hope chest, any quality wood glue will work. Titebond was always expensive in Canada, and, in my opinion, the only one to splurge on is the Titebond III due to it's water resistance. Titebond I is normal wood glue. Titebond II is water resistant. Titebond III is "waterproof" but in actuality is just 'very, very water resistant.' A planter box outside is in a harsh place. Compounded by the material: Pallet wood is often treated in a way that sometimes interferes with good glue ups (if it feels chaulky, oily, or waxy). If you're relying on only glue it will eventually fail from the sun's UV rays, from moisture in the soil, from weather, mechanical forces. I don't think any wood glue would stand up long enough. Mechanical fastening would be, in my opinion, superior to wood glue in that situation. Choice of fastener is really up to your intended use for the planter box. I hope any of that is of any help. Good luck, Karen!
Looks like the house is stucco, so no worries about termites, but you should never attach a wood fence to a wood siding house. Termites would go straight from the ground, up the fence and into the house and you'd never see them.
I am disabled and in need of a lot of repairs around my plae. Been trying to get them to help me for years. Its hard to do when you have no one to help you. My front yard and front and nack decks are down right dangerous.
in frost prone areas that foam has created an edge or lip for the frost to grab & heave the post. also I would have used stainless staples, the ones used are not rated for outdoors
Tom makes everything look so easy. I might have taken similar steps but there would have been a whole lot more cursing, some yelling, 5 trips to the store. Then defending myself to my wife all night on how I wasn't mad, its just part of the process.
Ah, the good old measure twice, cut once, say oh crap three times, then run back to the hardware store.
“I wasn’t mad just part of the process “. I’ll have to use that one when I’m opening up the pool next month
😆 🤣 😂 So, what you're saying is your a normal man! 😀😃🙂🙃 All the rest of us would do the same thing!
Bill burr
Most honest comments I’ve read on these videos LOL.
I like it when toh does relatable videos like this instead of the multi-million dollar projects.
I am a lucky sister to have a brother that knows so much and has rebuilt my old house into a nice home and even though he is 72 years old he helps me on anything I need done.
Your parents have raised you guys well - a skilled brother who helps his family and an appreciative and thankful sister.
I do for my older sis, any job she needs. But she also has a handyman doing her bigger jobs. I'm 71.next months, God willing. ❤😊
The brackets in the corners was an excellent idea.
Tom is a national treasure. Protect him at all costs.
Thanks so much. Just the info I needed out here in Nebraska. Tommy is a wealth of knowledge and wisdom.
His wife is a lucky woman to have a man who knows how to do lots of things around the house
Tommy is such a legend. I wish I had a fraction of that mans skill. Great video guys.
He has forgotten more than most will ever know. Tommy is the Betty White ot construction; Very rarely do you find a person that both amatures and professionals alike agree on their knowledge and ability.
@@michaelcasey31 so true. I wish I had a father or grandfather like him. He is a national treasure that is irreplaceable
Tom came out of the womb with a speed square and chisel.
Tom Silva is a treasure!
Tom certainly knows what he is doing.
I’m loving the dad shorts and socks with sandals tommy. Lol. Classic dad outfit.
The two part expanding foam is a slick solution. I've never seen that one before, but will sure use it in the future for this kind of repair. Thank you. Tom, you always make difficult tasks look easy.
I won't ever use that expanding foam again, definitely not for a fence post holding up a gate. Reason I say that is I used it for a mailbox post and the box got bumped slightly and the foam compressed a bit and the post was no longer solid in the ground. I can't imagine it lasting that long for a post holding a gate that is opened and closed a lot.
Just use a quick set concrete it will outlast that expansion foam .
One thing you should be sure to do if you use the foam is to pour it onto the post, otherwise it'll expand onto the post but not bind to it. The extended directions on Sika's website are pretty explicit about it, but I don't recall if the bag mentions it, too.
Expanding foam is not a quick fire solution for all fences.
If your fence posts have to endure the wind beating against a closed leaf panel, then the foam will compress laterally. That wind can force your fence and attached post back and forth like you were shaking it. In concrete it would never move except with the natural give of the wood. In foam the tiny air pockets collapse as the cell walls rip and tear, making millions of tiny void spaces held in tension by the trapped air, a larger pocket, with air escaping and the pockets permanently deformed. Rendering what the foam was holding no longer tightly held.
A second point. Not all foam is created equal. If foam is desired then choose one that as it stops setting, does not shrink. Foam undergoes a reaction to set that involves heat that causes foam to expand. When it cools, it does not shrink, but rather deflates. This can result in the inner holding area of the foam to shrink into its center mass which if you imagine a doughnut, it not where the center hole is, but in upon itself. So it will loosen its grip on the post it’s holding and the wall of the hole you dug and poured the foam into.
Foam can be used, but if the work you are doing is intended to be placed under load, outdoors in weather conditions that you need your posts to resist… foam is not the best choice.
@@IzzyCraft Thanks for mentioning that. I thought the foam stuff was cool but now I'm re-thinking concrete is the tried and trued way to go.
The expanding foam was an interesting trick. I always enjoy videos with Tom.
I have used those foam when I replaced my mailbox post instead dealing with concrete
Would have loved to have heard more about the foam, why, brand, how etc
It's not a trick, just a product. Otherwise you can call everything a trick.... toilet paper, laundry detergent, the vacuumcleaner.. But i think the weight of concrete is what makes a good foundation, foam is exactly missing that.
@@Engineer9736 ... if you are not in a hurry, you can dump a half bag of dry gravel mix into each post hole and add some water after the fact. Ground moisture will do the rest and the following weekend you can hang the fence. Now you have the added weight, the added size of the concrete, and no sloppy concrete to clean up.
Used the expanding foam on posts for my deck last summer. It was perfect for what we needed to do. Recommend that product he used very highly and it's very easy to use once you get used to it.
The house side gate post with the blocking: anybody know to what that through post bolt is attached? Tommy mentions concrete, I assume concrete wall? Doesn’t seem likely he drilled the masonry, then bolted through the post. Cmon TOH, that’s a big skip.
Ah. Now I see this just a standoff, to stop the post from leaning towards the house. With a new gate and reset hinge post, the febce can be made push wedge tight against the house
Tommy is awesome. I would love to get to meet him and the rest of the crew one day.
Tommy, You are sure a welcome site to us out there wondering how you are doing. Looks like you’re doing great AND still helping us homeowners with little DIY repair projects. On this one, I especially liked the custom inside braces you made! Thanks!
great skill set combine with years of hands on experience, nails it with the right sequence of do's
This Old House 🏡
Tom is a legend,
true professional
Master Builder
🧰🔨🛠️📏📐🗜️
Blessings 💯
GREAT VIDEO!!!
I’ve been putting off squaring two big sagging gates and Tom’s corner details is something I hadn’t thought of but is the perfect structural fix to the sagging problems!!!
Thanks so much from Canada.
I remember watching This Old House on PBS when I was a kid in the early 90s. We recently bought a home that was built around the same time and I am so grateful that these videos exist because they have saved me tens of thousands of dollars on repairs.
Great fixes and very economical. Enjoyed watching as always.
I'm not sure if this is in any way correct and probably not the best way to set posts but years ago I set some posts by shoveling dry Quick-Crete and gravel in the post hole around the posts for a chicken wire fence and then I just added water and left it. The posts lasted 20 years before rotting at ground level so I guess it was an ok way to set them, huh? 😄
What a nice job! ❤️ Those corner brackets match the gate style perfectly. I never knew about the foam stuff. I need to remember that for when I reset my mailbox post. I've been a fan for many, many years. I'm happy to know you guys are still out there helping people learn how to do home improvements. Thanks for sharing and for teaching me something new! 👍 😊
All these guys on TOH make things look so easy because they are so knowledgeable. I wish Norm Abrams was still doing New Yankee Workshop he is another master craftsman.
how do you make one strong enough that it wont sag when all 4 of my nieces and nephews ride the gate at the same time?
build the whole gate out of steel
Add a diagonal cross brace. Obviously.
@@GrahamDIY lol i did...
@@GrahamDIY r/wooosh
Take pictures/vids of the kids swinging on the gate..... let it sag.... take more pics/vids.... You'll love those pic/vids a few years from now:) Fix that gate later....:)
Could watch Tom work all day.
I think you can speed the weathering by using vinegar. I remember seeing a video a while back where people would spritz an apple cider/steel wool solution on wood to oxidize (and grey) it faster.
That’s a cool process, but fair warning it can go more black than gray. Especially when dealing with oak
@@TheChupacabra One could mitigate the darkening risk by a dilute solution of the resultant oxidant but yes, I agree. Takes a bit of work to predict with accuracy how the wood will respond. It might look good today, but it might look ghastly in a year.
Leaving it to the UV radiation and weathering seems to be the safe route.
@@ALAPINO when you say oxidant you presumably mean iron acetate as opposed to the acetic acid?
Still tricky to guess effect from calculating concentration of reagents. Think your best bet is to test on a hidden area (and heat if needed, depending on season)
@@TheChupacabra It's been a long time since chem, but I think my main point should have been more clear as I am a layman: go with a weaker anything. Or yes, absolutely, test on scraps.
Personally, I'm not all that a fan of ferric acetate stains for outdoor projects. They just don't ever seem to weather in a pleasing way. But obviously, that's just my experience on the east coast with our species' and our weather.
In this case, since the homeowner called TOH to square a gate and reset a post I don't think he's going to care about waiting for Tommy's repair to weather in. (Frankly, it looks great as is)
A wood preservative or oil on the fence would help it last longer and improve the looks.
Tommy is the MASTER
Thank you! I wanted to use foam for the same exact use thank you again Tommy!
It amazes me how many home owners dont know how to do simple repairs, like resetting a fence post or replacing a outlet or faucet
Great job Tommy!
I have the exact same gate problem at home. What an awesome video.
A pro to aid us week end father's. Trying to find 4.75"X4.75" vinyl post for my three rail horse fence.
Timely release for this video. I just so happen to be doing some gate repair here too.
Looks like the old man knows what he is doing 🤞 and the best part I liked apparently he fixed for free 😜 cuz he only shake hand and said was glad to fix it . Didn’t said here is you bill or you owe me this amount 👌😜🤣
Tommy is a true master of his craft.🙂👍
I wish Tom came to my house and fixed all my problems with a smile and a handshake
I'm always amazed, Tom and my brother could be mistaken as twin brothers! Looks and body stature. In fact, my brother is also a contractor too.
One day i will own my own gate…
Tommy's smart
Nice job, Tommy!
Dang they had Tommy putting in the work for this one!!! Great job! 🔥💪🏼💪🏼
Yeah fence post digging is not easy task.
Tommy is the GOAT
Thank you for this, helps in my problem fix
nice work tommy
I’d suggest not topping the post hole with dirt. It will speed up the post rot. I’d put in enough foam to come above ground level, and then use a knife or something to trim and taper the top foam away from the wood so water drains away toward surrounding earth.
good ole pops!
Tommy is close to a national treasure. But Kevin might have something to say about it 😆
Mr. homeowner looks like one of the characters of an episode of PBS' Inspector Lewis.
Tommy is the man!
Another job well done. Sometime all you need is the knowledge. Keep up the great work.
This old gate.
The gate and my ex have a lot in common.
Tom, you know best. I really like that expandable foam material. I haven’t seen it around my area, We have clay soil and moisture problems on fence post bottoms. My approach has been to coat the in-ground portion of wooden posts using asphalt and then wrap them in aluminum flashing to protect against moisture and rot - especially at the soil line. The coated and protected portaron is then cemented into the ground, leaving about 4-inches of the coated portion above grade. That seems to give long life to fence posts in our type of soil.
In you application, I think it might have been good to have made a wrap from flashing - all the way to ground level - and then pour in the foam stuff - and top with some cement and TLC sloping of the cement to avoid standing water around that post. Enjoyed your demonstration. BTW many years ago I think you and the TOH crew were at the beach bar at the Fountainbleau Hotel in Miami Beach?
This show always very educational thanks Tommy!!
7:45 thank you Tommy. There’s the door!
The is excellent person
Tommy feels like that great uncle who teaches you how to fix your carburetor and gives you your first beer at 18 while you watch the Bears - Packers game. Good ol uncle Tommy, he was a goodfella.
Love watching Tom videos.
Tommy, you are a master!
Has anyone ever witnessed a genuine smile on Tom's face !
Nice job Tommy! As always
I am curious as to why Tommy didn't incorporate the use of some adhesive in holding the gate square. And the foam, very short term solution. To last 8-10 more years concrete would have been a better choice.
GREAT JOB
ya know tommys old school when he puts a huge lag bolt in with a drill instead of impact driverp
That was painful to watch on the lag, but him driving those deck screws into the gate with underpowered cabinet drills makes a lot of sense...you get more control.
@@cup_and_cone Yeah that is true, a big 18v impact wouldve pulled the screw through the gussets
But i spose if i were paid to use free festool drills ide power my car with them
thanks for the instructions! awesome information
Oh crap, got to check my mail box post, it's been shuffling around!
I think I see the problem with the gate post, no concrete! Id recommend thru bolting those hinges as well. Gotta go.
Awesome video's as always! 💯💥👍☝️
Thanks, I need Tommy
Yoda to Tom: "You must pass on....what you have learned."
Love these videos
"I beg to differ. Happy Gilmore achieved that feat less than an hour ago."
"Well, moron, good for Happy Gil-oh-my-GOD!"
Hahahaah I was thinking the same thing. “WHOA is Gandalf tall or Frodo short?!”
Also it’s funny to picture this guy, I neeeed help Tommy please!!
Shouldn’t he just make a fist, raise it over his head and bring down the force of Thor’s hammer into the top of the post. 6 inches shorter, but now a rock solid post.
@@TheChupacabra -- Great minds think alike.
It's actually a nicely designed gate. The original carpentry was not very good though.
Thanks Tom, that was great!
Nice work.
do you use the same concept when the post has been installed in concrete slab instead of dirt?
Love this channel ❤️
I just saw this video few days ago.
Gr8 work Tommy
Silly question but his bolt through the left post into the bracket he cut….did it also go into the wall? What is keeping it tight when the gate is open and not leaning in?
Geez Tommy, when did you SHRINK?😁😁
One thing I don’t understand is why he didn’t put the expanding foam higher up on the post
And why not sanded and stained it as well
Love these videos, he just goes to randoms people's houses and fixes their shiz lmao
Of course Tommy has the socket adapter for his PDC
Wet the blocks and then rub a little dirt on them and you have instant aging.
Can metal shelf brackets be used up in the corners?
Wish your videos were longer 🥺
Hi I'm really hoping you could help me. I love you guys use to watch your show every weekend.. I'm building a hope chest for my daughter from oak and outdoor planters for my son with old pallets. I was wondering which glue to use.. I was going to use gorilla for the all pieces but now I'm second guessing as there is so much negative reviews about it. I hear titebond might be okay but its very expensive and for the life of me I cant find it anywhere right now as its sold out in Canada where I am ... much appreciated please and thank you
Karen, the TOH web team rarely reads or replies to comments but I can try to help if you'd like.
Gorilla glue (normal stuff, expanding polyurethane glue) is decent stuff when used correctly and on the right applications. I find it just expires quickly and I suspect bad reviews are from misuse or an expired bottle. Also, by its expanding nature, it's messier than traditional wood glue.
Now, having said that, according to testing done by wood engineering nerd Matthias Wandel: wood glue made by Gorilla brand performs well. He's in Canada as well, so availability for him should be relatively similar to you. If you have a little time I recommend watching Matthias Wandel's video from one week ago entitled, "Which glue is strongest? Testing with my computerized tester." and Project Farm's video entitled, "Which Wood Glue is Best? Let's find out!..."
You can skip to the end to see a summary of their findings in both videos or watch in full to see the test samples as they are tested. You can form your own conclusions for your own needs with the information contained in those two videos. Significantly more important than someone you don't know tell you stuff here in the comments. Seeing the data also helps you retain that information more than just a blind recommendation.
Also, you might see a product that performed well and you know is inexpensive and available in your market as oppose to me telling you X is great but you only see Y in the shops.
For the hope chest, any quality wood glue will work. Titebond was always expensive in Canada, and, in my opinion, the only one to splurge on is the Titebond III due to it's water resistance. Titebond I is normal wood glue. Titebond II is water resistant. Titebond III is "waterproof" but in actuality is just 'very, very water resistant.'
A planter box outside is in a harsh place. Compounded by the material: Pallet wood is often treated in a way that sometimes interferes with good glue ups (if it feels chaulky, oily, or waxy). If you're relying on only glue it will eventually fail from the sun's UV rays, from moisture in the soil, from weather, mechanical forces. I don't think any wood glue would stand up long enough. Mechanical fastening would be, in my opinion, superior to wood glue in that situation. Choice of fastener is really up to your intended use for the planter box.
I hope any of that is of any help.
Good luck, Karen!
Is Tommy that short or is the guest alarmingly tall?
Tommy’s not that tall, but that was a rather big guy.
So, neither.
Looks like the house is stucco, so no worries about termites, but you should never attach a wood fence to a wood siding house. Termites would go straight from the ground, up the fence and into the house and you'd never see them.
“I cut this block to fit the conner of the house…”
What’s the conner?
I am disabled and in need of a lot of repairs around my plae. Been trying to get them to help me for years. Its hard to do when you have no one to help you. My front yard and front and nack decks are down right dangerous.
And with 12% inflation the new fence will be 38.000 dollars in 10 years time
in frost prone areas that foam has created an edge or lip for the frost to grab & heave the post. also I would have used stainless staples, the ones used are not rated for outdoors
If you set the foam below the frost line the problem you presented won't be an issue, right?
@@StoneE4 correct
@@johnmolnar2957 You should have mentioned that on your own.
@@StoneE4 ... the frost line in his area is way more than 24 inches, which is usually where a fence posts ends.
Plated staples last the 10yrs left on this fence.
i usually buy a new house when my gate sags.
Omg that show is still a thing
Is the Belemier drill good?
Tommy loves jorts!