If you want to cut the vibrations down, pour a concrete base to bolt the lathe to. Filling the voids in the headstock with concrete will help a lot too. And definitely add oilers to the bearings.
Leaving those bearings open so chips get into them is a bad idea. You need some oil seals on them. Chips, dust, dirt etc can get in there in NO Time. I have a question. Why did you use a solid shaft instead of a hollow shaft you could pass through for longer items? You can probably reduce your run out on that chuck by turning the mounting surface behind it again. You turned it then took it apart to make your adapter, put it back together without checking that surface again. Also you can take the chuck off, rotate it to the next set of mounting holes and try it again. That tiny amount can make it better or worse but you won't know until you try it. I highly recommend some sort of oil seal to keep debris out of the bearings and to keep the grease in them. I would have liked to see you test the run out of that metal piece you turned. It looked very good. Also you can grab that piece once turned and wiggle it up and down and side to side to see what kind of wobble you have in the bearings with the dial indicate on it. I really like this home made lathe. I wish I had one :-) Keep up the great work. Cheers !
The lathe looks awesome! This is the first video I've seen of it(new subsciber). I hate to reiterate what everyone else said but I agree, those bearings need grease. They may not get as much wear as they would inside an axle but they will get worn out pretty fast. I'm not sure how an oiler system works but maybe drilling the bearing housing so you could use a Zirc fitting or something.
You'll kill those bearings in no time running them dry. They're meant to be packed with grease. Grease seals on both sides would be advisable to keep the grease from being flung out and to keep chips out of the bearings. To vary the spindle speed, stepped drive pulleys are the simple way. Variable speed is nice but you can usually get close enough to the ideal surface cutting speed with a pair of stepped pulleys.
wouldnt sealed roller bearings be a better alternative. of course the tapered bearing can take out the slack as well as being cheap but definitely the idea of them not sustaining sufficient lubrication seems pretty legitimate.@@mrgreenswelding2853
Good job. Yeah. Other than the bearings not being lubricated I still give you an A plus. You made something i would have never attempted to do myself. Smart kid. Love your builds man. Keep up the great work. Im a new fan of your channel & seen the entire lathe build. Love it. To take some scrap steel & turn it into a useable tool worth a lot of money to buy even a used 1 is awesome. I generally build stuff i need for tools, just nothing as complicated as a lathe. I never imagined of building one either but you gave me motivation to maybe build 1 myself. Especially after seeing how much better you made it every time you did an important to it. And seeing how exactly you made some of the parts. I used 1 as a kid in school and loved making things with it. Maybe when I get my new shop setup i will try to build 1 myself. You get a pat on the back from me. Keep up the good work & awesome builds. Cheers for your future as a true machinist
One to create another even better. That is how we have soooo many fine things to work with now. Well done fella. You must remember that only one bearing is needed to hold a shaft. All in all a great build fella ! Regular greasing is a must as well to pressure the stuff out of the chuck. Steel for tat tail end hub will give you less grief in the long run as well. Indicate the chuck alignment plate. That is most likely where your runout is but at the same time, a 10 $ chuck is not a 700 $ unit. Always tighten at least 2 chuck screws too. That will help a lot and NEVER run a dry bearing bud. LOL, time will get ya all dialed in fella. Great build ! Yer noggin is doing great fella !
Always take apart new Chinese made chucks and clean before use. They are normally full of casting grit and junk. Grease those new bearings! They'll burn up in no time with no lube.
Oh Hell Yea!! Good work man! I like this series, you have an engineering mind. I agree and liked other's comments about those bearings needing lubrication AND seals to keep grease in and keep grime/dirt out. You're two speed transmission for go-karts, or a version of that design might work with changing speeds on your lathe.....just a thought. Keep up the cool ideas, I'm a long time fan from your beginning.
RBW bubby i'm proud of you for doing this for yourself im sure you will improve it in time but you have to start somewhere and you got a big jump on this when you built it. glad to know of you.
Well, as I saw your first video my thoughts were "That ain't gonna work even close to a lathe.." But you officially stunned me. This project turns out to get better and better ;)
my factory lathe has the same runout on the external chuck.. No worries, you need to dial a precision ground rod in the chuck to see the real runout anyway.. looks damn good to me
good job!, but as others have already stated the bearings you have installed are often installed along with a oil/ grease seal on both ends to keep in lubricant and keep out contaminants so that you can get longer life, reduce heat buildup and friction. Grease will be the best bet for most of the RPM you'll be using, anything over 1500 rpms and a good gear oil is the way to. As for gearing, go with a large motorcycle transmission, some other DIY lathe guy used one, and you being a gear head, I figured that would be right up your ally.
Awesome lathe.You hit the nail on the head when you took the head apart.People use air to clear the teeth and it blows the chips Into the back of the chuck.Eventually it won't clamp down right.(I used to operate CNC lathes and grinders with pneumatic chucks.They'd get filled with chips and Not clamp tight,or true)Higher speed with slower feed equals less squeal.
Dude, as an ASE Master since 78, I have wanted a metal lathe for sometime now. You have a nice sweet setup. For those tapered wheel bearings, I would suggest a plate with an O-ring around the housing. I know you used the rear drive plate to preload the inner bearing race, as a huge nut, locked in place would be almost impossible. But without a center grease seal, those tapered bearings are going to collect more metal shavings, dirt, dust and anything else in the shop. A flat thin plate with an O-ring groove in it to help seal the back of the chuck. A brake lathe has a convoluted rubber boot over the main shaft. I will be the first to admit, these will be design challenges but needed. But build yourself or pay 45k for a nice used one. Only one who would give a thumbs down should be told that. It has been said; It ain’t yours unless you build it. I would never be able to get as far as your lathe is now, but I just want to say, excellent job in your work. I wish a salvage yard would be as generous as yours is. Liked & subscribed!
Need to find a way to pack Grease in your bearings. auto bearings need it. See if you can find some grease seals for them. It would be sad having to take it back apart in a short time to replace them. Great job and videos. keep them coming.
I'm finishing up a homemade milling machine and have started getting the parts together for my own lathe build. You did an excellent job here, fuck what anyone else says. It's impressive as hell.
Great job... The 2nd lathe I'm building will use concrete for the frame, I have a 3hp treadmill motor, I figured out the speed controller and it is quite simple, it seems to have quite a bit of torque at lower speeds, might add a 2nd pulley to gear it down, I am going to also put a treadmill motor on my small craftsman lathe to test out the tread mill motor, I get these treadmills free off of Craigslist, got about 5. I like your bearing setup, I never thought of it, I was worried about preload on my setup I thought about using a crush sleeve, for my oiling system, I am going to install a controllable drip system. The feed system I thought about using a stepper motor and control it with an aduino, don't know if it will be strong enough or fast enough. I'm playing around with adding an encoder to a lawn mower starter motor, of course I have to cast a housing. Looking at my craftsman lathe all the feed and speed for thread cutting is done thru gears even the reverse. I did print a 3d gear for my small lathe it's going on 3 years, don't know how it would hold up on a big lathe, may I can print the gear then cast it. All work in process, good luck and can't wait for the next video.
Been following the series and man... hats of to you! Superb motivation for the project :) Congrats. Word of advice only: beware with the very week support (only one screw) on the cutting iron at 5:55 minute. It may fly away towards you. On the side of that: congrats for the example you represent for most of us!
Nice upgrade! I would try some cutting oil. Even with carbide. It sounds and cuts a lot nicer on my lathe when I use cutting fluid. Also I would put some oil on the bed of the lathe, it looks dry. Manual on my old lathe is very particular about lubrication, so I always keep everything nice and oiled
Now that you made your leis you continue to improve it better and better and better and getting the tolerances closer and closer you can tell by when you did the aluminum when you were cutting it it's shiny now instead of dull you're doing a great job
Been watching your work for a while now,had to leave a comment..your know nonsense approach to all your builds,is inspiring,and the quality awesome..the CBR600 build your doing now 2019,I'm really looking forward to seeing on the road..would be great if you started a business doing what you do..the possibilities are endless,..anyway, Respect.🙂👍🇬🇧
Dude you're doing way better because it was five or six thousand out before and now you got it down to one one and a half that's great as you keep working on it you're going to get it better and better every time look at that you started Major Lazer and you using all the tools that you made to make it better to constantly improve it great job totally awesome
I know this is old as hell but you can buy a small 4speed 110cc atv engine, then gut the top end. Remove the crank and make a straight shaft with a pully or gear on it then hook your motor through that into the lathe. You would have a 4 speed gearbox with reverse. Was the best gearbox idea i was able to come up with.
Привет Американский брат! Пишу тебе из далёкой России, я здесь тоже занимаюсь станкостроением:) вроде что-то тоже получается. Хочу тебе пожелать успехов в этом деле, большое спасибо за полезное видео!!!
Dude! This is awesome. Gearing: Grab a 5 speed manual transmission from the junk yard, and a 2 or 3 belt pulleys to increase your number of speeds. 2 belt speeds will give you 10 speeds. I would go for it, and do a 3 step belt pulley for 15 speeds. Put the pulley stack between the bearings. Now put a pulley stack on the end (5 steps) and attach it to the saddle screw. With the right combo you will have auto feed.
Looking at the construction through the series i would now guess that some of the chatter is coming from the slides on the carriage not being tight enough. If it is possible, simple filling and shimming on the edge of the main carriage plate to move the sides in as close as possible to base would help with chatter and accuracy a lot. For a speed control an idea would be to use something like a quad or dirt bike gearbox from a blown engine for a gear drive speed control, after removing the cylinder head and piston, replace the flywheel with a pulley for a motor and then a simple sprocket and chain drive to the lathe spindle would easily handle the power. Being a machinist myself has made it relay interesting to watch the construction of this with limited tools.
It is more than a good enough for a homemade lathe! I bet I could use it on professional purposes in cases where high precision is not needed! Looks solid enough! Great work! By the way if you combine steel and concrete (with some additives) in moulds you could get a less vibrating construction but I guess it will take some inventional thinking.
Well done! I'd have tried to do threading with the old setup before moving on, though. You can use bikes' gears and chains, if no other is available, to produce something around 14 and 20 tpi by 2 or three inches long at the back side of the new spindle, so that you can preload the bearings properly, and you'd want to use the same setup to make two matching nuts as well. If you key the spindle between the thread up to almost the rear bearing, then you just need a (key'ed) gear between you (key'ed) pulley and the rear bearing to call it a finished spindle. About the bearings' housings, and as you've put that much effort on them (don't you have a hacksaw or bandsaw?), I think the simplest would be to make four rings to allocate oil-seal rings for these bearings on both sides (these should cost a dollar each or so, and come exactly for the size of your bearings). Then weld the rings to the front and back side of each of your plates, and bob's your uncle. Don't fill the housings with more than 1/3 max. of the bearing's diameter and depth in grease. Unfortunately, and despite what others say below, these bearings will run much slower and hotter in grease than they'd in oil any day, just like pretty much any other bearing. Oil is always the preferred lubrication method, while grease is used as a substitute in maintenance-free and some other very specific applications. My two cents!
Rheostat's a dimmer switch which is old school and suck. You are right about not having the torque using one, would just bog down the motor under load if you don't fry it first because they run hot. Now a days equipment uses a digital signal, meaning the full power is pulsed to get the speed. In other words, the full speed would be no pulses in 2 seconds, as half speed would be 2 pulses of full power a half second apart in 2 seconds, to control speed for a motor. You get the torque from the full power pulses. Those old bearings are still mint. The lathe at my job has at least twice the run out on the chuck and I use it for some precise work still. You get it to work right when you got a cheapskate boss, LOL.As for that chuck of yours, that ain't nothing compared to what I dug out of the one at my job, LOL. You would freak out real bad if you seen it, LOL. Awesome vid but figure out a way to grease those shaft bearings. They won't last.
While there are many things I would do different, I never made a spindle and you have. So kudos to you :) Are your bearing adjustment screws pushing directly against the bearing race? If so I would add an extra ring to spread the load. If you have a torque wrench, use it to get the same load on all bearing adjustment screws. And maybe locktide those screws inplace.
Use a power window motor & gear box from a car, forward n reverse all ready set up. That will get direction changes, maybe adding a DC potentiometer might get your speed for driving the "carriage " . Build or buy a four step pulley system, like a inch steps for both the motor n head stock. Multiple speeds there. Example 1725 motor speed 3-8 646 spindle 3-6 862.5 4-5 1380 5-4 2156. Changing the belt fast n easy. Build your steps as you desire , maybe a 2-12 for 287.5 rpm . As a boy we made a wood lathe with a 2" to a three step on a separate shaft to three step on the lath it self. Yes was a bit of work , the center block that held the second shaft was movable quick easy adjustments. Gave us many speeds.
I would like to see you install some sort of seals on those taper bearings so chips can't get in them. You saw that there were chips inside the chuck so you can imagine them getting in the bearings and thrashing them. You did an awesome build and I like how you did it with scrap iron from a junk yard.
Awesome build,a consideration you could make is to dowel your bearing housings rather than to allow only on the bearing bolts not coming loose while turning. Fantastic effort you have made for sure.
You could use a variomatic instead of gears. The discs are supercheap, like 15 bucks, and this would also give you more torque at lower speed... Or you could turn them yourself.
Needs a case and paint. But otherwise it's really impressive, especially when you used the auto feed last video. The finish was excellent for any lathe let alone a home made one. A case over the back and head stock etc would really finish it off and protect the bearings etc.
I have seen this done with car steering shaft installs. Get the hub where it needs to be then use a drill bit or something that will fit through the set screw holes and put marks on the shaft that you can drill dimples approx 1/4 inch into the shaft so that way the set screws have something to grab onto. Hope this idea helps and this is a great build.
If you drilled small detents in the shaft where the hub screws contact it, then you wouldn't have to tighten down the screws on the hub so much since they would now have divots to catch on in the shaft/spindle/Arbor (whatever we're referring to it as). That way you could tighten down the rest of the hub screws for clamping down the bearing assembly and not have to worry about the hub sliding out of place or being cranked down too tightly... hopefully that explanation makes sense... awesome video and great job on the lathe in general btw! Impressive
Cast iron is used in machine beds because it is strong, and doesn't have the thermal expansion of steel. It doesn't bend or warp much, and dissipates the vibrations, not because of the ping it makes. Not sure who said that, but it was worth a good laugh... Nice machine BTW, need to protect the head stock and the cross slides. The chatter is coming from the bed, it isn't ground even. A millimess will show you that it's not straight probably to 0.1mm.
You can do with out bearings to get a precise result, just make a hole at the top to put oil and a small diagonal grove on the spindle to distribute the oil, but not right through .
I would leave the chuck dry after cleaning it because that way filings wouldn't stick to the inside and build up. On industrial lathes in the factory would be running 16 house a day for two shifts.I never had a problem after that cleaning dry wax can help for tight units
since you turned your own spindle anyway, if you ever upgrade again you might try leaving the middle of the spindle a larger diameter than the ID of the bearings. then you can get them as tight as you want by tightening those diamond shaped peices of plate that hold the bearing races. your build has been great.
1. Pack those wheel bearings with grease. 2. Install a flange to cover the bearings and keep chips out of them. 3. Use a drift to wedge the spindle hub against the bearing races. Those aluminum threads aren’t going to last long! AND PLEASE GREASE THOSE NEW BEARINGS IF YOU DONT DO ANYTHING ELSE!
A lot of people are mentioning how those bearings need grease, and that's true, but they also need axial preload, that is, they need to be tightened down along the axis to ensure the rollers fully engage in the taper of the race.
good work bro. I think if you sit down and put key way on the pulley and cut threads on the spindle end put on a lock nut .Good to go and locks sideways movement.
Would have been cool if you threaded the back end of the spindle and made a matching threaded 'nut' to screw onto it. This would replace the need for your 16 bolt pully attachment for keeping the bearings pushed together. This is generally what non-home made lathes have for this purpose.
the way we would put bearings on 100 - 200 hp motors would be to heat the bearing in an oven (not real hot though) and then they would just slide right on. No whacking lol!
The recess that you're brushing chips out of at 3:23 can be used to index your chuck onto the mounting plate...doing this will minimize the run-out of the chuck. Just turn a mirror image of the back of your chuck onto the mounting plate, locate and drill the mounting holes and you're done.
When I converted an old atlas 10 to tapered rollers i used 2 inch dom tube so Id have a larger thew hole. Welded on a face plate installed and trued up the plate on the lathe. Also had to bore the headstock for the bigger bearings.
That's why you need to put way scrapers on there because every time you go back and forth the little hard piece of neoprene or whatever they make that material out of nylon or whatever material they use might be Teflon it cleans the laid off every time you go back and forth you put one on the front the back the side to side access and it keeps your machine clean
Loving the music playing around 4 minutes. Epic, calm. Sometimes the epicness is a bit too much for these types of videos, but it's good music. Edit: Song name, Black Radiance -- by FormantX -- Album: Let Them Look
Amazing performance with so much just hand/eye coordination! All the grinding and especially the slots is something I would never attempt. On the other hand, besides truing the chuck, I was expecting you would have applied a longer piece of round steel to the chuck and the magnetic base dial indicator on the cross slide/carriage. Then sweep lengthwise the side as well as the top of the rod. Or was it possibly in the tailstock section that I have not watched yet? Another that surprised me was the failure of the 3 HP motor. I was thinking all along that the lack of torque was odd. In fact, I thought the controller had a low current limit programmed to keep the treadmill acceleration and deceleration safe. The flywheel served the same purpose. Anyway, I would still think a DC motor and a quite low cost control would be ideal for adjustable speed.
As a machinist there is so many things about this build i cringe at, so it is really impressive this works at all, let alone as well as it does. Also I definitely don't have time or patience for a machine build of this scale so its been interesting watch it all come together.
If you want to cut the vibrations down, pour a concrete base to bolt the lathe to. Filling the voids in the headstock with concrete will help a lot too.
And definitely add oilers to the bearings.
Leaving those bearings open so chips get into them is a bad idea. You need some oil seals on them. Chips, dust, dirt etc can get in there in NO Time. I have a question. Why did you use a solid shaft instead of a hollow shaft you could pass through for longer items?
You can probably reduce your run out on that chuck by turning the mounting surface behind it again. You turned it then took it apart to make your adapter, put it back together without checking that surface again. Also you can take the chuck off, rotate it to the next set of mounting holes and try it again. That tiny amount can make it better or worse but you won't know until you try it.
I highly recommend some sort of oil seal to keep debris out of the bearings and to keep the grease in them.
I would have liked to see you test the run out of that metal piece you turned. It looked very good. Also you can grab that piece once turned and wiggle it up and down and side to side to see what kind of wobble you have in the bearings with the dial indicate on it.
I really like this home made lathe. I wish I had one :-) Keep up the great work. Cheers !
The lathe looks awesome! This is the first video I've seen of it(new subsciber). I hate to reiterate what everyone else said but I agree, those bearings need grease. They may not get as much wear as they would inside an axle but they will get worn out pretty fast. I'm not sure how an oiler system works but maybe drilling the bearing housing so you could use a Zirc fitting or something.
Great job champion! Enjoyed watching this and good to see a young guy having a go! 👍
You'll kill those bearings in no time running them dry. They're meant to be packed with grease. Grease seals on both sides would be advisable to keep the grease from being flung out and to keep chips out of the bearings. To vary the spindle speed, stepped drive pulleys are the simple way. Variable speed is nice but you can usually get close enough to the ideal surface cutting speed with a pair of stepped pulleys.
or just a felt trash seal on other side, with an oiler on a drip tube to oil them.
I guess i didn't show it in the video but I did pack them with grease, thanks.
Butch S. B
@@ratherBweldingChris still needs seals
wouldnt sealed roller bearings be a better alternative. of course the tapered bearing can take out the slack as well as being cheap but definitely the idea of them not sustaining sufficient lubrication seems pretty legitimate.@@mrgreenswelding2853
Good job. Yeah. Other than the bearings not being lubricated I still give you an A plus. You made something i would have never attempted to do myself. Smart kid. Love your builds man. Keep up the great work. Im a new fan of your channel & seen the entire lathe build. Love it.
To take some scrap steel & turn it into a useable tool worth a lot of money to buy even a used 1 is awesome.
I generally build stuff i need for tools, just nothing as complicated as a lathe. I never imagined of building one either but you gave me motivation to maybe build 1 myself. Especially after seeing how much better you made it every time you did an important to it. And seeing how exactly you made some of the parts. I used 1 as a kid in school and loved making things with it. Maybe when I get my new shop setup i will try to build 1 myself. You get a pat on the back from me. Keep up the good work & awesome builds. Cheers for your future as a true machinist
Wow, man you are awesome!....didn't realize that young people still had such skills and determination!
One to create another even better. That is how we have soooo many fine things to work with now. Well done fella. You must remember that only one bearing is needed to hold a shaft. All in all a great build fella ! Regular greasing is a must as well to pressure the stuff out of the chuck. Steel for tat tail end hub will give you less grief in the long run as well. Indicate the chuck alignment plate. That is most likely where your runout is but at the same time, a 10 $ chuck is not a 700 $ unit. Always tighten at least 2 chuck screws too. That will help a lot and NEVER run a dry bearing bud. LOL, time will get ya all dialed in fella. Great build ! Yer noggin is doing great fella !
Always take apart new Chinese made chucks and clean before use. They are normally full of casting grit and junk. Grease those new bearings! They'll burn up in no time with no lube.
Tater79bj exactly what I was going to say. Thank you, I'm glad to not be the only one thinking clearly.
i was about to post this exact same thing grease those wheel bearings or it wont last 2 weeks
The bearings are a oil bath bearing. Greasing them wont do anything other then fling grease on the wall.
MotorHead Garage they are NOT oil bath bearigs
No you would oil the bearings they are turning too fast
Fantastic dude. Love your lathe series! You could add stepper motors to that bad boy and add some cnc capability!
amazing job i'm proud of you making your own lathe ! that takes skill
Congrats, seems like it's running alot more better for you and you are getting more experience too!
Oh Hell Yea!! Good work man! I like this series, you have an engineering mind. I agree and liked other's comments about those bearings needing lubrication AND seals to keep grease in and keep grime/dirt out. You're two speed transmission for go-karts, or a version of that design might work with changing speeds on your lathe.....just a thought.
Keep up the cool ideas, I'm a long time fan from your beginning.
Very impressive. I was surprised by your choice of bearings but cheap and readily available is a great advantage.
Always check run out off a piece of drill rod in the jaws. The body of the Chuck isn't as important as what's in the jaws.
RBW bubby i'm proud of you for doing this for yourself im sure you will improve it in time but you have to start somewhere and you got a big jump on this when you built it. glad to know of you.
Very impressive young man.... Nice work...... your dad should be proud of you....
bro, your machine is one of the best diy lathe i have ever seen.
Well, as I saw your first video my thoughts were "That ain't gonna work even close to a lathe.."
But you officially stunned me. This project turns out to get better and better ;)
my factory lathe has the same runout on the external chuck.. No worries, you need to dial a precision ground rod in the chuck to see the real runout anyway.. looks damn good to me
good job!, but as others have already stated the bearings you have installed are often installed along with a oil/ grease seal on both ends to keep in lubricant and keep out contaminants so that you can get longer life, reduce heat buildup and friction. Grease will be the best bet for most of the RPM you'll be using, anything over 1500 rpms and a good gear oil is the way to.
As for gearing, go with a large motorcycle transmission, some other DIY lathe guy used one, and you being a gear head, I figured that would be right up your ally.
A beautiful explanation and a great work and important to all levels of turning ... Thank you very much ... A new friend from Sirte Libya
Awesome lathe.You hit the nail on the head when you took the head apart.People use air to clear the teeth and it blows the chips Into the back of the chuck.Eventually it won't clamp down right.(I used to operate CNC lathes and grinders with pneumatic chucks.They'd get filled with chips and Not clamp tight,or true)Higher speed with slower feed equals less squeal.
Dude, as an ASE Master since 78, I have wanted a metal lathe for sometime now. You have a nice sweet setup.
For those tapered wheel bearings, I would suggest a plate with an O-ring around the housing. I know you used the rear drive plate to preload the inner bearing race, as a huge nut, locked in place would be almost impossible. But without a center grease seal, those tapered bearings are going to collect more metal shavings, dirt, dust and anything else in the shop. A flat thin plate with an O-ring groove in it to help seal the back of the chuck. A brake lathe has a convoluted rubber boot over the main shaft.
I will be the first to admit, these will be design challenges but needed. But build yourself or pay 45k for a nice used one. Only one who would give a thumbs down should be told that. It has been said; It ain’t yours unless you build it.
I would never be able to get as far as your lathe is now, but I just want to say, excellent job in your work. I wish a salvage yard would be as generous as yours is.
Liked & subscribed!
Need to find a way to pack Grease in your bearings. auto bearings need it. See if you can find some grease seals for them. It would be sad having to take it back apart in a short time to replace them. Great job and videos. keep them coming.
I'm finishing up a homemade milling machine and have started getting the parts together for my own lathe build. You did an excellent job here, fuck what anyone else says. It's impressive as hell.
Great job... The 2nd lathe I'm building will use concrete for the frame, I have a 3hp treadmill motor, I figured out the speed controller and it is quite simple, it seems to have quite a bit of torque at lower speeds, might add a 2nd pulley to gear it down, I am going to also put a treadmill motor on my small craftsman lathe to test out the tread mill motor, I get these treadmills free off of Craigslist, got about 5. I like your bearing setup, I never thought of it, I was worried about preload on my setup I thought about using a crush sleeve, for my oiling system, I am going to install a controllable drip system. The feed system I thought about using a stepper motor and control it with an aduino, don't know if it will be strong enough or fast enough. I'm playing around with adding an encoder to a lawn mower starter motor, of course I have to cast a housing. Looking at my craftsman lathe all the feed and speed for thread cutting is done thru gears even the reverse. I did print a 3d gear for my small lathe it's going on 3 years, don't know how it would hold up on a big lathe, may I can print the gear then cast it. All work in process, good luck and can't wait for the next video.
Another amazing video! I would like to have such a big workshop as you! :)
Been following the series and man... hats of to you! Superb motivation for the project :) Congrats. Word of advice only: beware with the very week support (only one screw) on the cutting iron at 5:55 minute. It may fly away towards you. On the side of that: congrats for the example you represent for most of us!
Nice upgrade! I would try some cutting oil. Even with carbide. It sounds and cuts a lot nicer on my lathe when I use cutting fluid. Also I would put some oil on the bed of the lathe, it looks dry. Manual on my old lathe is very particular about lubrication, so I always keep everything nice and oiled
Now that you made your leis you continue to improve it better and better and better and getting the tolerances closer and closer you can tell by when you did the aluminum when you were cutting it it's shiny now instead of dull you're doing a great job
The ringing is from the tool bit being hung out to far. Keep the tool as tight to your tool holder as you can always.
Did you pack your bearings or are you running them dry?
Been watching your work for a while now,had to leave a comment..your know nonsense approach to all your builds,is inspiring,and the quality awesome..the CBR600 build your doing now 2019,I'm really looking forward to seeing on the road..would be great if you started a business doing what you do..the possibilities are endless,..anyway, Respect.🙂👍🇬🇧
Dude you're doing way better because it was five or six thousand out before and now you got it down to one one and a half that's great as you keep working on it you're going to get it better and better every time look at that you started Major Lazer and you using all the tools that you made to make it better to constantly improve it great job totally awesome
I know this is old as hell but you can buy a small 4speed 110cc atv engine, then gut the top end. Remove the crank and make a straight shaft with a pully or gear on it then hook your motor through that into the lathe. You would have a 4 speed gearbox with reverse.
Was the best gearbox idea i was able to come up with.
Привет Американский брат! Пишу тебе из далёкой России, я здесь тоже занимаюсь станкостроением:) вроде что-то тоже получается. Хочу тебе пожелать успехов в этом деле, большое спасибо за полезное видео!!!
Dude! This is awesome. Gearing: Grab a 5 speed manual transmission from the junk yard, and a 2 or 3 belt pulleys to increase your number of speeds. 2 belt speeds will give you 10 speeds. I would go for it, and do a 3 step belt pulley for 15 speeds. Put the pulley stack between the bearings. Now put a pulley stack on the end (5 steps) and attach it to the saddle screw. With the right combo you will have auto feed.
Looking at the construction through the series i would now guess that some of the chatter is coming from the slides on the carriage not being tight enough. If it is possible, simple filling and shimming on the edge of the main carriage plate to move the sides in as close as possible to base would help with chatter and accuracy a lot. For a speed control an idea would be to use something like a quad or dirt bike gearbox from a blown engine for a gear drive speed control, after removing the cylinder head and piston, replace the flywheel with a pulley for a motor and then a simple sprocket and chain drive to the lathe spindle would easily handle the power. Being a machinist myself has made it relay interesting to watch the construction of this with limited tools.
Looking good! Why make another aluminum one instead of iron?
Great job your a friggin genius. 😀
Using wheel bearings now you got the right idea.
It is more than a good enough for a homemade lathe! I bet I could use it on professional purposes in cases where high precision is not needed! Looks solid enough! Great work! By the way if you combine steel and concrete (with some additives) in moulds you could get a less vibrating construction but I guess it will take some inventional thinking.
Well done!
I'd have tried to do threading with the old setup before moving on, though.
You can use bikes' gears and chains, if no other is available, to produce something around 14 and 20 tpi by 2 or three inches long at the back side of the new spindle, so that you can preload the bearings properly, and you'd want to use the same setup to make two matching nuts as well.
If you key the spindle between the thread up to almost the rear bearing, then you just need a (key'ed) gear between you (key'ed) pulley and the rear bearing to call it a finished spindle.
About the bearings' housings, and as you've put that much effort on them (don't you have a hacksaw or bandsaw?), I think the simplest would be to make four rings to allocate oil-seal rings for these bearings on both sides (these should cost a dollar each or so, and come exactly for the size of your bearings). Then weld the rings to the front and back side of each of your plates, and bob's your uncle.
Don't fill the housings with more than 1/3 max. of the bearing's diameter and depth in grease.
Unfortunately, and despite what others say below, these bearings will run much slower and hotter in grease than they'd in oil any day, just like pretty much any other bearing.
Oil is always the preferred lubrication method, while grease is used as a substitute in maintenance-free and some other very specific applications.
My two cents!
Hello from Norway. On my lathe I use a motorcycle gearbox. Works perfect. Carl
Rheostat's a dimmer switch which is old school and suck. You are right about not having the torque using one, would just bog down the motor under load if you don't fry it first because they run hot. Now a days equipment uses a digital signal, meaning the full power is pulsed to get the speed. In other words, the full speed would be no pulses in 2 seconds, as half speed would be 2 pulses of full power a half second apart in 2 seconds, to control speed for a motor. You get the torque from the full power pulses.
Those old bearings are still mint. The lathe at my job has at least twice the run out on the chuck and I use it for some precise work still. You get it to work right when you got a cheapskate boss, LOL.As for that chuck of yours, that ain't nothing compared to what I dug out of the one at my job, LOL. You would freak out real bad if you seen it, LOL.
Awesome vid but figure out a way to grease those shaft bearings. They won't last.
While there are many things I would do different, I never made a spindle and you have. So kudos to you :)
Are your bearing adjustment screws pushing directly against the bearing race? If so I would add an extra ring to spread the load.
If you have a torque wrench, use it to get the same load on all bearing adjustment screws. And maybe locktide those screws inplace.
Great Job!!
You can wash greasy steel parts with soap and hot water!! Just drop a few drops of oil on it when you take it out! Then dry!
Use a power window motor & gear box from a car, forward n reverse all ready set up.
That will get direction changes, maybe adding a DC potentiometer might get your speed for driving the "carriage " .
Build or buy a four step pulley system, like a inch steps for both the motor n head stock. Multiple speeds there.
Example
1725 motor speed
3-8 646 spindle
3-6 862.5
4-5 1380
5-4 2156. Changing the belt fast n easy. Build your steps as you desire , maybe a 2-12 for 287.5 rpm .
As a boy we made a wood lathe with a 2" to a three step on a separate shaft to three step on the lath it self.
Yes was a bit of work , the center block that held the second shaft was movable quick easy adjustments.
Gave us many speeds.
I would like to see you install some sort of seals on those taper bearings so chips can't get in them. You saw that there were chips inside the chuck so you can imagine them getting in the bearings and thrashing them. You did an awesome build and I like how you did it with scrap iron from a junk yard.
Awesome build,a consideration you could make is to dowel your bearing housings rather than to allow only on the bearing bolts not coming loose while turning. Fantastic effort you have made for sure.
You could use a variomatic instead of gears.
The discs are supercheap, like 15 bucks, and this would also give you more torque at lower speed...
Or you could turn them yourself.
I am in France and I discovered your work. Fantastic. I would like to build one as well. when will you continue the videos ?
Thanx for the more mature music too.
Needs a case and paint. But otherwise it's really impressive, especially when you used the auto feed last video. The finish was excellent for any lathe let alone a home made one. A case over the back and head stock etc would really finish it off and protect the bearings etc.
You could use one of your gokart CVTs? They're designed to handle that much power/torque, or is the in-out RPM difference too much?
I have seen this done with car steering shaft installs. Get the hub where it needs to be then use a drill bit or something that will fit through the set screw holes and put marks on the shaft that you can drill dimples approx 1/4 inch into the shaft so that way the set screws have something to grab onto. Hope this idea helps and this is a great build.
If you drilled small detents in the shaft where the hub screws contact it, then you wouldn't have to tighten down the screws on the hub so much since they would now have divots to catch on in the shaft/spindle/Arbor (whatever we're referring to it as). That way you could tighten down the rest of the hub screws for clamping down the bearing assembly and not have to worry about the hub sliding out of place or being cranked down too tightly... hopefully that explanation makes sense... awesome video and great job on the lathe in general btw! Impressive
Cast iron is used in machine beds because it is strong, and doesn't have the thermal expansion of steel. It doesn't bend or warp much, and dissipates the vibrations, not because of the ping it makes. Not sure who said that, but it was worth a good laugh... Nice machine BTW, need to protect the head stock and the cross slides. The chatter is coming from the bed, it isn't ground even. A millimess will show you that it's not straight probably to 0.1mm.
I should put grease on those bearings that are on the shaft
You're a very impressive young man, MIT should give you a full scholarship, instead, they choose people like "clock boy".
Obama and Clock Boy, what a pair.
You can do with out bearings to get a precise result, just make a hole at the top to put oil and a small diagonal grove on the spindle to distribute the oil, but not right through .
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Hat off to you Sir!!!
Nice job! Make sure and drip some lube oil into those Timken bearings.
I would leave the chuck dry after cleaning it because that way filings wouldn't stick to the inside and build up. On industrial lathes in the factory would be running 16 house a day for two shifts.I never had a problem after that cleaning dry wax can help for tight units
So cool 👍👍👍👍
To avoid re-engineering you could install the metallic seals ftom SKF called Nilos, they will keep grease in place. VERY NICE JOB!
since you turned your own spindle anyway, if you ever upgrade again you might try leaving the middle of the spindle a larger diameter than the ID of the bearings. then you can get them as tight as you want by tightening those diamond shaped peices of plate that hold the bearing races.
your build has been great.
Do you think it would have been a good idea to pack the bearings with grease first since there is no grease fittings
1. Pack those wheel bearings with grease.
2. Install a flange to cover the bearings and keep chips out of them.
3. Use a drift to wedge the spindle hub against the bearing races. Those aluminum threads aren’t going to last long!
AND PLEASE GREASE THOSE NEW BEARINGS IF YOU DONT DO ANYTHING ELSE!
станочек получился супер ставлю класс!!!!!! уважуха тебе
A lot of people are mentioning how those bearings need grease, and that's true, but they also need axial preload, that is, they need to be tightened down along the axis to ensure the rollers fully engage in the taper of the race.
Bravo......get job done.....gjd.....note ....my lathe I have hole through shaft and has help me......cheers
Parabéns ficou show 👏👏👏👏👏
good work bro.
I think if you sit down and put key way on the pulley and cut threads on the spindle end put on a lock nut .Good to go and locks sideways movement.
would you consider using a VFD (Variable Frequency Drive) for your AC motor to control your lathe speed?
Actually yah thatd be an easy way too...
Would have been cool if you threaded the back end of the spindle and made a matching threaded 'nut' to screw onto it. This would replace the need for your 16 bolt pully attachment for keeping the bearings pushed together. This is generally what non-home made lathes have for this purpose.
Alignment of chuck is great. But you have to Align test bar clamp by chuck. Unless you want to regrind the chuck jaws after this to reduce vibration.
nice work i like your build , carefull cover your motor fan
Long awaited update!
the way we would put bearings on 100 - 200 hp motors would be to heat the bearing in an oven (not real hot though) and then they would just slide right on. No whacking lol!
The recess that you're brushing chips out of at 3:23 can be used to index your chuck onto the mounting plate...doing this will minimize the run-out of the chuck.
Just turn a mirror image of the back of your chuck onto the mounting plate, locate and drill the mounting holes and you're done.
Guess I should've watched a little more before commenting....lol
Merci des info vraiment apprécié!
Ohhhhh, the man who sad this with the cast iron... Thanks.... :D
My lay opinion is that the workpiece needs cutting fluid, and the ways of the knife holder need grease. Congratulations on your progress so far.
Looks awesome, what about gussets in the headstock to support the bearings.
very cool....but i wonder if isnt better to screw that bearing thight with a ring screw.. but its awesome! greetings from brazil!
When I converted an old atlas 10 to tapered rollers i used 2 inch dom tube so Id have a larger thew hole. Welded on a face plate installed and trued up the plate on the lathe. Also had to bore the headstock for the bigger bearings.
Might be a good idea to put a little high temp grease in those bearings
READ Could u use the dirt bike motor transmission u took off mini motorcycle to control speed of Lathe
Самый классный самодельный токарный станок который я видел
Im really enjoyed this machine video
That's why you need to put way scrapers on there because every time you go back and forth the little hard piece of neoprene or whatever they make that material out of nylon or whatever material they use might be Teflon it cleans the laid off every time you go back and forth you put one on the front the back the side to side access and it keeps your machine clean
Loving the music playing around 4 minutes. Epic, calm. Sometimes the epicness is a bit too much for these types of videos, but it's good music.
Edit: Song name, Black Radiance -- by FormantX -- Album: Let Them Look
Amazing performance with so much just hand/eye coordination! All the grinding and especially the slots is something I would never attempt.
On the other hand, besides truing the chuck, I was expecting you would have applied a longer piece of round steel to the chuck and the magnetic base dial indicator on the cross slide/carriage. Then sweep lengthwise the side as well as the top of the rod. Or was it possibly in the tailstock section that I have not watched yet?
Another that surprised me was the failure of the 3 HP motor. I was thinking all along that the lack of torque was odd. In fact, I thought the controller had a low current limit programmed to keep the treadmill acceleration and deceleration safe. The flywheel served the same purpose. Anyway, I would still think a DC motor and a quite low cost control would be ideal for adjustable speed.
Not bad, but how did you go about sorting out the lubrication for the new tapered roller bearings?
You can use double raw tapper bearing too
As a machinist there is so many things about this build i cringe at, so it is really impressive this works at all, let alone as well as it does. Also I definitely don't have time or patience for a machine build of this scale so its been interesting watch it all come together.
outstanding!