I really don’t think it matters, as the sealant is not there to hold pressure. From the factory they just bead the edge to help with exhaust blow by, otherwise it would turn black and look bad. Again it’s not fro pressure, but just to seal back blow by. When you do seal both opposing pieces, you make it very difficult to separate the two, and don’t really accomplish much more in the fact of closing the exhaust up. Hope this helps, and thanks for watching Thomas!!!
Technically Speaking, Yes! He should have. Looks like the packaging even stated that. Also Shows a Picture at the bottom of the instructions on the bag of sealant being applied to the end cap rim that inserts into the muffler bore while the end cap is still out of the muffler a bit. "Step 10. Reassemble the muffler by tucking in the fresh packing material as you slide the core into the canister. BEFORE the front end cap is INSERTED, apply a thin bead of High Temp Silicone around the end cap for an improved seal. Be sure the inner core of the muffler aligns with the rear end cap before fully inserting the front end cap into the canister (Fig. 5). www.fmfracing.com/content/instructions/000362.pdf
Nice! I do remember reading that, and took the route of doing the bead afterward. Good info and I think either way is fine. Thanks Andrew, I appreciate the comment man!!
I have an old white brothers e series for my 426 bit the baffle is busted off so it rattles. Not sure how to fix the baffle or if packing will hold it in place?
No, if the baffle is broken then it needs to be re-welded on. The packing will keep it somewhat centered but it’ll just end up doing the same thing in a very short period. Thanks for watching my friend!!!
So the packing needs to be replaced yet the mufflers are riveted to gather? What kind on design is that? Then there is the issue or spark arrestors. How are sparks going to get through all that junk?
So the packing is there to add back pressure and silence the exhaust. This exhaust has no spark arrestor, therefore is literally fire breathing lol the inner exhaust tube is open and that is how the sparks travel through. The rivets are there for replacement purposes as shown in the video. Good stuff brother! Thanks for watching man!
The only reason for the tape is to hold the packing together until you slide it in the silencer. That’s it, just do as I did in the video and you’ll be fine.
Dude, if you had any idea how many times the camera has died during something important lol it never has happened on an easy step, except in this video. Roll it loosely till it’s slightly larger than the inside diameter of the pipe, not rocket science my guy. Thanks for watching!
Otis Garrigan some people use self tapping screws, but either way works. The river tool will hold up, screws will back out eventually. Check my link in the description below and pick up the tool for cheap! Thanks for watching!
They make it look easy it is not at all mine took days to get off following the utube videos. Ended up using razor blade to cut silicone from underneath the can and a punch to drive the can off. Repacking not easy either always bunching up trying to put back on can and lining up holes don't forget the red silocone either
Lol I wish, and no need. $30 for packing or $200 for upgrade, stock works fine 😛 Nobody but the pros even use all that 450 power to justify it. Thanks Gary, I appreciate you watching!
Alvaro MASTER Beas it sounded like a pop can before. Now it sounds deep and low like it should lol I didn’t get a before sound so really had nothing to compare.
I proved, why HRC | KTM = "Can replace - any core(kor)!" Used - racist "Swap Moto - sound!" And he, illegally - used our prosuct: "On a public - domain?" I.e. Oriental radar! 2nd Amend - "No personal Venue!" Only - chosen mechanics - from our: "Shop can - do demonstrate!"
Anywhere hardware store or online. They are very universal so don’t think that you need OEM rivets, you won’t find any. Buy the match to the ones you drill out.
Awesome. Need to repack my exhaust and your video helps a lot. Thanks, Daniel!
Изолента синяя😂💪. Обычной ниткой достаточно👍
That was super helpful. I will subscribe to show my appreciation!
Thanks man, i really appreciate it! Have a great Thanksgiving!
Thank you so much! That was super helpful!
Thanks for watching and I’m glad it helped you!
nice video repacking my big gun for the first time
Heck ya, thanks man and good luck on the big gun. Those pipes are throaty!!!
Thanks for making this video! I have a LONG Husaberg exhaust to repack.
Your welcome, glad I could help! Good luck with the repack and please share the video!
Very helpful thanks mate
Thank you!
Really good thanks
The old wire wheel works great for cleaning up internal and external parts of muffler.
For sure, and man that is a nasty job. 2 stroke silencers are the worst.
Great video. Wish you would have done a before and after for the sound
I know me too, but it wasn’t my bike!
I done the exact same thing riveting my exhaust and scratched it on the first rivett 😭 Great video though, really useful!
Lol that thing almost shot me in the eye!!! Thanks for watching!
Very helpful thank you
Thanks for watching, I appreciate it!!!
Awesome video
Thanks Robert, glad you enjoyed it!!!
Quick question wouldn’t you want to use the silicone in between the two pieces, not just at the edge of the connection?
I really don’t think it matters, as the sealant is not there to hold pressure. From the factory they just bead the edge to help with exhaust blow by, otherwise it would turn black and look bad. Again it’s not fro pressure, but just to seal back blow by. When you do seal both opposing pieces, you make it very difficult to separate the two, and don’t really accomplish much more in the fact of closing the exhaust up. Hope this helps, and thanks for watching Thomas!!!
Technically Speaking, Yes! He should have. Looks like the packaging even stated that. Also Shows a Picture at the bottom of the instructions on the bag of sealant being applied to the end cap rim that inserts into the muffler bore while the end cap is still out of the muffler a bit.
"Step 10. Reassemble the muffler by tucking in the fresh packing material as you slide the core into the canister. BEFORE the front
end cap is INSERTED, apply a thin bead of High Temp Silicone around the end cap for an improved seal. Be sure the inner
core of the muffler aligns with the rear end cap before fully inserting the front end cap into the canister (Fig. 5).
www.fmfracing.com/content/instructions/000362.pdf
Nice! I do remember reading that, and took the route of doing the bead afterward. Good info and I think either way is fine. Thanks Andrew, I appreciate the comment man!!
What size rivets would you reccomend? Do i need steel ones? Or will aluminium do?
I think either will work, but steel is what was came out. And I think they are 3/16” rivets but I can’t remember?
Great video thank you so much man 👍
Your welcome my man, thanks for watching and please share it with others!!!
Hey, can you show how to replace only the end cap while the exhaust in attached ?
Everything you need regarding that is In this video, unless your talking about the spark arrestor, as this one does not have one.
Does the tape just burn away 🤔
Yep, just burns off and allows the packing to work its magic!
I have an old white brothers e series for my 426 bit the baffle is busted off so it rattles. Not sure how to fix the baffle or if packing will hold it in place?
No, if the baffle is broken then it needs to be re-welded on. The packing will keep it somewhat centered but it’ll just end up doing the same thing in a very short period. Thanks for watching my friend!!!
Great video brother helped out a lot.👍
Glad it helps, that’s the goal! Thanks for watching man!
Wrapping it too tight or loose hinders performance.
Yes sir, it’s can’t be so compressed it’s solid. Good point, thanks for sharing!
So the packing needs to be replaced yet the mufflers are riveted to gather? What kind on design is that? Then there is the issue or spark arrestors. How are sparks going to get through all that junk?
So the packing is there to add back pressure and silence the exhaust. This exhaust has no spark arrestor, therefore is literally fire breathing lol the inner exhaust tube is open and that is how the sparks travel through. The rivets are there for replacement purposes as shown in the video. Good stuff brother! Thanks for watching man!
I’m doing mine on my 08 yz450 and got it apart and wondering what is on the other side of cap. Is there more packing behind there? Thx
I think 08 muffler is different than yours
The 08 is shorter, and no there is nothing behind the cap. Thanks for watching and good luck Grant!
@@DanMX2112 thx you
Is that painters tape you put around the wrap? Did you leave it? It won’t catch fire?
Yes sir, just painters tape. It won’t catch fire, it’s all good, been using it for years.
@@DanMX2112 lol that’s awesome. Thanks for the swift reply. Saw it at work earlier. I’ll use it.
You never mentioned what you used the popcorn for?
Haha 😂 to remain sane! That’s awesome, I’ll be more specific in the future lol thanks Adam!
Good video mate ! Will gone help me a lot ! Can you tell what kind of tape did you use there ?
Just regular masking tape used for painting. It melts easy and comes out on the next job. Thanks for watching I appreciate you Lulian!
Hey mine has this extra mesh around the tube in the Packing should not be in there could possibly be making it louder because it is very loud
some exhausts come with the mesh, but your new packing more than likely will not unless it is oem.
I did mine. First run the exhaust was smoking when I stopped. That normal for new packing?
Usually had a slight smell and smoke to it, normal and no big deal!
@@DanMX2112 yeah was thinking that. Wasn't panicking just wondering. It wasn't an engine Smell pure burning . Thanks bud
Heck yeah man thanks for watching!
Good video next time turn the music down thanks man!!
Noted!
Is the packing just fiberglass?
Yes sir!
Does crf150 have this ?
Yes, it has replaceable packing in the silencer!
What size rivets did you use?
I’m thinking they had to have been 3/16”. I had a kit with different sizes. Whatever hole you drill use that size of rivet.
@@DanMX2112 ok thank you very much.
if u take all the packing will it blow up
The only reason for the tape is to hold the packing together until you slide it in the silencer. That’s it, just do as I did in the video and you’ll be fine.
Seriously? Your camera died JUST at that moment huh?
How many roll around the baffle do you need to do? One, two or more?
Dude, if you had any idea how many times the camera has died during something important lol it never has happened on an easy step, except in this video. Roll it loosely till it’s slightly larger than the inside diameter of the pipe, not rocket science my guy. Thanks for watching!
Took about 6 hours longer then your video. Next time will be better. Thanks for the video
It’s all fun the first time lol I know how it is my man! Thanks for watching!
before and after sound would have been nice :D
I would have, but never got footage of before. The after sound is on the Lake Murray Ride video. Check that out! Thanks for watching brother!
Do you have to have the rivet tool to do it
Otis Garrigan some people use self tapping screws, but either way works. The river tool will hold up, screws will back out eventually. Check my link in the description below and pick up the tool for cheap! Thanks for watching!
They make it look easy it is not at all mine took days to get off following the utube videos. Ended up using razor blade to cut silicone from underneath the can and a punch to drive the can off. Repacking not easy either always bunching up trying to put back on can and lining up holes don't forget the red silocone either
Dude my first one was a nightmare, and some are very stuck. Glad you got done and I hope the video helped out! Thanks for watching!
Bit disappointed the camera died I like point to point videos but that’s alright.
Me too, I was bummed out bad!
Why not buy an upgraded muffler?
Lol I wish, and no need. $30 for packing or $200 for upgrade, stock works fine 😛 Nobody but the pros even use all that 450 power to justify it. Thanks Gary, I appreciate you watching!
how was the sound before and after?
Alvaro MASTER Beas it sounded like a pop can before. Now it sounds deep and low like it should lol I didn’t get a before sound so really had nothing to compare.
@@DanMX2112 great job!!!
You don't even need the band's.
Yamaha did, so I went with it. No biggie.
I proved, why HRC | KTM = "Can replace - any core(kor)!" Used - racist "Swap Moto - sound!"
And he, illegally - used our prosuct: "On a public - domain?" I.e. Oriental radar! 2nd Amend - "No personal
Venue!" Only - chosen mechanics - from our: "Shop can - do demonstrate!"
Who takes the time for this ⬆️
I agree.. this dudes got daddy issues..@@DanMX2112
Where can I buy rivets ? I need ones to fit the stock exhaust to a 2003 rm 125
Anywhere hardware store or online. They are very universal so don’t think that you need OEM rivets, you won’t find any. Buy the match to the ones you drill out.