How To Replace Hydroboost in 2005-07 Escalade Tahoe Suburban Yukon
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- čas přidán 20. 11. 2022
- I'm pretty sure many of our Chevy and GM vehicles have the hydroboost system. This is a quick video on the basic to replace it, taking no shortcuts.
#Hydroboost #GM #GeneralMotors #EscaladeHydroBoost #LeakRepair #Replacement
I did this to my 04 tahoe. But I removed the front windshield and hood from the vehicle and side door and front seat. Made the job much easier. Thanks!
This is easily the best video out there on a hydro boost replacement!
Thank you! I see repair videos all the time, and I kinda have an idea of what I like to see. I wanna know WHY things have to be removed, and I want the camera on the repair, not on the guy's face most of the video. I think so many content creators wanna ve on camera and they lose sight of the purpose of the video: to.show how it's done so it's easier for someone doing it the first time.
Appreciate you watching, brotha!!!
@@MicDropBBQ yeah you broke it down to simplify the job. I’m still trying to remove the right side nuts from the inside. Well the bottom one. That one is a pain. But so far it isn’t terrible.
Great explanation. Kept it short, easy and understandable.
💯 indeed! I do my best to focus on the repair and not a lot of unnecessary chatter about it. We just wanna get it done! It's bad enough that we gotta do the work, only to find videos that end up being longer than the repair. 😂🤣😂
Great video on the hydroboost… very clear and to the point thank you
Appreciate you watching, brotha!
Thanks for making this video your video is the only one that clearly explains every step and shows it other than one other that found that was three times as long and crappy video thanks again
Appreciate ya, Bobby! I try, brotha. I do videos as if I'm explaining to someone that's never done the job before. Many times, I tell the viewer this is my FIRST TIME doing it, as well. This way, we both learn together.
I've replaced hydroboosts on Suburbans before, so my truck was setup the same. Not much difference, so the walk-thru was a lot easier than doing it brand new.
Glad ya like the video. All of my videos are kinda like this: aim the camera at the part and not at myself, then start the process of explaining. I don't really unscrew many bolts on the video because I assume most of us already know how to get a bolt off. LOL! Waste of time to record it most of the time.
Great tips througout video...thanks for posting and the editing. !!!
Welcome, my man Bobby! I do what I can to make sure I get all angles so folks can see how easy or how difficult something might be. Always keeping these videos focused on the repair itself! People be wanting to get the job done, and some videos be going into too much convo and not enough repair! LOL!
Thanks for the video, very helpful! Just a few days ago mine started leaking like crazy, no warning just nice big 12" spots on the driveway. I tackled the job with an OEM to avoid any rebuild kit issues. My OEM hydroboost did not have new o-rings for the hoses so I had ordered a lifetime supply of 0-rings HNBR assortment for 10 bucks. I found the brake switch clip wasn't too bad, I used a small flat blade 1/4 tip screwdriver about 6" long, has that tip about 1/8 wide, I wedged it into the clip gap twisted and it made pulling off a breeze. The bolt up high behind the brake lever, that was my challenge. It takes patience and discomfort being on your back trying to get it out. Have someone check your brake switch is working when your done. Check fluids, turn wheel several times, check fluid again, go on a test drive and check for leaks. With your video I did the complete job in just around 2hrs.
Smart play to go with OEM! And I feel you know the 12" spot! I had cat litter and cardboard under the truck til the part arrived. And you're right about checking the brake switch clip. I don't know why it gave me hell. Maybe I had a bad angle on it or I couldn't get my arm position right. Everyone had an easier time except me! 🤣😅😆😅
Glad you flew thru it, my man! Saved yourself a ton of money! 2hrs and working like new!
@@MicDropBBQ I looked up the rate on the job via mitchell1 and it was 2.4hrs, so you figure 350-450 bucks in labor, then the part oem was listing for 552.96 and I got it for about 385 from a seller on amzn. Major savings! I took photos before I took it off the switch and clip from both directions in case I got confused. My advice on the post of the brake arm and the switch on reassembly- get the yoke and post on the brake switch just on where the post and yoke are just on the initial width of the yoke, not too far into the post yet. Then get the switch, the open side on the inner slides down on the post, yoke in the center of the switch, then holding the switch feeling the closed hole and wiggling the brake arm, feeling that post come through slowly bring it over to the base of the post and it will all line up. You want to keep working it until you get it fully over for the clip. The clip to press in place took me a few efforts to figure out which way could I get it to press down and slide and lock.
Yup! LOL! Sometimes, it takes a few tries to get it in place! Once it snaps, you're like DAMN!! FINALLY! And that's exactly what I wen thru, brotha! hahahaha! You literally took a $1,000 job and did it yourself. You know they were gonna hit you for a good chunk, but these trucks are only worth like $3k-$4k by now, so that's like a THIRD of the damn value all in one repair! I'd rather do it myself. It's not gonna raise the value of the vehile, so paying $1k to a shop is tossing away money. You did it the smart way, brotha! Congrats on that!!
@@MicDropBBQ Just a good reminder even when these repairs come up, it's not even one car payment on these new 50k+ versions! I'm at 115k miles, I hope I have at least 200k before she dies on me!
@@ricklord8940 Brotha, I'm at 224k miles on mine. You're doing fine. I pulled my transmission in my garage at 160k miles and installed a new sunshell with an upgraded Monster sunshell. The sunshell is a common part that will fail. It's the basket where all of the clutch plates fit into. Literally an inexpensive part with gears on the backend that gets shaved down. You'll have a little slippage from 1st to 2nd gear, an that's your sign the teeth are rounding out.
Once the teeth are completely smooth, you'll not be able to get to any gear. It will just rev and go nowhere...not even reverse. Luckily, I was towing a trailer and mine died on the way home. I was stuck in 3rd gear so that helped me a lot. Got home and went on vacation.
Came back, drained the transmission and pulled it. Started inspecting and I heard a pinging sound when I was spinning the clutches by hand. Damn sunshell had no gears. Common failure. Replaced it at 160k miles.
Been towing trailers all over America, thru the Rockies and the Blue Ridge Mountains with motorcycles in the trailer. Transmission is solid as hell with the Monster sunshell!
Easy job, if your transmission ever goes out. Common failure, so don't panic. Just replace it. I used a floor jack and a transmission jack on a damn sloped driveway! LOL! Did it the hard way! LOL!
You'll get at least 350k out of the engine and the trans will go before the engine will. Just rebuild it in your garage and you're good to go. The 4L60E is a beast!
Super helpful 👍 thanks for the great video man!!
All good, brotha! Hopefully you saved a little money by replacing it yourself. Love these trucks and I'll never get rid of mine! Replacing parts is a lot cheaper than a $50k truck to replace my Vortec engine and 4L60E transmission that I rebuilt myself. These GM engines have a few work out gaskets and seals from time to time, but you can't beat the reliability and power. 224k miles. Bought it with 81k in 2011. Rebuilt my transmission at 160k and runs like a beast!!!
Very good detailed tips, You should be a teacher. Thanks again.
Thank you 🙏 I do my best to break it all down because we're all here to save money by doing the repair ourselves. Easy when you got the patience and tools to cruise thru the job.
Fantastic job and video!
Thanks, Isaac! Hopefully, these little videos I drop help people save money. It's a process, but it takes a little patience if someone has the time. Appreciate you.checking it out, and leaving a comment for me, brotha!
Just replaced my cruise control switch and found my unit leaking. Great tutorial, looks like I'm making plans for next weekend.
Thanks brotha!! The hardest part will be that clip behind the brake. It's a "slide" clip more than all a pull-clip. Once it's slid about a quarter inch, you can literally side it off and free that brake booster post. You'll feel it as your moving it around. It's a simple slide, so don't bend.or yank it out of frustration. It's easy, and it has to be slid in a certain direction, that's all.
Other than that, it was just time consuming for laying in the floorboard. Hahaha! Good luck, my man! Hopefully, I'm online if you get stuck and have questions.
@@MicDropBBQ Oh, that clip was easy. Had to remove it to put a new cruise brake switch in, then found the Hydroboost unit leaking and being the root cause of the switch failure as P/S fluid got into it and made it fail. That bolt on the firewall you showed the deepwell with wobbly and extension. That one has me a little nervous being the truck is at 225k miles. But giving it a good look initially, then watching your video, I'm going to go for it and do it myself. My other car is a Scion FRS and I've been under the dash once or twice with that one. This chevy has miles of room under it to work compared to that, so at least that gives me a little solace, LOL.
@@jeepmor Same here, brotha! I've got about 224k on mine right now! It's about time for seals to give up and just install new parts. Glad you got that clip out easy tho. I was like, "...Jesus? What factory put this damn thing on??" LOL! I was about to make a call to the plant and give em an inspection number to put that mfka on the PHONE WITH ME! LOL!
If you've got the FRS dash, you know how compact the spaces can be. You probably flew with the Chevy! hahahaha!
You'll jam. I think I did well with those 4 bolts under the dash, but it took me a while to keep adjusting my body. Laying under there was killing me, man!!! I had to get a fuzzy tarp to lay on because the concrete was tearing my knees up.
Pace yourself and you'll be fine, brotha!
Thanks for your help ! Good job on the video
All good, Joe!! Glad ya found the video. I try, brotha!!
Good stuff Brother, Thanks Super Helpful!!!😊
Glad ya taking a chance at it! Not a very hard repair at all. Just a little time consuming, but as long as you pace yourself and don't get frustrated, it'll fly by and you'll be on the road with a ton of savings in your pocket!
Hey Sir a big thank you! My wife’s 2005 Chevy suburban 4x4 was leaking at the same place. I was able to replace it following your video. Great video and thank you
Very welcome, my brotha!!! We love our Chevy trucks (or GM, same model). Never get rid of it. Just replace the part and it's like a new truck all overall again!!
Glad it went smooth for ya!! Feels good to not see that pool of fluid in my driveway!!! Hahahha
@@MicDropBBQ quick question sir afterwards I drove the suburban it ran fine for a few minutes. Then the brake pedal was hard and the brakes locked up.
@@MicDropBBQ I backed off those two 16mm bolts that have the bracket on them and then the brakes are fine.
@@MicDropBBQ that bracket is on the outside but if it was on the inside it would give the gap that relieved the brakes and released them
@@Reivax45 That would create a space, yes, but that's on the wrong side. Look at any new one online, anywhere. Your pushrod doesn't fit the new piece you bought with the master cylinder that you kept on the truck. That is your issue.
To put the bracket on the wrong side is not THE solution, but it will be a bandaid until you get the proper pushrod.
Bro, you are a life saver thank you!
All good, brotha! Very welcome, Donnie. When you finish the installation, test drive it around the block a few times. Some are saying the internal pushrods on the replacement may not be the same length as the one you pulled off. You may have to swap the push rods out with the old one so the brakes won't lock up.
What happens is the slightly longer pushrod makes the master cylinder think you're still pushing the pedal a little. I think I pinned a comment on this video about it.
Good to know and thank you for looking out!
Your car engine looks spackling clean!
I keep these engines clean! I be on it! Hahaha
Good instructions! Thanks
You're very welcome! Getting that clip off is a little testy, but have a little patience and you'll fly right through it.
@@MicDropBBQ oh I got off no problem
Putting it back on was harder lol
But my biggest issue was I didn’t transfer over the spring so I did the entire job and then realize I had no brakes and that I didn’t transfer the springs over had to take everything apart do it again .. put the spring in and Get done with everything start the truck I have brakes for like two seconds lol
And then I start hearing a weird noise and the brakes are not depressing right I can hear the air
Sounds like it’s coming form under my truck so I get out and look and j blew a steel brake line right under the driver door 🤦🏻♀️
Great video bro 👍 🙏💪
Thanks Tonio! Hope it saves ya a little money on labor! I went with a remanufactured, and no leaks! I had 224k on the stock one, so hopefully that's the last time I'll need to do it.
Aye nice video i need to replace mine. I got a quote at a auto shop for over 1000$ i was like nah 😂ima fix it myself 😂 especially when the part only 200 bucks
Yup! Save that $800 because it's not a difficult repair at all. Just takes some moving around from the engine to the cabin. Simple stuff! Hope you got a few tools laying around because you can fly thru this repair!
@UberJeepAZ I am, 800$ is crazy lol and plus you made it look Hella easy 😅
@@marioking983 I'm just real patient, brotha! I don't mind working on a car. Some people get frustrated, but it's like a puzzle to me. Some folks be putting puzzles together on their kitchen table and it be taking a MONTH! I'm from that era. LOL! So, if my grandma can take a MONTH to put a damn puzzle together, I can take a couple of hours to work on my car! LOL! That's how I view it.
I can't let grandma win, man. Nah. I ain't going out like that. LOL!
Lol same i learned everything about fixing cars on CZcams lol. and i like to get my hands dirty lol the only thing i never did was take apart an engine, lol i wanna try one day cuz i need to fix this lifter tick i got on my 05 Yukon lol and since i have it apart upgrade the cams @@MicDropBBQ
Would a 2004 Chevy suburban Z71 has same configuration as 2005 above ?
I bet it would. I have the Vortec 6.0 and I bet you've got the 5.3 or the 5.7. All the same setups, basically. Not 100%, but close enough.
Would a bad booster make the rear break’s lock up because I’ve changed the master cylinder and it still do it and if I release the back break line on my master cylinder then it release the back break’s as soon as I open the rear break line just a little bit so I’m wondering if it would be the booster
There's a small rod inside the master cylinder that hits the brake booster. THAT rod could be too long based on the parts you just bought. Not all parts are the same. Even an 8th to a quarter of an inch could be enough to keep that rod pressing on the inside of the master cylinder. There are two solutions for that: 1) buy a rod that's a hair shorter so it's not pressing against the master cylinder, or 2) Get an angle grinder and round-off about an 8th of the aluminum to where it can seat itself without touching.
I'm not recommending either option, but those are two options I know about. Your choice based on what you wanna do.
I need help someone help me i have one that looks like tht but I don't want to get the wrong one how can I really not witch one to get
The issue is usually the pushrod. Keep your old pushrod in case the new one seems too long. You can always take the new pushrod out and measure it against the old one. That's the only issue, really. If the pushrod is too long, it will not allow the master cylinder to release all the way and it cam lock your brakes up. Easy solution: use washers to give the bolts on the master cylinder a little cushion. Just need maybe an 8th of extra space if it happens.
Hey when the Hydro booster on a 05 Cadi Escalade truck is bad. Does it make a humming sound when you step on the brake pedal as well as turn your steering wheel? Should I replace the power steering pump or is it the Hydro booster?
The humming is the pump, but check the fluid level to make sure air isn't in the reservoir. If you see a lot of foamy bubbles in there, you may need to top it off.
The steering gearbox also may be the culprit if you're having issues with turning. Check first leaks!! A little hummjng sound isn't too bad, but if it's really loud, that's a sign that one of the components is causing the pump to possibly work harder.
The pump is the last think I would check. Could be the pump, but check the other components for leaks, first.
@@MicDropBBQ yes, I checked the reservoir. It is full of bubbles when I step on the break and turn the wheel at hums I constantly have to refill it with power steering fluid up. What are signs of the steering box bad with that caused that issue or is it the Hydro booster?
Also, the previous owner had the power steering pump changed already so I am torn between steering box. Or Hydro booster.
Having the same issue with my 05 Tahoe.. Before I replace I have a question tho.. Did you use regular power steering fluid to replace lost fluids? Had a mechanic tell me these hydroboosters take dexcon IV fluid in the power steering reservoir..??? I don’t trust that information lol..
I used regular power steering fluid. LOL! This dude is talking about transmission fluid in the power steering reservoir? I dont know if that will work or not, but power steering fluid works fine.
And when you replace, many are saying the newer kits have a longer pushrod. With a longer pushrod, it will compress the master cylinder and lock up your brakes. Make sure you size them both up to make sure the new one isn't longer.
If it is, you can always shave it down a bit with an angle grinder. I asked someone about it, and that's what he did with his. Said it was like an 8th of an inch longer, so he just ground that much off the new pushrod and installed it.
I just spent 200 on rear suspension and spent 100$ on installation. I'm not uber lyft driver of the world if I dont do my own maintenance to save overall money . My prius just hit 260k miles and I've already replaced the whole engine for 3k $ already . Ride till wheels fall off / ride till I die .. slow day today made 250$ in9 hours. No ride on uber all lyft today.
260k miles is nice!! I've got two vehicles that are high mileage, and run like new!! The trick is maintaining em! Keep fresh oil and transmission fluid. Never low on coolant. Change spark plugs and serpentine belts when they start cracking.
I also disconnect my battery on the vehicles I don't drive much. Saves em from draining down to 1v. Then you got a problem! Hahaha
Did you have to bleed the lines ?
When I did it, I went so quick that air didn't get down the lines. You can loosen the lines if you want to do a gravity bleed, but you're not really doing much to get air into the lines.
It kinda self-bleeds as you're doing it. I've been driving the truck since, and it 100% fine with installing it how I did. You'll have a million internet mechanics telling you 100 different things, but I'm actually driving the truck after install, so I kinda know. 😆🤣
I love how you'll get all of these "theoretical" answers from people who haven't done it and don't drive it.
I never bled it, but if it makes you feel better to do so, go for it. The power steering system will push fluid thru once the pump gets going.
He ain't telling you that there's a little star type deal that sits in the grooves
WHAT star type deal that sits in WHAT grooves? I mean, if you gon' help out, you gotta be more specific than that. I did the repair and I don't even know what the hell you talking about it. LOL! Man, you gotta be more direct, not ambiguous about it.
Plz show us that some uber lyft drivers can own hyper cars 💪🙏
We just have to learn the basics of maintaining em. Buy tools and learn the machine. Save.a ton!!
Part numbers please
Couldn't tell ya. It's on the truck already. But of you know your year make and model, you should get the right one. That's how I bought mine.
😔
Come on now
I'm not pulling the part off my truck and replacing it just to get the part number off of it! You're outta your mind. Do you know where to see the part number, because I don't. But if it's against the firewall and I gotta pull the part off, why would I do that?
Year make model. That's how you find the part number.