Thank you!!! That was the explanation I was looking for!! The edge of the plane acts as the stop so you don't cut into the shooting board itself!!! Thank You!!
Just watched, and listened to your comments about needing to buy 2 shooting planes for Left and Right hand miters. Check out the "MS158 Langdon Miter Box Co. shoot-board and plane" (Miller's Falls). It has both the angled Left and Right hand cuts set-up on one plane, plus it uses the same technique to get right angle cuts that you used, when you made your table saw miter sled. It's also less than the two L & R shooting planes (buying both) from Lee Valley. Larry
I checked out that miter box shoot and plane…very cool! It would be fun to have one, and I’m going to keep my eye out for one on the used market. Thanks for sharing that! 👍😎
Thanks, I’m so glad to have you part of us and what we’re doing! In a lot of ways, given the projects I have in mind, I feel like we’re just getting started! 👍
Most any plane will work but a low angle plane (especially a heavier size) is designed to make cleaner cuts on end grain, which is the most common kind of grain trimmed with this jig. Hope that helps! 👍
Great shooting board design. Using the complementary sides of the miter guide guarantees that the resulting joint will be "dead-nuts" square. In the woodworking shop, Euclidean geometry RULES! 😎 BTW: I just received my first piece of Epic merch -- an insulated cup. Mine has a stainless steel finish. With the Epic Woodworking logo engraved on it, the cup is really, really nice. I am very glad I ordered it. Thanks!
Thanks Jerry, I like the geometry aspect of the shooting board too 😎 And we’re glad you’re enjoying the mug, they’re nice and meant to last, thank you! 👍
Nicely done Tom. I missed the live viewing (weakly Thurs. night par 3 tournaments) but caught the video after. I’ve used a large and small shooting board for years, but like the flexibility of your miter add-on, plan to add that to mine, I’ll be able to eliminate a dedicated miter shooting board and save space. How about an episode on making bench (saw) hooks? You always have some unique features you’ve incorporated from your experience that I’m sure I could learn from.
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it...and I certainly understand the allure of golf, that’s why we record and post the videos! 👍 Great idea on the bench hook, although I’m not sure mine has any novelties.😎
Hello Tom, great design with the removable miter fence, I need to build one for myself thank you for sharing this shooting board design. I heard about this method when squaring the end of a work piece on a shooting board. I never tried this, I hope I explained it right, what do you think? First set the board at a slight angle, then plane, creating a slight chamfer at one end. Then place the board straight, as you plane watch the chamber until it has been removed, then you will know the board is square. See you Saturday morning for session 4.
Sure Steve, that should work. After you use one a little, I think you’ll find you can feel when you’ve reached the “trued-up” point. I hadn’t used mine in a while, and breaking in the new one live has its challenges 😎. I should have tuned up my planes and practiced a bit before the demo, because I think I would have better shown how it looks and should feel when everything is dialed in. Thanks! 👍
Sometimes you want to miter not with a 45° but along the diagonals of a rectangle. Then a similar triangle jig will allways give the two complentary angles that sum up to 90°. That's the beauty of your solution. I'm not sure whether you mentioned it. Your solution is allways balancing out any blade settings of the plane by using both the left and right side of the shooting board.
Not at all, you can use use the miter plan just like any other plane. It’s basically a large heavy version of a smaller low angle block plane, very sturdy and great for many situations, but it excels for end grain cuts. And the shooting board can be used with any plane that has 90 degree corners side to sole. There again, the low angle is preferable because you are almost always cutting end grain. Thanks for watching! 👍😎
Where did you buy hardwood while In Wilson NC? I live in Clayton Nc nearby and have only been woodworking here for 2 years or so since moving here. thanks
Oh man, you’re testing my memory! I had to do a search to recall the names...the main one was McEwen Lumber in Raleigh (for genuine Mahogany when it was $3/ bd ft), Steve Wall a few times, and various private sawmills in the area for air dried walnut. Haven’t lived there for 24 years so info may be dated...😎 Hope that helps! 👍
Hi Tom, I very much enjoy you videos. Today, I watched in horror when you cut more than an 1/8 “ into 1/2” material for a place to insert the spline … at that moment, it looked like the blade passed directly under your right index finger.. that is what it looked like …. I was concerned , because it looked like your right index was dangerously close to the table saw blade. Please review the video footage and I think you will see what I mean … I was concerned for you safety… I might have just been the camera angle.. I’’m your alright,,, kindest Regards, John Bies, US Army retired, Huntsville Alabama..
Thanks John, I’m really glad to know you enjoy the videos! I’m sorry the way I guided that cut on table saw was distressing to watch. I guess my familiarity with the saw made it look less safe than I felt. Given the groove was quite shallow, 1/8 - 3/32”, into the bottom surface of a 1/2” piece of plywood, I felt no risk to my fingers being on top of the plywood. I can understand how it might look dangerous but I can assure you I was not in danger during that cut. However, I should be more careful about how it can appear and cause concern for the viewer. My primary safety concern with a hidden groove or dado cut, like this one, is with the push hand. It is critical to use a push stick as or be especially aware of the location of the blade as the workpiece clears so that the follow hand, and potentially “push fingers” are not in the path or the exiting sawblade. Thank you again for watching and letting me know how much you enjoy the videos. I will certainly keep your concern in mind when making similar cuts in the future.
@@EpicWoodworking You are a very foolish person. Check your facts before you mouth off. I talked to a person at the Boston TV station that hosted the show you are referring to, and I was informed that other people, and not Tom, wanted to switch from Tommy Mac to another woodworking host.
Tom's grace under pressure is impressive. There's no second takes when filmed live.
Thanks Mike, I try to keep it real...less the usual throwing things across the room 😎
Thank you!!! That was the explanation I was looking for!! The edge of the plane acts as the stop so you don't cut into the shooting board itself!!! Thank You!!
Just watched, and listened to your comments about needing to buy 2 shooting planes for Left and Right hand miters. Check out the "MS158 Langdon Miter Box Co. shoot-board and plane" (Miller's Falls). It has both the angled Left and Right hand cuts set-up on one plane, plus it uses the same technique to get right angle cuts that you used, when you made your table saw miter sled. It's also less than the two L & R shooting planes (buying both) from Lee Valley.
Larry
I checked out that miter box shoot and plane…very cool! It would be fun to have one, and I’m going to keep my eye out for one on the used market. Thanks for sharing that! 👍😎
Appreciate your knowledge tom. You and rob cosman are my go to for all my learning and skill sharpening.
Thanks, I’m so glad to have you part of us and what we’re doing! In a lot of ways, given the projects I have in mind, I feel like we’re just getting started! 👍
@@EpicWoodworking looking forward to following along.
Hi. Very well presented. Would you please tell me what kind of a plain I should get.
Most any plane will work but a low angle plane (especially a heavier size) is designed to make cleaner cuts on end grain, which is the most common kind of grain trimmed with this jig.
Hope that helps! 👍
Great shooting board design. Using the complementary sides of the miter guide guarantees that the resulting joint will be "dead-nuts" square. In the woodworking shop, Euclidean geometry RULES! 😎
BTW: I just received my first piece of Epic merch -- an insulated cup. Mine has a stainless steel finish. With the Epic Woodworking logo engraved on it, the cup is really, really nice. I am very glad I ordered it.
Thanks!
Thanks Jerry, I like the geometry aspect of the shooting board too 😎 And we’re glad you’re enjoying the mug, they’re nice and meant to last, thank you! 👍
Nicely done Tom. I missed the live viewing (weakly Thurs. night par 3 tournaments) but caught the video after. I’ve used a large and small shooting board for years, but like the flexibility of your miter add-on, plan to add that to mine, I’ll be able to eliminate a dedicated miter shooting board and save space. How about an episode on making bench (saw) hooks? You always have some unique features you’ve incorporated from your experience that I’m sure I could learn from.
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it...and I certainly understand the allure of golf, that’s why we record and post the videos! 👍
Great idea on the bench hook, although I’m not sure mine has any novelties.😎
Hey Tom, I used to watch a guy on PBS on Saturdays or Sundays, is that you?
Excellent
Hello Tom, great design with the removable miter fence, I need to build one for myself thank you for sharing this shooting board design.
I heard about this method when squaring the end of a work piece on a shooting board. I never tried this, I hope I explained it right, what do you think?
First set the board at a slight angle, then plane, creating a slight chamfer at one end. Then place the board straight, as you plane watch the chamber until it has been removed, then you will know the board is square.
See you Saturday morning for session 4.
Sure Steve, that should work. After you use one a little, I think you’ll find you can feel when you’ve reached the “trued-up” point. I hadn’t used mine in a while, and breaking in the new one live has its challenges 😎. I should have tuned up my planes and practiced a bit before the demo, because I think I would have better shown how it looks and should feel when everything is dialed in. Thanks! 👍
Sometimes you want to miter not with a 45° but along the diagonals of a rectangle. Then a similar triangle jig will allways give the two complentary angles that sum up to 90°. That's the beauty of your solution.
I'm not sure whether you mentioned it. Your solution is allways balancing out any blade settings of the plane by using both the left and right side of the shooting board.
Thank you, I’m glad you enjoyed it! I thought I mentioned the self-correcting nature of the jig but if not, you just did 😎 Thanks again!
So you have to specifically use the mitre plane with the shooting board?
Not at all, you can use use the miter plan just like any other plane. It’s basically a large heavy version of a smaller low angle block plane, very sturdy and great for many situations, but it excels for end grain cuts. And the shooting board can be used with any plane that has 90 degree corners side to sole. There again, the low angle is preferable because you are almost always cutting end grain. Thanks for watching! 👍😎
I need to make one of these!
They do come in handy and offer incredible control and precision when everything is sharp and true! 👍😎
Where did you buy hardwood while In Wilson NC? I live in Clayton Nc nearby and have only been woodworking here for 2 years or so since moving here. thanks
Oh man, you’re testing my memory! I had to do a search to recall the names...the main one was McEwen Lumber in Raleigh (for genuine Mahogany when it was $3/ bd ft), Steve Wall a few times, and various private sawmills in the area for air dried walnut. Haven’t lived there for 24 years so info may be dated...😎
Hope that helps! 👍
@@EpicWoodworking oh wow, I didn’t realize it was that long ago. thanks for that info. I will see if any of them are still around
What is the plane your using
It’s called a miter plane, and this one is from Lie Nielsen. Not the prettiest planes but nice for shooting boards! 😎👍
Hi Tom, I very much enjoy you videos. Today, I watched in horror when you cut more than an 1/8 “ into 1/2” material for a place to insert the spline … at that moment, it looked like the blade passed directly under your right index finger.. that is what it looked like …. I was concerned , because it looked like your right index was dangerously close to the table saw blade. Please review the video footage and I think you will see what I mean … I was concerned for you safety… I might have just been the camera angle.. I’’m your alright,,, kindest Regards, John Bies, US Army retired, Huntsville Alabama..
Thanks John, I’m really glad to know you enjoy the videos! I’m sorry the way I guided that cut on table saw was distressing to watch. I guess my familiarity with the saw made it look less safe than I felt. Given the groove was quite shallow, 1/8 - 3/32”, into the bottom surface of a 1/2” piece of plywood, I felt no risk to my fingers being on top of the plywood. I can understand how it might look dangerous but I can assure you I was not in danger during that cut. However, I should be more careful about how it can appear and cause concern for the viewer.
My primary safety concern with a hidden groove or dado cut, like this one, is with the push hand. It is critical to use a push stick as or be especially aware of the location of the blade as the workpiece clears so that the follow hand, and potentially “push fingers” are not in the path or the exiting sawblade.
Thank you again for watching and letting me know how much you enjoy the videos. I will certainly keep your concern in mind when making similar cuts in the future.
Tom
In the past i enjoyed watching your show until you butchered " tommy mac" that wasnt kind or warranted .
Have we had a had a conversation before? I’m not sure what you are referring to by accusing me like this, but nothing like that happened.
@@EpicWoodworking You are a very foolish person. Check your facts before you mouth off. I talked to a person at the Boston TV station that hosted the show you are referring to, and I was informed that other people, and not Tom, wanted to switch from Tommy Mac to another woodworking host.