I am the third generation industrial sheeter and metal building erection guy in my family. I have been sheeting some of the largest, most cut up projects in chemical plants, refineries, NASA, government military Corps of Engineers, and nuclear facilities along with thousands of standing seam metal roofs of every profile all over the world for the last 35 years. I spent 6 years at the largest manufacturer of sheeting and metal buildings in the world - NCI. MBCI. My father and grandfather ran with all of the guys who now own the major manufacturers (All of the NCI companies, Whirlwind, Rigid, Mcelroy, etc etc) part of my job was the testing of materials for wind resistance, negative and positive pressures, various Fastener withdrawal pressures, and siliconized polyester (Standard paint on sheeting if not bare galvalume) & polyvinylidene fluoride (AKA Kynar that costs a little more but very resilient for corrosive harsh environment.) part of my job there was also writing the installation manuals for all of the through fastened panels, concealed Fastener panels, all standing seam profiles including trapezoidal such as ultradeck and double lock, Tuff Span (corrugated FRP by Enduro), light transmitting panels Etc. I say all of that just to say this. It is not good to cut the sheets With any kind of saw or a grinder. Yes they will cut them. they will also cause your material to rust out very quick, because they do not seal the cut Edge. They leave the bare steel exposed. a Nibbler for cross cuts, and double cuts for long rips, are the proper tools to use. and if you are just cutting to length and have the right dies on a hand shear you can use that. But it's uncommon and rarely necessary if you order sheets the right lengths. The nibbler and double cuts both pinch the finish over the cut edge as they cut. (So do tin snips) basically "cauterizing" the cut. It protects the cut edge. Grinders etc also create a lot of swarf that will rust a roof up in a hurry even after you sweep / blow it off. Nibblers leave a bunch of little sharp, half moon shaped pieces that will stick in your boot soles and scratch roof if you aren't careful. The best nibbler you can buy is Fein. And the best double cuts you can buy are Ketts. Oh and just FYI there are no "tin" roofs. Tin is a useful element but is pretty rare. Combined with copper it gives you bronze. Mix with lead and it's solder! But a roof hasn't been coated with tin for over a century. And was mostly used in canada.... Have a great day all
@@stevem815 Only cut zinc-alum sheets with mechanical shears. The action of cutting with tin snips drags the zinc over the cut end and seals it and stops the rust
couple other considerations from a fellow metal building erector (though only a year's experience)...The grinder blades have only maybe a 1/4 life as they become too small soon after starting to use them and that means more expense even on purposely rusted corrugated. The Makita nibbler we use only runs a few cuts before the cutters need replacing at $45 a pop, so a better one should be used...the Fein I guess!
One advantage of the grinder with a cutoff blade is you can cut multiple sheets at once. Say if you need to cut multiple sheets the same length. Just endo them and bam 5 or 6 cut at once. The sparks do embed themselves in the top layer of paint and the embedded sparks themselves will rust which is unsightly but they never penetrate them galvelume coating that is under the paint and this only happens when cutting sheets when they are flat at the time of cutting. I always cover the Immediate area with a old drop off sheet, plywood or even cardboard. I’ve even sprayed a little water on sheets beforehand and sparks are extinguished without doing any damage and with a grinder fitted with a 6” blade and compatible guard, super efficient.
The nibbler has an advantage not mentioned over all the other tools, it has a shearing action which means when you cut galvanized sheets it will roll the galvanizing over the cut edge, this prevents rust.
@@Josh-ww5kz no, he cares about wasting his time and money, like any normal human being should. You get a recep saw for $20 in an inflated economy, rather than $1.2k.
Back in the day, we used to put a plywood blade in a circ saw backward. It worked, but WOW! Put in your ear plugs. Something that helps with vibration when using reciprocating blades is to lay an inner tube filled with lead shot as close as you can to the cut line. It absorbs a lot of the vibration. But nibblers are awesome.
Great comparison of the tools selected! Would love to see an update that includes a circular saw, hand cutting shears, and a rotozip type tool. Thanks for the thoughtful analysis. Really helpful!
The nibbler makes the cleanest cut with the least amount of heat and distortion. But what nibblers need for a laser straight cut is some kind of fence/guide. The nibbler by itself, operated by hand/eye coordination requires too much time for adequate concentration and still only produces fairly straight cuts at best. I highly value accuracy and in this day and age there should be an 'entry level' priced tool for average joes that makes a simple, straight accurate cut on corrugated panels without a lot of fuss and set up just like there is for wood with track saws and table saws. The very best cut is a brake style shear with dies that match the corrugated profile, prohibitively expensive for DIYers and impractical for the field and/or home garage.
Just use clamps to secure a level, piece of wood, or scrap metal to act as a guide rail. If you get it in the right spot you can just rest part of the tool along the rail and just slide it. Same trick for people that have trouble keeping their circular saws on track.
Just purchased the Metabo HPT/HIKOKI Cordless 18v nibbler. Actually had an extremely hard time finding one anywhere in stock. Ended up purchasing through amazon. Running it with my Multivolt batteries. Amazing how well it works for applying tin roofing. All the cuts are fantastic!
Good to know. I see one for $200. Beats the heck out of spending $1150 for the same tool by Trumpf. He lost the election too, loser. I could not own a tool even close to his name.
@@mjremy2605 Actually he won but that will fall on deaf ears here. But I have the same issue as you, except with Dementia Joe . I had to stop using the phrase "Biding my time", it was too close to the B word for me .
All those tools and I use a Milwaukee 18v circular saw with a metal blade . Cut 8 to 10 sheet thick corrugated no problem . After that snips and a nibbler is all you need for details . Commercial and highrise sheet metal worker here
As sheet metal worker for 40 years, the sawsall works best for me out those you have there. But I use the tip of the blade, I don't even have the guild on mine (most sheet metal workers don't.) I do like the nibbler in the shop, not in the field.
Does any roofer in existence even know the correct procedure? All of them use angle grinders and shears and nibblers when the only true method is guillotine or ripping.
Sheetmetal Walker for 25 years and I do the same thing with a sawsaw Blade flip it upside down I don’t even have to put in a step bit to make a hole to start the cut you can use the tip of the sawszaw blade to start the cut. But of course it’s easier if you use a step bit first
Heavy gauge corrugation panels are not a demanding test. The lighter gauges pretty standard in standing seam panels are a much better trial. Also it should be pointed out that any swarf or grinding dust is a detriment as it will land on the surface of the panels and cause rust in a few days. That rust will eat down through most any coating and attack the base metal as well. Not only that but it gets under the platen of the saw and is ground into the panel as you make the cut. Not good at all. Shears and nibblers are the best cut but most are challenged by the angles present in seamless panels and standing seam systems. In the early nineties the old Black and Decker (remember when they actually made tools and were not just a "name" sold in the market place?) made a cheap (green) homeowners model that used two opposing circular roller cutters of about an inch in diameter. These left a neat straight edge and they rode up and down over most any profile with no problems. Amazingly they were taken off the market in short order and never sold again by any manufacturer. Of course it was corded but it left no swarf or chips, was quiet and easy to control and better still very cheap to buy while still lasting a good long while with replaceable cutting wheels that lasted through several roofing jobs. It also had the advantage that it did not deform the cut edge. The body of it resembled their jig saw of the time. They went away in the last stages of the B&D where they dropped the cheaper lines they made (the orange, green, and shiny black) in favor of the expensive Professional line. Another caution is that the half moon waste that nibblers leave quickly gets caught on the boot soles and further scratches and damages the panels in place as they are walked on. It would certainly be great to find a solution as good or better than that old B&D but so far I haven't seen it. They would be better served to make a model that cut as well before worrying about making it cordless!!
Interesting comparison vid but, at the danger of repeating earlier comments that I haven't got to, why weren't single cut shears included for the straight cuts? Once you acquire the rolling action to keep the blades engaged I find they are the quickest, quietest and easiest too to use to cut a straight line. Dedicated nibbler tools are easily the best for openings of almost any size and if you don't rush they don't tear or distort. For roofing or final finish work anything that creates a spark should be avoided. The sparks will fuse to almost every surface and quickly turn to rust. They're welded to the surface and can't be wiped or blown off. The specks of rust will penetrate the sheet coating and spread. If a cut edge is going to be visible then a shear cut is the best option but takes some practice to get used to the blade offset. Most sheet cuts will be hidden under flashing but raggedy edges look shit and are capable of ruining a good pair of gloves. Without wanting to sound like a smartarse, best way is to take the time to work out sheets at their longest length and pay the cut charge to have them cut to length. Saves more time than it takes. In summary, shears, practice and proper estimation until, your and expert, and definitely no sparks! Cheers.
A Diablo Steel Demon Cermet II Carbide Ferrous Metal in a circular saw blade would be a great option for straight cuts when you don't need to worry about the loss of metal protection (paint/galvanizing) at the cut location. You could even use a straight edge or track saw guide for excellent results. Nibblers are great for non-straight cuts on so many materials (metal, vinyl siding and others). For straight cuts you could use a fence to guide the nibbler.
I use a Milwaukee cordless circular cold saw and have converted other roofers to using it too. Mainly on 5V and other profiles corrugated just isn't used much in residential construction. Nibblers are great for cutouts and vent stacks
Nice demonstration. One method that has worked well for me is to to use a 12" metal shear that you can find on harbor freight. I did have some concerns about it distorting the corrugations, but for the thin gauge of metal I was working with it hardly distorted. It probably would cause some distortion in the thicker sheets used in this video.
Trumpf cordless nibbler: $950 Other cordless nibblers: $350- $500 Cordless grinder: $100-$300 He didn't discuss prices, but the nibbler he is using is for professionals who use it all the time, and there are other brands of nibblers at a fraction of the price. If you're a home gamer it probably doesn't make sense to spend $950 on a tool, especially if you already have a grinder.
I like the Nibbler, but let's be fair the farther away from the bench will cause vibration make for a harder cut. The closer you are to the bench will reduce vibration making for an easier cut. I would like to see the Nibbler go first while it's further away from the bench. I noticed a cut in the video just before the Nibbler was to show what it can do on the second round. Hmmm...
I recently watched another video in which a roofer recommended AGAINST using a grinder with a metal-cutting wheel on it, because it overheats painted roofing and causes it to rust within 3/4" of the cut edge, after a year or so. FYI.
Gotta say…out of these tools, only the grinder can start a cut mid sheet. The jigsaw could if a starter hole is drilled of course..but then you are into two tools and more time (plus the hole is wide which could ruin the perfect edge look!). However, the grinder sparks could be an issue around flammables.
The old classic way to cut metal roofing is with a cane knife. That's a wide blade machete used for cutting sugarcane. Put a metal peg in one corner of the blade, sandwich the knife between two 2x4s and work it like a can opener.. No sparks. No expensive power tools and fast. Rick
@@Protoolreviews Yep, my brother in law taught me that trick. He's a framer, they just kept the old blades just for when they had to to any metal cutting, like the corrugated sheets or even aluminum tubing. LoudAF though, not recommended inside a garage.
Make sure you clean up the nibbler shavings because they can get easily embedded into shoes and air hoses, my air hose has a minor leak from a shaving that punctured the hose after my son did not clean up his mess.
I use a metal cutting circular saw. Ten times faster and better control. I've also used regular circular saws with a plywood blade installed backwards with pretty good results.
@@mikezahnow1605 - Just make sure the blade is rated for the speed of the saw. My saw turns about 3900 rpm compared to a wood saw that turns about 5800. At least one company, Diablo, makes a metal cutting blade that is rated for the higher speed. Just realize that a wood saw will throw the bits of metal everywhere whereas the metal cutting saws control it much better.
The grinder is pretty good tool overall but you have to think about heat damage with it. For some materials (e.g. metal with plastic-like coating) get damaged near the cut if you use the grinder.
What about the various nibbler-type attachments for cordless drills? Not everyone can afford an expensive dedicated tool for cutting corrugated or ribbed sheet metal.
I have a nibbler, it virtually never gets used. There are several issues: 1, Quite difficult to steer; 2, Difficult to make sharp profile transitions (- the 'throat' of the cut is only so big); 3, Relatively noisy; 4, But the worst item, is the thousands of half-moon shaped razor-sharp shrapnel pieces that gets sprayed everywhere. These are WAYYY worse than some grinding sparks, that stop being a problem as soon as the cut is finished. Pretty much the only time it's used, is for cutting entire holes, as per the last demo in this video.
$1,100 for the Trumpf!!! I'll stick with my Hitachi corded nibbler $400. After all, we make our cuts on the ground or at a work station where we have power.
Very nice demonstration indeed, thank you very much! However, I knew upfront which the best-performing or preferred tool would be. "Horses for courses" , the saying goes. A nibbler is specifically designed for sheet metal. Try the reverse, use a nibbler to cut timber framing or dry wall, cut tubular steel or plywood. Ain't working at all. 🤗 All good, appreciate the effort you've made. I wonder how a plasma cutter would do? Hard to use in the 'field', and haven't got one anyway. Has a viewer tried that?
Thanks for your acknowledgement and offer of plasma cutter where ever you are, but I'm probably thousands of miles away, hence dealing is not practical. Very nice thou to have this conversation with you!! Have since looked up the cost and availability of various nibblers, corded, battery, and found that all of the common brands come in around 600 to 800 New Zealand Dollars, which equals three times as much as a 4'' angle grinder, four times as a Matika corded jigsaw, and half of a Matika corded sabre saw. (consumables not considered). Nibblers are great no doubt, but appear to be expensive. Even if a disk is used up, a blade is broken or blunted, considering the ammount of sheet metal I'm doing, the lesser preferred options are the easier ones still. Thanks for your work, much appreciated and lovely to watch!! Cheers, Reiner in New Zealand.
Great point. Unless you cut a lot of sheet metal, buying a tool just for this one purpose doesn't make economic sense. Especially when you can use something you already have.
anytime you cut a painted edge you expose the metal and it can rust faster, not limited to one type of tool, if you're worried hide the cut side when installing
Unless you're going to use the nibbler often I would say use any of the other ones anyone you can get the most use out of if you're going to buy a new tool
The grinder cut looked like a disaster with all the sparks. The other methods appeared to cut equally well and would seem fine to cut simple aluminum siding. I wonder how one of those TV Rotozip saws compares. It does look like you're trying to sell those nibblers. Are you sponsored?
Fastest and easiest way to make them cuts would be with baling wire. It would take me 10 seconds to set it up and about 2 seconds to cut it. If anyone would like to know how, leave me a request....
@@bubolzkm Take a length of wire about 5 feet long. Wrap one end to some kind of screwdriver or a piece of wood. This will be the handle to pull on. Lay the wire down or under the piece of metal that you are wanting to cut. Mark the metal where the cut needs to be. Lay two pieces of 2x4 across the metal to be cut, one on each side of the cut. Attach the end of the wire that is opposite the handle to something to keep it from moving. I put a nail or screw into one of the 2x4's and wrap it around that. Now stand on the 2x4's and pull up on the wire with the handle and it will slice the metal just like butter...
The demonstration avoided the cut that I hate doing most - a diagonal cut across the sheet such as those that are required for wall cladding that must follow the verges of a pitched roof. Keeping the cut to a true straight line whilst following the corrugations with a hand held nibbler is not easily achieved. Only a guillotine can simply produce a straight line otherwise a fence or guide is necessary for the hand held tools to be used accurately.
no ez way and my valleys are deeper on my old tin. replacements not longe available to must cut up 20 pcs to make my roof longer; enabling proper guttering.
What grease are you putting in the nibble gearbox? I have an old n801 trumpf and it's a bear but the directional on maintenance aren't great. It recommends old discontinued grease
Seemed like it was a paid “review” of the nibbler. And as others have said, the further away from stability (clamps) the more it’ll vibrate and move, as it did for the other tools. I thought there was a lot more metal cut away with the nibbler, although it was nice and clean. I think the others if done straight and properly would have given a good result and not go off the line. I only watched the first part, pretty easy to see what this is about. 🤷🏻♀️
The further the metal was from the C clamps the more chatter vibrations all tools should have had the same distance, where are the guide lines for your last tests ?
I notice that you are making substantial cuts in galvanized material with a grinder but no protection from fumes. I just bought my first grinder and saw somewhere that the fumes created using it on galvanized are seriously toxic. I am asking just for your personal thoughts and not expert opinion. Maybe I should view what you were doing as minimal and relax a bit. Maybe what I saw was warning against much longer exposures. Thanks. (Happy to hear from anyone.)
The cheapest and fastest option is to cut with tin snips to the second rib, then just tear it by hand the rest of the way. It will tear straight every time. Only for straight cuts obviously.
I heard another CZcamsr, who said he's been working with these materials for several years, say he also prefers tin snips. He did add, however, that it would be extremely difficult to sharpen the blades once they need it without compromising the efficacy/ integrity of the blades. I'm wondering if anyone else has thoughts on that, or if there have been snips designed since he filmed that, that will tolerate being sharpened? (I actually didn't catch the year that he taped his video.)
@@michaelowens1206 Good question. I've had the same snips for 15 years. Sharpening would probably be a good idea. Wondering if they dull much over the years? They seem to more crimp the tin along the curved edge of the snips, rather than slice through the tin. Maybe the design doesn't necessarily rely on a sharp edge..
Nibbler does have its place as an excellent tool, no doubt whatsoever, but the comparison setup was unnecessarily biased. Who's worried about sparks when cutting metal unless in a hazardous materials site??? With the nibbler as you have it set up, you have better visibility because you're standing at 90 degrees to the cut, but you sacrifice accuracy because you're cutting across your body and not down the cut line. It proves your visibility point, but only by manipulation. Would you use any type of cutting device this way as your primary approach unless you had no choice? No.
I am the third generation industrial sheeter and metal building erection guy in my family. I have been sheeting some of the largest, most cut up projects in chemical plants, refineries, NASA, government military Corps of Engineers, and nuclear facilities along with thousands of standing seam metal roofs of every profile all over the world for the last 35 years. I spent 6 years at the largest manufacturer of sheeting and metal buildings in the world - NCI. MBCI. My father and grandfather ran with all of the guys who now own the major manufacturers (All of the NCI companies, Whirlwind, Rigid, Mcelroy, etc etc) part of my job was the testing of materials for wind resistance, negative and positive pressures, various Fastener withdrawal pressures, and siliconized polyester (Standard paint on sheeting if not bare galvalume) & polyvinylidene fluoride (AKA Kynar that costs a little more but very resilient for corrosive harsh environment.) part of my job there was also writing the installation manuals for all of the through fastened panels, concealed Fastener panels, all standing seam profiles including trapezoidal such as ultradeck and double lock, Tuff Span (corrugated FRP by Enduro), light transmitting panels Etc. I say all of that just to say this. It is not good to cut the sheets With any kind of saw or a grinder. Yes they will cut them. they will also cause your material to rust out very quick, because they do not seal the cut Edge. They leave the bare steel exposed. a Nibbler for cross cuts, and double cuts for long rips, are the proper tools to use. and if you are just cutting to length and have the right dies on a hand shear you can use that. But it's uncommon and rarely necessary if you order sheets the right lengths. The nibbler and double cuts both pinch the finish over the cut edge as they cut. (So do tin snips) basically "cauterizing" the cut. It protects the cut edge. Grinders etc also create a lot of swarf that will rust a roof up in a hurry even after you sweep / blow it off. Nibblers leave a bunch of little sharp, half moon shaped pieces that will stick in your boot soles and scratch roof if you aren't careful. The best nibbler you can buy is Fein. And the best double cuts you can buy are Ketts. Oh and just FYI there are no "tin" roofs. Tin is a useful element but is pretty rare. Combined with copper it gives you bronze. Mix with lead and it's solder! But a roof hasn't been coated with tin for over a century. And was mostly used in canada.... Have a great day all
I was going to say the exact thing
What about zincalume sheets? I don't come across galvanised sheets very often any more, does your advice still apply?
@@stevem815 Only cut zinc-alum sheets with mechanical shears. The action of cutting with tin snips drags the zinc over the cut end and seals it and stops the rust
@@bblbuilding5011 OK, thanks.
couple other considerations from a fellow metal building erector (though only a year's experience)...The grinder blades have only maybe a 1/4 life as they become too small soon after starting to use them and that means more expense even on purposely rusted corrugated.
The Makita nibbler we use only runs a few cuts before the cutters need replacing at $45 a pop, so a better one should be used...the Fein I guess!
One advantage of the grinder with a cutoff blade is you can cut multiple sheets at once. Say if you need to cut multiple sheets the same length. Just endo them and bam 5 or 6 cut at once. The sparks do embed themselves in the top layer of paint and the embedded sparks themselves will rust which is unsightly but they never penetrate them galvelume coating that is under the paint and this only happens when cutting sheets when they are flat at the time of cutting. I always cover the Immediate area with a old drop off sheet, plywood or even cardboard. I’ve even sprayed a little water on sheets beforehand and sparks are extinguished without doing any damage and with a grinder fitted with a 6” blade and compatible guard, super efficient.
The nibbler has an advantage not mentioned over all the other tools, it has a shearing action which means when you cut galvanized sheets it will roll the galvanizing over the cut edge, this prevents rust.
Yes thank you exactly the point I was going to make
Really? I could not care less. For this price of $1150 I could get the work contracted out.
@@mjremy2605 I'm going to hope that the contractor uses a nibbler.
@@mjremy2605 I can just tell by that attitude that you don't care about your work quality.
@@Josh-ww5kz no, he cares about wasting his time and money, like any normal human being should. You get a recep saw for $20 in an inflated economy, rather than $1.2k.
Back in the day, we used to put a plywood blade in a circ saw backward. It worked, but WOW! Put in your ear plugs.
Something that helps with vibration when using reciprocating blades is to lay an inner tube filled with lead shot as close as you can to the cut line. It absorbs a lot of the vibration.
But nibblers are awesome.
I’m needing to cut metal roofi g and siding for a shed and this video was perfect at comparing the tool options! Great job
Great comparison of the tools selected! Would love to see an update that includes a circular saw, hand cutting shears, and a rotozip type tool. Thanks for the thoughtful analysis. Really helpful!
The nibbler makes the cleanest cut with the least amount of heat and distortion. But what nibblers need for a laser straight cut is some kind of fence/guide. The nibbler by itself, operated by hand/eye coordination requires too much time for adequate concentration and still only produces fairly straight cuts at best.
I highly value accuracy and in this day and age there should be an 'entry level' priced tool for average joes that makes a simple, straight accurate cut on corrugated panels without a lot of fuss and set up just like there is for wood with track saws and table saws.
The very best cut is a brake style shear with dies that match the corrugated profile, prohibitively expensive for DIYers and impractical for the field and/or home garage.
Just use clamps to secure a level, piece of wood, or scrap metal to act as a guide rail. If you get it in the right spot you can just rest part of the tool along the rail and just slide it. Same trick for people that have trouble keeping their circular saws on track.
Just purchased the Metabo HPT/HIKOKI Cordless 18v nibbler. Actually had an extremely hard time finding one anywhere in stock. Ended up purchasing through amazon. Running it with my Multivolt batteries. Amazing how well it works for applying tin roofing. All the cuts are fantastic!
How much material does the cut take away? Like how thick is the blade
Good to know. I see one for $200. Beats the heck out of spending $1150 for the same tool by Trumpf. He lost the election too, loser. I could not own a tool even close to his name.
@@mjremy2605 Actually he won but that will fall on deaf ears here. But I have the same issue as you, except with Dementia Joe . I had to stop using the phrase "Biding my time", it was too close to the B word for me .
All those tools and I use a Milwaukee 18v circular saw with a metal blade . Cut 8 to 10 sheet thick corrugated no problem . After that snips and a nibbler is all you need for details . Commercial and highrise sheet metal worker here
As sheet metal worker for 40 years, the sawsall works best for me out those you have there. But I use the tip of the blade, I don't even have the guild on mine (most sheet metal workers don't.) I do like the nibbler in the shop, not in the field.
Does any roofer in existence even know the correct procedure? All of them use angle grinders and shears and nibblers when the only true method is guillotine or ripping.
What about sheer Attachment for Drills and what is best way cut Air Duct once their Connected. You have CZcams Channel?
Sheetmetal Walker for 25 years and I do the same thing with a sawsaw Blade flip it upside down I don’t even have to put in a step bit to make a hole to start the cut you can use the tip of the sawszaw blade to start the cut. But of course it’s easier if you use a step bit first
@@SH19922x Im a roofer. Whats your opinion on the jigsaw. Will it rust?
Heavy gauge corrugation panels are not a demanding test. The lighter gauges pretty standard in standing seam panels are a much better trial. Also it should be pointed out that any swarf or grinding dust is a detriment as it will land on the surface of the panels and cause rust in a few days. That rust will eat down through most any coating and attack the base metal as well. Not only that but it gets under the platen of the saw and is ground into the panel as you make the cut. Not good at all. Shears and nibblers are the best cut but most are challenged by the angles present in seamless panels and standing seam systems. In the early nineties the old Black and Decker (remember when they actually made tools and were not just a "name" sold in the market place?) made a cheap (green) homeowners model that used two opposing circular roller cutters of about an inch in diameter. These left a neat straight edge and they rode up and down over most any profile with no problems. Amazingly they were taken off the market in short order and never sold again by any manufacturer. Of course it was corded but it left no swarf or chips, was quiet and easy to control and better still very cheap to buy while still lasting a good long while with replaceable cutting wheels that lasted through several roofing jobs. It also had the advantage that it did not deform the cut edge. The body of it resembled their jig saw of the time. They went away in the last stages of the B&D where they dropped the cheaper lines they made (the orange, green, and shiny black) in favor of the expensive Professional line. Another caution is that the half moon waste that nibblers leave quickly gets caught on the boot soles and further scratches and damages the panels in place as they are walked on. It would certainly be great to find a solution as good or better than that old B&D but so far I haven't seen it. They would be better served to make a model that cut as well before worrying about making it cordless!!
Interesting comparison vid but, at the danger of repeating earlier comments that I haven't got to, why weren't single cut shears included for the straight cuts? Once you acquire the rolling action to keep the blades engaged I find they are the quickest, quietest and easiest too to use to cut a straight line. Dedicated nibbler tools are easily the best for openings of almost any size and if you don't rush they don't tear or distort. For roofing or final finish work anything that creates a spark should be avoided. The sparks will fuse to almost every surface and quickly turn to rust. They're welded to the surface and can't be wiped or blown off. The specks of rust will penetrate the sheet coating and spread. If a cut edge is going to be visible then a shear cut is the best option but takes some practice to get used to the blade offset. Most sheet cuts will be hidden under flashing but raggedy edges look shit and are capable of ruining a good pair of gloves. Without wanting to sound like a smartarse, best way is to take the time to work out sheets at their longest length and pay the cut charge to have them cut to length. Saves more time than it takes. In summary, shears, practice and proper estimation until, your and expert, and definitely no sparks! Cheers.
With practice the nibbler get easier to use. I have the 18v Makita and love it
Good video.
A Diablo Steel Demon Cermet II Carbide Ferrous Metal in a circular saw blade would be a great option for straight cuts when you don't need to worry about the loss of metal protection (paint/galvanizing) at the cut location. You could even use a straight edge or track saw guide for excellent results.
Nibblers are great for non-straight cuts on so many materials (metal, vinyl siding and others). For straight cuts you could use a fence to guide the nibbler.
This is the best tool for this cut job; the manufacturer must be sponsoring this vid for a nibbler.
I use a Milwaukee cordless circular cold saw and have converted other roofers to using it too. Mainly on 5V and other profiles corrugated just isn't used much in residential construction. Nibblers are great for cutouts and vent stacks
does it throw a lot of sparks, too?
Need to invent a shear that cuts angles. Going
Gonna work on that.
Nice demonstration. One method that has worked well for me is to to use a 12" metal shear that you can find on harbor freight. I did have some concerns about it distorting the corrugations, but for the thin gauge of metal I was working with it hardly distorted. It probably would cause some distortion in the thicker sheets used in this video.
Trumpf cordless nibbler: $950
Other cordless nibblers: $350- $500
Cordless grinder: $100-$300
He didn't discuss prices, but the nibbler he is using is for professionals who use it all the time, and there are other brands of nibblers at a fraction of the price. If you're a home gamer it probably doesn't make sense to spend $950 on a tool, especially if you already have a grinder.
I like the Nibbler, but let's be fair the farther away from the bench will cause vibration make for a harder cut. The closer you are to the bench will reduce vibration making for an easier cut. I would like to see the Nibbler go first while it's further away from the bench. I noticed a cut in the video just before the Nibbler was to show what it can do on the second round. Hmmm...
Loves that nibbler! All roads lead back to the nibbler
I recently watched another video in which a roofer recommended AGAINST using a grinder with a metal-cutting wheel on it, because it overheats painted roofing and causes it to rust within 3/4" of the cut edge, after a year or so. FYI.
So if you use galvanized metal you are good to go!
Gotta say…out of these tools, only the grinder can start a cut mid sheet. The jigsaw could if a starter hole is drilled of course..but then you are into two tools and more time (plus the hole is wide which could ruin the perfect edge look!). However, the grinder sparks could be an issue around flammables.
Yah, no kidding.
Of course the further away from the edge of the table, the more shaking.
Look at the unified undisputed champion of the world in metal cutting watching from the top shelf second from left.
Can you recommend a blade?
Very nice indeed. It's also nice to have.
Unless your trade is mainly cutting sheet metal.
Otherwise the other jack of most trade tools are just fine.
great vid thanks so much!
The old classic way to cut metal roofing is with a cane knife. That's a wide blade machete used for cutting sugarcane. Put a metal peg in one corner of the blade, sandwich the knife between two 2x4s and work it like a can opener.. No sparks. No expensive power tools and fast.
Rick
Sounds interesting but I posted a comment about doing it with a piece of wire....
I've always used a circular saw with an old blade installed backwards. Always worked great.
@@Protoolreviews I've always cut metal roofing like George Richardson stated. It works fast and straight.
Yes sir
@@Protoolreviews Yep, my brother in law taught me that trick. He's a framer, they just kept the old blades just for when they had to to any metal cutting, like the corrugated sheets or even aluminum tubing. LoudAF though, not recommended inside a garage.
How about mentioning the cost of the cutting blade on the nibbler and how long they last before replacing
Yeah
Make sure you clean up the nibbler shavings because they can get easily embedded into shoes and air hoses, my air hose has a minor leak from a shaving that punctured the hose after my son did not clean up his mess.
I use 7.25" circular saw with abrasive blade.
It skims right over ridges and valleys with ease
The new diamond blades are a very good option ( I use tile cutting blades in my c/ saw
I use a metal cutting circular saw. Ten times faster and better control. I've also used regular circular saws with a plywood blade installed backwards with pretty good results.
Metal cutting blades work well on a circular saw.
@@mikezahnow1605 - Just make sure the blade is rated for the speed of the saw. My saw turns about 3900 rpm compared to a wood saw that turns about 5800. At least one company, Diablo, makes a metal cutting blade that is rated for the higher speed. Just realize that a wood saw will throw the bits of metal everywhere whereas the metal cutting saws control it much better.
If the sheet is treated you have to go nibbler as the ends will rust if you use the other machines
Nibbler,s are far the best and safest .tried everywhere tool on the market.
Plasma cutter. Fast, easy to use, reasonably quiet.
That's a different price range.
It also burns off the coating
@@jessegreen94 cutting it also exposes the edge. There would be a presumption that some measures would be taken to seal the edge
I prefer a dual saw. It cuts fast and accurately
The grinder is pretty good tool overall but you have to think about heat damage with it. For some materials (e.g. metal with plastic-like coating) get damaged near the cut if you use the grinder.
... for 10 Sterling pounds I bought a nibble which I can put in to combi drill and to cut I upsides down to see the marking line.
Maybe not intended way to use it unless your wearing s glasses and a face shield. You do you
Can the Nibbler cut those brackets used to mount garage motors? Right-angled Galvanized steel brackets with holes in them. Or are those too thick?
You did a great job here but wondering why you did not consider a band saw?
What about the various nibbler-type attachments for cordless drills? Not everyone can afford an expensive dedicated tool for cutting corrugated or ribbed sheet metal.
I clamp a 2x4 and use a circular saw
I have a nibbler, it virtually never gets used. There are several issues:
1, Quite difficult to steer;
2, Difficult to make sharp profile transitions (- the 'throat' of the cut is only so big);
3, Relatively noisy;
4, But the worst item, is the thousands of half-moon shaped razor-sharp shrapnel pieces that gets sprayed everywhere. These are WAYYY worse than some grinding sparks, that stop being a problem as soon as the cut is finished.
Pretty much the only time it's used, is for cutting entire holes, as per the last demo in this video.
$1,100 for the Trumpf!!! I'll stick with my Hitachi corded nibbler $400. After all, we make our cuts on the ground or at a work station where we have power.
Nice comparison. As much as I would love to have one of the nibblers, they are very expensive ($1200)!
I like the cutting wheel - the sparks but seemed best
I use a nibbler ...quick..easy to use
Very nice demonstration indeed, thank you very much!
However, I knew upfront which the best-performing or preferred tool would be. "Horses for courses" , the saying goes. A nibbler is specifically designed for sheet metal. Try the reverse, use a nibbler to cut timber framing or dry wall, cut tubular steel or plywood. Ain't working at all. 🤗
All good, appreciate the effort you've made.
I wonder how a plasma cutter would do? Hard to use in the 'field', and haven't got one anyway. Has a viewer tried that?
Thanks for your acknowledgement and offer of plasma cutter where ever you are, but I'm probably thousands of miles away, hence dealing is not practical.
Very nice thou to have this conversation with you!!
Have since looked up the cost and availability of various nibblers, corded, battery, and found that all of the common brands come in around 600 to 800 New Zealand Dollars, which equals three times as much as a 4'' angle grinder, four times as a Matika corded jigsaw, and half of a Matika corded sabre saw. (consumables not considered). Nibblers are great no doubt, but appear to be expensive. Even if a disk is used up, a blade is broken or blunted, considering the ammount of sheet metal I'm doing, the lesser preferred options are the easier ones still.
Thanks for your work, much appreciated and lovely to watch!!
Cheers, Reiner in New Zealand.
Nibbler is my favourite I wish I could add it with my tools
The only bad thing about the nibbler it has just one purpose. Most of us like to use one tool for many things not just one thing .
Great point. Unless you cut a lot of sheet metal, buying a tool just for this one purpose doesn't make economic sense. Especially when you can use something you already have.
Yeah, I already have a jigsaw and recip saw. Cheaper to buy some different blades than buy a whole new machine for one specific purpose.
If you are into metal sheet cutting daily, Trumpf is your best bet
The heat from the grinder will ruin the paint and make it rust. Or have I heard wrong.
anytime you cut a painted edge you expose the metal and it can rust faster, not limited to one type of tool, if you're worried hide the cut side when installing
The more sparks and metal filings that you generate will add to the rust formation on the metal sheets
Unless you're going to use the nibbler often I would say use any of the other ones anyone you can get the most use out of if you're going to buy a new tool
I would love to know whatyou wuld use for cutting 14mm aluminum diamond plate sheeting,common at Lowes/Home Depot.
Metabo HPT makes a great cordless and corded nibbler
Hi, can it cut 16 gauge stainless steel or do you have anything similar? Thank you.
The grinder cut looked like a disaster with all the sparks. The other methods appeared to cut equally well and would seem fine to cut simple aluminum siding. I wonder how one of those TV Rotozip saws compares. It does look like you're trying to sell those nibblers. Are you sponsored?
Never cut colourbond with a angle grinder it cooks the paint. If you have to cut It 10mm long and trim with tin snips.
im always cutting these steel sheets - a grinder for me with a 1mm blade, everytime
Great video just curious on your thoughts on a circular Saw much faster and cleaner cuts
What if you are cutting 3mm aluminum sheet, what should be used?
Great video! Through and easy to understand. Thanks sharing!
Dang if I could get a jigsaw to work that nice I'd be thrilled.
m18 fuel jigsaw rocks
@@charlesf9065
That and new blades
"lots of sparks" and now a chunk of those sparks are in your lungs. PPE!
Sparks in lungs..lol
i can see allot of broken jig saw blades when going thru the valleys; 3" hi overhand. . how about a cut off saw ?
Fastest and easiest way to make them cuts would be with baling wire. It would take me 10 seconds to set it up and about 2 seconds to cut it. If anyone would like to know how, leave me a request....
I'd like to hear the method?
@@bubolzkm Take a length of wire about 5 feet long. Wrap one end to some kind of screwdriver or a piece of wood. This will be the handle to pull on. Lay the wire down or under the piece of metal that you are wanting to cut. Mark the metal where the cut needs to be. Lay two pieces of 2x4 across the metal to be cut, one on each side of the cut. Attach the end of the wire that is opposite the handle to something to keep it from moving. I put a nail or screw into one of the 2x4's and wrap it around that. Now stand on the 2x4's and pull up on the wire with the handle and it will slice the metal just like butter...
@@dannywilsher4165
Nice ill have to try this.
Will it work On corrugated sheets too?
@@W3BZSL1NG3R Yes it works very good on corrugated tin. That's what we were using when my Dad showed me the trick. Thanks!!!
Lots of examples on CZcams. Thanks.
If anyone cuts your roof sheets with a grinder send them home....great way to ruin them.
JohnnyRingo read the response below.
Never cut galvanize with a grinder...it WILL rust once water touches it!!! The jig saw and nibbler seems to be the best options
I typically use a circular saw with Linux metal Max
Where’s the metal cutting circular saw?
My Thoughts EXACTLY...puts them all in the DUST......Put 3 sheets together and cut all 3 sheets just not 1 sheet.
Diamond blade?
@@ciscobriano carbide. Ruins the blade after many cuts but that’s the cost of doing business. Use a straight edge guide.
Firming up material clampdown would mitigate tool vibration.
Great video
What gauge is the metal in this test video?
I really missed the SCM by Hilti or any other type of circular saw.. they are SO different then a angle grinder. No sparks and clean cuts!
The demonstration avoided the cut that I hate doing most - a diagonal cut across the sheet such as those that are required for wall cladding that must follow the verges of a pitched roof. Keeping the cut to a true straight line whilst following the corrugations with a hand held nibbler is not easily achieved. Only a guillotine can simply produce a straight line otherwise a fence or guide is necessary for the hand held tools to be used accurately.
Great information. Thanks. 😁
no ez way and my valleys are deeper on my old tin. replacements not longe available to must cut up 20 pcs to make my roof longer; enabling proper guttering.
A mini-grinder with a diamond blade works fine, Drag is through the material, don't push.
Rust! ...use a nibbler
What grease are you putting in the nibble gearbox? I have an old n801 trumpf and it's a bear but the directional on maintenance aren't great. It recommends old discontinued grease
Just some ball bearing grease would work fine.
Or some aviation grade grease.
Trumpf 2020
What kind nibble i need for cut shéet metal 26gauge?
You just turn your circular saw blade backwards works really well
Seemed like it was a paid “review” of the nibbler. And as others have said, the further away from stability (clamps) the more it’ll vibrate and move, as it did for the other tools. I thought there was a lot more metal cut away with the nibbler, although it was nice and clean. I think the others if done straight and properly would have given a good result and not go off the line. I only watched the first part, pretty easy to see what this is about. 🤷🏻♀️
The plastic on the jigsaw base gets metal shavings lodged in it and it scratches wooden surfaces.
The further the metal was from the C clamps the more chatter vibrations all tools should have had the same distance, where are the guide lines for your last tests ?
excellent . good video . thank you
Que marca es esa azul? Y quien la vende?
Wear eye and ear protection when grinding , cutting , metal roofing.
Especially the ear protection.
Breathing protection too! don't be an idiot, wear your PPE!
What about differences in noise?
Nibbler leaves the cleanest factory cut edge. The downside are those damn nibbles. They're a disaster.
What blade did you use on the saw saw
Probably a 16 tooth metal blade
@@W3BZSL1NG3R i get tha 24 TPI and that work perfect !👍
If that was 29 gauge steel I think you would have a lot more trouble with some of those tools.
I notice that you are making substantial cuts in galvanized material with a grinder but no protection from fumes. I just bought my first grinder and saw somewhere that the fumes created using it on galvanized are seriously toxic. I am asking just for your personal thoughts and not expert opinion. Maybe I should view what you were doing as minimal and relax a bit. Maybe what I saw was warning against much longer exposures. Thanks. (Happy to hear from anyone.)
The cheapest and fastest option is to cut with tin snips to the second rib, then just tear it by hand the rest of the way. It will tear straight every time. Only for straight cuts obviously.
I heard another CZcamsr, who said he's been working with these materials for several years, say he also prefers tin snips. He did add, however, that it would be extremely difficult to sharpen the blades once they need it without compromising the efficacy/ integrity of the blades. I'm wondering if anyone else has thoughts on that, or if there have been snips designed since he filmed that, that will tolerate being sharpened? (I actually didn't catch the year that he taped his video.)
@@michaelowens1206 Good question. I've had the same snips for 15 years. Sharpening would probably be a good idea. Wondering if they dull much over the years? They seem to more crimp the tin along the curved edge of the snips, rather than slice through the tin. Maybe the design doesn't necessarily rely on a sharp edge..
Nibler and grinder works Best.
If you had cut from the other direction with the grinder you wouldnt have had sparks flying up and to the front and instead down and behind the tool
would be different if supported on both sides.
I go the other direction with the grinder.
Nibbler does have its place as an excellent tool, no doubt whatsoever, but the comparison setup was unnecessarily biased. Who's worried about sparks when cutting metal unless in a hazardous materials site??? With the nibbler as you have it set up, you have better visibility because you're standing at 90 degrees to the cut, but you sacrifice accuracy because you're cutting across your body and not down the cut line. It proves your visibility point, but only by manipulation. Would you use any type of cutting device this way as your primary approach unless you had no choice? No.
Circular saw + carbide blade + straight edge guide...zip zap zam ! Steel or aluminum...doesn’t matter.