Watch Before You Buy AGM Batteries
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- čas přidán 23. 01. 2022
- Are AGM batteries right for you? It depends on your needs and if your vehicle is able to charge them correctly. I go over a few reasons why I am not going to run AGM batteries as my main starter battery in the Jeep. I recommend checking to ensure your vehicle is capable of completely charging an AGM battery before buying one.
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#overland #carbattery #agmbattery - Zábava
Do you ever get called Jeremy Renner ? He was in the film hurt locker.
Anyhow thank you for the information and sharing your knowledge
Ha!! I get that a fair amount.
You are very welcome!
I read Ron Jeremy at first before I saw the question was Jeremy Renner
you need to hook up a dc to dc battery charger to that Jeep@@EmbarkWithMark
I thought he sounds like Danny McBride. :)
I have a 2008 Dodge Charger. It has ate 3 lead acid batteries before warranty expired. I installed a AGM battery and it has been going like a champ ever since. I’m happy I made the change to the AGM.
We are happy with the change to AGM in our 4Runner as well. Just not in the Jeep. Even after the wiring and terminals cleaned up.
Everything you said makes a lot of sense. I have a bad agm battery coming out of a car, while other agm batts on my array are older and in better condition.
I use AGM batteries in all my vehicles, tractor and lawn mowers. I've had nothing but great performance from every one. I've only had two go bad. Those were the type with spiral wound plates and I do not recommend them. One battery, a Sears Diehard, is so old I can't remember when I bought it and it's been in three different vehicles and still going strong.
The AGMs in my other two vehicles have been great!
You just saved me a chunk of money! Thanks
Glad I could help!
Makes total sense. My amg battery show full charge but lack of cold cranking amp after just 1 year of ownership
That’s what I have come to experience as well.
Full charge? 13v open circuit voltage?
I have two AGM batteries in my Jeep and you're right, they never get fully charged. I always wonder how people make it work but nobody ever talks about it. Thanks for this.
Yea, it looks like some Jeeps have their voltage regulator set higher than others. Which is most likely why they never have an issue with AGM batteries while some of us do have issues.
The problem isn't your battery it's your vehicle, the charging voltage for a lead acid battery is between 2.2 to2.45 volts per cell The mean voltage is 14.2 volts irrespective as whether it's AGM or standard lead acid. I've never had a charging system charge that low and I've had over 70 vehicles.
I agree! My point is that AGM isn't great for all vehicles, if the vehicle can't charge at the right voltage.
I also agree with the low charging votlage beeing strange. Turns out it's an interesting issue with Jeeps that didn't come with a battery temp sensor from the factory. Voltage in the PCM is set low by default. I have a plan to correct this.
Fix the vehicle which is broken, don't complain about the battery
A bit of a different application, but I have a Kubota tractor that came with a AGM battery with a manufacturing label of October 2012. I managed to totally drain it twice over the years. Still working well today. It charges at 14.5 V.
I’m convinced the charge voltage is key to keeping a healthy and long lasting AGM.
Good video. Tks for the info.
Your welcome, thank you!
I think the biggest issue here is using the AGMs from East Penn, which are the calcium style and not the thin plate style. It’s not that they’re terrible batteries but I think they’re crazy picky. The odyssey/Northstar/X2 lineup seems to be happy and live a good long time in the TJ platform. Or at least ones from a decade ago did, because many of them made it 8-10 years. I doubt those same batteries got worse since then so I bet they’re stu pretty dang good.
I do not understand why various TJs charge at slightly different voltage. Could be a temperature thing. The factory service manuals show a chart and it’s a sliding scale based on temp. Have you monitored at various cold vs hot outdoor temps?
Either way, good luck with the new one. I have not had great luck with any flooded battery either, but hopefully you do. Seems like virtually any batteries can fail at any time. Really makes it hard to make the decision when they all still fail and strand you. Hopefully good luck is achieved with this one.
I really appreciate how you explain everything very articulate good job! 👍
Welcome!
Optimal AGM charge voltages vary considerably with temperature. Out telco style chargers have temperature sensors on the batteries.
X2 batteries suck
Thanks for this video.
I just got an AGM battery and I have two questions:
1. Where do I find the rate my vehicle charges the battery?
2. The new AGM battery while have the same power than the old one, it is considerably smaller. Therefore I can not keep the battery itself tight in the car battery tray. While that create a problem in the future? If it wiggles and shifts while driving may affect the battery performance?
On some vehicles you can change the computer settings. Some vehicles automatically identify the type of battery being used and adjusts accordingly. With other vehicles, you can go into the computer settings screen using the buttons on the steering wheel.
Yep, a lot of newer vehicles are designed to use AGM batteries. Older vehicles, not so much.
Like BMW you have to let the computers know its a new battery or you can damage them
I’ve herd this!
Great video. You are the first person I ever heard explain about the voltages AGM batteries require in order to fully charge to capacity. Thank you.
Thank you!
I have a deep cycle AGM battery in my truck camper and noticed something similar. When I charge through the campers built in Converter I get around 13.8 v after the surface charge has dissipated but when I charge through my so-called Smart charger I do good to end up with 13.7 v. I would think the smart charger would give me the best charge but not so for some reason.
Strange!
I think an external voltage regulator could probably fix this issue for cheap.
Good to note to consider though.
I agree with you that it would.
I did this in my Grand Cherokee and it worked good
My Diehard group 65 AGM battery is 6 1/2 years old, replacing it this week. I'm happy with that.
Oh yea, I have no doubt AGM will last longer than wet batteries. Just depends on how well the vehicle charges the battery.
@@EmbarkWithMark That's right. My P71 has a 370 amp 6 phase hairpin alternator....does 200 amps hot idle.
I've never had a problem with AGM in my Hondas. They get to about 14.4 at idle and 14.8-14.9 when driving. But I do agree that the Odyssey and Northstar lines are far better than the east Penn line.
With your charging system, it makes sense you have not had any issues. My Jeep is always at 13.5. I think It's just too low to charge an AGM effectively. I agree that Odyssey and Northstar are far better batteries.
@@EmbarkWithMark agreed. In fact, the Odyssey needs 14.4-14.8 to charge right. When I emailed Odyssey, they stated anything under 15 is fine.
I will admit that having a car that can start like it's summertime when it's 13 degrees out, is a beautiful thing.
I've had excellent results and my alt charges at 14.2. Less than 14 isn't enough.
there are two ratings on batteries reserve capacity and cranking amps usually as cranking amps go up the reserve goes down because to get more amps for cranking, they make surface like a waffle for more exposed lead which could be why your battery dies more on slow low drains of interior lights on and such while engine is off the agm batteries are lighter because there is less total lead plate for reserve draw.
13.5v is too low for most AGM batteries! You are correct sir!
I replaced the voltage regulator so my alternator voltage won't drop past 13.8v at idle with the headlights on. It goes past 15v sometimes at winter, but that is well within spec. of my particular AGM battery.
Glad you agree.
I wish it was that easy to fix on these Jeeps. The voltage regulator is apart of the ECM. Otherwise I would have done exactly like you have.
Glad to hear swapping the voltage regulator is working well for you!
Was wondering if you guys could help me find out where I would need to look to see if the voltage issue would be an issue with my car.
2023 Mazda3 2.5T sedan
I put a group 35 (that's the group for the Mazda 3) a few months back - haven't had any issues but now I'm starting to get worried.
How about using a diode in series with voltage reference that the reg inside the computer uses? silicon will raise voltage.7volt, Schottky slightly less.
Excellent, thanks
Awesome to hear, thank you!
I've had mixed luck with AGMs. I have a red top that's probably 15-20 years old that I've both used every day for years on end and let sit outside for years on end and it always performs like new after a charge. My wife's minivan however goes through AGMs every 3 years on the dot as soon as they're out of warranty. I should probably check how many volts it's charging at.
I've had the same experience. One Jeep I have charges at 14.0V and AGMs do fine. They also do great in my 4runner with a bit of voltage mod. I really think voltage is the key to keeping AGM happy in vehicles.
great helpfull advise content m8
Glad you think so!
Some people have reported that swapping out the 7.5 amp fuse for the alternator in exchange for a 1 amp diode fixes the problem about charging voltages. Before the swap, people tend to get 13.7 volts. After the swap, people are getting around 14.2 to 14.7 volts.
I’ve herd of this for Toyotas, never for older Jeeps though. I’ll have to take a look at that.
Diodes have a voltage drop & don’t see how voltage will increase 1 amp diode in place of 7.5amp fuse dangerous
@@jonburgmann6246 For our Toyota, I use a drop in board that retains the fuse. It does work well to increase the voltage out put a tad. However, Jeeps do not use a fused sense line like Toyota's do. I was thinking about building a little in-line diode wiring harness for the Jeep to see what happens.
Thoughts?
@@jonburgmann6246the fuse is on the sensing circuit the diode has a voltage drop which causes the sensing circuit to see a lower voltage and therefore charge a little higher.
Yup, an AGM battery for Start/Lights/Ignition (SLI) application in a vehicle that isn't designed for it won't give the best performance.
But, as a secondary system with a DC-DC charger (some can accept a solar input as well) it is a wonderful chemistry.
of course, yours also wasn't getting proper charge voltage due to the loose battery terminal. ;(
I got over ten years out of a pair of Optima AGMs in an old diesel powerplant with regular (once a month or so) full charges with a proper external AGM automatic (smart) charger
Good....thank you!!!
The alternator regulator in most cars will charge to 14.2 to 14.7, you can replace the regulator for one that charges higher in most cases. Newer vehicle alternators are regulated by the pcm and the charging strategy can be quite complex. In some cases, these can be modified, check carefully.
Chrysler started using the PCM to regulate the alternator in the 90s.
This can be modified but through software in the PCM.
@@EmbarkWithMark You may be able to fit an external regulator to control the rotor current or modify the feedback loop voltage using a resistance type voltage divider to fool the pcm. Many of the guys with powerful amplifiers have sorted out the tricks because their amplifiers will shut down during heavy base notes due to low voltage. 13.8Volts is barely adequate even for a flooded lead acid battery, see about getting that up closer to 14.2 if you can. Another group that needs higher voltages are commercial fleets such as fire and rescue where they have abnormal load requirements such as bright search lights and powerful radios, etc. I'm sure there's a cost-effective solution you could implement, you may even find your alternator already has internal regulation capability independent of the pcm, some do. Some alternators can be fitted with internally regulated modules as an option. Talk to an alternator shop.
There is a possibility your pcm may throw a code if you go that route as something to be aware of.
I have a 1989 Toyota pickup v6 2WD out of curiosity should I just get a regular battery or should I go AGM and what would I need to go AGM to charge the battery if I can’t get AGM cuz I keep seeing AGM recommendations for batteries
Thanks, you answered my question about charging. I'm thinking about swapping out my lead acid batteries for AMG in my RV. Since I will be charging them with solar, this will work in spite of the RV controller being setup for lead acid.
Your welcome! I think in your case that would be fine. The solar setup would maintain the AGM correctly in my mind.
Make sure that the charge controller is AGM compatible. You need to charge the AGM battery in AGM mode (higher charge voltage). If using regular WET mode, the AGM battery won't be able to charge fully.
I have a 2000 Toyota Camry that came with a conventional lead acid battery. I ran with a couple replacement conventional batteries as they went bad. Then I started using AGM batteries and they last more than twice as long. My alternator mins out at 14.2v, 13.5v is to low for all automotive batteries. Are you sure you can't change the ECM and increase the voltage?, it appears you are running at the minimal voltage setting and again, 13.5v is too low for all acid type automotive batteries. You are correct though, conventional lead acid batteries will last longer than AGM in abusive conditions (13.5v).
I completely agree with everything you’ve said.
Yea, I’ve tried to figure out ways to increase output voltage. Including purchasing and installing a new factory ECM (not cheap). Some TJ output 14 volts and some output 13.5. Some have a heat sensor in the battery tray and some do not ( from the factory).
The only current method I know to increase voltage output is to modify the wire harness, and add an external voltage regulator. But, one I’m not a fan of modifying wiring harnesses. Two, from my research the external voltage regulators and resistors required to make this work do not seem to have a very long or reliable life span.
I’ve been thinking about contacting a ECM remanufacture to see if they can rehab my original ECM but ensure output voltage is higher. Say 14 volts.
If my Jeep charged at 14.2 volts. I would definitely be running an AGM again.
My 2014 Jeep Wrangler JK idles at 14.04 volts. AGM battery always, no issues.
i think that would be fine, my 4runner is near that and has been great.
Hi there, I just came across your channel looking for a way of stopping the sulfate from Crystallising in the agm battery.
I'm wondering why you are using an AGM battery to crank an engine. A Flooded battery is designed to crank an engine because it can quote with a high amp quick discharge and quick charge to 100% fully charge stage very quickly. A AGM is designed for slow discharge and slow recharge or am I missing something here. As I see it, you're trying to make a plough horse do what a race horse does.
I've got an Interstate M7 (MTX) AGM that I bought in 2015 still going strong which I exercise periodically to break up the sulfation crystals. I called Interstate and an engineer there was kind enough to tell me how to do it and the limits of that battery and what the temps should be held below. They can take a lot of abuse charging wise. My battery capacity is still nearly 100%. I've kept it on one of those special AGM maintainer/chargers since I got it. It was floating the battery at 13.7-13.8v and when I noticed it dropping over many months or years to 13.5-13.6 I would deeply discharge it then charge it up at a medium rate (10A and vary it to a low of 2A). You need to have a fairly high rate without overheating the battery to break up the sulfation crystals at the bottom of the plates to reconvert them.
You really don't need a special alternator or regulator. My old Dodge truck charging system puts out 14.2-14.6 idle with a charged battery. My alternator output is run directly to the battery avoiding any losses in the old wiring.
I'm not sure if using an AGM is the best choice for an off-road vehicle because the plate are packed tighter and could be damaged easier by shock or vibration.
That is all great info thank you! I'd love to know that charging process.
Most of us use AGM in a lot of our rigs with great success they take vibration or shock better than lead plate batteries do.
Agreed no special regulator/alternator. The voltage just needs to be high enough. My Jeep right now just isn't. However, I think I've figure out a way to tap into the PCM and adjust that voltage so it regulates near 14.2.
@@EmbarkWithMark I just recovered a lead-acid battery that I accidentally discharged to 0v (the door lock button in my car was jammed and I didn't find it for 3 or 4 days). It came back real nice and is actually better than before and the resting voltage was at 12.99v after 3 days.
AGM's you really don't want to deeply discharge and if you do they have to be brought up with real small amounts of current to like 75% charge then you can hammer them with more current like 10% of the AH rating until they get near full charge them pulse or taper the current down. I'm sure you know theres very little electrolyte in an AGM so you need to be careful not to boil it off.
So the MTX battery I have is in one of my collector cars and I never 'used' the battery for years just had it connected to one of those 'Battery Minder' AGM charger-maintainers that I bought when I got the battery. It would normally float the battery at 13.85 or so MAYBE 13.76 I can't remember. It did drop a tenth of a volt over 4 years. About 3 years ago I noticed one day the charger was reporting a 'Bad Cell'. The battery didn't have much capacity maybe 70-75%. I was able to recover it somewhat by using a regular charger.
I called Interstate and this is what the guy told me. To 'exercise' the battery and charge it 'aggressively' (within it's limits) to break up the deep sulfation crust at the bottom of the plates. To exercise it you need to run it down pretty low, to what is considered completed 'discharged' or depleted for a 12v battery which is I believe 11.5 or 10.5v. I left the lights on and used some headlight bulbs wired to the battery. Then to charge it up I hooked up a voltmeter and an amp meter to the charger output. I used an old ignition ballast resistor as a current limiter (in series with the charger + lead). I think it was 1/4-1/2 ohm. The voltage went up to 15-16v at times and the current was low around 2-4a to start and then I put in about 10a. You want to avoid at all costs putting in much more current than the battery can absorb to charge. Because it's going to be wasted energy converted to heat and boil off the electrolyte. A little will break up the crystals, too much overheat the battery. 10% of the rating is safe. So the first time I did this the battery drained in about 1.5-2hrs under a 15a load. After I recharged it the time doubled. I repeated the process and it nearly doubled again. I did this 'exercise' process about 3 to 4 times and it was back to 100% of new and this was a 5 year old battery. The biggest thing he told me was to feel the sides of the battery and see how warm it was. This is because the waste heat is what causes the 'gas'. You can figure the wattage you can pump into it by the battery rating. I used an IR thermometer and I think I got in the low 90's. He did tell me they really abused those batteries in the test labs and they can take a lot of abuse as far as currents and temps. They pumped in in excess of 30v which is OK as long as you monitor the current being pushed. Like I mentioned before 10% of the battery rating is OK, but if you have a deeply sulfated battery it will start out slow accepting current and then ramp up so it's necessary to have more voltage to push it in. The long and short of it is you don't want to push more into the battery than it can absorb, if it's heating up it's too much, and repeating the process will break up the lead sulphate. Start out with low current then it will ramp up and you can push in more as the lead sulphate gets 'converted back' and becomes conductive.
Sorry for the 'book'. It's a long process to describe. Good luck!
You can’t stop using amg battery in the proper vehicle. They are for newer cars and designed to drain slower than normal battery.
Thanks for the informative video! I have a 2000 4Runner and have been wanting to upgrade the battery finally. Last time I had my alternator replaced, my guy rigged up a Cadillac alternator that has almost twice the power (amps? Watts?) Is it fair to say that this would help me avoid the problem you’re having? I’m new to learning about electricity and powering devices like a fridge, etc. Thank you 😊
Your very welcome!
I have a 2015 4runner, awesome vehicles!
So it’s less about how much power the alternator can output and more about what voltage your vehicle charges at.
For example my 5th gen 4runner is 13.9. It should really be 14.2 to charge an AGM correctly. ( for the batteries I’ve researched)
Your 4runner may charger higher than mine so I’d just out a volt meter on the battery when the vehicle is running and warmed up to see what the voltage.
Hopefully that makes sense. This stuff can be very confusing.
Just in case you missed it, he is in fact pretty proud of that wiring job! 0:06
So proud, in fact, that I’m removing all that excess wiring. 😂
@@EmbarkWithMark 😁
To heck with it the wires do what they are meant to do. Run it till you get time to do it like you want later
Does your TJ still have its battery temperature sensor? My 98 and 01 XJ’s charge at 14.1 to 14.2. Float at 13.8 which has always seemed a little high to me.
Thats another odd thing about TJ's. Not all of them come with the temperature sensor. Mine does not come factory with a battery temperature sensor. Odd right?
Hey Mark, thanks for the video... just gave it Thumbs up. I have a MB CLK 430 from year 2000 and was thinking of getting an AGM battery, but after watching your video I'm reconsidering.
How do I find out what the charging voltage of my car is and if it will be able to handle an AGM battery?
Stick a multimeter on the battery with the car running. If it’s 14v or higher than your good to go! Glad you found the video helpful!
Interesting my 06 has had the same AMG battery for 3 years so far. I haven’t noticed anything and I only drive it once a week even less in the winter months. I’ll keep this in mind if I have problems with it in the future.
Yea, mine is an 06 as well. I have access to an 04 and the voltage on the 04 is 14.0 volts. It seems that every Jeep, as far as TJs are concerned, are different. I can’t figure out why that would be honestly.
@@EmbarkWithMark mines a automatic transmission maybe that has something to do with it.
It could be. The other TJ I have access to is also an automatic.
watch vids on seting up agm batts.. you cant use them as start batts.there a slow drain batt, i think modern cars charge more, look at your specs.. or you need an mppt, dc/dc charger..hooked to alt..or solar..or both..
Hook a voltmeter up to the battery poles while the car is idling to check the voltage. If it's between 13.8 and 15 you're within the spec for most AGM batteries, and you probably won't have this problem.
I put a Super Start Premium battery ( O'Reilly) in my truck last Tuesday and let it sit over the holiday. Now KEEP IN MIND I have an IID installed on truck. I've had it on the charger for well over 10hrs and I still get no crank. Should I let it sit on trickle charge (2A) or bring it in and have it tested?
I’d go have it tested. A new battery should start the truck. Especially being on a trickle charger for that long. Unless you have some big draw killing the battery that is.
My 2017 Nissan Titan is suppose to use AGM batteries. I didn't know this until one night my Auto headlights came on and 20 seconds later my headlights went a little dim. Took it to the dealer and they told me Titans use AGM because there's a wire plugged into the battery cable and they said it had a Smart Alternator on it and the computer would let it know when it needed more amps and because I had an EFB battery on it it would lose amps causing the light to dim. I unplugged that wire and my lights no longer dim but I worry about it causing electrical issues latter on.
I wonder if this was the problem with my Walmart AGM battery? It went bad after only 1 year and 5 months of use. I was able to take it back to Walmart and get a replacement. My car is a 1998 Nissan 200SX SE-R.
I've heard that you can reprogram your alternator via a tune to output more voltage. Also, if that was done, you trickle charge it every 6 months.
It would be the ECM. Voltage regulator on TJs is part of the ECM. However, I’ve also read this. I need to get ahold of the tuner program and give it a shot to see what happens.
@@EmbarkWithMark please keep me in the loop, good luck dude!
Did you check output at the battery or alternator ? Your wiring looks kinda ruff and your terminal wasnt tight. Not bashing or anything like that i just put a agm in my car and my damn terminal wasnt tight either i just pulled it off. I will definetly put a battery tinder on it. Thanks for the video
Hey, no offense taken. We all learn by asking questions, including me haha! Sometimes I learn the most when you all point something out in these videos.
To answer your question, I did run through the whole charging system. About a year ago I found that the voltage regulator inside the pcm was going bad. At that time I replaced the pcm, ensured the charging system was problem free, and dropped in a brand new AGM.
The term will was in need of replacement. But the real issue here is that this AGM requires more voltage then my Jeeps voltage regulator puts out. There is a kit to by pass the pcm voltage regulator and allows you to set a charge voltage. But I don’t think the hackery required to do that mod is really justifiable. Especially when the only real upgrade is being able to run an AGM battery. At least for my specific Jeep. Glad you liked the video, thanks for asking and commenting!
For a vehicle that is used every day, the 13.8-14.6 is likely achieved while the vehicle is running. I wonder if your wiring problem is a more likely cause of your difficulties. For high current devices, even a small voltage drop on either ground or power wire could be enough to compromise function. It's probably worth while to do drop testing while you get a friend to turn the start key.
I thought that might be the case. I recently disconnected everything but the main harness. Jeep still charges at 13.5v. I recently found that the voltage regulator in the pcm is programmed to 13.5v. I think I can reprogram that or use an external voltage regulator.
13.5 is to low even for a wet cell battery...you need too check your charging system...maybe your computer is bad...or that loose battery terminal...by the way I've never seen anybody put lock tight on battery terminal bolts !! @@EmbarkWithMark
@@juniorcopeland9082 That's incorrect, older vehicles were designed to only output a maximum of 13.4v, even more classic ones only put out about 12.8v, back when flooded lead acid was the only battery technology that was common. Additionally, the batteries put into those systems would frequently last a decade if they were top quality, so the charging voltage was perfectly fine. It wasn't until sometime in the 90's that manufacturers started implementing 14.6v systems when AGM battery technology began to become more prevalent, and many of the newest vehicles can output even more depending on what type of battery is coded to it upon installation, such as in the case of using a lithium iron phosphate starting battery that many newer vehicles are designed to accommodate. The manufacturers have gradually ramped up the charging voltage over the decades to match battery technology because overcharging is way more detrimental to batteries than undercharging, one must be very particular to ensure that overcharging never occurs, so they have always erred towards the side of undercharging slightly with no adverse effects on the lifetime of the battery, provided it doesn't ever sit not being used. In which case you'd want it to be at 100% charge indefinitely, but that is what battery maintainers are for. On a vehicle being used every day, a slight undercharge is of no consequence to the life of the cells and is much preferred over an overcharged state in regards to the longevity of a starting battery.
@@johnny0454 I'm not sure what year your jeep is..I must have missed it ? But I had a 98 Chevy and now own a 2000 Pontiac GTP and a 2002 Chevy Trailblazer...and a 2007 Pontiac Vibe...and they all came with flooded cell batteries in them...and the specs on them are 13.5 - 14.8 on them...the same specs go for AGM batteries too..
I'm only saying you should just update your charging system so you can use an AGM battery because they are much better batteries...not saying your wrong just that instead buying another battery I would have updated my charging system...there's all kinds of videos on CZcams showing you how to do that !!
Yeah Agm requires above 14 volts to properly charge
Good info
Glad you think so!
good to know, thanks
Your welcome!
100% correct. The Jeep Wrangler JK's that came with lead-acid batteries when new are designed to use only lead-acid batteries. The regulator in the vehicle will have a charge profile for a lead-acid battery, about 13.8V mostly, and will also deliver a lower current to charge the battery. A vehicle that came with an AGM battery when new, like the Jeep JL I believe, will have a regulator that gives a charge profile suited to an AGM battery - generally about 14.7V, and higher current - the AGM can take the higher charge rate, the lead-acid can not.
Sure, if you just drop an AGM into a Jeep JK it will appear to work fine. But it will not charge fully, and you will probably shorten it's life - UNLESS you also change the regulator.
I once set up a yacht with AGM batteries, high power Balmar alternator, and the appropriate separate Balmar regulator (which was programmable, so I had to set it to AGM mode).
A lot of vehicles have the regulator built into the alternator, which is a cheaper solution. I don't know about the JK, I heard it is built into the ECM. Unless it can be reprogrammed - maybe a Chrysler dealer can do it - you would need to install a regulator designed to work with an AGM battery if you want to install an AGM battery and get a full life and full performance out of it.
By the way, here in Jan 2024 I am just about to replace my 2014 JKU's original lead-acid battery for the first time. 10 years old, worked just fine until my wife left an interior light on a couple of days ago when it was -30°C / -22°F. Now it won't hold a charge, it is toast. I will just replace it with a lead-acid battery for an easy life, like an Everstart Maxx H6 or an Interstate H6.
Another point - lead-acids should not be discharged more than about 50%, or they will suffer some permanent damage. Hence they are suitable as starter batteries for vehicles. What a lot of people don't know is that the same 50% limit applies to AGMs - take them below 50%, and you will shorten the lifetime of the battery. So again, they are good starter batteries too, and very good if you have the engine running and a powerfull alternator to charge them fast. But for RV's etc, go for lithium (like Battleborn's) that are much lighter than AGM's, and can be discharged fully without causing any harm. But they are more expensive, and also need a special charger too!
Great info! Thank you for adding to this topic.
I got a napa legend. Agm battery that's 8 years old had it tested see the condition of it and guy didn't believe me how old it is still past a load test
I’ve had an AMG exide in my Mercedes ML320 CDi in my car since 2016 and at aug 2023 now is it only starting to give me hassle. Liked this morning it wouldn’t start I normally top it up with a charge every 6 months.
I do the same in our 4Runner. I’ve also added a fused diode that takes the voltage from 13.5 to 14.2. Sadly that’s not something I can do in the Jeep.
I've had a Couple of those Red Top 6-pack style of AGM, go south after lights were left on over a 7 day period. Boosting started the Car, bit afterwards the Battery seemed to only Partially Charge, even though the Voltage coming out of the Delcotron was 15.5. Went back to Wet Cell and things are fine. Latest Car came with an AGM from the Factory, supposedly because it has that Effin Auto Stop. I have permanently disabled the Auto Start, and might switch to a Wet Cell when time comes to replace the Battery
Honestly, I do think AGM batteries are better all the way around. However, the vehicle just has to be able to charge them correctly. I've had the same experience you have in my Jeep. But my 4runner with a voltage mod has been great thus far.
I have found that AGM batteries in aircraft last four times longer. But mine has an adjustable regulator.
Oh I totally believe that! I do think AGM is a better battery. Just needs the right voltage for charging.
AGM don’t like the under bonnet heat either. Better for a in cab or ute tray.
DC to DC charger will boost the charge to specific requirements.
Aussie Redarc BC/DC chargers get a good rap.
Yea, i've heard they don't like heat. That's a problem for a Jeep TJ. Pretty hot under hood temps. A Dc to Dc charger would be awesome if this wasn't my main battery. If I go with a dual battery setup, I will be taking a hard look at the BC/DC charger.
yeh for what price..
Our Transit buses use these type 12v batteres x4. They charge 14v typically. They don't last. Here's how they fail. Our buses use a separate alternator regulator, so when they fail the battery voltage will be below normal while running and the field voltage will be maxed out. Testing them with an inductance tester shows ' Good , needs charge '. Upon replacement, the charge voltage now at 14.0 to 14.2v and field voltage then normal, 9v-13v, depending on system load. Something to look out for sure!
Which batter would you Recommend for a Honda civic HB EX 2019? Thank you.
Depends on the charge voltage. The best way to figure out what battery will work best is to take a multimeter and see what voltage your car charges at. If it's in spec for AGM then go for AGM. If its too low for AGM than go lead acid.
An interesting case study. However, I've just switched to an AGM. My regular battery would go a good one to two years. My last battery went a whopping 16 months. And that's after I put a solar charger on it. Problem solved right? No, after less than a week away with the solar hooked up, my car wouldn't start. So I'm gonna give AGM's a shot. BTW, last month, I fully trickle charged my regular battery to 13 volts and now, it's dead. Your mileage may vary.
If you’re doing lead acid, you need to check the fluid levels , refill as necessary and you can desolfate them. The lead lasts forever. So it’s just the fluid and any crystals. Should also run a charger as part of maintenance when below 13.7/8.
Can I replace non AGM battery on the car that has already AGM battery in it from the beginning when I bough it as new car ?
Sure you can. But I wouldn’t. AGM is a better battery.
i have 14 years old agm varta battery in my aidi a4 diesel,and still work
hello! I have a TJ, what do you think of the Optima batteries? Do they work well in this vehicle? thanks for your content greetings
Depends. Do you know what your charge voltage is?
you should try silicone grease on outside of terminals i use a copper wire splicing grease inside and silicone grease over terminals never get any corrosion.
I’ll try and give that a shot. Right now I’m testing some stuff from noco and it works pretty well!
@@EmbarkWithMark I have seen that just seems kinda expensive and i have too many chemicals already for working on my car so i use silicone grease on everything.
The old made in USA Optima batteries lasted a long time the made in Mexico newer ones go bad fast which is very discouraging since they more than doubled the price. I used to use them but since I got a new one after the old one lasted many years and the new one and it’s replacement lasted only a few months I’ve gone back to conventional.
It’s sad but true ever since Optima sold out to Johnson control and was moved over seas.
Their are definitely far better AGMs out their, but they are seriously expensive these days.
i’ve had agm for awhile 1 up front and one in the back of my 05 tahoe for my sundown x15 subwoofer which needs lots of power to push especially from the amp and my voltage sits around 14.4-14.6, it does drop to the high 12s and lower 13s but that’s if i really push it but ive been satisfied with it definitely gonna go lithium to have no voltage drop but agm does way better in my application that a lead acid battery which my system will kill in less than a year from drawing to much power.
As long as it can be charged correctly, AGM is better. I run AGM in my 4Runner as the main battery and 200 amp lithium pack as a secondary battery for everything we run. Works out great but I have a dc to ex charger in line to charge the lithium correctly.
I measure my voltage and when I crank the truck it goes up to 15.1 volt and slowly goes down to 14.5 for a while and then settles at 13.7 when battery is full. Maybe your alternator needs replaced
Alternator doesn’t control the voltage in Jeeps. The voltage regulator inside the PCM does.
Is it possible that you were not getting a proper charge because your terminal was loose?
A loose terminal is never good. But this isn’t a recent issue either. Voltage on my Jeep specifically is too low to maintain an AGM properly.
I’ve been testing the voltage for a very long time to understand where the issue is. To include replacing the ECM, since the voltage regulator resides inside the ECM on Jeeps.
Best recommendation I have, If you are interest in moving to AGM, is to test the charging voltage of your vehicle and ensure it’s above 14.2. From my research that’s the minimum to properly charge AGM batteries.
On my XJ I got tired of the computer and it's unwillingness to charge ANYTHING correctly. I went ahead and put a regulator on the alt that bypasses the computer. Google Transpo regulator Jeep and you should find it. Just like an older vehicle now. Battery needs juice, alternator gives juice. No more, "Well ya know maybe at this temp but it's not really this voltage cause maybe the moon isn't in the right phase" stock computer issues.
ROFL! I am looking into that option, I've also found an option that allows us to set the voltage in the PCM with some software. The software is not very affordable though.
I had my agm battery 12 years. No problem. I'm not sure what battery you had. 2012 audi a7
What’s a good battery charger for AGM & flooded lead acid?
I'm personally a fan of these. amzn.to/3KUB9JU
Where do you purchase the Battery Terminal Spray . Don't see it on Amazon . Thanks
I’ve actually switched to this stuff and like it far more!
czcams.com/users/shorts7WED_lIcOJ0?feature=share
Its your jeep the one you need to tos out. AGM batteries are great... they are also designed for newer vehicles not WW1 Jeeps....
I’m having same issue with AGM battery in my 2013 Nissan Rouge
@@MikeSmith-tu1ln Rogue is not a vehicle one would use as a bench mark of quality.
@@noblekitty has 200k miles with no issues besides the battery. It’s a 2013. Runs and looks like new. As if jeep is quality lol
@@MikeSmith-tu1ln whenever I hear someone claimed that a 3 years or older still drive drive like new, I know right away that person is either full of bs or don't know what they are talking about. Why? Because a friend of mine always leases a new Lexus every 3 year. And every time he got a new one, the first thing he said was man, I can't believe how much better and quieter the new one drives. And alot of time, they are practically the same car with some facelift.
@@noblekitty you can definitely keep a car running and driving like new for more than 3 years lol does your buddy regularly do maintenance on his vehicles? Or he just driving it, there's also the factor of getting something brand new and being in that "honeymoon" phase of owning it where everything is 100 times better cuz it's brand new and a lot of money
So my mazda Charges at 13.8-14.1, so you think an agm would be fully charged ?
I think your right on the edge, but would be okay. You could always through a charger on it once in a while to top the battery off. I do this anyway out of practice. Helps extend the life of the batteries.
My car came with a AGM because of the start stop. The alternator charges it at approx 14.4 ish volts
Yea, if your car came with an AGM then you have the charging system to support it. 14.4 volts sounds about right. I wish my Jeep charged at that voltage! Thank you for sharing!
@@EmbarkWithMark however it has that energy recouperation system. A lot of the time the alternator will only charge the battery when you let your foot off the accelerator when slowing down. All for emissions to reduce drag on the engine when accelerating. Of course when the charge gets below a certain level the alternator will kick in regardless. It will have periods of constant charge.
When you are driving along i have seen the voltage at around 12.8v. When you let your foot off the gas it shoots up to 14.4v. When the battery goes below a certain voltage it will constantly charge at 14.4 for a few miles. The car keeps the battery at around 80% charged on average. It never fully charges it. It’s to allow for the energy recouperation. My overnight resting voltage averages between 12.5-12.6v ( fully charged AGM should be 12.8-12.9v)
My car is now 5 years old and still on the original AGM battery. The AGM’s are tough little suckers to put up with the abuse my car gives it and not to mention the start stop system. According to VCDS ( diagnostic tool) the engine has been stopped/started over 40,000 times in 5 years. All in the name of climate change and emissions 😫
@@EmbarkWithMark if the fkn thing is loose, obviously,its going to go flat..lucky it didnt burn to the dirt..ever thought of maintenance, like, clean, check,oil, once in a while..
@@EmbarkWithMark theres a regulator you can buy, that charges the std batt to 13, then the agm to 14. then back to the std bat or which ever needs charge most..mppt.
@@EmbarkWithMark you need 2 batts, std & agm for accessories, fridge, lights ect. a std batt will die in 2 hrs..
Does higher amps from alternator do the work?
Thank you
Unfortunately it does not. I wish it where that easy.
Wiring Job, just add a fuse block. One positive wire from fuse block to the battery and then all your accessories get there own fuse and output wire. Outta sight.
Yea, I do need to add a fuse block. Just trying to find a nice one/ figure out a good place to put it.
My '01 w/factory alternator does and has always charged to 14.1v. Been running agm for several years without issues. Did you ever look into those alternators from JB Electric?
I find it odd that some TJs run in the 14s and others like mine run at 13.5ish. Out of curiosity is your Jeep an automatic or manual?
I’ve not looked into those alternators yet, thank you for reminding me!
32rh auto, 4.0L, original pcm. Those JB's are worth looking into. They build them brand new with all new case, components and materials at roughly the same cost as an "OEM" alternator from the parts store; which you KNOW has been rebuilt at least once. Being that it's all new, I don't recall them charging a core either.
I still have the original alternator in my '01, but my rock buggy (which has a 4.0L stroker) has an OEM spec JB alternator which has performed great so far with an AGM.
...and as I'm thinking on it: the pcm sets the charge value for the alternator. So, even if your charging system is all proper, the wrong setting in your pcm can limit your charge value, i.e., your charging voltage.
Do you have a tuning device that you can use to check and adjust that setting in your pcm with?
I remember something about your pcm being replaced last year.
Mines a automatic transmission also.
Mount the solar panel on top.😎👌
That would indeed fix the issue!
@@EmbarkWithMark I've mounted solar panels on top of all of my heavy equipment and semi trucks. Now I need to adapt some to my light trucks, SUVs and muscle cars..🤔👍
That's interesting. My last 3 cars, GM, Kia and Hyundai all output 14.2v to 14.4v with the battery connected. I wonder if you had a larger alternator or a smaller battery if the voltage would get a little hire. It would be concerning to see the voltage in the under 14v with the alternator running. Could you have a mismatched battery size for the size of alternator?
The battery size is standard for the vehicle. Alternators do not determine the charging voltage. The voltage regulator does. Jeeps from 90s on up have their voltage regulated by the ECM. So the only way to adjust that is to get software and adjust those settings.
Because of this a larger alternator wouldn’t increase voltage. It would have the ability for more amps if the draw was their, but the voltage will remain the same.
Hopefully this makes sense.
@@EmbarkWithMark Makes sense. Surprising alternator voltage is a function of the ECM. I guess they have a reason they wanted to control the voltage.
It is possible If you add too many accessories to the std car with a small alternator to reduce the charge voltage.. the drain will be to great for the alternator to supply run properly and charge and the voltage will drop. You can tell your beyond the limit if the charge voltage drops at night with lights on AC on fan on at max. You seem to have added 4 extra lines to your car std charge system.
@@danc2014 only if those accessories are pulling current. And in this case when driving on the road or idling in this video, none of those added accessories are pulling current.
Change the car or alternator, my 2002 audi A2 1.4 tdi charges with old alternator to 14,4V. My biggest benefit of agm is there no offgassing of corrosive gas(hydrogen, oxygen) so the wiring around the battery does not corrode(including tail lights)
Changing the alternator won’t help in this case since the voltage regulator is internal to the ECM.
But I agree AGM is hands down better, if you have the right voltage flowing to it.
Any recommendation for a good alternator for AGM battery?
I don’t, the only reason, TJs have voltage regulators built into the PCM. So it doesn’t really matter what alternator you buy, the PCM will control it, unfortunately.
I had good results, but my alt charges the battery at 14.2 volts. I also had a very bad experience with a wet cell internally shorting due to off roading causing it to overcharge and basically blow up. The acid ate the brake booster valve which made things very dangerous.
I wish my alternator charged that high! I’d be running AGM instead.
Wow that is a scary scenario. I also had a lead acid battery short after years of off-roading.
AGM is a better technology no doubt. But It’s hard to recommend it if your vehicle can not charge it correctly.
@@EmbarkWithMark All alternators can charge at 14.5 volts, you just have to replace the regulator. Mine is bolted on the alt, but most are internal. Basically they turn the alt on when the voltage dips
@@The_Ballo Jeep switched to the ECM regulating the alternator some where in the 90s I believe.
So for this rig, I’d need software to adjust it. I’ve been through one computer replacement with no change. The odd thing about TJ in particular is that some charge at 14.0, some charge at 13.5, some have a battery temp sensor, and some don’t.
But I do know how to increase the voltage. Just need to get my hands on some expensive software.
@@EmbarkWithMark Good grief, just more electronic crap to break down when you're in the boonies
@@The_Ballo I don’t disagree. It’s rare to have an ECM go bad, but if one does. Not much can be done.
Not that it would solve your computerized voltage regulator issue, but the loose battery terminal didn't help at all. Once had a battery that wasn't charging because a ground wire came loose. It was in a hidden spot so I had some problem figuring out why the voltage would swing wildly (as the wire would swing back and forth in the engine compartment - fortunately a diesel engine but still!)
Agreed! I do need to correct them and have, but that doesn’t fix the regulator issue.
Wow! Yea, I’m actually looking into replacing all the charging cables anyway just because of their age.
AGM batteries are for modern computer full machine which are powerhungry, looking at the hood of this jeep its old gens and best with them is lead acid.the charging is indication of that.its not always about upgrading.If you machine has a computer that can limp mode it Agm, if you machine doesnt lead acid.simple
Nice review sorry about your jeep but this way is around that problem when it comes to AGM you need a specialist to help you with your electrical and then a secondary system just separate from the cars system since the jeep comes with the built-in computer you need a modification That’s more reliable because that’s kind of expensive to keep replacing the computer. Every time the regulator goes out it’s better alternatives out there. I think AGM batteries are good depends on the manufacturer, but good luck.👍
Hey, thank you! There are some work around for my Jeep. External voltage regulators, programming the computer. Just have to pull the trigger on a option and see how it goes.
I do think AGMs are much better batteries. I run them in two of my other cars. But those cars produce higher voltages and the AGMs seem to really last a lot longer in those cars because of it.
I’ll figure it out one way or another thing, thank you for watching and commenting.
AGM is best maintained with a different charging algorithm than FLA. Is not just “13.5 vs 13.8”. Fords can be programmed for AGM vs FLA using Forscan. Smarter battery vendors do not recommend AGM for 2016 Subaru, but those who only sell AGM happily recommend their AGM.
You may have noticed your battery maintainers have separate modes for FLA and AGM.
You can use a dc to dc charger set it to know its going to an AGM battery
I don’t think that will work for the main starting battery.
@@EmbarkWithMark I am using a a renogy DC to DC with MPPT built in 50 amp DC to DC charger from my main battery to my house battery but I have a sprinter van so it might be different because my main battery under my driver seat is also AGM. so you might be right my alternator must be setup to charge AGM since thats what comes stock on the 6 Cyl diesel sprinter van. but they are settings built into my charger that let you select led acid/AGM or lithium if you have a BT-2 you can change it on the App. I believe Victron has similar dc to dc chargers available on the market
You may be on to something. same issue on european cars with bosch alternators they really charge at 13.1v 13.5 max maybe thats my issue. Havent had a good track record in my fleet even a jeep xj it was drained twice by accident never recovered. I like the agm concept so far ive had 100 failure on four agm four different cars. Two champion agms one everstart and one diehard
While I don't like hearing people are burning through expensive batteries, I do like that my thoughts are not too wildly off kilter. LOL. I really think the voltage just needs to be higher on these vehicles to take care of AGM correctly. My 4runner has an AGM in it and it's doing great. But I did install a diode that ups the voltage a little bit.
so
wh did u put in its place ?
or is that not important piece info ?
I put a standard car battery.
Your explanation was top notch .My question is how do you know how your car is charging? With a mustimeter ? How is the process?
Glad you found the info useful!
ya, you have it right. Start your car, let it warm up fully, than check the charge voltage with a multimeter while the car is running at idle.
@@EmbarkWithMark Thanks mate really appreciate , I am having a pickle with the choice of battery. I measured the charge rate and its 14.781 V, on Varta website is advices me 2 batteries theBlue Dynamic EFB 575 500 073 (E46) which it recommends, however there is a 2nd choice Silver Dynamic AGM 570 901 076 ( A7) , was trying to see the Charging rate of both batteries but could not find. I was inclined to the AGM, as seems to be better battery but don't know if will be the better for my Ford Mondeo Fusion mk5.
@@coolissimo69 your very welcome!
If you charge voltage is ~14.7 when warmed up, than I would go with a good AGM battery. :)
@@EmbarkWithMark Thanks mate you got a new sub.
@@EmbarkWithMark do you know what should be the charge of this AGM battery?
Your experience is 180⁰ from mine. I'm on my second DieHard platinum AGM (no longer available) in 12 years. The first one went 8 years. My electrical system is 100% OEM except for the AGM battery. Could it be a difference in high quality TPPL (thin plate pure lead) AGMs like the old DieHard platinum, Odyssey, Northstar, etc and the lower quality calcium AGMs from parts stores?
That could be part of it. I’ve also found out that Jeep TJs can have a wide variety of charging voltages. I have access to a stock automatic 4.0 and that Jeep charges at 14.0 volts consistently. Very strange to me at least.
he didnt maintain it or use the correct charging system. agm are not start batts, there slow drain for fridges, acc,s.. ect.. you need 2 bats, std & agm. pointless having agm for start batt.
@@harrywalker5836 WRONG! There are many different kinds of AGM batteries.
Some are deep cycle batteries, some are start batteries...
Some are specifically made for boats, some for industrial equipment, while others are for solar cell setups in off grid cabins, etc...
Up until about 8 years ago, the (Sears) Die Hard Platinums WERE Odyssey Performance series batteries with Die Hard stickers/logos on them, and a grey and black case color. 😉
I’ve herd this!
I would get 2 years out of a standard flooded lead acid battery (OEM Panasonic) in my 2008 Mazda3. I get 7+ years from AGM batteries (Optima RedTop) in the same vehicle.
You have a voltage drop issue somewhere in the charging circuit. A normal car alternator will charge 14.2 volts. Just because your jeep meets the minimum spec doesn't mean it's working correctly. Charging any lead acid battery at 13.5 volts will cause the battery to sulphate.
You likely have resistance in your cables or connections. A new battery isn't going to fix this issue. Learn how to do voltage drop testing and find the resistance in your charging circuit.
So, I've done additional testing. Turns out certain models of Jeep TJ that do not come with a battery temp sensor have the default charge voltage set at 13.5v from the factory. I had to dig into the PCM to figure this out. Once I have the rest of the stuff I need to program the pcm, I'll show how strange this issue is. But, I still stand by the purpose of the video that AGM does need the right voltage to charge correctly.
I have used AGM batteries a lot bro! I used them in banks of 6 for car audio and starting batteries. Kinda crazy you have had issues with an AGM.
Not that crazy, my other vehicles do just fine. I imagine you are charging that bank either with a charger or the alternator is putting out the proper voltage for AGM.
you sure the wiring/terminal wasn't part of your problem?
Positive.
In older jeeps they did charge a bit weaker. How one of the first things you do with any jeep is big 4 and replace the braided grounds with at least a 4 gage ofc. Lol trust me i do understand the cj issues 🤣 😂. But you can easily fix that witch you should anyways for those trails 😆 🤣 😂 plus there's a few other things u can do to help those monster machines
Some TJ's charge weaker. It's a setting in the ECM. I have three TJ's this one charges the lowest with no battery tray sensor, the other two ( 04 and 99) charge at 14.2 volts exactly but have battery tray sensors from the factory. I think I've figured out a way to adjust the ECM voltage regulation, just collecting the hardware to do it.
some older vehicles the alternator don't have a voltage regulator that's why when u put accessories u start having charging problems and starting problems easy fix upgrade the alternator.
I think those vehicles have generators not alternators. At any rate, even with a regulator one could still be at the limit of an alternator. In my case the regulator on the PCM is just a bit to low to support AGM batteries. However, I think I have a solution to adjust this, finally.
I have an optima yellow top deep cycle AGM battery used for emergency and police 🚨 I have never had a problem with this type of battery.
U can use an external regulator
Yea, that is one option I am looking into.
As far as I know, one of the benefits to AGM is that it doesn't leak acid and have corrosion problems? I was thinking of switching to AGM on my 2007 Toyota Corolla.
Absolutely a benefit. And if your Corolla has high enough charge voltage to correctly charge the AGM I’d say go for it!
@@EmbarkWithMark Thanks Mark. I wonder how I would determine whether it has enough charge voltage?
Start your car, let it warm up fully. Take a multimeter and check the battery voltage with the car running at idle. That will give you what your charge voltage is.
Hope this helps! Just be careful around a running engine.
@@EmbarkWithMark Thanks. I will give it a try
@@EmbarkWithMark I was watching Project Farm's car battery review and it looked like the AGM ones didn't perform as well as the standard ones. Maybe it's not worth the added expense. Would be nice to not have to deal with corrosion and having to clean the battery terminals. I want to get some of the battery terminal protection spray and see if that helps at all. I currently have a Duralast Gold battery. It's still going strong from 2015, but, I'm getting sick of the corrosion. I put some of the terminal grease on it last time I cleaned it. Didn't seem to help much at all.
What is one of these to not get corrosion ? Wtf ?
I use AGM batteries in my RV trailer and my tow vehicle. Their lifespan is nothing unusual. I do keep my trailer battery on a trickle charger when not in use. This trailer battery has outlived it's warranty period.
On a side note, I heard you mention something about the battery and you Jeep's computer. There is a guy who runs a vehicle junk yard and has one area where he specializes on rebuilding Chrysler computers. No other brand of vehicle computers, just Chrysler.
Honestly, AGMs do seem to last longer. However, in my expereince that's if they are maintained correctly. Sounds like you are doing that by using a charger. AGMs are wonderful on my other two cars, just not the jeep with such a low charge voltage.
Good vid. you should be able to adjust the regulator up a bit. i'm sure the v alternator can put out 14 no problem. maybe there's a youtube vid how to adjust regulator on your alternator.
unfortunately there is not an easy way to do this. The voltage regulator is part of the ECM on all jeeps starting mid 90s or so. I have an idea that might work. Stay tuned!
@@EmbarkWithMark Ok. i guess you just have to find the voltage sensing wire & fool it with a Resistor or something like that. or Totally external - Different alternator & External Regulator. Edit - if there's a will there's a way.
@@OcRefrig Exactly! There is a way, just need to think it through.
@@EmbarkWithMark Call a Alternator fixing place or Manufacturer of aftermarket alternators.